Part 1

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[The words between equals signs (=) appear in Old English type in the original. A few typographical errors have been made; a list follows the etext. (note of etext transcriber.)]

=Kensington Palace: the Birthplace of the Queen.=

=Illustrated.=

1819 MAY 24TH 1899

=Kensington Palace=

THE BIRTHPLACE OF THE QUEEN

_ILLUSTRATED_

BEING AN HISTORICAL GUIDE TO THE STATE ROOMS, PICTURES, AND GARDENS

BY

=Ernest Law, B.A.= BARRISTER-AT-LAW _Author of "The History of Hampton Court Palace;" "The Royal Gallery of Hampton Court;" "Vandyck's Pictures at Windsor Castle," etc._

_Notice._--This Catalogue and Guide are copyright, and immediate proceedings in Chancery will be taken against any infringers thereof.

LONDON GEORGE BELL AND SONS 1899

=Notice to Visitors.=

The State Rooms of Kensington Palace, and likewise Queen Anne's Orangery, will be open to the public every day in the week throughout the year, except Wednesdays, unless notice be, at any time, given to the contrary.

The hours of opening will be 10 o'clock in the morning on week days, and 2 o'clock in the afternoon on Sundays.

The hours of closing will be 6 o'clock in the evening from the 1st of April to the 30th of September, both days inclusive, and 4 o'clock during the winter months.

They will be closed on Christmas Day and Good Friday.

=Contents.=

PAGE FRONTISPIECE. H.R.H. THE PRINCESS VICTORIA AT THE AGE OF FOUR 4 NOTICE TO VISITORS 6 _Plate_--KENSINGTON PALACE AND GARDENS IN THE REIGN OF QUEEN ANNE 8 PREFACE 14

=Historical Sketch.=

EARLY HISTORY OF KENSINGTON 17 BUILDING OF THE PALACE 18 DEATHS OF QUEEN MARY AND KING WILLIAM 19 QUEEN ANNE AT KENSINGTON PALACE 20 DEATH OF PRINCE GEORGE OF DENMARK 22 DEATH OF QUEEN ANNE 22 GEORGE I. AT KENSINGTON PALACE 23 GEORGE II. AT KENSINGTON PALACE 24 KENSINGTON IN GEORGE III.'S REIGN 25 BIRTH OF QUEEN VICTORIA 26 _Plate_--THE DUCHESS OF KENT WITH PRINCESS VICTORIA (AGED TWO YEARS) 27 QUEEN VICTORIA'S EARLY YEARS AT KENSINGTON 29 THE QUEEN'S CHILDHOOD AT KENSINGTON PALACE 30 _Plate_--THE PRINCESS VICTORIA IN 1825 31 PRINCESS VICTORIA BECOMES HEIRESS TO THE THRONE 34 QUEEN VICTORIA'S ACCESSION 36 QUEEN VICTORIA'S FIRST COUNCIL 37 KENSINGTON PALACE IN RECENT YEARS 40 RESTORATION OF THE STATE ROOMS 41 METHODS OF RESTORATION 42 ARRANGEMENT OF THE PICTURES 44 ASSOCIATIONS WITH QUEEN VICTORIA 45

