Part 1

Transcriber’s Notes.

Hyphenation has been standardised.

Footnotes were moved to the ends of the text they pertain to and numbered in one continuous sequence.

The words ‘gillie’ and ‘ghillie’ have been left unchanged. Both spellings appear to be acceptable.

Other changes made are noted at the end of the book.

LEAVES

FROM THE JOURNAL

OF

OUR LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS,

FROM 1848 TO 1861.

TO WHICH ARE PREFIXED AND ADDED EXTRACTS FROM THE SAME JOURNAL GIVING AN ACCOUNT OF

EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND, AND TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS.

_EDITED BY ARTHUR HELPS._

LONDON: SMITH, ELDER AND CO. 1868.

[THE RIGHT OF TRANSLATION IS RESERVED.]

TO

THE DEAR MEMORY OF HIM

WHO MADE THE LIFE OF THE WRITER BRIGHT AND HAPPY,

THESE SIMPLE RECORDS

ARE LOVINGLY AND GRATEFULLY INSCRIBED.

EDITOR’S PREFACE.

The circumstances which have led to the publication of this Volume are, briefly, these.

During one of the Editor’s official visits to Balmoral, her Majesty very kindly allowed him to see several extracts from her journal, relating to excursions in the Highlands of Scotland. He was much interested by them; and expressed the interest which he felt. It then occurred to her Majesty that these extracts, referring, as they did, to some of the happiest hours of her life, might be made into a book, to be printed privately, for presentation to members of the Royal Family and her Majesty’s intimate friends; especially to those who had accompanied and attended her in these tours.

It was then suggested to her Majesty by some persons, among them a near and dear relative of the Queen, and afterwards by the Editor, that this work, if made known to others, would be very interesting to them as well as to the Royal Family and to her Majesty’s intimate friends. The Queen, however, said, that she had no skill whatever in authorship; that these were, for the most part, mere homely accounts of excursions near home; and that she felt extremely reluctant to publish anything written by herself.

To this the Editor respectfully replied, that, if printed at all, however limited the impression, and however careful the selection of persons to whom copies might be given, some portions of the volume, or quite as probably incorrect representations of its contents, might find their way into the public journals. It would therefore, he thought, be better at once to place the volume within the reach of her Majesty’s subjects, who would, no doubt, derive from it pleasure similar to that which it had afforded to the Editor himself. Moreover, it would be very gratifying to her subjects, who had always shown a sincere and ready sympathy with the personal joys and sorrows of their Sovereign,--to be allowed to know how her rare moments of leisure were passed in her Highland home, when every joy was heightened, and every care and sorrow diminished, by the loving companionship of the Prince Consort. With his memory the scenes to which this volume refers would always be associated.

Upon these considerations her Majesty eventually consented to its publication.

While the book was being printed, the Editor suggested that it would gain in interest if other extracts were added to it, describing her Majesty’s progresses in England, Ireland, and the Channel Islands.

The Queen was pleased to assent; and the additions were accordingly made.

* * * * *

It will easily be seen that this little work does not make any pretension to be more than such a record of the impressions received by the Royal Author in the course of these journeys, as might hereafter serve to recall to her own mind the scenes and circumstances which had been the source of so much pleasure. All references to political questions, or to the affairs of Government, have, for obvious reasons, been studiously omitted. The book is mainly confined to the natural expressions of a mind rejoicing in the beauties of nature, and throwing itself, with a delight rendered keener by the rarity of its opportunities, into the enjoyment of a life removed, for the moment, from the pressure of public cares.

* * * * *

It would not be becoming in the Editor to dwell largely upon the merits of this work. He may, however, allude to the picturesque descriptions of scenery in which the work abounds; to the simplicity of diction throughout it; and to the perfect faithfulness of narration which is one of its chief characteristics; for in every page the writer describes what she thinks and feels, rather than what she might be expected to think and feel.

