Part 6

I saw ptarmigan get up, and Albert fire--he then disappeared from my sight, and I rode on. It became cold and misty when we were on _Loch-na-Gar_. In half an hour, or rather less, Albert rejoined me with two ptarmigan, having come up by a shorter way. Here it was quite soft, easy walking, and we looked down on two small lochs called _Na Nian_, which were very striking, being so high up in the hills. Albert was tired, and remounted his pony; I had also been walking a little way. The ascent commenced, and with it a very thick fog, and when we had nearly reached the top of _Loch-na-Gar_, the mist drifted in thick clouds so as to hide everything not within one hundred yards of us. Near the peak (the fine point of the mountain which is seen so well from above Grant’s house) we got off and walked, and climbed up some steep stones, to a place where we found a seat in a little nook, and had some luncheon. It was just two o’clock, so we had taken four hours going up.

But, alas! nothing whatever to be seen; and it was cold, and wet, and cheerless. At about twenty minutes after two we set off on our way downwards, the wind blowing a hurricane, and the mist being like rain, and everything quite dark with it. Bowman (Mr. Farquharson’s keeper) and Macdonald, who preceded us, looked like ghosts. We walked some way till I was quite breathless, and remounted my pony, well wrapped up in plaids; and we came down by the same path that Albert had come up, which is shorter, but steeper; the pony went delightfully; but the mist made me feel cheerless.

Albert kept ahead a little while for ptarmigan, but he gave it up again. When we had gone on about an hour and a quarter, or an-hour-and- a-half, the fog disappeared like magic, and all was sunshine below, about one thousand feet from the top I should say. Most provoking!--and yet one felt happy to see sunshine and daylight again.

The view, as one descends, overlooking _Invercauld_ and the wood which is called _Balloch Buie_, is most lovely. We saw some deer in the wood below. We rode on till after we passed the burn, and had nearly got to the wood. We came another way down, by a much rougher path; and then, from the road in the wood, we walked up to the _Falls of the Garbhalt_, which are beautiful. The rocks are very grand, and the view from the little bridge, and also from a seat a little lower down, is extremely pretty. We found our carriages in the road, and drove home by six o’clock.

We met Captain Gordon, and then Lord John Russell and Sir James Clark. They had come to look after us, and when we got home we found the two ladies at the door waiting most anxiously for us.

A “DRIVE” IN THE BALLOCH BUIE.

_September 18, 1848._

At a quarter-past ten o’clock we set off in a postchaise with Bertie, and drove beyond the house of Mr. Farquharson’s keeper in the _Balloch Buie_. We then mounted our ponies, Bertie riding Grant’s pony on the deer-saddle, and being led by a gillie, Grant walking by his side. Macdonald and several gillies were with us, and we were preceded by Bowman and old Arthur Farquharson, a deer-stalker of Invercauld’s. They took us up a beautiful path winding through the trees and heather in the _Balloch Buie_; but when we had got about a mile or more they discovered deer. A “council of war” was held in a whisper, and we turned back and went the whole way down again, and rode along to the keeper’s lodge, where we turned up the glen immediately below _Craig Daign_, through a beautiful part of the wood, and went on along the track, till we came to the foot of the craig, where we all dismounted.

We scrambled up an almost perpendicular place to where there was a little _box_, made of hurdles and interwoven with branches of fir and heather, about five feet in height. There we seated ourselves with Bertie, Macdonald lying in the heather near us, watching and quite concealed; some had gone round to beat, and others again were at a little distance. We sat quite still, and sketched a little; I doing the landscape and some trees, Albert drawing Macdonald as he lay there. This lasted for nearly an hour, when Albert fancied he heard a distant sound, and, in a few minutes, Macdonald whispered that he saw stags, and that Albert should wait and take a steady aim. We then heard them coming past. Albert did not look over the box, but through it, and fired through the branches, and then again over the box. The deer retreated; but Albert felt certain he had hit a stag. He ran up to the keepers, and at that moment they called from below that they “had got him,” and Albert ran on to see. I waited for a bit; but soon scrambled on with Bertie and Macdonald’s help; and Albert joined me directly, and we all went down and saw a magnificent stag, “a royal,” which had dropped, soon after Albert had hit him, at one of the men’s feet. The sport was successful, and every one was delighted,--Macdonald and the keepers in particular;--the former saying, “that it was her Majesty’s coming out that had brought the good luck.” I was supposed to have “a lucky foot,” of which the Highlanders “think a great deal.” We walked down to the place we last came up, got into the carriage, and were home by half-past two o’clock.

