Part 13

The weather, which had been dreadful, cleared up, just as we reached _Glasgow_, about eleven, and continued fine for the remainder of the day. Several addresses were presented on board, first by the Lord Provost, who was knighted, (Colonel Gordon’s sword being used,) then one from the county, the clergy (Established Church and Free Kirk), and from the Houses of Commerce. We landed immediately after this; the landing-place was very handsomely decorated. We then entered our carriage with the two eldest children, the two others following. Mr. Alison (the celebrated historian, who is the Sheriff) rode on one side of the carriage, and General Riddell (the Commander of the Forces in Scotland) on the other. The crowds assembled were quite enormous, but excellent order was kept and they were very enthusiastic. Mr. Alison said that there were 500,000 people out. The town is a handsome one with fine streets built in stone, and many fine buildings and churches. We passed over a bridge commanding an extensive view down two quays, which Albert said was very like _Paris_. There are many large shops and warehouses, and the shipping is immense.

We went up to the old cathedral, where Principal Mac Farlane, a very old man, received us, and directed our attention, as we walked through the church gates, to an immensely high chimney, the highest I believe in existence, which belongs to one of the manufactories. The cathedral is a very fine one, the choir of which is fitted up as a Presbyterian church. We were shown the crypt and former burial-place of the bishops, which is in a very high state of preservation. The architecture is beautiful. It is in this crypt that the famous scene in _Rob Roy_ is laid, where Rob Roy gives Frank Osbaldistone warning that he is in danger. There is an old monument of St. Kentigern, commonly called St. Mungo, the founder of the cathedral. We re-entered our carriages and went to the _University_, an ancient building, and which has produced many great and learned men. Here we got out and received an address. We only stopped a few minutes, and then went on again towards the _Exchange_, in front of which is Marochetti’s equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, very like and beautifully executed. We got out at the railway station and started almost immediately.

We passed _Stirling_ in the distance, and a little before four we reached _Perth_, where the people were very friendly. We took the four children in our carriage and drove straight to the “George Inn,” where we had the same rooms that we had last time.

Albert went out immediately to see the prison, and at six we drove together along the _London Road_ (as they rather strangely call it), towards _Moncrieffe_. The view was perfectly beautiful, and is the finest of _Perth_ and the grand bridge over the _Tay_.

_Wednesday, August 15._

At a quarter to eight o’clock we started. The two boys and Vicky were in the carriage with us, Alice followed with the ladies. It was a long journey, but through very beautiful scenery. We saw the _Grampians_ as we left _Perth_. We first changed horses at _Blairgowrie_, 15 miles. Then came a very long stage of 20 miles, to the _Spittal of Glenshee_. We first passed the house of a Lieut.-Colonel Clark Rattray, called _Craig Hall_, overhanging a valley or glen above which we drove, and after this we came into completely wild Highland scenery, with barren rocky hills, through which the road winds to the _Spittal of Glenshee_, which can scarcely be called a village, for it consists of only an inn and two or three cottages. We got out at the inn, where we found Mr. Farquharson and his son, and some of his men. Here we had some luncheon, and then set off again. The next stage of 15 miles to _Castleton_ is over a very bad, and at night, positively dangerous road, through wild, grand scenery, with very abrupt turns and steep ascents. One sharp turn is called _The Devil’s Elbow_. The Farquharson men joined us again here, some having gone on before, and others having followed from the inn, skipping over stones and rocks with the rapidity and lightness peculiar to Highlanders. They remained with us till we were able to trot on again.

We drove through a very fine pass called _Cairn Wall_ and were overtaken by a heavy shower. When we reached _Castleton_ the day had cleared, and we were able to open the carriage again. Here we were met by Sir Alexander Duff and the Duke of Leeds at the head of their men. Lady Duff, Mr. and Lady Agnes Duff, Miss Farquharson, and several of the children, and the Duchess of Leeds, came up to the carriage. The drive from _Castleton_ to _Balmoral_, particularly the beautiful part from the _Balloch Buie_, was well known to us; and it was a great pleasure to see it all again in its beauty. Grant had met us at the _Spittal of Glenshee_, and ridden the whole way with us. At the door at _Balmoral_ were Mackay, who was playing, and Macdonald in full dress. It was about four when we arrived.

