Part 2

Rice (How to Cook) 100

” ‘alla Casalinga’ 101

” Croquettes 101

” with Tomatoes. No. 1 102

” ” ” No. 2 103

” with Prawns 103

” with Quails 104

” ‘alla Ristori’ 104

Risotto ‘alla Milanese.’ No. 1 104

” ” No. 2 105

” with Peas 105

” ‘alla Poggio Gherardo’ 106

SALADS

Artichoke Salad 106

Beetroot Salad 107

Broccoli Salad 107

Cabbage Salad 107

‘Alla Cardinale’ Salad 107

Cauliflower Salad 108

Celery Salad 108

Cucumber and Tomato Salad 108

‘All’ Egiziana’ Salad 109

French Beans Salad 109

‘All’ Italiana’ Salad 109

Lettuce Salad 109

” ” ‘alla Francese’ 110

” ” with Veal (or Fish) 110

‘Alla Macedoine’ Salad 111

‘Alla Pollastra’ Salad 111

Potato Salad. No. 1 111

” ” No. 2 112

” ” No. 3 112

” ” No. 4 113

‘Alla Russa’ Salad 113

Spanish Onion Salad 113

Summer Salad. No. 1 114

” ” No. 2 114

Tomato Salad. No. 1 114

” ” No. 2 115

” ” No. 3 115

” ” No. 4 115

” ” No. 5 116

” Jelly Salad 116

Tomatoes and Celery (Salad of) 117

Watercress Salad 117

SAUCES

Roux for Sauces 117

Agro Dolce Sauce 118

Bearnese Sauce 118

Béchamel Sauce. No. 1 119

” ” No. 2 119

” ” No. 3 119

” ” (_Maigre_) No. 4 120

Broccoli (Sauce for) 120

Caper Sauce 121

” ” ‘alla Genovese’ 121

” ” ‘alla Milanese’ 121

” ” (Cold) 122

Butter Sauce. No. 1 122

” ” No. 2 (Melted Butter) 122

Francese Sauce 123

Lombarda Sauce 123

Mayonnaise Sauce 123

” ” ‘alla Monte Bianco’ 124

” ” ‘alla Ravigote’ 124

Olandese Sauce 124

‘Alla Panna’ Sauce 125

Suprema Sauce. No. 1 125

” ” No. 2 125

Tartara Sauce. No. 1 126

” ” No. 2 126

Tomato Sauce. No. 1 126

” ” No. 2 127

Ve lutata Sauce 127

Sorrel Purée 128

” ” (_Maigre_) 128

” ” Stewed 128

SOUPS

Artichoke Soup 128

” ” (Purée) 129

Asparagus Soup 129

Carrot Soup 130

Chestnut Soup 130

Lentil Soup. No. 1 130

” ” No. 2 131

Lettuce Soup 131

Potato Soup ‘alla Provinciale’ 132

” ” ‘alla Romana’ 132

Pumpkin Soup. No. 1 132

” ” No. 2 133

Onion Soup. No. 1 133

” ” ‘Purée alla Soubise.’ No. 2 134

Palestine Soup 134

Pea Soup 134

Polentina ‘alla Veneziana’ 135

Sorrel Soup 135

Spinach Soup ‘alla Modenese’ 135

Tomato Soup. No. 1 136

” ” (_Maigre_) No. 2 136

Turnip Soup 137

Vegetable Soup (Mixed) 137

Vegetable and Cream Soup 137

Spinach ‘al Burro’ 138

” ‘alla Crema’ 138

” Croquettes 138

” ‘Ravioli alla Fiorentina’ 139

” Fried 139

” Pudding with Mushrooms 140

” ‘in Riccioli’ 140

” Soufflé 141

Tomatoes Broiled 141

” ‘in Conchiglia’ 142

” ‘al Forno.’ No. 1 142

” ” No. 2 142

” ” No. 3 143

” ‘Fritti’ 143

” ‘alla Graticola’ 144

” Iced 144

” ‘all’ Indiana’ 144

” ‘al Pane’ 144

” Pudding 145

Tomatoes in Purée 145

” ‘Ripieni’ 146

” ‘al Riso’ 146

” Stewed 146

” ‘in Umido’ 147

” ‘con Uova’ 147

Truffles in Champagne 147

” and Cheese 148

” Maigre 148

” in Omelette 148

” ‘alla Panna’ 149

” ‘Sautés’ 149

” Stewed 150

” ‘sul tovagliolo’ 150

ITALIAN RECIPES

INTRODUCTION

_About the cooking of Vegetables._

Vegetables should be well washed in cold water to remove insects and dust; if not fresh gathered, leave them some time in cold water, and remember that they take longer to cook than fresh ones. Green vegetables must be put into salted water (one tablespoonful of salt to every two quarts of water) and rapidly cooked over a brisk fire in an open sauce-pan until they are tender. All green vegetables should be removed from the water as soon as cooked, and be well drained before adding the seasoning.

