Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7
Part 9
The Pilot did as he was order’d, he sounded and observed the proper Places to come near several Coasts. At Night he and his Men being in all likelyhood tir’d, they thought fit to go Ashore and lie upon the Land. They made a Fire, perhaps to dress some Meat; but neglecting to stand upon their Guard, they were surpriz’d, and all six of them kill’d by the Savages; who also broke their Canoe, and thus reveng’d themselves for the Irruption Monsr. _de la Sale_ had lately made among them.
More Time being elaps’d than Monsieur _de la Sale_ had allotted those Men to return, he grew uneasy, and went himself along the Coast, to see if any News could be had of them, and keeping along the Shore, he found the sad Remains of those unfortunate Wretches, whose Carcasses scatter’d about, were torn and almost devour’d by Wolves or Wild Dogs, a Spectacle which went to his Heart.
However this Loss, which afflicted him, and particularly for the Sake of the Pilot, who was an able Man, did not quite cast him down; but exerting himself against his Misfortunes, he caus’d Flesh to be dry’d, and with that and the other Provisions he victuall’d the Bark _la Belle_. He caus’d it to advance into the Bay, put a good Number of Men on Board to secure it, among whom were Monsieur _Chedeville_, the Priest, and _Planterose_ of _Roan_, and order’d them not to stir from that Place till they heard from him, and not to go Ashore, unless with a good Guard and necessary Precautions.
Next, he chose out Twenty Men, imbark’d on two Canoes he had left, and being come Ashore, caus’d the Canoes to be sunk in the River, and every Man to take up his Bundle, consisting of Arms, Tools, some Utensils for the Kitchin, a few Goods, to trade with the Natives, if he should find any sociable, and so advanc’d into the Country, to try if any Notice could be had of the _Missisipi_.
[Sidenote: La Maligne _River_.]
After several Days March, they came to a good pleasant River, which they afterwards call’d _la Maligne_. Monsieur _de la Sale_ marching at the Head of the Company, and having order’d Monsieur _Moranget_ to keep in the Rear; it happen’d that _Duhaut_ stopping to mend his Snapsack[70] and his Shoes, which were in a bad Condition; the Sieur _Moranget_ coming up, commanded him to March, he desired him to stay a little. _Moranget_ would not, but held on his Way; _Duhaut_ follow’d some Time after, but having stay’d too long, he could not overtake the Company, and found himself about Night fall in a Plain full of Weeds, where there were several Tracks of the Way Cattle had gone, but knew not which of them to take. He fir’d his Piece several Times, without hearing any thing of his Company, and was oblig’d to pass the Night in that same Place.
[Sidenote: _Strange Adventure._]
[Sidenote: _Feb. 1686_]
In the Morning he shot again, spent the Day and Night again in that Place, so that not knowing what to do, he return’d the same Way he had gone, and after a Month’s March, for he travell’d only by Night, for Fear of meeting with the Savages, living upon what he kill’d with much Difficulty and Danger, having before spent all his own Provisions; at length after most unaccountable Hardships and Sufferings, he arriv’d at the Place where the Canoes had been sunk. He took one of them up, with incredible Labour, and too long to relate, and so came to our Habitation of St. _Lewis_. Thus it pleas’d God that he who was to be one of the Murderers of Monsieur _de la Sale_, should come off safe, and surmount almost infinite Dangers.
This Account, which seem’d to carry the Face of Probability, prevail’d with me to receive the Sieur _Duhaut_, and in Reality I could do no otherwise, and I made it my Business to examine into his Behaviour, but could find Nothing to lay to his Charge. We continued some Time longer as we had been before; during the which, I caus’d another little Wooden Structure to be made, of Timber, I had got together, and in it I lodg’d the Women and Maidens by themselves. Having hitherto said Nothing of the Situation of our Dwelling of St. _Lewis_, nor of the Nature of the Country we were in, I will here venture upon a plain but true Description.
[Sidenote: _Description of the Country and Dwelling at St._ Lewis.]
We were in about the 27th Degree of North Latitude, two Leagues up the Country, near the Bay of St. _Lewis_ and the Bank of the River _aux Bœufs_, on a little Hillock, whence we discover’d vast and beautiful Plains, extending very far to the Westward, all level and full of Greens, which afford Pasture to an infinite Number of Beeves and other Creatures.