YACHTING EXCURSION.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert, Dartmouth, Thursday, August 20, 1846._

We steamed past the various places on the beautiful coast of _Devonshire_ which we had passed three years ago--_Seaton_, _Sidmouth_, off which we stopped for ten minutes, _Axmouth_, _Teignmouth_, &c.;--till we came to _Babbicombe_, a small bay, where we remained an hour. It is a beautiful spot, which before we had only passed at a distance. Red cliffs and rocks with wooded hills like _Italy_, and reminding one of a ballet or play where nymphs are to appear--such rocks and grottos, with the deepest sea, on which there was not a ripple. We intended to disembark and walk up the hill; but it came on to rain very much, and we could not do so. We tried to sketch the part looking towards _Torbay_. I never saw our good children looking better, or in higher spirits. I contrived to give Vicky a little lesson, by making her read in her English history.

We proceeded on our course again at half-past one o’clock, and saw _Torquay_ very plainly, which is very fine. The sea looked so stormy and the weather became so thick that it was thought best to give up _Plymouth_ (for the third time), and to put into that beautiful _Dartmouth_, and we accordingly did so, in pouring rain, the deck swimming with water, and all of us with umbrellas; the children being most anxious to see everything. Notwithstanding the rain, this place is lovely, with its wooded rocks and church and castle at the entrance. It puts me much in mind of the beautiful _Rhine_, and its fine ruined castles, and the _Lurlei_.

I am now below writing, and crowds of boats are surrounding us on all sides.

_Plymouth Harbour, Friday, August 21._

We got under weigh by half-past six o’clock, and on looking out we saw the sea so calm and blue and the sun so bright that we determined to get up. It was a very fine day, but there was a great deal of swell. At length at half-past nine we entered the splendid harbour of _Plymouth_, and anchored again below _Mount Edgcumbe_; which, with its beautiful trees, including pines, growing down into the sea, looks more lovely than ever. I changed my dress and read innumerable letters and despatches, and then went on deck and saw the authorities--the Admirals and Generals. I did Vicky’s lessons and wrote; and at half-past one we went on board the “Fairy,” (leaving the children on board the “Victoria and Albert,”) with all our ladies and gentlemen, as well as Sir James Clark, who has joined us here. We steamed up the _Tamar_, going first a little way up the _St. Germans_ river, which has very prettily wooded banks. _Trematon Castle_ to the right, which belongs to Bertie as Duke of Cornwall, and _Jats_ to the left, are extremely pretty. We stopped here and afterwards turned back and went up the _Tamar_, which at first seemed flat; but as we proceeded the scenery became quite beautiful--richly wooded hills, the trees growing down into the water, and the river winding so much as to have the effect of a lake. In this it reminded me so much of going up the _Rhine_,--though I don’t think the river resembles the _Rhine_. Albert thought it like the _Danube_. The finest parts begin about _Saltash_, which is a small but prettily built town. To the right as you go up all is un-English looking; a little further on is the mouth of the _Tavy_; here the river becomes very beautiful. We passed numbers of mines at work. Further on, to the left, we came to _Pentillie Castle_ situated on a height most beautifully wooded down to the water’s edge, and the river winding rapidly above and below it. Albert said it reminded him of the situation of _Greinburg_ on the _Danube_. Not much further on we came to the picturesque little village and landing-place of _Cothele_, at the foot of a thickly-wooded bank, with a valley on one side. Here the river is very narrow. We landed, and drove up a steep hill under fine trees to the very curious old _House of Cothele_, where we got out of the carriage. It is most curious in every way--as it stands in the same state as it was in the time of Henry VII. and is in great preservation--the old rooms hung with arras, &c.

We drove down another way under beautiful trees and above the fine valley; embarked and proceeded down the river. The evening was beautiful, the sun bright, and the sky and sea so blue. We arrived just too late for the launch of the frigate “Thetis.” It reminded me so much of when we were here three years ago, as we approached our yacht, surrounded by myriads of boats, and had to row through them in our barge. We returned at half-past five. The evening was delightful--clear, calm, and cloudless, but a good deal of noise in the boats around us. Lord and Lady Mount Edgcumbe and Sir James Clark dined with us.

