Chapter 2

Revolution in Mexico--Gomez Farias and General Urrea--The Federalists--The President Imprisoned--Firing--Cannon--First News--Escape--Proclamation of the Government--Cannonading--Count C---a--Houses Deserted--Countess del V---e--Proclamation of the Federalists--Circular of the Federalists-- Scarcity of Provisions--Bursting of a Shell--Refugees--Dr. Plan--Young Lady Shot--Gomez Farias--Rumours--Address of Gomez Farias--Balls and Bullets--Visit from the ----- Minister--Arrival of Monsieur de ------- Expected Attack--Skirmish--Appearance of the Street--San Cosme--General-- The Count de B------ More Rumours--Suspense--Cannonading--Government Bulletin--Plan of the Rebels Defeated--Proclamation of the President--Of General Valencia--Maternal Affection--Fresh Reports--Families leaving the City--Letter from Santa Anna--Bustamante's Letter when imprisoned-- Propositions--Refusal--Taoubaya--Archbishop--Fresh Proposals--Refusal-- Second Letter from Santa Anna--Government Bulletin--Proclamations--An awkward Mistake--The Archbishop visits the President--Conclusion of the Revolution--Government Newspapers--Circulars

LETTER THE TWENTY-FIFTH

Plan of the Federalists--Letter from Farias--Signing of Articles-- Dispersion of the "Pronunciados"--Conditions--Orders of General Valencia-- Of the Governor--Address of General Valencia--Departure of our Guests--The _Cosmopolita_--State of the Palace and Streets--Bulletin of the Firing-- Interior of Houses--Escape of Families--Conduct of the Troops--Countess del V---e-- Santa Anna--Congress--Anecdote--Discussion in Congress--Leprosy

LETTER THE TWENTY-SIXTH

Visitors--Virgin de los Remedies--_Encarnación_--Fears of the Nuns--Santa Teresa--Rainy Season--Amusing Scene--"_Está a la disposición de V._"-- Mexican Sincerity--Texian Vessels--Fine Hair--Schoolmistress--Climate--Its Effects--Nerves--_Tours de Force_--Anniversary--Speech--Paseo--San Angel-- Tacubaya--Army of "The Three Guarantees"--Plan of Yguala--A Murder--Indian Politeness--Drunkenness--Señor Canedo--Revolutions in Mexico--The Penon-- The Baths--General ------- --Situation and View--Indian Family--Of the Boiling Springs--Capabilities--Solitude--Chapultepec--The _Desagravios_-- Penitence at San Francisco--Discipline of the Men--Discourse of the Monk-- Darkness and Horrors--Salmagundi

LETTER THE TWENTY-SEVENTH

Fête-day--Friendly Hint--Precautions--General Tranquillity--President in San Agustin--Revisit Museum--Ancient Manuscripts--Sculpture--Bronze Bust, etc.--Freshness after Rain--Ball at the French Minister's--Pamphlet-- Gutierrez Estrada--His Character--Concealment--_Mexicalsingo_--Minister of the Treasury--Archbishop's Permission--Paintings--Mexican Painters--Santa Teresa--Description of the Interior--The Penitences--Tortures-- Disciplines, etc.--Supper--Profane Ballads--Monasteries--San Francisco-- Padre Prior--Soldiers and Friars

LETTER THE TWENTY-EIGHTH

_día de Muertos_--Leave Mexico--_Herraderos_--San Cristobal--Tunas--Plaza de Toros--Throwing the _Laso_--Accidents--Rustic Breakfast--Country Fare-- Baked Meat--Indian Market--Buried Bull--Mountain--Solitary _Hacienda_-- _Reyes_--Mules marked--Return--Queen of Spain's Birthday--Diplomatic Dinner

LETTER THE TWENTY-NINTH

Virgin of _Cavadonga_--Santo Domingo--Decorations and Music-- Daguerreotype--Weekly Soirées--An Arrival--An Earthquake--Honourable Mr. ----- --Broken Furniture--_Dios_--Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe--Party to the _Desierto_--_Itzcuintepotzotli_--Inn of _Guajimalco_--Ruined Convent-- Its Origin--_Dejeune a la Fourchette_--Splendid Scenery--Vow to the Virgin--Musical Mass--Tacuba--Ride with the Prior

LETTER THE THIRTIETH

Christmas-day--Kalends and Mass--Amateur Performances--Solo--_Posadas_-- Wandering of the Holy Family--_Nacimiento_--Crowded Party--French Cooks-- Mexican Cook--State of Household--New Year's Day--Mass--Dirtiness of the Churches, etc.--Comparisons--Private Chapels--English Club--Preparations for Journey

