Part 16

The Second, we made ready to be going. The _Indian_ given by the first Village for our Guide, would not go any farther. A Man, said to be an Hermaphrodite, offer’d to supply his Place, saying, he was willing to go to the _Islinois_. We took Leave of the Sieur _Couture_, to whom Monsr. _Cavelier_ made an Exhortation, encouraging him to persevere and have Patience, in Hopes of the Relief we wou’d send him, and so we imbark’d on the _Missisipi_ in a Canoe, being Nine in Number, that is, five of us, and the four _Indians_ that were our Guides. We were oblig’d to cross that River very often, and no less frequently to carry our Canoe and Goods, as well on Account of the Rapidity of the River, and to find it slacker on the one or the other Side of it, which was very troublesome to our Guides, as because of the little islands we met with, which are form’d by the impetuous beating of the Water upon the Banks, that oppose its Course, where the Channels happen not to lie strait; there it washes away the Earth and bears down great Trees, which in Process of Time form little Islands, that divide the Channel. At Night we incamp’d in one of those small Islands, for our greater Safety, for we were then come into an Enemy’s Nation, call’d _Machigamea_, which put our _Indians_ into great Frights.

It is certain our Toil was very great, for we were oblig’d to row in the Canoe, to help our _Indians_ to stem the Current of the River, because we were going up, and it was very strong and rapid; we were often necessitated to land, and sometimes to travel over miry Lands, where we sunk up half way the Leg; other Times over burning Sands, which scorch’d our Feet, having no Shoes, or else over Splinters of Wood, which ran into the Soles of our Feet, and when we were come to the resting Place, we were to provide Fuel to dress our Meat, and provide all Things for our _Indians_, who would not have done so much as go fetch a Cup of Water, tho’ we were on the Bank of the River, and yet we were happy enough in having them.

We proceeded on, continually undergoing the same Toil, till the Seventh, when, we saw the first Bullock, we had met on our Way, since our coming among the _Accancea’s_. The _Indians_, who had a great Mind to eat Flesh, made a Sign to me, to go kill it. I pursu’d and Shot, but it did not fall, the _Indians_ ran after, kill’d, and came to tell us it must be parch’d, or dry’d, which was accordingly done. I must here take Notice of a Ceremony our _Indians_ perform’d, when they came near the Bullock, before they flead him.

[Sidenote: _Ceremony at dressing a Bullock._]

In the first Place, they adorn’d his Head with some Swans and Bustards Down, dy’d red, and put some Tabacco into his Nostrils, and between the Clefts of the Hoofs. When they had flead him, they cut out the Tongue, and put a Bit of Tabacco into its Place; then they stuck two Wooden Forks into the Ground, laid a Stick across them, on which they plac’d several Slices of the Flesh, in the Nature of an Offering. The Ceremony being ended, we parch’d or dry’d the best Parts of the Beast and proceeded on our Journey.

[Sidenote: _Banks of several Colours._]

The 9th, we found the Banks of the River very high, and the Earth of them Yellow, Red and White, and thither the Natives came to furnish themselves with it, to adorn their Bodies, on Festival Days. We held on our Way till the 14th, when we met a Herd of Bullocks, whereof we kill’d five, dry’d Part of them, and proceeded till the 18th.

[Sidenote: Houabache _River_.]

The 19th, we came to the Mouth of the River, call’d _Houabache_, said to come from the Country of the _Iroquois_, towards _New England_. That is a very fine River, its Water extraordinary clear, and the Current of it, gentle. Our _Indians_ offer’d up to it, by Way of Sacrifice, some Tabacco and Beef Steaks, which they fix’d on Forks, and left them on the Bank, to be dispos’d of as the River thought fit. We observ’d some other Superstitions among those poor People, one whereof was as follows.

[Sidenote: _Indian Fast._]

There were some certain Days, on which they Fasted, and we knew them, when as soon as they awak’d, they besmear’d their Faces and Arms, or other Parts of their Bodies, with a slimy Sort of Earth, or pounded Charcoal; for that Day they did not eat till Ten or Eleven of the Clock at Night, and before they did eat they were to wipe off that Smearing, and had Water brought them for that Purpose. The Occasion of their Fasting was, as they gave us to understand, that they might have good Success in Hunting, and kill Abundance of Bullocks.