Moreover, he may point out the willingness to be pleased, upon which so much of the enjoyment of any tour depends: and also the exceeding kindliness of feeling--the gratitude even--with which the Royal Tourists recognize any attention paid to them, or any manifestation of the cordial attachment felt towards them, by any of her Majesty’s subjects, from the highest to the humblest, whom they happen to meet with in the course of their journeys.

* * * * *

The Editor thinks that he should not be doing justice to the Royal Author’s book--not doing what, if it were any other person’s work which was entrusted to his editing, he should do--if he were to forbear giving utterance to the thoughts which occurred to him in reference to the notes to the Volume.

These notes, besides indicating that peculiar memory for persons, and that recognition of personal attachment, which have been very noticeable in our Sovereigns, illustrate, in a striking manner, the Patriarchal feeling (if one may apply such a word as “patriarchal” to a lady) which is so strong in the present occupant of the Throne. Perhaps there is no person in these realms who takes a more deep and abiding interest in the welfare of the household committed to his charge than our gracious Queen does in hers, or who feels more keenly what are the reciprocal duties of masters and servants.

Nor does any one wish more ardently than her Majesty, that there should be no abrupt severance of class from class, but rather a gradual blending together of all classes,--caused by a full community of interests, a constant interchange of good offices, and a kindly respect felt and expressed by each class to all its brethren in the great brotherhood that forms a nation.

Those whose duty it has been to attend upon the Queen in matters of business, must have noticed that her Majesty, as a person well versed in the conduct of affairs, is wont to keep closely to the point at issue, and to speak of nothing but what is directly connected with the matter before her. But whenever there is an exception to this rule, it arises from her Majesty’s anxious desire to make some inquiry about the welfare of her subjects--to express her sympathy with this man’s sorrow, or on that man’s bereavement--to ask what is the latest intelligence about this disaster, or that suffering, and what can be done to remedy or assuage it--thus showing, unconsciously, that she is, indeed, the Mother of her People, taking the deepest interest in all that concerns them, without respect of persons, from the highest to the lowest.

* * * * *

The Editor thinks that one point of interest which will incidentally be disclosed by this publication, is the aspect of the Court in these our times. What would not the historian give to have similar materials within his reach, when writing about the reigns of the great Queen Elizabeth or the good Queen Anne? There is always something in the present which has the appearance of being trivial and prosaic; but the future historian will delight in having details before him furnished by this book and by the _Life of the Prince Consort_[1], which will enable him fully to describe the reign of Victoria, and justly to appreciate the private life of a Sovereign whose public life will enter so largely into the annals of the nineteenth century.

[1] A work which has met with a very cordial reception from the public, and which, from what the Editor has seen, will not by any means diminish in interest as it proceeds to describe the full and busy life of the Prince as a man.

One more remark the Editor cannot refrain from making; namely, that it is evident that her Majesty never takes for granted the services and attentions which are rendered to her, and which we all know would be rendered to her from dutiful respect and regard, but views them as especial kindnesses shown to herself, and to which she makes no claim whatever from her exalted position as a Sovereign.

This latter trait, very characteristic of the Royal Author, gives, throughout, an additional charm to the book, which, on that account alone, and apart even from its many other merits, will, the Editor doubts not, be gratefully and affectionately welcomed by the public.

LONDON, _January, 1868_.

CONTENTS.

EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND.

DATE PAGE

First Visit to Scotland 29 Aug. 1842 1

Visit to Blair Athole 9 Sept. 1844 29

Tour round the West Coast of Scotland and Visit to Ardverikie 11 Aug. 1847 43

LIFE IN THE HIGHLANDS, 1848-1861.

