Part 6

Every body at Tornea was continually talking to me of a distemper to which their horned cattle are subject, and which kills many of them in the course of the winter, but especially in the spring, when they lose from fifty to a hundred head of cattle almost every year. On walking to examine the meadow into which they are first turned out to grass, I found it a bog or marsh, where the Water Hemlock, _Cicuta aquatica_, (_C. virosa_, _Sp. Pl._ 366. _Fl. Lapp. n._ 103. _Engl. Bot. t._ 479.) grew in abundance, and had evidently been cropped plentifully by the animals in feeding. It seemed probable therefore that they eat it most in the spring, when first turned into this pasture; whence it proves so much more extensively fatal than in summer, when perhaps they only pick up a plant here and there. It grows in all the moist meadows which are mown for hay; consequently the cattle take it likewise in their winter food, and therefore perish, more or less, during that time of the year. We learn from Wepfer's experiments, who gave it to various kinds of animals, what violent symptoms it occasions. See his book. Nothing appeared to me so interesting, during my visit to Tornea, as to examine into the cause and remedy of this evil. If my ideas be right, the whole might be prevented by employing a woman for a month to eradicate all the _Cicuta_; by which this town, small as it is, might save above two hundred silver dollars. I was informed that the cattle dying from this cause become so infectious, that they cannot be flayed without great danger. The persons employed in that business have their hands greatly swelled by touching the carcase, and several have lost their lives in consequence. The plant in question, therefore, agrees in qualities with the _[OE]nanthe_, as it does likewise in place of growth and outward appearance, especially in the _pinnæ_ of its leaves.[9]

The meadows hereabouts, among the thickets towards the shore of the bay, afforded me the following plants.

1. _Veronica_ (_maritima_), with an erect stem, branched in the upper part, and bearing numerous spikes. Lower leaves acute, cordate-oblong, sharply serrated, the upper ones lanceolate, serrated, two, three, or four together, opposite on the stalk. Corolla tubular, divided two thirds of its length into two lips, of which the upper is the broadest, ovate, obtuse, and nearly erect; the lower three-cleft, the middle segment narrowest, but all of equal length. Stamens two, very long, awlshaped, situated at the separation of the two lips. Hence the flower is of the personate kind. Pistil reflexed. Capsule heartshaped, narrow at the upper edge. The flowers are numerous in each spike.

2. Selleri, (_Apium graveolens_[10],) unless I am much mistaken. The petals are white, spreading, and acute. The partial umbels are broad. The general one has very rarely one or two (leaves of an involucrum?).

3. _Galium parisiense_ (_uliginosum_), with a square, furrowed, procumbent stem. The leaves are lanceolate, broader towards the extremity, acute, armed with little prickles as well as the stem. The flower is not tubular, nor the seeds prickly. The latter are white, as is also the flower. Four leaves grow together in the lower part of the stem, but in the upper part six. Under the little umbels of flowers are either four or two.

4. _Galium album_ (_boreale_). Stem square, erect, branched, especially in the upper part. Leaves four together, sessile, rather broader towards their base, three-nerved, slightly reflexed at the margin. There are two leaves to each of the lesser umbels. Seeds two, roundish, joined into a didymous shape, downy. Flower not tubular.

5. _Cruciata_, if I am not mistaken. (_Galium palustre_, that is, _Cruciata palustris alba_ of Tournefort.) Leaves four, ovate-oblong, bluntish, narrower towards their base. Flower, I believe, not tubular. See what I gathered in the woody parts of Lulean Lapland. (This was the same species, as appears by the _Fl. Lapp._)

6. _Clymenum parisiense_ (_Lathyrus palustris_). Stem triangular, two of its angles ending in wings, or having a dilated compressed border. There are two little oblong pointed angular leaflets at the insertion of the leaves, which latter are pinnated, ending in a tendril, and composed of two or three pair of nearly lanceolate _pinnæ_. The flowers are violet-coloured, three or four on each common stalk.

