CHAPTER IV

A DURBAR IN BUXA

Notice of the Political Officer's approaching visit--A Durbar--The Bhutan Agent and the interpreter--Arrival of the Deb Zimpun--An official call--Exchange of presents--Bhutanese fruit--A return call--Native liquor--A welcome gift--The Bhutanese musicians--Entertaining the Envoy--A thirsty Lama--A rifle match--An awkward official request--My refusal--The Deb Zimpun removes to Chunabatti--Arrival of the treasure--The Political Officer comes--His retinue--The Durbar--The Guard of Honour--The visitors--The Envoy comes in state--Bhutanese courtesies--The spectators--The payment of the subsidy--Lunch in Mess--Entertaining a difficult guest--The official dinner--An archery match--Sikh quoits--Field firing--Bhutanese impressed--Blackmail--British subjects captured--Their release--Tashi's case--Justice in Bhutan--Tyranny of officials--Tashi refuses to quit Buxa--The next payment of the subsidy--The treaty--Misguided humanitarians 64