Life and Adventure in the South Pacific
CHAPTER XXII.
Island of Rota.—Appearance.—Streets and Houses.—Inhabitants.— Governor.—Guam.—Umata Bay.—Procuring Water.—Marisa.—Its Appearance.—Port of Apia.—Fort.—Liberty.—A splendid Ride.— Boarding-houses.—Police.—Reflections.—Inhabitants.—Choppers.—A cowardly Murder.—Bombardment of the Palace.—Attend Mass.—Toddy.— Streets.—Houses.—Palace.—Calaboose.—Cock-fighting.—Seminary.— Insurrection of Prisoners.—Females.—Take a Stroll.—Ruins.— Reservoir.—Tobacco.—Betel Nut.—Captain Anderson.—Rebellion.— Jollification.—A novel Mode of choosing a Governor.— Congratulations.—Parade.—Aguadente.—Caroline Islanders.—Last Day on Shore.—Arguing the Point.—Disarming the Guard.—“Where is my Musket?”—Visit to the Fort.—Strange Doings.—Ready for Sea.
With a strong breeze and all sail out, we were not long in reaching the Ladrone Islands. Tuesday, April 6th, at daylight, saw the island of Rota, bearing west half north, distant thirty miles. In the afternoon, in company with a boat from the “Mohawk,” we went on shore and procured a few hogs, yams, and fruit. This island is one of the most magnificent in appearance from the sea that we have yet seen. The land is moderately high, and thickly covered with evergreen foliage, with an occasional opening, showing the marks of cultivation. The town is built on a level spot of ground, with great regularity and neatness; the houses are all whitewashed or painted, and the streets kept clean. The inhabitants are very courteous and friendly, and evince quite a degree of civilization. They have a fine-looking church here, Roman Catholic, of course, which is built of stone, and looks much better on the outside than the inside. The governor received the captain, dressed in full uniform. He is a tall, noble-looking Spaniard, but the dress appeared as if it were made for some more bulky personage; perhaps he wore it _ex-officio_. One of the boys exclaimed, on seeing him, “The old governor’s clothes set like a purser’s shirt on a handspike.” His palace, as they term it, is a very comfortable-looking stone building, the calaboose adjoining it.
The next morning we were close in to the island of Guam. We took a pilot and proceeded to Umata Bay, where we dropped anchor about three P.M. Umata Bay is the watering-place for all whalers who refit at Guam, as it is the only point on the island where fresh water can be readily obtained. It is called a bay, but it is merely a roadstead, as ships anchoring here are exposed to the sea in all directions except the eastward.
Both ships’ companies were at it next morning rafting water, and made the old hills resound to the chorus of the merry song as they bent back to the tugging oar.
We took the opportunity of visiting the town of Marisa, situated three miles below Umata Bay, and found a very pretty village. The houses are all on one street, which is very long. One peculiarity we could not but notice: the street was swept very clean, and we observed many Spaniards of both sexes engaged in sweeping it, probably paying the penalty of breaking some law. The church here is a fine edifice, and contains two large bells, which ring out merrily for vespers. Although the governor has his permanent residence at Guam, yet he occasionally leaves the “heat and turmoil of city life,” and, taking his family for a visit to the “country,” spends a week or so in this village, where he has a large palace. After rambling around to our entire satisfaction, and spending the day very pleasantly, we returned with a fine breeze, the boat fairly flying through the water. We felt quite fatigued in consequence of our jaunt, but, after a refreshing rest, awoke next morning ready for another day’s tramp.
We improved the day in visiting the town of Umata Bay, and a short ramble in the mountains back. The village differed but little from that of Marisa: the same long street, swept clean; the same white houses; and, were it not for the absence of the palace and the difference in the country adjoining, one would almost imagine himself in the same village.
At two P.M. on Saturday, April 10th, we took on board the last of five hundred barrels of water, hove up the anchor with a will, and steered for the port of Apia. We arrived here the next morning, where we cast anchor. This is the anchorage, and the only safe one, for ships refitting at Guam, and is situated seven miles from the town or village of Guam, which is the capital of the group. The port of Apia is a fine bay, situated on the west side of the island, protected from the sea by a reef running across, with an entrance of about half a mile in width. This island, like nearly all in the Pacific, is surrounded by a coral reef. In the centre of the bay is a small island, on which is a fine-looking fort, with five or six guns mounted for the protection of the commerce of the island. We found several ships lying at anchor here, from some of which we obtained quite late news from home.