[Sidenote: _The Land._]
Turning from the West to the Southward, there appear’d other Plains adorn’d with several little Woods of several Sorts of Trees. Towards the South and East was the Bay, and the Plains that hem it in from the East; to the Northward, was the River running along by a little Hill,[71] beyond which there were other large Plains, with some little Tufts of Wood at small Distances, terminating in a Border of Wood, which seem’d to us to be very high.
[Sidenote: _Living Creatures._]
Between that little Hill and our Dwelling, was a Sort of Marsh, and in it Abundance of wild Fowl, as Curlies, Water-Hens and other Sorts. In the Marsh there were little Pools full of Fish. We had also an infinite Number of Beeves, wild Goats, Rabbits, Turkeys, Bustards, Geese, Swans, Feldifares, Plovers, Teal, Partridges and many other Sorts of Fowl fit to eat, and among them one call’d _le grand Gosier_, or, the great Gullet, because it has a very large one; another as big and Fleshy as a Pullet, which we called the _Spatula_, because it’s Beak is shap’d like one, and the Feathers of it being of a pale Red, are very beautiful.
[Sidenote: _Fish._]
As for Fish, we had several Sorts in the River and in the Lakes I have mention’d. The River afforded a Sort of Barbles, differing from ours in Roundness, in their having three Bones sticking out, one on the Back, the others on each Side of the Head, and in the Flesh, which is like Cod, and without Scales. The River supply’d us with Abundance of other Fishes, whose Names we know not. The Sea afforded us Oysters, Eeles, Trouts, a Sort of red Fishes and others whose long, sharp and hard Beak tore all our Nets.
[Sidenote: _Tortoises._]
[Sidenote: _Venomous Creatures._]
We had Plenty both of Land and Sea Tortoises, whose Eggs serv’d to season our Sauces. The Land Tortoises differ from those of the Sea, as being smaller, round, and their Shell more beautiful. They hide themselves in Holes they find or make in the Earth. It was looking for these Tortoises, that one of our Surgeons, thrust his Arm into a Hole, and was bit by some venomous Creature, which we suppos’d to be a Sort of Toad, having four Feet, the Top of his Back sharp and very hard, with a little Tail. Whether it was this Creature, or a Snake, his Arm swelled very much, however he was cured by such Applications as were made Use of; but it cost him a Finger was cut off.
[Sidenote: _Rattle-Snakes._]
Among the venomous Sorts of Snakes, as Vipers, Asps and others, whereof there are many, those call’d Rattle-Snakes are the most common. They generally lye among the Brambles, where they make a Noise by the Motion of two Scales they have at the End of their Tail, which is heard at a considerable Distance, and therefore they are call’d Rattle-Snakes. Some of our Men had eaten of them and found their Flesh was not amiss, and when we had kill’d any of them, our Swine made a good Meal.
[Sidenote: _Alligators._]
There are also many Alligators in the Rivers, some of them of a frightful Magnitude and Bulk. I kill’d one that was between four and five Foot about, and twenty Foot in Length, on which our Swine feasted. This Creature has very short Legs, insomuch that it rather drags along than walks, and it is easy to follow the Tract of it, either among the Weeds or on the Sands, where it has been. It is very ravenous, and attacks either Men or Beasts, when they are within Reach in the River, and comes also ashore to seek for Food. It has this particular Quality, that it flies from such as pursue, and pursues those who fly from it. I have shot many of them dead.
[Sidenote: _Trees._]
The Woods are composed of Trees of several Sorts. There are Oaks, some of them ever green and never without Leaves; others like ours in _Europe_, bearing a Fruit much like our Galls, and lose their Leaves in Winter, and another Sort not unlike ours in _France_, but the Bark of them thicker, these as well as the second Sort bear an Acorn, differing from ours both in Taste and Bigness.
[Sidenote: _Dangerous Fruit._]
There is a Sort of Tree, which bears small Berries, which, when ripe, are red, and indifferent pleasant. It bears twice a Year, but the second Crop never ripens. There is another Tree, bearing a Fruit not unlike _Cassia_, in Taste and Virtue.
There are others of the Sort I had seen in the Islands, whose Leaves are like Rackets, whence the Tree bears the Name. The Blossoms grow out about the Leaves, and of them comes a Fruit somewhat resembling Figs, but the Leaves and the Fruit are full of Prickles, which must be carefully rubb’d and taken off, before it is eaten, else they dangerously inflame the Mouth and the Throat, and may prove mortal, as happen’d to one of our Soldiers, who had eaten of them too greedily, and without that Precaution.