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIRST

Leave Mexico--Cuernavaca--_Tierra Caliente_--_Atlacamulco_--Orange Groves --Sugar-cane--Annual Produce--Will of Cortes--Description--Coffee Plantation--Scorpions--List of Venomous Reptiles--_Aspansingo_--Doubts and Difficulties--A Decision

LETTER THE THIRTY-SECOND

Leave _Atlacamulco_--Assemble by Starlight--Balmy Atmosphere--Flowers and Trees of the Tropics--The Formidable _Barrancas_--Breakfast under the Trees--Force of the Sun--_Meacatlan_--Hospitality--Profitable Estate-- Leave Meacatlan--Beautiful Village--Musical Bells--Ride by Moonlight-- Sugar Fires--Cocoyotla--Old Gentleman--Supper--Orange-trees and Cocoas-- Delicious Water--Sugar Estates--_A Scorpion_--Set off for the Cave-- Morning Ride--Dangerous Path

LETTER THE THIRTY-THIRD

Cave of _Cacahuamilpa_--Superstition--Long-bearded Goat--Portal-- Vestibule--Fantastic Forms--Breakfast--Pine Torches--Noble Hall-- Stalactites and Stalagmites--Egyptian Pyramids--Double Gallery--Wonderful Formations--Corridor--Frozen Landscape--Amphitheatre--World in Chaos-- Skeleton--Wax Lights--Hall of Angels--Return--Distant Light--Indian Alcalde--_Cautlamilpas_--Rancho--Return to Cocoyotla--Chapel--Meacatlan-- Eclipse of the Moon--Benighted Travellers--Indian Village--_El Puente_-- Return to _Atlacamulco_

LETTER THE THIRTY-FOURTH

Ride by Starlight--Fear of Robbers--Tropical Wild Flowers--Stout Escort-- _Hautepec_--Hacienda of _Cocoyoc_--A Fire--Three Thousand Orange-trees-- Coffee Mills, etc.--Variety of Tropical Fruits--Prodigality of Nature-- _Casasano_--Celebrated Reservoir--Ride to Santa Clara--A Philosopher--A Scorpion--Leave Santa Clara--Dangerous _Barranca_--_Colon_--Agreeable House--Civil _Administrador_--San Nicolas--Solitude--Franciscan Friar-- Rainy Morning--Pink Turban--Arrival at _Atlisco_--Cypress--Department of Puebla--Volcanoes--Doña Marina--Verses--_Popocatepetl_--Cholula--Great Pyramid--Arrival at Puebla

LETTER THE THIRTY-FIFTH

Theatre--Portmanteaus--Visitors--Houses of Puebla--Fine Arts--Paseo--Don N. Ramos Arispe--Bishop--Cotton Factories--Don Esteban Antunano--Bank of _Avio_--United States Machinery--Accidents--Difficulties--Shipwrecks-- Detentions--Wonderful Perseverance--"_La Constancia Mejicana_" Hospital-- Prison--El Carmen--Paintings--Painted Floors--Angels--Cathedral--Gold and Jewels--A Comedy--Bishop's Palace--Want of Masters

LETTER THE THIRTY-SIXTH

Concert--Diligence--Leave Puebla--Escort--View from the Cathedral Towers-- Black Forest-History of the Crosses-Tales of Murder--An Alarm--Report of a Skirmish--Rio Frio--Law Concerning Robbers--Their _Moderation_-Return to Mexico--Carnival Ball--Improvement in Dress

LETTER THE THIRTY-SEVENTH

Distinguished Men--Generals Bustamante, Santa Anna, and Victoria-- Anecdote--Señor Pedraza--Señor Gutierrez Estrada--Count Cortina--Señor Gorostiza--Don Carlos Bustamante--"Mornings in the Alameda"--Don Andrés Quintana Roo--Don Lucas Alaman--General Moran--General Almonte--Señor Canedo--Señors Neri del Barrio and Casaflores--Doctor Valentin--Don Francisco Tagle--Eight Revolutions

LETTER THE THIRTY-EIGHTH

New Minister--San Angel--Profitable Pulque Estate--The Village-- Surrounding Scenery--The Indians--The Padre--The Climate--Holy Week in the Country--Dramatic Representations--Coyohuacan--The Pharisees--Image of the Saviour--Music and Dresses--Procession-Catholicism amongst the Indians-- Strange Tradition--Paul the Fifth--Contrast between a Mexican and a New England Village--Love of Fireworks--Ferdinand the Seventh--Military Ball-- _Drapeaux_

