Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7
Part 17
Nevertheless, Adultery is not reckon’d any great Crime among them, and there are Women who make no Secret of having had to do with _French_ Men. Yet are they not sufficiently addicted to that Vice to offer themselves, and they never fall, unless they are sued to, when, they are none of the most difficult in the World to be prevail’d on. The rest I leave to those who have liv’d longer there than I.
[Sidenote: _How the Travellers liv’d._]
We continu’d some Time in Fort _Lewis_, without receiving any News. Our Business was, after having heard Mass, which we had the good Fortune to do every Day, to divert our selves the best we could. The _Indian_ Women daily brought in something fresh, we wanted not for Water Melons, Bread made of _Indian_ Corn, bak’d in the Embers, and other such Things, and we rewarded them with little Presents in Return.
[Sidenote: _M._ Tonty _comes to Fort_ Lewis.]
[Sidenote: _War with the_ Iroquois.]
On the 27th of _October_, of the same Year, Monsieur _Tonty_ return’d from the War with the _Iroquois_.[118] Our Embraces and the Relation of our Adventures were again repeated; but still concealing from him, the Death of Monsieur _de la Sale_. He told us all the Particulars of that war, and said, That the _Iroquois_ having got Intelligence of the March of the _French_ Forces and their Allies, had all come out of their Villages and laid themselves in Ambush by the Way; but that having made a sudden and general Discharge upon our Men, with their usual Cries, yet without much Harm done, they had been repuls’d with Loss, took their Flight, and by the Way burnt all their own Villages. That Monsieur _d’Hennonville_[119] chief Governor of _New France_, had caus’d the Army to march, to burn the rest of their Villages, set Fire to their Country and Corn, but would not proceed any farther. That afterwards he had made himself Master of several Canoes belonging to the _English_, most of them laden with Brandy, which had been plunder’d; that the _English_ had been sent Prisoners to _Montreal_, they being come to make some Attempt upon the _Islinois_.
[Sidenote: _Dec. 1687_]
We continued after this Manner, till the Month of _December_, when two Men arrived, from _Montreal_. They came to give Notice to Monsr. _Tonty_, that three Canoes, laden with Merchandize, Powder, Ball and other Things, were arriv’d at _Chicagou_, that there being two little Water in the River, and what there was being frozen, they could come down no lower; so that it being requisite to send Men to fetch those Things, Monsr. _Tonty_ desir’d the Chief of the _Chahouanous_ to furnish him with People. That Chief accordingly provided forty, as well Men as Women, who set out with some _French_ Men. The Honesty of the _Chahouanous_ was the Reason of preferring them before the _Islinois_, who are naturally Knaves.
[Sidenote: _Feb. 1688_]
That Ammunition and the Merchandize were soon brought, and very seasonably, the Fort being then in Want. We stay’d there till the End of _February_, 1688, at which Time we fix’d our Resolution to depart, tho’ we had no News from _Canada_, as we expected. We found there were some Canoes ready to undertake that Voyage, and we laid hold of that Opportunity to convoy each other to the _Micilimaquinay_, where we hop’d to meet some News from _Canada_.
[Sidenote: _Mar. 1688_]
Monsieur _Cavelier_ the Priest, had taken Care, before the Death of M. _de la Sale_, his Brother, to get of him a Letter of Credit, to receive either a Sum of Money or Furs in the Country of the _Islinois_. He tender’d that Letter to M. _Tonty_, who believing M. _de la Sale_ was still alive, made no Difficulty of giving him to the Value of about 4000 Livres in Furs, Castors and Otter Skins, a Canoe and other Effects, for which, the said Monsr. _Cavelier_ gave him his Note,[120] and we prepar’d for our Journey.
I have before observed, that there was a _Jesuit_, whose name was _Dalouez_[121] at Fort _Lewis_, and who had been very much surpriz’d to hear that Monsr. _de la Sale_ was to come in a short Time, being under great Apprehensions on Account of a Conspiracy intended to have been carry’d on, against Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Interest. That Father perceiving our Departure was fix’d, mov’d first, and went away foremost, to return to _Micilimaquinay_;[122] so that they were left without a Priest at Fort _Lewis_, which was a great Trouble to us, because we were the Occasion of it, and therefore those, who were to remain in the Fort, anticipated the Time, and made their _Easter_, taking the Advantage of the Presence of F. _Anastasius_ and M. _Cavelier_.