It is customary for ships that refit here to allow their men to go on shore and remain a week or ten days at a time, as the distance is so great—seven miles from town—that one day’s liberty at a time would be worth but little. Accordingly, on Monday, April 12th, the starboard watch were given a week’s liberty, while the other watch remained on board to paint ship. On landing, what was our surprise to see a large number of cows standing near, and, to our astonishment, we were informed that they were there for our accommodation, if we chose. For the sum of fifty cents we could enjoy a fine horseback ride on a cow “up to town.” As there were men from four ships going in company (nearly sixty of us), we all entered into the spirit of the affair, and each man selected his “horned beast” and mounted.
And now ensued a scene that beggars description. Leather thongs were made fast to the horns for the rider to hold on by, and the Spaniard, who led off on a noble animal, seeing all was ready, shouted “Arriva!” and away he went on the full run, the others following; the men having no saddles, some were rolling from side to side, some had seated themselves “wrong-end first,” and all, instead of hanging on to the thongs, reach forward, and, grasping the horns, hang on like _grim death_; the cows, with their heads stretched forward to the utmost, their bells jingling, each one bellowing and snorting, and their riders, instead of sitting upright, stretched in a horizontal position, their legs extended, and yelling like so many wild Indians; the old Spaniard shouting and singing in Spanish, and the whole cavalcade upon the full run—all this produced one of the wildest scenes imaginable. As the procession entered the town, Spaniards of both sexes, men, women, and children, rushed to the street, shouting and laughing at the “Americanos.” The old Spaniard kept on, and, after having made the circuit of the town, brought up at the “Grand Plaza” in front of the governor’s palace, the poor riders being almost insensible from the continual and deafening din that surrounded them.
They halted here, and all hands joyfully dismounted; the Spaniards crowded around to congratulate them on their _good riding_, but, paying no attention to them, they “_vamosed_” in search of a boarding-house. By the laws of the island, every white man or foreigner must have a boarding-house, and be within doors at eight P.M. This is necessary, that good order may be preserved in the night-time, and tends to prevent many disgraceful scenes that would otherwise occur.
The police here are very vigilant. Every person who keeps a boarding-house is compelled to report the names of his boarders, and about eight P.M. the captain of the police goes around to see if all are in. If any are absent from their respective houses, they are found and marched home; and should they be saucy, or show any belligerent spirit, off they go to the calaboose. This also tends to prevent desertions, as the governor allows no white man to remain on the island unless sick. There are a few old residents here who are exceptions, they being citizens.
Loving an early morning walk, five A.M. the next day after our arrival on shore found us “up and dressed,” and out. It was truly a lovely morning, the sun shining brightly, birds singing sweetly, and the church bells ringing merrily. As we walked along the banks of a quiet stream, how did these sounds bring up in our minds similar scenes at home—our own peaceful stream, the feathery songsters, and the old church bells. But the roar of the surf dashing over the breakers reminded us that many, many miles of “deep blue sea” separated us from our homes, and that many days must pass ere we could again live over those happy days, and our present musings be realized.
The inhabitants of this island are of the Malay race, intermixed with the Spaniards. They are generally very kind and hospitable to the stranger, often inviting him to their houses, and setting before him refreshments, fruits, etc.; but if offended, they are revengeful to a sanguinary degree. Many of them carry short, thick swords, called “choppers,” by their sides, which they use for clearing their small farms and other purposes. With these choppers they frequently commit horrible outrages, inflicting, in the heat of passion, terrible wounds upon each other, or upon any one who may chance to give them cause for affront, fancied or real.
It was at this island that Captain Stevens, master of an English whaler, was murdered a few years since, in a cowardly and brutal manner. He was set upon by a gang of desperadoes, under direction of the then governor, with whom Captain S. had had some difficulty. The miscreants stole into his room and took his pistols, which were lying on the table, and, on going out to ascertain who had committed the theft, he was attacked and fairly cut to pieces, the wretches not desisting until they had murdered him. It is reported that the governor was punished by his own government and removed from the island.
