Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7
Part 15
The Song was begun again, the Women mixing in the Chorus, and the Concert was heightned by great hollow Calabashes or Gourds, in which there were large Gravel Stones, to make a Noise, the _Indians_ striking on them by Measure, to answer the Tone of the Choir; and the pleasantest of all was, that one of the _Indians_ plac’d himself behind Monsieur _Cavelier_ to hold him up, whilst at the same Time he shook and dandled him from Side to Side, the Motion answering to the Musick.
That Concert was scarce ended, when the Master of the Ceremonies brought two Maids, the one having in her Hand a Sort of Collar, and the other an Otter’s Skin, which they plac’d on the wooden Forks abovemention’d, at the Ends of the Pipe. Then he made them sit down, on each Side of Monsieur _Cavelier_, in such a Posture, that they look’d one upon the other, their Legs extended and intermix’d, on which the same Master of the Ceremonies laid Monsieur _Cavelier’s_ Legs, in such Manner, that they lay uppermost and across those of the two Maids.
Whilst this Action was performing, one of the Elders made fast a dy’d Feather to the back Part of Monsieur _Cavelier’s_ Head, tying it to his Hair. The Singing still continu’d all that Time, so that Monsieur _Cavelier_ grown weary of its Tediousness, and asham’d to see himself in that Posture between two Maids, without knowing to what Purpose, made Signs to us to signify the same to the Chief, and having given him to understand, that he was not well, two of the _Indians_ immediately took hold of him under the Arms, conducted him back to the Cottage and made Signs to him to take his Rest. This was about Nine in the Evening, and the _Indians_ spent all the Night in Singing, insomuch that some of them could hold out no longer.
In the Morning they return’d to Monsieur _Cavelier_, conducted him again out of the Cottage, with the same Ceremony and made him sit down, still singing on. Then the Master of the Ceremonies took the Pipe, which he fill’d with Tabacco, lighted and offered it to Monsieur _Cavelier_, but drawing back and advancing six Times before he gave it him. Having at last put it into his Hands, Monsieur _Cavelier_ made as if he had smok’d and return’d it to them. Then they made us all smoke round, and every one of them whiff’d in his Turn, the Musick still continuing.
[Sidenote: Cahaynohoua _Nation_.]
About Nine in the Morning, the Sun growing very hot, and Monsieur _Cavelier_ being bare Headed, made Signs that it did him Harm. Then at last they gave over singing, and conducted him back into the Cottage, took the Pipe, put it into a Case, made of a Wild-Goat’s Skin, with the two wooden Forks and the red Stick that lay across them, all which one of the Elders offer’d to Monsieur _Cavelier_, assuring him that he might pass thro’ all the Nations that were ally’d to them by Virtue of that Token of Peace, and should be every where well receiv’d. This was the first Place where we saw the _Calumet_, or Pipe of Peace, having no Knowledge of it before, as some have writ. This Nation is call’d _Cahaynohoua_.
[Sidenote: Indians _expect Presents_.]
This Sort of Ceremonies being never perform’d among the _Indians_ without the Expectation of receiving some Present, and we having besides observ’d, that some of them had withdrawn themselves, with Tokens of Dissatisfaction, perhaps because we had interrupted their Ceremony, we thought it convenient to give them something more, and I was appointed to carry them an Ax, four Knives and some Strings of Beads, with which they were satisfied.
We afterwards shew’d them an Experiment of our Arms, the Noise and Fire whereof frighted them. They earnestly press’d us to stay with them, offering us Wives and whatsoever else we should want. To be the better quit of them, we promis’d to return, saying we were going to fetch Commodities, Arms and Tools, which we stood in Need of, that we might afterwards stay with them.
The 9th and 10th were spent in Visits, and we were inform’d by one of the _Indians_ that we were not far from a great River, which he describ’d with a Stick on the Sand, and shew’d it had two Branches, at the same Time pronouncing the word _Cappa_, which, as I have said, is a Nation near the _Missisipi_. We then made no longer Question, that we were near what we had been so long looking after. We entreated the Elders to appoint some men to conduct us, promising to reward them well, which they granted, and we set out the 11th, to the great Sorrow of those good People, who had entertain’d us so courteously.
