Part 14

We then returned to our carriage, and proceeded to the pier by a shorter road, and through a different part of the town. There is a peculiar elm-tree in the island, which is very pretty, and unlike any other,--the leaf and the way it grows almost resembling the acacia. The crowd was very great and the heat very intense in going back.

We re-embarked in the barge, but had only to go a few yards to the “Fairy.” The situation of the harbour is very fine,--and crowned with the fort, and covered by numbers of people, was like an amphitheatre. The heat of the sun, and the glare, had made me so ill and giddy that I remained below the greater part of the afternoon, and Albert went out for an hour on the “Fairy.”

_Falmouth Harbour, Friday, September 4._

A beautiful day again, with the same brilliantly blue sea. At a quarter to eight o’clock we got under weigh. There was a great deal of motion at first, and for the greater part of the day the ship pitched, but getting up the sails steadied her. From five o’clock it became quite smooth; at half-past five we saw land, and at seven we entered _Falmouth Harbour_, where we were immediately surrounded by boats. The evening was beautiful and the sea as smooth as glass, and without even a ripple. The calmest night possible, with a beautiful moon, when we went on deck; every now and then the splashing of oars and the hum of voices were heard; but they were the only sounds, unlike the constant dashing of the sea against the vessel, which we heard all the time we were at _Jersey_.

_Mount’s Bay, Cornwall, Saturday, September 5._

At eight o’clock we left _Falmouth_ and proceeded along the coast of _Cornwall_, which becomes bold and rugged beyond the _Lizard Point_ and as one approaches _Land’s End_. At about twelve we passed _Land’s End_, which is very fine and rocky, the view from thence opening beautifully. We passed quite close by the _Longships_, some rocks on which stands a lighthouse. The sea was unusually smooth for the _Land’s End_. We went beyond a point with some rocks near it, called _The Brisons_, and then steamed back; the famous Botallack mine lies here. A little before two we landed in this beautiful _Mount’s Bay_, close below _St. Michael’s Mount_, which is very fine. When the bay first opened to our view the sun was lighting up this beautiful castle, so peculiarly built on a lofty rock, and which forms an island at high water.

In entering the bay we passed the small village of _Mousehole_ and the town of _Penzance_, which is prettily situated, about one mile and a half from _St. Michael’s Mount_. The day brightened just as we arrived, and the sea again became so blue.

Soon after our arrival we anchored; the crowd of boats was beyond everything; numbers of Cornish pilchard fishermen, in their curious large boats, kept going round and round, and then anchored, besides many other boats full of people. They are a very noisy, talkative race, and speak a kind of English hardly to be understood.

During our voyage I was able to give Vicky her lessons. At three o’clock we all got into the barge, including the children and Mdlle. Gruner, their governess, and rowed through an avenue of boats of all descriptions to the “Fairy,” where we went on board. The getting in and out of the barge was no easy task. There was a good deal of swell, and the “Fairy” herself rolled amazingly. We steamed round the bay to look at _St. Michael’s Mount_ from the other side, which is even more beautiful, and then went on to _Penzance_. Albert landed near _Penzance_ with all the gentlemen, except Lord Spencer (who is most agreeable, efficient, and useful at sea, being a Captain of the Navy) and Colonel Grey, and went to see the smelting of copper and tin, and the works in serpentine stone at _Penzance_. We remained here a little while without going on, in order to sketch, and returned to the “Victoria and Albert” by half-past four, the boats crowding round us in all directions; and when Bertie showed himself the people shouted:—“Three cheers for the Duke of Cornwall!” Albert returned a little before seven, much gratified by what he had seen, and bringing home specimens of the serpentine stone.

_Mount’s Bay, Sunday, September 6._

A hazy, dull-looking morning, but as calm as it possibly could be. At half-past eight o’clock we got into our barge, with Miss Kerr and Lord Spencer, and proceeded without any standard to the little harbour below _St. Michael’s Mount_. Behind _St. Michael’s Mount_ is the little town of _Marazion_, or “Market Jew,” which is supposed to have taken its name from the Jews having in former times trafficked there. We disembarked and walked up the _Mount_ by a circuitous rugged path over rocks and turf, and entered the old castle, which is beautifully kept, and must be a nice house to live in; as there are so many good rooms in it. The dining-room, made out of the refectory, is very pretty; it is surrounded by a frieze, representing ancient hunting. The chapel is excessively curious. The organ is much famed; Albert played a little on it, and it sounded very fine. Below the chapel is a dungeon, where some years ago was discovered the skeleton of a large man without a coffin; the entrance is in the floor of one of the pews. Albert went down with Lord Spencer, and afterwards went with him and Sir James Clark (who, with Lord Palmerston and Colonel Grey, had joined us,) up to the tower, on the top of which is “St. Michael’s chair,” which, it is said, betrothed couples run up to, and whoever gets first into the chair will have at home the government of the house; and the old housekeeper--a nice tidy old woman--said many a couple “does go there!” though Albert and Lord Spencer said it was the awkwardest place possible to get at. _St. Michael’s Mount_ belongs to Sir J. St. Aubyn. There were several drawings there of _Mont St. Michel_ in _Normandy_, which is very like this one; and was, I believe, inhabited by the same order of monks as this was, _i.e._ Benedictines. We walked down again, had to step over another boat in order to get into our barge, as the tide was so very low, and returned on board the yacht before ten.

