Part 5

We got back to the “Fairy” by half-past two, and returned to _Greenock_, escorted by nineteen steamers. Steamed past _Greenock_, and went on towards _Loch Long_, passing _Roseneath_ to the right, where the present Duke and Duchess of Argyll live. _Loch Long_ is indeed splendid, 15 miles in length, surrounded by grand hills, with such beautiful outlines, and very green--all so different from the eastern part of _Scotland_--the loch winding along most beautifully, so as to seem closed at times. Charles said it reminded him of _Switzerland_ and the _Tyrol_. The finest point of _Loch Long_ is looking towards _Loch Goil_. We had a very good sight of the mountain called _The Cobbler_; the top of which resembles a man sitting and mending his shoe! At the end of the loch we got a glimpse of _Ben Lomond_, and were, in fact, very near _Loch Lomond_.

We returned as we came. There was no sun, and once or twice a little mist; but still it was beautiful. We went on to _Rothsay_, which we reached at eight o’clock, and immediately went on board the “Victoria and Albert,” greatly tired but much amused and interested.

The children enjoy everything extremely, and bear the novelty and excitement wonderfully. The people cheered the “Duke of Rothsay”[19] very much, and also called for a cheer for the “Princess of Great Britain.” Everywhere the good Highlanders are very enthusiastic. _Rothsay_ is a pretty little town, built round a fine bay, with hills in the distance, and a fine harbour. When we went on deck after dinner, we found the whole town brilliantly illuminated, with every window lit up, which had a very pretty effect.

[19] A title belonging to the eldest son of the Sovereign of Scotland, and therefore held by the Prince of Wales as eldest son of the Queen, the representative of the ancient Kings of Scotland.

_Wednesday, August 18._

A bright fresh morning, the hills slightly tipped with clouds. At eight o’clock we all went on board the “Fairy,” and went up the _Kyles of Bute_, which, as you advance, become very fine, the hills lying so curiously one behind the other, sometimes apparently closing up all outlet.

We saw _Arran_ to the left, looking very grand in the distance. We have been turning about a good deal since yesterday, for we went by _Arran_ and _Holy Island_, and then left _Little_ and _Great Cumbray_ to our left, and went up to _Dumbarton_ and back, and on to _Loch Long_, and then to _Rothsay_, leaving _Arran_ to our left; then, after passing _Arran_, we entered _Loch Fyne_. I, however, had a headache, and was obliged to lie down below, and only came on deck again when we were within an hour of _Inverary_; where the lake widens, and the hills on either side are very green and undulating, but not very high.

The approach to _Inverary_ is splendid; the loch is very wide; straight before you a fine range of mountains splendidly lit up,--green, pink, and lilac; to the left the little town of _Inverary_; and above it, surrounded by pine woods, stands the Castle of _Inverary_, square, with turrets at the corners.

Our reception was in the true Highland fashion. The Duke and Duchess of Argyll (dear Lady Elizabeth Leveson Gower), the Duchess of Sutherland, Lord Stafford, Lady Caroline Leveson Gower, and the Blantyres received us at the landing-place, which was all ornamented with heather. The Celtic Society, including Campbell of Islay, his two sons (one grown up and the other a very pretty little boy), with a number of his men, and several other Campbells, were all drawn up near to the carriage. We got into a carriage with the two Duchesses, Charles and the Duke being on the box (we had left the children on board the “Fairy”), and took a beautiful drive amongst magnificent trees, and along a glen where we saw _Ben Sheerar_, &c. The weather was particularly fine, and we were much struck by the extreme beauty of _Inverary_--presenting as it does such a combination of magnificent timber, with high mountains, and a noble lake.

The pipers walked before the carriage, and the Highlanders on either side, as we approached the house. Outside stood the Marquis of Lorn, just two years old, a dear, white, fat, fair little fellow with reddish hair, but very delicate features, like both his father and mother: he is such a merry, independent little child. He had a black velvet dress and jacket, with a “sporran,” scarf, and Highland bonnet. We lunched at two with our hosts; the Highland gentlemen standing with halberds in the room. We sent for our children, who arrived during luncheon time. We left _Inverary_ before three, and took the children with us in the carriage. The Argylls, the Duchess of Sutherland, and the others, accompanied us on board the “Fairy,” where we took leave of them.