[Sidenote: _The Travel continued._]
At length, we set out the 21st of _March_, from Fort _Lewis_. The Sieur _Boisrondet_, who was desirous to return to _France_, join’d us, we imbark’d on the River, which was then become navigable, and before we had advanc’d five Leagues, met with a rapid Stream, which oblig’d us to go Ashore, and then again into the Water, to draw along our Canoe. I had the Misfortune to hurt one of my Feet against a Rock that lay under Water, which troubled me very much for a long Time; and we being under a Necessity of going often into the Water, I suffer’d extreamly, and more than I had done since our Departure from the Gulph of _Mexico_.
We arriv’d at _Chicagou_ the 29th of _March_, and our first Care was to go seek what we had conceal’d at our former Voyage, having, as was there said, bury’d our Luggage and Provisions. We found it had been open’d, and some Furs and Linen taken away, almost all which belong’d to me. This had been done by a _French_ Man, whom M. _Tonty_ had sent from the Fort, during the Winter Season, to know whether there were any Canoes at _Chicagou_, and whom he had directed to see whether any Body had medled with what we had conceal’d, and he made Use of that Advice to rob us.
[Sidenote: _Sweet Water from a Tree._]
The bad Weather oblig’d us to stay in that Place, till _April_. That Time of Rest was advantageous for the Healing my Foot; and there being but very little Game in that Place, we had Nothing but our Meal or _Indian_ Wheat to feed on; yet we discover’d a Kind of _Manna_,[123] which was a great Help to us. It was a Sort of Trees, resembling our Maple, in which we made Incisions, whence flow’d a sweet Liquor, and in it we boil’d our _Indian_ Wheat, which made it delicious, sweet and of a very agreeable Relish.
There being no Sugar-Canes in that Country, those Trees supply’d that Liquor, which being boil’d up and evaporated, turn’d into a Kind of Sugar somewhat brownish, but very good. In the Woods we found a Sort of Garlick, not so strong as ours, and small Onions very like ours in Taste, and some Charvel[124] of the same Relish as that we have, but different in the Leaf.
[Sidenote: Quinetanan _River_.]
The Weather being somewhat mended, we imbark’d again and enter’d upon the Lake on the 8th of _April_, keeping to the North Side to shun the _Iroquois_. We had some Storms also, and saw swelling Waves like those of the Sea; but arriv’d safe the 15th at a River call’d _Quinetanan_, near a Village whence, the Inhabitants depart during the Winter Season, to go a Hunting, and reside there all the Summer.
The Sport is not there as in those Countries from whence we came; but on the Contrary, very poor, and we found Nothing but some very lean Wild Goats, and even those very rarely, because the Wolves, which are very numerous there, make great Havock of them, taking and devouring great Numbers after this Manner.
[Sidenote: _Apr. 1688_]
[Sidenote: _How Wolves catch Goats._]
When the Wolves have discover’d a Herd of Wild Goats, they rouse and set them a running. The Wild Goats never fail to take to the first Lake they meet with. The hunting Wolves, who are used to that, guard the Banks carefully, moving along the Edges of them. The poor Goats being pierc’d by the Cold of the Lake, grow weary and so get out, or else the River swelling forces them out with its Waves, quite benumm’d, so that they are easily taken by their Enemies, who devour them. We frequently saw those Wolves watching along the Side of the Lake, and kept off to avoid frightning them, to the End the Wild Goats might not quit their Sanctuary, that we might catch some of them, as it sometimes fell out.
[Sidenote: Poutouatanni _Nation_.]
The 28th, we arriv’d among the _Poutouatannis_, which is half Way to _Micilimaquinay_, where we purchas’d some _Indian_ Corn for the rest of our Voyage. We left there on the last of the month, and we arrived on the 10th of May at the said place of _Michilimackinac_. We found no News there from _Montreal_, and were forc’d to stay some Time to wait an Opportunity to go down the River; No Man daring to venture, because of the War with the _Iroquois_.
[Sidenote: Hurons _and_ Outahouacs _Nations_.]
[Sidenote: _May 1688_]
There are some _French_ Men in that Place, and four _Jesuits_, who have a House well built with Timber, inclosed with Stakes and Palisades. There are also some _Hurons_ and _Outahouacs_, two Neighbouring Nations, whom those Fathers take Care to instruct, not without very much Trouble, those People being downright Libertines, and there are very often none but a few Women in their Churches. Those Fathers have each of them the Charge of instructing a Nation, and to that Effect have translated the Prayers into the Language peculiar to each of them, as also all other Things relating to the Catholick Faith and Religion.