_About Sauces._

So much depends on sauces that only the best ingredients should be used in making them. Rancid or impure oil or bad butter will ruin sauces and salads. Both butter and oil should always be tasted before buying, as good cookery is impossible unless they are perfectly fresh and good in every way; butter must be added to sauces in small bits, or it will form a greasy line. To skim sauces, take the sauce-pan off the fire and put in a teaspoonful of cold water, which will make the grease rise. Remember that wine increases the taste of salt, so when wine is used in a sauce put in very little salt until after the wine has been added.

_About Eggs._

Eggs must be _quite_ fresh, if they taste of straw the sauce will be spoiled. They should therefore be broken one at a time into a saucer and examined before using. A pinch of salt added to the whites of eggs makes them whisk better, and none of the yolk must be allowed to get mixed in.

_About Spices._

The following is a good recipe for the spices so necessary in cooking: Half an ounce of cloves, two ounces of nutmeg, half an ounce of sweet basil, half an ounce of white pepper, two ounces of cinnamon, one quarter of an ounce of dried bay leaves, half an ounce of thyme. Pound well together, then pass through a sieve, and put them into a bottle, or box, hermetically closed to preserve the perfume.

_About a Bouquet._

Take one bay leaf, one sprig of thyme, two cloves, and one stalk of well-washed celery, place round these six sprigs of parsley, fold and tie them so that the cloves, etc., cannot fall out.

_About Onion Juice._

Onion juice is obtained by grating an onion on a coarse grater, after peeling it. Press hard, and each stroke will give one drop of juice.

_About Maccaroni and Spaghetti Paste._

For every quarter of a pound of flour use one egg and two tablespoonfuls of warm salted water. Take as much flour as needful, make a hole in the centre, and put in the water and the eggs. Beat them up with a spoon, mixing the flour in gradually, then knead well. Roll the paste into very thin sheets, and place them on a clean cloth to dry for half an hour. This paste will not keep more than one, or one and a half days, and must always be put into boiling water or broth to cook. If soaked before cooking the flavour is spoiled.

_About blanching Maccaroni and Spaghetti._

Put an earthenware pot, filled with water, on the fire, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, and boil. Put in three-quarters of a pound of fresh maccaroni, twisting it round carefully so as not to break it. Boil for seventeen minutes, then remove from the fire; drain, and put it in cold water; drain again, and it is ready for use. Spaghetti are blanched the same way.

_About Croûtons._

To make croûtons, cut bread into whatever shape you want. Take off the crust, dip the pieces into melted butter, and toast in the oven, turn often in order to colour evenly, or fry them in boiling oil or fat. They must be crisp and of a light brown colour.

_About a Bain-Marie._

A Bain-Marie is a large copper pan placed on the fire, and containing boiling water in which are put smaller pans with anything to be kept hot, or cooked without boiling. Milk is better cooked in Bain-Marie, than in a sauce-pan on the fire.

RECIPES

_Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul.’_

Clean and cut straight the under leaves of three large French artichokes, boil them sufficiently to be able to take out the chokes, and put them in cold water for five minutes. Drain thoroughly, then fill the hole left by the choke with forcemeat made of half an ounce of minced salt pork, two shallots, six mushrooms minced, a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper, and grated nutmeg, mixed well together. Tie up the artichokes with string, heat three tablespoonfuls of good olive oil in a pan, and brown them well on both sides. Then place your artichokes in a sauté-pan, and put a small slice of fresh pork, or a bit of good butter, on the top of each; add a tumbler of broth, bake for forty minutes in oven, then place on a hot dish, and serve, pouring the sauce in the pan over them.