The light on the hills was beautiful as we steamed down _Loch Fyne_. At five we reached _Lochgilp_, and all landed at _Lochgilphead_, a small village where there were numbers of people, and, amongst others, Sir John P. Orde, who lent his carriage and was extremely civil. We and our people drove through the little village to the _Crinan Canal_, where we entered a most magnificently decorated barge, drawn by three horses, ridden by postilions in scarlet. We glided along very smoothly, and the views of the hills--the range of _Cruachan_--were very fine indeed; but the eleven locks we had to go through--(a very curious process, first passing several by rising, and then others by going down)--were tedious, and instead of the passage lasting one hour-and-a-half, it lasted upwards of two hours and a half, therefore it was nearly eight o’clock before we reached _Loch Crinan_. We instantly went on board the “Victoria and Albert,” but it was too late to proceed to _Oban_; we had, therefore, to lengthen our voyage by a day, and spent the night at _Crinan_. It is a very fine spot, hills all round, and, in the distance, those of the island of _Jura_. The yacht had had a good passage round the _Mull of Cantire_. We dined with Charles, and went on deck; and the blaze of the numerous bonfires--the half moon, the stars, and the extreme stillness of the night--had a charming effect.

_Thursday, August 19._

A beautiful day. At nine o’clock we left _Crinan_, proceeding to the right, up splendid passes, with myriads of islands, and such enchanting views, that I cannot enumerate them. We passed first up the _Sound of Jura_, where numbers of people met us in small boats, decorated with little flags; then up the _Pass of Kerrera_ to _Oban_, one of the finest spots we have seen, with the ruins of the old _Castle of Dunolly_ and a range of high mountains in the distance. To the left, after leaving _Oban_, we saw the _Isle of Kerrera_, and to the right _Dunstaffnage Castle_, whence came the famous stone which supports the “Coronation Chair,” in which the sovereigns are crowned at _Westminster Abbey_. Alexander II. is said to be buried here. We passed close by the flat rock, called _The Lady’s Rock_, on which a McLean left his wife, hoping she would be washed away--she was saved however.

We then came into the _Sound of Mull_ by _Tobermory_, a small place prettily situated, and from thence the views continued beautiful. At one o’clock we were in sight of the _Isles of Rum_, _Eig_ and _Muck_ (rather large islands, which Lord Salisbury bought a few years ago). Next we passed the long, flat, curious islands of _Coll_ and _Tiree_. The inhabitants of these islands have, unhappily, been terrible sufferers during the last winter from famine. A little further on we saw, to our right, the _Treshinish Isles_, very curiously-shaped rocks: one is called _The Dutchman’s Cap_, and has the most strange shape, thus--

At three we anchored close before _Staffa_, and immediately got into the barge with Charles, the children, and the rest of our people, and rowed towards the cave. As we rounded the point, the wonderful basaltic formation came in sight. The appearance it presents is most extraordinary; and when we turned the corner to go into the renowned _Fingal’s Cave_, the effect was splendid, like a great entrance into a vaulted hall: it looked almost awful as we entered, and the barge heaved up and down on the swell of the sea. It is very high, but not longer than 227 feet, and narrower than I expected, being only 40 feet wide. The sea is immensely deep in the cave. The rocks, under water, were all colours--pink, blue, and green--which had a most beautiful and varied effect. It was the first time the British standard with a Queen of Great Britain, and her husband and children, had ever entered _Fingal’s Cave_, and the men gave three cheers, which sounded very impressive there. We backed out, and then went on a little further to look at the other cave, not of basaltic formation, and at the point called _The Herdsman_. The swell was beginning to get up, and perhaps an hour later we could not have gone in.

We returned to the yacht, but Albert and Charles landed again at _Staffa_. They returned in three-quarters of an hour, and we then went on to _Iona_; here Albert and Charles landed, and were absent an hour. I and the ladies sketched. We saw from the yacht the ruins of the old cathedral of _St. Oran_. When Albert and Charles returned, they said the ruins were very curious, there had been two monasteries there, and fine old crosses and tombs of ancient kings were still to be seen. I must see it some other time. On Albert’s return we went on again, and reached _Tobermory_ at nine. The place was all illuminated.

