Part 11

We drove as we did yesterday. Fine and very wild scenery, high wild hills, and no habitations. We went by the _Pass of Drumouchter_, with fine hills on both sides and in front of us; passed between two, the one on our left called _The Boar of Badenoch_, and that on the right, _The Athole Sow_. The _Pass of Drumouchter_ separates _Perthshire_ from _Inverness-shire_.

Again, a little farther on, we came to _Loch Garry_, which is very beautiful--but the mist covered the furthest hills, and the extreme distance was clouded. There is a small shooting-lodge, or farm, charmingly situated, looking up the glen on both sides, and with the loch in front; we did not hear to whom it belonged. We passed many drovers, without their herds and flocks, returning, Grant told us, from _Falkirk_. We had one very heavy shower after _Loch Garry_ and before we came to _Dalnacardoch Inn_, 13 miles from _Dalwhinnie_. The road goes beside the _Garry_. The country for a time became flatter; but was a good deal cultivated. At _Dalnacardoch Inn_ there was a suspicion and expectation of our arrival. Four horses with smart postilions were in waiting; but, on General Grey’s saying that this was _not_ the party, but the one for whom only two horses had been ordered, a shabby pair of horses were put in; a shabby driver driving from the box (as throughout this journey), and off we started.

The _Garry_ is very fine, rolling along over large stones--like the _Quoich_ and the _Fishie_, and forming perpetual falls, with birch and mountain-ash growing down to the water’s edge. We had some more heavy showers. A few miles from _Dalnacardoch_ the Duke of Athole (in his kilt and shooting-jacket, as usual) met us on a pretty little chestnut pony, and rode the whole time near the carriage. He said, there were vague suspicions and rumours of our coming, but he had told no one anything. There was again a shower, but it cleared when we came in sight of _Ben-y-Ghlo_, and the splendid _Pass of Killiekrankie_, which, with the birch all golden,--not, as on _Deeside_, bereft of leaves,--looked very beautiful.

We passed by the _Bruar_, and the road to the _Falls of the Bruar_, but could not stop. The Duke took us through a new approach, which is extremely pretty; but near which, I cannot help regretting, the railroad will come, as well as along the road by which we drove through the _Pass of Drumouchter_. The Duke has made great improvements, and the path looked beautiful, surrounded as it is by hills; and the foliage still full, though in all its autumn tints--the whole being lit up with bright sunshine. We drove through an avenue, and in a few minutes more were at the door of the old castle. A thousand recollections of seventeen years ago crowded upon me--all seemed so familiar again! No one there except the dear Duchess, who stood at the door, and whom I warmly embraced; and Miss Mac Gregor. How well I recognized the hall with all the sporting trophies; and the staircase, which we went up at once. The Duchess took us to a room which I recognized immediately as the one where Lady Canning lived. There we took off our things--then went to look at the old and really very handsome rooms in which we had lived--the one in which Vicky had slept in two chairs, then not four years old! In the dining-room we took some coffee, which was most welcome; and then we looked at all the stags’ horns put up in one of the corridors below; saw the Duke’s pet dog, a smooth-haired black terrier, very fat; and then got into the carriage, a very peculiar one, viz., a _boat_--a mere boat (which is very light), put on four wheels, drawn by a pair of horses with a postilion. Into this we four got, with the Duke and Duchess and the dog;--Lady Churchill, General Grey, and Miss Mac Gregor going in another carriage; with our two servants on the box, to whom all this was quite new and a great treat. The morning was beautiful. It was half-past twelve--we drove up by the avenue and about a favourite walk of ours in ’44, passed through the gate, and came on to _Glen Tilt_--which is most striking, the road winding along, first on one side of the _Tilt_, and then on the other; the fine high hills rising very abruptly from each side of the rapid, rocky, stony river _Tilt_--the trees, chiefly birch and alder, overhanging the water.

We passed the _Marble Lodge_, in which one of the keepers lives, and came to _Forest Lodge_, where the road for carriages ends, and the glen widens. There were our ponies, which had passed the night at the _Bainoch_ or _Beynoch_ (a shooting “shiel” of Lord Fife’s). They came over this morning; but, poor beasts, without having had any corn! _Forest Lodge_ is eight miles from _Blair_. There we took leave of the dear Duchess; and saw old Peter Frazer, the former head-keeper there, now walking with the aid of two sticks! The Duke’s keepers were there, his pipers, and a gentleman staying on a visit with him.