=Descriptive and Historical Guide.=

OLD KENSINGTON PALACE GARDENS 47 QUEEN ANNE'S GARDENS 49 QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 51 TERRACE OF QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 53 EXTERIOR OF QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 54 INTERIOR OF QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 55 THE ALCOVES OF QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 56 RESTORATION OF QUEEN ANNE'S ORANGERY 56 KENSINGTON GARDENS 58 QUEEN CAROLINE'S IMPROVEMENTS IN KENSINGTON GARDENS 58 KENSINGTON GARDENS IN THE NINETEENTH CENTURY 59 _Plate_--SOUTH FRONT OF KENSINGTON PALACE IN 1819--AFTER WESTALL 61 SOUTH FRONT OF THE PALACE 63 WREN'S DOMESTIC STYLE 63 EAST FRONT OF THE PALACE 64 _Plate_--PLAN OF THE STATE ROOMS 66 PUBLIC ENTRANCE TO THE PALACE 67 QUEEN'S STAIRCASE 68 OLD OAK WAINSCOTING OF THE STAIRCASE 69 WINDOW SASHES OF THE STAIRCASE 69 QUEEN MARY'S GALLERY 70 WAINSCOTING AND CARVINGS OF QUEEN MARY'S GALLERY 71 PICTURES IN QUEEN MARY'S GALLERY. PORTRAITS OF THE TIME OF WILLIAM AND MARY TO GEORGE II 73 QUEEN'S CLOSET 77 PICTURES OF "OLD LONDON" 77 QUEEN ANNE'S PRIVATE DINING ROOM 80 PICTURES IN QUEEN ANNE'S PRIVATE DINING ROOM 81 QUEEN MARY'S PRIVY CHAMBER 83 PICTURES IN QUEEN MARY'S PRIVY CHAMBER 83 QUEEN CAROLINE'S DRAWING ROOM 87 PAINTED CEILING OF THE QUEEN'S DRAWING ROOM 88 CONTEMPORARY FRENCH AND GERMAN PORTRAITS 88 THE CUPOLA OR CUBE ROOM 93 THE PAINTED CEILING OF THE CUBE ROOM 94 _Plate_--THE CUPOLA OR CUBE ROOM AS IT WAS WHEN THE QUEEN WAS BAPTIZED IN IT 95 PAINTED WALLS OF THE CUBE ROOM 96 GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE CUPOLA ROOM 98 KING'S DRAWING ROOM 99 PAINTED CEILING OF THE KING'S DRAWING ROOM 99 WILLIAM KENT, THE ROYAL AND FASHIONABLE DECORATOR 100 _Plate_--KING'S DRAWING ROOM 101 KENT THE FATHER OF MODERN GARDENING 103 WEST'S PICTURES IN THE KING'S DRAWING ROOM 104 KING'S PRIVY CHAMBER 108 PORTRAITS OF GEORGE III.'S TIME 108 THE NURSERY 113 Pictures and Prints illustrative of the Queen's Life and Reign 113 ANTE-ROOM 114 PRINTS ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE LIFE AND REIGN OF THE QUEEN 114 QUEEN VICTORIA'S BEDROOM 115 PRINTS OF THE LIFE AND REIGN OF THE QUEEN 116 MEMENTOES AND RELICS OF THE QUEEN'S CHILDHOOD COLLECTED IN "QUEEN VICTORIA'S BEDROOM" 116 KING'S GALLERY 117 DECORATIVE CARVINGS IN THE "KING'S GALLERY" 117 CHIMNEY-PIECE, MAP AND DIAL 118 _Plate_--THE KING'S GALLERY 119 PAINTING OF THE CEILING AND WAINSCOT OF THE KING'S GALLERY 121 NAVAL PICTURES IN THE KING'S GALLERY 122 KING'S GRAND STAIRCASE 129 KENT'S ALTERATIONS IN THE KING'S GRAND STAIRCASE 130 _Plate_--THE KING'S GRAND STAIRCASE 131 PAINTED WALLS OF THE KING'S GRAND STAIRCASE 133 PAINTED CEILING OF THE KING'S GRAND STAIRCASE 135 PRESENCE CHAMBER 137 PAINTED CEILING OF THE PRESENCE CHAMBER 138 CEREMONIAL PICTURES OF QUEEN VICTORIA'S REIGN 139

=Preface.=

The following pages, compiled under the sanction of the Lord Chamberlain of Her Majesty's Household and the First Commissioner of Her Majesty's Works and Buildings, are intended to meet the requirements of visitors to the State Rooms of Kensington Palace, now open by command of the Queen to the inspection of the public during Her Majesty's pleasure. This little book, therefore, is to be understood as aiming only at a descriptive and historical account of the particular parts of the building on view--not, in any sense, as attempting a general history of the Palace. Nevertheless, the author may, perhaps, be permitted to say that, as far as his object extends, he has endeavoured to render the information here given as accurate and complete as possible, by devoting the same amount of time and labour to research and verification, as though he had been writing a book of a critical nature for a restricted circle of readers, instead of a mere handbook for ordinary sightseers.

In this way, the writer conceives, can he best promote the object which, it may be assumed, the Queen and Her Majesty's Government have had in view in restoring and opening these State Rooms to the public--namely, that they should serve as an object-lesson in history and art, and a refining influence of popular culture and education.

In pursuance of this design the author has had recourse not only to such well-known standard authorities on his subject as Pyne's "History of Royal Residences," 1819; Faulkner's "History of Kensington," 1820; Leigh Hunt's "Old Court Suburb," 1853; and Mr. Loftie's "Kensington--Picturesque and Historical," 1887; but also to a large number of earlier and less known historical and topographical works, which have served to illustrate many things connected with the history of this interesting old building.

His main sources of information, however, have been the old manuscripts, parchment rolls, and state papers, preserved in the British Museum and Record Office--especially the "Declared Accounts" and "Treasury Papers," containing the original estimates, accounts and reports of Sir Christopher Wren and his successors, relating to the works and buildings at Kensington. None of these have ever before been examined or published; and they throw much light on the art and decoration of this palace, while also, for the first time, setting at rest many hitherto debatable points.

The author must here once again--as in works of a similar nature elsewhere--express his obligations for the kind assistance he has received from all those who have charge of the Queen's palaces--the Hon. Sir Spencer Ponsonby Fane, G.C.B., Comptroller of Her Majesty's Household; the Hon. Reginald Brett, C.B., Secretary of Her Majesty's Board of Works and Buildings; Sir John Taylor, K.C.B., Consulting Architect and Surveyor to the Board; and Mr. Philip, Clerk of the Works at Kensington Palace.

