CHAPTER XXV.

Chinese Fishermen.—Pedro Blanca.—Preparing for Port.—Chinese Pilots.—Beating up the Passage.—Hong Kong.—“Hail Columbia.”—The “Susquehanna.”—Stars and Stripes.—Chinese Merchants.—Washerwomen.— Bumboats.—Dick Simpson and John Chinaman.—Chinese mode of Trading.—Sanpan.—A floating Community.—Boston Jack.—Victoria, its Situation, Streets, etc.—Chinese Barbers.—Fortune-tellers.— Policemen.—Chinese New-year.—A busy Time.—Firing a Salute.—Arrival of Governor BONHAM.—English Barracks.—Churches.—Hotels.—Dog or Horse?—Visit from Men-of-war’s-men.—Tom and the Lieutenant.— Commodore Perry.—Midshipmen.—Visit to the Barracks.—Theatre.— Fort.—Make some Purchases.—Counterfeit Money.—Tricks of the Chinese Merchants.—Females.—Gambling.—Cut-throats.—Short-tailed Gentlemen.—Chinese Funeral.—Marriages.—Education.—Ouang Ouci Yuen.—Infanticide.—Twenty-second of February.—Chinese Artists.— Their Powers of Imitation.—Sam Shu.—Domestic Life of the Chinese.— Food.—Temple, or Joss House.—Worship of Idols.—Joss Sticks.—Tom as a Yankee Naval Officer.—Chinese Men-of-war.—Pirates.—Chinese Theatre.—Masonic Temple.—The Bethel.—Chinaman and his Shoes.—The Arrest, Trial, and Acquittal.—Departure for Sea.

Wednesday, February 9th, brought us in close proximity to the land of the Celestials, as the numerous fishing-junks bore testimony. The same day we sighted Pedro Blanca, which is an island lying near Hong Kong. At 10 A.M. commenced bending the cables, and making other preparations for coming to an anchor. As we neared the land we saw great numbers of pilot-boats steering for us, one of which soon reached us; the pilot came on board, with his long tail, or queu, hanging behind him, and presenting a comical contrast to an old Yankee “Hard-a-lee.” He wanted the moderate sum of forty dollars for taking us into port. Captain Ewer was not so easily gulled as that, and soon gave the old fellow to understand that if he wished to pilot us in for twenty dollars he could do so, and if not he could leave immediately. This brought him to his senses, and he very quickly accepted the offer, as numerous other pilot-boats were in sight, and he knew that he would be underbid if they had an opportunity to do so.

The next day found us beating up through the lee passage. At 1 P.M. the wind died away, and the tide commencing to set out, we dropped anchor. At 7 P.M. we weighed anchor, and with a fine breeze beat up to the anchorage. At 8 P.M. we “brought up” in the harbor of Victoria, Hong Kong.

We were aroused from our slumbers the following morning by the familiar strains of “Hail Columbia,” and our first thought was that we were again at home. But this pleasant illusion was soon dispelled; for, going on deck, we found that the music proceeded from the steam frigate Susquehanna, which was lying close to. What joyous feelings did we experience while listening to that soul-stirring air, and beholding our national flag, the glorious “stars and stripes,” floating proudly from the mizzen-peak of such a grand and stately vessel! We could but feel a great national pride to see our beloved country so nobly represented in a foreign clime. On looking about us, we saw the United States sloops of war Plymouth, Portsmouth, and Saratoga; also the Supply store-ship, together forming quite a fleet. Nothing is so cheering to the rover, while in foreign lands, as to see familiar faces, persons speaking the same tongue and claiming the same land of birth, “the land of the free and the home of the brave.” A feeling of patriotism naturally animated us as we beheld our country’s floating batteries, “the right arm of our defense,” and for a moment we forgot that there was any country but “happy, free America!” The harbor was well filled by merchantmen from nearly all nations; also we observed several English naval vessels in port, as this is one of their rendezvous. Among the shipping the “stars and stripes” were conspicuous, and we could but notice that they floated from more than half the vessels in port.