[Sidenote: _Salt Water Spring._]

[Sidenote: _Wild Fruit._]

We held on our Way till the 25th, when the _Indians_ shew’d us a Spring of Salt Water, within a Musket Shot of us, and made us go ashore to view it. We observ’d the Ground about it was much beaten by Bullocks Feet, and it is likely they love that Salt Water. The Country about, was full of Hillocks, cover’d with Oaks and Wallnut-Trees, Abundance of Plum-Trees, almost all the Plums red and pretty good, besides great Store of other Sorts of Fruits, whose Names we know not, and among them one shap’d like a midling Pear, with Stones in it as big as large Beans. When ripe it peels like a Peach, the Taste is indifferent good, but rather of the Sweetest.

The 27th, having discover’d a Herd of Beeves, we went ashore to kill some; I shot a Heifer, which was very good Meat, we put a Board the best of it, and held on our Way till the Evening, when we encamp’d on an Island, where we observ’d an alteration in the Humour and Behaviour of our _Indians_. This put us under some Apprehension, and the more, for that he who was reckon’d an Hermaphrodite, told us, they intended to leave us, which oblig’d us to secure our Arms and double our Watch during the Night, for Fear they should forsake us.

[Sidenote: Missouris _River_.]

With that Jealousy we proceeded on our Journey the 28th and 29th, coasting along the Foot of an upright Rock, about sixty, or eighty Foot high, round which the River glides. Held on the 30th and 31st, and the first of _September_ pass’d by the Mouth of a River call’d _Missouris_, whose Water is always thick, and to which our _Indians_ did not forget to offer Sacrifice.

[Sidenote: _Figure of a pretended Monster._]

[Sidenote: _Sept. 1687_]

[Sidenote: _River of the_ Islinois.]

The 2d, we arriv’d at the Place, where the Figure is of the pretended Monster spoken of by Father _Marquet_. That Monster consists of two scurvy Figures drawn in red, on the flat Side of a Rock, about eight or ten Foot high, which wants very much of the extraordinary Height that Relation mentions. However our _Indians_ paid Homage, by offering Sacrifice to that Stone; tho’ we endeavour’d to give them to understand, that the said Rock had no Manner of Virtue, and that we worship’d something above it, pointing up to Heaven; but it was to no Purpose, and they made Signs to us, that they should die if they did not perform that Duty. We proceeded, coasting along a Chain of Mountains, and at length, on the 3d, left the _Missisipi_, to enter the River of the _Islinois_.

We found a great Alteration in that River, as well with Respect to its Course, which is very gentle, as to the Country about it, which is much more agreeable and beautiful than that about the great River, by Reason of the many fine Woods and Variety of Fruit its Banks are adorn’d with. It was a very great comfort to us, to find so much Ease in going up that River, by Reason of its gentle Stream, so that we all stay’d in the Canoe and made much more Way.

[Sidenote: Indian _dies of eating raw Suet_.]

Thus we went on till the 8th, without stopping any longer than to kill a Bullock, and one of our _Indians_, who had a craving Stomach, having eaten some of its Suet hot and raw, was taken very ill, and died of it, as I shall mention in its Place.

The 9th, we came into a Lake, about half a League over, which we cross’d, and return’d into the Channel of the River, on the Banks whereof we found several Marks of the Natives having been incamp’d there, when they came to fish and dry what they caught. The 10th, we cross’d another Lake, call’d _Primitehouy_, return’d to the River, and the 11th, saw _Indians_ before us, incamp’d on the Bank of a River, whereupon we stop’d and made ready our Arms. In the mean Time, one of them came towards us by Land, and we put on our Canoe towards him.

[Sidenote: _Meeting with_ Islinois.]

When that _Indian_ was near, he stood gazing on us, without speaking a Word, and then drawing still nearer, we gave him to understand, that we were sent by Monsieur _de la Sale_, and came from him. Then he made Signs to us, to advance towards his People, whom, he went before to acquaint with what he had said to him, so that when we were come near them they fired Several Shot to salute us, and we answer’d them with our Firelocks.

After that mutual Salutation, they came into our Canoe, to signify, they were glad to hear News of Monsieur _de la Sale_. We ask’d them, What Nation they were of; they answer’d, They were _Islinois_, of a Canton call’d _Cascasquia_. We enquir’d whether Monsieur _Tonty_ was at Fort _Lewis_; they gave us to understand, that he was not, but that he was gone to the War against the _Iroquois_. They invited us Ashore, to go with them to eat of such as they had, we thank’d them, and they brought us some Gourds and Water Melons, in Exchange for which, we gave them some parch’d Flesh.

