CHAPTER VII.

LIFE IN ADANA.

Always try to be a Debtor in the Levant, never a Creditor—My Friend’s Sickness—Danger of neglecting the Endemic Diseases of these Lands—Great amount of Malaria in the Plain—Epidemic of Typhus in 1873-4—Of Small-pox in 1874—Religious Sects in Adana—Sleeping Cribs in Summer—Midnight Call to Prayer—Market Day in Adana—Labourers—Wages—Scarcity of the Precious Metals—Great Mortality amongst the Labourers—Their Peaceable Behaviour—A Model to Nations of higher pretensions to Civilization—Executions in Adana—A Scene of Horror at an Execution—Prisons in Adana—Increasing Sickness of my Friend—The End—River-side Café—Beauty of Adana—Noble Mountain Scenery—Ajemi Kahve—True Politeness of the Company—Exquisite Atmospheric Effects—Free Trade not the Rule here—Supply and Price of Food—No Adulteration in Turkey—Mechanics’ Wages—Produce and Trade of Cilicia—Scarcity in 1873—Barley—Transport—Cotton of Cilicia—Wool—Sesame Seed—Imports—Rate of Interest—Fellahhin Borrow—but Repayment uncertain—The Dîme—Protestant Armenian Chapel—Real Religious Liberty in Turkey—Education in Adana—Christian Sects fast advancing in Education—Backwardness of Turks in this respect—The Sheikh of the Sourijis—The Defterdar of the Province—Scene in his Bureau—Prefect of Police of Adana—A Conversation on Politics—The Russians—Yakoob Beg—Environs of Adana unsafe even now—Support from the Authorities necessary for the Traveller in Asia Minor 165-197