[Sidenote: _The Journey prosecuted._]
We travell’d several different Ways, which we could never have found, had we wanted Guides, and so proceeded till on the 12th, one of our Guides pretended to be sick, and made Signs that he would go back; but observing, that we seem’d to be no Way concern’d, which we did on Purpose, he consulted with his Companion, and then came to tell us, he was recover’d. We made him eat and smoke, and continued our Journey the 13th, finding the Way very bad and difficult.
The 14th, our _Indians_, having seen the Track of Bullocks, signify’d they would go kill some, to eat the Flesh, which made us halt for two or three Hours. Whilst we stay’d for our Hunters, we prepar’d some _Sagamite_, or their Sort of Hasty-Pudding. They return’d loaded with Flesh, Part whereof we dress’d, and eat it with very good Stomachs. Then we proceeded on our Journey till the 18th, and by the Way kill’d three Bullocks and two Cows, which oblig’d us to halt, that we might use of our Flesh, drying it.
[Sidenote: _Indians with Axes._]
The Night between the 19th and the 20th, one of our Horses breaking loose, was either taken away by the Natives, or lost in the Woods. That did not obstruct our Departure, tho’ the Loss was grievous to us, and we held on our Way till the 24th, when we met a Company of _Indians_, with Axes, going to fetch Barks of Trees, to cover their Cottages. They were surpriz’d to see us, but having made Signs to them to draw near, they came, caress’d and presented us with some Water Melons they had. They put off their Design of going to fetch Bark till another Time, and went along with us, and one of our Guides having gone before in the Morning to give Notice of our coming at the next Village, met with other Parcels of _Indians_, who were coming to meet us, and express’d extraordinary Kindness.
We halted in one of their Cottages, which they call _Desert_, because they are in the Midst of their Fields and Gardens. There we found several Women who had brought Bread, Gourds, Beans and Water Melons, a Sort of Fruit proper to quench Thirst, the Pulp of it being no better than Water.
[Sidenote: _A Cross by a River and a French built House._]
We set out again to come to the Village, and by the Way, met with very pleasant Woods, in which, there were Abundance of stately Cedars. Being come to a River, that was between us and the Village, and looking over to the further Side, we discover’d a great Cross, and at a small Distance from it, a House, built after the _French_ Fashion.
It is easy to imagine what inward Joy we conceiv’d at the Sight of that Emblem of our Salvation. We knelt down, lifting up our Hands and Eyes to Heaven, to return Thanks to the Divine Goodness, for having conducted us so happily; for we made no Question of finding _French_ on the other Side of the River, and of their being Catholicks, since they had Crosses.
In short, having halted some Time on the Bank of that River, we spy’d several Canoes making towards us, and two Men cloath’d, coming out of the House we had discover’d, who, the Moment they saw us, fir’d each of them a Shot to salute us. An _Indian_ being Chief of the Village, who was with them, had done so before, and we were not backward in returning their Salute, by discharging all our Pieces.
[Sidenote: _Dwelling of French._]
When we had pass’d the River, and were all come together, we soon knew each other to be _French_ Men. Those we found were the Sieurs _Couture Charpantier_ and _de Launay_, both of them of _Roan_, whom Monsieur _de Tonty_, Governor of Fort St. _Lewis_ among the _Islinois_, had left at that Post, when he went down the _Missisipi_ to look after Monsr. _de la Sale_; and the Nation we were then with, was call’d _Accancea_.
[Sidenote: _The Travellers come to the French Habitation._]
It is hard to express the Joy conceiv’d on both Sides; ours was unspeakable, for having at last found, what we had so earnestly desired, and that the Hopes of returning to our dear Country, was in some Measure assured by that happy Discovery. The others were pleased to see such Persons as might bring them News of that Commander, from whom they expected the Performance of what he had promis’d them; but the Account we gave them of Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ unfortunate Death, was so afflicting, that it drew Tears from them, and the dismal History of his Troubles and Disasters render’d them almost inconsolable.
We were conducted to the House, whither all our Baggage was honestly carry’d by the _Indians_. There was a very great Throng of those People, both Men and Women, which being over, we came to the Relation of the particular Circumstances of our Stories. Ours was deliver’d by Monsieur _Cavelier_, whom we honour’d as our Chief, for being Brother to him, who had been so.
