Part 4

SPLICING AND ROPE WORK

It is sometimes necessary to unite hawsers, cables and even ropes in such a manner that there is no obvious difference in their diameter and no substantial weakening of their strength. This can be done only by splicing, that is, putting the ends together by opening the strands and placing them into one another, or if equal diameter is not essential by putting strands of the end of a rope between those of a bight. When ropes are knotted they cannot be run through a block. In driving ropes, too, knotting is out of the question. It is calculated that a splice will weaken the strength of a rope about one-eighth.

=A short splice= is used for joining any rope not needed to travel through a block.

To make a short splice unlay the rope to the required length which is twice the circumference of the rope for the long ends and one and a half times the circumference for the short ends. When this is done whip all the ends with yarn. The ends are then placed together as shown in the first diagram, the strands of one rope alternately between the strands of the other. The two ropes are then jammed closely together. The end of one rope with the strands of the other rope are now held firmly in the left hand. Sometimes it is better to put a lashing round the strands to keep them down to the rope on which they lie. The long ends are tucked in twice and the short ends once. Pass the left hand over the first strand next to it and underneath the second strand. Haul it taut in the lay of the rope. Then enter the right-hand strand and lastly the middle strand in a similar manner to the first or left-hand strand. Haul them taut along the lay of the rope. Put the long ends in again as before, cut the stop off the fork and put the short ends in once in a similar way. Stretch the splice, whip the ends and cut them off. If it is intended to serve over the splice, put the strands in once and a half each way, take a few of the underneath yarns from each strand to fill up the lay of the rope for worming, scrape the ends and marl them down ready for serving.

=The Long Splice= has many advantages over the short one. To make it unlay the ends of two ropes to the length of five and a half times the circumference of the rope. Crutch them together as for the short splice. Unlay one strand and fill up the vacant space which it leaves with the opposite strand next to it. Then turn the rope round and lay hold of the two next strands that will come opposite their respective lays. Unlay one filling up the vacant space, as before, with the other. Take one-third out of each strand, knot the opposite strands together and heave them well in place. Stick all six ends once under one strand. Having stretched the splice well cut off the ends.

=An Eye Splice= is used by seafarers to splice round a block, dead-eye or thimble and is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a short distance and then laying three strands upon the standing part so as to form an eye. Put one end in the strand next to it in the same manner as for the short splice. Then put the next end over that strand and through the second and put the remaining end through the third strand on the other side of the rope. Taper them, divide the strands and put them in again. To finish off split the strands and take half of each, seizing them together, and cut the ends off. When serving is used the strands should be tapered off.

=A Chain Splice= is used for splicing hemp tails into chain when required to travel through a block or fairlead, such as earrings and outhauls for forecastle and quarterdeck awnings. To make a chain splice unlay strands rather more than for an eye splice, then unlay the strand, =A=, for a few inches. Reeve the two remaining strands, =B= and =C=, through the link in the end of the chain; continue unlaying the strand, =A=, and lay up strand, =B=, in its place for about a foot, then half knot it and tuck as for a long splice. Then tuck the strand =C= as for an eye splice.

=A Cut Splice= is made by laying two ropes in the position indicated in the upper diagram. Leaving the ropes between =A=, =A=, to form an oblong loop, tuck the strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices are often wormed, parcelled and served.

It is rather difficult to force apart the twisted strands of ropes. For this purpose a marlinespike is used for large ropes. This is made of iron, copper or hard wood. Copper is preferable as it does not rust like iron or break like wood. A steel pricker is used for small stuff. For very large ropes a fid, which is a tapered wooden pin usually made of lignum vitæ, is used.

=A Grommet= is a ring of rope. To make it cut a strand about three and one-half times the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring as shown in the first diagram and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay until all the intervals are filled up as shown in the second diagram. Then finish off the two ends as in a long splice.

=An Artificial Eye= is made somewhat like a long splice. Take the end of a rope and unlay one strand; lay the two strands back to the standing part of the rope; pass the strand which has been unlaid over the end and in the intervals round the eye, until it returns down the standing part and lies under the eye with strands. Then divide the strands, taper them down and serve them over with spunyarn.

