Part 1

LASSEN TRAILS

By STEPHEN H. MATTESON Former Seasonal Naturalist

Illustrations by Dorothy Matteson

_A brief guide to the Trails of Lassen Volcanic National Park_

Copyright 1963 Loomis Museum Association Third Printing 1970 Produced in cooperation with the National Park Service

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page Preface 3 Introduction 4 Using the Trails: A Few Tips for Beginners 5 The Trails: 1. Forest Lake and Brokeoff Mountain 10 2. Mill Creek Falls 12 3. Ridge Lakes 13 4. Sulphur Works Hot Springs 14 5. Bumpass Hell 16 6. Bumpass Hell to Cold Boiling Lake and Kings Creek Campground 18 7. Lassen Peak 20 8. Terrace, Shadow, and Cliff Lakes 22 9. Park Road to Summit Lake 23 10. Park Road to Hat Lake 24 11. Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes, Conard Meadows, Mill Creek Falls, and Sulphur Works Campground 25 12. Kings Creek Falls 26 13. Summit Lake to Echo and Twin Lakes 27 14. Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Upper Twin Lake 30 15. Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek 32 16. Cluster Lakes 33 17. Paradise Meadows 34 18. Chaos Crags and Crags Lake 36 19. Lily Pond 37 20. Manzanita Lake 38 21. Manzanita Creek 39 22. Cinder Cone 40 23. Prospect Peak 42 24. Bathtub Lake 43 25. Butte Lake (North and East Shores) 44 26. Widow Lake 45 27. Butte Lake to Snag Lake 46 28. Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake 47 29. Juniper Lake to Snag Lake 48 30. Inspiration Point 50 31. Crystal Lake 51 32. Mount Harkness 52 33. Boiling Springs Lake 54 34. Devil’s Kitchen 55 Map of Lassen Volcanic National Park 28-29

PREFACE

Since most of Lassen Volcanic National Park can best be seen and enjoyed by walking the trails, this booklet is written to help those who wish to know more about the park. Much can be observed from the Lassen Park Road, including some of the best scenery and most interesting geology, but to become thoroughly acquainted with the park and to appreciate fully what it has to offer, there is no better way than walking the trails.

Thirty-four trails are briefly described in this booklet. Rather than give a complete description of each trail, an attempt is made to indicate the highlights of each, giving enough information so that a hiker can decide which trails will interest him most.

The author would like to express his thanks and appreciation to a number of persons who have helped to make this publication possible: To Raymond L. Nelson, former Chief Park Naturalist, for guidance and sketch maps; Lester D. Bodine, former Chief Park Ranger; Harold L. Stanley, Robert Ball, and H. Trickey Lewis, seasonal rangers, for their aid and information; and to Dorothy Matteson, art department of Chico State College for the excellent illustrations.

INTRODUCTION

Lassen Volcanic National Park, established on August 9, 1916, and containing more than 160 square miles, is administered by the National Park Service, U. S. Department of the Interior.

The National Park System, of which this park is a unit, is dedicated to conserving the scenic, scientific, and historic heritage of the United States for the benefit and enjoyment of its people.

Created in 1849, the Department of the Interior—America’s Department of Natural Resources—is concerned with the management, conservation, and development of the Nation’s water, wildlife, mineral, forest, and park and recreation resources. It also has major responsibilities for Indian and Territorial affairs.

As the Nation’s principal conservation agency, the Department works to assure that nonrenewable resources are developed and used wisely, that park and recreational resources are conserved for the future, and that renewable resources make their full contribution to the progress, prosperity, and security of the United States—now and in the future.

USING THE TRAILS: A FEW TIPS FOR BEGINNERS

1. STAY ON THE TRAIL. This is usually a simple matter, but in a few places animal trails obscure the main trail. On some trails orange markers are nailed to trees to guide the hiker, and, on others, rock cairns mark the way.

