CHAPTER II.

MERSINA. POMPEIOPOLIS. ASAAB-EL-KEF. TCHANDEER.

Heat and Unhealthiness of Mersina—Summer Resorts of the People—Geuzna—Ichma—Causes of the Misery of the Turkish Population—The Government does nothing, and will allow nothing to be done—Corruption of Provincial Governors—Ingratitude of Turks—Good Qualities, especially of the Lower Classes—A Comment on the Charge of Ingratitude brought against the Turks—Pompeiopolis—City Wall—Port now a Corn-field—Moles—Dimensions of Port—Colonnade—Inscriptions—Theatre—Utter Destruction of Town—Colonnade hitherto spared—Greek Schools—Hospital—Church—Funereal Monument—Purchase of Horses—Only one Road in Cilicia—Its History—Khalil, Taki Ed-Deen, and Mahmoud Pashas—Soil of Plain like that of the Delta of Egypt—Geuzlük Kalaat a Necropolis—Way in which a Finder of Antiquities is rewarded here—Filthiness of Tarsus—Its Unhealthiness—The Christians advancing—Bazaars—Excellent Iron and Leather Work—Gardens round Tarsus—Nightingales—Armenian Church—Antique Treasure—Lower Level of Old City—Gates of Town—Walls—Tomb of Sardanapalus—Form and Dimensions—Falls of the Cydnus—Water of the Cydnus Unwholesome—Changes in Course of Stream—S. Paul’s Well—Excursion to Asaab-el-Kef—Sheikh of the Mosque and his Family—Imperial Benefactress—An Ancient Armenian Fortress—Church and Hermitage—Oppression endured by all Classes, Muslim and Rayah alike—Rock of Tchandeer—Translation of Armenian Inscriptions 16-47