7. _Angelica tenuifolia_ (_sylvestris_), which I would define _A. umbellulis globosis_. The general umbel, though often naked, is commonly furnished with one, two, or as far as five, very slender leaves; each partial one has often as many as eight. It is curious that when the plant blooms vigorously, none of the stalks of the umbel can be seen, but the flowers form a complete ball, like the Double Guelder-rose (_Sambucus Opulus_, _flore pleno_,) or the Globe Thistle (_Echinops Sphærocephalus_). The petals are lanceolate and spreading. Stem striated, or slightly furrowed.

8. _Cicuta aquatica_ of Wepfer (_C. virosa_ above mentioned). I am disposed to refer this plant to _[OE]nanthe_, on account of its external aspect, which is wonderfully like the last-mentioned genus. I must examine whether their flowers agree. The footstalks are hollow, inflated, and erect. _Pinnæ_ three, rarely four, pair, of a narrow lanceolate shape. Those on the stem have from three to seven serratures each, but the radical ones have more, all distinct; and sometimes the lowermost serrature, at the lower edge, grows out into a sort of spurious _pinnula_. The top of the stem bears from one to three umbels; the general umbel being naked, or rarely furnished with a solitary leaflet[11]. The partial ones have seven short, narrow, acute leaflets. The tips of the petals are inflexed.

9. (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_. Its capsules are rose-coloured, its flowers yellowish white tipped with flesh-colour, and obtuse. The capsules are about equal to the interstices of the spike, which all together is about four inches long.

_August 6._

The day of the holy sabbath, and therefore a day of recreation for both mind and body. I saw in the church (of Tornea) a memorial of King Charles the XIth's own observation of the sun on the 14th of June, 1694. The sun was visible on that night till very near twelve, when a small cloud hid it from the sight. It was however above the horizon[12]. In winter the sun does not rise above the horizon, but at the solstice it becomes visible. Could it be seen from the pole?

The young women in Finland have much more swelling bosoms than those of Lapland; the latter accord best with the description of the poet,

"_Quales cruda viro puella servat._" (_Mart._ lib. 8. ep. 63.)

_August 7._

The town of Tornea stands on a small island, inhabited close to the shore on the south-west side. I call it an island, because it is bounded on the north by a swamp; on the south-east by the great river of Tornea; on the west and south-west by an arm of the sea, like a large river in appearance, but so shallow that no vessel can approach within a mile of the town on that side. This arm of the sea was formerly the _king's road_, (a channel obliged to be kept open,) but now it is almost dry in summer time, on the north side, towards the swamp.

I ascended the steeple from whence his majesty king Charles the Eleventh saw the sun at midnight on the 14th of June, 1694.

_August 8._

Nothing worth notice occurred.

_August 9._

Leaving Tornea, I proceeded to Kimi, where is a large salmon fishery, for which this place is remarkable, as Liminge is for its meadows, and Storlionis for its cornfields, but the last yield the greatest profit.

_August 10._

I stayed at the house of the principal clergyman in Kimi till the 11th. This day I gathered a sort of Pink, _Caryophyllus_, with reflexed petals of a purplish colour, divided into many segments almost to their base. The claws, not contracted at the summit, bear on the upper side, at the bend, a tuft of dull-coloured hairs. (This was the beautiful and fragrant _Dianthus superbus._) Also a _Salix_ with appendages at the base of its leaves. (What species this was, does not appear.) At the shore of the great river grew _Alsine repens_, _foliis gramineis_, (_Stellaria uliginosa_, _Fl. Brit._ 476. _Engl. Bot. t._ 1074.)

Lying-in women at this place are accustomed to drink brandy seasoned with pepper, partly for the sake of its intoxicating quality, by way of a narcotic, and partly to bring on the labour pains. The clergyman's wife told me an infallible method, as she said, to prevent the pains which often follow childbirth. When the woman's first child is born, and the umbilical cord divided, a spoonful of the blood is given her to swallow. This is to be practised at every succeeding labour, and I was assured that each would be rendered more easy, without any after pains.

In East Bothnia, as well as in Medelpad, it is customary to have the dairy superintended by a superior female servant, called the _fäbodar_, who receives for each cow one pound of butter and one of cheese, besides a pound of _mesosmör_. (See _v._ 1. 197.)