2. AVOID SHORT CUTS. In the long run, they are not short cuts, as they use up more energy and are more tiring than the somewhat longer trail. They are often dangerous to the person using them and, also, dislodged rocks may injure hikers below. In addition, they always damage the trail by filling it with debris and by accelerating erosion.

3. KEEP YOUR BEARINGS. In Lassen Volcanic there are plenty of landmarks, so this should not be difficult. A good map will help, and topographic maps of Lassen are available. If you are going to return via the same trail and have any doubts about remaining on it, use the Indian method of looking back frequently.

4. BE CAREFUL WITH FIRE. A campfire should be soaked and the ashes thoroughly mixed with water until every ember is out. To build a campfire anywhere except at a regular campground you must secure a special permit from a Park Ranger. Do not smoke while hiking on the trails. When you want a smoke, sit down, break your match before throwing it away and completely extinguish the butt before leaving.

5. KEEP TOGETHER. It is the person who is separated from the rest who gets lost.

6. CONSERVE YOUR STRENGTH. The elevations in Lassen Volcanic are considerably higher than most people are used to, and you may tire more easily. If you start out at a pace which seems slow you are more likely to finish than if you hurry. Rest often.

7. CARRY A LIGHT AND COMFORTABLE PACK.

8. CARRY YOUR OWN WATER unless you know the area. The water in the streams should be pure, but the National Park Service cannot guarantee it against human pollution. Snow may be used, but only a little at a time, in order to prevent cramps.

9. KEEP THE TRAILS FREE FROM LITTER. The beauty of clean, wild places is so fragile even a bit of paper dropped can mar it.

10. WEAR PROPER CLOTHING—hiking boots for extensive or rugged hikes, and light but warm clothing. A light jacket is recommended, as hot summer days often cool quickly.

11. PLAN YOUR HIKE. By careful utilization of your time you will be able to see more and have a more enjoyable trip. Allow plenty of time. Usually it is more satisfying to thoroughly explore a few sections than to hurriedly try to see everything.

12. CONSIDER comfort items such as, bandaids, mosquito repellant, sun glasses, suntan lotion.

THE TRAILS

No attempt is made to give a complete description of any trail, but instead to give sufficient information to enable a prospective user to know if he is likely to find a particular one interesting. Before the description of each trail, the following items are given: Starting point, distance, topography, time, and features. Many starting points are at guide marker numbers which are referred to in the _Road Guide to Lassen Volcanic National Park_. “Topography” refers to the vertical rise or fall. For example a “descent of 500 feet” means a drop in elevation of 500 feet. As “Time” varies considerably among different persons; an attempt is made to indicate the time needed for a leisurely hike. A young person in good condition will require less time than indicated, while a bird watcher, photographer, or naturalist might take much longer.

It is hoped that with these items indicated, as well as a description of the more interesting features of each trail, you will be able to decide which trails will offer the greatest satisfaction and enjoyment.

Opening of the trails in the park varies from year to year according to the amount of snow during the previous winter. During July, August and September most of the trails are open.

The following tables of opening dates are for years of average snowfall, and the actual dates will vary from two weeks earlier to two weeks later than indicated. Trails at lower elevations and on open slopes facing south will be available as much as a month earlier than higher trails on north slopes, or trails through heavy forest. Trail crews attempt to open some trails early, especially the Lassen Peak and Bumpass Hell trails. Even though snow has melted, down trees may prevent easy hiking until trail crews can find time to work the trails.

