Part 2

A knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall, and afterwards following round the crown and wall again is another form of the Stopper Knot. It is very similar in appearance when finished to a Manrope Knot.

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(5). +A Single Matthew Walker+.--To make this knot commence similarly to a wall, but pass the first strand _a_ under both _b_ and _c_, as in Fig. 68.

Then pass _b_ under both strands _c_ and _a_, and bring up through the loop first formed by _a_ (Fig. 69).

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Similarly pass _c_ under _a_ and _b_, and bring up through the loop first formed by _b_ (Fig. 70).

(6). +A Double Matthew Walker+ will be easily learnt if you notice the difference between a single Matthew Walker and a Wall Knot.

In the Wall Knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through the loop formed by this second strand.

In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands to its right, coming up through the loop of the third strand.

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Another evolution in the same order brings us to the double Matthew Walker. It is formed, as will be seen by carefully following diagram 71, by making each strand contain in its own loop, the other two strands, and _its own_ end, that is, each strand leads up through its own bight after interlacing the other two.

When worked taut and finished off, it will appear as in Fig. 72.

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(7). +A Single Diamond Knot+.--This is another method of forming the knot shown in Fig. 59, which in that case was formed by the two ends of the same rope.

To form it on a rope by its own strands, unlay the rope to the place where it is desired to form the knot, and as after the knot is made the strands will have to be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay in the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of the three strands down alongside the standing part of the rope, thus forming three bights, and hold them thus with the left hand. Take the first strand _a_ (Fig. 73) and, putting it over the next, _b_, bring it up through the bight of the third strand _c_.

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Take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of the first. The last strand is brought through over the first and up through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the rope up again. Fig. 74 shows the loops in their places with the ends through them before they are hauled taut. Fig. 75 gives the knot finished.

For a double diamond we first make a single diamond, the ends are then made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last strand passes through two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before (Fig. 76).

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(8). +A Shroud Knot+ is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77).

The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends should be marled and served as in Fig. 79.

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(9). +A Spritsail Sheet Knot+.--Unlay both ends of the rope and bring the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80.

Grasping both parts of the rope at _a_, with the six strands form a Wall Knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under 5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1.

This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is very easily made in practice.

Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top {42} in an _opposite direction_, and crown by passing the other four, each in turn, alternately over and under these two.

Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward direction alongside the strands forming the first walling.

Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning.

Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81.

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SPLICES.

(1). +An Eye Splice+ is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pass the strand on the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.)

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Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck.

If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a Sailmaker's Splice.

(2). +A Short Splice+ is used to join two ropes when it is not required to pass through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other.

Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope _b_ in a similar manner to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of _b_ into _a_ (Figs. 84 and 85).

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(3). +A Cut Splice+ is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in Fig. 86.

Leaving the ropes between _a a_ to form an oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice after this treatment.

A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to appear, the two lines are twisted together.

(4). +A Long Splice+ is one of the most useful of splices, as it permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced rope.

Unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length used in a short splice, and then clutch them together as if about to commence a short splice. Now unlay one strand for a considerable distance and fill {46} up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand opposite to it of the other rope. Then do the same with two more strands. Let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed. The ropes will now appear as in Fig. 88.

To finish off, tuck the ends as in a short splice, but _with_ the lay of the rope, that is, so that the tuck will continually take place around the same strand, and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns in the strand.

(5). +To Make a Grommet+, cut a strand about three and a half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring (Fig. 89), and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are filled up (Fig. 90), and then finish off the two ends as in a long splice (Fig. 91).

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WIRE SPLICING.

In splicing wire, great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting in the rope or strands.

With steel wire, always before working it, put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay, and also put a good whipping of twine at the end of each strand.

Steel wire is six-stranded right-handed, and has a heart of hemp. Flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand.

Crucible wire is made in the same manner, except that the strands are wire throughout.

Crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for purchases, etc.

In splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope.

In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest of the person working.

A long tapering steel marline-spike is required, and after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through.

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There are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand, but the following is as good as any:--Tuck the first strand under two strands and all the rest under one strand respectively. Tuck whole again, and this time each strand under one strand, then halve the strands and tuck again.

To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short nip but take long lays.

In unlaying for a long splice, always unlay two strands simultaneously, to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 ft. of each end.

Proceed as in rope splicing, and after the three pairs of strands are in their places, single them, and continue to unlay and lay-in until the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant.

To finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and actual practice. By using two marline-spikes, the hempen heart is removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, making a very neat job when finished.

Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with Hambro' line.

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PURCHASES.

(1) +Single Whip+.--A rope rove through a single block fixed in any position. No power is gained (Fig. 92).

(2). +Double Whip+.--A rope rove through two single blocks--upper block a tail block, lower one a movable hook block. Power gained--double (Fig. 93).

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(3). +A Runner+ adds an additional power to the purchase it is used with (Fig. 94).

(4). +Gun Tackle+.--single blocks. Power gained--twice or thrice, according to which is the movable block (Fig. 95).

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(5). +Handy Billy or Jigger+.--A small tackle for general use; a double block with a tail and single block with hook (Fig. 96).

(6). +Watch Tackle or Luff Tackle+.--Double hook block and single hook block (Fig. 97).

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(7). +Double Luff+.--Two double blocks (Fig. 98).

(8). +Three-Fold Purchase+.--Two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six or seven times (Fig. 99).

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(9). +Four-Fold Purchase+.--Two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight or nine times (Fig. 100).

(10). +A Single Spanish Burton+.--Two single blocks and a hook. Power gained--three times (Fig. 101).

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(11). +A Double Spanish Burton+.--There are two forms of this purchase--Fig. 102, by using three single blocks; Fig. 103, by using one double block and two single blocks. Power gained--five times.

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(12). +A Spanish Windlass+.--To rig a Spanish Windlass take a good strand well greased in the centre. Place the strand over the two parts of the rope that are to be hove together, and bringing the ends of the strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marline-spike through each eye and heave around (Fig. 104).

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MISCELLANEOUS ODDS AND ENDS.

(1). +A Palm and Needle Whipping+ is a more permanent way of securing a rope's end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand. First, place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the whole length of twine through. Take a considerable number of turns round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and finish up by following round with the needle between each strand, forming a series of frappings, and cut off the end of the twine short (Fig. 105).

(2). +A West Country Whipping+ is formed by middling the twine around the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half turn, so that each half knot will be on opposite sides. When a sufficient number of turns are passed, finish it off with a reef knot.

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(3). +An American Whipping+ is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers. It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, but finished off by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out when you commence to pass the turns on the bight over the last end.

(4). +To Point a Rope End+.--First put a stop on at twice and a half the circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the length for pointing, unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the strands. Split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of each yarn. (A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger and thumb left-handed.) When the nettles are made stop them back on the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the yarns by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other one up and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of twine--which is called the warp--very taut round the part where the nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn. Continue to repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, passing the warp or "filling," taking a hitch each time, until the {58} point is to its required length. It is generally finished off by working a small Flemish eye in the end (Figs. 106 and 107).

(5). +Turk's Head+.--The Turk's Head is one of the most common of the ornamental knots used at sea, and is formed from an ordinary clove hitch (Fig. 108) made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of the other parts.

Having formed the clove hitch, pass _b_ over _c_ and tuck _a_ under and up through the bight formed by _c_ as in Fig. 109. It will then be found that there is another twist in {60} the parts _b_ and _c_, tuck _a_ under _e_ and over _b_. Then go on as in Fig. 109, and put _b_ over _c_ again and tuck _a_ as before. The number of crossings required depends principally on the size of the material on which the Turk's Head is formed. To finish off as in Fig. 110, the part _a_ is made to follow _d_ (Fig 108) round for three times.

(6). +Mousing a Hook+.--All hooks in running gear should be moused as in Fig. 111.

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(7). +Securing Lead Line to Lead+.--The lead is fitted with a good wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye spliced in it, and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet and over the lead (Fig. 112).

(8). +Fitting a Flag+.--A toggle should be secured at the head of the hoist by an eye splice; a length of rope equal to the width of the flag left below the hoist, as this is the distance the flags should be apart, and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached to the next flag.

(9). +To Stick a Cringle+.--First unlay a single strand from {62} the size of rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail, having one end longer than the other--nearly a third--keeping the roping of the sail towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the parts of the strand together, counting three lays; commence with the short end of the strand towards you, then reeve the long strand from you through the right hand eyelet hole, taking it through the cringle, and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one; the ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you; then take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it; then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fidded out, and the thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strand are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, again under two, right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place {63} at each tuck, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and cut off. If a large cringle is needed, count an extra number of lays--5, 7, etc., always an odd number.