An amusing incident occurred a few years ago, illustrating the bravery of the governor and the army. The master of an American whaler, being ready for sea, and some of his men being imprisoned in the calaboose for some trifling breach of the laws, went to the governor and demanded his men, stating that he was ready for sea, and should sail at four P.M. His excellency replied that he could not have them unless he paid the fine imposed, which was a very large amount. The captain, thinking, from the large amount imposed for so slight a breach committed, it a mere plan to extort money from him, replied that he would pay no money to the governor, whereupon the latter replied that “he could not have his men.” The captain took his leave, saying that if the men were not on board at four P.M., he, the governor, must suffer the consequences. He now proceeded to his ship, weighed anchor, left the harbor, and at four P.M. was opposite the town. When within about a quarter of a mile of the shore, and directly opposite the palace, he hauled aback his main-yard, ran up the stars and stripes, and commenced to bombard the palace with one six-pounder, which was all the cannon he had on board. Almost within range of the palace, and situated at the water’s edge, was a stone fort with several guns mounted. The brave commander did not see fit to return the fire, when he might have blown the ship to atoms. After half a dozen shots had been fired, a flag of truce was seen on the fort. He ceased firing, and a boat was soon seen approaching the ship containing his men and a file of soldiers, the commandant of whom gave him the compliments of the governor, who, he said, had sent his men, and requested him to cease firing, as one shot had taken effect in the palace, and actually lodged in his private room. The captain took his men and departed. The governor still preserves the ball, and frequently exhibits it to visitors as the one the Yankee skipper fired at him.
We had received an invitation to attend mass with some of our Spanish friends, and, arousing ourselves at four A.M. on Wednesday, April 14th, we proceeded to the church. It is a fine-looking stone building, very large and massive, with a chime of bells in its tower. On entering, we found it well lighted, and filled with Spaniards of both sexes. It is beautifully furnished inside, many of the ornaments and holy vessels being of gold and silver. The services were solemn and impressive, and, although they worshiped in a different manner from us, yet we could not but feel a devotional sentiment within us as we listened to the beautiful chant, and witnessed the devout worshipers at their devotions. It seemed to bring us nearer to the land of Christianity, accustomed as we had been, for months past, to attend no place of public worship.
On arriving at our boarding-house after mass, we found some delicious “toddy” awaiting us. This, when fresh from the tree, is a palatable and pleasant drink, and is highly beneficial to a person coming ashore after a long cruise on salt water, and living mostly on salt provisions. It is procured by a person called a “toddy-cutter,” who ascends to the top of a cocoanut-tree in the shade of the evening, and cuts a number of notches at the root of one of the limbs, hanging a long piece of bamboo underneath, which in the morning is found filled with the delicious beverage. After collecting his several bamboo vessels, he proceeds to distribute them at the different boarding-houses, supplying all who may wish with this excellent beverage. It is needless to say that the “toddy-cutter” was very liberally patronized while so many seamen were on shore. There are no intoxicating qualities in the toddy, no more than in a glass of soda or lemonade.
The streets of Guam are very wide and straight, and are kept clean. The houses are built compactly of wood and stone; those built of wood, which comprise the greater number, are elevated on frame-work and posts four or five feet above the ground. They are mostly of one story, painted white, and are neat and orderly in appearance. The stone houses are built in a substantial manner, and look very solid and comfortable. The governor’s palace is a long stone building of two stories, with nothing remarkable about it to indicate it as the _palace_ of the governor of the great island of Guam. The west end of it joins the calaboose, which is a solid stone building of one story, and they are both guarded by sentries. Immediately in front of both buildings is the “Grand Plaza,” in the centre of which is the cock-pit.
The inhabitants here delight in the cruel exhibition of cock-fighting, and manifest great interest in the combats. Not being satisfied with seeing these noble fowls destroy each other with the weapons which nature has given them, they place on them steel spurs shaped similar to a scythe, which are made very sharp. Armed with these destructive weapons, the contest is soon decided, as the first blow frequently kills the unlucky bird. These exhibitions always take place on the Sabbath, as that is their grand gala day. At the time appointed the arena is opened, a ring made, and no person allowed inside the rope but the judges and owners of the cocks. The space around is completely thronged with old, middle-aged and young men, who enter into this cruel sport with the greatest animation. Even the governor is always present, witnessing the combats, and betting as freely as any one. The fowls are large, noble-looking animals, of the Malay breed, and upon two being brought into the ring, the betting commences with great excitement, from a rial to a dollar, and more, according to the wealth of the parties. One Spaniard holds up his finger, and shouts out the name of the fowl he chooses to bet on; another, seeing him, raises his in the same manner, and names his favorite; and so on around the ring. The signal is given, and the cocks, being let loose, fly at each other, and, as we before remarked, the combat is soon terminated. Those who have lost now pay over the stakes, and two more fowls are entered. This continues through the greater portion of the afternoon, and it is surprising to see the large quantity of noble-looking fowls slain.