[Sidenote: _June 1688_]
They offer’d Father _Anastasius_ and Monsieur _Cavelier_ a Room, which they accepted of, and we took up our Lodging in a little Hovel some Travellers had made. There we continued the rest of _May_ and Part of _June_, till after the Feast of _Whitsontide_. The Natives of the Country about, till the Land and sow _Indian_ Corn, Melons and Gourds, but they do not thrive so well as in the Country we came from. However they live on them, and besides they have Fish they catch in the Lake, for Flesh is very scarce among them.
On the 4th of _June_, there arriv’d four Canoes, commanded by Monsieur _de Porneuf_, coming from _Montreal_, and bringing News from the Marques _d’Hennonville_, and Orders to send to the Settlements which were towards the Lake _des Puans_ and others higher up, towards the Source of the River _Colbert_, to know the Posture and Condition of Affairs. We prepar’d to be gone with the two Canoes. Monsieur _Cavelier_ bought another, to carry our Baggage, and left Part of his Furs with a Merchant, who gave him a Note to receive Money at _Montreal_. I did the same with those few Furs I had, the rest of them having been left at _Micilimaquinay_.
[Sidenote: Islinois _and_ Hurons.]
We took Leave of the _Jesuits_, and set out in four Canoes, _viz._ two belonging to Monsieur _de Porneuf_, and two to Monsieur _Cavelier_, one of which had been brought from Fort _Lewis_, and the other bought, as I have just now said, we being twenty-nine of us in those four Canoes. We sail’d on till the 24th, when Monsieur _de Porneuf_ left us to go to St. _Mary’s_ Fall, to carry the Orders given him. The 25th, we got out of the Lake of the _Islinois_, to enter that of the _Hurons_, on the Banks whereof stands the Village, call’d _Tessalon_, where Monsieur _de Porneuf_ came again to us, the 27th, with a Canoe of the Natives, and with him we held on our Way.
[Sidenote: _July 1688_]
[Sidenote: French _River_.]
We proceeded to _Chebonany_ the 30th of _June_, and the 3d of _July_, enter’d the _French_ River, where we were forc’d several Times to carry our Canoes to avoid the Falls and the rapid Streams, observing as we went a barren and dry Country, full of Rocks, on which there grow Cedars and Fir Trees, which take Root in the Clefts of those Rocks.
[Sidenote: _Aug. 1688_]
[Sidenote: Nipicingue _Lake_.]
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Montreal.]
The 5th, we enter’d upon the little Lake of _Nipicingue_, adjoining to a Nation of that Name. We got out of it again the 7th, and enter’d upon the great River, where, after having pass’d the great Fall, we arriv’d the 13th, at the Point of the Island of _Montreal_. We landed at a Village call’d _la Chine_, which had belong’d to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_. Monsr. _Cavelier_ set out the 14th, for _Montreal_, where we came to him the 17th.
At _Montreal_ we found the Marques _d’ Hennonville_, Monsieur _de Noroy_ the Intendant and other Gentlemen, to whom we gave an Account of our long and painful Travels, with the Particulars of what we had seen, which they listned to with Satisfaction, but without mentioning Monsieur _de la Sale’s_ Death. We told them the Occasion of our going over into _France_, and they approv’d of it, being of Opinion with us, that we ought to hasten our Departure as much as possible.
We made us some Cloaths, whereof we stood in Need. The Sieur _Teissier_, who came along with us, and was of the Reform’d Religion, knowing the Exercise of it was forbid in _France_, abjur’d it in the great Church of _Montreal_.
[Sidenote: _Arrival at_ Quebec.]
The 27th, we went aboard a Bark to go down the River to _Quebec_, where we arriv’d the 29th, Father _Anastasius_ carry’d us to the Monastery of the Fathers of his Order, seated half a League from the Town, on a little River, where we were most kindly receiv’d by the Father Guardian and the other Religious Men, who express’d much Joy to see us, and we still more for being in a Place of Safety, after so many Perils and Toils, for which we return’d our humble Thanks to Almighty God, our Protector.
