Part 1

THE SPANISH SERIES

LEON, BURGOS

AND

SALAMANCA

THE SPANISH SERIES

_EDITED BY ALBERT F. CALVERT_

GOYA TOLEDO MADRID SEVILLE MURILLO CORDOVA EL GRECO VELAZQUEZ THE PRADO THE ESCORIAL ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR LEON, BURGOS, AND SALAMANCA CATALONIA, VALENCIA, & MURCIA VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA

LEON, BURGOS AND SALAMANCA

A HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT. BY ALBERT F. CALVERT, WITH 462 ILLUSTRATIONS

LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMVIII

Edinburgh: T. and A. CONSTABLE, Printers to His Majesty

_To_

_THE MARQUIS OF VIANA_

_The History of whose House

Is indissolubly connected

With the Grandest Traditions

of Spain

This Volume is Dedicated

With a Sincere Expression

Of the Author’s Esteem_

PREFACE

In the plan of this book, as in the other volumes of the Series, the text has been made subordinate to and explanatory of the illustrations, which, I venture to hope, will be found to form a complete and useful panorama of the monumental glories of these grand old cities. I have not proposed to write a guide-book for the tourist, but rather to supply him with a souvenir, and to provide a manual for those interested in architecture and archæology. I have avoided technology as much as possible, as my appeal is not to the professional student, but to the amateur (in the true sense) of the arts. In order to supplement my own knowledge and revise the impressions derived from personal observation in the three towns, I have availed myself freely of the works of others who have laboured in the same field, and have been at much pains to consult all the writings I could find upon the subject. The lengthy list of authorities I have consulted need not be recited here, as they are duly acknowledged in the text.

As in the case of all the cities dealt with in this Series, I have prepared a brief historical sketch of Leon, Burgos, and Salamanca. Their early history is largely of a speculative and debatable character, and much of it has been learnedly discounted by modern writers. Let me explain at once, that while recounting incidents which may be suspected of merely traditional origin, I neither accept nor reject the criticism of these recent historians, and if I do not quote their conclusions, it is because they are often too conflicting to be embodied in so slight a work. I would also add, that a quotation is not to be taken as a blind acceptance of the accuracy of the dicta or as a recognition of the writer as an absolute authority.

In conclusion, I may explain that I have dealt more briefly with the architecture of these Gothic cities than with the Moorish monuments of Seville, Cordova, and Granada, my reason being that the general reader is more familiar with Gothic and Renaissance styles than with the rarer work of the Arabs.

To Mr. E. B. d’Auvergne I offer my grateful acknowledgment of the assistance he has rendered me in the compilation of the text, and my thanks are also due to Señor J. Lacoste and Messrs. Hauser y Menet for their permission to reproduce many of the photographs which appear in this volume.

A. F. C.

CONTENTS

CHAP. PAGE

I. LEON 1

II. BURGOS 33

III. SALAMANCA 96

ILLUSTRATIONS

LEON

SUBJECT PLATE

General View of Leon, 1

View from the Cemetery, 2

Cathedral: View from the North, 3

Cathedral: General View, 4

Leon Cathedral, 5

Cathedral: Door of the Cross-Aisle (restored), 6

Leon Cathedral, 7

Lateral Façade of the Cathedral, 8

Longitudinal Section of the Cathedral, 9

Cathedral: Stained Glass Window of the Thirteenth Century, 10

Cathedral: Stained Glass Window of the Fourteenth Century, 11

Plan of the Cathedral, 12

Cathedral: Central Gate of the Principal Porch, 13

Cathedral: Right Gate of the Principal Porch, 14

Cathedral: Detail of the Lower Part of the Principal Portico, 15

Cathedral: Arch of the Central Portico, 16

Cathedral: Arch of the Right Door, 17

Cathedral: Left Gate of Principal Porch, 18

Cathedral: Gate of the Coro, 19

Cathedral: Door of the Chapel of St. Andrew, 20

Cathedral: Painted Walls, 21

Cathedral: Statue of Our Lady La Blanca in the Principal Porch, 22

Cathedral: A Sepulchre, 23

Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Ordoño II., 24

Cathedral: Sepulchre of Martin, First Bishop of Leon, 25

Cathedral: Detail of the Door of the Chapel of St. Andrew, 26

Cathedral: The Cloisters. Our Lady Del Foro and the Offerings of the Kings, 27

Cathedral: Spandril of Central Gate. The Last Judgment, 28

Cathedral: Spandril of Central Gate. The Last Judgment, 29

Cathedral: Detail of the Right Gate, 30

Cathedral: Detail of the Gate of the Chapel of St. Andrés, 31

Cathedral: Various Statues from the Cross Aisle, 32

Cathedral: Detail of the Right-hand Portico, 33

Cathedral: The Back of the Choir, 34

Cathedral: The Choir Stalls, 35

Cathedral: The Choir Stalls, 36

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir, 37

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. The Guardian Angel of Paradise, and the Archangel St. Michael, 38

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Noah, Adam and Eve, 39

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. The Archangel Gabriel and Abraham, 40