MAY 15 Lily Pond Manzanita Lake Sulphur Works JUNE 1 Bathtub Lake Butte Lake Cinder Cone JUNE 15 Boiling Springs Lake Chaos Crags and Crags Lake Cluster Lakes Devil’s Kitchen Lake Mill Creek Falls Paradise Meadow Summit Lake to Echo and Twin Lakes Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Upper Twin Lake Summit Lake to Horseshoe Lake via Grassy Swale Creek Widow Lake JULY 1 Bumpass Hell Butte Lake to Snag Lake Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes Crystal Lake Forest Lake Horseshoe Lake to Snag Lake Inspiration Point Juniper Lake to Snag Lake Kings Creek Falls Lassen Peak Manzanita Creek Mount Harkness Park Road to Summit Lake Park Road to Hat Lake Prospect Peak Ridge Lakes Terrace, Shadow, and Cliff Lakes JULY 15 Brokeoff Mountain

TRAILS ROADS PARKING AREAS BUILDINGS CAMPGROUNDS STREAMS WATERFALLS MOUNTAINS LAKES THERMAL ACTIVITY NORTH DIRECTION

1. FOREST LAKE AND BROKEOFF MOUNTAIN

Starting Point: Guide Marker 2 Distances: Forest Lake, 1.5 miles; Brokeoff Mountain, 3.7 miles. Total round trip 7.4 miles Topography: Uphill—Forest Lake, 700 feet; Brokeoff Mountain, 2600 feet Time: Forest Lake, 2½ hours; Brokeoff Mountain, 5 hours Features: Scenic views, flowers, streams

For sheer beauty and rugged mountain scenery the Brokeoff trail is one of the best in Lassen. From the entrance station it climbs steadily through open meadows and forest for two miles and then through the scattered hemlocks and finally above timberline to the top. Forest Lake is near the trail, and is a good objective for a leisurely nature walk. A wide variety of wildflowers will be found changing with the seasons, and the Brewer mountainheath produces an outstanding display. Birds frequently seen include juncos, chickadees, western tanagers, flycatchers, and a number of others. Deer are common.

Beyond Forest Lake the forest becomes more open. At the west end of the mountain just before the last half mile of climb, there is a good view of Mt. Shasta. From the top of the mountain there are good views of Lassen Peak, Conard, Chaos Crags, Diller, Shasta, and other mountains of the vicinity. Also, the view of the old Tehama caldera is excellent from this point.

Pikas are sometimes seen among the rocks near the top, and marmots among the rocks at lower elevations.

Snow is likely to be found in places along the trail until about mid-August, and there is usually too much snow for climbing before mid-July.

2. MILL CREEK FALLS

Starting Point: Sulphur Works Campground Distances: 2.3 miles, round trip 4.6 miles Topography: Downhill about 300 feet and uphill about the same Time: 2½ hours Features: Waterfall, forest, flowers

Mill Creek Falls is the highest waterfall in the park with a drop of 75 feet. It is at the junction of East Sulphur and Bumpass creeks. Because of the surrounding forest and rugged terrain there are only two or three points from which it can be photographed.

The trail descends to the crossing of West Sulphur Creek, crosses an open hillside and follows through forested areas to the falls. Deer are likely to be seen as well as a variety of birds. Mule-ears, also called wyethia, is the common wildflower that covers the open hillsides. Many other wildflowers, including the blue and white stickseed, can be seen. There are good views of Brokeoff Mountain and Mount Diller.

There are no fish in the streams near the falls nor for some distance below as there is too much sulphur from the thermal areas above. Farther down, the water is diluted sufficiently for fish to live.

The trail continues beyond the crossing of East Sulphur and Bumpass creeks to Kings Creek Campground. (See Cold Boiling and Crumbaugh Lakes Trail.)

3. RIDGE LAKES

Starting Point: Sulphur Works parking area Distances: 1.1 miles, round trip 2.2 miles Topography: Rather steep climb of 1,000 feet Time: 2 hours Features: Lakes, flowers, scenic views, wildlife, forests

These small lakes are in a cirque below the rim of the old Mount Tehama caldera. From them excellent views of Mount Diller and Diamond Peak can be seen. You will find good subjects for pictures, and naturalists will find a variety of flowers (including the striking leopard lily), birds, trees, and probably deer.