It was barely two o’clock when we started. We on our ponies, the Duke and his men (twelve altogether) on foot--Sandy McAra, now head-keeper, grown old and grey, and two pipers, preceded us; the two latter playing alternately the whole time, which had a most cheerful effect. The wild strains sounded so softly amid those noble hills; and our caravan winding along--our people and the Duke’s all in kilts, and the ponies, made altogether a most picturesque scene.

One of the Duke’s keepers, Donald Macbeath, is a guardsman, and was in the _Crimea_. He is a celebrated marksman, and a fine-looking man, as all the Duke’s men are. For some little time it was easy riding, but soon we came to a rougher path, more on the “brae” of the hill, where the pony required to be led, which I always have done, either when it is at all rough or bad, or when the pony has to be got on faster.

The Duke walked near me the greater part of the time; amusingly saying, in reference to former times, that he did not offer to lead me, as he knew I had no confidence in him. I replied, laughingly, “Oh, no, only I like best being led by the person I am accustomed to.”

At length, at about three, we stopped, and lunched at a place called _Dalcronachie_, looking up a glen towards _Loch Loch_--on a high bank overhanging the _Tilt_. Looking back the view was very fine; so, while the things were being unpacked for lunch, we sketched. We brought our own luncheon, and the remainder was as usual given to the men, but this time there were a great many to feed. After luncheon we set off again. I walked a few paces; but as it was very wet, and the road very rough, by Albert’s desire I got on again. A very few minutes brought us to the celebrated ford of the _Tarff_, (_Poll Tarff_ it is called,) which is very deep--and after heavy rain almost impassable. The Duke offered to lead the pony on one side, and talked of Sandy for the other side, but I asked for Brown (whom I have far the most confidence in) to lead the pony, the Duke taking hold of it (as he did frequently) on the other side. Sandy McAra, the guide, and the two pipers went first, playing all the time. To all appearance the ford of the _Tarff_ was not deeper than the other fords, but once in it the men were above their knees--and suddenly in the middle, where the current, from the fine, high, full falls, is very strong, it was nearly up to the men’s waists. Here Sandy returned, and I said to the Duke (which he afterwards joked with Sandy about) that I thought he (Sandy) had better take the Duke’s place; he did so, and we came very well through, all the others following, the men chiefly wading--Albert (close behind me) and the others riding through--and some of our people coming over double on the ponies. General Grey had little Peter Robertson up behind him.

The road after this became almost precipitous, and indeed made riding very unpleasant; but being wet, and difficult to walk, we ladies rode, Albert walking the greater part of the time. Only once, for a very few steps, I had to get off, as the pony could hardly keep its footing. As it was, Brown constantly could not walk next to the pony, but had to scramble below, or pull it after him. The Duke was indefatigable.

The _Tilt_ becomes narrower and narrower, till its first source is almost invisible. The _Tarff_ flows into the _Tilt_, about two miles or more beyond the falls. We emerged from the pass upon an open valley--with less high hills and with the hills of _Braemar_ before us. We crossed the _Bainoch_ or _Bynack_, quite a small stream, and when we came to the “County March”--where _Perth_ and _Aberdeen_ join--we halted. The Duke gave Albert and me some whisky to drink, out of an old silver flask of his own, and then made a short speech proposing my health, expressing the pleasure with which he and all had received me at _Blair_, and hoping that I would return as often as I liked, and that I should have a safe return home; ending by the true Highland “Nis! nis! nis! Sit air a-nis! A-ris! a-ris! a-ris!” (pronounced: “Neesh! neesh! neesh! Sheet eir, a-neesh! A-rees! a-rees! a-rees!”) which means: “Now! now! now! That to him, now! Again! again! again!” which was responded to by cheering from all. Grant then proposed “three cheers for the Duke of Athole,” which was also very warmly responded to;--my pony (good “Inchrory”), which went admirably, rather resenting the vehemence of Brown’s cheering.

We then went on again for about three miles to the _Bainoch_, which we reached at ten minutes to six, when it was already nearly dark. As we approached the “shiel,” the pipers struck up, and played. The ponies went so well with the pipes, and altogether it was very pleasant to ride and walk with them. They played “the Athole Highlanders” when we started, and again in coming in.