LETTER THE THIRTY-NINTH

Holy Thursday at Coyohuacan--Hernan Cortes--His Last Wishes--_Padres Camilas_-Old Church--Procession--Representation of the Taking of Christ-- Curate's Sermon under the Trees--A Religious Drama--Good Friday--Portable Pulpit--Heat--Booths--Religious Procession--Simon the Cyrenian--Costumes-- Curate's Sermon--Second Discourse--Sentence Pronounced by Pontius Pilate-- Descent from the Cross--Procession of the Angels--Funeral Hymn--The _Pesame_ to the Virgin--Sermon--"Sweet Kitty Clover"--Music in Mexico-- Anecdote

LETTER THE FORTIETH

Balloon--San Bartolo--Indian Women--A Beauty--Different Castes--Indians-- Their Character, etc.--Those of Noble Race--Ball at the French Minister's --_Abecilla_--Danger of Walking Unattended--Shooting Party--A Murder-- Robbery of a Farmhouse--Discomfited Robber Captain--The "_Zambos_"-- Letters and Visitors--Country Life in Mexico

LETTER THE FORTY-FIRST

Gambling--Fête at San Agustin--Breakfast at San Antonio--Report--Cock- fight--Ladies--Private Gambling--A _Vaca_--The _Calvario_--Bonnets-- Dinner--Evening Ball--Mingling of Classes--Copper Tables--Dresses and Decorations--Indian Bankers, Male and Female--Decorum--Habit--Holders of Banks--Female Gambler--Robbery--Anecdote--Bet--_Casa de Moneda_--Leave San Angel--Celebration--Address--Cross and Diploma--Reply--Presentation of a Sword--Discourses and Addresses--Reflections

LETTER THE FORTY-SECOND

Italian Opera--Artists, Male and Female--Prima Donna--Lucia di Lammermoor --Some Disappointment--Second Representation--Improvement--Romeo and Giulietta--La Ricci--La Señora Cesari--The Mint--False Coining--Repetition of Lucia--Procession by Night--A Spanish Beauty--Discriminating Audience-- A little _too simple_--Gold Embroidery--Santiago--Pilgrims--Old Indian Custom--Soiree--Mexico by Moonlight--Mysterious Figure--Archbishop-- Viceroy

LETTER THE FORTY-THIRD

Revillagigedo--The False Merchant and the Lady--The Viceroy, the Unjust Spaniard, the Indian, and the Golden Ounces--Horrible Murder--Details-- Oath--Country Family--The Spot of Blood--The Mother Unknowingly Denounces her Son--Arrest of the _Three_--Confession--Execution--The Viceroy fulfils his Pledge--Paving of the Streets--Severity to the Monks--Solitary Damsel--Box on the Ear--Pension--Morning Concert--New Minister-"Street of the Sad Indian"--Traditions--A Farewell Audience--Inscription on a Tomb

LETTER THE FORTY-FOURTH

Agitation--Storm--Revolution--Manifesto--Resembling a Game of Chess-- Position of the Pieces--Appearance of the City--Firing--State of Parties-- Comparisons--"_Comicios_"--The People--Congress--Santa Anna--Amnesty Offered--Roaring of Cannon--Proclamation--Time to _Look at Home_--The Will of the Nation--Different Feelings--Judge's House Destroyed--The Mint in Requisition--Preparations--Cannonading--"_Los Enanos_"

LETTER THE FORTY-FIFTH

Leave Mexico--Travelling Equipage--San Xavier--Fine Hacienda-- Millionaires--Well-educated Ladies--Garden, etc.--Tlanapantla--Indian Hut --Mrs. Ward--Doña Margarita--The _Pronunciamiento_--False Step--Santa Anna in Puebla--Neutrality--General Paredes--President in Tlanapantla--Tired Troops--Their March--Their Return--Curate's House--Murder--General Paredes in the Lecheria--President in Tlanapantla--A Meeting--Return of the President and his Troops--General Paredes and his Men--Santa Anna in Tacubaya--A Junction--President in Mexico--_Allied Sovereigns_--Plan-- Articles--President declares for Federalism--Resigns--Results-- Hostilities--Capitulation--Triumphal Entry--_Te Deum_--New Ministry

