Part 4

At nine o’clock we set off on ponies, to go up one of the hills, Albert riding the dun pony and I the grey, attended only by Lord Glenlyon’s excellent servant, Sandy McAra, in his Highland dress. We went out by the back way across the road, and to the left through the ford, Sandy leading my pony and Albert following closely, the water reaching up above Sandy’s knees. We then went up the hill of _Tulloch_, first straight up a very steep cabbage-field, and then in a zigzag manner round, till we got up to the top; the ponies scrambling up over stones and everything, and never making a false step; and the view all round being splendid and most beautifully lit up. We went up to the very highest top, which cannot be seen from the house or from below; and from here the view is like a panorama: you see the _Falls of the Bruar_, _Ben-y-Chat_, _Ben Vrackie_, _Ben-y-Ghlo_, the _Killiecrankie Pass_, and a whole range of distant hills on the other side, which one cannot at all see from below. In the direction of _Taymouth_ you also see _Dalnacardoch_, the first stage from _Blair_. _Blair_ itself and the houses in the village looked like little toys from the great height we were on. It was quite romantic. Here we were with only this Highlander behind us holding the ponies (for we got off twice and walked about)--not a house, not a creature near us, but the pretty Highland sheep, with their horns and black faces,--up at the top of _Tulloch_, surrounded by beautiful mountains.

We came back the same way that we went, and stopped at the ford to let the ponies drink before we rode through. We walked from inside the gate, and came home at half-past eleven,--the most delightful, most romantic ride and walk I ever had. I had never been up such a mountain, and then the day was so fine. The hill of _Tulloch_ is covered with grass, and is so delightfully soft to walk upon.

_Thursday, September 19._

Albert set off, immediately after luncheon, deer-stalking, and I was to follow and wait below in order to see the deer driven down. At four o’clock I set off with Lady Glenlyon and Lady Canning, Mr. Oswald and Lord Charles Wellesley riding, by the lower _Glen Tilt_ drive. We stopped at the end; but were still in the wood; Sandy was looking out and watching. After waiting we were allowed to come out of the carriage, and came upon the road, where we saw some deer on the brow of the hill. We sat down on the ground, Lady Canning and I sketching, and Sandy and Mr. Oswald, both in Highland costume, (the same that they all wear here, viz. a grey cloth jacket and waistcoat, with a kilt and a Highland bonnet,) lying on the grass and looking through glasses. After waiting again some time, we were told in a mysterious whisper that “they were coming,” and indeed a great herd _did_ appear on the brow of the hill, and came running down a good way, when most provokingly two men who were walking on the road--which they had no business to have done--suddenly came in sight, and then the herd all ran back again and the sport was spoilt. After waiting some little while we observed Albert, Lord Glenlyon, and the keepers on the brow of the hill, and we got into the carriage, drove a little way, went over the bridge, where there is a shepherd’s “shiel,” and got out and waited for them to join us, which they did almost immediately,--looking very picturesque with their rifles. My poor Albert had not even fired one shot for fear of spoiling the whole thing, but had been running about a good deal. The group of keepers and dogs was very pretty. After talking and waiting a little while, we walked some way on, and then Albert drove home with us.

_Saturday, September 21._

After breakfast Albert saw Lord Glenlyon, who proposed that he should go deer-stalking and that I should follow him. At twenty minutes to eleven we drove off with Lady Canning for _Glen Tilt_. The day was glorious and it would have been a pity to lose it, but it was a long hard day’s work, though extremely delightful and enjoyable, and unlike anything I had ever done before. I should have enjoyed it still more had I been able to be with Albert the whole time.