I have seen some Trees resembling the Palm, whose lofty and long Branches spread like that call’d the _Latanier_, bearing a Fruit, said to be indifferent good. Others the same Sort, but whose Leaves are like Gutters, harsh and so sharp pointed, that they will pierce the thickest Stuffs. This Tree has a Sprout on the Top, which shoots out Flowers in the Shape of a Nosegay, of a whitish yellow, and some of them at the Top of that Sprout have sixty or eighty Flowers hanging down, not unlike the Flower de Luce, and after those Flowers follows a Fruit as long as a Man’s Finger, and thicker than the Thumb, full of little Seeds, so that there is scarce any Thing but the Rhind fit to eat, the Taste whereof is sweet and delicate.
[Sidenote: _Vines._]
There are Abundance of creeping Vines and others, that run up the Bodies and to the Tops of Trees, which bear plenty of Grapes, fleshy and sharp, not to compare to the Delicacy of ours in _Europe_; but we made Verjuice of them, which was very good in Sauce. Mulberry Trees are numerous along the Rivers, their Fruit is smaller, but sweeter and more delicious than ours; their Leaves are beautiful and large, which would be of good Use for feeding of Silk-worms.
[Sidenote: _Plants._]
[Sidenote: _March 1686_]
The Plains are strew’d with a Sort of small Sorrel, the Leaf whereof is like Trefoil, and the Taste of it sharp like ours. There are Abundance of small Onions, no bigger than the Top of a Man’s Finger, but very well tasted, and when the Heat has scorch’d up the Plains, that Plant shoots out first, and produces Flowers which look like an agreeable Enamel. Nothing is more beautiful than to behold those vast Plains, when the Blossoms appear; a thousand Sorts of different Colours, whereof many[72] have an agreeable Scent, adorn those Fields, and afford a most charming Object to the Eye. I have observed some that smelt like a Tuberose, but the Leaf resembles our Borage. I have seen Primroses, having a Scent like ours, _African_ Gilliflowers, and a Sort of purple wind Flowers. The Autumn Flowers are almost all of them yellow, so that the Plains look all of that Colour.
The Climate is mild and temperate, tho’ we were in about 27 Degrees of North Latitude, and yet the Seeds I caused to be sow’d did not thrive; whether it was because they had been soak’d in the Sea Water, or for any other Reason. Some came up pretty well, as Pompions, Melons, Parsnips and Endive; but the Beasts and the Insects, left us not much. When we come to the _Cenis_ and have travers’d so many Nations as lay between us and them, I shall speak of the Religion, Manners, Cloathing, Houses and Customs of the Natives, wherein they differ but little from one another, tho’ of several Countries.
Monsieur _de la Sale_ had been now long gone, and we began to be in Pain for him, when about the Middle of _March 1686_, hapning to be on the Top of the House, I spied seven or eight Persons coming towards us. I presently ordered eight arm’d Men to follow me, to go meet them; and as soon as we drew near them, we knew Monsieur _de la Sale_, Monsieur _Cavelier_, his brother, Monsieur _Moranget_, his Nephew and five or six Men with them, the rest being gone another Way to find out the Bark _la Belle_, to give Notice of Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Arrival.
[Sidenote: _Monsieur_ de la Sale _returns_.]
They were in a bad Condition, their Cloaths ragged, Monsieur _Cavelier’s_ short Cassock hung in Tatters; most of them had not Hats, and their Linen was no better; however the Sight of Monsieur _de la Sale_ rejoyc’d us all. The Account he gave us of his Journey reviv’d our Hopes, tho’ he had not found the fatal River, and we thought only of making ourselves as merry as we could. Only the Sight of the Sieur _Duhaut_ interrupted it for some Time. Monsieur _de la Sale_ ask’d me in an angry Manner, why I had receiv’d him, and _Duhaut_ having given his Reasons, as I and my Men did,[73] we were all satisfy’d.
[Sidenote: _The Bark_ la Belle _lost_.]
The next Day, the Sieurs _le Barbier_, _Bihorel_, _le Petit_, _Cavelier_, the Nephew, the Surgeon and others, whom Monsieur _de la Sale_ had sent to find out and carry Advice to the Bark _la Belle_, return’d, and said they could not find her, which was another fresh Cause of Much Uneasiness to Monsieur _de la Sale_. He had been guilty of the Fault of putting aboard her, his Cloaths, his Linen, his Papers and all his best Effects, of all which he was then in the utmost Need. Besides, that Loss broke all the Measures he had concerted during his last Expedition, because he had resolv’d to cause the said Bark to go up one of the Rivers he had discover’d, to advance towards those Nations with whom he had contracted some Friendship, and to send me in the same Bark, with his Nephew _Moranget_, to the Islands to seek for some Assistance, or else to return by Sea to look for his River.
