CHAPTER XVII.

GEUZNA. FEVER EPIDEMIC IN MERSINA.

Juniper Forest—Fine Forests of Southern Karamania—Complete Change of Climate and Vegetation on descending from the Highlands—Great Rainfall on the First Ranges of the Taurus—Geuzna, the “Yaila” of Mersina—Nahli’s way of Communicating Bad News—Cholera and Quarantine—Climate of Geuzna—An English Speculator—A Café Full of Fever Patients—Deadly Nature of the Fever of Cilicia—Boloukli—Powerful Sun and Suffocating Heat of Plain—Great Sickness in Mersina—The Khan—Nahli enters Government Service—Bad News from Syria—Our Friend Mustafa Tekerlèk in Trouble—Had been formerly somewhat of a Brigand—Two of a Trade seldom agree—Our Souriji a Retired Brigand—Risk to European Travellers—Less near the Coast—But People of the Country not Dishonest—Brigandage in Asia Minor—Heat and Malaria—Travelling in Asia Minor Dangerous in Hot Season—Sickness in the Town on the Increase—The Naturalist from Kulek Boghaz—Strength and Health failing—Natives Suffer Equally—A Crisis—Choice between Fever and Starvation—Damp Heat—Sea Breeze—Land Breeze—Cholera Expected at Adana—Nahli’s Experience as a Tax-gatherer—He is too Honest for Turkey—Ferocity of the Wolves—My former Interpreter Hanna—I unwittingly escaped a Serious Danger—Great Interest of Travel in Asia Minor—But it is Dangerous—A Telegram from Mersina viâ Diàrbekìr and Constantinople to England—Attack of Ague—Boatmen and Labourers of Mersina nearly all Arabs—Last View of Cilicia—The Ex-Pasha of Bagdad—Arab Horses—Their Peculiarities—Forest on Fire—Tedious Voyage—Heat—Quarantine—Home 448-475

Condition of the Muslim Peasantry in Asiatic Turkey 477-484

The Armenian Kings of Cilicia 485-491

Historical Summary 492-526

Itinerary 527

Glossary 529

Index 531

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Yourouk Encampment _Frontispiece_

Sketch Map _To face Contents_

Route Map ” _page_ 1

Tarsus in August ” ” 30

Demir Kapou (Iron Gate), Tarsus ” ” 37

Adana ” ” 60

Plan of Messis ” ” 66

Messis and the Pyramus ” ” 68

Marash ” ” 102

Town and Fortress of Sis ” ” 152

The Ajemi Café at Adana ” ” 182

The Pylæ Ciliciæ ” ” 212

Site of Derbe ” ” 278

Karaman ” ” 300

The Rock of Mauga ” ” 328

Plan of the Ruined City of Isaura ” ” 412

And Twenty-four Woodcuts in the Text.

LIFE IN ASIATIC TURKEY.