We drove nearly to Peter Fraser’s house, which is between the _Marble Lodge_ and _Forest Lodge_. Here Albert and I walked about a little, and then Lady Canning and we mounted our ponies and set off on our journey, Lord Glenlyon leading my pony the whole way, Peter Fraser, the head-keeper (a wonderfully active man) leading the way; Sandy and six other Highlanders carrying rifles and leading dogs, and the rear brought up by two ponies with our luncheon-box. Lawley,[16] Albert’s Jäger, was also there, carrying one of Albert’s rifles; the other Albert slung over his right shoulder, to relieve Lawley. So we set off and wound round and round the hill, which had the most picturesque effect imaginable. Such a splendid view all round, finer and more extensive the higher we went! The day was delightful; but the sun very hot. We saw the highest point of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, which one cannot see from below, and the distant range of hills we had seen from _Tulloch_ was beautifully softened by the slightest haze. We saw _Loch Vach_. The road was very good, and as we ascended we had to speak in a whisper, as indeed we did almost all day, for fear of coming upon deer unawares. The wind was, however, right, which is everything here for the deer. I wish we could have had Landseer with us to sketch our party, with the background, it was so pretty, as were also the various “halts,” &c. If I only had had time to sketch them!

[16] A very good man. His health obliged him to give up being a Jäger in 1848; he was then appointed a Page, in which position he continued till he died, in November, 1865.

We stopped at the top of the _Ghrianan_, whence you look down an immense height. It is here that the eagles sometimes sit. Albert got off and looked about in great admiration, and walked on a little, and then remounted his pony. We then went nearly to the top of _Cairn Chlamain_, and here we separated, Albert going off with Peter, Lawley, and two other keepers, to get a “quiet shot” as they call it; and Lady Canning, Lord Glenlyon, and I went up quite to the top, which is deep in moss.

Here we sat down and stayed some time sketching the ponies below; Lord Glenlyon and Sandy remaining near us. The view was quite beautiful, nothing but mountains all around us, and the solitude, the complete solitude, very impressive. We saw the range of _Mar Forest_, and the inner range to the left, receding from us, as we sat facing the hill, called _Scarsach_, where the counties of _Perth_, _Aberdeen_, and _Inverness_ join. My pony was brought up for me, and we then descended this highest pinnacle, and proceeded on a level to meet Albert, whom I descried coming towards us. We met him shortly after; he had had bad luck, I am sorry to say. We then sat down on the grass and had some luncheon; then I walked a little with Albert and we got on our ponies. As we went on towards home some deer were seen in _Glen Chroine_, which is called the “Sanctum;” where it is supposed that there are a great many. Albert went off soon after this, and we remained on _Sron a Chro_, for an hour, I am sure, as Lord Glenlyon said by so doing we should turn the deer to Albert, whereas if we went on we should disturb and spoil the whole thing. So we submitted. Albert looked like a little speck creeping about on an opposite hill. We saw four herds of deer, two of them close to us. It was a beautiful sight.

Meanwhile I saw the sun sinking gradually, and I got quite alarmed lest we should be benighted, and we called anxiously for Sandy, who had gone away for a moment, to give a signal to come back. We then began our descent, “squinting” the hill, the ponies going as safely and securely as possible. As the sun went down the scenery became more and more beautiful, the sky crimson, golden-red and blue, and the hills looking purple and lilac, most exquisite, till at length it set, and the hues grew softer in the sky and the outlines of the hills sharper. I never saw anything so fine. It soon, however, grew very dark.

At length Albert met us, and he told me he had waited all the time for us, as he knew how anxious I should be. He had been very unlucky, and had lost his sport, for the rifle would not go off just when he could have shot some fine harts; yet he was as merry and cheerful as if nothing had happened to disappoint him. We got down quite safely to the bridge; our ponies going most surely, though it was quite dusk when we were at the bottom of the hill. We walked to the _Marble Lodge_, and then got into the pony carriage and drove home by very bright moonlight, which made everything look very lovely; but the road made one a little nervous.

We saw a flight of ptarmigan, with their white wings, on the top of _Sron a Chro_, also plovers, grouse, and pheasants. We were safely home by a quarter to eight.

_Tuesday, October 1._

At a quarter-past eight o’clock we started, and were very very sorry to leave _Blair_ and the dear _Highlands_! Every little trifle and every spot I had become attached to; our life of quiet and liberty, everything was so pleasant, and all the Highlanders and people who went with us I had got to like so much. Oh! the dear hills, it made me very sad to leave them behind!