The trail follows the ridge directly above the parking area for about a half mile, going through red fir and white pine forests. It then crosses an open hillside and finally goes over the moraine below the lakes. When the water is high the two lakes are joined into one. Above the lakes game trails go up the side of the Tehama rim, which is steep and covered with loose rock. Only experienced hikers should continue, and never alone.

4. SULPHUR WORKS

Starting Point: East end of the parking area Distances: 0.3 mile, round trip Topography: A few steep places Time: 25 minutes Features: Hydrothermal activity

The name “Sulphur Works” was given to this area when two men, Boarman and Supan, tried unsuccessfully to develop the sulphur and clay properties in 1865. The hydrothermal activity consists of hot springs, mud pots, and fumaroles. As a result of the hydrothermal activity a number of different minerals are deposited in the area giving it pastel shades of yellow, orange, green, and red. Some of the minerals found are powdery opal, chalcedony, hematite, pyrite, kaolinite, alunite, and sulphur.

It is believed that this is part of the vent system of the ancient volcano, Mount Tehama, which collapsed thousands of years ago. Signs posted along the trail explain the various features. This is the only hydrothermal area close to the park road.

As crusts may be thin with boiling water underneath, visitors are warned to stay on the trail.

5. BUMPASS HELL

Starting Point: Parking area by Guide Marker 17 Distances: Round trip to view point, 2.2 miles; round trip over entire nature trail, 3.0 miles Topography: A gradual climb of 500 feet in the first mile, and a descent of 250 feet into the thermal area Time: 2 hours to view point and return, 3 hours for complete round trip Features: Hydrothermal activity, glacial evidence, scenic views, flowers, forest

Bumpass Hell is the largest hydrothermal area in the park, and the trail to it is one of the most scenic. Because of the popularity of this trail it is usually opened around July 1, although occasionally the snow is too deep and opening has to be postponed. The first mile is an open and sparsely wooded mountainside with grand views of Lassen, Brokeoff, Diller, and Diamond peaks, as well as the more distant Sierra.

The hydrothermal area can be seen from the summit of the trail. Dropping into the area the trail passes by a number of hot springs, steam vents, mud pots and boiling pools. A variety of trees and wildflowers are along the trail, chiefly mountain hemlock and white-bark pine, silver leaf lupine, red penstemon, bog kalmia and other flowers. Birds, too, are abundant, and deer, marmots, and pikas may be encountered.

At the beginning of the trail is a box with self-guiding leaflets describing the numbered points of interest on the trail. We urge you to use them. You are warned to stay on the established trails as crusts are thin over some hot areas.

6. BUMPASS HELL TO COLD BOILING LAKE AND KINGS CREEK

Starting Point: Bumpass Hell parking area Distances: 4 miles one way Topography: A rise of 500 feet in the first mile followed by a descent of 1,000 feet Time: 5 hours, round trip Features: Flowers, forest, scenic views, hydrothermal activity

Following the trail from Bumpass Hell to the Kings Creek campground furnishes an interesting variation from the usual round trip. Starting at stake 23 on the Bumpass Hell self-guiding trail, it crosses the creek and leaves the basin on the east side. It then goes downgrade for 1½ miles to Cold Boiling Lake. Along this section of the trail are good views of Mount Conard and Crumbaugh Lake, and the wildflower display, especially lupine, is exceptionally good in the open places where seeps provide moisture.

Cold gas bubbles are continuously coming from Cold Boiling Lake, hence its name. From Cold Boiling Lake the trail is in the open, passing by clumps of mountain hemlock and other trees.

By arranging for pick up at Kings Creek, this trail makes an ideal downhill hike, and cuts the time in half.

