Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7
Part 6
The 18th, the Wind being fresh, we made ready, and sail’d about Ten in the Morning, standing _North_ and _N._ and by _W._ and held our Course till Noon; the Point of Cape St. _Anthony_ bearing _East_ and _West_ with us, and so continu’d steering _North-West_, till the 19th at Noon, when we found our selves in the Latitude of 22 Degrees 58 minutes _North_, and in 287 Degrees 54 Minutes Longitude.
Finding the Wind shifting from one Side to another, we directed our Course several Ways, but that which prov’d advantageous to us, was the fair Weather, and that was a great Help, so that scarce a Day pass’d without taking an Observation.
The 20th, we found the Variation of the Needle was 5 Degrees _West_, and we were in 26 Degrees 40 Minutes of North Latitude and 285 Degrees 16 Minutes Longitude. The 23th it grew very cloudy,[46] which threaten’d stormy Weather, and we prepar’d to receive it, but came off only with the Apprehension, the Clouds dispersing several Ways, and we continu’d till the 27th in and about 28 Degrees 14 Minutes, and both by the Latitude and Estimation it was judg’d, that we were not far from Land.
The Bark call’d _la Belle_ was sent out to discover and keep before, sounding all the Way; and half an Hour before Sun-set, we saw the Vessel _la Belle_ put out her Colours and lie by for us. Being come up with her, the Master told us, he had found an Owzy Bottom at thirty two Fathom Water. At eight of the Clock we sounded also, and found forty Fathom, and at ten, but twenty five. About Midnight, _la Belle_ sounding again, found only seventeen, which being a Demonstration of the Nearness of the Land, we lay by for the _Joly_, to know what Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ design’d, who being come up, lay by with us.
The 27th, Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ sent the _Chevalier d’Aire_, his Lieutenant, and two Pilots to Monsieur _de la Sale_, to conclude upon the Course we were to steer, and it was agreed we should stand West North West till we came into six Fathom Water; that then we should run West, and when we had discover’d the Land, Boats should be sent to view the Country. Matters being thus agreed on, we sail’d again, sounding all the Way for the more Security, and about ten, were in ten or eleven Fathom Water, the Bottom fine greyish Sand and owzy. At Noon, were in 26 Degrees[47] 37 Minutes of North Latitude.
The 28th, being in eight or nine Fathom Water, we perceiv’d the Bark _la Belle_, which kept a Head of us, put out her Colours, which was the Signal of her having discover’d Something. A Sailor was sent up to the Main-Top, who descry’d the Land, to the N. E. not above six Leagues Distance from us, which being told to Monsieur _de Beaujeu_, he thought fit to come to an Anchor.
[Sidenote: _Jan. 1685_]
There being no Man among us who had any Knowledge of that Bay, where we had been told the Currents were strong, and sate swiftly to the _Eastward_, it made us suspect that we were fallen off, and that the Land we saw must be the Bay of _Apalache_, which oblig’d us on the 29th to steer _W. N. W._ still keeping along the Land, and it was agreed that the _Joly_ should follow us in six Fathom Water.
[Sidenote: _Currents._]
The 30th, the _Chevalier d’ Aire_ and the second Pilot of the _Joly_ came aboard us to confer and adjust by our Recknings what Place we might be in, and they all agreed, according to Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Opinion, that the Currents had set us to the _Eastward_, for which Reason we held on our Course, as we had done the Day before to the _N. W._ keeping along the Shore till the first of _January 1685_, when we perceiv’d that the Currents forc’d us towards the Land, which oblig’d us to come to an Anchor in six Fathom Water.
We had not been there long, before the Bark _la Belle_ made a Signal that she had discover’d Land, which we descry’d at about 4 Leagues Distance from us. Notice was given to Monsieur _de Beaujeu_, who drew near to us, and it was resolv’d to send some Person to discover and take an Account of the Land that appear’d to us.
Accordingly a Boat was man’d, and into it went Monsieur _de la Sale_, the _Chevalier d’ Aire_ and several others; another Boat was also put out, aboard which I went with Ten or Twelve of our Gentlemen, to join Monsieur _de la Sale_ and the Bark _la Belle_ was order’d to follow always keeping along the Shore; to the End that if the Wind shou’d rise, we might get aboard her, to lose no Time.