(10). +To Finish a Cringle off on the Crown+.--Commence as before, but after laying up the strand, instead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and finished off by tucking the ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and cut close off.

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In working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there are no eyelet holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands of the rope it is to be worked in.

(11). +To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand+.--Say it is necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread, it would then be necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope. Supposing the width of cloth to be 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 in. After ripping the rope off four cloths, first of all cut the strand at the distance 2 ft. 6 in. from each other as in Fig. 115.

Cut one of the strands at _a_ and unlay it to _c_, then cut one of the strands remaining at _c_ and unlay it to _b_, laying the strand _a_ up again as far as _b_; then cut the only remaining strand at _b_, which will be the centre, when your rope will be in two parts. By following the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut. The rope will now appear as in Fig. 116.

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Now marry the long end _a_ to the end _b_, then lay up the long strand _c_ in the lays of the strand _a_, and marry it to the other strand _b_ as in Fig. 117.

Take a strand about 10 ft. in length of the same size rope and marry one end to the short strand _a_ as shown above, then fill up the space left from _a_ to _c_ by laying in the new strand, and marry the other end to the short strand _c_. You will then have four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices (Fig. 118).

(11). +Jury Knot+. The jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports to the mast. The centre _k_ (Fig. 120) is slipped over the masthead, and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its position on the mast.

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It is formed by three ordinary half-hitches, each placed behind the other and with the loop of the last laid over the first, as in Fig. 119.

Having done this, keep the hitches together with the right hand, and with the left take _a_ and dip it under _b_ and pull _c_ through _a_ and _b_. Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place _f_ over _e_, and pull _d_ between _e_ and _f_. Take _g_ in the teeth and pull on the parts _g_, _f_, and _a_. The ends _h_ and _z_ may be either knotted or spliced.

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(13). +Sling for a Barrel+.--The following method of slinging a barrel is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on.

Pass the bight _a_ of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and bring the two parts up, and with them {68} form an overhand knot _b_, which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel.

The bight _a_ is placed under the cask, and the overhand knot _b_ is slipped over the head, and the two ends are brought up and knotted as in Fig. 122.

(14). +Chain Knot+.--An easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope is that known as the chain knot.

To form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand knot, but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as in Fig. 123.

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This will form the loop _a_, Fig. 123, through which pass a bight of _b_ and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up, and it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop (Fig. 124).

(15). +Double Chain+.--The Double Chain is a little more intricate than the chain knot, and is formed by taking a turn round the standing part and thus forming a loop {70} _c_, through which the end _a_ is passed, thus forming the loop _b_ (Fig. 125).

The end _a_ is brought back and dipped down through _b_ and this is continued as long as required, finishing off by running the end through the last bight and hauling it taut (Fig. 126).

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(16). +Twist Or Plait Knot+.--Another method of shortening a small handy rope is known as the twist or plait knot.

Arrange the rope in such a manner that the amount to be taken up forms a bight as in Fig. 127.

Then by taking _a_ over _b_ and _c_ over _b_, and so on, taking the outside one on each side alternately over the middle one, the plait is formed. To keep the plait clear, the end has to be continually dipped through the first bight made (Fig. 128).

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HOW TO HANDLE WIRE ROPE, ETC.

+The following article by a Wire Specialist will be read with interest+:--

When uncoiling Wire Rope it is important that no kinks are allowed to form, as once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn-table should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent one); the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks. (See Fig. 129.)

If a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the ground as shown in Fig. 130.

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In no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over (as in Fig. 131), or kinks will result, and the rope will be completely spoiled.

The life of Wire Rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums, sheaves, and pulleys; and too much importance cannot be given to the size of the latter. Wherever possible the size of the pulleys should be not less than 700 times the diameter of the largest wire in the rope, and never less than 300 times. The diameters of drums, sheaves, and pulleys should increase with the working load when the factor of safety is less than 5 to 1.

The load should not be lifted with a jerk, as the strain may equal three or four times the proper load, and a sound rope may easily be broken.

Examine ropes frequently. A new rope is cheaper than the risk of killing or maiming employees.

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One-fifth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a fair working load.

In shafts and elevators where human life is constantly raised and lowered, the working load should not be more than one-tenth of the ultimate breaking strength of the rope.