Joutel's Journal of La Salle's Last Voyage, 1684-7
Part 14
After that, _Hiens_ and his Companions withdrew to their own Cottage, and we resolv’d not to put off our Departure any longer. Accordingly, we made ready our Horses, which much alarm’d the Natives, and especially the Chief of them, who said and did all he could to obstruct our Journey, promising us Wives, Plenty of Provisions, representing to us the immense Dangers, as well from Enemies, who surrounded them, as from the bad and impassable Ways and the many Woods and Rivers we were to pass. However, we were not to be moved, and only ask’d one Kindness of him, in obtaining of which, there were many difficulties, and it was, that he would give us Guides to conduct us to _Cappa_; but at length, after much Trouble and many Promises of a good Reward, one was granted, and two others went along with him.
[Sidenote: French _Men stay with the_ Indians.]
[Sidenote: _Only seven set out for_ Canada.]
All Things being thus order’d for our Departure, we took Leave of our Hosts, pass’d by _Heins_’s Cottage and embrac’d him and his Companions. We ask’d him for another Horse, which he granted. He desired an Attestation in _Latin_ of Monsieur _Cavelier_, that he had not been concern’d in the Murder of Monsieur _de la Sale_, which was given him, because there was no refusing of it; and we set forward without _Larcheveque_ and _Meunier_, who did not keep their Word with us, but remain’d among those Barbarians, being infatuated with that Course of Libertinism they had run themselves into. Thus there were only seven of us that stuck together to return to _Canada_, _viz._ Father _Anastasius_, Messieurs _Cavelier_ the Uncle and the Nephew, the Sieur _de Marle_, one _Teissier_, a young Man born at _Paris_, whose Name was _Bartholomew_ and I, with six horses and the three _Indians_, who were to be our Guides; a very small Number for so great an Enterprize, but we put ourselves entirely into the Hands of Divine Providence, confiding in God’s Mercy, which did not forsake us.
After the first Day’s Journey we incamp’d on the Bank of the River, we had left not long before, lay there that Night, and the next Day, cut down Trees to make a Sort of Bridge or Planks to pass over it; handing over our Goods from one to another, and swimming over our Horses; which Work we were frequently oblig’d to repeat, and as often as we had afterwards Occasion to pass Rivers on our Way, which we held on till the 29th, every Day meeting with some Cottage, and at last, a Hamlet or Village, into which we went, and the _Indian_ Inhabitants told us, they were call’d _Nahordikhe_,[111] and that they were Allies to the _Cenis_.
[Sidenote: Nahordikhes _and_ Assony.]
We barter’d with them for some Provisions, and their Chief offer’d to go with us as far as the _Assonys_, who were not farther off than about three Leagues, which he accordingly did; but it happening to rain when we came thither, and the _Assonys_ having had no Notice before hand, we found but indifferent Reception.
However, we were conducted to the Chief’s Cottage; the Elders had Notice given them, they resorted thither, and when our Horses were unloaded, and our Goods plac’d in a Corner of the Cottage, which the Chief had allotted us, we gave them to understand, that our Intention was to go farther, to fetch Commodities to trade with them, at which they were pleas’d. They gave us to eat, and the Elders stay’d some Part of the Evening with us, which made us somewhat Uneasy, and oblig’d us to be upon our Guard; however the Night pass’d without any Disturbance.
The next Morning the Elders came to us again. They had provided Mats without the Cottage, and made Signs to us to go thither and sit down upon them, as we did, leaving two of our Company to guard the Baggage. We repeated to them what we had said the Night before, and made them some Presents of Axes, Knives, Strings of Beads and Rings. They signify’d they were sorry we would go away, and endeavour’d the best they could, to make us sensible of the same Obstacles the others had signify’d to us; but it was all in Vain; however, we stay’d till the first of _June_, all the while bartering and gathering the best stock of Provisions we could.
[Sidenote: _June 1687_]
[Sidenote: _Good Entertainment._]
The Second, we remov’d from that Cottage, where we had some Jealousy, and went to another, a Quarter of a League from it, where the Chief of it gave us a very good Reception. An old Woman, who was either his Mother, or Governess of the Cottage, took particular Care of us: We were first serv’d at eating, and to keep her in that good Mind, we now and then made her some little Presents, whilst she, by her Care and Kindness, spar’d our Provisions, which were necessary for our Journey.