The view from the top of _St. Michael’s_ is very beautiful and very extensive, but unfortunately it was too thick and hazy to see it well. A low ridge of sand separates _St. Michael’s Mount_ from _Marazion_ at low water, and the sea at high water. From the sand to the summit of the castle is about 250 feet. The chapel was originally erected, they say, for the use of pilgrims who came here; and it owes its name to a tradition of St. Michael the Archangel having rested on the rock.

At half-past eleven Lord Spencer read on deck the short morning service generally read at sea, which only lasted twenty or twenty-five minutes. The awning was put up, and flags on the sides; and all the officers and sailors were there, as well as ourselves. A flag was hoisted, as is usual when the service is performed on board ship, and Lord Spencer read extremely well.

Albert made a most beautiful little sketch of _St. Michael’s Mount_. Soon after two we left _Mount’s Bay_. About four we came opposite to some very curious serpentine rocks, between _Mount’s Bay_ and _Lizard Point_, and we stopped, that Albert might land. The gentlemen went with him. Lord Spencer soon returned, saying that Albert was very anxious I should see the beautiful little cave in these serpentine rocks; and accordingly I got into the barge, with the children, and ladies, and Lord Spencer, and we rowed to these rocks, with their caves and little creeks. There were many cormorants and sea-gulls on the rocks. We returned again, and were soon joined by Albert, who brought many fine specimens which he had picked up. The stone is really beautifully marked with red and green veins.

We proceeded on our course, and reached _Falmouth_ before seven. The fine afternoon was changed to a foggy, dull, cold evening. We have had on board with us, since we left _Falmouth_, Mr. Taylor, mineral agent to the Duchy of Cornwall, a very intelligent young man, married to a niece of Sir Charles Lemon’s.

_Falmouth, Monday, September 7._

Immediately after breakfast, Albert left me to land and visit some mines. The corporation of _Penryn_ were on board, and very anxious to see “The Duke of Cornwall,” so I stepped out of the pavilion on deck with Bertie, and Lord Palmerston told them that that was “The Duke of Cornwall;” and the old mayor of _Penryn_ said that “he hoped he would grow up a blessing to his parents and to his country.”

A little before four o’clock, we all got into the barge, with the two children, and rowed to the “Fairy.” We rowed through a literal _lane_ of boats, full of people, who had surrounded the yacht ever since early in the morning, and proceeded up the river by _St. Just’s Pool_, to the left of which lies Sir C. Lemon’s place, and _Trefusis_ belonging to Lord Clinton. We went up the _Truro_, which is beautiful,--something like the _Tamar_, but almost finer, though not so bold as _Pentillie Castle_ and _Cothele_,--winding between banks entirely wooded with stunted oak, and full of numberless creeks. The prettiest are _King Harry’s Ferry_ and a spot near _Tregothnan_ (Lord Falmouth’s), where there is a beautiful little boat-house, quite in the woods, and on the river, at the point where the _Tregony_ separates from the _Truro_. Albert said the position of this boat-house put him in mind of Tell’s Chapel in _Switzerland_. We went a little way up the _Tregony_, which is most beautiful, with high sloping banks, thickly wooded down to the water’s edge. Then we turned back and went up the _Truro_ to _Malpas_, another bend of the river, from whence one can see _Truro_, the capital of _Cornwall_. We stopped here awhile, as so many boats came out from a little place called _Sunny Corner_, just below _Truro_, in order to see us; indeed the whole population poured out on foot and in carts, &c. along the banks; and cheered, and were enchanted when Bertie was held up for them to see. It was a very pretty, gratifying sight.