Before 9 A.M. the deck of our vessel was crowded with Chinamen of all descriptions. In one corner might be seen the tailor spreading out his fancy clothing; then the shoemaker with his shoes, taking the measures of such of the crew as might want. In another part of the ship might be seen a complete variety store, with all descriptions of lacquered ware, artificial flowers, silk handkerchiefs, etc., all selling for a mere song. Washerwomen running about, engaging the washing while the ship remains in port; bumboats alongside with fruit and confectionery; carpenters, riggers, sail-makers, blacksmiths, etc., each with recommends, looking after and soliciting employment.

The decks now presented a comical spectacle. The bald head of the Chinaman stood out prominent; the honorable tail, neatly dressed, the end tipped with ribbon, was conspicuous in all. Each was dressed according to his calling; the merchant in the finest silks, and the common laborer in the coarsest garments. Our Kanakas had their own sport with them, never having seen a Chinaman before, and regarded them as objects of the greatest curiosity. This was especially the case with Dick Simpson, our King Mills’ native. Not being satisfied with viewing them at a distance, he walked up to one, took hold of the long, braided tail of hair, and cried out, laughing heartily, “Look here! what for all the same? hey? All same big fool. By golly! I no been see all same that, my land!” He then laughed till he could laugh no more, seemingly splitting his sides. The poor Chinaman looked at him in perfect amazement, and, not appearing to relish the joke, jabbered away in his own language. This appeared to astonish Dick still more, and he again broke forth: “What this fellow talking about? see that! By golly! say, long-tail, what you talk about? You no saba noting; more better you go ashore; bimeby me eat you—look out!” Dick had to stop again to laugh heartily, the Chinaman stared so earnestly at him.

By this time the trading had commenced quite briskly, and we overheard the following bargain between one of our boys and a Chinaman. The article was a pair of silk pants, for which the merchant wanted the sum of one dollar and fifty cents:

“No you don’t,” says Jack; “I’ll give you three quarters of a dollar.”

“No can do; no proper,” said the Celestial.

“Well, that’s all I’ll give you; you mustn’t come aboard here to come any of your gouge games; if you do, overboard you go.”

“Three quarters no can catch. S’pose one dollar one quarter, very good, proper.”

“Not a bit of it; three quarters, no more.”

“You no see; pant very good; No. 1; three quarters no can catch plofit; s’pose you like one dollar, very good.”

“Three quarters is all I’ll give you; what do you say, old Chinaman? bear a hand.”

“No; no can do; must catch one dollar.”

“Shiver my timbers! old buggerlugs, if you don’t come to terms pretty soon, I’ll treat you to a salt-water bath; three quarters, or away you go.”

“Well, s’pose must catch three quarters; no good, no proper;” and then, turning to another of the men, said, “S’pose you like catch one three quarters, very good, proper.”

This is a peculiar characteristic of the Chinese merchants. They charge about twice as much as they expect to get for an article; and the only way to trade with them is to make them an offer, and not vary one cent from it; they will not let a person go without purchasing.

The mate now came along, and started them all for the shore. They were very loth to go, but after a while we rid the ship of them. As a general thing, they are expert thieves, and will carry off any thing they can lay hold of if not very closely watched.

The captain hired a boat (which is the usual custom), called a “sanpan,” to attend on the ship. These boats are _manned_ by a whole family, as a general thing, it constituting house and home with them. They are generally about thirty feet in length and six in width, with two mat sails. They have a sort of cabin for the accommodation of passengers, which is amidships, or in the centre of the boat. This cabin also serves as parlor, kitchen, sleeping-room, and dressing-room for its occupants. The Chinaman who owned the “sanpan” hired by our captain had a family consisting of himself, wife, wife’s sister, and brother. He had also three fine-looking, bright children, who appeared perfectly contented on board their floating-home.

It is a singular fact that the lowest class of Chinese are not allowed to live on land, but spend most of their lives upon the water. When they possess a certain sum of money they are allowed a residence upon the land, and not until then; but this sum is so large that very few of them ever accumulate it. They are born, live, and die upon the water, never going on shore except to purchase the necessaries of life. One may see floating markets, shoe-shops, tailor-shops, and, in fact, all kinds of mechanical business. We noticed some boats, not exceeding ten feet in length, containing a family of five or six, with all their “household gods,” etc., on board.