_Artichokes ‘alla Barigoul’ (maigre)._

Parboil three fine French artichokes for three minutes, drain, pare the tips and the bottoms, and remove the chokes. Then place them in a sauce-pan with a tablespoonful of fresh butter, a carrot and an onion sliced up, and very little salt. Cook a shallot (minced up) with a tablespoonful of butter for three minutes (being careful not to let it brown), add ten minced mushrooms, a tablespoonful of chopped-up parsley, a teaspoonful of chopped-up chervil, and a little salt and pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring often. Stuff the artichokes with this, and put a whole mushroom on the top of each artichoke. Bake in a hot oven, adding a wine-glassful of white wine and a tumbler of vegetable soup; close the pan and cook for forty minutes. Add a quarter of a pint of sauce ‘Vellutata’ (see Sauces, p. 127) to the sauce of the artichokes, heat, but do not boil; strain, and serve in a sauce-boat separately.

_Artichokes ‘Farciti.’_

Boil and drain twelve young artichokes. Chop up four ounces of boiled ham and one pound of chicken-meat fine, add two tablespoonfuls of cream, one teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a little pepper and salt, and some grated nutmeg. Fill each artichoke with this compound, put into a well-buttered frying-pan, and bake for a quarter of an hour in a hot oven. Serve hot with ‘Alla Panna’ sauce (see Sauces, p. 125).

_Artichokes ‘al Forno.’_

Boil eight or ten young artichokes, then dry them well. Put a small piece of onion on the top of each artichoke, wrap each in a slice of ham, and stand them upright in a sauce-pan. In another sauce-pan make your stuffings: four ounces of fine white lard cut up small, a quart of broth, six mushrooms and a little parsley chopped up fine. Boil, and when cooked pour this compound into each artichoke, put them into the oven (not too hot) for about three-quarters of an hour. Before serving be careful to remove any ham that has remained attached to the artichokes, and pour some sauce ‘Olandese’ (see Sauces, p. 124) over them.

_Artichokes ‘alla Francese.’_

Cut your artichokes into four or eight pieces according to their size, remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and boil. Then sprinkle them with lemon, and, to prevent them from turning brown, put them into hot water with a good deal of vinegar. Drain well before serving, and after putting them on a dish, pour a sauce made of pepper, salt, fine olive oil, and a little vinegar over them, and serve hot.

_Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ No. 1._

Wash your artichokes and cut them into slices. When drained put them into an earthen pot with some salt, pepper, fine olive oil, and a few drops of vinegar. Put two yolks of eggs, one whole egg, a little water, and some fine olive oil, into a frying-pan, and mix well together. Throw the slices of artichoke into the frying-pan, stirring them well. When they have taken a good colour remove them from the fire, strain them, put them on a napkin in a dish, garnish with fried parsley and serve very hot.

_Artichokes ‘Fritti.’ No. 2._

Cut eight or ten young artichokes into slices lengthways, take out the chokes and cut off the ends of the leaves, and throw them into vinegar and water; drain and dip them in the following batter:--two tablespoonfuls of flour, the yolk of one egg, one spoonful of good olive oil, and two tablespoonfuls of milk. Stir well; add one tablespoonful of brandy (or water), pepper and salt to taste, and let it stand for some hours. Before using whisk two whites of egg to a stiff froth and beat it in.

_Artichokes ‘alla Graticola.’_

Wash your artichokes well, remove the stalks, the hard leaves, and the points of the leaves; cut them in halves, and cook them on a gridiron. Then sprinkle them with salt, some fine olive oil, and a little pepper, and squeeze a few drops of lemon juice over them just before serving up hot.

_Artichokes ‘all’ Italiana.’_

Clean the artichokes and remove the hard outside leaves. Boil them well and leave them to drain. Arrange them on a dish and pour a sauce ‘Tartara, No. 1’ (see Sauces, p. 126) over them. Serve up quickly.

_Artichokes ‘alla Lionese.’_

Remove the stalk and the hard leaves, cut your artichoke into pieces, then wash and drain them. Butter the bottom of a sauce-pan well, put in the pieces of artichoke, sprinkle them with salt and pepper, and cook them with a slow fire above and below until they take a golden colour. When quite cooked, arrange them on a dish, and pour some fried fresh butter over them, into which a pinch of sugar and three tablespoonfuls of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125) has been put. Serve up very hot.

_Artichokes ‘alla Milanese.’_

Put your boiled artichokes into an earthenware pot after greasing it well with fresh butter, then place a bit of butter in the centre of each artichoke and sprinkle them with some finely grated Parmesan cheese of the best quality. Cover the pot and cook over a slow fire, taking care that the artichokes should not boil for too long. Just before serving up, pour some more melted butter over them.