Lord Glenlyon rode with us, and we went back exactly the same road we came; through _Killiecrankie_, _Pitlochrie_, saw _Logierait_, &c. The battle of _Killiecrankie_ was fought in a field to your left, as you come from _Blair_ and before you come to the pass; and Lord Dundee was shot in a garden immediately above the field at _Urrard_ (formerly called _Rinrory_) which belongs to Mr. Stewart of _Urrard_; the Stewarts of _Urrard_ used formerly to live on _Craig Urrard_. We reached _Dunkeld_ at half-past eleven. Mr. Oswald and Mr. Patrick Small Keir, with a detachment of Highlanders, were there. We drove up to the door of the cottage at _Dunkeld_ and got out there. It is beautifully situated and the cottage is very pretty, with a good view of the river from the windows. _Craig-y-Barns_ is a fine rocky hill to the left as you drive from _Blair_.

We walked to look at the beginning of the new house which the late Duke of Athole commenced, but which has been left unfinished, and also at a beautiful larch-tree, the first that was brought to _Scotland_. I rode back on “Arghait Bhean”[17] for the last time, and took a sad leave of him and of faithful Sandy McAra. We walked into the ruins of the old cathedral and into that part which the late Duke fitted up for service, and where there is a fine monument of him. I should never have recognized the grounds of _Dunkeld_, so different did they look without the encampment.[18] Beautiful as _Dunkeld_ is, it does not approach the beauty and wildness of _Blair_.

[17] This pony was given to me by the Duke of Athole in 1847, and is now alive at Osborne.

[18] _Vide_ page 14.

After twelve o’clock we set off again, and to our astonishment Lord Glenlyon insisted upon riding on with us to _Dundee_, which is 50 miles from _Blair_! Captain J. Murray also rode with us from _Dunkeld_. It made me feel sad to see the country becoming flatter and flatter. There was a great crowd at _Cupar Angus_, and at _Dundee_ a still larger one, and on the pier the crush was very great.

We took leave of Lord Glenlyon with real regret, and he seemed quite unhappy at our going. No one could be more zealous or kinder than he was.

There was a fearful swell when we went in the barge to the yacht.

_Thursday, October 3._

The English coast appeared terribly flat. Lord Aberdeen was quite touched when I told him I was so attached to the dear, dear _Highlands_ and missed the fine hills so much. There is a great peculiarity about the _Highlands_ and Highlanders; and they are such a chivalrous, fine, active people. Our stay among them was so delightful. Independently of the beautiful scenery, there was a quiet, a retirement, a wildness, a liberty, and a solitude that had such a charm for us.

The day had cleared up and was bright, but the air very heavy and thick, quite different from the mountain air, which was so pure, light, and brisk. At two o’clock we reached _Woolwich_, and shortly after disembarked. We proceeded straight to the railroad, and arrived at _Windsor Castle_ at a few minutes past four.

TOUR ROUND THE WEST COAST OF SCOTLAND, AND VISIT TO ARDVERIKIE.

_Wednesday, August 11, 1847._

We proceeded from the _Osborne Pier_ on board the yacht. Our two eldest children, my brother Charles, the Duke and Duchess of Norfolk, Lord Grey (Secretary of State), Lady Jocelyn, General Wemyss, Sir James Clark, and Miss Hildyard, accompanied us.

We have with us the following steamers:--The “Black Eagle,” “Garland,” “Undine,” “Fairy,” and “Scourge” (war-steamers). The two equerries are on board the “Black Eagle.”

We were soon under weigh, and as _Osborne_ vanished from our sight, I thought of our poor children left behind.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert, in Dartmouth Harbour, Thursday, August 12._

I have not much to relate. Our voyage has not been what we intended, _mais l’homme propose et Dieu dispose_; for instead of being at _Falmouth_ we are only at _Dartmouth_! We started at five o’clock, and soon after felt the vessel stop, and on inquiring, heard that the fog was so thick it was impossible to proceed. At last Captain Smithett was sent out in the “Garland” to report on the state of the weather; and he soon returned, saying that all was clear enough to proceed outside _The Needles_ (we were in _Alum Bay_). So we started again, and, after breakfast, we came on deck, where I remained working and talking; feeling quite well; but towards one o’clock the ground swell had increased, and we decided to run into the harbour we now are in.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert, Milford Haven, South Wales, Saturday, August 14._

Arrived here this afternoon at five. I will give an account of what has passed since leaving _Dartmouth_. Thursday evening, after dining with Charles, we went on deck, and found the whole town illuminated, and the effect of its curious high houses running down quite into the still sea, which reflected the illumination, was lovely,--the night being so fine and calm.