A continual Rain oblig’d us to stay there till the 13th. During our Stay, the Natives made several Feasts, to which we were always invited; and at length the Rain ceasing, we resolv’d to set out, notwithstanding all Monsieur _Cavelier_ the Priest’s Apprehensions, which we surmounted, and directed our Course towards the _N. E._ with two _Indians_, who were to conduct us only a small Way, and who accordingly soon left us, whatsoever Promises we could make them. They departed to return Home, promising they would come to us again. We encamp’d that Night on the Bank of a Rivulet.
[Sidenote: _Bad Ways._]
The 14th and 15th, we held on our Way, frequently meeting with Sloughs, which very much fatigued us, because we were oblig’d to unload our Horses for them to pass, and prevent their sticking in the Mire and fat Soil, whence we could not have drawn them out, and consequently we were fain to carry all our Luggage on our own Backs.
Whilst we halted about Noon, that our Horses might graze, as was usually done by us, we discover’d our two _Assony Indians_ returning towards us, at which we were much rejoiced, because they had a better Notion than ourselves of the Way we were to go. We made them eat and smoke, and then set out again.
The 16th, we came to a great River, which we pass’d as we had done the first, and after that, met with very bad Ways.
[Sidenote: _Art to Kill Goats and Wild Fowl._]
The 17th, one of our Company being indispos’d, we could not set out till Noon, and held on till the 21st, crossing several Sloughs and Rivers, and then one of our _Indians_ being out of Order, it oblig’d us to stay on the Bank of a River we had pass’d. The other _Indian_ seeing his comrade sick, went a Hunting, and brought a wild Goat; for there are many in that Country. The _Indians_ have the Art of dressing the Heads of those Creatures, which they put upon their own, and imitate them so exactly, that they can come very near to them, and then seldom fail of killing. The same Method they use for Turkeys and other wild Fowl, and so draw them close to themselves.
[Sidenote: _Fine Meadows._]
The 22d, our _Indian_ being somewhat recover’d we decamp’d and proceeded along a better Way and Pleasanter Country, than that we had left behind, and as we enquir’d the best we could of those our _Indians_, concerning the Neighbouring Nations and those we were going towards, among others they nam’d to us, that they call’d _Cappa_. M. _Cavelier_ told us, he remember’d he had heard his late Brother Monsieur _de la Sale_ name that Nation, and say he had seen it as he went from _Canada_ towards the _Missisipi_. This put us in Hopes, that we should succeed in our Discovery.
The 23d, being near a Village, we had been in Search of, one of our _Indians_ went before, to give Notice of our Arrival. In the mean Time we cross’d most lovely Plains and Meadows, border’d with fine Groves of beautiful Trees, where the Grass was so high, that it hinder’d our Horses going, and were oblig’d to clear the Passage for them.
When we were within Half a League of the Village, we saw an _Indian_, mounted on a large grey Mare, coming along with our Native, to meet us, and were told, that Horseman was the Chief of the Village, attended by some others of the same Place. As soon as that Chief came up to us, he express’d very much Kindness and Affection; we gave him to understand, that we did no Body any Harm, unless we were first attack’d. Then we made him smoke, and when that was done, he made Signs to us to follow him, which we did, till we came to the Bank of a River, where he again desir’d us to stay, whilst he went to give Notice to the Elders.
[Sidenote: M. Cavelier _and the rest carry’d on the Backs of Indians_.]
Soon after, a Number of them came, and having join’d us, signify’d, that they were come to carry us to their Village. Our _Indians_ made Signs, that it was the Custom of the Country, and we must submit, and let them do as they thought fit. Tho’ we were much out of Countenance at that Ceremony, seven of the prime Men among them would have us mount on their Backs or Shoulders. Monsieur _Cavelier_ being our Chief, mounted first, and then the rest did the same.
As for my own Part, being of a pretty large Size and loaded with Cloaths, a Firelock, a Case of Pistols, Powder and Ball, a Kettle and other Implements, there is no Doubt but I made a sufficient Burden for him that carry’d me, and because I was taller than he and my Feet would have hung upon the Ground, two other _Indians_ held them up for me; so that I had three to carry me. Other _Indians_ took hold of our Horses to lead them, and in that ridiculous Equipage we arriv’d at the Village. Our Carriers, who had gone a long Quarter of a League, had need enough to rest, and we to be set down, that we might laugh in private, for it behov’d us to take Care not to do it before them.