First Impressions of Balmoral 8 Sept. 1848 65

First Ascent of Loch-na-Gar 16 Sept. 1848 67

A “Drive” in the Balloch Buie 18 Sept. 1848 71

The First Stay at Alt-na-Giuthasach 30 Aug. 1849 73

A Beat in the Abergeldie Woods 3 Sept. 1849 76

Visit to the Dhu Loch, &c. 11 Sept. 1849 78

Ascent of Ben-na-Bhourd 6 Sept. 1850 81

The Gathering 12 Sept. 1850 83

Salmon Leistering 13 Sept. 1850 85

Loch Muich 16 Sept. 1850 87

Torch-light Ball at Corriemulzie 10 Sept. 1852 89

Account of the News of the Duke of Wellington’s Death 16 Sept. 1852 91

Building the Cairn on Craig Gowan, &c. 11 Oct. 1852 95

Laying the Foundation Stone of our New House 28 Sept. 1853 99

The Kirk 29 Oct. 1854 102

Arrival at the New Castle at Balmoral 7 Sept. 1855 103

Impressions of the New Castle 8 Sept. 1855 104

News of the Fall of Sevastopol 10 Sept. 1855 105

The Betrothal of the Princess Royal 29 Sept. 1855 107

The Kirk 14 Oct. 1855 108

Finding the Old Castle Gone 30 Aug. 1856 109

Gardens, &c. round the New Castle 31 Aug. 1856 110

Love for Balmoral 13 Oct. 1856 111

Opening of the New Bridge over the Linn of Dee 8 Sept. 1857 112

Visits to the Old Women 26 Sept. 1857 113

Visit to the Prince’s Encampment at Feithort 6 Oct. 1857 115

A Fall of Snow 18 Sept. 1858 117

Ascent of Morven 14 Sept. 1859 121

The Prince’s Return from Aberdeen 15 Sept. 1859 123

Fête to the Members of the British Association 22 Sept. 1859 124

Expedition to Inchrory 30 Sept. 1859 127

Ascent of Ben Muich Dhui 7 Oct. 1859 130

First Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie and Grantown 4 Sept. 1860 134

Second Great Expedition:--To Invermark and Fettercairn 20 Sept. 1861 144

Expedition to Loch Avon 28 Sept. 1861 153

Third Great Expedition:--To Glen Fishie, Dalwhinnie, and Blair Athole 8 Oct. 1861 156

Last Expedition 16 Oct. 1861 167

TOURS IN ENGLAND AND IRELAND, AND YACHTING EXCURSIONS.

First Visit to Ireland 2 Aug. 1849 175

Yachting Excursion 20 Aug. 1846 195

Second Yachting Excursion 2 Sept. 1846 203

Visit to the Lakes of Killarney 27 Aug. 1861 216

_Directions to the Binder._

Balmoral FRONTISPIECE.

Balmoral--The old Castle TO FACE PAGE 65

The Shiel of Alt-na-Giuthasach ” 73

Balmoral Castle from the North-West ” 111

Fording the Poll Tarf ” 164

Luncheon at Cairn Lochan ” 169

_EARLIER VISITS TO SCOTLAND._

FIRST VISIT TO SCOTLAND.

_On Board the Royal George Yacht, Monday, August 29, 1842._

At five o’clock in the morning we left _Windsor_ for the railroad, the Duchess of Norfolk, Miss Matilda Paget, General Wemyss, Colonel Bouverie, and Mr. Anson following us. Lord Liverpool, Lord Morton, and Sir James Clark, who also accompany us, had already gone on to _Woolwich_.

We reached _London_ at a quarter to six, got into our carriages, and arrived at _Woolwich_ before seven. Albert and I immediately stepped into our barge. There was a large crowd to see us embark. The Duke of Cambridge, Lord Jersey, Lord Haddington, Lord Bloomfield, and Sir George Cockburn were present in full uniform. Sir George handed me into the barge. It was raining very hard when we got on board, and therefore we remained in our sitting-room.

I annex a list of our squadron:—

1. The ship “Pique,” 36 guns.

2. The sloop “Daphne,” 18 guns--(both of which join us at the _Nore_).

3. The steam-vessel “Salamander” (with the carriages on board).

4. The steam-vessel “Rhadamanthus” (Lord Liverpool and Lord Morton on board).

5. The steam-vessel “Monkey” Tender, which has towed us till nine o’clock (Mr. Anson and the equerries on board).

6. The steam-vessel “Shearwater,” which is now towing us (Sir James Clark on board).

7. The steam-vessel “Black Eagle” (which has the ladies on board, and which tows us in front of the “Shearwater”).

8. The steam-vessel “Lightning” (with the Jäger Benda, and our two dogs, “Eôs” and “Cairnach,” on board) in front, which has gone to take our barge on board from the “Pique.”