_Friday, August 13._

We started at four and reached the _Scilly Islands_ at three in the afternoon; it had been very rough. The numerous little rocky islands, in the midst of which we are lying, are very curious.

_St. Mary’s_, the principal island, has a little town, a church, and a small harbour. Exactly opposite, on the isle of _Tresco_, is Mr. Smith’s house; he has the lease of all the islands from the Duchy of Cornwall. Farther to the left is _St. Agnes_, with a lighthouse and innumerable rocks.

Albert (who, as well as Charles, has not been unwell, while I suffered very much) went with Charles and Bertie to see one of the islands. The children recover from their sea-sickness directly. When Albert and the others returned, soon after five, we went with our ladies and gentlemen in the barge across the harbour,--where, blue as the sea was, it was still rather rough,--and landed at a little pier at _St. Mary’s_. The harbour, surmounted by the old fort of the _Star Castle_, reminded me of the harbour of _St. Heliers_. We got into a pony carriage belonging to Mr. Smith, with Charles and Lady Jocelyn, and drove through the place, which looks like a small fishing town, and then round the fortifications of the castle, where there is a very pretty walk overhanging the sea; the rock being covered with fern, and heath, and furze. The extensive view of the islands and rocks around is very beautiful. The town is built upon a very narrow strip of land, with a small bay on either side. We got out at the old castle, which bears the date of one of the Edwards. The view from the battlements is very fine. We returned the same way we went, a little before seven.

_Saturday, August 14._

We started at five o’clock, and the yacht then began to roll and pitch dreadfully, and I felt again very unwell; but I came on deck at three in the afternoon, the sea then was like glass, and we were close to the Welsh coast.

This harbour, _Milford Haven_, is magnificent; the largest we have; a fleet might lie here. We are anchored just off _Milford_. _Pembroke_ in front, in the distance. The cliffs, which are reddish brown, are not very high. Albert and Charles went in the “Fairy” to _Pembroke_, and I sketched. Numbers of boats came out, with Welshwomen in their curious high-crowned men’s hats; and Bertie was much cheered, for the people seemed greatly pleased to see the “Prince of Wales.” Albert returned at a quarter to eight.

A very pretty dairymaid, in complete Welsh costume, was brought on board for me to see. We found _Milford_ illuminated when we went on deck, and bonfires burning everywhere.

_Sunday, August 15._

We started again at four o’clock, but this time had a beautiful day, with the sea smooth the whole way. About eleven we saw the mountainous coast of _Caernarvonshire_; the hills, which are in fact high mountains, are bold and finely shaped, and, Albert said, reminded him much of _Ischia_, with the beautiful deep blue sea and bright sky.

Having arrived at the entrance of the _Menai Straits_, we all left the “Victoria and Albert,” and went on board the “Fairy.” The “Victoria and Albert” with the “Black Eagle” (the two equerries having joined us), the “Undine” and “Scourge,” proceeded round the _Isle of Anglesea_ by _Holyhead_, and, in the “Fairy,” accompanied by the “Garland,” we went into the _Straits_. As we entered, the view of the fine mountains with their rich verdure--_Snowdon_ rising splendidly in the midst--and of the fields and woods below, was really glorious. To the left the country is extremely flat. Then _Caernarvon_ came in sight, with its grand old Castle so finely situated. We stopped for a few moments off here, but did not land. The mountains disappeared for a while, and then re-appeared more beautiful than ever. We passed close to _Plas Newydd_, where we had spent six weeks fifteen years ago. I felt as if I remembered it all very well; but admired the scenery even more than I had expected from my previous recollection.