Lady Fife had very kindly come down to the _Bainoch_ herself, where she gave us tea, which was very welcome. We then got into our carriages, wishing the good Duke of Athole good-by. He was going back the whole way--which was certainly rather a hazardous proceeding, at least an adventurous one, considering the night, and that there was no moon--and what the road was! We got home safely at a quarter-past eight. The night was quite warm, though slightly showery--but became very clear and starlight later.

We had travelled 69 miles to-day, and 60 yesterday. This was the pleasantest and most enjoyable expedition I _ever_ made; and the recollection of it will always be most agreeable to me, and increase my wish to make more! Was so glad dear Louis (who is a charming companion) was with us. Have enjoyed nothing as much, or indeed felt so much cheered by anything, since my great sorrow.[57] Did not feel tired. We ladies did not dress, and dined _en famille_; looking at maps of the _Highlands_ after dinner.

[57] The death of the Duchess of Kent.

LAST EXPEDITION.

_Wednesday, October 16, 1861._

To our great satisfaction it was a most beautiful morning. Not a cloud was on the bright blue sky, and it was perfectly calm. There had been a sharp frost which lay on parts of the grass, and the mountains were beautifully lit up, with those very blue shades upon them, like the bloom on a plum. Up early, and breakfasted with Alice, Louis, and Lenchen, in our room. At twenty minutes to nine o’clock we started, with Alice, Lenchen, and Louis. The morning was beyond everything splendid, and the country in such beauty, though the poor trees are nearly leafless.

Near _Castleton_, and indeed all along the road, in the shade, the frost still lay, and the air was very sharp. We took post-horses at _Castleton_, and proceeded up _Glen Clunie_ to _Glen Callater_, which looked lovely, and which Albert admired much. In a little more than two hours we were at _Loch Callater_--the road was very bad indeed as we approached the loch, where our ponies were waiting for us. After walking a few paces we remounted them, I on my good “Fyvie,” and Alice on “Inchrory.”

The day was glorious--and the whole expedition delightful, and very easily performed. We ascended _Little Cairn Turc_, on the north side of _Loch Callater_, up a sort of footpath very easy and even, upon ground that was almost flat, rising very gradually, but imperceptibly; and the view became wonderfully extensive. The top of _Cairn Turc_ is quite flat--with moss and grass--so that you could drive upon it. It is very high, for you see the high table-land behind the highest point of _Loch-na-Gar_. On that side you have no view; but from the other it is wonderfully extensive. It was so clear and bright, and so still there, reminding us of the day on _Ben Muich Dhui_ last year.

There rose immediately behind us _Ben Muich Dhui_, which you hardly ever see, and the shape of which is not fine, with its surrounding mountains of _Cairngorm_, _Brae Riach_, _Ben Avon_ or _A’an_, _Ben-na-Bhourd_, &c. We saw _Ben-y-Ghlo_ quite clearly, and all that range of hills; then, further west, _Shichallion_, near _Loch Tay_; the mountains which are near the _Black Mount_; and, quite on the horizon, we could discern _Ben Nevis_, which is above _Fort William_.

Going up _Cairn Turc_ we looked down upon _Loch Canter_, a small loch above _Loch Callater_, very wild and dark. We proceeded to _Cairn Glaishie_, at the extreme point of which a cairn has been erected. We got off to take a look at the wonderful panorama which lay stretched out before us. We looked on _Fifeshire_, and the country between _Perth_ and _Stirling_, the _Lomond Hills_, &c. It was beautifully clear, and really it was most interesting to look over such an immense extent of the _Highlands_. I give a very poor description of it; but here follows a rough account of the places we saw:—

To the North--_Ben Muich Dhui_, _Brae Riach_, _Cairngorm_, _Ben Avon_, _Ben-na-Bhourd_.

To the East--_Loch-na-Gar_, &c.

To the South-West--_Ben-y-Ghlo_ or _Ben-y-Gloe_, and the surrounding hills beyond _Shichallion_, and the mountains between _Dunkeld_ and the _Black Mount_.

Quite in the extreme West--_Ben Nevis_.

To the South--the _Lomond Hills_; _Perth_ in the middle distance.