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Isaac and Jacob, 41

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Esau, 42

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Samson, 43

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Mathias and St. Mark, 44

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Luke and St. Bartholomew, 45

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Andrew and St. Peter, 46

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Santiago Alfeo and St. Philip, 47

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. John the Evangelist and Santiago, 48

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Saint Mary Magdalene and Santo Domingo, 49

Cathedral: In the Choir. St. Nicodemus and Valour, 50

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Martha and St. Lucy, 51

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Francis and St. Catherine, 52

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. St. Froylan and St. Nicholas, 53

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Vitorino and San Martin, 54

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. Santa Cristina and Santa Elena, 55

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Gregorio and San Geronimo, 56

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Silvestre and San Lupercio, 57

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Lorenzo and San Vicente, 58

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. San Celedonio and San Esteban, 59

Cathedral: Choir Stalls. A Saint, 60

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 61

Cathedral: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 62

Cathedral: Statue of the Virgin, 63

Cathedral: Detail of the Cloisters, 64

Cathedral: Bas-reliefs in the Cloisters, 65

Façade of the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 66

Gate of Pardon: Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 67

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 68

Principal Gate of the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 69

Panteon of the Kings in the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 70

Spandril of Gate of Pardon: Collegiate Church of San Isidoro, 71

Fresco of the Panteon of the Kings in the Collegiate Church of San Isidoro. End of Eleventh Century, 72

Sections and Details of the Panteon of San Isidoro, 73

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Painting on the Wall of the Panteon of the Kings, 74

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Paintings on the Walls of the Panteon of the Kings, 75

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Chalice and Paten of Doña Urraca, and Cross, 76

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Ivory Cross of King Fernando I. and Sancha his Wife, 77

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Relics, containing St. Martin’s Hand, St. John Baptist’s Jaw, one of St. Isidoro’s Fingers, and some of the Virgin’s Hair, 78

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Chalice and Crucifix in Filigree Gold, 79

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Ivory Coffer, 80

Collegiate Church of San Isidoro: Gothic Crucifix in Gold, 81

San Miguel de Escalada: General View of the Convent, 82

San Miguel de Escalada: Exterior of the Temple and Portico, 83

San Miguel de Escalada: Interior of the Church, 84

San Miguel de Escalada: Interior of the Church, 85

San Miguel de Escalada: Southern Façade, Plan, and Details (Town Hall, Gradefes) 86

San Miguel de Escalada: Longitudinal and Transverse Sections and Details. (Town Hall, Gradefes), 87

Details of San Miguel de Escalada. (Town Hall, Gradefes), 88

San Miguel de Escalada: A Capital in the Church, 89

Our Lady Del Mercado, 90

Our Lady Del Mercado: Barred Window in the Principal Façade, 91

Church of San Pedro de Los Huertos, 92

General View of the Convent of San Marcos, 93

Principal Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 94

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 95

Entrance to the Convent of San Marcos, 96

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 97

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 98

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 99

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 100

Detail of the Façade of the Convent of San Marcos, 101

Sacristy in the Convent of San Marcos, 102

Stalls in the Convent of San Marcos, 103

Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir, 104

Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 105

Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Stalls, 106

Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir Stalls, 107

Church of San Marcos: Detail of the Choir, 108

Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Tray, Crucifix, and Vase, 109

Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Cross of Santiago de Peñalva, 110

Provincial Museum of San Marcos: Christ in the Byzantine Style, and the Virgin in the Gothic Style, 111

Provincial Museum of San Marcos: San Francisco, 112

Don Ordoño II. presenting his Palace to the Virgin, 113

Standard of Alfonso VII., Emperor, now belonging to the Illustrious Families of Leon, 114

Tower of the Ponces, 115

Las Casas Consistoriales, 116

House of the Guzmanes, 117

Bastions of the Ancient Walls, 118

Calle de Santa Ana, 119

Corner of the House of the Guzmanes, 120

View of the Railway Station, 121

General View of Astorga, 122

Mountaineers of the Province, 123

Ivory Casket of the Ninth Century, from San Isidoro at Leon, now in the National Archæological Museum, 124