[Sidenote: _Who the Frenchmen were._]
We were inform’d by them, that they had been Six, sent by Monsr. _Tonty_, when he return’d from the Voyage he had made down the _Colbert_ or _Missisipi_ River, pursuant to the Orders sent him by the late Monsr. _de la Sale_, at his Departure from _France_, and that the said Sieur _Tonty_ had commanded them to build the aforesaid House. That having never since receiv’d any News from the said Monsr. _de la Sale_, Four of them were gone back to Monsr. _Tonty_, at the Fort of the _Islinois_.
In Conclusion, it was agreed among us, to go away as soon as possible, towards the _Islinois_, and conceal from the _Indians_, the Death of Monsieur _de la Sale_, to keep them still in Awe and under Submission, whilst we went away with the first Ships that should happen to sail from _Canada_ for _France_, to give an Account at Court of what had happen’d, and to procure Succours. In the mean Time, the Chief of the _Indians_ came to invite us to eat. We found Mats laid on the Ground for us to sit on, and all the Village met to see us.
[Sidenote: _Kind_ Indians.]
We gave them to understand, that we came from Monsieur _de la Sale_, who had made a Settlement on the Bay of _Mexico_; that we had pass’d thro’ many Nations, which we nam’d, and that we were going to _Canada_ for Commodities, and would return down the River; that we would bring Men to defend them against their Enemies and then settle among them; that the Nations we had pass’d through had appointed Men to guide us, and we desired the same Favour of them, with some Canoes and Provisions, and that we would reward our Guides and pay for what they furnish’d us.
The Conveniency of an Interpreter, we then had, gave us the Opportunity of making ourselves be easily understood, and the Chief answer’d to our Proposals, that he would send Men to the other Villages to acquaint them with our Demands, and to consult with them what was to be done in that Case; that as for the rest, they were amaz’d at our having pass’d thro’ so many Nations, without having been detain’d, or kill’d, considering what a small Number we were.
When the Discourse was ended, that Chief caus’d Meat to be set before us, as dry’d Flesh, Bread made of _Indian_ Corn of several Sorts, and Water Melons; after which he made us smoke, and then we return’d to our House, where being eas’d of all those Impediments, we gave each other an Account of our Affairs, at Leisure, and were inform’d, that those People impatiently expected[114] the Return of Monsieur _de la Sale_, which confirm’d us in the Resolution of concealing his Death. We observ’d the Situation of that Post, and were made acquainted with the Nature of the Country and the Manners of those People, of which I shall give the following Remarks.
[Sidenote: French _House among the_ Acconcea’s _describ’d_.]
The House we were then in, was built of Pieces of Cedar laid one upon another, and rounded away at the Corners; its roof is of bark. It is seated on a small Eminency, half a Musket-shot from the Village, in a Country abounding in all Things. The Plains lying on one Side of it, are stor’d with Beeves, wild Goats, Deer, Turkeys, Bustards, Swans, Ducks, Teal and other Game.
[Sidenote: _Product of the Country_.]
The Trees produce plenty of Fruit, and very good, as Peaches, Plumbs, Mulberries, Grapes, and Wallnuts. They have a Sort of Fruit they call _Piaguimina_, not unlike our Medlars, but much better and more delicious. Such as live near the Rivers, as that House is, do not want for Fish of all Sorts, and they have _Indian_ Wheat, whereof they make good Bread. There are also fine Plains diversify’d with several Sorts of Trees, as I have said before.
[Sidenote: _Nation of the_ Accancea’s.]
The Nation of the _Accancea’s_ consists of four Villages. The first is call’d _Otsotchove_, near which we were; the second _Toriman_, both of them seated on the River; the third _Tonginga_; and the fourth _Cappa_, on the Bank of the _Missisipi_. These Villages are built after a different Manner from the others we had seen before, in this Point, that the Cottages, which are alike as to their Materials and Rounding at the Top, are long, and cover’d with the Bark of Trees, and so very large, that several of them can hold two hundred Persons, belonging to several Families.