[Sidenote: _Apr. 1686_]
All these Designs being disappointed, he resolv’d to set out a second Time, and travel by Land, to find out his River.[74] He staid to rest him a while, and to provide for his Departure, but having neither Linen nor Cloaths, I supply’d him with some I had; I also afforded some Linen to Monsieur _Cavelier_, his Brother and Monsieur _Moranget_, his Nephew. All I had was at their Service, and I depriv’d myself of all that was fit for them, even to ten or twelve Pounds of strings of Beads and some Knives and Nails,[75] which Monsieur _de la Sale_ took.
The Sieur _Duhaut_, having several Effects, as Linen, Hatchets and other Tools and Commodities, which had been sav’d from the Shipwreck, Monsieur _de la Sale_ took Linen to make Shirts, for such as wanted, as also the Tools they stood in Need of. The Cloaths belonging to Messieurs _Thibault_, _le Gros_ and _Carpentier_, who were dead, were also distributed. A great Belt I had, serv’d to make Shoes for Monsieur _de la Sale_ and Monsieur _Cavelier._
[Sidenote: _Monsieur_ de la Sale _sets out upon another Expedition_.]
All Things being thus provided, Monsieur _de la Sale_ took twenty Men along with him, among whom were Monsieur _Cavelier_ his Brother, F. _Anastasius_ a Recolet, Monsieur _Moranget_ his Nephew, the Sieurs _Bihorel_, _le Clerk_, _Hurier_, _Duhaut_ the younger, _Hiens_ his Surgeon, and his Servants. He left behind those, who were not fit to undertake that second Journey, among whom were little Monsieur _Cavelier_[76] his Nephew, the Sieur _Barbier_, _Canadien_ and some others. Each of the Travellers made up his Pack, and they set out towards the latter End of _April 1686_,[77] after having given me the necessary Orders, and we parted without Ceremony, Monsieur _de la Sale_ desiring it should be so.
[Sidenote: _What was saved of the Bark_ la Belle.]
[Sidenote: _May 1686_]
Some Days after he was gone, I heard a Voice towards the lower Part of the River, crying twice _Qui vive_, or who are you for. I made that Way, and perceiv’d the Sieur _Chedeville_ a Priest, the Sieur _de la Sablonniere_, and some others of those who had been put aboard the Bark _la Belle_, and were now in a Canoe. I ask’d abruptly what was become of the Bark, and was inform’d, our continual Misfortunes still pursuing us, that it had run aground on the other Side of the Bay. I caused the Canoe to be unloaded, there being in it, among other Things, Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Cloaths, Part of his Papers, some Linen, a small Quantity of Beads and thirty or forty Pound of Meal, which was all they had left.
[Sidenote: _How the Bark was lost._]
The next Day, Monsieur _de Chedeville_ told me the Particulars of that Misfortune, and said, That having been some Time with the Bark, in the Place where Monsieur _de la Sale_ had appointed them to wait, their Water falling short, they had thought fit to send the Boat ashore, with four or five Casks to fill; that the Sieur _Planterose_ went in it with six of the best Men. That towards the Evening they saw the Boat coming back, but the Wind being contrary and Night coming on, they put out a Light, which going out and the Captain neglecting to put up another, in all Likelyhood the Boat could not see the Bark, and they never heard of it after, nor of any of those in it, who it was probable had all perish’d.
That nevertheless, they continued some Days in the same Place, during which Time three or four of their Men died; and at last, having no Water, they eat up their Swine, before they died with Thirst, and resolv’d to weigh Anchor and draw near to the Dwelling; but having few Hands and those spent, and to add to their Misfortune the Wind proving contrary, they were drove to the other Side of the Bay, where they ran aground.
[Sidenote: _June 1686_]
That having no Boat, nor Men enough to land their Effects, they had endeavour’d to make a Float with some Casks and Planks, but that being ill made and join’d together, the first that went upon it had perish’d. That having made another Float better fastened together than the first, they had by that Means saved some Sails and Rigging, several inconsiderable Things, Linen, Cloaths and Papers belonging to Monsieur _de la Sale_ and others, and then stay’d Ashore, expecting to hear some News, and had found a Canoe, being the same that was before lost on the Edge of the Bay, which had been drove to the other Side; and that Provisions at last beginning to fall short, they went aboard the said Canoe and came to us; fortunate in that they had not been discover’d by the Natives, during their Stay Ashore, which was for the Space of three Months, and in finding the Canoe to bring them back.