At the same time he wishes to make it clear that for the information contained herein, and for the opinions and views expressed, he himself is alone responsible.

Here also the author must make his acknowledgments to the editor of "The Gentlewoman," who has kindly lent him the blocks for the portraits of the Queen.

It may be as well to take this opportunity of emphasizing what is more fully insisted on in subsequent pages, that Kensington Palace, as a public resort, is not to be considered in the light of an Art Gallery, but as a Palace with historical pictures in it. The clear understanding of this may prevent misapprehension as to the scheme followed in restoring the state rooms to their original state, where the pictures--and their frames--are arranged on the walls as a part only of their furniture and decoration.

Finally, it may be observed that though the outline of the history of the Palace, prefixed to the description of the State Rooms, has necessarily been brief, the Queen's early life, and the interesting events that took place here in June 1837, seemed to require a fuller treatment. These, therefore, have been described in detail, mainly in the words of eye-witnesses, which, though they have often been printed before, may, being repeated here, acquire--the compiler has thought--a new vividness and interest, when read on the very spot where they were enacted; and thus insure for these famous scenes an even wider popularity than before.

HISTORICAL SKETCH.

=Early History of Kensington.=

Kensington Palace, built by William and Mary, occupied by Queen Anne as one of her favourite residences, enlarged by George I. and greatly appreciated by George II. and his queen, Caroline, has received a greater renown and more interesting associations from having been the birthplace and early home of Queen Victoria. In celebration of the eightieth anniversary of that ever-memorable and auspicious event, Her Majesty decided on opening the State Apartments free to the public on the 24th of May, 1899, during Her Majesty's pleasure.

Before recapitulating the events of the Queen's early life here, we must give a brief outline of the history of the Palace since it became a royal residence.

The original building, of which it is probable that a good deal still stands, was erected mainly by Sir Heneage Finch, Lord Chancellor and Earl of Nottingham, who acquired the estate, including some hundred and fifty acres of meadow and park--now Kensington Gardens--from his brother Sir John Finch. Hence it was known as Nottingham House; and under that title it was bought from Daniel Finch, the second earl, for the sum of 18,000 guineas, in the summer or autumn of 1689, by King William III., who was anxious to have a convenient residence near enough to Whitehall for the transaction of business, and yet sufficiently far to be out of the smoky atmosphere, in which he found it impossible to breathe. The King, assisted by his Queen, at once set about enlarging and embellishing the mansion, and laying out new gardens.

=Building of the Palace.=

The works seem to have been begun on or very soon after the 1st of October, 1689. We learn this from the enrolled account of "Thomas Lloyd, Paymaster of Their Majesties Workes and Buildinges," made up from "paybookes subscribed with the handes of Sir Christopher Wren, Knight Surveyor of the workes; William Talman, Comptroller; John Oliver, Master Mason; and Matthew Bankes, Master Carpenter, and with the hand of Nicolas Hawkesmore, clerke of the said workes, according to the ancient usual and due course of the office of their Majesties workes."

In the second week of November a news-letter informs us that the new apartment, then being built, "suddenly fell flat to the ground, killing seven or eight workmen and labourers. The Queen had been in that apartment but a little while before."

By February 25th, 1690, they were sufficiently advanced for Evelyn to record in his diary: "I went to Kensington, which King William has bought of Lord Nottingham, and altered, but was yet a patched building, but with the garden, it is a very sweete villa, having to it the Park, and a straight new way through this Park." The making of this new road cost just about £8,000.

Building operations were continued during the King's absence in Ireland; and the day before the news of the battle of the Boyne reached Queen Mary she spent a few quiet hours in the gardens here, writing the same evening, July 5th, to William: "The place made me think how happy I was there when I had your dear company." Until his return she continued to overlook the building, and on August 6th following, writes again as to the progress of the building: "The outside of the house is fiddling work, which takes up more time than can be imagined; and while the _schafolds_ are up, the windows must be boarded up, but as soon as that is done, your own apartment may be furnished." And a week after: "I have been this day to Kensington, which looks really very well, at least to a poor body like me, who have been so long condemned to this place (Whitehall) and see nothing but water and wall."

The work of improving Kensington House continued for another year or more, costing during this period £60,000. It was, however, far from finished, when, in November, 1691, a serious fire occurred, necessitating re-building at a cost of upwards of £6,000. From the year 1691 to 1696 another £35,000 was spent in further "altering the old house," and in additional works of decoration in the galleries and other rooms--details as to which will be given in our description of those apartments.

Extensive alterations and improvements were also in progress at the same time in the gardens, which at this period were confined to the ground east and south of the Palace, as to which we shall refer again.