Two Statues in the Archæological Museum, 125

BURGOS

View of Burgos, 126

General View of Burgos, 127

La Plaza Mayor, 128

General View from the Castle, 129

Mansion of the Cid, 130

El Paseo del Espolon, 131

View from the Provincial Museum, 132

A View of Burgos, 133

The Cathedral, 134

Façade of the Cathedral, 135

Cathedral: Puerta de la Pellegeria, 136

Cathedral: View from the Cloisters, 137

Cathedral: Upper Part of the Tower, 138

Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel, 139

Cathedral: Principal Front, 140

Cathedral: From the Cloisters Garden, 141

Towers of the Cathedral, 142

Cathedral: One of the Spires, 143

Cathedral: Bosses--Detail, Spire Windows--Angle and Crocket of Spire, 144

Cathedral: Interior of Spire--Doorway to Spire, 145

Court of the Cathedral, 146

General Plan of the Cathedral, 147

Burgos Cathedral, 148

Cathedral: View of the Principal Nave and High Altar, 149

Burgos Cathedral, 150

Cathedral: View of the Nave from the Gate of the Pellegeria, 151

Cathedral: Back Part of the High Altar, 152

Cathedral: Choir Stalls, 153

Interior of the Cathedral, 154

Details in the Cathedral, 155

Details in the Cathedral, 156

Details in the Cathedral, 157

Details in the Cathedral, 158

Details in the Cathedral, 159

Details in the Cathedral, 160

Cathedral: Exterior of the Constable’s Chapel, 161

Cathedral: Interior View of the Constable’s Chapel, 162

Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel, 163

Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 164

Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 165

Cathedral: The Constable’s Chapel from the Altar, 166

Cathedral: Entrance to the Constable’s Chapel, 167

Cathedral: Details of the Constable’s Chapel, 168

Cathedral: Altar-piece on the Epistle Side of the Constable’s Chapel, 169

Cathedral: Windows of Sacristy, the Constable’s Chapel, 170

Cathedral: Doorway and Window in the Constable’s Chapel, 171

Cathedral: Santa Ana, in the Altar-piece of the Constable’s Chapel, 172

Cathedral: St. Margaret with the Monster at her Feet, in the Altar-piece of the Constable’s Chapel, 173

Cathedral: Details of the Principal Chapel, 174

Cathedral: Details of the Exterior of the Principal Chapel, 175

Cathedral: Exterior of the Principal Chapel, 176

Cathedral: Chapel of St. Anne, 177

Cathedral: Details of the Altar-piece in the Chapel of St. Anne, 178

Cathedral: Chapel of Santa Tecla, 179

Cathedral: Staircase leading to Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 180

Cathedral: View of the Cloisters, 181

Cathedral: Gate of the Old Sacristy in the Cloisters, 182

Cathedral: The Cloister Gate, 183

Cathedral: Puerta Del Sarmental, 184

Cathedral: Gate of Pardon, 185

Cathedral: A Doorway, 186

Cathedral: A Doorway, 187

Cathedral: Porch of the Pellegeria, 188

Cathedral: Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 189

Cathedral: Puerta Alta de la Coroneria, 190

Cathedral: The Famous Coffer of the Cid, 191

Cathedral: Central Dome in the Cross-aisle, 192

Cathedral: Processional Door in the Cloisters, 193

Cathedral: Entrance to the Cloisters, 194

Cathedral: Detail of the Door leading to the Gothic Cloisters, 195

Cloisters of the Cathedral, 196

The Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 197

Cathedral: The Cloisters, 198

Cathedral: The Cloisters, 199

Cathedral: The Cloisters, 200

Cathedral: Detail of the Cloisters, 201

Cathedral: Bas-relief in the Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 202

Cathedral: Bas-reliefs in the Lower Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 203

Cathedral: Soffits of Cloister Arches and Ornaments from Doors, 204

San Fernando and Doña Beatriz of Swabia in the Cathedral Cloisters, 205

Cathedral: Longitudinal Section of the Cloisters. Eleventh Century, 206

Cathedral: Details of the Sepulchre of Don Fernando Diez de Fuente-Pelayo, 207

Niches with Tombs in the Cathedral Cloisters, 208

Cathedral: Puerta Del Sarmental, 209

Cathedral: Sepulchre of Don Fernando Diez de Fuente-Pelayo, Abbot of St. Martin, 210

Details of Screens in the Cathedral, 211

Cathedral: El Cristo de Los Huevos, 212

Cathedral: Sepulchre of Archbishop Luis de Acuña, 213

Cathedral: Sepulchre of the Founder of the Cathedral, 214

Cathedral: Our Lady la Mayor, Statue of Silver, 215

Cathedral: Processional Crucifix in Silver Gilt, the Work of Juan de Arfe in 1592, 216

Cathedral: Gold Enamelled Vase with Cover and Antique Medallions, two Silver Gilt Goblets, and Jug, 217

Cathedral: Double-handled Vessel with Cover, the Work of Dom. Urquiza de Madrid, in 1771, 218

Cathedral: Statues of Saints and Ecclesiastics, 219

Cathedral: Details of Balconies, 220

Cathedral: Remains of Altar--Relievo from Portal. Eleventh Century, 221

Cathedral: Compartment of Apsis, 222

Cathedral: Part of the Open Gallery or Triforium, 223

Cathedral: Details of the Choir Stalls, 224

Altar-piece of the Church of San Nicolás, 225

La Cartuja: General View of the Church, 226

La Cartuja: Gate of the Church, 227

La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Infante Don Alonso, 228

La Cartuja: Interior View of the Church, 229

La Cartuja : Sepulchre of the Infante Don Alonso, 230

La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 231

La Cartuja: Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 232

La Cartuja: Statue of San Bruno, 233

La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 234

La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 235

La Cartuja: Details of the Sepulchre of the Sovereigns John II. and Isabel of Portugal, 236

La Cartuja de Miraflores: Details of the Choir Stalls, and Stall of the Officiating Priest, 237

La Cartuja de Miraflores: Stalls of the Lay Brothers, 238

La Cartuja de Miraflores: A Side Door, 239

La Cartuja de Miraflores: Detail of the Choir, 240