_Artichokes ‘alla Spagnuola.’_

Remove the stalks and the hard leaves, and wash three (or more) artichokes well and cut them into pieces. Boil, then drain, put them into a sauce-pan with some pepper, five tablespoonfuls of sauce ‘Suprema’ (see Sauces, p. 125), five of Consommé, and then put them on the fire for half an hour. Boil again for half an hour with fire above and below, before serving them up hot.

_Artichokes ‘al Vapore.’_

Remove the hard outside leaves of the artichokes, but leave a little of the stalk. Then place them upright in a small sauce-pan with a little water which must not quite cover the artichokes. Open out the artichokes and pour into the centre of each a sauce made of pepper, salt, and fine olive oil. Then cover the sauce-pan and be careful to boil the water well, so as to steam the artichokes thoroughly.

N.B.--Artichokes are eaten when barely half-grown in Italy.

* * * * *

_Asparagus ‘alla Borghese.’_

Take a bundle of asparagus, scrape the white of each stalk lightly, and put them into cold water. Then tie them in bundles of twenty-five (or, if very large, of twelve or fifteen), keep the heads together, and cut the ends of one length. Cook them quickly for fifteen minutes in one gallon of boiling water in which two ounces of salt has been put. Dish them up on a piece of toast, serve very hot, with melted fresh butter, or sauce ‘Alla Panna,’ or ‘All’ Olandese’ (see Sauces, pp. 124, 125).

_Asparagus ‘alla Casalinga.’_

Take four pounds of asparagus and cook the green part in boiling salted water. Then drain, and put the asparagus into a baking-dish with four ounces of fresh butter, sprinkle with grated cheese, salt and pepper to taste, brown slightly, garnish with eggs fried in butter, and serve hot.

_Asparagus, cold._

Cut the ends of your asparagus so as to have them of equal length, and boil in salted water. When cold lay them on a dish, and, just before serving, pour over them a sauce made of good olive oil, white wine vinegar, salt, and pepper. (If preferred, a white sauce can be used instead of oil and vinegar.)

_Asparagus ‘alla Crema.’_

Take the heads only of the asparagus (two or three pounds as required) and put them into boiling water with a little salt. Boil for about fifteen minutes, and prepare meanwhile some square pieces of roll or white bread, without the crust. Scoop out the centre of each piece and put in a bit of butter, then fry (or bake) until the bread turns a good yellow colour. After draining the heads of the asparagus place them in the holes in the bread, taking care to keep them hot. Then boil half a pint of milk, add four yolks of eggs, and stir till solid. Take it off the fire, add a little butter, a sprinkling of salt and pepper, pour over the asparagus and bread, and serve up hot.

_Asparagus ‘Fritto.’_

Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus, boil them in slightly salted water for about fifteen minutes, and then strain. Put half a tumbler of cream, in which the yolk of an egg and two ounces of butter have been well beaten up, into a frying-pan, add a tablespoonful of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, and stir slowly over the fire for five or six minutes. Then fry your asparagus heads in it and serve very hot.

_Asparagus ‘ai Gamberi.’_

Cut the tender heads of the asparagus in equal lengths and boil them, then pickle them in good olive oil, salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Stick a hunch of bread into the centre of a dish, cover it with sauce ‘Mayonnaise,’ and place the asparagus heads (over which you have just squeezed some lemon juice) round and over it. Garnish the dish with sauce ‘Mayonnaise’ (see Sauces, p. 123) and crayfish tails, and serve. Some jelly will be an addition.

_Asparagus ‘in Istufato.’_

Cut the heads off a bunch of asparagus and wash them well in cold salted water. Strain, and when dry put them into a sauce-pan with a tablespoonful of flour, four ounces of butter, half a pint of cream (or milk), and a little salt and pepper. Leave them on the fire until they begin to boil, then remove, and serve up hot.

_Asparagus tips ‘all’ Italiana.’_

Prepare about 200 asparagus tips two or two and a half inches long, half cook, and then drain them. Put them in a baking-pan with fresh butter and strong gravy, taking care that they should be well glacées. Cook fifteen or eighteen eggs for five minutes, shell them and keep them warm in hot water. Pile a stiff purée of potatoes dome-shaped on a dish, arrange your asparagus heads (pointing upwards) round it, heat the dish well, and stand your eggs upright all round, pouring a white sauce over them. Serve very hot.

_Asparagus ‘all’ Olandese.’_