_Plymouth, Saturday, August 22._

Albert was up at six o’clock, as he was to go to _Dartmoor Forest_. At ten I went in the barge with the two children, the ladies, Baron Stockmar, and Lord Alfred Paget, and landed at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received by Lady Mount Edgcumbe, her two boys, her sister and nieces, and beyond the landing-place by Lord Mount Edgcumbe. There were crowds where we landed, and I feel so shy and put out without Albert. I got into a carriage with the children and Lady Mount Edgcumbe--Lord Mount Edgcumbe going before us and the others following--and took a lovely drive along the road which overhangs the bay, commanding such beautiful views on all sides, and going under and by such fine trees. We had been there three years ago; but it is always a pleasure to see it again. The day very hot and a little hazy. We came to the house at eleven. The children went with their governess and the other children into the shade and had luncheon in the house, and I remained in the gallery--a very pretty room, with some fine pictures, and with a door opening on the garden, and commanding a lovely little bit of sea view, which I tried to sketch. A little after twelve we returned to the yacht, which had been beset with boats ever since six in the morning. Albert returned safely to me at one o’clock, much pleased with his trip; and said that _Dartmoor Forest_ was like _Scotland_.

At two we went with our ladies and gentlemen, and without the children, again to the landing-place at _Mount Edgcumbe_, where we were received as before, and drove up to the house. There are some of the finest and tallest chestnut-trees in existence here, and the beech-trees grow very peculiarly--quite tall and straight--the branches growing upwards. We walked about the gallery and looked into Lady Mount Edgcumbe’s little room at one end of it, which is charming, and full of pretty little things which she has collected, and then we took luncheon in a room where there are some fine portraits by Sir Joshua Reynolds. They are all of the Mount Edgcumbe family, one of whom was his great patron. Sir Joshua was born a few miles from _Plymouth_. There are in the same room pictures by him when he first began to paint, which have kept their colour; then when he made experiments--and these are quite faded; and again of his works when he discovered his mistakes, and the colour of his pictures is then beautiful. We walked about the garden near the house, and then drove to the “Kiosk,” by beautiful stone pines and pinasters, which interested Albert very much, and put me so much in mind of Mr. Lear’s drawings. The view from this “Kiosk,” which is very high over the sea and town, is most beautiful, and the sea was like glass, not a ripple to be seen. We walked down a very pretty road or path through the woods and trees till we met the carriage, and we drove along that beautiful road, which is said to be a little like the _Cornice_, overhanging the sea, down to the place of embarkation, where we took leave of them all, and returned to our yacht by half-past four. Poor Lord Mount Edgcumbe is in such a sad, helpless state; but so patient and cheerful. We went on board just to fetch the children, and then on to the “Fairy,” and steamed in her round the harbour, or rather bay, in which there are such pretty spots; into the _Cat Water_, from whence we rowed in one of the barges a little way up the river to look at _Saltram_, Lord Morley’s; after that back to the “Fairy,” went in her into _Mill Bay_, _Sutton Pool_, and _Stonehouse_, and returned to the yacht by half-past six.

_In Guernsey Bay, off St. Pierre, Guernsey, Sunday, August 23._

On waking, the morning was so lovely that we could not help regretting that we could not delay our trip a little, by one day at least, as the Council which was to have been on the 25th is now on the 29th. We thought, however, we could do nothing but sail for _Torbay_, at half-past nine, and for _Osborne_ on Monday. While dressing, I kept thinking whether we could not manage to see _Falmouth_, or something or other. Albert thought we might perhaps manage to see one of the _Channel Islands_, and accordingly he sent for Lord Adolphus Fitzclarence, and it was settled that we should go to _Guernsey_, which delighted me, as I had so long wished to see it. The day splendid. The General and Admiral came on board to take leave. Sir J. West is the Admiral, and General Murray, the General; and at about half-past nine we set off, and the sea the whole way was as calm as it was in ’43. _Plymouth_ is beautiful, and we shall always be delighted to return there.