The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach.

_August 30, 1849._

After writing our letters, we set off on our ponies, with Miss Dawson,[23] Macdonald, Grant, Batterbury, and Hamis Coutts; Hamis is Gaelic for James, and is pronounced “Hamish.” The road has been improved since last year, and though it is still very rough, there are no fords to pass, nor real difficulties any longer. We rode the whole way, and Albert only walked the last two miles. He took a Gaelic lesson during our ride, asking Macdonald, who speaks it with great purity, many words, and making him talk to Jemmie Coutts. Albert has already picked up many words: but it is a very difficult language, for it is pronounced in a totally different way from that in which it is written.

[23] Now Hon. Mrs. Parnell.

We arrived at our little “bothie” at two o’clock, and were amazed at the transformation. There are two huts, and to the one in which we live a wooden addition has been made. We have a charming little dining-room, sitting-room, bed-room, and dressing-room, all _en suite_; and there is a little room where Caroline Dawson (the Maid of Honour) sleeps, one for her maid, and a little pantry. In the other house, which is only a few yards distant, is the kitchen, where the people generally sit, a small room where the servants dine, and another, which is a sort of store-room, and a loft above in which the men sleep. Margaret French (my maid), Caroline’s maid, Löhlein[24] (Albert’s valet), a cook, Shackle[25] (a footman), and Macdonald, are the only people with us in the house, old John Gordon and his wife excepted. Our rooms are delightfully papered, the ceilings as well as walls, and very nicely furnished. We lunched as soon as we arrived, and at three walked down (about twenty minutes’ walk) to the loch called “Muich;” which some say means “darkness” or “sorrow.” Here we found a large boat, into which we all got, and Macdonald, Duncan, Grant, and Coutts rowed; old John Gordon and two others going in another boat with the net. They rowed up to the head of the loch, to where the _Muich_ runs down out of the _Dhu Loch_, which is on the other side.

[24] This faithful and trusty valet nursed his dear master most devotedly through his sad illness in December, 1861, and is now always with me as my personal groom of the chambers or valet. I gave him a house near Windsor Castle, where he resides when the Court are there. He is a native of Coburg. His father has been for fifty years Förster at Fülbach, close to Coburg.

[25] Who was very active and efficient. He is now a Page.

The scenery is beautiful here, so wild and grand,--real severe Highland scenery, with trees in the hollow. We had various scrambles in and out of the boat and along the shore, and saw three hawks, and caught seventy trout. I wish an artist could have been there to sketch the scene; it was so picturesque--the boat, the net, and the people in their kilts in the water, and on the shore. In going back, Albert rowed and Macdonald steered; and the lights were beautiful.

We came home at a quarter-past seven. At eight we dined; Löhlein, Macdonald, and Shackle waiting on us.

After dinner we played with Caroline Dawson at whist with dummy, and afterwards walked round the little garden. The silence and solitude, only interrupted by the waving of the fir-trees, were very solemn and striking.

A BEAT IN THE ABERGELDIE WOODS.