[Sidenote: _Household Stuff._]
The people are not so neat as the _Cenis_, or the _Assonis_ in their Houses, for some of them lie on the Ground, without any Thing under them but some Mats, or a dress’d Hide. However, some of them have more Conveniencies, but the Generality has not.[115] All their Moveables consist in some Earthen Vessels and oval wooden Platters, which are neatly made, and with which they drive a Trade.
[Sidenote: _Shape._]
They are generally very well shap’d and active; the Women are handsome, or at least have a much better Presence than those of the other Villages we pass’d thro’ before. They make Canoes all of one Piece, which are well wrought. As for themselves they are very faithful, good natur’d, and Warriors like the rest.
[Sidenote: _The Ceremony of the Pipe perform’d to M._ Cavelier.]
The 25th, the Elders being assembled, came to see us, and told the Sieur _Couture_, that they design’d to sing and dance the _Calumet_, or Pipe; because the others had sung it, some of them to the late Monsieur _de la Sale_, and the rest to Monsieur _Tonty_, and therefore it was but reasonable they should do the same to get a Firelock, as well as the others. Monsieur _Cavelier_ was inform’d of it, and it was requisite to consent to it, to please those _Indians_, because we stood in need of them.
[Sidenote: _Ceremony of the Pipe._]
The Ceremony began with Monsieur _Cavelier_, who was led under the Arms and seated on a Hide, without the Cottage. The Forks, the Skins laid on it in Honour of the Pipe, the Singing as loud as they cou’d roar, both by Men and Women, and all the other Ceremonies were observ’d, as I have mention’d them before; so that Monsieur _Cavelier_ being weary of them, he caus’d the Chief to be told, that he was out of Order, and desir’d his Nephew might be put in his Place, which was done accordingly, and they spent the whole Night in Singing. In the Morning they perform’d some other Ceremonies, not worth relating.
The Solemnity being ended, by every Man’s smoking of the Pipe, the _Indians_ took it, with some Bullocks Hides, and Goats and Otters Skins, and a Collar made of Shells, all which they carry’d to our House, and we gave them a Firelock, two Axes, six Knives, one hundred Charges of Powder, as much Ball, and some Strings of Beads for their Wives. The Chief having given Notice of our coming to the other Villages, their Deputies came to see us; we entertain’d them in the House, and propos’d to them our Designs, as had been done to the Chief. They stood considering a While, then held a Sort of Consultation among themselves, which held not long without talking, and then agreed to grant us what we ask’d, which was a Canoe and a Man of each Village to conduct us, upon the promis’d Consideration, and so they went away to the Cottage of the Chief of the Village.
[Sidenote: _The Journey continued._]
The 27th, the Chief and the Elders met again to consult about what we demanded of them; the Length of the Journey made them apprehensive for those, who were to conduct us; but, at Length, we having dispell’d their Fears by our Arguments, and they having again deliberated some Time, agreed to our Request. We again made them a Present, promising a good Reward to our Guides, and so we prepar’d to set forwards. Little _Bartholomew_ the _Parisian_, having intimated to us, that he would willingly stay in that House, because he was none of the ablest of Body, we recommended him to the Sieur _Couture_. We desir’d those that remain’d there, to keep the Secret of Monsr. _de la Sale’s_ Death, promis’d to send them Relief, left them our Horses, which were of great Use to go a Hunting, and gave them fifteen or sixteen Pounds of Powder, eight hundred Balls, three hundred Flints, twenty-six Knives, and ten Axes, two or three Pounds Weight of Beads; Monsr. _Cavelier_ left them Part of his Linen, hoping we should soon be in a Place where we should get more; and all of them having made their Peace with God, by Means of the Sacrament of Penance, we took Leave of them, excepting the Sieur _Couture_, who went to conduct us Part of the Way.
[Sidenote: Toriman _Village_.]
We imbark’d on a Canoe belonging to one of the Chiefs, being at least twenty Persons, as well Women as Men, and arriv’d safe, without any Trouble, at a Village call’d _Toriman_, for we were going down the River. We were well received in the Chief’s wigwam, and were treated as we had been when among the others. We propos’d it to these People, or rather demanded it of them to confirm what had been granted us by the others, and they deferr’d giving us their Answer till the next Day; for they do Nothing without consulting about it, and we having brought a Sack of _Indian_ Wheat, from the _French_ Mens House, desir’d the Chief to cause Women to pound it, for which we would give ’em Something. Immediately he made a Sign to his Officers to go call them, and they went as readily.