[Sidenote: _First Landing._]
Some of those who were in Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Boat, and the foremost,[48] went ashore and saw a spacious plain Country of much Pasture Ground; but had not the Leisure to make any particular Discovery, because the Wind freshning, they were oblig’d to return to their Boat, to come aboard again; which was the Reason why we did not go quite up to the Shore, but return’d with them to our Ship. All that could be taken Notice of was a great Quantity of Wood along the Coast. We took an Observation and found 29 Degrees 10 Minutes of North Latitude.
The Second, there arose a Fog, which made us lose Sight of the _Joly_. The next Day, the Weather clearing up, we fir’d some Cannon-shot and the _Joly_ answer’d, and towards the Evening we perceiv’d her to the Windward of us. We held on our Course, making several Trips till the Fourth in the Evening, when being in Sight and within two Leagues of the Land, we came to an Anchor to expect the _Joly_, for which we were in Pain.
[Sidenote: _Monsieur_ Joutel _believes here was one of the Mouths of the_ Missisipi. _See the Pref. and what follows._]
The Fifth, we set Sail and held on our Course _W. S. W._ keeping along the Shore till about Six in the Evening, when we stood away to the _Southward_ and anchor’d at Night in six Fathom Water. The Sixth, we would have made ready to sail, but the Pilot perceiving, that the Sea broke astern of us, and that there were some Shoals, it was thought proper to continue at Anchor, till the Wind chang’d, and we accordingly staid there the Sixth and all the Seventh. The Eighth the Wind veering about, we stood out a little to Sea, to avoid those Shoals, which are very dangerous, and anchor’d again a League from thence. Upon Advice, that the Bark _la Belle_ had discover’d a small Island, which appear’d between the two Points of a Bay, Monsieur _de la Sale_ sent a Man up to the round Top, from whence both the one and the other were plainly to be seen, and according to the Sea Charts we had with us, that was suppos’d to be the Bay of the _Holy Ghost_.
The Ninth, Monsieur _de la Sale_, sent to view those Shoals. Those who went reported there was a sort of Bank, which runs along the Coast; that they had been in one Fathom Water and discover’d the little Island beforemention’d, and as for the Sand Bank there is no such thing mark’d down in the Charts. Monsieur _de la Sale_ having examin’d the Recknings, was confirm’d in his Opinion, that we were in the Bay of _Apalache_, and caus’d us to continue the same Course.
The Tenth, he took an Observation and found 29 Degrees 23 Minutes North Latitude. The eleventh, we were becalm’d, and Monsieur _de la Sale_ resolv’d to go ashore, to endeavour to discover what he was looking for; but as we were making ready, the Pilot began to mutter because five or six of us were going with Monsieur _de la Sale_, who too lightly alter’d his Design, to avoid giving Offence to brutish People. In that Particular he committed an irretrieveable Error; for it is the Opinion of Judicious Men, who, as well as I, saw the rest of that Voyage, that the Mouth of one of the Branches of the _Missisipi_ River, and the same whose Latitude Monsieur _de la Sale_ had taken, when he travell’d to it from _Canada_, was not far from that Place, and that we must of Necessity be near the Bay of the _Holy Ghost_.[49]
[Sidenote: _Monsieur_ de la Sale’s _Mistake_.]
It was Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Design to find that Bay, and having found it, he had resolv’d to have set ashore about thirty Men, who were to have follow’d the Coast on the Right and Left, which would infallibly have discover’d to him that fatal River, and have prevented many Misfortunes; but Heaven refus’d him that Success, and even made him regardless of an Affair of such Consequence, since he was satisfy’d with sending thither the Pilot, with one of the Masters of the Bark _la Belle_, who return’d without having seen any Thing, because a fog happen’d to rise; only the Master of the Bark said he believ’d there was a River opposite to those Shoals, which was very likely, and yet Monsieur _de la Sale_ took no Notice of it, nor made any Account of that Report.
The Twelfth, the Wind being come about we weigh’d and directed our Course _S. W._ to get further from the Land. By an Observation found 25[50] Degrees 50 Minutes North Latitude, and the Wind shifting, and the Currents, which set from the Seaward driving us ashore, it was found convenient to anchor in four or five Fathom Water, where we spent all the Night.
The Thirteenth, we perceiv’d our Water began to fall short, and therefore it was requisite to go ashore to fill some Casks. Monsieur _de la Sale_ propos’d it to me to go and see it perform’d, which I accepted of, with six of our Gentlemen who offer’d their Service. We went into the Boat, with our Arms, the Boat belonging to the Bark _la Belle_ follow’d ours, with five or six Men, and we all made directly for the Land.
