CHAPTER XV.

MOUNTAINS OF ISAURIA. RUINS OF ISAURA.

Birds—Nahli’s Grievance—The Mufti’s Kindness—An Excellent Zaptieh—Course of the Alata River—Site of an Ancient Ruined Town—Mosque of Bolat—Ibex Horns—High Plateau—Extensive Vine Cultivation—Endurance of our Zaptieh—Ashikler—Dreadful Ascent to it—Wild Appearance of the Isaurian Country—Temple Tombs—Gateway of Isaura—Fortifications—Bas-reliefs—Arch of Triumph—Inscriptions—Agora—The Great Look-out Tower—Ideas about Buried Treasure—Vast Ranges of Mountains seen from Isaura—Lake of Seidi Shehir—The Porch of the Mosque at Aijilar—Origin of the Name—Routes in the Mountains of Isauria—Elmasun—Inhospitable Villagers—Obliged to Billet Ourselves—Intense Heat and Lonesomeness of the Great Plain—Bussola—Kassaba—A Funeral—Resignation of the Muslim not from Apathy—Anecdote in Point—Behaviour of the Muslim under Affliction—Ilisera—Return to Karaman 399-430