_September 3, 1849._

At a quarter-past eleven we drove (the three gentlemen going in another carriage) to the road along which we went with Lord Portman the other day, and up to a small path, where I mounted my pony, Albert and the others walking. We came to _Geannachoil_, and Albert was much pleased with the splendid view. The lights were most beautiful, but the heat was overpowering, and the sun burning

We turned to the right when out on the moors, where I got off and walked; and we seated ourselves behind a large stone, no one but Macdonald with us, who loaded the guns, and gave notice when anything was to be seen, as he lay upon the ground. The gentlemen were below in the road; the wood was beat, but nothing came, so we walked on and came down a beautiful thickly-wooded glen; and after a good deal of scrambling to get there, and to get up one side of the glen, we sat down again. We then scrambled over to the opposite side, where we again concealed ourselves; in this beat Albert shot a roe, and I think would have shot more had they not been turned back by the sudden appearance of an old woman who, looking like a witch, came along through the wood with two immense crutches, and disturbed the whole thing. Albert killed the roe just as she was coming along, and the shot startled her very much; she was told to come down, which she did, and sat below in the glen, motionless, having covered her head with her handkerchief. When two of the beaters came down and were told to take up the roe, they first saw the old woman, and started, and stared with horror--which was very amusing to see. I rode a little way afterwards, and then we seated ourselves behind a bush, in the rear of the wood, close to the distillery; but this beat brought nothing. Albert killed a young black cock before we came to the second beat. We were home at a quarter-past three o’clock.

VISIT TO THE DHU LOCH, &c.

_September 11, 1849._

The morning was very fine. I heard the children repeat some poetry in German, and then at ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro[26] in our carriage, and drove on beyond _Inch Bobbard_, changing horses near _Birkhall_, and stopping for a moment at the _Linn of Muich_; here we found the ponies, which we mounted, forded the river, and were almost immediately at the hut. We stopped there only for an instant, and remounted our ponies directly; Grant, Macdonald (who led my pony the whole time, and was extremely useful and attentive), Jemmie Coutts (leading Lady Douro’s pony), Charlie Coutts, and John Brown going with us: old John Gordon leading the way. It was half-past twelve when we began ascending the hill immediately behind the house, and proceeded along over the hills, to a great height, whence the view was very fine, quite overhanging the loch, and commanding an extensive view of _Glen Muich_ beyond on the opposite side. The road got worse and worse. It was particularly bad when we had to pass the _Burn of the Glassalt_, which falls into the loch, and was very full. There had been so much rain, that the burns and rivers were very full, and the ground quite soft. We rode over the _Strone_ _Hill_, the wind blowing dreadfully hard when we came to the top. Albert walked almost from the first, and shot a hare and a grouse; he put up a good many of them. We walked to a little hollow immediately above the _Dhu Loch_, and at half-past three seated ourselves there, and had some very welcome luncheon. The loch is only a mile in length, and very wild; the hills, which are very rocky and precipitous, rising perpendicularly from it.

[26] Now Duchess of Wellington.

In about half an hour we began our journey homewards. We came straight down beside the _Muich_, which falls in the most beautiful way over the rocks and stones in the glen. We rode down, and only had to get off to cross the _Glassalt_, which was an awkward ford to scramble over. The road was rough, but certainly far less soft and disagreeable than the one we came by. I rode “Lochnagar” at first, but changed him for Colonel Gordon’s pony, as I thought he took fright at the bogs; but Colonel Gordon’s was broken-winded, and struggled very much in the soft ground, which was very disagreeable.

We were only an hour coming down to the boat. The evening was very fine, but it blew very hard on the lake and the men could not pull, and I got so alarmed that I begged to land, and Lady Douro was of my opinion that it was much better to get out. We accordingly landed, and rode home along a sort of sheep-path on the side of the lake, which took us three-quarters of an hour. It was very rough and very narrow, for the hill rises abruptly from the lake; we had seven hundred feet above us, and I suppose one hundred feet below. However, we arrived at the hut quite safely at twenty minutes to seven, thankful to have got through all our difficulties and adventures, which are always very pleasant to look back upon.

We dined a little before eight with Lady Douro, and played two rubbers of whist with her.

Old John Gordon amused Albert by saying, in speaking of the bad road we had gone, “It’s something steep and something rough,” and “this is the only best,” meaning that it was _very_ bad,--which was a characteristic reply.

