Chapter 1

Produced by Al Haines

KNOTS,

BENDS, SPLICES,

WITH TABLES OF STRENGTHS OF ROPES, ETC.,

AND WIRE RIGGING.

BY CAPTAIN JUTSUM, CARDIFF.

_Revised and Enlarged._

GLASGOW:

The Nautical Press,

JAMES BROWN & SON,

NAUTICAL AND ENGINEERING PUBLISHERS.

1914

INTRODUCTION.

The object of this little work is to present in a compact form and systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important workings connected with Cordage, and a lucid explanation of their various formations.

The explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider almost unnecessary minuteness, but the aim throughout has been to render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the first time.

To attain this end, diagrams are introduced at every stage, and if followed closely step by step, in conjunction with the text referring to them, the learner should have no difficulty in following their construction.

At the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really skilled workmanship, amounting almost to an art, can only be gained by much practice and perseverance, and should gladly avail himself of any advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced ship-mates.

J. NETHERCLIFT JUTSUM.

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CONTENTS.

PAGE

The Construction of Ropes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Common Whipping, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Knots, etc., formed by a Single Rope's-end-- Overhand Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Figure of 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Simple Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 Running or Inside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Outside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Buntline Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Running Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 Half Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Round Turn and Two Half Hitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 Clove Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Rolling Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 Timber Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Fisherman's Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 Topsail Halliard Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Stun'sail Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 Midshipman's Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Double Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Knots, etc., made on the Bight of a Rope-- A Bowline on the Bight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Marlinespike Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 Sheepshank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Catspaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Knots, Bends, etc., for Uniting Ropes-- Reef Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Common or Sheet Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Single Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Double Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Knots formed on Ropes by their own Strands-- Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-33 Double Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Crown Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Manrope Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Stopper Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Single Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Double Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Another form of Diamond Knot (Single) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 Double Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 Shroud Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 Spritsail Sheet Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Splices-- Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 Short Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

Wire Splicing-- Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Purchases-- Single Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Double Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 Runner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Gun Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Handy Billy or Jigger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Watch or Luff Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 Double Luff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Three-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Four-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Single Spanish Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Double Spanish Burton (two forms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Spanish Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55

Miscellaneous Odds and Ends-- Palm and Needle Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 West Country Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 American Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 To Point a Rope End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 Turk's Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58-60 Mousing a Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Securing Lead Line to Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Fitting a Flag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 Cringles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61-64 Lengthening the Rope of a Sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Jury Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65-66 Sling for a Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67-68 Chain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-69 Double Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69-70 Twist or Plain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Wire Rope Splicing, etc.-- How to Handle Wire Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 Directions for Splicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76-78 Splicing Thimbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78-82

Tables showing the Respective Weights and Strengths of Various Cordage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83-86

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THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES.

Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire.

For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp and manila.

These are divided into three classes:--

(1). +A Hawser-laid Rope+, which is composed of three strands laid up generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.)

(2). +A Shroud-laid Rope+, also laid up right-handed, but consisting of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre.

(3). +A Cable-laid Rope+, which is composed of three right-handed hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4).

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In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this case a right-handed cable-laid rope).

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First we see the cable _e_ formed by the three ropes _d_, _f_, and _g_; whilst the rope _g_ is dissected to show the strands forming it, _c_, _h_, _j_; and in the strand _h_ we see _b_, the yarn composing the strand, and _a_ a yarn teased out to show the original fibre.

The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which is done as follows:--First lay the end of a length of twine along the end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off take that portion of the loop designated _a_, and continue taking turns tightly round the rope and part _b_ of the twine until the loop is nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part _c_, and cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7.

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Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's end.

Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call _a_, the portion included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by _y_ and _z_ is termed the bight which we will call _b_, and from 3 to 4 is known as the end _e_.

Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make the following knots, etc:--

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(1). +An Overhand Knot+.--Place _e_ up through bight _b_, and draw taut (Fig. 9).

(2). +A Figure of Eight Knot+.--Back _e_ round behind _a_, bring over part _z_ and dip down through bight _b_ and haul taut (Fig. 10).

(3). +A Simple Clinch+ is formed by closing up the initial loop to form a small ring and securing by a seizing--a small lashing at _d_ (Fig. 11).

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One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks.

(4). +A Running or Inside Clinch+ is the foregoing, formed by the end of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12).

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(5.) +An Outside Clinch+, as may be inferred from its name, is formed in a similar manner, but the end _c_ is brought round on top, that is, away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc.

(6). +A Buntline Hitch+ (an alternative method of securing buntlines to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of putting on a seizing, take a longer end _c_, pass it over _y_, bring up through bight _b_, and tuck the end again over part _y_ and through the last loop formed, so that the end _c_ lies close to the commencement of part _z_ (Fig. 14).

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(7). +A Bowline+.--Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first taking part _z_ in the right hand with _y_ in the left, throw a loop over _c_, the end, as in Fig. 15.

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Secondly, lead _c_ round behind part _a_ and pass it down through the last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in Fig. 16.

(8). +A Running Bowline+.--Form a loop with a long end _c_ lying underneath the standing part _a_ (Fig. 17).

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Now bring end _c_ over part _y_ and with it form the bowline knot on part _z_ just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose is required.

(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches (Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams.

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The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back for further security (Fig. 21).

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(10). +A Clove Hitch+ is really a jamming form of two half hitches, and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24).