_Friday, August 20._

A wet morning when we rose at half-past seven, and it was pouring with rain when we left _Tobermory_ at half-past eight. I went down, and drew and painted. It cleared up about half-past ten, and I came on deck. The scenery in _Loch Linnhe_ was magnificent--such beautiful mountains. From _Loch Linnhe_ we entered _Loch Eil_, and passed the entrance of _Loch Leven_ to the right, at the end of which is _Glencoe_, so famous for its beautiful scenery and for the horrible massacre of the Macdonalds, in William III.’s time.

A little before one we arrived at _Fort William_, a very small place. The afternoon was very bright, and the scenery fine. After luncheon Albert and Charles set off in the “Fairy” to see _Glencoe_. They returned at twenty minutes past seven, and Albert thought _Glencoe_ was very fine, though not quite as much so as he had expected. They had driven in an extraordinary carriage, with seats for thirty. The people, who recognized Albert, were so loyal that they took the horses out and insisted on drawing the carriage.

The evening was excessively cold and showery.

I am quite sorry we shall have to leave our yacht to-morrow, in which we have been so comfortably housed, and that this delightful voyage and tour among the Western Lochs and Isles is at an end--they are so beautiful,--and so full of poetry and romance, traditions, and historical associations.

_Ardverikie, Loch Laggan, Saturday, August 21._

Alas! a very wet morning. We were ready long before nine o’clock, but had to wait, as our carriages were not ready. At last we all landed at _Fort William_, where there was a great gathering of Highlanders, in their different tartans, with Lord Lovat and Mr. Stuart Mackenzie at their head. We got into our carriage with Charles and the two children; there was a great crowd to see us off. We went by a very wild and lonely road, the latter part extremely fine, with mountains and streams that reminded us of _Glen Tilt_. We changed horses only once, and came at length in sight of _Loch Laggan_. It is a beautiful lake (small in comparison to what we have seen) surrounded by very fine mountains: the road by its side is extremely pretty. We saw Lord Abercorn’s house of _Ardverikie_ long before we came to it. At _Laggan_ there is only a small inn, and at the end of the lake, a ferry. Here, in spite of the pouring rain, were assembled a number of Highlanders, with Macpherson of Cluny (always called Cluny Macpherson) and three dear little boys of his, Davidson of Tulloch, and others, with Lord Abercorn, in full Highland dress. We stepped out of our carriage and stood upon the floating bridge, and so crossed over in two or three minutes. We then drove on, in our pony carriages, to _Ardverikie_, and arrived there in about twenty minutes. It is quite close to the lake, and the view from the windows, as I now write, though obscured by rain, is very beautiful, and extremely wild. There is not a village, house, or cottage within four or five miles: one can only get to it by the ferry, or by rowing across the lake. The house is a comfortable shooting-lodge, built of stone, with many nice rooms in it. Stags’ horns are placed along the outside and in the passages; and the walls of the drawing-room and ante-room are ornamented with beautiful drawings of stags, by Landseer.

There is little to say of our stay at _Ardverikie_; the country is very fine, but the weather was most dreadful.

On the 28th, about five o’clock, Albert drove me out across the ferry, along the _Kingussie_ road, and from here the scenery was splendid: high bold hills, with a good deal of wood; glens, with the _Pattock_, and a small waterfall; the meadows here and there, with people making hay, and cottages sprinkled sparingly about, reminded us much of _Thüringen_. We drove to the small farm, where Colonel Macpherson now lives, called _Strathmashie_, and back again, 16 miles in all. We were delighted with the scenery, which is singularly beautiful, wild and romantic,--with so much fine wood about it, which greatly enhances the beauty of a landscape.

_Thursday, September 16._

Albert left at six this morning to go to _Inverness_ and see the _Caledonian Canal_.

_Friday, September 17._

At two o’clock I left _Ardverikie_ with the children, and reached _Fort William_ at half-past six, where I had the happiness of finding Albert on board the yacht. All had gone off well; but the weather had been very bad. Albert said _Dochfour_ beautiful; the house new and very elegant, with a fine garden, and Mr. and Lady Georgiana Baillie very pleasant people.

Albert had to go to _Inverness_, and to stay for a ball that was held there; and he was everywhere extremely well received. This morning he saw the _Falls of Foyers_, which, he tells me, are very grand indeed; and of a great height; and he says that the _Caledonian Canal_ is a most remarkable work.