On the east side of the Plaza is a fine-looking stone building used as a seminary, which is supported by the Church, for the purpose of educating those who can not afford to attend private schools, and of protecting and educating the orphan. This institution is the pride of the island, and may well be considered as such, for it is productive of great and lasting benefit. The scholars manifest much interest in their studies, and their behavior and accomplishments would compare favorably with many similar institutions in our own land, where the opportunities of a good education are so general.
A few months since the prisoners confined in the calaboose, about one hundred in number, attempted to take the palace. Their plans were all laid; a part were to attack in front, the remainder in the rear. The object was to obtain possession of the arms and ammunition contained in the palace, and then to make an attempt to capture the island. The plot was discovered, however, just in time to frustrate it; and, after some severe fighting, during which about twenty-five were killed, the remainder were secured, and sent to Manilla for trial, and were there hung.
While walking through the town one evening, we heard the sound of music issuing from a building near by. On presenting ourselves at the door, we were invited in, and found the room filled with females, with but one or two exceptions. It was the hour of vespers. At one end of the room was the image of the Virgin Mary and the Crucifixion. Those chanting were on their knees, with their hands crossed on their breasts, the very picture of humility and meekness. As their sweet voices mingled in the beautiful chant of “_Ave, Sanctissima_,” we could not but be struck with the solemnity and sublimity of the scene. If woman be all she is represented to be, lively, charming, and angelic, she is certainly more than this when engaged in offering devotion to Almighty GOD, and imploring the aid of the divine Savior. The females of Guam are remarkably fair-looking: keen black eyes, long, flowing black hair, smooth complexion, and possessed of a robust and well-rounded form; their step light and elastic, and very graceful in their movements. One of these dark-eyed beauties in the attitude of prayer, her hands beseechingly clasped, her loose hair flowing luxuriantly around her well-rounded shoulders, and her countenance expressive of meekness and innocence, would form a model for the chisel of a Powers.
After vespers we passed a very pleasant evening with these lively, chatting beauties, from whom we learned much of interest in regard to the island; and we must confess to a slight feeling of regret when we heard the bells peal forth the hour of eight, compelling us to say to them “_Adios_.”
The next day we had planned for a stroll in the country round, and before 6 A.M. were on our way, with two Spanish lads about eighteen years of age as guides. We passed several farms on our route, and, from appearances, we should judge the occupants to be well skilled in agriculture. About five miles northeast of the town we came to the ruins of a large stone building, which, our guides informed us, were the remains of a monastery, and built, as they said, “very many year ago.” On examining an arch or gateway, we found the keystone marked 1636. The stones appeared regularly hewn and well fitted. It would seem from this that the art of masonry was understood here more than two hundred years ago, as this building must have been erected under the supervision of a _master mason_, well-skilled in the use of the _square, level, plumb, and trowel_.
Near this pile of ruins is a large stone reservoir, about thirty feet in length, twenty-five in width, and thirty to forty in depth. At this time it had about three feet depth of water in it. This reservoir was probably built at the same time as the monastery, as our guide said, on asking him when it was built, “_Tiempo Casa Dios_” (at the time of the building of the house of GOD).
After walking some distance farther, nothing of interest presenting itself, we set out on our return. When within about one mile of town, we noticed several large sheds filled with tobacco, which is grown here in large quantities. The inhabitants, however, do not understand manufacturing it otherwise than into cigars. All smoke here—men, women, and children; and we must confess that it detracts somewhat from the beauty of a young lady to see her promenading the street with a huge cigar in her mouth, puffing away most lustily; but this spectacle is so common here that one soon becomes accustomed to it.
The betel-nut is chewed by “all hands,” giving a reddish cast to the teeth, of which they all seem very proud. The young Ladrone beauty prides herself as much on the bright-red appearance of her teeth as the American ladies do on the pearly whiteness of theirs.
On arriving at our boarding-house we found ourselves covered with mud, and possessed of alarming appetites. It is useless to add that we did ample justice to the fine dish of curried chickens, with all the “fixins to match,” which was set before us.