LETTER THE FORTY-SIXTH

Santa Monica--Solidity--Old Paintings--Anachronism--Babies and Nurses from the Cuna--Society--Funds-Plan--Indian Nurses--Carmelite Convent--Midnight Warning--Old Villages and Churches--Indian Bath--San Mateo--The Lecheria-- Fertility--_Molino Viego_--Dulness--Religious Exercises--Return to Mexico --Mexican Hotel--New Generals--Disturbances--General Bustamante-- Inconvenience--Abuses in the Name of Liberty--Verses--Independence celebrated

LETTER THE FORTY-SEVENTH

Opera--Santa Anna and his Suite--His Appearance--_Belisario_--Solitary "_Viva_!"--Brilliant House--Military Dictatorship--_San_ _Juan de Dios_-- Hospital _de Jesús_--_Cuna_--Old Woman and Baby--Different Apartments-- Acordada--Junta--Female Prisoners--Chief Crime--_Travaux Forces_-- Children--Male Prisoners--_Forçats_--Soldiers Gambling--Chapel-- Confessional--Insane Hospital--Frenchmen--Different Kinds of Insanity-- Kitchen--Dinner--Insane Monk--"Black Chamber"--Soldiers--College--Santa Anna's Leg--Projects--All Saints--Señora P---a--Leave-takings

LETTER THE FORTY-EIGHTH

Leave Mexico--Diligence--Indian Padre--Brandy-drinking Female--Bad Roads-- Beautiful View--Escort--Good Breakfast--Crosses--Robber's Head--Select Party--Lerma--Valley of Toluca--Hacienda--Toluca--Count de B---- and Mr. W------The Commandant--Gay Supper--Colonel Y------Day at Toluca--Journey to _La Gabia_--Heat and Hunger--Pleasant Quarters--Princely Estate--El Pilar--A Zorillo--A Wolf--Long Journey--Tortillas--Count de B------State of Michoacán--Forest Scenery--_Trojes of Angangueo_--Comfort

LETTER THE FORTY-NINTH

Leave _Trojes_--Beautiful Territory--Tarrascan Indians--Taximaroa-- Distressed Condition--An Improvement--Cold Morning--Querendaro--Fine Breed of Horses--San Bartolo--Produce--Country Proprietors--_Colear_--Ride to Morelia--Wild Ducks--Sunset--Cathedral Bell--Cuincho--Curates Morelos, Matamoros, and Hidalgo--Warm Baths--Handsome Girls--Starving Travellers-- Lost Mules--Lancers--Night on a Heap of Straw--Mules Found--Tzintzontzan-- King Calsonsi--Pascuaro--Kind Reception--Bishop--Robbers--Curu--Night in a Barn--Mountain--Uruapa--Enchanting Scenery--Pleasant Family--Jorulla

LETTER THE FIFTIETH

Indian Dresses--Saints--Music--Union of Tropical and European Vegetation-- Old Customs--Falls of the Sararaqui--Silkworms--Indian Painting--Beautiful Heroine--Leave Uruapa--Tziracuaratiro--Talkative Indian--Alcalde's House-- Pascuaro--Old Church--Mosaic Work--The Lake--The Cave--Fried Fish--Rich Indians--Convent--Cuincho--Darkness--Morelia--Alameda--Cathedral--Silver --Waxworks--College--Wonderful Fleas

LETTER THE FIFTY-FIRST

San Bartolo--Mass--Markets--Rancheros--San Andrés--Insanity--Rancho--House of Don Carlos Heimburger--Wild Scenery--German Songs--Las Millas--Leave taking--Storm--Rainbow--El Pilar--La Gabia--Toluca--News--Copper _Pronunciamiento_--Return to Mexico--General Moran--Funeral Obsequies--New Theatre--_Cock's Mass_--Santa Clara--Santa Fe Prisoners--New Year

LETTER THE FIFTY-SECOND

Last Day in Mexico--Theatre--Santa Anna--French Minister's--Parting-- Diligence--Last Look of Mexico--Fatigue--Robbers--Escort--Second Impressions--Baths at Jalapa--Vera Cruz--Some Account of San Juan de Ulua --Siege of 1825--Siege of 1838--General Bustamante--Theatre--Of the North Winds