[Sidenote: _Ceremonies at their Reception._]
As soon as we were come to the Chief’s Cottage, where we found above two hundred Persons, who were come to see us, and that our Horses were unloaded, the Elders gave us to understand, that it was their Custom to wash Strangers at their first Coming; but that we being clad, they would only wash our Faces; which one of those elders did, with fair Water they had in a Sort of Earthen Vessel, and he only wash’d our Forehead.
[Sidenote: _Speeches made to them._]
After this second Ceremony, the Chief made Signs to us, to sit down on a Sort of little Scaffold, rais’d about 4 Foot above the Ground, and made of Wood and Canes, where when we were plac’d, the Chiefs of the Villages being four in Number, came and made Speeches to us, one after another. We listened to them with Patience, tho’ we understood not one Word of what they said to us; being tir’d with the Length of their Harangues, and much more with the violent Heat of the Sun, which was just over our Heads.
When the Speeches were ended, the Purport whereof, as near as we could guess, was only to assure us, that we were very welcome; we gave them to understand, that we were going into our own Country, designing to return speedily, to bring them several Sorts of Commodities and such Things as they should stand in need of.
Next, we made them the usual Presents of Axes, Knives, Strings of Beads, Needles and Pins, for their Wives, telling them, that when we return’d we would give them more.
[Sidenote: _Their Entertainment._]
We farther signify’d to them, that if they would afford us some Corn or Meal, we would give them other Things in Exchange, which they agreed to. After this they made us eat _Sagamite_, or Hasty-pudding, Bread, Beans, Pompions and other Things, which we had sufficient Need of. Most of us having scarce eaten any Thing all that Day, some for Want, and others out of Devotion, as Monsr. _Cavelier_, who would observe the Fast of St. _John Baptist_’s Eve, whose Name he bore. It is to be observ’d, that the Pompions are incomparably better there, than with us.
The 24th, the Elders met again in our Cottage. We gave them to understand, they would oblige us,[112] in furnishing Guides to conduct us to the Village of _Cappa_, which was in our Way; but instead of granting it, they earnestly intreated us, to stay with them and go to the Wars against their Enemies, having been told Wonders of our Firelocks, which we promis’d to do when we return’d, and that it should be shortly, and they seem’d to rest satisfy’d.
[Sidenote: _Mr._ de Marle _drown’d_.]
Thus our Hopes increas’d, but the Joy it occasion’d was allay’d by a dismal Accident that befell us. Monsieur _de Marle_, one of the prime Men of our Company, having Breakfasted, would needs go Bath himself in the River we had pass’d the Day before, and not knowing how to swim, he went too far and step’d into a Hole, whence he could not recover himself, but was unfortunately drowned. Young Monsieur _Cavelier_, having been told that Monsieur _de Marle_ was going to Bath himself, ran after him, and coming to the River, saw he was drowning, he ran back to acquaint us: We hasted thither with a Number of _Indians_, who were there before us; but all too late, some of them div’d, and brought him up dead from the Bottom of the Water.
[Sidenote: _His Funeral._]
We carry’d him to the Cottage, shedding many Tears, the _Indians_ bore Part in our Sorrow, and we paid him the last Duties, offering up the usual Prayers; after which he was buryed in a small Field, behind the Cottage; and whereas, during that doleful Ceremony, we pray’d, reading in our Books, particularly Monsieur _Cavelier_, the Priest and Father _Anastasius_, the _Indians_ gaz’d on us with Amazement, because we talk’d, looking upon the Leaves, and we endeavour’d to give them to understand, that we pray’d to God for the dead Man, pointing up to Heaven.
[Sidenote: _Humanity of the Indians._]
We must do this Right to those good People, as to declare, that they express’d singular Humanity upon that doleful Accident, as appear’d by the sensible Testimony of their Actions, and all the Methods they us’d to let us understand how great a Share they bore in our Sorrow; which we should not have found in several Parts of _Europe_.
[Sidenote: _Indian Ceremony to the Dead._]
[Sidenote: _Indian Nations._]
During our short Stay in that Place, we observ’d a Ceremony that was perform’d by the Chief’s Wife, _viz._ that every Morning she went to Monsieur _de Marle’s_ Grave, and carry’d a little Basket of parch’d Ears of Corn to lay on it, the meaning whereof we could not understand. Before our Departure, we were inform’d, that the Villages belonging to our Hosts, being four in Number, all ally’d together were call’d, _Assony_, _Natsohsos_, _Nachitos_ and _Cadodaquio_.