We had not by the Way taken Notice of a Canoe, in which was a Man with two Women, who, being afraid of us, had hid themselves among the Reeds, but that man seeing us stop among his Countrymen, took Heart, came to us, and having told us, that he belong’d to a Village near Fort _Lewis_, we set out together, and one of our _Indians_ went into that Canoe, to help them to shove, so they call the Way of pushing on the Canoe with Poles instead of rowing.

[Sidenote: _Fort_ Lewis _among the_ Islinois.]

On _Sunday_, the 14th of _September_, about two in the Afternoon, we came into the Neighbourhood of Fort _Lewis_. Drawing near, we were met by some _Indians_ that were on the Bank, who having view’d us well, and understanding we came from Monsr. _de la Sale_, and that we belong’d to him, ran to the Fort to carry the News, and immediately we saw a _French_ Man come out, with a Company of _Indians_, who fir’d a Volley of several Pieces, to salute us. Then the _French_ Man drew near, and desir’d us to come Ashore, which we did, leaving only one in the Canoe, to take Care of our Baggage; for the _Islinois_ are very sharp at carrying off anything they can lay their Hands on, and consequently, nothing near so honest as the Nations we had pass’d thro’.

[Sidenote: _Arrival at Fort_ Lewis.]

We all walk’d together towards the Fort, and found three _French_ Men coming to meet us, and among them a Clerk, who had belong’d to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_, nomme Boisrondet. They immediately ask’d us, where Monsr. _de la Sale_ was, we told them, he had brought us Part of the Way, and left us at a Place about forty Leagues beyond the _Cenis_, and that he was then in good Health. All that was true enough; for Monsr. _Cavelier_ and I, who were the Persons, that then spoke, were not present at Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Death; he was in good Health when he left us, and I have told the Reasons we had for concealing his Death, till we came into _France_.

It is no less true, that Father _Anastasius_, and he they call’d _Teissier_, could have given a better Account, the one as an Eye Witness, and the other, as one of the Murderers, and they were both with us; but to avoid lying, they said Nothing. We farther told them, we had Orders to go over into _France_, to give an Account of the Discoveries made by Monsieur _de la Sale_, and to procure the sending of Succours.

[Sidenote: _Reception._]

At length, we enter’d the Fort, where we found and surpriz’d several Persons who did not expect us. All the _French_ were under Arms and made several Discharges to welcome us. Monsieur _de Belle Fontaine_ Lieutenant to Monsr. _Tonty_, was at the Head of them and complimented us. Then we were conducted to the Chappel, where we return’d Thanks to God, from the Bottom of our Hearts, for having preserv’d and conducted us in Safety; after which we had our Lodgings assigned us, Monsr. _Cavelier_ and Father _Anastasius_ had one Chamber, and we were put into the Magazine, or Warehouse. All this While, the Natives came by Intervals, to fire their Pieces, to express their Joy for our Return, and for the News we brought of Monsieur _de la Sale_, which refresh’d our Sorrow for his Misfortune; perceiving that his Presence would have settled all Things advantageously.

The Day after our Arrival, one of the _Indians_, who had conducted us, having been sick ever since he eat the raw Beef Suet, I mention’d before, died, and his Companions took away and bury’d him privately. We gave them the promis’d Reward, and the Part belonging to the Dead Man, to be deliver’d to his Relations. They stay’d some Time in the Fort, during the which, we took extraordinary Care of them, and at last they return’d to their own Homes.

As far as we could gather by half Words dropp’d there by one or other at the Fort, Something had been done there prejudicial to the Service of Monsr. _de la Sale_, and against his Authority, and therefore some dreaded his Return, but more especially a _Jesuit_ was in great Consternation. He was sick, Monsieur _Cavelier_, Father _Anastasius_ and I went to visit him. He enquired very particularly of all Points, and could not conceal his Trouble, which we would not seem to take Notice of.

[Sidenote: _Falls in the River._]

Our Design being to make the best of our way to _Canada_, in Order to set out Aboard the first _French_ Ships that should Sail for _France_, we enquired how we were to proceed, and met with several Difficulties. The Navigation on that River was very Dangerous,[117] by Reason of the Falls there are in it, which must be carefully avoided, unless a Man will run an inevitable Hazard of perishing. There were few Persons capable of managing that Affair, and the War with the _Iroquois_ made all Men afraid.