ASCENT OF BEN-NA-BHOURD.

_September 6, 1850._

At half-past ten o’clock we set off with Lady Douro and Ernest Leiningen,[27] and drove to _Invercauld_, about three-quarters of a mile beyond the house, where we found our people and ponies, together with Arthur Farquharson, Shewin, and others. We then walked a little way, after which we mounted our ponies and began the ascent towards _Ben-na-Bhourd_; Macdonald leading my pony, good little “Lochnagar,” and James Coutts Lady Douro’s. There is an excellent path, almost a narrow road, made up to within the last two miles and a half, which are very steep and rocky. The scenery is beautiful. We first rode up a glen (where a stone of the house in which Finla, the first of the Farquharsons, was born, is still shown,) through which the _Glassalt_ runs. Further on comes a very narrow, rocky, and precipitous glen, called the _Sluggan_, said to mean the “swallow,” or “swallowing.” Some little distance after this the country opens widely before you, with _Ben-na-Bhourd_ rising towards the left; and then you enter the _Forest of Mar_, which the Duke of Leeds rents from Lord Fife. There is a very pretty little shooting-box, called _Sluggan Cottage_, which is half way from _Invercauld_ to the top of _Ben-na-Bhourd_. Below this is the _Quoich_, which we forded. The last bit of the real road is a long steep ascent on the brow of a hill, the name of which means the “Tooth’s craig.” (Macdonald translated all the names for us.) The ascent, after the path ceases, is very stony; in fact, nothing but bare granite. Albert had walked a great deal, and we ladies got off after it became more uneven, and when we were no longer very far from the top. We came upon a number of “cairngorms,” which we all began picking up, and found some very pretty ones. At the top, which is perfectly flat, the ground is entirely composed of stones or wet swampy moss, and the granite seems to have stopped just a few feet below. We sat down at a cairn and had our luncheon. The wind was extremely cold, but whenever we got out of it, the air was very hot. The view from the top was magnificent and most extensive: _Ben-na-Bhourd_ is 3,940 feet high. We saw _Ben-y-Ghlo_ very clearly, _Cairngorm_ and _Ben Muich Dhui_ quite close but in another direction; the _Moray Firth_, and, through the glass, ships even could be seen; and on the other side rose _Loch-na-Gar_, still the jewel of all the mountains here.

[27] Our nephew.

After luncheon we began our downward progress, and walked the whole of the steep part till we reached the path; we came down very quickly, my pony making great haste, though he had half a mind to kick. Albert found some beautiful little rock crystals in the _Sluggan_, and walked the remainder of the way; we ladies left our horses about a quarter of a mile before we met the carriage. The whole distance from _Invercauld_ to the top of _Ben-na-Bhourd_ is nine miles, so we must have been at least 18 miles riding and walking. It has been a delightful expedition. It was six o’clock when we reached the carriage, and we were home at a little past seven.

THE GATHERING.

_September 12, 1850._

We lunched early, and then went at half-past two o’clock, with the children and all our party, except Lady Douro, to the Gathering at the _Castle of Braemar_, as we did last year. The Duffs, Farquharsons, the Leeds’s, and those staying with them, and Captain Forbes[28] and forty of his men who had come over from _Strath Don_, were there.[29] Some of our people were there also. There were the usual games of “putting the stone,” “throwing the hammer” and “caber,” and racing up the hill of _Craig Cheunnich_, which was accomplished in less than six minutes and a half; and we were all much pleased to see our gillie Duncan,[30] who is an active, good-looking, young man, win. He was far before the others the whole way. It is a fearful exertion. Mr. Farquharson brought him up to me afterwards. Eighteen or nineteen started, and it looked very pretty to see them run off in their different coloured kilts, with their white shirts (the jackets or doublets they take off for all the games), and scramble up through the wood, emerging gradually at the edge of it, and climbing the hill.

[28] Now Sir Charles Forbes, of Castle Newe.