But to return to our own “sanpan.” The captain appeared active and intelligent, the females rather good-looking and sociable, the crew (consisting of one man) lazy and indolent. These first class sanpans are hired by ships while lying at anchor for the purpose of conveying the ship’s company to and from the shore, doing the ship’s errands, bringing off provisions, etc., a kind of “man-of-all-work,” for which services they receive from ten to fifteen dollars per month. From this amount, say fifteen dollars, a Chinaman will save ten, which makes it quite a profitable job. It is an excellent plan also for the ship concerned, as it obviates the necessity of lowering her own boats while in port. They sail like the wind, and are quicker in motion than any other boat we ever saw upon the water. One can not look about the harbor but he will see them on every hand, gliding about with the swiftness of an arrow, yet collisions seldom if ever occur. It is surprising to see the ease with which they manage them—two coming from opposite directions with great swiftness, apparently steering for each other’s bows, yet, at the moment when a collision appears inevitable, down goes the helm of one, and they shoot past each other free from harm.

The morning following our arrival a boat came alongside loaded with fresh meat, vegetables, etc. The proprietor of the “market” soon made his appearance, and introduced himself to the captain as “Boston Jack,” a comprador (one who furnishes ships with fresh provisions). He informed Captain E. that he was comprador to the American ships in port, and wished to engage himself as “comprador to the Emily Morgan.” A bargain was soon struck, and he was duly installed in the office. In appearance Boston Jack is about forty years of age, medium height, very quick and active, with a sharp, keen eye, and very polite. The bows he bestowed upon all who honored themselves by speaking to him would have become the most complete and polished French gentleman.

Dr. BALL, in his “_Rambles in Eastern Asia_,” thus speaks of him: “About a mile above Whampoa we called at ‘Boston Jack’s’. This is a Chinaman, an acquaintance that my companions had made in passing before. ‘Boston Jack’ is familiarly known to the European population of Hong Kong as a kind of interpreter and furnisher of provisions for vessels, and a commissioner to provide servants, coolies, and to make purchases of various Chinese articles. He was formerly a pilot, and is still connected with that business, furnishing pilots, etc., and is ready to do any kind of business between the foreigners and Chinese. He is said to be worth a hundred thousand dollars; treated us to beer, and gave us some to take on our way. He had much to say of his son, who lives in New York, and was very polite, inviting us to call again,” etc.

Hong Kong is an island, and not, as is the general impression, a Chinese city. It is a British colony, within a few miles of the Chinese coast. It was Chinese until the treaty after the celebrated opium war ceded it to the English. At that time it was inhabited only by a few fishermen and pirates. It is an elevation of barren mountains, with scarcely any vegetation, and is about twenty-five miles in circumference, and eight in diameter. Its shores are generally bold, and the water deep near the coast. There are, however, several spots with declivities sufficiently gradual for the location of cities. The English government has taken possession of these, and erected fortifications and barracks, where they keep small garrisons of troops. Victoria is the name of the city, yet it is hardly known by any name but Hong Kong.

Victoria is on the north side of the island, built on the base and on the inclination of a conspicuous mountain which overlooks the harbor. It extends about two and a half miles along the edge of the water, and back on the side of the mountain half a mile. It has only one principal street, called Queen’s Road, which is near the water, and encircles the island. There are several others parallel with it, and from twenty to forty feet one above the other. The small cross streets uniting them are steep, and at some places have flights of steps by which to ascend and descend. Taking the zigzag streets in their proper order, the highest houses may be reached with a carriage. The houses are generally of two or three stories, though many at the outer part of the city, called bungaloes, are of one story, and look like cottages. Open to the country on the west of the city you will see the steep side of the mountains, with only here and there a poverty-stricken Chinaman’s cabin. The ground is covered with rocks, a little grass, and, higher up, with brush. The white buildings conspicuous here and there are the police stations. Following the road to the east, you enter the part of the city known as Typen-shang, where the lower order of the Chinese reside.

Following the road as it winds round and ascends upon higher ground, we come to the European part—the central portion of Victoria. On the left is a row of Chinamen’s shops, beyond which, along the edge of the harbor, are occasionally the large houses of Europeans. On the right are blocks of European buildings, rising one above another, and as we passed them we could but imagine ourselves once more in a civilized land. Behind these, a little distance up the inclined plane, the mountain rises abruptly, and to the eye nearly perpendicular, and terminating in a peak near three thousand feet high. A scanty vegetation of grass and brambles there appears, but there is little else than rocks, some of which seem to hang by nothing, and may eventually, becoming loosened, roll down and cut their way through the settlements to the water.