[Sidenote: _Oct. 1687_]

However the Sieur _Boisrondet_, Clerk to the late Monsr. _de la Sale_, having told us he had a Canoe, in which he design’d to go down to _Canada_, we prepared to make use of that Opportunity. Care was taken to gather Provisions for our Voyage, to get Furs to barter as we pass’d by _Micilimaquinay_. The Visits of two Chiefs of Nations, call’d _Cascasquia_ _Peroueria_ and _Cacahouanous_ discover’d by the late Monsieur _de la Sale_, did not interrupt our Affairs, and all things being ready on the 1st, we took Leave on the 18th, of those we left in the Fort. Monsieur _Cavelier_ writ a Letter for Monsieur _Tonty_, which he left there to be delivered to him, and we repair’d to the Lake to imbark.

[Sidenote: _M._ Cavelier, _&c. set out and returns again_.]

It would be needless to relate all the Troubles and Hardships we met with, in that Journey, it was painful and fruitless, for having gone to the Bank of the Lake, in very foul Weather, after waiting there eight Days, for that foul Weather to cease, and after we had imbark’d, notwithstanding the Storm, we were oblig’d to put Ashore again, to return to the Place where we had imbark’d, and there to dig a Hole in the Earth, to bury our Baggage and Provisions, to save the Trouble of carrying them back to Fort _Lewis_, whither we return’d and arrived there the 7th of _October_; where they were surpriz’d to see us come back.

Thus were we oblig’d to continue in that Fort all the rest of _Autumn_ and Part of the _Winter_, to our great Sorrow, and not so much for our own Disappointment, as for being, by that Means, obstructed from sending of Succours, as soon as we had expected, as well to the said Fort, as to those _French_ of our own Company, whom we had left on the Coast of the Bay of _Mexico_.

It was then the good Season for shooting. Those Gentlemen at the Fort had secur’d two good _Indian_ Sportsmen, who never let us want for Wild Fowl of all Sorts; besides we had good Bread, and as good Fruit, and had there been any Thing to drink besides Water, we had far’d well. The Leisure we had during our Stay there, gave me an Opportunity of making the following Remarks, as well of my own Observation, as what I learn’d of the _French_ residing there.

[Sidenote: _Description of Fort_ Lewis _and the Country about it_.]

Fort _Lewis_ is in the Country of the _Islinois_ and seated on a steep Rock, about two hundred Foot high, the River running at the Bottom of it. It is only fortified with Stakes and Palisades, and some Houses advancing to the Edge of the Rock. It has a very spacious Esplanade, or Place of Arms. The Place is naturally strong, and might be made so by Art, with little Expence. Several of the Natives live in it, in their Huts. I cannot give an Account of the Latitude it stands in, for Want of proper Instruments to take an Observation, but Nothing can be pleasanter; and it may be truly affirm’d, that the Country of the _Islinois_ enjoys all that can make it accomplish’d, not only as to Ornament, but also for its plentiful Production of all Things requisite for the Support of human Life.

[Sidenote: _Lime and Clay for Bricks, &c._]

The Plain, which is water’d by the River, is beautified by two small Hills, about half a League distant from the Fort, and those Hills are cover’d with Groves of Oaks, Walnut-Trees and other Sorts I have named elsewhere. The Fields are full of Grass, growing up very high. On the Sides of the Hills is found a gravelly Sort of Stone, very fit to make Lime for Building. There are also many Clay Pits, fit for making of Earthen Ware, Bricks and Tiles, and along the River there are Coal Pits, the Coal whereof has been try’d and found very good.

[Sidenote: _Mines._]

There is no Reason to question, but that there are in this Country, Mines of all Sorts of Metals, and of the richest, the Climate being the same as that of _New Mexico_. We saw several Spots, where it appeared there were Iron Mines, and found some Pieces of it on the Bank of the River, which Nature had cleansed. Travellers who have been at the upper Part of the _Missisipi_, affirm that they have found Mines there, of very good Lead.

[Sidenote: _Product._]

That Country is one of the most temperate in the World, and consequently whatsoever is sow’d there, whether Herbs, Roots, _Indian_ and even _European_ Corn thrives very well, as has been try’d by the Sieur _Boisrondet_, who sow’d of all Sorts, and had a plentiful Crop, and we eat of the Bread, which was very good. And whereas we were assured, that there were Vines which run up, whose Grapes are very good and delicious, growing along the River, it is reasonable to believe, that if those Vines were transplanted and prun’d, there might be very good Wine made of them. There is also Plenty of wild Apple and Pear Trees, and of several other Sorts, which would afford excellent Fruit, were they grafted and transplanted.