_Loch Ryan, Saturday, September 18._

At five o’clock we left _Fort William_. Rather a fine morning; but very squally, and the sea rough, even where we were. When we came on deck, we were close to the _Isle of Jura_, which has such a fine, bold outline. We went on to _Loch Crinan_, where we got into the barge: here it was very rough and pouring with rain, so unlike the beautiful evening when we were here a month ago. We landed at _Crinan_. Mr. Malcolm, whose castle is just opposite, received us there, and we entered the canal boat at ten. We proceeded more quickly than the last time; the people kept running along as before, and there was a piper at each lock. It rained almost the whole time. We reached _Lochgilphead_ at twelve, in pouring rain, and embarked on board the “Black Eagle.” The yacht had again to go round the _Mull of Cantire_ and meet us at _Campbeltown_. What a contrast to the weather we had when we came!

We got under weigh, and proceeded by _Kilbrannan Sound_ and _Arran_. We went on deck for a little while, but were driven below by the rain; later, however, it was possible to keep on deck. We reached _Campbeltown_, a small and not pretty place, at the foot of _Cantire_, at twenty minutes to five. About half an hour after we arrived the yacht came in, with the “Garland,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge,” and we immediately went on board. They had had a very bad passage, and Captain Crispin said he was very glad that we had not been on board the “Victoria and Albert.” This rather alarmed us for the next day’s voyage, the more so as the evening was squally and the sky very unpromising. There was a long consultation as to what was to be done, and at last it was decided that we should start at four in the morning, and if it were very rough, we should either run into _Loch Ryan_, the _Mull of Galloway_, the _Bay of Ramsay_, or into _Douglas_ in the _Isle of Man_.

_Loch Ryan, Sunday, September 19._

We set off at four o’clock, the yacht rolling considerably; but it was quite bearable; however, at seven they came to shut down the port-holes, expecting a heavy sea, and Lord Adolphus saw Albert, who had just got up, and said it would be very rough; upon which it was decided to put back a little way, and to go into _Loch Ryan_; we accordingly did so, and anchored there at half-past eight;--such a dreary rainy day--one could hardly recognize what was so fine when we were last in here.

Both now, and the time before when we were in _Loch Ryan_, Lord Orkney very civilly sent us game and all sorts of things.

At twelve o’clock Lord Adolphus read the short sea-service. We then talked over our voyage, and what could be done;--the day was very wretched,--pouring with rain and blowing hard. It was at last decided to start again at three, and get this evening to the _Mull of Galloway_, which would only take us three hours, though it would probably be rough. As soon as we were out of the loch the yacht began to pitch, and the sea was dreadfully rough. I was very ill. Albert, however, stood it perfectly, and the children very tolerably. Presently we came in sight of the _Mull of Galloway_, a great rock with a lighthouse on it;--and this was our last glimpse of dear _Scotland_.

_Monday, September 20._

At six o’clock we got under weigh, and after considerable “rockings,” which lasted for nearly two hours, we were near the _Isle of Man_, in smooth water, and at half-past eight anchored in _Ramsay Bay_.

Albert went on shore, and meantime the Bishop of Sodor and Man, with others, came on board. Albert returned at twelve. At one o’clock we started again. We had to go slowly at first, as our paddle-wheel again got wrong, and because we should otherwise have arrived before we were expected.

We anchored at seven in _Fleetwood Harbour_; the entrance was extremely narrow and difficult. We were lashed close to the pier, to prevent our being turned by the tide; and when I went on deck there was a great commotion, such running and calling, and pulling of ropes, &c. It was a cheerless evening, blowing hard.

_Tuesday, September 21._

At ten o’clock we landed, and proceeded by rail to _London_.

_LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS_,

1848 TO 1861.

Land of brown heath and shaggy wood, Land of the mountain and the flood, Land of my sires! what mortal hand Can e’er untie the filial band That knits me to thy rugged strand! Still, as I view each well-known scene, Think what is now, and what hath been, Seems as, to me, of all bereft, Sole friends thy woods and streams are left; And thus I love them better still, Even in extremity of ill.

_The Lay of the Last Minstrel._

FIRST IMPRESSIONS OF BALMORAL.