We passed the famous _Swilly Rocks_, and saw the works they are making for the tube for the railroad, and then went under the _Menai Bridge_ and stopped immediately on the other side. There were crowds of loyal people in steamers and boats, playing “God save the Queen,” and cheering tremendously. Albert and Charles landed and walked over the bridge. When they returned we went on again, and stopped in a most beautiful spot, with almost Swiss scenery, opposite _Penrhyn Castle_, Colonel Douglas Pennant’s (which I saw in the late possessor’s time unfinished), and near _Bangor_, with its wooded banks, through which one can see the high-road to _Beaumaris_. The purple hills, with the verdure below, and the blue sea, were extremely picturesque.

Albert and Charles went to see _Penrhyn_. As soon as they returned we dined below in the “Fairy,” and at eight we returned, with the children and all our people, to the “Victoria and Albert.” The evening was beautiful and the day very successful.

_Monday, August 16._

We woke soon after four o’clock, when getting under weigh, and were surprised to feel the yacht stop not an hour after. Something had gone wrong with the paddle-wheel--just as happened last year--and it took full two hours to set it right. Then at seven we started afresh. A beautiful morning with a very smooth sea. By half-past ten we were in sight of the _Isle of Man_, which is a fine island with bold hills and cliffs. A little before twelve we reached the point of the bay, on which is the town of _Douglas_, very prettily situated, with a picturesque castle near the lighthouse, on the extreme point of the bay. We stopped off here for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour,--the rocks were covered with people. From _Douglas_ to _Ramsay Bay_ the hills and cliffs are high and bold; though _Ramsay_ itself is low.

For about two hours we were out of sight of land, and I was below writing. When I came on deck at three o’clock the Scotch coast was quite close; the _Mull of Galloway_, and then _Wigtownshire_. Albert declared he saw the Irish coast, but I could not descry it. At five we came in sight of _Loch Ryan_, and saw, to the left, _Ailsa Craig_ rising more than 1,000 feet perpendicularly from the sea. _Loch Ryan_ is very fine, and the hills and glens are lovely, particularly little _Glen Finnart_. The loch is very large, and the hills here are very high and wooded. The little town is called _Stranraer_.

_Tuesday, August 17._

At six o’clock we began to move. A beautiful morning. At about eight we were close to the _Ailsa Rock_ or _Craig_, the formation of which is very curious. There were thousands and thousands of birds,--gannets,--on the rock, and we fired a gun off three times in order to bring them in reach of a shot--Albert and Charles tried, but in vain. We next came in sight of the beautiful _Isle of Arran_. The finest point is when you are before the _Holy Island_, and in sight of the _Goatfell_ range of mountains. The highest is about 2,800 feet; they are peculiarly fine from their bold pointed outlines. Before them is _Lamlash_. After passing _Holy Island_ we came to _Brodick Bay_, which is beautiful, with high hills and a glen; in front of which, and surrounded by wood, is the castle which Lord Douglas is building. Not long after this we came in sight of the _Isle of Bute_, and entered the _Clyde_, the view of which from Mr. Stuart’s and Lord Bute’s property is beautiful: high wooded banks, the river opening out and widening, surrounded by the distant mountains. A small place to the right called _Largs_ is very prettily situated.

At half-past twelve we reached _Greenock_, the port of _Glasgow_. The shore and the ships were crowded with people, there being no less (as I since learnt) than thirty-nine steamers, over-filled with people, which almost all followed us! Such a thing never was seen. Add to these steamers boats and ships of all descriptions, moving in all directions; but not getting out of the way! We, however, got safe on board the “Fairy,” and steamed up the _Clyde_; it was hazy, and we could not see the distance well. We passed the small town of _Port Glasgow_, and about one o’clock were at _Dumbarton Castle_. Its situation is very fine, the rock rising straight out of the river, the mountains all round, and the town of _Dumbarton_ behind it, making it very picturesque. We landed just below the Castle, and went with Charles and the children in a carriage to the fort. There was a great crowd, but excellent order kept. We went to the battery, but had to mount many steps to get to it. Wallace was confined here; and it was one of the last castles which held out for Mary Queen of Scots. From the battery there is a very extensive view of the _Clyde_ and _Dumbarton_, and we ought to have been able to see _Ben Lomond_; but it was in mist.