=The Flemish Eye= is a little more difficult to make. The rope is first whipped and the strands unlaid to the whipping and opened out, separating each rope yarn. Take a piece of wood the size of the intended eye, =A=, between and along it lay three or more stops, hitch over the yarns and tie with the overhand knot crossing them somewhat; seize the ends and worm them between the strands at the shoulder. Then marl all down, parcel and serve the ends.

=Throat Seizing= is made by opening the end slightly and lashing it to the standing part. The ring shown in the diagram is one of a variety occasionally used. It is useful to pass other ropes through in the rigging. Another ring is formed by lashing the two ends of a short piece of rope to the side of a long one, looping the short piece to give the requisite ring.

=A Selvagee= is used to form a neat stropping for blocks or to go round a spar to which a hook is to be fastened. To make a selvagee strop drive a couple of bolts or large nails into a piece of plank, or any convenient place, or else seize a couple of hooks which will answer the same purpose. Put the nails or hooks at the required distance apart, according to the length of strop needed. Take the end of a ball of rope yarn and make it fast to one of the spikes or hooks. Pass it round the other spike and keep passing roundabout turns, taking care to have every turn well taut until the strop is the required thickness. If it is to be a very large strop marl it down with spunyarn; if a small strop use two-rope yarn.

=To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand.=--To do this is necessary when a sail is increased by the addition of, say, one cloth. Then the foot rope must be lengthened. Suppose the width of the cloth is 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 inches. After ripping the rope off four cloths, first cut the strand at the distance 2 feet 6 inches from each other, as shown in the diagram below.

Cut one strand at =A= and unlay it to =C=, then cut one of the remaining strands at =C= and unlay it to =B=, laying the strand =A= up again as far as =B=. Then cut the remaining strand at =B=, which will be the center, and the rope will be in two parts, as seen in the diagram above.

Now marry the long end =A= to the end =B=, then lay up the long strand =A= and marry it to the other strand =B=, as in the diagram below.

Take a strand about 10 feet in length of the same size rope and marry one end to the short strand =A=, as shown in the diagram. Fill up the space left from =A= to =C= by laying in the new strand and marry the other end to the short strand =C=. There will then be four splices to finish off as ordinary long splices.

A rope is wormed, parcelled or served to preserve it from wet or chafe.

=Worming= is done to fill up the space between the strands of the rope with spunyarn or small rope, to render the surface smooth and round for parcelling and serving.

=Parcelling= a rope is laying round it with the lay of the rope strips of clad canvas, tarred, from 2 to 3 inches wide according to the size of the rope, before serving it, the upper turn of the parcelling overlapping the upper edge of the turn below it.

=Serving= is covering the rope with coils of spunyarn or other small stuff laid on quite close. The spunyarn is put, or, hove on by a serving mallet which has a score in the underpart according to the size of the rope. Service is always laid on against the lay of the rope. The sailor’s adage says:

Worm and parcel with the lay. And serve the rope the other way.

The end of the yarn is first secured by placing it under the first two or three coils. The serving mallet after being placed against the rope has two or three turns passed round its body and another turn or two on the handle. This enables the coils to be pulled taut as the mallet is worked round the rope by its handle. An extra man is needed for passing the ball of serving stuff. When the required length of service is put on, the end is put under the last two turns, hauled taut and cut off.

=To make a cringle= unlay a single strand from the rope the size the cringle is required to be. Whip both ends, reeve the strand through the left-hand eyelet-hole in the sail, keeping one end nearly a third longer than the other, keeping the roping of the sail toward you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the two parts of the strand together, counting three lays. Commence with the short end of the strands toward you, through the right-hand eyelet-hole, taking it through the cringle and it will be in right position to lay up in the vacant space left in the cringle. When done the one end will hand down inside the right-hand eyelet-hole and the other end outside the left-hand one. The ends are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet-holes and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch being towards you and the other from you. Then take the ends down under one strand on the right and two on the left of the cringle nearest to it. Tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch leaving them well in place. The cringle is then fidded out and the thimble is put in on the forward of the sail. The ends of the strands are then tucked back left-handed, under one strand, again under two right-handed as in the first place. Heave them taut in place at each tuck, whip the ends with two of their own yarns and cut off. If a large cringle is needed count an extra number of lays, 5, 7, 9, etc., always an odd number.