We were very near the Shoar, when we discover’d a number of naked Men marching along the Banks, whom we suppos’d to be native Savages. We drew within two Musket Shots of the Land, and the Shore being flat, the Wind setting from the Offing, and the Sea running high, dropt our Anchors, for Fear of staving our Boats.[51]
[Sidenote: _Savages came to the Boat._]
When the Savages perceiv’d we had stopp’d, they made Signs to us with Skins, to go to them, shew’d us their Bows, which they laid down upon the Ground, and drew near to the Edge of the Shore; but because we could not get Ashore, and still they continued their Signals, I put my Handkerchief on the End of my Firelock, after the Manner of a Flag, and made Signs to them to come to us. They were some Time considering of it, and at last some of them ran into the Water up to their Shoulders, till perceiving that the Waves overwhelm’d them, they went out again, fetch’d a large Piece of Timber, which they threw into the Sea, plac’d themselves along both Sides of it, holding fast to it with one Arm, and swimming with the other; and in that Manner they drew near to our Boat.
[Sidenote: _Carryed Aboard._]
Being in Hopes that Monsr. _de la Sale_, might get some Information from those Savages, we made no Difficulty of taking them into our Boat, one after another, on each Side, to the Number of five, and then made Signs to the rest to go to the other Boat, which they did, and we carry’d them on Board.
Monsieur _de la Sale_ was very well pleas’d to see them, imagining they might give him some Account of the River he sought after; but to no Purpose, for he spoke to them in several of the Languages of the Savages, which he knew, and made many Signs to them, but still they understood not what he meant, or if they did comprehend any thing, they made Signs, that they knew nothing of what he ask’d; so that having made them smoak and eat, we shewed them our Arms and the Ship, and when they saw at one End of it some Sheep, Swine, Hens and Turkeys, and the Hide of a Cow we had kill’d, they made Signs that they had of all those Sorts of Creatures among them.
[Sidenote: _Return Ashore with Gifts._]
We gave them some Knives and Strings of Beads, after which, they were dismiss’d, and the Waves hindring us from coming too near the Shore, they were oblig’d to leap into the Water, after we had made fast about their Necks, or to the Tuft of Hair they have on the Top of the Head, the Knives and other small Presents Monsieur _de la Sale_ had given them.
They went and join’d the others who expected them, and were making Signs to us to go to them; but not being able to make the Shore, we stood off again and return’d to our Ship. It is to be observed, that when we were carrying them back, they made some Signs to us, by which we conceiv’d they would signify to us that there was a great River that Way we were pass’d, and that it occasion’d the Shoals we had seen.
The Wind changing, the same Day, we weigh’d Anchor and stood to the Southward, to get into the Offing, till the 14th in the Morning, when we were becalm’d. At Noon, we were in 28 Degrees 51 Minutes of North Latitude. The Wind freshned, and in the Evening we held on our Course, but only for a short Time, because the Wind setting us towards the Shore, we were obliged to anchor again, whereupon Monsieur _de la Sale_ again resolved to send Ashore, and the same Persons imbark’d in the same Boats to that effect.
[Sidenote: _Goats and Bullocks._]
We met with the same Obstacles, that had hinder’d us the Day before, that is, the High-Sea, which would not permit us to come near the Shore, and were obliged to drop Anchor in fourteen Foot Water.[52] The Sight of Abundance of Goats and Bullocks, differing in Shape, from ours, and running along the Coast, heighten’d our Earnestness to be Ashore. We therefore sounded to see whether we might get to Land by Stripping, and found we were on a Flat, which had four Foot Water, but that beyond it there was a deep Channel. Whilst we were consulting what to do, a Storm arose, which oblig’d Monsieur _de la Sale_ to fire a Gun for us to return Aboard, which we did against our Inclination.
Monsieur _de la Sale_ was pleas’d with the Report we made him, and by it, several were encouraged to go Ashore to hunt, that we might have some fresh Meat. We spent all that Night, till the next Morning, in Hopes of returning soon to that Place; but the Wind changing, forc’d us to weigh and sail till the Evening, when we drop’d Anchor in six Fathom Water. The Land which we never departed from very far, appear’d to us very pleasant, and having lain there till the 16th, that Morning we sail’d _W. S. W._ We weather’d a Point, keeping a large Offing, because of the Sea’s beating upon it, and stood to the Southward. At Noon, we were in 28 Degrees 20 Minutes of North Latitude, and consequently found the Latitude declin’d, by which we were sensible, that the Coast tendered to the Southward. At Night we anchor’d in six Fathom Water.