All other Sorts of Fruit, as Plumbs, Peaches and others, wherewith the Country abounds, would become exquisite, if the same Industry were us’d, and other Sorts of Fruit we have in _France_ would thrive well, if they were carry’d over. The Earth produces a Sort of Hemp, whereof Cloth might be made and Cordage.

[Sidenote: _Manners and Customs of the_ Islinois.]

[Sidenote: _Women do all Labour._]

As for the Manners and Customs of the _Islinois_, in many Particulars they are the same as those of the other Nations we have seen. They are naturally fierce and revengeful, and among them the Toil of Sowing, Planting, carrying of Burdens, and doing all other Things that belong to the Support of Life, appertains peculiarly to the Women. The Men have no other Business but going to the War and hunting, and the women must fetch the Game when they have kill’d it, which sometimes they are to carry very far to their Dwellings, and there to parch, or dress it any other Way.

When the Corn or other Grain is sow’d, the Women secure it from the Birds till it comes up. Those Birds are a sort of Starlings, like ours in _France_, but larger and fly in great Swarms.

[Sidenote: _Children._]

The _Islinois_ have but few Children, and are extremely fond of them; it is the Custom among them, as well as others I have mentioned, never to chide, or beat them, but only to throw Water at them, by Way of Chastisement.

[Sidenote: _Thieving._]

[Sidenote: _Boasting._]

The Nations we have spoken of before, are not at all, or very little, addicted to Thieving; but it is not so with the _Islinois_, and it behoves every Man to watch their Feet as well as their Hands, for they know how to turn any Thing out of the Way most dexterously. They are subject to the general Vice of all the other _Indians_, which is to boast very much of their Warlike Exploits, and that is the main Subject of their Discourse, and they are very great Lyars.

[Sidenote: _Care of the Dead._]

They pay a Respect to their Dead, as appears by their special Care of burying them, and even of putting into Coffins placed high above the ground, the Bodies of such as are considerable among them, as their Chiefs and others, which is also practiced among the _Accancea’s_, but they differ in this Particular, that the _Accancea’s_ weep and make their Complaints for some Days, whereas the _Chahouanous_ and other People of the _Islinois_ Nation do just the Contrary; for when any of them die, they wrap them up in Skins, and then put them into Coffins made of the Barks of Trees, then sing and dance about them for twenty four Hours. Those Dancers take Care to tie Calabashes, or Gourds about their Bodies, with some _Indian_ Wheat in them, to rattle and make a Noise, and some of them have a Drum, made of a great Earthen Pot, on which they extend a wild Goat’s Skin, and beat thereon with one Stick, like our Tabors.

[Sidenote: _Presents to the Dead._]

During that Rejoicing, they throw their Presents on the Coffin, as Bracelets, Pendants, or Pieces of Earthen Ware, and Strings of Beads, encouraging the Singers to perform their Duty well. If any Friend happens to come thither at that Time, he immediately throws down his Present and falls a singing and dancing like the rest. When that Ceremony is over, they bury the Body, with Part of the Presents, making choice of such as may be most proper for it. They also bury with it, some Store of _Indian_ Wheat, with a Pot to boil it in, for fear the dead Person should be hungry on his long Journey; and they repeat the same Ceremony at the Year’s End.

[Sidenote: _Game of the Stick._]

A good Number of Presents still remaining, they divide them into several Lots, and play at a Game, call’d of the Stick, to give them to the Winner. That Game is play’d, taking a short Stick, very smooth and greas’d, that it may be the Harder to hold it fast. One of the Elders throws that Stick as far as he can, the young Men run after it, snatch it from each other, and at last, he who remains possess’d of it, has the first Lot. The Stick is then thrown again, he who keeps it then has the second Lot, and so on to the End. The Women, whose Husbands have been slain in War, often perform the same Ceremony, and treat the Singers and Dancers whom they have before invited.

[Sidenote: _Marriages._]

The Marriages of the _Islinois_ last no longer, than the Parties agree together; for they freely part after a Hunting Bout, each going which Way they please, without any Ceremony. However, the Men are jealous enough of their Wives, and when they catch them in a Fault, they generally cut off their Noses, and I saw one who had been so serv’d.

[Sidenote: _Adultery._]