=Deaths of Queen Mary and King William.=

Ere the work, however, was completed, Queen Mary was taken ill at Kensington with small pox in December, 1694. On learning the nature of her illness she locked herself in her closet, burned some papers, and calmly awaited her fate, which quickly came a few days after, the 28th of December.

Evelyn visited Kensington again in 1696, and speaks of it then as "noble but not greate," commending especially the King's Gallery, which was then filled with the finest pictures in the royal collection, "a greate collection of Porcelain, and a pretty private library. The gardens about it very delicious." Peter the Great's visit to William III. in this same gallery is referred to in our description of it below.

The next event of moment is William III.'s own death at Kensington Palace, after his accident in Hampton Court Park. "Je tirs vers ma fin," said he to Albemarle, who had hurried from Holland to his master's bedside; and to his physician: "I know that you have done all that skill and learning could do for me; but the case is beyond your art, I must submit." "Can this," he said soon after, "last long?" He was told that the end was approaching. He swallowed a cordial, and asked for Bentinck. Those were his last articulate words. "Bentinck instantly came to the bedside, bent down, and placed his ear close to the King's mouth. The lips of the dying man moved, but nothing could be heard. The King took the hand of his earliest friend and pressed it tenderly to his heart. In that moment, no doubt, all that had cast a slight passing cloud over their long pure friendship was forgotten. It was now between seven and eight in the morning. He closed his eyes, and gasped for breath. The bishops knelt down and read the commendatory prayer. When it ended William was no more. When his remains were laid out, it was found that he wore next to his skin a small piece of black silk ribbon. The lords in waiting ordered it to be taken off. It contained a gold ring and a lock of the hair of Mary."

=Queen Anne at Kensington Palace.=

Fond as William and Mary had been of Kensington, Queen Anne was even more attached to it still;--and it became her usual residence whenever it was necessary for her to be near the great offices of state. She seems to have remained satisfied with the palace as it had been finished by her predecessors, except for the addition of one or two small rooms "in the little court behind the gallery," perhaps because King William bequeathed to her a debt of upwards of £4,000 for his buildings at Kensington.

She devoted, however, a great deal of care and expense to the improving and enlarging of the Palace gardens--as to which we shall have more to say when we come to describe them. Queen Anne, indeed, was, in this respect, thoroughly English. She loved her plants and flowers, and would spend hours pottering about her gardens at Kensington. The appearance of her gardens will best be seen from our reduced facsimile of Kip's large engraving, published about 1714 in his "Britannia Illustrata." In the right distance is seen that most beautiful building called the "Orangery" or green-house, erected by her orders--which we shall fully describe on a subsequent page.

Besides enlarging the gardens round about the Palace, Queen Anne greatly extended the area of the park-like enclosed grounds attached to Kensington Palace. Mr. Loftie has declared that "neither Queen Anne nor Queen Caroline took an acre from Hyde Park." But this we have found not to be the fact. In an old report on the "State of the Royal Gardens and Plantations at Ladyday, 1713," among the Treasury Papers in the Record Office, there is a distinct reference to "The Paddock joyning to the Gardens, _taken from Hyde Park in 1705_, and stocked with fine deer and antelopes;" and again in another document, dated May 26th in the same year, being a memorial to the Lord High Treasurer from Henry Portman, Ranger of Hyde Park, it is stated that "near 100 acres had been enclosed from the park of Kensington, whereby the profits he had by herbage were much reduced." Later on, in George II.'s reign, in 1729, we find a grant of £200 made to William, Earl of Essex, Ranger of Hyde Park, "in consideration of loss of herbage of that part of the said park which is laid into his Majesty's gardens at Kensington."

=Death of Prince George of Denmark.=

It was at Kensington Palace that Anne's husband, Prince George of Denmark, at length succumbed, in 1708, to a prolonged illness of gout and asthma. During his last sickness and death, Anne had the "consolation" of the Duchess of Marlborough's "sympathy." Her Grace's deportment, according to an eye-witness, "while the Prince was actually dying, was of such a nature that the Queen, then in the height of her grief, was not able to bear it." She actually forced her way, as Mistress of the Robes, to the poor Prince's deathbed, and only drew into the background when peremptorily ordered by the heart-broken wife to leave the room. After Prince George had breathed his last, she stepped forward again, and when all the others had left, insisted on remaining with poor Anne, who was "weeping and _clapping_ her hands together, and swaying herself backwards and forwards" in an agony of grief. The Queen was at length induced to accede to the Duchess's advice to leave "_that dismal body_" and remove to St. James's.

Two years later, in these very same state rooms of Kensington Palace took place the famous final interview between the Queen and her whilom favourite, also subsequently noticed in our description of "Queen Anne's Private Dining Room."

=Death of Queen Anne.=