LETTER THE FIFTY-THIRD

Sail in the Tyrian--Norther off Tampico--The Bar--The River Panuco--The Pilot--The Shore--Alligator--"_Paso de Doña Cecilia_"--Tampico--Spanish Consul's House--Society--Navigation--Banks of the Panuco--Extraordinary Inoculation--The "_Glorieta_"--Leave Tampico--Furious Norther--Voyage-- Arrival at Havana

LETTER THE FIFTY-FOURTH

Havana--The Carnival--The Elssler--La Angosta--_Ingenio_ of Count V---a-- General Bustamante--Lord Morpeth--Leave Havana--Voyage in the Medway--Old Friends--Return to the United States

PREFACE

The present work is the result of observations made during a two years' residence in Mexico, by a lady, whose position there made her intimately acquainted with its society, and opened to her the best sources of information in regard to whatever could interest an enlightened foreigner. It consists of letters written to the members of her own family, and, _really_, not intended originally--however incredible the assertion--for publication. Feeling a regret that such rich stores of instruction and amusement, from which I have so much profited, myself, should be reserved for the eyes of a few friends only, I strongly recommended that they should be given to the world. This is now done, with a few such alterations and omissions as were necessary in a private correspondence; and although the work would derive more credit from the author's own name, than from anything which I can say, yet as she declines prefixing it, I feel much pleasure in making this statement by way of introduction to the public.

WILLIAM H. PRESCOTT.

Boston, December 20, 1842.

GLOSSARY

OF

SPANISH OR MEXICAN WORDS WHICH OCCUR IN THE COURSE OF THE WORK, WHICH ARE GENERALLY EXPLAINED WHEN FIRST USED, BUT WHICH BEING REPEATED, THE READER MIGHT FORGET AND WISH TO REFER TO.

_Administrador_-Agent. _Alameda_-Public walk with trees. _Aquador_-Water-carrier. _Alacran_-Scorpion. _Anquera_-Coating of stamped gilt leather, edged with little bells, which covers the back of the horses. _Arriero_-Muleteer. _Arroba_-Spanish weight of twenty-five pounds. _Azotea_-The flat roof of a house. _Barranca_-Ravine. _Botica_-Apothecary's shop. _Calle_-Street. _Cargadores_-Men who carry loads. _Chinguirito_-Spirit made from sugar-cane. _Chile_-Hot peppers. _Compadre and Comadre_-Godfather and Godmother; names by which two persons address each other, who have held the same child at the baptismal font, or have been sponsors together at a marriage, etc. _Canonigo_-Canon or prebendary. _Comicos_-Actors. _Camarista_-Lady of honour. _día de Anos_-Birthday. _Dulces_-Sweetmeats. _Díario_-Daily newspapers. _Frisones_-Large horses from the north. _Función_-Solemnity-festival. _Frijoles_-Brown beans. _Galopina_-Kitchen-girl. _Garbanzos_-Chick-peas _Cicer Arietinum_. _Gachupin_-Name given to the Spaniards in Mejico. _Garita_-City-gate. _Goleta_-Schooner. _Gentuza_-Rabble. _Honras_-Funeral honours. _Hacienda_-Country-place. _Ingenio de Azucar_-Sugar plantation. _Invalidos--Disabled soldiers. _Jarro_--Earthen jar. _Ladrones_--Robbers. _Léperos_--Beggars, low persons. _Litera_--Litter. _Monte Pio_--Office where money is lent on security. _Mezcal_--Brandy distilled from pulque. _Manga_--Cloak made of cloth, with a hole in the middle for putting the head through. _Novios_--Betrothed persons. _Nuestro Amo_--Our Master, used in speaking of the Host. _Ojo de Agua_--Spring of water. _Portales_--Covered portico supported by columns. _Pulqueria_--Shop where pulque is sold. _Paseo_--Public walk. _Paso_--Pace, pacing. _Padrino_--Godfather. _Plaza_--Square. _Patio_--Courtyard. _Petate_--Matting. _Poblana_--Woman of Puebla. _Pronunciamiento_--A revolution in Mexico. _Pronunciados_--Those who revolt. _Rancho_--A farm. _Ranchero_--Farmer. _Rebozo_--A scarf that goes over the head. _Reja_--Iron grate. _Sopilote_--Species of carrion vulture. _Sarape_--A woollen blanket more or less fine, with a hole for the head to go through. _Traspaso_--Conveyance, transfer. _Tilma_--Indian cloak. _Tierra caliente_--The hot land. _Tertulia_--An evening party. _Toreador_--Bull-fighter. _Tortilla_--Species of thin cake. _Tortillera_--Woman who bakes tortillas. _Vaca_--Joint stock in gambling. _Vomito_--Name given to the yellow fever. _Venta_--Inn.