To finish a cringle off on a crown commence as already told. After laying up the strand together instead of forming a hitch with each end, the ends are rove through their respective eyelet-holes and tucked back under two strands of the cringle and again laid up as far as the crown forming a four-stranded cringle. It is finished off by tucking the ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle and cut off close.

WIRE ROPE SPLICING

In splicing wire rope great care must be taken to prevent kinks getting into the rope or strands. Once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turntable should be employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent one)--the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks.

With steel wire rope, always before working it put a stop on at the place to which you intend to unlay, and put a good whipping of twine at the end of each strand. In splicing wire all tucks are made against the lay of the rope.

In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a convenient position, so that when standing up the eye will be at about the level of the chest of the person working.

A long, tapering steel marlinespike is required and after placing it under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the slack of the strand drawn through.

To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the strands never take a short nip, but take long lays.

In unlaying for a long splice always unlay two strands simultaneously to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay about 9 feet of each end.

Proceed as in rope splicing and after the three pairs of strands are in their places, single them and continue to unlay and lay in until the six meeting places of the strands are equidistant.

To finish off the ends properly can only be learned by observation and actual practice. By using two marlinespikes the hempen heart is removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it occupied, making a very neat job when finished.

Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served.

=Short Splice.=--The same procedure is gone through as for splicing hemp rope, only care must be taken to place a good whipping on where the ends marry, and that each strand prior to unlaying is whipped. The number of tucks taken should never be less than three whole and one-half and one-third, so as to taper the splice off. The number of tucks to be taken off varies according to the work required of the rope or strop, but as a rule the more the better.

In tucking wire strands the strand should be entered in front of the marlinespike, which should not be withdrawn until this has been done, care being taken not to kink the strand.

=Eye Splice.=--Make the crown of the eye, take half the girth of the thimble and rope to be used and put a good stout whipping on to the wire, break the wire into shape of the thimble and heave both parts of the wire together by means of the rigging screws supplied for this purpose. Put a good seizing of spun yarn around both sides of the wire and thimble at the ends of the latter. Then remove the rigging screws and unlay the end of the wire as far as the whipping, open each strand and remove the hemp heart by cutting it off. Then put a whipping on the ends of the six strands, commence the splice by tucking the right-hand strand first, then the others in succession, each strand under one. The left-hand strand being the last is tucked under two. This ensures that each strand takes a fair strain. Care should be taken to keep the strands straight. When all have been tucked once, beat well down with an iron hammer and put on a good seizing of spun yarn. Then tuck each strand a second time. Wire 2½ inches and over should be tucked three times full and tapered to a third.

=Steel Wire Hawsers.=--The splices of the wire are made against the lay of the rope tucked three times with the full size of the strand and a fourth time with the strand reduced one-half; to make a more suitable taper, each tuck is drawn tightly in the direction of the lay of the rope. The center core of the rope is removed on opening out the strands for splicing, and the cores of the strands removed after the first tuck has been made. The first tuck is taken at one and a half times the girth of the thimble plus the circumference of the rope. The splice is then parcelled and served, the thimble tightly seized in with flat seizing crossed.

=Splicing Wire Rope into an Endless Band.=--This can be done either by the long or short splice, but the former is recommended, as the short splice, though equally strong, leaves a thick place in the rope. In the long splice, if properly made, no such inequality exists; indeed the spliced part should be difficult to locate.

To make a long splice a rope say 3½-inch circumference should have a splice not less than 60 feet to be safe, and smaller sizes in proportion down to 1½-inch circumference, for which size 25 feet will do. Take the 3½-inch rope as an example.

Measure 30 feet off each end of the rope and put a sound marline serving at those points. Then cut off the end servings and tie the strands together in twos and interlock, as shown in the diagram.

Lashings should only be cut off when parts are quite close together, otherwise rope has a tendency to open out further back and thus throw the length wrong. Then open strands out singly and snip off short six of the ends, three on either side, alternately. That is to say, leave a long end in each case opposite one of the snipped ends. Take each of the short ends in turn and carefully unlay them, at the same time laying in its place the corresponding long end.

This should be done with all the strands, and reckoning from the center on each side, the first one should be taken away 25 feet, the second 15 feet, and the third 5 feet. This will divide the splice up equally as shown in the lower diagram.