We walked on a little way, and then I got upon my pony. Another half hour’s riding again over such singular flat table-land, brought us on to the edge of the valley of _Cairn Lochan_, which is indeed “a bonnie place.” It reminded me and Louis of _Clova_; only there one did not see the immense extent of mountains behind. _Cairn Lochan_ is a narrow valley, the river _Isla_ winding through it like a silver ribbon, with trees at the bottom. The hills are green and steep, but towards the head of the valley there are fine precipices. We had then to take a somewhat circuitous route in order to avoid some bogs, and to come to a spot where we looked right up the valley for an immense distance; to the left, or rather more to the south, was _Glen Isla_, another glen, but wider, and not with the same high mountains as _Cairn Lochan_. Beyond _Glen Isla_ were seen the _Lomond Hills_ behind _Kinross_, at the foot of which is _Loch Leven_.

We sat on a very precipitous place, which made one dread any one’s moving backwards; and here, at a little before two o’clock, we lunched. The lights were charmingly soft, and, as I said before, like the bloom on a plum. The luncheon was very acceptable, for the air was extremely keen, and we found ice thicker than a shilling on the top of _Cairn Turc_, which did not melt when Brown took it and kept it in his hand.

Helena was so delighted, for this was _the only really great_ expedition in which she had accompanied us.

Duncan and the keeper at _Loch Callater_ (R. Stewart) went with us as guides.

I made some hasty sketches; and then Albert wrote on a bit of paper that we had lunched here, put it into the Selters-water bottle, and buried it there, or rather stuck it into the ground. Grant had done the same when we visited _Ben Muich Dhui_ the first time. This over, we walked part of the way back which we had ridden to avoid the bogs,--we ladies walking only a short way, and then riding. We altered our course, and left _Cairn Glaishie_ to our right, and went in the direction of the _Cairn Wall_. Looking back on the distant hills above _Glen Isla_ and _Cairn Lochan_ (Lord Airlie’s “Country”), it was even more beautiful; for, as the day advanced, the mountains became clearer and clearer, of a lovely blue, while the valleys were in shadow. _Shichallion_, and those further ranges, were also most perfectly to be seen, and gave me such a longing for further Highland expeditions! We went over _Garbchory_, looking down on the road to the _Spittal_; and on the lower mountains, which are most curiously connected one with another, and which, from the height we were, we could look down upon.

Here follows the account of our route, with all the names as written down by Duncan. I cannot “mind” the names, as they say here.

From _Balmoral_ to--

_Loch Callater_, four miles, Left _Loch Callater_ at 11 o’clock, A.M., _Little Cairn Turc_, _Big Cairn Turc_, _Loch Canter_, _Cairn Glaishie_, _Cairn Lochan_, _Ca-Ness_, six miles.

Returning route:—

_Cairn Lochan_, _Cairn Glashie_, _Garb Chory_, _Month Eigie Road_, _Glass Meall_, _Fian Chory_, _Aron Ghey_, _Shean Spittal Bridge_, 4.30 P.M., _Shean Spittal Bridge_ to _Balmoral_, 16 miles.

This gave one a very good idea of the geography of the country, which delighted dear Albert, as this expedition was quite in a different direction from any that we had ever made before. But my head is so very ungeographical, that I cannot describe it. We came down by the _Month Eigie_, a steep hill covered with grass--down part of which I rode, walking where it was steepest; but it was so wet and slippery that I had two falls. We got down to the road to the _Spittal Bridge_, about 15 miles from _Castleton_, at nearly half-past four, and then down along the new road, at least that part of it which is finished, and which is to extend to the _Cairn Wall_. We went back on our side of the river; and if we had been a little earlier, Albert might have got a stag--but it was too late. The moon rose and shone most beautifully, and we returned at twenty minutes to seven o’clock, much pleased and interested with this delightful expedition. Alas! I fear our _last_ great one!

(IT WAS OUR LAST ONE!--1867.)

_TOURS_

_in_

_ENGLAND AND IRELAND,_

_and_

_YACHTING EXCURSIONS._

FIRST VISIT TO IRELAND.