[Sidenote: _Officers._]
There were seven or eight of those Officers always about him, stark naked and besmear’d, some after one Fashion, and others after another. Each of them had three or four Calabashes or Gourds, hanging at a Leather Girdle about their Wastes, in which there were several Pebbles, and behind them hung a Horse’s Tail, so that when they ran, the Gourds made a ratling Noise, and the Tail being born up by the Wind, stood out at its full Length, so that Nothing could be seen more ridiculous; but it behooved us to take Heed of shewing the least Smile.
[Sidenote: _The River_ Missisipi _found at last_.]
The remaining Part of the Day was spent in going with the Sieur _Couture_ to see the fatal River so much sought after by us, called _Colbert_, when first discover’d, and _Missisipi_, or, _Mechasipi_ by the Natives that were near us. It is a very fine River and deep, the Breadth of it about a Quarter of a League, and the Stream very rapid. The Sieur _Couture_ assur’d us, that it has two Branches or Channels, which parted from each other above us, and that we had pass’d its other Branch, when we came to the first Village of the _Accancea’s_, with which Nation we still were.
[Sidenote: _Particular Ceremonies._]
The 28th, the Chief and the Elders being assembled, they granted our Requests. We were to part, in order to be entertain’d in several Places, where we took Notice of some particular Ceremonies, which we had not seen among the other Nations. One of them is, that they serve up their Meat in two or four large Dishes, which are first set down before the two principal Guests, who are at one End, and when they have eaten a little, those Dishes are shov’d down lower and others are served up in their Place, in the same Manner; so that the first Dishes are serv’d at the upper End and thrust down lower as others come in.
He who treats, does not sit down with the Company, nor does he eat, but performs the Part of a Steward, taking Care of the Dressing and of the Placing of the Meat serv’d up; and to the End he may appear the finer, he never fails to besmear himself with Clay, or some red or black Colouring they make use of.
[Sidenote: Tonningua _Village_.]
The 29th, we set out from that Village, and imbark’d on two Canoes to cross the _Missisipi_. The Chief and about a Score of young Folks bore us Company to the next Village call’d _Tonningua_, seated on the Bank of that River, where we were receiv’d in the Chief’s Cottage, as we had been in the others. The Elders treated us in their Turns, and the Descriptions before given will serve for this Place, there being but little Difference between them and their Neighbours.
[Sidenote: Cappa _Village_.]
[Sidenote: _Aug. 1687_]
The 30th, we set out for _Cappa_, the last Village of the _Accancea’s_, eight Leagues distant from the Place we had left. We were obliged to cross the River _Missisipi_ several Times in this Way; because it winds very much, and we had some foul Weather, which made it late before we could reach _Cappa_. A great Number of Youth came to meet us, some of them conducted us to the Chief’s Cottage, and others took Care of our Baggage, which was restor’d to us very honestly. We found the Elders waiting for us; a great Fire was kindled to dry us, and the Cottage was lighted by several burning Reeds,[116] which they make use of instead of Flambeaus; after which we were serv’d as in other Places.
The 31st, we receiv’d Visits from the Elders. Their Discourse ran upon the War they design’d to make, thinking to ingage us in it, and we return’d the same Answer as we had done to the others, that we would soon return with all Things we stood in Need of. We ask’d a Man of them, which was granted, and the Day ended in Feasting.
[Sidenote: _Entertainment given by the Indians._]
We would willingly have set out the First of _August_; but the Chief came and told us, it could not be, because the Women had not pounded our Corn, which however was done; but they made use of that Pretence to oblige us to stay, and to have Leisure to give us some Diversion, after their Manner. Accordingly, about Ten in the Morning, the Warriors and Youth came together to Dance. They were dress’d after their best Manner, some of them wearing Plumes of several Colours, wherewith they adorn their Heads, others, instead of Feathers, had two Bullocks Horns, and were all besmear’d with Clay, of Black or of Red, so that they really look’d like a Company of Devils or Monsters, and in those Figures they danc’d, as I have describ’d it, speaking of the other Nations.
[Sidenote: Machigamea _Nation_.]