To obtain a greater quantity of butter, the milk is set by, either in a cellar or in a double-walled house, to be kept as cold as possible, for at least two days, or so long as that it will not stick to the finger. The milk will not turn sour, but will become very thin and blue, while the cream collects on the top, of considerable thickness and in great perfection. The cream being taken off, and put into the churn, often proves so rich, that after it has been churned but a short time, if the churn be laid on one side nothing will run out. It is no small labour to churn such cream.

Of the remaining milk cheese is made, being warmed before it is coagulated. If the milk has begun to turn sour, it will not do for this purpose. Such thin milk as this is not very fit for eating, but the whey which separates from it in the making of cheese, is by some people made into _syra_. (See _v._ 1. 243. _n._ 11.) This is done merely by putting it, when cool, into a vessel or cask, when, if set by for a considerable time, it will become extremely tough. Most usually however it is boiled, and then kept for two or three days, when, some new milk being added, it is boiled up again to the consistence of flummery, and then set by in some kind of vessel. If it remains for a long while without being touched, it grows hard, and becomes _mesosmör_. (_v._ 1. 243. _n._ 12.) The blue milk above mentioned may be boiled like fresh milk, and does not readily turn sour.

_Gos-mjölk_, or rather _Gäs-mjölk_, (from the Swedish verb _gäsa_, to work or ferment,) is made as follows. The butter-milk is set by in a tub till it begins to ferment, when about a third or fourth part of the quantity of fresh milk is added, the whole being allowed to work once more. A serum by this time is formed at the bottom, which is drawn off by means of a cock or tap, in the bottom of the tub, and used immediately for food. A similar portion of fresh milk is then put to the remainder, when more whey is, in due time, deposited. This practice is repeated from time to time for the space of a fortnight, at the end of which the milk in the tub becomes of a thick consistence, and is excellent eating.

_Servet-mjölk_ (Napkin Milk) is made by taking a quantity of sour milk just beginning to ferment, when bubbles, like hydatids as it were, are formed between the cream and the milk. This is cut across in various directions, and the thicker substance taken off and hung up in a napkin, that the liquid part may drain away. What remains in the napkin acquires a firm consistence, and is eaten along with fresh sweet cream.

EAST BOTHLAND.

_August 11._

I departed from the house of the chief clergyman of Kimi, whose name is Forbus or Forbers, and that of his wife Christian.

Here I observed the _Lumme_ of Wormius, (_Colymbus arcticus_; see _v._ 1. 27.) Its outermost toes were largest, and most naked; the next, or middlemost, smaller; the thumb, or inner most, very small.

A skin of a squirrel, that had been caught in winter, was white towards the end of the rump, as were also the outermost toes, and the ears.

In my journey this day I met with the _Stratiotes_ (_aloides_), and the _Butomus_ (_umbellatus_); as well as the _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), the spotted _Palma Christi_ (_Orchis maculata_), and the _Gnidium_. (This last could be no other than the Mezereon, _Daphne Mezereum_, formerly called _Coccognidium_.)

I found also the Ladies' Slipper (_Cypripedium Calceolus_), but it was almost out of flower.

The calyx consists of four long, coloured, lanceolate leaves, two of which, the upper and lower, are longer and broader than the two lateral ones. Petals two, the uppermost inversely ovate, reflexed, bearing the anthers. Is it the pistil? The lowermost inflated, obtuse, about an inch long. Anthers two. Fruit below the flower, of one cell, oval, with three principal and three smaller angles, splitting laterally into three valves, having a central column between them. The seeds adhere longitudinally to the middle of the placenta (or receptacle). The herb has the aspect of _Veratrum_.

_August 12._

The forests hereabouts are composed of Birch and Spruce fir mixed with Pine (_Pinus sylvestris_), and a little Juniper (_Juniperus communis_). The herbaceous plants grow luxuriantly in these woods, and attain a remarkable height. Berries of the Wild Vine (_Rubus saxatilis_), the _Vaccinium_ (Whortleberry), _Mesomora_ (_Cornus suecica_), _Empetrum_ (Crow or Crake-berry), and (_Rubus_) _Chamæmorus_, are here in abundance. The (_Pedicularis_) _Sceptrum Carolinum_ presents itself every where in the highway.

