Lassen Trails: A Brief Guide to the Trails of Lassen Volcanic National Park
Part 2
Starting where Trails No. 8 and 9 start, 0.2 mile from the road the left trail fork is followed, and the trail passes through forests and other natural features similar to No. 8 and 9. A number of good views of Lassen Peak can be seen along the way. For wildflowers it is one of the best in the park for variety, with lupine, scarlet gilia, red and blue penstemon, monkshood, columbine, and many others.
After separating from the Terrace Lake trail it goes through open forests, then descends rapidly before crossing the east fork of Hat Creek. Just past this crossing the Paradise Meadows trail turns to the right (south) while the Hat Creek trail turns to the left. The short trip to Paradise Meadows is well worth the time, for here you can find one of the outstanding wildflower displays of the park. The Hat Creek trail descends through the forests to the Devastated Area and Hat Lake, reaching the park road at guide marker 42. By arranging transportation at Hat Lake, the hike is an easy one, taking about 2½ hours. The round trip will require 6 or 7 hours.
11. COLD BOILING AND CRUMBAUGH LAKES, CONARD MEADOWS, MILL CREEK FALLS, AND SULPHUR WORKS CAMPGROUND
Starting Point: Kings Creek Campground Distances: Cold Boiling Lake, 0.8 mile; Crumbaugh Lake, 1.3; Conard Meadows, 2.2; Mill Creek Falls, 3; Sulphur Works Campground 5.3; all distances one way Topography: Downhill 800 feet to campground Time: Cold Boiling Lake, ¾ hour; Crumbaugh Lake 1½ hours; Conard Meadows, 2 hours; Sulphur Works Campground, 4 hours. For round trips times should be at least doubled Features: Forests, flowers, waterfalls, lakes, scenic views, streams
This little-traveled area is excellent for birds, wildflowers, and deer. Cold Boiling Lake is so named because gas bubbles are continually rising at some points near the shore. The meadow by Crumbaugh Lake has a variety of wildflowers and Conard Meadows is ideal for wildlife. There are no fish in either lake, as they will not live when introduced.
The trail is fairly level to Cold Boiling Lake, and then descends to Crumbaugh Lake. It is level to Conard Meadows, and from there to Mill Creek Falls descends by a steep grade (see Mill Creek Falls trail). A one-way trip to the Sulphur Works campground, arranging for transportation at the lower end, makes an ideal, easy, half-day hike.
12. KINGS CREEK FALLS
Starting Point: Guide Marker 32 Distances: 3 miles round trip Topography: Descent of 700 feet Time: 2½ hours Features: Waterfalls, cascades, forest, flowers
About half a mile down, the trail splits. It is recommended that the left trail be followed downhill, where it rejoins the other section. The right fork follows the cascades, and is much easier to climb on the return trip. The trail goes down through pine and fir forests, and over a meadow where flowers bloom all summer. Here one can find the leopard lily, grass-of-parnassus, and many others. Watch for glacial polishing on the rocks along the way.
Morning is the best time to photograph the falls, as later in the day (after 2:00 p.m.) they are in shadow. The height of the falls is about 30 feet.
Follow the beautiful cascades (left) on the return trip. Watch for mountainash, as this is one of the few places one can see this small, shrublike tree that produces clumps of brilliant red berries in late August and September.
Below the falls the trail continues downhill to Drakesbad, another 2.5 miles.
13. SUMMIT LAKE TO ECHO AND TWIN LAKES
Starting Point: East side of Summit Lake, from the trail that encircles the lake Distances: Echo lake, 2 miles; Upper Twin, 3½ miles; Lower Twin, 4 miles, one way Topography: Uphill 500 feet in the first mile, descending 500 feet to Lower Twin Lake Time: Echo Lake, 1½ hours; Upper Twin, 2½ hours; Lower Twin, 3 hours, all one way. Double these times for round trips Features: Lakes, forests, flowers
This is a good nature trail, as many kinds of wildflowers, trees, and birds are found. Deer are common in the area. Swimming is good in late summer. This is also a favorite trail for overnight hikers as it leads to the wilderness area of the eastern part of the park.