_On Board the Victoria and Albert, in the Cove of Cork, Thursday, August 2, 1849._

Arrived here after a quick but not very pleasant passage. The day was fine and bright, and the sea to all appearance very smooth; but there was a dreadful swell, which made one incapable of reading or doing anything. We passed the _Land’s End_ at nine o’clock in the morning. When we went on deck after eight in the evening, we were close to the _Cove of Cork_, and could see many bonfires on the hill, and the rockets and lights that were sent off from the different steamers. The harbour is immense, though the land is not very high, and entering by twilight it had a very fine effect. Lady Jocelyn, Miss Dawson, Lord Fortescue (Lord Steward), Sir George Grey (Secretary of State for the Home Department), Miss Hildyard, Sir James Clark, and Mr. Birch are on board with us. The equerries, Colonel Phipps and Colonel Gordon, are on board the “Black Eagle.”

_Friday, August 3._

The day was grey and excessively “muggy,” which is the character of the Irish climate. The ships saluted at eight o’clock, and the “Ganges” (the flag-ship and a three-decker) and the “Hogue” (a three-decker cut down, with very heavy guns, and with a screw put into her), which are both very near us, made a great noise. The harbour is very extensive, and there are several islands in it, one of which is very large. _Spike Island_ is immediately opposite us, and has a convict prison; near it another island with the depôt, &c. In a line with that is the town of _Cove_, picturesquely built up a hill. The two war-steamers have only just come in. The Admiral (Dixon) and the Captains of the vessels came on board. Later, Lord Bandon (Lord-Lieutenant of the county), Lord Thomond, General Turner, Commander of the Forces at Cork, presented their respects, and Albert went on shore, and I occupied myself in writing and sketching. Albert returned before our luncheon, and had been walking about and visiting some of the cabins.

We left the yacht at two with the ladies and gentlemen, and went on board the “Fairy,” which was surrounded with rowing and sailing boats. We first went round the harbour, all the ships saluting, as well as numbers of steamers and yachts. We then went into _Cove_ and lay alongside the landing-place, which was very prettily decorated; and covered with people; and yachts, ships and boats crowding all round. The two Members, Messrs. Roche and Power, as well as other gentlemen, including the Roman Catholic and Protestant clergymen, and then the members of the Yacht Club, presented addresses. After which, to give the people the satisfaction of calling the place _Queenstown_, in honour of its being the first spot on which I set foot upon Irish ground, I stepped on shore amidst the roar of cannon (for the artillery were placed so close as quite to shake the temporary room which we entered); and the enthusiastic shouts of the people. We immediately re-embarked and proceeded up the river _Lee_ towards _Cork_. It is extremely pretty and richly wooded, and reminded me of the _Tamar_. The first feature of interest we passed was a little bathing-place, called _Monkstown_, and later _Blackrock Castle_, at which point we stopped to receive a salmon, and a very pretty address from the poor fishermen of _Blackrock_.

As we approached the city we saw people streaming in, on foot, on horseback, and many in jaunting-cars. When we reached _Cork_ the “Fairy” again lay alongside, and we received all the addresses: first, from the Mayor and Corporation (I knighted the Mayor immediately afterwards), then from the Protestant Bishop and clergy; from the Roman Catholic Bishop and clergy; from the Lord-Lieutenant of the county, the Sheriffs, and others. The two Judges, who were holding their courts, also came on board in their robes. After all this was over we landed, and walked some few paces on to where Lord Bandon’s carriage was ready to receive us. The ladies went with us, and Lord Bandon and the General rode on each side of the carriage. The Mayor preceded us, and many (Lord Listowel among the number,) followed on horseback or in carriages. The 12th Lancers escorted us, and the Pensioners and Infantry lined the streets.

I cannot describe our route, but it will suffice to say that it took two hours; that we drove through the principal streets; twice through some of them; that they were densely crowded, decorated with flowers and triumphal arches; that the heat and dust were great; that we passed by the new College which is building--one of the four which are ordered by Act of Parliament; that our reception was most enthusiastic; and that everything went off to perfection, and was very well arranged. _Cork_ is not at all like an English town, and looks rather foreign.

The crowd is a noisy, excitable, but very good-humoured one, running and pushing about, and laughing, talking, and shrieking. The beauty of the women is very remarkable, and struck us much; such beautiful dark eyes and hair, and such fine teeth; almost every third woman was pretty, and some remarkably so. They wear no bonnets, and generally long blue cloaks; the men are very poorly, often raggedly dressed; and many wear blue coats and short breeches with blue stockings.

We re-embarked at the same place and returned just as we came.

_Kingstown Harbour, Dublin Bay, Sunday, August 5._