We chose rather to take up our Lodging there than in the Town, to avoid the Visits and troublesome Questions every one would be putting to us with much Importunity, which we must have been oblig’d to bear patiently. Monsieur _Cavelier_ and his Nephew, whom we had left at _Montreal_, arriv’d some Days after us, and were lodg’d in the Seminary.
We stay’d in that Monastery till the 21st of _August_, when we imbark’d on a large Boat, eighteen Persons of us, to go down the River of St. _Lawrence_, a Board a Ship, that was taking in and fishing of Cod, in order to reach _France_. We went a Board it the 30th of the same Month, and after hearing Mass, made ready and sail’d for our dear Country, arriv’d safe at _Rochelle_ on _Saturday_ the 9th of _October_ 1688, whence, setting out by Land, _Friday_ the 15th, the same Providence, which had protected and conducted us, brought us without any Misfortune to _Roan_, the 17th of _October_, the same Year.
_The End of the_ JOURNAL.[125]
_The Remainder of the_ LETTER, _written by him who revis’d this_ JOURNAL, _the other Part whereof is at the Beginning of it, this being the_ Sequel _to the said_ JOURNAL.
[Sidenote: Note, _That these have writ of those Parts, but none of this particular Voyage_.]
Three several Authors have given an Account of this Voyage; _First_, Father _le Clerk_, upon the Relations he had from the Fathers _Zenobius_ and _Anastasius_, Recolets, as he was himself and both of them Eye-Witnesses: _Secondly_, The Chevalier _Tonty_, who was also a Witness to a considerable Part of those Adventures: And, _Lastly_, Father _Hennepin_, a _Flemming_, of the same Order of the Recolets, has done it more largely; he seems to be well acquainted with the Country, and had a Share in great Discoveries; but the Truth of his Relations is much controverted. It was he who went to the Northward, and towards the Source of the _Missisipi_, which he calls _Mechasipi_, and who printed, at _Paris_, an Account of the Country about the River, giving it the Name of _Louisiana_. He ought to have stopp’d there, and not to have gone, as he did, into _Holland_, to set forth another Edition, very much enlarg’d, and perhaps not so true, which he dedicated to _William_ the Third, Prince of _Orange_, and afterwards King of _Great Britain_. An Action for a Religious Man no less ridiculous than extravagant, not to give it a worse Name; for after many great and tedious Encomiums given that Protestant Prince, he exhorts and conjures him to turn his Thoughts towards those vast Countries, as yet unknown, to conquer them and send Colonies thither, to make known to those Savage Nations the true God and his Worship, and to preach the Gospel. That good Religious Man, whom many have falsly thought, on Account of that Extravagancy, to have renounc’d his Religion, did not consider what he said, and consequently has scandaliz’d the Catholicks, and furnish’d the _Hugonots_ with Matter of Laughter; for it is likely, that they being Enemies to the _Roman_ Church, would employ Recolets to go preach up _Popery_, as they call it in _Canada_? Or would they introduce any other Religion than their own? Can Father _Hennepin_ be excuseable in this Point?
[Sidenote: M. de la Sale’s _Fort taken by the_ Spaniards.]
[Sidenote: M. de Hiberville’s _Expedition for the_ Missisipi.]
In fine it appears, by all that has been writ by those several Persons concerning that Enterprize, that the Murder committed on the Person of Monsieur _de la Sale_ was the Occasion of its miscarrying; but that which obstructed the making of some Provision in that Case was, the said Murders being conceal’d for the Space of two Years, and that the _Spaniards_ of _Mexico_ having been inform’d of all the Affair, sent Men, who carry’d off the weak Garrison Monsieur _de la Sale_ had left in the Fort built by him, near the Place of his Landing, before he penetrated into the Country, to find out the _Missisipi_. They also entirely raz’d that Fort, so that Seven or Eight Years elaps’d, till Monsieur _de Hiberville_, a Gentleman of _Canada_, and a Person of Capacity and Courage, famous for his notable Expeditions to _Hudson_’s Bay and other Parts, resolv’d to reassume and revive that Project. He came over into _France_ upon that Design, and made an Armament about the Year 1698, set out and sail’d to the Gulf of _Mexico_. Being an able Seaman, he search’d along the Coast so narrowly, that he found the Mouth of that fatal _Missisipi_ and built a Fort on it, leaving Men there, with a good Quantity of Ammunition and Provisions, and return’d to _France_, intending to go back with a Reinforcement, as he did, and having penetrated far into the Country, discover’d several Savage Nations, and join’d Friendship and Alliance with them, as also built another Fort, which he left well stor’d with Men and Necessaries, return’d into _France_; but attempting a third Voyage, he dy’d by the Way, and thus, for want of Relief and Support, that noble Enterprize miscarry’d again.