Hardy hikers may wish to go beyond Twin Lakes. The trail continues past Rainbow Lake to Snag Lake, 3.5 miles, and another trail goes to Butte Lake, 5.5 miles.
14. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA UPPER TWIN LAKE
Starting Point: East side of Summit Lake Distances: 8 miles, one way Topography: Two ridges to cross, 500 feet and 300 feet Time: 6 hours one way. For round trip, it will take approximately twice the time Features: Lakes, forest, flowers, wildlife
This is one of the two main trails to the east part of the park. Horseshoe Lake can also be reached by a dirt road from Chester. If transportation can be arranged this trail will make a comparatively easy day’s hike. There is a campground at Horseshoe Lake, so it can make a good objective for an overnight hike. Hardy hikers can make the round trip in one day.
The first part of the trip is most of No. 13, and from Upper Twin Lake the trail goes south and passes close to the base of Crater Butte. Part of the trip is in open meadows and part through fir-pine forest.
An interesting variation for a round trip is to return via Grassy Swale Creek. (See No. 15, Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek.)
15. SUMMIT LAKE TO HORSESHOE LAKE VIA GRASSY SWALE CREEK
Starting Point: South end of Summit Lake campground Distances: 8 miles, one way Topography: Downgrade 700 feet during first 3 miles, then gradually upgrade 500 feet Time: 6 hours, one way. Double the time for round trip Features: Flowers, forest, lakes, wildlife, streams
Grassy Swale Creek passes through some beautiful meadows in which are found a variety of wildflowers. Sundew, a rare, insect-eating plant, may be found near the trail in the wet section of the meadow about one mile northeast of Corral Meadow. Douglas spirea also makes a colorful display here.
The trail descends along Summit Creek about 3 miles to Corral Meadow. Here it leaves the Drakesbad trail, crosses Kings Creek and follows along Grassy Swale Creek to the base of Crater Butte. It then follows on to Horseshoe Lake. It may be quite wet in places until late summer. Mosquito repellent may be needed.
This is an excellent trail for naturalists as many species of trees, flowers, birds, and mammals can be observed.
16. CLUSTER LAKES
Starting Point: Locked gate at Budget Flat. Badger Flat is 6 miles down the dirt road which leaves the Park Road at Guide Marker 41 Distances: First Cluster Lake, 2 miles; second, 2.5; Silver Lake, 3; Big Bear Lake, 4, one way Topography: Uphill 200 feet on a gradual grade Time: Round trips: 2½, 3, 4 and 5 hours respectively Features: Lakes, forest, flowers
This group of six lakes is easily reached by the trail from Badger Flat.
Mule-ears (wyethia) puts on a magnificent display in Badger Flats, and falsehellebore is prevalent in places. Spreading phlox is especially attractive in late June and early July along the beginning of the trail, and paintbrush further up, along with Newberry penstemon or pride-of-the-mountains.
The trail passes through open forested areas in a relatively level section of Lassen. After passing the second lake the trail forks. The left trail goes to Silver Lake. The trail continues over rather level terrain past Feather Lake to Lower Twin Lake, another 2 miles.
From Big Bear Lake the trail continues 3.5 miles to Summit Lake, crossing two ridges on the way.
17. PARADISE MEADOWS
Starting Point: Hat lake parking area, Guide Marker 42 Distances: 1.5 miles, one way Topography: Uphill, 600 feet Time: 2 hours, one way, 3 hours for round trip Features: Flowers, forest, stream
For wildflowers during midsummer Paradise Meadows is one of the best areas in the park. Elephanthead and gentian can be seen near Hat Lake; scarlet gilia along the first mile; and columbine, lupine, monkshood, penstemon (both red and blue), falsehellebore, and many other species will be found in the meadow area. Also, it is a good area to see birds and deer.
For about a mile the trail goes up rather steeply. At the meadows there are good views of Lassen and Reading peaks, and the cirque in which the meadows lie.
Upon reaching lower Paradise Meadows a trail turns to the right. This goes to the Park Road near Terrace Lake. (See Park Road to Hat Lake trail.)