Passing along, we come to the principal business part of the city. On the right is a hotel, with blocks of houses occupied mostly by English and Americans, auctioneers, apothecaries, the club-house of the merchants, etc., and back, short streets of Chinese mechanics. Continuing along the water toward the east, after a short interval we see the military quarters, which inclose within a quarter of a mile the showy stone barracks, parade-ground, officers’ residences, in elevated positions, the church, and other buildings. Half a mile farther is another fine block of buildings; then comes the hospital, ship-yard, and a large ship-chandlery establishment. Thus the town or city of Victoria is strung out for two or three miles along the shore.

The population, including Chinese, is about twenty-five thousand. But a small portion are European. Almost every nation is represented here, though there are only a few of each. Besides the English, American, and Chinese, we find the French, Spanish, Portuguese, Persians, Bengalese, Javanese, Manillamen, German, Italian, Russian, Danish, Swiss, Dutch, Belgian, Pole, Arab, Turk, Armenian, Tartar, Siamese, African, and South American.

The streets are filled with Chinese, and you continually see the traveling barber, carrying his barber-shop with him—cobblers, tinkers, pastrymen, men carrying hogs, rabbits, ducks, rats, puppies, etc, already cooked; and along the principal streets you find the brokers, or money-changers, with piles of cash. These cash are a small coin, about one half the size of a cent, of a base metal, and a square hole in the centre, twenty-four of which are equal in value to one of the cents of United States coin. The fortune-teller or conjurer may also be seen, with his charts, covered with hieroglyphics, spread before him, and busily engaged in penetrating the future for some inquisitive Chinaman.

The police force here is composed mostly of English, Americans, and Lascars. They are very effective in preserving order among the Chinese, and a Chinaman stands more in awe of a policeman than any thing else in Hong Kong.

From the ship the town looks beautiful at night. It was New-year’s week with the Chinese at this time, and their part of the town was brilliantly illuminated every evening. The thousand brilliant lamps, with an occasional rocket piercing its way into the clouds above, presented to the beholder a scene of beauty scarcely equaled, reminding him of old legends of enchanted cities. The evening gun of the frigate booms forth, answered from the fort; the bugle call from the barracks sounds sweetly on the calm evening air, and as its soft, gentle tones strike our ear, we almost forget that we are in the land of strangers, and remain musing until we are aroused by the striking of the frigate’s bell, and the hoarse cry echoed over the waters of “All’s well!”

The day after our arrival our ship presented rather a busy appearance. The cooper, with his gang, was preparing casks for water and provisions; others were engaged breaking out the hold and restowing oil, and all hands busy about something; outside a gang of Chinese calkers were busily engaged, and following them were another gang with scrapers and brooms, preparing the ship for an extra coat of paint.

The United States sloop of war “Plymouth” fired a salute on this day, in honor of a visit from the American consul. The report of her heavy guns almost deafened us, and caused our Kanakas to open wide their eyes with astonishment, and exclaim, “I g-o-lly; I never been hear all the same that fore!”

On Sunday, February 13th, the British mail steamer “Wildfire” arrived, having on board Governor BONHAM, who had been home to England on a visit. He was received by a salute from the men-of-war and the fort, and escorted to his residence by the military stationed here. In the eastern part of the town are situated the barracks; the buildings, which are of stone, are fine, large, and comfortable, and the grounds ample for military evolutions. The 59th regiment of infantry, a company of sappers and miners, and one artillery company, were stationed here at this time. They were composed of fine, healthy-appearing men, and when on parade presented a brilliant appearance.

We found three churches here—one a fine, large Episcopal church, built of stone; a Roman Catholic, and a third a “Union” church, as it was called, attended by persons of all creeds and denominations.

There are also several very fine hotels here, the principal of which is “Brooks’ Hotel.” This is generally the head-quarters of the naval officers. The house is kept on the European plan, is very commodious, and, above all, very neat and clean. Their charges are in proportion, as they intend their guests shall pay for what they have in good round sums.