Not forgetting our old friend, Captain Anderson, we called upon him next day, Friday, April 16th, and learned some very interesting and amusing facts connected with the history of the island, one of which we will relate as he gave it to us: Some years ago Captain A. and a few more English residents contrived a plan to make themselves possessors of the island. They secretly worked, step by step, at the same time insinuating themselves into the good graces of the governor. Their plans worked to a charm, and, when they were fully matured, they quietly took possession of the palace, the governor having been made, as Captain. A. expressed it, “as drunk as a boiled owl.” As they now had possession of all the arms and ammunition, it was an easy matter to subdue the natives, which they did in short order, without loss of life on either side, covering themselves with glory. As a matter of course, the new lords and masters must have a glorious jollification over the affair, and at the same time agree on a governor. This latter, however, proved no easy task, as all were equally anxious to “serve their country” in being chief dignitary of the island. After consulting and debating some hours, and finding they were no nearer a decision than at first, they decided to have a _spree_, and whoever should remain sober the longest, and see the others all laid out, should be the honorable governor. Accordingly, at it they went; bottle after bottle disappeared; one by one they voluntarily relinquished their seats and quietly rolled under the table. After a short time no one remained in his seat but Captain A., and he, feeling elated at his success, drank a few bumpers to “Captain Anderson, the future governor of the distinguished island of Guam.” But, as he said, “he was born under an unlucky star.” So it proved, as the bumpers he drank to his own good health keeled him over, and he took his place among his comrades.
The Spaniards, who had been watching these proceedings with no small degree of interest, seeing how matters stood, and the would-be governors gloriously drunk, very adroitly bound them hand and foot. The dethroned governor was, of course, immediately reinstated, and the next day these _noble spirits_ were arraigned for trial. Being convicted of treason, they were sentenced to be placed on a raft, taken out to sea, and then cast loose, leaving them at the mercy of the winds and waves. This was accordingly done; and, after drifting about several days, they were safely landed on the island of Tinian (one of the group.) Here they resided some time; finally, expressing their sorrow for what they had done, the governor pardoned them, and permitted them to make Guam their future residence, on swearing allegiance to the government and promising to be true and loyal citizens.
The week was now closed which had been given to one watch from each ship for liberty. Accordingly, they returned to their respective ships, and the other watches came on shore—about the same number of men. They arrived in due form and procession; and, as we could now look on and witness the performance, we enjoyed the scene with a hearty good-will. As soon as they dismounted, we were among the first to offer our congratulations on their grand and imposing entrée. How natural for men, on finding themselves taken in and done for, to watch and enjoy seeing others victimized. Thus it was in this case; all would speak highly of their merry ride, particularly when in the presence of the uninitiated.
As we before remarked, Sunday is the grand gala day of the inhabitants here. Among other things, we witnessed a parade and review of the _army_ stationed here by the governor, numbering, officers, high privates and all, twenty-five. They do duty as policemen as well as soldiers. They were not a very formidable-looking body of men; some were dressed in white, and some in blue, with fancifully decorated cloth caps. A portion of them were armed with muskets, the remainder with spears. However, they performed their evolutions very well, although we do not believe their commander ever studied _Scott’s Tactics_.
At the close of the morning service every one appeared preparing for the afternoon sports. At an early hour the space around the cock-pit was crowded with young and old, anxiously awaiting the sport, as they term it, to commence. At two o’clock the fighting began between two noble-looking fowls. The betting ran high, but the battle was soon decided by one of the cocks receiving a home-thrust that pierced his heart. The fighting now continued in this manner until about thirty were slain. In the evening nearly every house was thrown open to receive calls from “Americanos” and others, who were entertained with music and refreshments.
A kind of liquor called “aguadente” is distilled here, very intoxicating in its qualities, yet the effects are not as bad as are those of the poisonous liquors sold in this country. We expected to see the “Americanos” nearly all drunk on this day, as we knew it would circulate pretty freely; but to their credit be it said, not one of them became intoxicated. They all seemed to shun it, whether it was because it was the Sabbath, or for what reason we know not, but “all hands” continued sober through the day.