For two hours we were in expectation of seeing land; but it was very hazy, and they did not know where we were--till about six, when land was seen by the “Fairy,” who came to report it, and then all the other vessels went on before us. As we approached we were struck by the beauty of the _Guernsey_ coast, in which there are several rocky bays, and the town of _St. Pierre_ is very picturesquely built, down to the water’s edge. You see _Sark_ (or _Sercq_) as you enter the harbour to the right, and further on, close opposite _St. Pierre_, two islands close together--_Herm_ and _Jethou_. The bay with these fine islands is really most curious. We anchored at seven, immediately opposite _St. Pierre_, and with the two islands on the other side of us. We dined at eight, and found on going on deck the whole town illuminated, which had a very pretty effect, and must have been done very quickly, for they had no idea of our coming. It is built like a foreign town. The people speak mostly French amongst themselves.

_August 24._

_St. Pierre_ is very picturesque-looking--with very high, bright-coloured houses built down almost into the sea. The College and Church are very conspicuous buildings. This island with its bold point, and the little one of _Cornet_ with a sort of castle on it (close to which we were anchored), and the three islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_, and _Sark_, with innumerable rocks, are really very fine and peculiar,--especially as they then were in bright sunlight. We both sketched, and at a quarter to nine got into our barge with our ladies. The pier and shore were lined with crowds of people, and with ladies dressed in white, singing “God save the Queen,” and strewing the ground with flowers. We walked to our carriage, preceded by General Napier, brother to Sir Charles (in _Scinde_), a very singular-looking old man, tall and thin, with an aquiline nose, piercing eyes, and white moustaches and hair. The people were extremely well-behaved and friendly, and received us very warmly as we drove through the narrow streets, which were decorated with flowers and flags, and lined with the _Guernsey_ militia, 2,000 strong, with their several bands. Some of the militia were mounted.

The vegetation beyond the town is exceedingly fine; and the evergreens and flowers most abundant. The streets and hills steep, and the view from the fort, which is very high, (and where General Napier presented me with the keys,) is extremely beautiful. You look over the bay of _Guernsey_, and see opposite to you the islands of _Herm_, _Jethou_, and _Sark_; with _Alderney_, and the coast of _France_, _Cape de la Hague_, to the left in the distance, and to the right in the distance, _Jersey_. The island appears very flourishing. In the town they speak English, but in the country French, and this is the same in all the islands. They belonged to the Duchy of Normandy, and have been in our possession ever since William the Conqueror’s time. King John[61] was the last of their sovereigns who visited them. We drove along the pier, and then embarked amidst great cheering. It was all admirably managed; the people are extremely loyal.

[61] For King John’s visit, see Roger de Wendover, a contemporary chronicler.--ED.

We got under weigh a little before one and in about an hour-and-a-half we came close to _Alderney_, seeing all the time the French coast, _Cape de la Hague_, very plainly to our right, and leaving the _Casquets Lights_ to our left. _Alderney_ is quite different from all the other islands, excessively rocky and barren, and the rocks in and under the sea are most frightful.

SECOND YACHTING EXCURSION.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert, Off St. Heliers, Jersey, Wednesday, September 2, 1846._

At a quarter-past seven o’clock we set off with Vicky, Bertie, Lady Jocelyn, Miss Kerr, Mdlle. Gruner, Lord Spencer, Lord Palmerston, and Sir James Clark (Mr. Anson and Colonel Grey being on board the “Black Eagle”), and embarked at _Osborne Pier_. There was a good deal of swell. It was fine, but very cold at first. At twelve we saw _Alderney_, and between two and three got into the _Alderney Race_, where there was a great deal of rolling, but not for long. We passed between _Alderney_ and the French coast--_Cape de la Hague_--and saw the other side of _Alderney_; and then, later, _Sark_, _Guernsey_, and the other islands. After passing the _Alderney Race_, it became quite smooth; and then Bertie put on his sailor’s dress, which was beautifully made by the man on board who makes for our sailors. When he appeared, the officers and sailors, who were all assembled on deck to see him, cheered, and seemed delighted with him.