_Balmoral, Friday, September 8, 1848._

We arrived at _Balmoral_ at a quarter to three. It is a pretty little castle in the old Scottish style. There is a picturesque tower and garden in front, with a high wooded hill; at the back there is wood down to the _Dee_; and the hills rise all around.

There is a nice little hall, with a billiard-room; next to it is the dining-room. Upstairs (ascending by a good broad staircase) immediately to the right, and above the dining-room, is our sitting-room (formerly the drawing-room), a fine large room--next to which is our bed-room, opening into a little dressing-room which is Albert’s. Opposite, down a few steps, are the children’s and Miss Hildyard’s three rooms. The ladies live below, and the gentlemen upstairs.

We lunched almost immediately, and at half-past four we walked out, and went up to the top of the wooded hill opposite our windows, where there is a cairn, and up which there is a pretty winding path. The view from here, looking down upon the house, is charming. To the left you look towards the beautiful hills surrounding _Loch-na-Gar_, and to the right, towards _Ballater_, to the glen (or valley) along which the _Dee_ winds, with beautiful wooded hills, which reminded us very much of the _Thüringerwald_. It was so calm, and so solitary, it did one good as one gazed around; and the pure mountain air was most refreshing. All seemed to breathe freedom and peace, and to make one forget the world and its sad turmoils.

The scenery is wild, and yet not desolate; and everything looks much more prosperous and cultivated than at _Laggan_. Then the soil is delightfully dry. We walked beside the _Dee_, a beautiful, rapid stream, which is close behind the house. The view of the hills towards _Invercauld_ is exceedingly fine.

When I came in at half-past six, Albert went out to try his luck with some stags which lay quite close in the woods, but he was unsuccessful. They come down of an evening quite near to the house.

FIRST ASCENT OF LOCH-NA-GAR.

_Saturday, September 16, 1848._

At half-past nine o’clock Albert and I set off in a postchaise, and drove to the bridge in the wood of _Balloch Buie_, about five miles from _Balmoral_, where our ponies and people were. Here we mounted, and were attended by a keeper of Mr. Farquharson’s as guide, Macdonald[20]--who, with his shooting-jacket, and in his kilt, looked a picture--Grant[21] on a pony, with our luncheon in two baskets, and Batterbury[22] on another pony. We went through that beautiful wood for about a mile, and then turned and began to ascend gradually, the view getting finer and finer; no road, but not bad ground--moss, heather, and stones. Albert saw some deer when we had been out about three-quarters of an hour, and ran off to stalk them, while I rested; but he arrived just a minute too late. He waited for me on the other side of a stony little burn, which I crossed on my pony, after our faithful Highlanders had moved some stones and made it easier. We then went on a little way, and I got off and walked a bit, and afterwards remounted; Macdonald leading my pony. The view of _Ben-na-Bhourd_, and indeed of all around, was very beautiful; but as we rose higher we saw mist over _Loch-na-Gar_. Albert left me to go after ptarmigan, and went on with Grant, while the others remained with me, taking the greatest care of me. Macdonald is a good honest man, and was indefatigable, and poor Batterbury was very anxious also.

[20] A Jäger of the Prince’s, who came from Fort Augustus in the west: he was remarkably tall and handsome. The poor man died of consumption at Windsor, in May, 1860. His eldest son was Attaché to the British Legation in Japan. He died in 1866. The third son, Archie, is Jäger to the Prince of Wales, and was for a year with the beloved Prince.

[21] Head-keeper. He had been nearly twenty years with Sir Robert Gordon, nine as keeper; he was born in Braemar, in the year 1810. He is an excellent man, most trustworthy, of singular shrewdness and discretion, and most devotedly attached to the Prince and myself. He has a fine intelligent countenance. The Prince was very fond of him. He has six sons,--the second, Alick, is wardrobe-man to our son Leopold: all are good, well-disposed lads, and getting on well in their different occupations. His mother, a fine, hale, old woman of eighty years, “stops” in a small cottage which the Prince built for her in our village. He, himself, lives in a pretty Lodge called Croft, a mile from Balmoral, which the Prince built for him.

[22] A groom (now dead some years) who followed me in his ordinary dress, with thin boots and gaiters, and seemed anything but happy. He hardly ever attended me after this.