18. CHAOS CRAGS AND CRAGS LAKE
Starting Point: The trail leaves the Manzanita Lake Camp road about 100 yards south of the store and near the creek crossing Distances: 1.8 miles, one way Topography: Uphill about 700 feet Time: 3 hours, round trip Features: Forest, flowers, recent volcanic activity, dwarfed trees
Chaos Crags were formed by lava being forced upward and hardening in place, similar to squeezing toothpaste out of a tube. Considerable volcanic activity took place in the crater at the north base of the Crags. As a result of this activity a huge landslide occurred, strewing rocks over 2½ square miles, including the area around Manzanita and Reflection lakes. This rock slide is called Chaos Jumbles.
The trail follows through pine-fir forests close to the edge of the Jumbles. Many saprophytes can be seen along the trail, together with pipsissewa and pyrolas.
The crater at the base of the Crags is filled with snow early in the season, later melting to form a small lake which may dry up toward the end of the summer.
The trees in the Jumbles are small, but in spite of their size, many are over 250 years old. From the age of the oldest trees it is estimated that the eruption and landslide occurred about 1690.
19. LILY POND
Starting Point: Across the Park Road from the Manzanita Lake Visitor Center Distances: 1 mile Topography: Level Time: 1 hour Features: Trees, flowers, shrubs, ponds, recent volcanic activity
This trail is maintained by the National Park Service primarily as a nature trail. Leaflets are available describing 43 numbered points of interest, many of which are trees, shrubs, and flowers. Ten of the 12 species of coniferous trees found in the park are along this trail. In the pond itself are aquatic plants and amphibians. The willows and alders nearby are shelters for several species of birds. Deer are frequently seen in the area, as well as ground squirrels and other small mammals. In the early summer the brilliant snowplant is quite common along the trail.
This is an excellent trail for a person to become acquainted with the flora and fauna of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Leaflets may be purchased at the trail head describing 43 points of interest.
20. MANZANITA LAKE
Starting Point: Any place along the lake Distances: 1.7 miles around the lake Topography: Level Time: 1½ hours Features: Lake, flowers, wildlife, trees, shrubs, scenic views
On the south side of the lake the trail goes through manzanita brush and open meadows. Along the west side is ponderosa pine forest with alder thickets by the lake. Along this stretch can be seen some of the few black cottonwood trees found in the park. On the north side is the road, with willow and alder thickets by the shore, and on the east side is the lodge and campground. From the west side are excellent views of Lassen Peak and Chaos Crags. A good variety of birds may be observed, including ducks, geese, coots, grebes, warblers, finches, swallows, blackbirds, sapsuckers, and nighthawks. Deer are frequently seen in the manzanita. An easy, pleasant walk.
21. MANZANITA CREEK
Starting Point: South end of Manzanita lake Campground Distances: 3.5 miles to upper meadows, one way Topography: Uphill, 1,250 feet Time: 5 hours for the round trip Features: Forest, flowers, scenic views, stream
This hike starts on a fire road that provides steady, but relatively easy climbing. The first 0.7 mile is through manzanita, and birds and smaller mammals can be observed. When the forest of red fir and lodgepole pine is reached the trail becomes much more appealing, and striking views of Chaos Crags and Lassen Peak are glimpsed through the trees.
On the last half mile, where the creek winds and tumbles through sloping meadows, the wildflower display is magnificent. Flowers bloom profusely through July and August. Walk through the upper meadows to see the Lassen paintbrush (found only in this park), the pink Lewis monkeyflower, the brilliant fireweed, both the blue and the white monkshood, and many others. Camera, binoculars, and lunch are all advisable for this trip.
22. CINDER CONE
Starting Point: West end of Butte Lake Campground Distances: 2 miles to the summit, one way. A trail continues down the south side for a round trip of 5 miles. Topography: 800 feet climbing cone Time: 3 hours to the cone summit and back, 4 hours if trail down south slope is followed back to Butte Lake Campground Features: Forest, recent volcanic activity, history, views
This is one of the most perfectly formed cinder cones in the United States, and one of the most recent. In the spring of 1851, pioneers following Emigrant, or Nobles, Trail saw the results of the previous winter’s eruption.