LIFE IN MEXICO

LETTER THE FIRST

Departure of the Norma--Last look of New York Bay--Fellow-passengers --Contrary Winds--Deceitful Appearances--Sunset in Southern Latitudes --Seas passed over by Columbus--Varied Occupations on Shipboard--Berry Islands--Bahama Banks--Evening in a Tropical Sea--L. E. L.--Pan of Matanzas--Morro Castle--Bay of Havana--Arrival--Handsome House in Havana--Sights and Sounds.

PACKET SHIP "NORMA,"

Oct. 27th, 1839.

This morning, at ten o'clock, we stepped on board the steamboat Hercules, destined to convey us to our packet with its musical name. The day was foggy and gloomy, as if refusing to be comforted, even by an occasional smile from the sun. All prognosticated that the Norma would not sail to-day, but "where there's a will," etc. Several of our friends accompanied us to the wharf; the Russian Minister, the Minister of Buenos Ayres, Mr. -----, who tried hard to look sentimental, and even brought tears into his eyes by some curious process; Judge -----, Mr. -----, and others, from whom we were truly sorry to part.

The Norma was anchored in one of the most beautiful points of the bay, and the steamboat towed us five miles, until we had passed the Narrows. The wind was contrary, but the day began to clear up, and the sun to scatter the watery clouds.

Still there is nothing so sad as a retreating view. It is as if time were visibly in motion; and as here we had to part from -----, we could only distinguish, as through a misty veil, the beauties of the bay; the shores covered to the water's edge with trees rich in their autumnal colouring; the white houses on Staten Island--the whole gradually growing fainter, till, like a dream, they faded away.

The pilot has left us, breaking our last link with the land. We still see the mountains of Neversink, and the lighthouse of Sandy Hook. The sun is setting, and in a few minutes we must take our leave, probably for years, of places long familiar to us.

Our fellow-passengers do not appear very remarkable. There is Madame A----, returning from being prima donna in Mexico, in a packet called after the opera in which she was there a favourite, with her husband Señor V---- and her child. There is M. B---- with moustaches like a bird's nest; a pretty widow in deep affliction, at least in deep mourning; a maiden lady going out as a governess, and every variety of Spaniard and Havanero. So now we are alone, C---n and I, and my French femme-de-chambre, with her air of Dowager Duchess, and moreover sea-sick.

28th.--When I said I liked a sea life, I did not mean to be understood as liking a merchant ship, with an airless cabin, and with every variety of disagreeable odour. As a French woman on board, with the air of an afflicted porpoise, and with more truth than elegance, expresses it: "Tout devient puant, même l'eau-de-cologne."

The wind is still contrary, and the Norma, beating up and down, makes but little way. We have gone seventy-four miles, and of these advanced but forty. Every one being sick to-day, the deck is nearly deserted. The most interesting object I have discovered on board is a pretty little deaf and dumb girl, very lively and with an intelligent face, who has been teaching me to speak on my fingers. The infant heir of the house of ----- has shown his good taste by passing the day in squalling. M. B----, pale, dirty, and much resembling a brigand out of employ, has traversed the deck with uneasy footsteps and a cigar appearing from out his moustaches, like a light in a tangled forest, or a jack-o'-lantern in a marshy thicket. A fat Spaniard has been discoursing upon the glories of olla podrida. _Au reste_, we are slowly pursuing our way, and at this rate might reach Cuba in three months.

And the stars are shining, quiet and silvery. All without is soft and beautiful, and no doubt the Norma herself looks all in unison with the scene, balancing herself like a lazy swan, white and graciously. So it is without, and within, there is miserable sea-sickness, bilge-water, and all the unavoidable disagreeables of a small packet.

31st.--Three days have passed without anything worthy of notice having occurred, except that we already feel the difference of temperature. The passengers are still enduring sea-sickness in all its phases.

This morning opened with an angry dispute between two of the gentlemen, on the subject of Cuban lotteries, and they ended by applying to each other epithets which, however much they might be deserved, were certainly rather strong; but by dinner time, they were amicably engaged in concocting together an enormous tureen of _gaspachos_, a sort of salad, composed of bread, oil, vinegar, sliced onion and garlic--and the fattest one declares that in warm weather, a dish of _gaspachos_, with plenty of garlic in it, makes him feel as fresh as a rose. He must indeed be a perfect bouquet.