The pales, with which the fields are fenced off, are placed horizontally against upright posts.

The houses, or rather smoke-huts, are called _Pyrter_ in this part of the country. In these there is no proper fire-place, but the whole is an oven, as it were, consisting of the four walls of the house, with a flat cieling. In the latter is a hole by way of chimney, but not partially covered by any kind of lid, or trap-door, as in Norway, (see _vol._ 1. 357,) so that when the fire, made on a hearth under this opening, is very smoky, it might be entirely opened to let out the smoke. There is indeed a sort of wooden window in the roof, but it is rarely opened. The people think themselves the warmer because the smoke can escape by the door only, and are persuaded that they should be frozen to death if they had a chimney; which opinion seems to me altogether absurd. Would it not be better to have chimneys, with a moderate degree of warmth, than a heat like that of a bagnio, with blind and sore eyes, and a black sooty house? They lie on the floor in the midst of this smoke, and that is their only bed. Notwithstanding their opinion, I cannot help thinking that full as much cold air enters by the door, as there could by a chimney. They are so anxious to keep themselves warm, that they do not venture to have any windows, only shutters in their stead; indeed they seem to be as fond of darkness as owls. I peeped into one of these houses through a shutter, and within was perfect darkness. Nevertheless there were several children and other persons in the dwelling. I could distinguish nothing but what seemed to me a pair of glaring fiery eyes, like the devil, in a sort of large jug. On looking more attentively, I perceived that the object before me was actually a jug or pot, in which I had already remarked that they were accustomed to carry lighted embers, when wanted, to their neighbours.

I am sure the peasants of Smoland often make a fire sufficient to roast them alive, though their houses are furnished with chimneys, and their fires are made, as at this place, with small pieces of wood. To say the truth, few persons can be of opinion that such excessive heat, in the winter of this very severe climate, can be wholesome.

I have already mentioned that the inhabitants of these smoky dwellings have no beds, but actually sleep on the floor. In the summer season, however, they generally sleep in their barns. Round the inside of the above-described hut or cottage, are ranged various tubs or wooden vessels. In one corner, opposite to the spot where the fire is made, stands a table.

As it would be impossible to bear a fire in these dwellings during the heats of summer, their owners have another building which serves them for a kitchen. This is almost of the shape of the Laplanders' huts, but double their width and height, consisting of cloven beams or posts, such as are used for the fences of the fields, only not covered in, like the dwellings of the Laplanders. In the centre, where all the posts meet at the top, the pot is suspended over the fire. Here they boil their provisions, distil brandy, &c.

The stage-houses[13] are constructed like those seen at some posthouses in our part of the country, having the centre of the roof raised on longitudinal timbers. They are lofty, but narrow. The wooden walls curve outwards towards the top.

This year the crops of corn proved very bad in this neighbourhood, so that the inhabitants were obliged to chop their chaff, with the upper part of the straw, as fine as possible, of which, when ground, they made bread. Others preferred the bark of Pine-trees (_Pinus sylvestris_) for this purpose. The fields of rye, sown in the autumn, were at this time quite green. The winter rye, sown last year, was not yet cut. The sheaves are not laid upon any stage, or under any cover, but are placed ten together in a heap, standing nearly upright, the uppermost sheaf being laid across, so as to shelter the others. They are afterwards carried into the kilns, which at this place have exactly the appearance of bagnios, with ovens built of boulder stones.

The fastenings of the doors are quite different here from those used in Smoland, which are fixed into the floor, and capable of being raised or depressed at pleasure. The fastening here is a kind of long button upon the door, on the side where the hinges are fixed, which being turned horizontally over the door-post, prevents the opening of the door.

By the road side grew an _Amanita_ (Agaric) with a stalk two inches high, and as thick as a goose-quill. Its head was hemispherical; pale above; concave beneath, with loose gills. (Probably _Agaricus n._ 499. _Fl. Lapp. ed._ 2. 373. _Fl. Suec. n._ 1217. _ed._ 2. 446.)