For persons interested in geology or photography this trail is a must. It goes through open forest for about 1.5 miles, close to the base of the cone, and the rest of the trail is in the open. The trail up the cone is fairly steep, and is in loose Cinders, making climbing similar to what it would be in loose sand. The climb is not difficult if made with frequent rest stops. High shoes or boots are advisable.
The Cinder Cone Summit commands excellent views of Lassen, Prospect, Harkness, and other mountains, of Butte and Snag Lakes, and of the Fantastic Lava Beds and Painted Dunes. A trail completely encircles the double crater, and a spur goes down into the crater. Another trail continues down the south side of the cone and encircles it, adding another mile for a 5 mile round trip. It passes near the 1851 vent from which lava flowed. This is now a small ice grotto.
Self-guiding leaflets which describe 44 numbered points of interest may be purchased at the Ranger Station.
23. PROSPECT PEAK
Starting Point: Cinder Cone Trail Marker 13 Distances: 3.5 miles to the summit Topography: 2,200 feet of climbing Time: 5 hours for the round trip of 7 miles Features: Scenic views, forest
Prospect Peak provides commanding views of Lassen, Harkness, West Prospect, Shasta, and other surrounding mountains, several lakes, and the crater of the Cinder Cone. In the early summer there is a small lake in the crater of Prospect Peak, an ancient volcano.
About a half mile from Butte Lake the trail leaves the Cinder Cone trail, and climbs steadily through ponderosa pine, fir, and sub-alpine forests to above timberline. Birds and other wildlife abound, and occasionally, bobcats or even a mountain lion may be seen.
During June and early July there is snow in the crater. No drinking water is available.
24. BATHTUB LAKE
Starting Point: Butte Lake Parking Lot Distances: 0.4 mile, one way Topography: 70 foot climb at start Time: 1 hour for the round trip Features: Lakes, forest, flowers
This is a delightful, easy walk through open ponderosa pine and fir forest to two small lakes. The first lake is a quarter mile and the second (Bathtub) a half mile from the camp. For good (not icy) swimming these lakes are recommended. And for a leisurely nature walk one can easily spend two hours looking for birds and flowers and identifying trees and shrubs.
25. BUTTE LAKE (North and East Shores)
Starting Point: Butte Lake Parking Lot Distances: 2 miles to the south end of the lake Topography: Uphill 150 feet and down along the north shore, then quite level Time: 3 hours for the round trip Features: Forest, scenic views, flowers, lake
For sheer beauty and a feeling of wilderness, this is an excellent trail. Good views of the lake and the Cinder Cone are frequent. Deer and a variety of birds, trees, and flowers may be observed.
In the first mile the trail ascends a hill overlooking the lake. After crossing Butte Creek it follows close to the shore to the south end.
From the south end of the lake the trail continues 2.5 miles to Snag Lake and another 3 miles to either Juniper or Horseshoe lakes. (See Trail No. 27, Butte Lake to Snag Lake; No. 28, Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake; and No. 29, Juniper Lake to Snag Lake.)
26. WIDOW LAKE
Starting Point: Butte Lake Parking Lot Distances: 4 miles, one way Topography: Climb of 1,000 feet Time: 5½ hours for the round trip Features: Lake, forest, scenic views
The first 2 miles is trail No. 25, Butte Lake. From the Widow Lake trail are scenic views of Cinder Cone, Lassen Peak, Prospect Peak, Mount Harkness, and many other mountains of the vicinity. From the south end of Butte Lake the trail climbs rapidly, about 1,000 feet in 2 miles.
From Widow Lake the trail continues south, past the Red Cinder Cone to Jakey Lake (6 miles), and on to Juniper Lake (10 miles).
27. BUTTE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
Starting Point: Butte Lake Parking Lot Distances: 6.5 miles to south end of Snag Lake, one way Topography: Rise of 100 feet Time: 5 hours round trip to north end of Snag Lake, 8 hours round trip to south end of Snag Lake Features: Lakes, recent volcanic activity, forest, flowers
The first 2 miles is Trail No. 25, Butte Lake. From the south end of Butte Lake there are two trails. One, not maintained by the Park Service, goes by the base of the lava flow, and the other goes through the forest to Snag Lake. Along the lava flow one can easily picture the volcanic activity as the trail winds close to huge basalt blocks.