9. The steam-vessel “Fearless” (for survey).

This composes our squadron, besides which the Trinity-House steamer goes with us, and, also, a packet. Innumerable little pleasure steamboats have been following us covered with people.

_Tuesday, August 30._

We heard, to our great distress, that we had only gone 58 miles since eight o’clock last night. How annoying and provoking this is! We remained on deck all day lying on sofas; the sea was very rough towards evening, and I was very ill. We reached _Flamborough Head_ on the Yorkshire coast by half-past five.

_Wednesday, August 31._

At five o’clock in the morning we heard, to our great vexation, that we had only been going three knots an hour in the night, and were 50 miles from _St. Abb’s Head_.

We passed _Coquet Island_ and _Bamborough Castle_ on the Northumberland coast, which I was unfortunately unable to see; but from my cabin I saw _Ferne Island_, with Grace Darling’s lighthouse on it; also _Rocky Islands_ and _Holy Island_. At half-past five I went on deck, and immediately lay down. We then came in sight of the Scotch coast, which is very beautiful, so dark, rocky, bold, and wild, totally unlike our coast. We passed _St. Abb’s Head_ at half-past six. Numbers of fishing-boats (in one of which was a piper playing) and steamers full of people came out to meet us, and on board of one large steamer they danced a reel to a band. It was a beautiful evening, calm, with a fine sunset, and the air so pure.

One cannot help noticing how much longer the days are here than they were in _England_. It was not really dark till past eight o’clock, and on Monday and Tuesday evening at _Windsor_ it was nearly dark by half-past seven, quite so before eight. The men begged leave to dance, which they did to the sound of a violin played by a little sailor-boy; they also sang.

We remained on deck till twenty-five minutes to nine, and saw many bonfires on the Scotch coast--at _Dunbar_--Lord Haddington’s place, _Tyninghame_, and at other points on the coast. We let off four rockets, and burned two blue lights. It is surprising to see the sailors climb on the bowsprit and up to the top of the mast-head--this too at all times of the day and night. The man who carried the lantern to the main-top ran up with it in his mouth to the top. They are so handy and so well conducted.

We felt most thankful and happy that we were near our journey’s end.

_Thursday, September 1._

At a quarter to one o’clock, we heard the anchor let down--a welcome sound. At seven we went on deck, where we breakfasted. Close on one side were _Leith_ and the high hills towering over _Edinburgh_, which was in fog; and on the other side was to be seen the _Isle of May_ (where it is said Macduff held out against Macbeth), the _Bass Rock_ being behind us. At ten minutes past eight we arrived at _Granton Pier_, where we were met by the Duke of Buccleuch, Sir Robert Peel and others. They came on board to see us, and Sir Robert told us that the people were all in the highest good-humour, though naturally a little disappointed at having waited for us yesterday. We then stepped over a gangway on to the pier, the people cheering, and the Duke saying that he begged to be allowed to welcome us. Our ladies and gentlemen had landed before us, safe and well, and we two got into a barouche, the ladies and gentlemen following. The Duke, the equerries, and Mr. Anson rode.

There were, however, not nearly so many people in _Edinburgh_, though the crowd and crush were such that one was really continually in fear of accidents. More regularity and order would have been preserved had there not been some mistake on the part of the Provost about giving due notice of our approach. The impression _Edinburgh_ has made upon us is very great; it is quite beautiful, totally unlike anything else I have seen; and what is even more, Albert, who has seen so much, says it is unlike anything _he_ ever saw; it is so regular, everything built of massive stone, there is not a brick to be seen anywhere. The _High Street_, which is pretty steep, is very fine. Then the Castle, situated on that grand rock in the middle of the town, is most striking. On the other side the _Calton Hill_, with the _National Monument_, a building in the Grecian style; _Nelson’s Monument_; _Burns’ Monument_; the _Gaol_; the _National School_, &c.; all magnificent buildings, and with _Arthur’s Seat_ in the background, over-topping the whole, form altogether a splendid spectacle. The enthusiasm was very great, and the people very friendly and kind. The Royal Archers Body Guard[2] met us and walked with us the whole way through the town. It is composed entirely of noblemen and gentlemen, and they all walked close by the carriage; but were dreadfully pushed about. Amongst them were the Duke of Roxburgh and Lord Elcho on my side; and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. Lord Elcho[3] (whom I did not know at the time) pointed out the various monuments and places to me as we came along. When we were out of the town, we went faster. Every cottage is built of stone, and so are all the walls that are used as fences.