On the 27th, having been inform’d by the Natives, that we should find Canoes, to pass a River that was on our Way, Father _Anastasius_ and I went to see whether, what they told us was true. We found that River was a Branch of the same we had already pass’d, the Channel of it being pleasant and navigable, and saw some Canoes, in one of which the _Indians_ carry’d us over to the other Side, whether we went to see what convenient Place there was for our Horses to come ashore. We found a very proper Place, and returning, made our Report to Monsieur _Cavelier_, who being then much out of Order with Pains in his Feet, we were oblig’d to stay there, till the 30th.
[Sidenote: Janiquo _Nation_.]
[Sidenote: _Doleful Entertainment._]
During that Time, we were frequently visited by the _Indians_, both Old and Young, and of both Sexes, and even the Chiefs of the Nation, call’d _Janiquo_, came to see us, and with them we often convers’d in dumb Show, and every Evening the Women, attended by the Warriors, with their Bows and Arrows, resorted to our Cottage, to sing a doleful Sort of Song, shedding Tears at the same Time. This would have given us some Uneasiness, had we not before seen the same Ceremony, and been inform’d, that those Women repair in that Manner to the Chief’s Cottage, to intreat him, singing and weeping, to take Revenge on those, who have kill’d their Husbands, or Relations, in former Wars, as I have observ’d before. In all other Respects, the Manners and Customs of this Nation, being much the same as those of the _Cenis_, I shall add no more concerning them.
The 29th, at Night, we gave Notice to the Chief, that we would set out the next Day, we made him some Presents in particular, and the like to his Wife, because she had taken special Care of us, and departed on the 30th. The Chief, attended by many other _Indians_, whom we found in the Cottages on our Way, went to Conduct us as far as the River, which we cross’d in Canoes, and swam over our Horses. There we took Leave of our Conductors, to whom we gave some Strings of Beads for their Wives, and their Chief would needs Conduct us to the next Village.
[Sidenote: Cadodaquio _Village_.]
By the Way we came to a Cottage, where our Guide made us halt, and there they gave us to eat. Then we held on our Journey to a Village call’d _Cadodaquio_, and were conducted to the Chief’s Cottage, who receiv’d us courtiously, being a Friend to him that went with us. It was requisite to unload our Horses to lie there, and we signified to the Chief, that we stood in Need of Provisions. He spoke to the Women, who brought us some Meal, which we purchased with Strings of Beads, and the Chief, who conducted us thither, took his Leave.
Having no Design to stay there any Time, we had desired the Chief to appoint some Person to guide us to the Village call’d _Cahainihoüa_, which was in our Way. It happen’d by good Fortune, that there were then in that Place some Men and Women of the said Village, who were come to fetch some Wood, fit to make Bows, there being Plenty of that Sort of Trees they make them of, about the Village we were in. We signify’d our Design to them and they gave us to understand they would be glad to bear us Company. In the Conversation we had with them, they made us comprehend, that they had seen People like us, who had Firelocks and a House, and that they were acquainted with the _Cappa’s_, which was very pleasing to us. Because they were not to depart till two Days after, we resolv’d to stay for them.
[Sidenote: _Peculiar Custom._]
We observ’d, that there was a Difference between the Language of those People and the Inhabitants of the Village we were in, from that of the _Cenis_, and that they had some peculiar Ceremonies, one whereof is, that when the Women have their Terms, they leave the Company of their Husbands and withdraw into other Cottages appointed for that Purpose, which no Person is to come near, upon Pain of being reputed unclean.
[Sidenote: _Ornaments of Women._]
[Sidenote: _July 1687_]
Those Women have their Faces still more disfigur’d, than the others we had seen before; for they make several Streaks, or Scores on them, whereas the others had but one. They adorn themselves with little Locks of fine red Hair; which they make fast to their Ears in the Nature of Pendants. In other Respects they are not disagreeable, and neither Women nor Maids are so ill-natur’d as to make their Lovers pine for them. They are not difficult of Access, and they soon make a Return for a small Present.