[Sidenote: M. Crozat _only to plant Colonies and Trade in_ Louisiana.]
But God has now provided for it, and it is the Concern of Heaven, for if _France_ is interested on Account of the Temporal Advantages it expects, the Church is so in like Manner, for the Conversion of the _Indians_ it hopes will follow. Accordingly, Providence has taken the Affair in Hand, having rais’d the Man, who is the fittest to revive and support so important a Project. This is _Monsieur Crozat_, Secretary to the King, a Man of singular Worth, very Intelligent, Well-meaning, and prodigiously Rich, who without going out of his Closet, has been the Occasion of many notable Voyages by Sea, and all of them successful. To him, his Majesty, by his Letters Patent, bearing Date the _14th of Septemb. 1712_, has granted the sole Power to trade and settle Colonies in the Countries describ’d in this Journal, and which are known to us by the Name of _Louisiana_ and the River _Missisipi_, from hence forward to be call’d the River of St. _Lewis_. The Grant is made to him for 15 Years, under several Conditions mention’d in the said Letters Patent, which have been made publick.
[Sidenote: _A Black bred in_ France _turns to his Native Customs_.]
And whereas such a Grant cannot subsist without Blacks, he is also allow’d to send a Ship to _Guinea_ to purchase them. They may perhaps find there the famous Black _Aniaga_, Brother to a King of _Guinea_, whom Captain _Delbee_ brought over into _France_, above Thirty Years ago. The King was pleas’d to have him Educated, Instructed and Baptiz’d, the _Dauphin_[126] being his Godfather; then put him into his Troop of Musquetiers, and afterwards made him a Captain in his own Regiment, where he serv’d Honourably. Being desirous to see his own Country again, where he promis’d to promote the _French_ Trade, and the settling of Missioners, his Majesty loaded him with Presents, and order’d a Ship to carry him back to _Guinea_; but as soon as he was there, he no longer remember’d he had been baptiz’d, and turn’d again as perfect a Black, as he had been before. A Friend of mine, who was an Officer aboard a Ship, and hapned to be on that Coast in the Year 1708, had two or three Interviews with that Black, who came aboard him. He was a great Man in that Country, for his Brother was King. He express’d much Gratitude for the Kindness that had been shewn him in _France_, and was extraordinary Courteous, and made great Offers to those aboard the Ship, and to all such of the Nation as would go into _Guinea_.
This Navigation to _Louisiana_ will farther procure us a free Resort to the two famous Ports of the Gulf of _Mexico_, _viz._ The _Havana_ and _Veracruz_, where Strangers did not use to be admitted, and which we knew only by their Names and their Situation in our Maps.
[Sidenote: Veracruz _in New_ Spain.]
The latter of those Towns is the Port of _New Spain_, at the Bottom of the Bay or Gulf, in 18 Degrees of _North_ Latitude, Seated in a Sandy Plain, encompass’d with Mountains; beyond which there are Woods and Meadows, well Stock’d with Cattle and wild Fowl: the flesh whereof is stringy and tasteless. The Air is very Hot, and not Healthy, when any Winds blow, except the _North_, which rises commonly once in Eight or Fifteen Days, and holds for the Space of Twenty Four Hours, blowing so hard, that there is no going ashore from the Ships, and then the Cold is very piercing. When the Weather is clear there plainly appear, on the Road to _Mexico_, two Mountains rising above the Clouds, and forty Leagues distant, all cover’d with Snow. The Streets of _Veracruz_ are streight as a Line; the Houses are handsome and regular; the Fortifications next the Land inconsiderable, but the Front of the Town next the Sea forms a Semicircle, with a little Fort at each End. Directly before that Front, a Quarter of a League out at Sea, there stands, on a Spot of Ground, inaccessible, by Reason of the Breaking of the Sea, a strong Citadel, well built and furnished with all Necessaries, a good Garrison and double Batteries of two hundred Pieces of brass Cannon. Ships cannot anchor any where, but between that Citadel and the Town; besides that, it requires several Precautions, because it is difficult coming to an Anchor.