The coast of _Jersey_ is very beautiful, and we had to go nearly all round, in order to get to _St. Heliers_. We first passed the point called _Rondnez_, then _Grosnez_ with a tower, _St. Ouen’s Bay_, _La Rocca_, a curious old tower on a rock, and then _Brelade’s Bay_. The red cliffs and rocks, with the setting sun gilding and lighting them all up, were beautiful. At last, at a quarter to seven, we arrived in this fine large bay of _St. Aubin_, in which lies _St. Heliers_; and after dinner we went on deck to see the illumination and the bonfires.

_Off St. Heliers, Thursday, September 3._

A splendid day. I never saw a more beautiful deep blue sea, quite like _Naples_; and Albert said that this fine bay of _St. Aubin_, in which we lie, really is like the _Bay of Naples_. _Noirmont Point_ terminates in a low tower to our left, with _St. Aubin_ and a tower on a rock in front of it; farther in, and to our right, _Elizabeth Castle_, a picturesque fort on a rock, with the town of _St. Heliers_ behind it.

The colouring and the effect of light were indescribably beautiful. We got into our barge with our ladies and gentlemen, and then went on board the “Fairy,” until we were close to the harbour, and then we got into the barge again. We landed at the stairs of the _Victoria Harbour_, amid the cheers of the numberless crowds, guns firing, and bands playing; were received, as at _Guernsey_, by all the ladies of the town, very gaily dressed, who, strewing flowers on our way, conducted us to a canopy, where I received the address of the States and of the militia.

We then got into our carriage and drove along the pier; Colonel Le Couteur, my militia aide-de-camp, riding by my side, with other officers, and by Albert’s side Colonel Le Breton, commanding the militia, who, 5,000 strong, lined the streets, and were stationed along the pier. The States walking in front. The crowds were immense, but everything in excellent order, and the people most enthusiastic, though not more so than the good _Guernsey_ people; the town is much larger, and they had much longer time for preparations; the decorations and arches of flowers were really beautifully done, and there were numberless kind inscriptions. All the country people here speak French, and so did the police who walked near us. It was a very gratifying reception. There was a seat in one of the streets filled by Frenchwomen from _Granville_, curiously dressed with white handkerchiefs on their heads. After passing through several streets we drove up to the _Government House_, but did not get out. General Gibbs, the Governor, is very infirm.

We then proceeded at a quicker pace--the walking procession having ceased--through the interior of the island, which is extremely pretty and very green,--orchards without end, as at _Mayence_. We passed the curious old tower of _La Hougue Bie_, of very ancient date, and went to the _Castle of Mont Orgueil_, in _Grouville Bay_, very beautifully situated, completely overhanging the sea, and where Robert, Duke of Normandy, son of William the Conqueror, is said to have lived.[62] We walked part of the way up, and from one of the batteries, where no guns are now mounted, you command the bay, and the French coast is distinctly seen, only 13 miles distant. The people are very proud that _Mont Orgueil_ had never been taken; but I have since learnt it was taken by surprise and held for a few days; _Guernsey_, however, _never_ was taken.[63]

[62] Mont Orgueil was also called Gouray Castle. Duke Robert the Second, the Conqueror’s son, lived at Gouray Castle in Normandy: Duke Robert the First, commonly called “Robert le Diable,” was in Jersey for twelve days; and, during that time, probably occupied Gouray Castle in that island. Hence may have arisen the tradition of Robert the Second having lived there, of which there is no evidence.--ED.

[63] The public Records certainly state that Guernsey was taken by the French in 1339. But the same records show that it was again in the possession of the English as early as January 1340. The tradition, therefore, “that Guernsey never was taken,” may be true, as the occupation by the French might only have been partial--viz., of Castle Cornet and the vicinity; and this might have been magnified, by report in England, into a conquest of the whole island. Popular traditions, contradicted at first by documentary evidence, are often eventually found to be true. Everything depends upon the meaning of the words “taken” and “conquered.” It could hardly have been said that England had been “conquered” by the Normans, while the gallant Hereward held out in the Isle of Ely.--ED.