The following morning, on strolling along the beach, we found several “Caroline Island” canoes had arrived during the night. These canoes are about forty feet in length and six feet beam, quite deep, and will carry from fifteen to twenty tons. They are provided with an extensive outrigger to prevent their capsizing, and carry a large mat sail. When under full sail in a strong breeze, being very sharp in their construction, they skim along over the water with amazing velocity. The natives are large, robust fellows, with no clothing but the _tappa_, or a fine mat worn across the shoulders in the form of a scarf. Each canoe carries one family, and they appear to live in a very peaceable and happy manner on board their diminutive craft. Their island homes are about four degrees to the southward. On inquiring of them through a Spaniard, as interpreter, how they found the island, they replied, pointing upward, “Stars by night, sun by day.” Their cargo consists of hats, mats, and shells. In return, they take tobacco, pipes, calico, and aguadente. These canoes ply regularly between the Caroline Islands and Guam.
The time had now come for all hands to return on board. Another week had flown, and we must leave the land for the water again. But the boys wished to have a “grand time” before leaving, and the last day each one appeared to be determined to make the most of. Long Manuel, our Portugee, appeared very much troubled by the _width_ of the various streets he was attempting to explore, while our Kanakas were singing their native songs with considerable mirth and _high_-larity. In the evening they all assembled for a dance at one boarding-house at an early hour. They had secured the services of four Spaniards as fiddlers, and on their arrival at it they went. Eight o’clock came, and with it also came the chief of police, ordering them to cease dancing, stop their noise, and disperse. On hearing this, Tom W., the ship’s wag, who had “imbibed” pretty freely, proceeded to “argue the point” with the policeman, who could understand but little English. He continued to lay it down in a very emphatic manner, using language that seemed to completely nonplus the Spaniard, who would occasionally refer to the boarding-house landlord, and inquire what the man was talking so earnestly about. The landlord, who well understood what was up, replied that Tom was praising the island and their rules and regulations. This the Spaniard believed, as Tom would occasionally introduce into his speech the words “Bueno Espaniolo” (excellent Spaniards), and end it by inviting him to drink. This part the policeman could understand without any difficulty, and, after having drunk several times, he became as merry as the rest, and, finding he could do nothing with them, departed.
In a short time a file of soldiers made their appearance. The sergeant, who could neither speak English nor understand it, informed the landlord that he must disperse the sailors and shut up his house. The landlord, however, shut the door in his face, and told Tom what was going on, who, instantly seizing a bottle, ran out and offered it to the officer; but of no avail; he was not to be bribed in so easy a manner. Tom now turned his attention to the soldiers, and passed the bottle so freely among them that the sergeant ordered them to cease drinking. However, another bottle was soon produced, and a more merry lot of soldiers was never seen. In vain the officer endeavored to put a stop to the proceedings; they were now all in the house, and had entered into the spirit of the evening; and while all hands, sailors and soldiers, were dancing, Tom very carefully took all their muskets and hid them in a quiet place.
Thus matters moved along, the noise and fun increasing, until the hour of twelve, at which time the guard were to return to head-quarters, make their report, and be relieved. As the bell tolled forth the hour, they seemed to regain possession of their senses; visions of the guard-house floated across their minds, and they well knew it was their doom unless they immediately departed. But now all was confusion: “Where is my musket?” was the general cry; but no muskets were to be found. They raved and swore, but all to no purpose; no one could tell what had become of them. On hearing the sound of the first relief bell, they rushed for the door pell-mell, and found their officer had already taken his departure. They waited no longer, but ran down the streets at full speed. As soon as they were out of sight, Tom took the muskets, carried them to the river, and, wading to a considerable depth, _safely deposited_ the “government arms,” and then returned to the house, where the dance was kept up without farther interruption.
The next morning all hands took leave of the goodly city of Guam, and returned to their respective ships.
One evening before our departure a delegation from each ship in port visited the fort near the anchorage. We found it a solid piece of masonry, mounting six guns of eighteen pounds calibre. It is entirely surrounded by water, and guarded by a few soldiers. About 2 A.M. the several delegations returned, and at daylight a _small army_ was seen approaching. Wondering what could be the cause of this, we were all on the _qui vive_ for news. We soon learned that they had come to _retake the fort_! It appears that the whalemen had gone for a lark, and had driven the soldiers ashore from the fort, taken possession of it, unshipped the guns, and turned things around to their own liking—spilling things generally. The conquering army approached the premises very cautiously, and, after considerable manœuvring, entered, but found the premises vacant, thus obtaining a great and bloodless victory. No doubt they considered it a great achievement, and had it proclaimed as such among their countrymen.
Every thing being now “shipshape and Bristol fashion,” we took our departure for the Japan ground, determined to give battle to the sperm whale _this_ season as we had never before done, knowing that every whale that we now captured shortened our voyage materially.