The 17th, the Wind continuing the same, we held on our Course _S. W._ and having about Ten discover’d a Sort of River, Monsieur _de la Sale_ caus’d Ten of us to go into a Boat, to take a View of that Coast, and see whether there was not some Place to land. He order’d me, in Case we found any convenient Place, to give him Notice either by Fire or Smoke.
[Sidenote: _Second landing._]
We set out, and found the Shoals obstructed our Descent. One of our Men went naked into the Water to sound that Sand Bank, which lay between us and the Land; and having shewn us a Place where we might Pass, we, with much Difficulty, forc’d our Boat into the Channel, and six or seven of us landed, after ordering the Boat to go up into that which had appeared to us to be a River, to see whether any fresh Water could be found.
As soon as we were landed, I made a Smoke to give Notice to Monsieur _de la Sale_, and then we advanc’d both Ways, without straggling too far, that we might be ready to receive Monsr. _de la Sale_, who was to come, as he did, soon after, but finding the Surges run high, he return’d, and our Boat finding no fresh Water, came back and anchor’d to wait for us.
We walked about every Way, and found a dry Soil, tho’ it seem’d to be overflow’d at some Times; great Lakes of salt Water, little Grass, the Track of Goats, on the Sand, and saw Herds of them, but could not come near them, however we kill’d some Ducks and Bustards. In the Evening, as we were returning, we miss’d an English Seaman, fir’d several Shots to give him Notice, searched all about, waited till after Sunset, and at last hearing no Tidings of him, we went into the Boat to return Aboard.
I gave Monsieur _de la Sale_ an Account of what we had seen, which would have pleas’d him, had the River we discover’d, afforded fresh Water: He was also uneasy for the lost Man; but about Midnight we saw a Fire Ashore, in the Place we came from, which we suppos’d to be made by our Man, and the Boat went for him as soon as it was day on the 18th.
After that, we made several Trips, still steering towards the _S. W._ and then ensued a Calm, which oblig’d us to come to an Anchor. Want of Water made us think of returning towards the River, where we had been the Day before. Monsr. _de la Sale_ resolved to set a considerable Number of Men Ashore, with sufficient Ammunition, and to go with them himself, to discover and take Cognizance of that Country, and order’d me to follow him. Accordingly we sail’d back, and came to an Anchor in the same Place.
All things necessary for that end being order’d on the 19th, Part of the Men were put into a Boat;[53] but a very thick Fog rising, and taking away the Sight of Land, the Compass was made use of, and the fog dispersing as we drew near the Land, we perceiv’d a Ship making directly towards us, and that it was the _Joly_, where Monsr. _de Beaujeu_ commanded, which rejoic’d us, but our Satisfaction was not lasting, and it will appear by the Sequel, that it were to have been wished, that Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ had not joyn’d us again, but that he had rather gone away for _France_, without ever seeing of us.
His Arrival disconcerted the Execution of our Enterprize. Monsr. _de la Sale_, who was already on his Way, and those who were gone before him, return’d Aboard, and some Hours after, Monsr. _de Beaujeu_ sent his Lieutenant, Monsr. _de Aire_, attended by several Persons, as well Clergymen as others, among whom was the Sieur _Gabaret_, second Pilot of the _Joly_.
[Sidenote: _Commanders at Variance._]
Monsieur _d’ Aire_ complain’d grievously to Monsieur _de la Sale_, in the Name of Monsr. _de Beaujeu_, for that said he, we had left him designedly; which was not true, for as I have said, the _Joly_ lay at Anchor A-head of us, when we were separated from her; we fired a Gun to give her Notice of our Departure, as had been concerted, and Monsr. _de Beaujeu_ answer’d it; besides that, if we had intended to separate from him, we should not have always held our Course in Sight of Land, as we had done, and that had Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ held the same Course, as had been agreed, he had not been separated from us.
There were afterwards several Disputes between the Captains and the Pilots, as well Aboard Monsieur _de la Sale_, as Aboard Monsieur _de Beaujeu_, when those Gentlemen return’d, about settling exactly the Place we were in, and the Course we were to steer; some positively affirming we were farther than we imagin’d, and that the Currents had carry’d us away; and others, that we were near the _Magdalen_ River.