The scythes used in this country nearly resemble those of the Norwegians, but differ in this respect, that the upper projection from the handle stands out horizontally, see figure e, b, while the lower, c, is perpendicular, and the top, a, which rests against the arm, is flattened. The mower is therefore obliged to take hold of the foremost projection, with his left hand, under the main handle. The advantage of this is, that he is able to move forward in a nearly upright posture. The Norwegian however walks still more erect in mowing. The proportions of this Kimi scythe are as follows: From a to b one foot and a half; b to c two palms and a half; c to d two feet; the breadth at b two inches in a right line. The length of the projection b is three inches; and of c the same. The blade is like our Smoland ones, but stands at an acute angle with the handle.

The harrow consists of four or five links, in each of which are twelve joints. These have alternately one and two projecting pieces each. (See the figure annexed to the scythe just described, _p._ 159)

In the stage-houses (see _p._ 156,) boilers are fixed in the walls, for boiling horse-dung, which is given as food to the cattle; as well as to heat water for pouring on reindeer moss (_Lichen rangiferinus_), which is also used for the same purpose; but such diet gives a loathsome taste to their milk. In the roof of these houses hams and salmon are smoke-dried.

During the winter the people are obliged to work in their miserable cabins or _Pyrter_, when they open their shutters; but nevertheless find themselves sufficiently warm.

The annexed cut represents a sort of plough, used at Kimi.

a, the base, is three palms long and one broad.

b, b, handles, each a palm in length.

c, d, shafts, six feet long, and of a round figure.

e, e, chains by which the shafts are attached to the collar or yoke. The distance betwixt e and e is three feet.

f, f, a straight or flat cross bandage.

g, m, the base of the plough-share, three feet in length, and two palms and a half broad.

h, h, points of the share, five palms long; distant at their base one foot three inches, at their extremities two feet.

i, i, a chain of long links, fastened to a ring that embraces the base of each point of the share, into which chain, at k, is introduced the handle l; this acts so as to bring the points together rather than to separate them.

It must be observed that the inner edge of these points is turned downward, so that when the handle or _spatula_ l is put in at k, and is laid upon one of them, the earth is thrown on one side, and this is done alternately with the two points. The part m is slightly curved, as well as the points proceeding from it. When it is intended to make a deep trench, as in cutting through turf in the marshes, l is laid parallel to m, while the rings at f, f, as well as at i, i, prevent the plough-share from going too far downward.

No kind of plough is used at Tornea, all the ground being turned over with the spade. The same is the case at Kimi, except in the fields where rye is sown, and these are ploughed with the plough just described.

It is a common custom at Kimi to furnish out a table with five or six plates, and as many spoons, napkins, &c., though only one or two persons are expected to dinner. There is at the post-house a free table (or ordinary).

In the land belonging to the clergyman of Kimi, I found the (_Lythrum_) _Salicaria_ with a very unusual aspect, having alternate leaves, and a solitary flower in the bosom of each. (The original specimens in the Linnæan herbarium have two or more flowers to the upper leaves.)

My intention was to have extended my journey into the province of East Bothnia; but on applying at the post-house, I could neither procure a horse, nor any thing to eat, for the inhabitants either could not, or would not, understand me. I therefore took leave of them the same day I arrived, and turned my steps backward.

The Finlanders in East Bothland are dressed very much like the Laplanders, and therefore agree with them in general appearance. Their dress is the same with respect to their cap, their light-grey jacket, their breeches reaching down to the feet, their half-boots, their belt into which they stick their knife, and the use of hooks and eyes upon their clothes instead of buttons. But they differ in not having a high collar, and in wearing a shirt and neckcloth, as well as in having their coat open before. They stick nothing into their girdle but a knife, though some people carry a key at the end of it. Their breeches are tied round the knees.

At church I observed some men with a girdle of black list, just as it was rent from the cloth, wound two or three times round the waist, which formed a contrast with their grey jackets. The women however dress in articles purchased from other countries, and make quite a different appearance from the Lapland females.

East Bothnia, being a low country, abounds in marshes, bogs, and fens. The grass is tall; but still there is such a deficiency of hay, that they buy up horse-dung at Tornea, and boil it, as I have said, in the boilers built up in some of their houses; in which also they boil water to pour over the reindeer moss.

The bread used by the inhabitants of this country in the present season of scarcity was made principally of chaff cut fine and ground.