We went straight on to _Swan Pool_ outside _Pendennis Castle_, where we got into the barge, and rowed near to the shore to see a net drawn. Mr. Fox, a Quaker, who lives at _Falmouth_, and has sent us flowers, fruit, and many other things, proposed to put in his net and draw, that we might see all sorts of fish caught, but when it was drawn there was not one fish! So we went back to the “Fairy.” The water near the shore in _Swan Pool_ is so wonderfully clear that one could count the pebbles.

_Tuesday, September 8._

A wet morning when we rose and breakfasted with the children. At about ten o’clock we entered _Fowey_, which is situated in a creek much like _Dartmouth_, only not so beautiful, but still very pretty. We got into the barge (leaving the children on board, and also Lord Spencer, who was not quite well), and landed at _Fowey_ with our ladies and gentlemen, and Mr. Taylor, whom we had brought with us from _Falmouth_. We got into our carriage with the ladies, the gentlemen following in others, and drove through some of the narrowest streets I ever saw in _England_, and up perpendicular hills in the streets--it really quite alarmed one; but we got up and through them quite safely. We then drove on for a long way, on bad and narrow roads, higher and higher up, commanding a fine and very extensive view of the very hilly country of _Cornwall_, its hills covered with fields, and intersected by hedges. At last we came to one field where there was no road whatever, but we went down the hill quite safely, and got out of the carriage at the top of another hill, where, surrounded by woods, stands a circular ruin, covered with ivy, of the old castle of _Restormel_, belonging to the Duchy of Cornwall, and in which the last Earl of Cornwall lived in the thirteenth century. It was very picturesque from this point.

We visited here the Restormel mine, belonging also to the Duchy of Cornwall. It is an iron mine, and you go in on a level. Albert and I got into one of the trucks and were dragged in by miners, Mr. Taylor walking behind us. The miners wear a curious woollen dress, with a cap like this: [Illustration] and the dress thus: [Illustration] and they generally have a candle stuck in front of the cap. This time candlesticks were stuck along the sides of the mine, and those who did not drag or push the truck carried lights. Albert and the gentlemen wore miners’ hats. There was no room for any one to pass between the trucks and the rock, and only just room enough to hold up one’s head, and not always that. It had a most curious effect, and there was something unearthly about this lit-up cavern-like place. We got out and scrambled a little way to see the veins of ore, and Albert knocked off some pieces; but in general it is blown by gunpowder, being so hard. The miners seemed so pleased at seeing us, and are intelligent, good people. It was quite dazzling when we came into daylight again.

We then got into our carriage and passed through the small town of _Lostwithiel_, where an address was presented to us, and then we passed through Mr. Agar Robarts’ Park, which reminded one of _Cothele_. We returned by the same road till near _Fowey_, when we went through some of the narrowest lanes I almost ever drove through, and so fearfully stony. We drove along high above the river to _Place_, belonging to Mr. Treffry, which has been restored according to drawings in his possession, representing the house as it was in former times. A lady of that name defended the house against the French during the absence of her husband, in the fourteenth or fifteenth century. The old gentleman showed us all over the house, and into an unfinished hall, lined with marble and porphyry, all of which came from _Cornwall_. We then walked down to the place of embarkation and proceeded at once to the yacht. Mr. Taylor deserved the greatest credit for all the arrangements. He and his father are what are called “Adventurers” of the mine.

_Osborne, Wednesday, September 9._

We got up about seven o’clock and found we had just passed _The Needles_.

VISIT TO THE LAKES OF KILLARNEY.

_Tuesday, August 27, 1861._

At eleven o’clock we all started in our own sociable, and another of our carriages, and on ponies, for _Ross Castle_, the old ruin which was a celebrated stronghold, and from which the Kenmare family take their name. Here there was an immense crowd and a great many boats. We got into a very handsome barge of eight oars--beautifully rowed. Lord Castlerosse steering. The four children, and Lady Churchill, Lady Castlerosse, and Lord Granville were with us.