When Monsieur _de la Sale_ went away, the Sieur _Barbier_ had taken upon him to go a hunting, as also to provide Bark to cover our Houses, instead of Hides, because the Sun drying and contracting them, Part of the Top of our Buildings was uncover’d. I farther enjoyn’d him to cut Stakes, to make a Palisade about our Dwelling, and the Sieur _Chedeville_ having told me they had bury’d several Things they could not bring away, I sent the Sieur _Barbier_ with two Canoes and fifteen Men to the Place, where they found some Pedreroes,[78] Rigging and Sails. The Natives having discover’d the Concealment, had taken away some Pieces of Linen and Iron Tools, which they very much covet.
[Sidenote: _Encounter with the Natives._]
The Sieur _Barbier_ after his Return, continuing his Exercise of hunting, happen’d to meet with a Parcel of the Natives, some of whom had Firelocks, which they had taken from our Men, and with which they made some Shots at him, but very weak; and he firing three or four Shot at them they retir’d. He was then in a Canoe on the River, and design’d to have gone upwards; but that Rancounter having oblig’d him to take another Way, and the Savages perceiving it, eight of them swam over the River, hastening to get before the Canoe, hid themselves among the Weeds, near the Way he was to pass, and when he was near enough, let fly their Arrows, which wounded several Men. One Shot the Sieur _Barbier_ made, put them all to Flight again; he held on his Way and return’d to our Habitation.
Some Days after, we perceiv’d a Herd of Bullocks flying, and guess’d they were pursu’d by the Savages, which afterwards appear’d to be true. Some of them drew near to our Habitation, but a Cannon Shot, I pointed towards the Gang of them, and a Musket-shot Monsieur _Barbier_ fired at the nearest, made them all fly farther off.
[Sidenote: _The Sieur_ Barbier _marries_.]
When the Sieur _Barbier_ went out a Hunting, I commonly sent with him some Women and Maids, to help the Hunters to dress and dry the Flesh; but being inform’d that he us’d to slip aside from the Company, with a young Maid he had a Kindness for, and which gave Occasion to some well-grounded Railleries; the said _Barbier_ being told I was acquainted with that Affair, came and spoke to me in private, desiring Leave to marry that young Woman. I made some Difficulty of it at first, advising him to stay till Monsieur _de la Sale_ return’d; but at last, considering they might have anticipated upon Matrimony, I took the Advice of the Recolet Fathers, and of Monsieur _Chedeville_ the Priest, and allowed them to marry. Monsieur _le Marquis de la Sabloniere_ following this Example, ask’d the same Liberty, being in Love with a young Maid, which I absolutely refus’d, and forbid them seeing one another.
[Sidenote: _Accidents concerning the Recolets._]
Some Time pass’d in which Nothing happen’d to us worth observing; however, I will mention two Things which befell our Recolet Fathers. One was, That Father _Anastasius_, being a hunting Bullocks with me, and coming too near one I had shot, and was fallen, the Beast, as much hurt as he was, started up, attack’d and threw him down; he had much ado to get off, and I to rescue him, because I durst not shoot for Fear of killing him. The Bullock being weak, fell again; the Father was deliver’d, but lay ill some Months. The other was, That Father _Maximus_ had writ some Memoirs concerning Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Conduct, condemning him upon several Occasions. I was told of it, found Means to get those Memoirs, threw them into the Fire, and so the Father came off.
[Sidenote: Duhaut _Endeavours to occasion a Mutiny_.]
About the same Time, most of our Men seeing Monsieur _de le Sale_ did not return, began to mutter. The Sieur _Duhaut_, who perhaps had been the first Fomenter of those Discontents, back’d the Complaints of the disgusted Party, promis’d them great Matters under his Conduct, and offer’d to supply them with such Effects as he had in Possession, endeavouring, as I suppose, by those Means, to gain their Affections, for a mischievous Design, which it is likely he had even then conceiv’d.
It was not long before, I had Intimation of the whole Affair, and I had done Monsieur _de la Sale_ a singular Piece of Service, had I then put to Death the Person, who was to be his Murderer; but I rested satisfy’d with giving him a severe Reprimand, and threat’ning to cause him to be secur’d if he persisted, being able to do no other under my present Circumstances. However, I talk’d to all concern’d, and put them in such Hopes of Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Return, and that Things would soon change to their Satisfaction, that they were all pacify’d.