[Sidenote: _They pass the Mouth of the_ Missisipi.]
The former of those Notions prevail’d, whence, upon Reflection, Monsieur _de la Sale_ concluded, that he must be past his River, which was but too true; for that River emptying it self in the Sea by two Channels, it follow’d that one of the Mouths fell about the Shoals we had observ’d the sixth of the Month; and the rather because those Shoals were very near the Latitude that Monsieur _de la Sale_ had observ’d, when he came by the way of _Canada_ to discover the Mouth of that River, as he told me several Times.
This Consideration prevail’d with Monsieur _de la Sale_ to propose his Design of returning towards those Shoals. He gave his Reasons for so doing and exposed his Doubts; but his ill Fortune made him not be regarded. Our Passage had taken up more Time than had been expected, by Reason of the Calms; there was a considerable Number of Men aboard the _Joly_, and Provisions grew short, insomuch that they said it would not hold out to return, if our Departure were delay’d. For this Reason Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ demanded Provisions of Monsieur _de la Sale_; but he asking enough for a long Time, Monsieur _de la Sale_ answer’d, he could only give him enough for a Fortnight, which was more Time than was requisite to reach the Place he intended to return to; and that besides he could not give him more Provisions, without rummaging all the Stores to the Bottom of the Hold, which would endanger his being cast away. Thus nothing was concluded, and Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ return’d to his own Ship.
[Sidenote: _Third Landing._]
In the mean Time, Want of Water began to pinch us, and Monsieur _de la Sale_ resolv’d to send to look for some about the next River. Accordingly he order’d the two Boats that had been made ready the Day before, to go off. He was aboard one of them himself, and directed me to follow him. Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ also commanded his Boat to go for Wood. By the Way we met the said Sieur _de Beaujeu_ in his Yaul, returning from Land, with the Sieur _Minet_, an Ingenier, who told us, they had been in a Sort of salt Pool, two or three Leagues from the Place where the Ships were at Anchor, we held on our Way and landed.
One of our Boats, which was gone ahead of us, had been a League and a half up the River, without finding any fresh Water in its Channel; but some Men wandering about to the right and left, had met with divers Rivulets[54] of very good Water, wherewith many Casks were fill’d.
We lay ashore, and our Hunters having that Day kill’d good Store of Ducks, Bustards and Teal, and the next Day two Goats, Monsieur _de la Sale_ sent Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ Part. We feasted upon the rest, and that good Sport put several Gentlemen that were then aboard Monsieur _de Beaujeu_, among whom were Monsieur _du Hamel_, the Ensign and the King’s Clerk, upon coming ashore to partake of the Diversion; but they took much Pains and were not successful in their Sport.
In the mean Time many Casks were fill’d with Water, as well for our Ship as for Monsieur _de Beaujeu’s_. Some Days after Monsieur _d’ Aire_ the Lieutenant, came ashore to confer with Monsieur _de la Sale_, and to know how he would manage about the Provisions; but both of them persisting in their first Proposals and Monsieur _de la Sale_ perceiving that Monsieur _de Beaujeu_ would not be satisfied with Provisions for 15 Days, which he thought sufficient to go to the Place where he expected to find one of the Branches of the _Missisipi_, which he with good Reason believ’d to be about the Shoals, I have before spoken of, nothing was concluded as to that Affair. Monsieur _d’ Aire_ return’d to his Captain, and Monsieur _de la Sale_ resolv’d to land his Men; which could not be done for some Days, because of the foul Weather; but in the mean Time we kill’d much Game.
During this little Interval, Monsieur _de la Sale_ being impatient to get some Intelligence of what he sought after, resolv’d to go himself upon Discovery, and to seek out some more useful and commodious River than that where they were. To this Purpose he took five or six of us along with him. We set out one Morning in so thick a Fog, that the hindmost could not perceive the Track of the foremost, so that we lost Monsieur _de la Sale_ for some Time.
[Sidenote: _Account of the Country._]
We travel’d till about three in the Afternoon, finding the Country for the most Part Sandy, little Grass, no fresh Water, unless in some Sloughs,[55] the Track of abundance of wild Goats, Lakes full of Ducks, Teals, Water-Hens, and having taken much Pains return’d without Success.