While on shore shortly after our arrival, Dick Simpson, our “Group” native, saw a man pass on horseback. The poor fellow appeared dumb with astonishment; at length he exclaimed, “What for man, he on _big dog_! I g-o-lly; I no been see all same that my place; all the same that ’Merica?” On being answered in the affirmative his wonder still increased, if possible, and it proved a hard task to convince him that it was not a _dog_, but a _horse_. “Yes, he big dog; ’spose me no saby; he all the same dog,” he would say. In order to satisfy his curiosity, we took him to a horse, and told him to examine for himself. After having expressed himself as satisfied, he wished to know “where he came from.” We explained this as far as lay in our power to do, and after we ceased he chuckled, and told what yarns he would spin when he arrived at his “land.” “Kanaka my place all same fool; he no been see nothing!”

As we were the only sperm whaler in port, we attracted considerable attention, especially from the Yankee men-of-war’s-men, as they all lay in close proximity to us, many of whom paid us visits, some to purchase shells, whale’s teeth, and other curiosities, others to learn the _modus operandi_ of the capture of the sperm whale. The particulars of the chase appeared greatly to interest them, as they never before had the opportunity of listening to such narrations, or of inspecting the different apparatus for fastening and killing the whale, hoisting in the blubber, trying out, etc.

During one of these visits from the captain and one of the lieutenants of the store-ship “Supply,” Tom W——, of whom we have before spoken, being full of the old Nick, as usual, “button-holed” the lieutenant at once, and proceeded to show him the ship and whaling craft. He soon had the officer down in the hold, among the greasy oil casks, to show him the manner of _stowing down the oil_. He kept on a straight countenance, and told his guest he supposed he wished to see the whole show! The lieutenant did not appear to relish the sport, as he had already finely besmeared his coat and pants with dirty grease; and on remarking it, Tom coolly replied, “Oh! that is nothing; you should try a voyage whaling; you would not mind the grease much!” After piloting him through all the dirtiest parts of the ship, he at last brought up in the _cook’s galley_. The mate, who had been entertaining the captain of the “Supply,” now came in search of the lieutenant, and what was his surprise to see him cozily seated in the “galley” with Tom, who had him by the button-hole, very earnestly explaining how nicely our cooking was done, and the excellent virtues of the stove. The mate now came to the relief of the pestered officer, and was walking off with him, when Tom marched after, called him, extended his hand, and bade him good-by with much warmth, inviting him very cordially to call again. The lieutenant could not refuse his hand, and, returning a slight shake, turned away, looking daggers. However, we believe, on learning the particulars, being too much a gentleman to show anger, he laughed heartily at the joke, and before leaving the ship invited Tom to pay him a visit. Tom thanked him, and promised to avail himself of the honor and pleasure.

On Wednesday, February 16th, Sir WILLIAM BONHAM, the English governor, visited the steam frigate “Susquehanna,” and on leaving was honored by a salute, the cross of St. George at the fore royal-mast head. This vessel is the flag-ship of Commodore AULICK, who was daily expecting the arrival of Commodore PERRY to relieve him and take command of the squadron.

The officers on board the several naval vessels in port appeared very courteous and gentlemanly, and possessing a dignity that fully became their position. We felt proud of them as American naval officers, and willing that our navy and our country should be judged by them. There were, however, with them, as with every thing, a few exceptions. The lowest class of naval commissioned officers, familiarly known as “middies,” appeared altogether too large and nice for even the company of the commodore, and would strut about the decks of their ship, or the streets of the city, deeming any one who could not sport an _officer’s uniform_ entirely beneath their notice. We are glad, for the honor of our navy and country, that this class is small, and we would that it were less.

Wishing to visit the barracks of the soldiers and see them in their every-day life, we embraced the opportunity of an invitation from one of the officers, whose acquaintance we had previously formed, and paid them a visit. We must confess to a surprise in finding the excellent order and extreme cleanliness that every where prevailed. The rooms were large and well ventilated, and the cots placed in rows along the walls. From all appearances, the soldiers must have easy times and comfortable quarters. They are compelled to drill one hour each day, which usually takes place in the forenoon; from that time until 3 P.M. they are occupied in taking care of and cleaning their arms and accoutrements. From that time until 8 P.M. they are at liberty to go where they please. The evening gun is then fired, and all are required to be within the gates at half past 8, at which time each room is visited, and those absent after 9 P.M. are put under guard as soon as they return, and are punished according to the circumstances of the case.