We rowed first round _Innisfallen Island_ and some way up the _Lower Lake_. The view was magnificent. We had a slight shower, which alarmed us all, from the mist which overhung the mountains; but it suddenly cleared away and became very fine and very hot. At a quarter to one we landed at the foot of the beautiful hill of _Glena_, where on a small sloping lawn there is a very pretty little cottage. We walked about, though it was overpoweringly hot, to see some of the splendid views. The trees are beautiful,--oak, birch, arbutus, holly, yew,--all growing down to the water’s edge, intermixed with heather. The hills, rising abruptly from the lake, are completely wooded, which gives them a different character from those in _Scotland_, though they often reminded me of the dear _Highlands_. We returned to the little cottage, where the quantity of midges and the smell of peat made us think of _Alt-na-Giuthasach_. Upstairs, from Lady Castlerosse’s little room, the view was towards a part of the _Lower Lake_, the outline of which is rather low. We lunched, and afterwards re-embarked, and then took that most beautiful row up the rapid, under the _Old Weir Bridge_, through the channel which connects the two lakes, and which is very intricate and narrow. Close to our right as we were going, we stopped under the splendid hill of the _Eagle’s Nest_ to hear the _echo_ of a bugle; the sound of which, though blown near by, was not heard. We had to get out near the _Weir Bridge_ to let the empty boats be pulled up by the men. The sun had come out and lit up the really magnificent scenery splendidly; but it was most oppressively hot. We wound along till we entered the _Upper Lake_, which opened upon us with all its high hills--the highest, _The Reeks_, 3,400 feet high--and its islands and points covered with splendid trees;--such arbutus (quite large trees) with yews, making a beautiful foreground. We turned into a small bay or creek, where we got out and walked a short way in the shade, and up to where a tent was placed, just opposite a waterfall called _Derricaunihy_, a lovely spot, but terribly infested by midges. In this tent was tea, fruit, ice, cakes, and everything most tastefully arranged. We just took some tea, which was very refreshing in the great heat of this relaxing climate. The vegetation is quite that of a jungle--ferns of all kinds and shrubs and trees,--all springing up luxuriantly. We entered our boats and went back the same way we came, admiring greatly the beauty of the scenery; and this time went down the rapids in the boat. No boats, except our own, had followed us beyond the rapids. But below them there were a great many, and the scene was very animated and the people very noisy and enthusiastic. The Irish always give that peculiar shrill shriek--unlike anything one ever hears anywhere else.

_Wednesday, August 28._

At a quarter-past eleven we started on a most beautiful drive, of which I annex the route. We drove with Mrs. Herbert and Bertie in our sociable, driven from the box by Wagland;[64] and, though the highest mountains were unfortunately occasionally enveloped in mist, and we had slight showers, we were enchanted with the extreme beauty of the scenery. The peeps of the lake; the splendid woods full of the most magnificent arbutus, which in one place form, for a few yards, an avenue under which you drive, with the rocks,--which are very peculiar--all made it one of the finest drives we had ever taken. Turning up by the village and going round, the _Torc_ mountain reminded us of _Scotland_--of the woods above _Abergeldie_, of _Craig Daign_ and _Craig Clunie_. It was _so_ fine. We got out at the top of the _Torc Waterfall_ and walked down to the foot of it. We came home at half-past one. At four we started for the boats, quite close by. The _Muckross Lake_ is extremely beautiful; at the beginning of our expedition it looked dark and severe in the mist and showers which kept coming on, just as it does in the _Highlands_. Mr. Herbert steered. Our girls, Mrs. Herbert, Lady Churchill, and Lord Granville were in the boat with us. The two boys went in a boat rowed by gentlemen, and the rest in two other boats. At Mr. and Mrs. Herbert’s request I christened one of the points which runs into the lake with a bottle of wine, Albert holding my arm when we came close by, so that it was most successfully smashed.

[64] My coachman since 1857; and a good, zealous servant. He entered the Royal service in 1831, and rode as postilion for seventeen years. His father has been thirty-two years porter in the Royal Mews at Windsor, and is now seventy-five years old; and has been sixty years in the service. His grandfather was also in the Royal service, having entered it in 1788; and his daughter is nursery-maid to the Prince of Wales’s children. Four generations, therefore, have served the Royal Family.

When we emerged from under _Brickeen Bridge_ we had a fine view of the _Lower Lake_ and of the scenery of yesterday, which rather puzzled me, seeing it from another _point de vue_. At _Benson’s Point_ we stopped for some time, merely rowing about backwards and forwards, or remaining stationary, watching for the deer (all this is a deer forest as well as at _Glena_), which we expected the dogs would find and bring down into the water. But in vain: we waited till past six and no deer came. The evening had completely cleared and became quite beautiful; and the effect of the numbers of boats full of people, many with little flags, rowing about in every direction and cheering and shouting, lit up by the evening light, was charming. At _Darby’s Garden_ the shore was densely crowded, and many of the women in their blue cloaks waded into the water, holding their clothes up to their knees.

We were home by seven o’clock, having again a slight sprinkling of rain.

LONDON: PRINTED BY SMITH, ELDER AND CO.

Transcriber’s Notes

Page 3 — Rocky Islanas changed to Rocky Islands. Inconsistent hyphenation was made consistent only when a predominant form was found in this book.