[Sidenote: _The Men._]
The Men wear their Hair short, like our _Capucins_, they anoint it with a sort of Oyl, or Grease, and curl it like snails, after which they strew on it a Sort of Down, or Lint, died red, as we do Powder, which is done when they design to be very fine, in order to appear in their Assemblies. They are very fond of their Children, and all the Way of chastising them they use, is to throw Water at them, without ever beating or giving them ill Words.
The _Indians_ that were of the Village of _Cohainihoua_[113] and to conduct us thither, not being ready to set out on _Wednesday_ the 2d of _July_, as they had promis’d, a young _Indian_ offer’d himself, saying, he would conduct us safe thither, and we set out with him, still directing our Course towards the _N. E._ We kept close along the same River we had cross’d, and found it very pleasant and navigable, the Banks of it cover’d with fine Trees of several Sorts.
We had not travell’d above a League, before our Guide gave us to understand, that he had forgot a Piece of hard dry’d Skin he had to make him Shoes, which he would go fetch and return to us, pointing to us with his Hand, which Way we were to go, and telling us we should soon come to a River.
This sudden Change in the _Indian_ was somewhat surprizing and very much perplex’d us; however we held on our Way, and soon came to the River he had mention’d to us, which was very pleasant and deep. We cross’d it the next Day, on a Sort of Float, which we made with much Toil and Labour, and our Horses swam over. Some Time after we were passed, we saw the _Indians_ coming, who had promised to bear us Company, and were glad to find our Float, to cross the same River, as they did, and proceeded on our Journey all together.
[Sidenote: _Plenty of Game._]
The 4th, 5th and 6th, we did the same, crossing a very fine Country, but water’d by many Brooks, Streams and Rivers. We found Abundance of wild Goats, Turkeys and other wild Fowl, whereof our _Indians_ kill’d many.
On the 6th, whilst we halted on the Bank of a River to eat, we heard the Tingling of some small Bells; which making us look about, we spy’d an _Indian_ with a naked Sword-Blade in his Hand, adorned with Feathers of several Colours, and two large Hawks Bells, that occasion’d the Noise we had heard.
He made Signs for us to come to him, and gave us to understand, that he was sent by the Elders of the Village, whither we were going, to meet us, caressing us after an extraordinary Manner. I observ’d that it was a Spanish Blade he had, and that he took Pleasure in ringing the Hawks Bells.
[Sidenote: _Kind Reception._]
Having travell’d about half a League with him, we discover’d a Dozen of other _Indians_ coming towards us, who made very much of and conducted us the Village, to the Chief’s Cottage, where we found dry’d Bear-Skins laid on the Ground, and they made us sit on them, where we were treated with Eatables, as were the Elders after us, and a Throng of Women came to see us.
[Sidenote: _Presents._]
The 7th, the Elders came to give us a Visit, bringing us two Bullocks Hides, four Otters Skins, one white Wild-Goat’s Skin, all of them well dry’d, and 4 Bows, in Return for the Present we had before made them. The Chief and another came again some Time after, bringing two Loaves, the finest and the best we had yet seen. They look’d as if they had been bak’d in an Oven, and yet we had not observ’d, that there were Ovens among any of them. That Chief stay’d with us some Hours, he seem’d to be very ingenious and discreet, and easily understood our Signs, which were most of the Language we had. Having order’d a little Boy to bring us all we had Occasion for, he withdrew.
[Sidenote: _The Ceremony of the Pipe._]
Towards the Evening, we were entertain’d with a Ceremony we had not seen before. A Company of Elders, attended by some young Men and Women came to our Cottage in a Body, singing as loud as they could roar. The foremost of them had a _Calumet_, so they call a very long Sort of Tabacco Pipe, adorn’d with several Sorts of Feathers. When they had sung a while, before our Cottage, they enter’d it, still singing on, for about a Quarter of an Hour. After that, they took Monsieur _Cavelier_ the Priest, as being our Chief, led him in solemn Manner out of the Cottage, supporting him under the Arms. When they were come to a Place they had prepared, one of them laid a great Handful of Grass under his feet, two others brought fair Water in an Earthen Dish, with which they wash’d his Face, and then made him sit down on a Skin, provided for that Purpose.
When Monsieur _Cavelier_ was seated, the Elders took their Places, sitting round about him, and the Master of the Ceremonies fix’d in the Ground two little wooden Forks, and having laid a Stick across them, all being painted red, he placed on them a Bullock’s Hide, dryed, a Goat’s Skin over that, and then laid the Pipe thereon.