For their amusement, a very good theatre is connected with the barracks, the actors belonging to the regiment. We learn that this is beneficial, inasmuch as it prevents many of them from seeking pleasure in the numerous drinking-houses which infest certain portions of the city; a pleasure that many of them appeared disposed to seek, but which is generally dear bought, as it is sure to be followed by a punishment proportionate to the offense.

Near the Episcopal church stands the fort, which, from its elevated position, commands the town. The battery is immediately on the beach, and has a fair sweep at the shipping. The authorities find it necessary to keep a strict watch over the Chinese population to prevent an insurrection. They only lack the courage; their hatred of the English is complete, and the will to rise and murder every “outside barbarian” in the city is not wanting in them.

One can scarcely pass through the streets but he is saluted with the cry of “Kum my shop; can sell much too chipp; no wanchee buy sum littley ting?” In fact, the Chinese portion of Hong Kong is a perfect Chatham Street. Going into a shop one morning, we began looking at various articles, the shopkeeper pulling down all his wares to show us. After selecting several articles, and inquiring the sum total of the bill, we were informed it was fourteen and a half dollars. We indignantly turned to leave, when he accosted us with,

“How much can catchee them tings?”

We told him “six dollars.”

“No can do; no can catch plofit, s’pose six dollar.”

“Very good,” we informed him, and again turned to leave, when he called to us the second time, and, after some bantering, told us we might have them for six dollars. Had we not have known the price of such articles previous to this, we might have paid him more than we did, but we knew they were all _Jews_ in trading, and were determined not to allow the rascal to cheat us.

They are great rascals, these Chinese merchants. The currency here is gold, silver, and copper, and they are very cautious in regard to it, being continually on the alert for spurious coin; yet, if they have the opportunity, will put off any quantity of it, and then lie out of it in the most barefaced, impudent manner imaginable. Spanish and Mexican dollars command a premium of from four to six cents; other silver they will not take for its full value. An American half dollar passes for but twenty-five cents among them. On receiving a piece of money, they inspect it very minutely, and if they discover the least flaw or defect in it, they refuse it as bad; or, as they say, “chop dollar—no proper;” yet, if they have the opportunity, will pass the same kind on the purchaser in giving change. If one of them refuse to take such money, it is only necessary to whisper the word “policeman” in his ear, and all is immediately right.

A seaman, who had recently come on shore to live from a California ship, received a bad dollar from one of these merchants. On discovering it, he proceeded to the shop and called for a backgammon-board. Choosing a beautiful one, finished with rich gilt work, he inquired the price. The Chinaman said “three dollars.”

“No, no, John Chinaman; s’pose me no saby you? me live too long Hong Kong; me no fool.”

“Well, s’pose can catchee two dollar, he very good?”

“No, I give you one dollar; proper.”

“Hiyah! how can do! no proper!”

“S’pose you like one dollar, very good; s’pose you no like, very good.”

“Me likey one dollar; two dollar more good; proper; you no see; number one, this fellow; alla same ’nother pigeon (merchant) sell five dollar.”

“Me no give more one dollar; plenty Chinaman speak one dollar proper.”

“Hiyah! Chinaman bloody liar! no speak good; too much lie. S’pose you like catchee one dollar half, proper; s’pose one dollar, no can do.”

“Well, s’pose you no like one dollar, me go ’nother shop.”

“No proper; s’pose you cum my shop, buy plenty, you catchee him one dollar.”

“Oh, certainly. I shall buy you out before I leave.”

Accordingly, he picked up the board, and threw down the same piece he had received from this merchant the day previous. On seeing this the Chinaman flew into a great passion, and called for his board to be returned to him; but it was too late; the purchaser had departed with it under his arm. However, he was not to be got rid of so easily; after the sailor he went, shouting after him to give up his board. The sailor heeded him not, but proceeded to his boarding-house, threw the board into his chest, closed it, and sat down on the