[29] A work shortly to be published, entitled _Highlanders of Scotland_, by Kenneth Macleay, Esq., R.S.A., contains excellent portraits of some of the men of these and other of the principal Highland clans, as well as of the Retainers of the Royal Household.

[30] One of the keepers since 1851: an excellent, intelligent man, much liked by the Prince. He, like many others, spit blood after running the race up that steep hill in this short space of time, and he has never been so strong since. The running up hill has in consequence been discontinued. He lives in a cottage at the back of Craig Gowan (commanding a beautiful view) called Robrech, which the Prince built for him.

After this we went into the castle, and saw some dancing; the prettiest was a reel by Mr. Farquharson’s children and some other children, and the “Ghillie Callum” beautifully danced by John Athole Farquharson, the fourth son. The twelve children were all there, including the baby, who is two years old.

Mama, Charles, and Ernest joined us at _Braemar_. Mama enjoys it all very much: it is her first visit to _Scotland_. We left after the dancing.

SALMON LEISTERING.

_September 13, 1850._

We walked with Charles, the boys, and Vicky to the river side above the bridge, where all our tenants were assembled with poles and spears, or rather “leisters” for catching salmon. They all went into the river, walking up it, and then back again, poking about under all the stones to bring fish up to where the men stood with the net. It had a very pretty effect; about one hundred men wading through the river, some in kilts with poles and spears, all very much excited. Not succeeding the first time, we went higher up, and moved to three or four different places, but did not get any salmon; one or two escaping. Albert stood on a stone, and Colonel Gordon and Lord James Murray waded about the whole time. Duncan, in spite of all his exertions yesterday, and having besides walked to and from the Gathering, was the whole time in the water. Not far from the laundry there was another trial, and here we had a great fright. In one place there was a very deep pool, into which two men very foolishly went, and one could not swim; we suddenly saw them sink, and in one moment they seemed drowning, though surrounded by people. There was a cry for help, and a general rush, including Albert, towards the spot, which frightened me so much, that I grasped Lord Carlisle’s arm in great agony. However, Dr. Robertson[31] swam in and pulled the man out, and all was safely over; but it was a horrid moment.

[31] The gentleman who has had from the beginning the entire management of our property at Balmoral, &c. He is highly esteemed, and is a most amiable man, who has carried out all the Prince’s and my wishes admirably.

A salmon was speared here by one of the men; after which we walked to the ford, or quarry, where we were very successful, seven salmon being caught, some in the net, and some speared. Though Albert stood in the water some time he caught nothing: but the scene at this beautiful spot was exciting and picturesque in the extreme. I wished for Landseer’s pencil. The sun was intensely hot. We did not get back till after three o’clock, and then took luncheon. The Duchess of Gordon came to see us afterwards; and while she was still with us, Captain Forbes (who had asked permission to do so) marched through the grounds with his men, the pipers going in front. They stopped, and cheered three-times-three, throwing up their bonnets. They then marched off; and we listened with pleasure to the distant shouts and the sound of the pibroch.

We heard afterwards that our men had carried all Captain Forbes’s men on their backs through the river. They saw the fishing going on, and came to the water’s edge on the opposite side; and on being greeted by our people, said they would come over, on which ours went across in one moment and carried them over--Macdonald at their head carrying Captain Forbes on his back. This was very courteous, and worthy of chivalrous times.

LOCH MUICH.

_September 16, 1850._

We reached the hut at three o’clock. At half-past four we walked down to the loch, and got into the boat with our people: Duncan, J. Brown,[32] P. Coutts,[33] and Leys rowing. They rowed mostly towards the opposite side, which is very fine indeed, and deeply furrowed by the torrents, which form glens and corries where birch and alder trees grow close to the water’s edge. We landed on a sandy spot below a fine glen, through which flows the _Black Burn_. It was very dry here; but still very picturesque, with alder-trees and mountain-ash in full fruit overhanging it. We afterwards landed at our usual place at the head of the loch, which is magnificent; and rode back. A new road has been made, and an excellent one it is, winding along above the lake.