CHAPTER IV.

THE PYRAMUS. GIAOUR DAGH AND MARASH.

Swiftness and Depth of Pyramus—Toprak Kalesi—A Snake in the Grass—Osmanieh Recruits—Politeness and Grave Courtesy of the Osmanlis—Disturbed State of the Borderland—Robber Chiefs—Government obliged to suppress them—Stubborn resistance—Occasional Outbreaks occur even now—Mountaineers forced to settle in Plain—Osmanieh—A Keurdt like a Sculptured Figure from Nineveh—A Rayah Host—Yalpouzi River—Devrishli Bel, the only Pass through the Giaour Dagh—Labourers to reap the Harvest in the Plain—Keupèk Kalesi—Impracticable Group of Mountains—An Armenian Protestant Village—The Billali Pass—Poverty of the People, yet not without Compensating Advantages—We lose the Way—An Armenian Country Gentleman’s House—A Warm Welcome to Starved Guests—Grace before and Music during Meat—Toros Chakrian’s House—Our Host’s Children—Our Host attacked by Brigands a few Weeks before—Giaour Dagh Minor and Lake—Ak Sou and Bridge—Khan at Marash—An Inspection of Weights and Measures—American Presbyterian Mission—Population of Marash—Religious Sects—Success of Protestant Mission—Military Service Tax—Climate and Health of Marash—Cheapness of Provisions—Trade and Manufactures—Fortress—Images of Lion and Panther—Visit to the Churches of the Protestant Mission—Routes from Osmanieh to Marash—Pass once closed by an Ancient Wall—Islahiyeh—Roads from Interior to Alexandretta could be easily constructed 76-103