Then commence at the first strand at either end. First put the marlinespike through the center of the rope where the ends cross, cut and remove the hemp heart for about a foot. Then by the aid of the two spikes force the strand into place of heart just removed and follow up to the end of the strand, pulling out the heart a few inches at a time.

Repeat with all twelve ends, taking care that no empty space is left in the center of the rope by cutting of the hemp core further away than the strand end will reach. It is a good plan to marl or wrap each end with parcelling before it is put into the center of the rope, as this tends to give parts of the splice a good grip of one another. To finish off and remove inequalities, lay the splice on deck and hammer with a heavy wooden mallet.

MATTING

=A Paunch Mat= is used as a protection from chafe on shipboard. Stretch a piece of rope according to the size of the mat required in a horizontal position and fasten each end. Across this hanging by their middles, foxes are placed. Foxes are two or more rope yarns twisted together by hand and each rubbed down with tarred canvas or a handful of rope yarn. Beginning with the fox nearest the left hand twist a turn in the two parts and give one part to the man opposite. The next fox has a turn twisted in its two parts and one part is given to the opposite man. The other part is twisted round the first which is given to the partner and then again round its own part with the other foxes until the required breadth is reached. Then as no more foxes are added and the outside on the right is brought over from time to time, a selvage is formed as on the left side. There is a little difficulty in starting but afterwards all will go along very easily. Each fox from the right passes over the next one to it on the left and is pushed back. The one that has been passed over being taken up first over the next and pushed back as before. Each twist should be pressed tight as it is made. When the mat is deep enough a selvage is made by straining another piece of cord along the bottom securing both ends. As each fox comes down it is half hitched to this and the next fox is laid at the back of it and so on alternately.

=Sword Matting= is used for boats, gripes, etc. Two iron bars are slung in a horizontal position at the required distance apart for warping the mat off. Hitch one end of the warp which is of spunyarn to the bar at the end of which it is intended to finish the mat. The other end is then rove through the first hole in the loom over and under the other bar back through the first slit, over and under the other bar and so on until as many parts as are required for the breadth needed have been laid out. The last end is rove through a slit and secured to the bar at the end the mat is to be finished. When this is done lift the loom up, middle the fittings and lay it between the upper and lower parts. Then lower the loom and the parts that were lowest will rise in the slits and become the uppermost and thus put a cross in the warp.

A piece of wood made in the shape of a knife, called a sword, is then inserted between the alternate parts of the warp and the crossing is driven close to the head against the bar over which the warp for weaving the mat is passed. Then turn of filling is passed to secure the crossing, reeving the ends through contraryways. Haul it taut, take out the sword, lift up the loom and continue to pass the filling. Half knot it with two turns. To finish off splice the mat. The loom is usually made of a piece of copper sheet with alternate holes and slits in it.

=To Splice a Sword Mat= unlay 6 or 7 inches of the mat, open the ends out, marry them together laying one up and one down flat along the mat. Withdraw the nettles on one side of one mat and point the nettles of the other mat through the holes they will come out of. All ends will then disappear from that side and there will be four rows of ends on the other. Turn the mats over, pick out the proper nettles of the side which have been married together, withdraw the ends belonging to one mat and introduce the corresponding ends of the other mat through the holes. Perform this operation on each mat and on each side there will be two rows of ends. Marry these ends together on each side laying one up and one down and go on splicing by withdrawing and reeving for two or three rows more in each mat. Leave off with the ends all out on the same side and finish off as with selvaging.

A cobbler’s stitch is used for joining the sides of sword mats together. Take a filling of roping twine, middle it and reeve each end through two bights in each mat (if a heavy mat through three bights at each side). Then reeve the lowermost end back through the same bights as the upper end which will bring the ends out at opposite sides. Draw the mats together and reeve both ends through two turns in each mat again, passing each other through the same hole opposite ways. Keep on doing this like stitching the sole of a shoe, hence the reason for calling it a cobbler’s stitch. Finish off each end by taking a hitch through a bight in the mat of the next lay above and cut off the ends.

=A Thrum Mat= is made of canvas and short yarns of equal length. These yarns are rove through holes stabbed in the canvas, both ends of the yarns being on the same side.