The two trails come together at the bay on the east shore and one trail continues to the south end of the lake. From this point a trail leads to Juniper Lake, another to Horseshoe Lake, and another around Snag Lake and back to Butte Lake via the Cinder Cone. The total distances from Butte Lake are: to Juniper or Horseshoe lakes, 10 miles; and around Snag Lake and the Cinder Cone back to Butte Lake, 13 miles.
28. HORSESHOE LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
Starting Point: Horseshoe Lake Ranger Station Distances: 3 miles, one way, to southern end of Snag lake Topography: Descent of 600 feet Time: 3½ hours, round trip Features: Lakes, stream, flowers, forest, history
In the meadow northeast of the Horseshoe Lake Ranger Station the remains of an early settler’s cabin can be seen, and many wildflowers and birds. The trail follows Grassy Creek much of the way to Snag Lake.
Snag Lake was created by lava flows from Cinder Cone damming Grassy Creek. The trees that were killed slowly rotted and fell into the lake, but in the early days of the park there were many standing snags to be seen. Since the lake seeps through lava, the level varies considerably from year to year and season to season, depending on the rains.
Trails follow both the east and west sides of Snag Lake, continuing to Butte Lake. (See Trail No. 27.)
29. JUNIPER LAKE TO SNAG LAKE
Starting Point: Juniper Lake Ranger Station Distances: 3 miles, one way, to southern end of Snag Lake Topography: Climb 240 feet in first half mile, followed by a descent of 1,000 feet Time: 4½ hours, round trip Features: Lakes, stream, flowers, forest, history
Wildflowers bloom profusely in Cameron Meadows during July and often into August, and it is a good area for birds and deer. Here, also, are the remains of an early settler’s cabin.
The trail is shaded by ponderosa pine and fir forest most of the way, except for a short stretch at Cameron Meadows. From here it swings close to the east fork of Grassy Creek and continues on to Snag Lake.
From Snag Lake Trail No. 27 continues on to Butte Lake.
30. INSPIRATION POINT
Starting Point: Juniper Lake Ranger Station Distances: 0.8 mile to the overlook Topography: Climb of 400 feet Time: 2½ hours for the round trip Features: Scenic views, forest
Inspiration Point is well named, as it affords some of the finest views of Lassen, Harkness, Prospect, and more distant mountains. Snag, Butte, and Juniper lakes are in full view, as well as Cameron Meadows and Cinder Cone. To the southeast of the trail, as you approach Inspiration Point, look for the fine specimens of western juniper. The trail climbs steadily through western white pine and red fir timber to the open area of the point. Various birds may be seen as well as deer and small mammals.
31. CRYSTAL LAKE
Starting Point: From along the road on the east side of Juniper Lake about a mile from the ranger station Distances: 0.4 mile, one way Topography: Climb of 450 feet Time: 1 hour, round trip Features: Lake, scenic views, forest
This lake lies in a cirque below the Crystal Cliffs. From the trail are views of Juniper Lake, Lassen and other peaks. Many consider it the most beautiful lake in Lassen. A relatively easy hike through forests and meadows surrounding the lake.
32. MOUNT HARKNESS
Starting Point: Juniper Lake near campground at the southeast end Distances: 2 miles to the summit of Mount Harkness Topography: 1,300-foot climb Time: 4 hours for the round trip Features: Forest, scenic views
The trail winds upward through the pine-fir forest. On top of Mount Harkness is the only fire lookout station in the park. From it are outstanding views of Juniper Lake and Lassen, Brokeoff, Prospect, and other peaks in the park, as well as the Sierra to the south and other mountains to the east and north. On top, the brilliant red bloom of the smooth cycladenia brightens the rocky slopes during July.
The lookout is staffed during the summer months and usually these people are glad to have visitors provided water or food are not requested. All of their supplies must be packed to the mountain top.