7. LASSEN PEAK

Starting Point: Parking lot by Guide Marker 22 Distances: 2.5 miles to top, round trip 5 miles Topography: 2,000 feet uphill on a steady and rather steep grade (15%), starting at 8,500 feet elevation Time: 4½ hours, round trip Features: Scenic views, recent volcanic activity, timberline trees

Although persons of all ages have climbed Lassen Peak, it is not recommended for children under 4, unless carried part way, nor for adults past 70, unless in exceptionally good physical condition. Experienced hikers will find it a comparatively easy hike. But many who climb it are not experienced and may suffer mildly from being winded and from tired muscles and feet. Many people do not allow enough time for the trip. By starting slowly and resting often, most people should be able to reach the summit and experience the thrill of being on “top of the world”.

The mountain Chickadee and Clark’s nutcracker are commonly seen along the trail. The gnarled mountain hemlocks and white-bark pines at timberline, clinging tenaciously to the windswept slopes, are truly picturesque. Views of distant peaks and lakes are magnificent. On the very top, the skunkleaf polemonium blooms profusely in the short, snow-free season.

Take water (snow won’t really quench your thirst) and a sweater or jacket along. If you walk through the craters on top of the peak, use extreme caution. DO NOT SHORTCUT.

In the event a summer thunder storm develops, it is best to turn back. Lightning strikes outstanding projections, and the top of Lassen Peak is a favorite target. Never remain on any mountaintop during a thunder storm.

Leaflets explaining the past geologic history as well as present natural history of the peak are available to make your hike more enjoyable.

8. TERRACE, SHADOW, AND CLIFF LAKES

Starting Point: Guide Marker 27 Distances: Terrace Lake, 0.5 mile; Shadow Lake, 0.8 mile; Cliff Lake, 1.5 miles. Round trip 3 miles Topography: Downhill, 300 feet to Terrace Lake, 350 to Shadow Lake, and 650 to Cliff Lake, uphill on return Time: Terrace Lake, 1 hour; Shadow Lake, 1½ hours, Cliff Lake, 3 hours, all round trip times Features: Forests, lakes, flowers

These three jewels lie in cirques under the north base of Reading Peak, and are not difficult to reach. For the photographer they present plenty of contrasting colors, for the naturalist a variety of trees, flowers, birds, and animal life.

From the sign at the highway the trail descends rapidly. The trail forks after 0.2 of a mile, the left fork going to Hat Lake and the right fork to Terrace Lake. After Terrace Lake it passes along the shore of Shadow Lake, and then through open woods and meadows for over a half mile to the Cliff Lake junction. An animal trail goes towards Reading Peak through a meadow and over a low moraine to Cliff Lake.

Because this trail starts at a high elevation and is largely on north slopes it is not free from snow as early as many trails of the park.

9. PARK ROAD TO SUMMIT LAKE

Starting Point: Guide Marker 27 Distances: To road at guide marker 38, 3.7 miles; to Summit Lake, 4.2 miles; both distances one way Topography: Downhill, dropping 1,300 feet Time: 3 hours, one way Features: Lakes, forest, flowers, scenic views

The first part of this trail is #8, then it continues beyond the Cliff Lake junction, down to the park road. There is a good variety of trees, wildflowers, and birds. And for a feeling of being completely in the wilderness, this trail is ideal, for a few yards off the road there are no noises of civilization nor other reminders of the bustle of the world.

Beyond the Cliff Lake turnoff the trail descends quite rapidly through the Open forest, which becomes more dense as it approaches the lower loop of the road. Lupines, both yellow and blue, are the predominant flowers along the trail. At higher elevations the mountain hemlocks are most common, but give way to red firs, white pines, and ponderosa pines as the trail descends.

By arranging for transportation at guide marker 38 where the trail crosses the road, one can have an easy hike of about 3 hours. The return hike uphill will take about twice as long as coming down.

10. PARK ROAD TO HAT LAKE

Starting Point: Guide Marker 27 Distances: 2.8 miles, one way Topography: Downhill, 1,600 feet, descending rapidly in places Time: 2½ hours, one way Features: Flowers, forests, scenic views, stream