Category: Travel Writing

Journey to Lhasa and Central Tibet

November 7, 1881.—On the night of my departure from Darjiling, [3] the moon was shining brightly, though some dark clouds presaged a slight fall of rain. Our eyes often turned with anxiety towards the mountain-tops on the eastern outskirts of Nepal, to see if snow was falling...

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I.

November 7, 1881.—On the night of my departure from Darjiling, [3] the moon was shining brightly, though some dark clouds presaged a slight fall of rain. Our eyes often turned w...

2. CHAPTER II.

We entered the monastery of Tashilhunpo by the little western gate, in front of which stand two chortens—one very large with a gilt spire, the other smaller but neatly construct...

3. CHAPTER III.

December 26.—We were up early, finishing our letters and getting Phurchung ready for his journey to the Sikkim frontier. After tea I sent Ugyen to the market to buy provisions f...

4. CHAPTER IV.

January 13.—The money we had brought from Darjiling being almost expended, we were now in the necessity of selling the pearls and gold we had brought with us. I therefore sent U...

5. CHAPTER V.

On Wednesday, April 26, 1882, being the eighth day of the third moon of the water-horse year of the Tibetan cycle, I left Tashilhunpo for Dongtse, there to make my final arrange...

6. CHAPTER VI.

Preceded by Pador carrying his long lance and by Tsing-ta driving the pack-pony, we entered the city. The policemen (korchagpa) [233] marked us as new-comers, but none of them q...

7. CHAPTER VII.

The Dalai lama’s [288] position resembles that held until lately by the Pope in the Christian world. He is believed by the Northern Buddhists to be the Buddha’s Vice-regent inca...

8. CHAPTER VIII.

The bells of the Jo khang were ringing and the great trumpets of Tangye-ling were summoning the lamas to early morning service, when, on June 13, I took from the roof of our hou...

9. CHAPTER IX.

On September 19 the minister left Dongtse, and I despatched Ugyen once more to the Rigyal Shendar monastery to obtain further information on the Bonbos and their religion. I mys...

10. CHAPTER X.

On November 30, 1882, I said farewell to Tashilhunpo, and, accompanied by Phurchung and Gopon, my recent guide to Samye, I started for Sakya, from which place I proposed returni...

11. CHAPTER XI.

In Tibet there are three distinct classes among the people, lay and clerical, which are determined by birth and social position, and each of these has three sub-divisions. [425]...