[2] The Duke of Buccleuch told me the other day, that the Archers Guard was established by James I., and was composed of men who were mounted and armed from head to foot, and who were bound always to be near the Sovereign’s person. At Flodden Field, King James IV.’s body, it is said, was found covered and surrounded by the bodies of the Archers Guard.

[3] Now Earl of Wemyss.

The country and people have quite a different character from _England_ and the English. The old women wear close caps, and all the children and girls are bare-footed. I saw several handsome girls and children with long hair; indeed all the poor girls from sixteen and seventeen down to two or three years old, have loose flowing hair; a great deal of it red.

As we came along we saw _Craigmillar Castle_, a ruin, where Mary, Queen of Scots, used to live. We reached _Dalkeith_ at eleven; a large house, constructed of reddish stone, the greater part built by the Duchess of Monmouth, and the park is very fine and large. The house has three fronts, with the entrance on the left as you drive up. The

Duchess of Buccleuch arrived directly after us, and we were shown up a very handsome staircase to our rooms, which are very comfortable. We both felt dreadfully tired and giddy.

We drove out together. The park is very extensive, with a beautiful view of _Arthur’s Seat_ and the _Pentland Hills_; and there is a pretty drive overhanging a deep valley. At eight we dined--a large party. Everybody was very kind and civil, and full of inquiries as to our voyage.

_Dalkeith House, Friday, September 2._

At breakfast I tasted the oatmeal porridge, which I think very good, and also some of the “Finnan haddies.” We then walked out. The pleasure-grounds seem very extensive and beautiful, wild and hilly. We walked down along the stream (the river _Esk_), up a steep bank to a little cottage, and came home by the upper part of the walk. At four o’clock we drove out with the Duchess of Buccleuch and the Duchess of Norfolk--the Duke and equerries riding--the others in another carriage. We drove through _Dalkeith_, which was full of people, all running and cheering.

Albert says that many of the people look like Germans. The old women with that kind of cap which they call a “mutch,” and the young girls and children with flowing hair, and many of them pretty, are very picturesque; you hardly see any women with bonnets.

Such a thick “Scotch mist” came on that we were obliged to drive home through the village of _Lasswade_, and through Lord Melville’s Park, which is very fine.

_Saturday, September 3._

At ten o’clock we set off--we two in the barouche--all the others following, for _Edinburgh_. We drove in under _Arthur’s Seat_, where the crowd began to be very great, and here the Guard of Royal Archers met us; Lord Elcho walking near me, and the Duke of Roxburgh and Sir J. Hope on Albert’s side. We passed by _Holyrood Chapel_, which is very old and full of interest, and _Holyrood Palace_, a royal-looking old place. The procession moved through the _Old Town_ up the _High Street_, which is a most extraordinary street from the immense height of the houses, most of them being eleven stories high, and different families living in each story. Every window was crammed full of people. They showed us _Knox’s House_, a curious old building, as is also the _Regent Murray’s House_, which is in perfect preservation. In the _Old Town_ the _High Church_, and _St. Paul’s_ in the _New Town_, are very fine buildings. At the barrier, the Provost presented us with the keys.

The girls of the _Orphan Asylum_, and the Trades in old costumes, were on a platform. Further on was the _New Church_, to which--strange to say, as the church is nearly finished--they were going to lay the foundation stone. We at length reached the Castle, to the top of which we walked.