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(11). +A Rolling Hitch+ is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or when hanging off a rope with a stopper.

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Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing part _a_ and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its non-liability to slip in the direction _B_ (Fig. 27). If, however, owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is inclined to slip, the end _e_ should be backed round part _d_ of the first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by a stop (Fig. 28).

(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, 30).

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The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose so that its formation may be the more easily seen.

(13) +A Fisherman's Bend+ is formed by taking two round turns around the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half hitch {16} around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), the dotted line showing the next direction the end _c_ must take.

It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket hitch.

(14). +A Topsail Halyard Bend+.--This bend is never seen in deep water ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part _a_ and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in Fig. 34.

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(14). +A Stun'sail Halyard Bend+ is simply a Fisherman's bend with the end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35).

(15). +A Blackwall Hitch+ is a quick way of temporarily securing a rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it consists of a half hitch, the standing part _a_ as soon as it receives the strain jamming {18} the end part _c_. It holds much more firmly than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at _b_ before passing the end _c_ under _a_, it will hold more securely.

(17). +A Midshipman's Hitch+ is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37).

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(18). +A Double Blackwall Hitch+ is made by taking the bight of the rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the two preceding hitches.

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KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE, THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING THE ENDS.

(1). +A Bowline on the Bight+--Using both parts of the rope together, commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, open out bight _c_, and taking it in the direction indicated by the dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will appear as in Fig. 40.

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(2). +A Marline-Spike Hitch+ is used for getting a purchase with a marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing part and over the sides of the loop.

(3). +A Sheep Shank+ is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the amount desired in the form of Fig. 42.

Then with parts _a_ and _b_ form a half hitch round the two parts of the bight as in Fig. 43.

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To render it still more dependable, the bight _a_ and _b_ may be seized or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45.

(4). +A Catspaw+ is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. 46.

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Then taking hold of _a_ and _b_ in either hand twist them up as in Fig. 47; bring together the two eyes _a_ and _b_ and hook in the tackle.

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KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES FOR UNITING ROPES.

(1). +A Reef Knot+.--The simplest of all knots, and is always used when a common tie is required. Its formation may be easily traced in Figs. 48, 49, 50. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 48, be sure part _a_ is kept in front of part _b_ as here shown, and the end _c_ led in according to the direction of the dotted line.

(2). +A Common Bend or Sheet Bend+.--In making a bend the ends of the two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot, but an eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in Fig. 51, and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways according to the bend desired.

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To form a Sheet Bend, pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at point _a_ and bring up through the loop, then form with it a half hitch round _c_ and _b_ (Fig. 52).

It will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end _c_ is passed round again as in Fig. 53.

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(3). For bending two hauling lines together use a +Carrick Bend+. First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in Fig. 54.

Pass the second hawser under the first at _a_, bring up through the eye _b_, back it over the cross at _c_, and bring up again towards you through the eye _b_, and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own respective parts (Fig. 55).

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(4). _A Double Carrick Bend_ is formed in precisely a similar manner, but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser at _c_, and then led up again through the eye _b_ and finished off as before (Fig. 56).

(5). +A Diamond Knot+ formed by the two ends of a rope is really a fancy knot. It is often made with Hambro' line in forming lanyards for marline-spikes, knives, etc. It is a pretty knot and very easily made.

First lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in Fig. 57.

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Notice carefully how this loop is lettered, and then, taking up the second cord, lay it under the loop at _a_, straight along also under the loop at _b_, now bring it over the first cord at _c_ and under it at _d_ and over it at _e_, then dip it under its own part now lying between _a_ and _b_, and lead it over the first cord at _f_.

The knot, still in an unfinished state, will now appear as in Fig. 58.

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Now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines (taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the purpose), and bring them both up through the opening _a_. Bring the two standing parts _b_ and _c_ together, and gradually render all parts in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible, when it will appear as in Fig. 59.

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KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS.

Although our next series of knots are generally known as "fancy knots" they are by no means merely ornamental, many of them playing important parts in the standing rigging of a ship.

(1). +To Form a Wall Knot+.--First unlay the rope so that the strands appear as in Fig. 60.

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Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand _a_ in the direction indicated by the dotted line, viz., under strand _b_ and up between strands _b_ and _c_ (Fig. 61).

Then with strand _b_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _a_ and _c_, and bringing the end of strand _b_ up between _a_ and _d_ (Fig. 62).

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Now with strand _c_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _b_ and _a_ by leading the end of strand _c_ up through the loop _e_ in strand _a_ (Fig. 63).

Finally, work all parts well taut, whip the ends of the strands together and cut off short (Fig. 64).

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(2). +A Double Wall Knot+ is formed by allowing each strand to again follow its lead as given in a single wall knot, opening out the first loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose. The three strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after whipping them together. This knot is also known as a stopper knot.

(3). +A Crown Knot+ is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar manner to a wall knot, but the strands are successively led _over_ each other instead of under. Its construction will be easily followed in Fig. 65.

Double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside its first lead.

Our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown.

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(4). +A Manrope Knot+ is made by first forming a wall and then crowning it (Fig. 66.)

Then follow round the wall again, and lastly, follow round the crown, when the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 67.