Part 9

The men returned in the afternoon with about thirty nice fish, which were at once consigned to the oven, and in the evening the feast was spread here in front of my house, and the whole village assembled to partake. Grace was said, and the huge quantities of food distributed, and eaten with very evident relish. Postprandial grace having been said, the company dispersed, and soon all the festal remnants, too, disappeared. The evening was one of the most glorious I have ever seen, and I sat outside my house for a long time talking with the people. Many were prevented attending by reason of sickness, and our numbers at Prayers and school were not so full as usual. After school a dance was proposed, but did not come off. Instead thereof, a few of the men came and serenaded me, very quietly and softly, and much more in consonance with my feelings than the noisy songs and clappings of the dance. It was one of those nights in which it was a “shame to go to bed,” but tired nature seeks repose, and soon the village was sunk in silent slumber.

_Wednesday, September 8th._--Another most glorious morning followed by a very hot and ennervating day. After our morning duties here, public and private, I went with some of the boys to Ruosi. It was very pleasant there by the water side, and one got a perfect freedom from the blue bottles, which invaded my house in such numbers, this morning, that I had to retire. The discomfort of these loathsome creatures is excessive, and one gets away from them as far as possible. Not having had a washing day for some days, I made one to-day, and myself turned washerwoman. The one idea of natives with respect to clothes washing, is to pile on the soap agony, and leave your garments as stiff as a board, and almost as uncomfortable to wear. I entrusted a pair of white flannel trowsers, and a white flannel coat to one of the boys to wash, but I tremble to think what the result will be. On our way homeward we were stopped by loud “cooes” from the rear rank, and Patrick came running forward to say “They are here.” Soon a white hat appeared, and I fancied at once it must be the “Southern Cross,” but wondered why she had come so quickly.

However, I was soon undeceived, and was greeted by Mr. Coates, Government Agent of the “Lord of the Isles” from Fiji. He was photographing the Falls, and the boys brought him on here. He was very amiable, and followed me on to the village. He took three views of different parts of the place, and after staying a short time returned again to the ship as night was rapidly approaching. It is so seldom that a white man ventures up here, that the sight of one is a seven days’ wonder. He came quite unarmed, and was evidently not frightened by the ferocity of our people. It is customary to look upon natives as naturally wild and ferocious, and few white men trust themselves among them without arms. However, of course we always go armed with a Power more protective than a Colt’s revolver, and we, I suppose, engender trust in the natives by trusting them.

The “Lord of the Isles” is a large ship of 300 tons, and has brought over two hundred natives from Fiji as returned labour.

Mr. Coates told me that the Conservative Government was in power with Lord R. Churchill as Premier, and that the English Government had sent an ultimatum to the French to withdraw their troops from the New Hebrides, or their action in sending them there would be looked upon as a breach of faith and an act of aggression. There will be troubles down here yet I fear, with all the shilly-shallying there is over the annexation of these islands. The French are evidently intending some forward step, for they have troops both in Havannah Harbour, and Port Sandwich (Mallicollo), and the Nouvelles-Hebrides Company are buying land right and left all over these islands. It would not be pleasant to find myself a prisoner in France instead of a free man in England, and I hope there may be no fear of such a criterion.

Our evening duties as usual ended with singing.

_Thursday, September 9th._--Another most glorious morning, and a bright warm day. My home duties kept me here till far on in the day, when I joined a large picnic party at Ruosi. Certainly these natives take life easily, and in their own way get a good deal of enjoyment out of it. They seem utterly devoid of that care and worry which kills so many of us, and certainly follow the Scripture injunction as to taking no anxious thought. Nature affords them all they want for their bodily comfort, and I trust religion supplies the rest. It is perfectly wonderful how far more merry and light hearted they are than their heathen neighbours, and I fondly hope the secret is within, such jolly, amiable, good-natured creatures they are, and so happy and friendly and harmonious among themselves. The sportsmen to the number of twelve or fifteen went off in search of wild fowl, or any other of the feathered tribe they might come across, the cooks setting to work to get the oven alight and start the cooking. Prawns were caught in abundance, and were eaten with roasted taro, as a sort of lunch, and green cocoanuts were secured as the refreshing beverage. It was an animated and picturesque scene, and in the evening the sportsmen returned with five fowls and one owl, an odd looking object, as the result of their day’s sport. These birds were soon consigned to the oven with the other food, and were partaken of in the evening. I came away beforehand and had my dinner here. It was a most gloriously still and beautiful evening and the native songs sung by the boys coming home, sounded very pretty in the distance. There seems to have been an exuberant joyous spirit about to-day, animating everyone, and never since I have been here, have I known so hearty and bright a service as we had this evening.

After school most of the boys and younger men went to “Unduna,” a _suburb_ of Tanrig, to a great dance, which is to be kept up till morning light. The occasion of it is the ‘nasu’ing of two gamals to-morrow, and nothing can be done without a dance. Arthur, who has neither the strength nor the inclination to go, has been keeping me company, and we have had some nice and profitable conversation. He has left me now, and in the stillness of the most glorious night, the song of the dancers breaks upon one’s ear, and makes one conscious that one is in the Melanesian Islands. Besides that one sound, nothing else is audible, and I myself am going to prepare for the quiet and rest of my humble couch.

_Saturday, September 11th._--Started this morning after breakfast for Tasmate by boat, and saw a vessel heading in for the watering place. This was the _Southern Cross_ from the islands, and before long she came to anchor and we were on board shaking hands. We were somewhat surprised to see the Bishop, but he was not well and was going for the change to Norfolk Island. None of the party on board looked very well, but they were going South and would soon feel the benefit of the colder weather. Mr. Turnbull came back with me and spent the night here. After service I held a consultation with the teachers as to Arthur’s going to Norfolk Island, and they were unanimous that he ought to go. A. P. Huqe offered to stay in his place. The vessel was much earlier than I expected her, but none too early. The news generally, very good.

There were five earthquake shocks to-day, one of which was very severe, felt equally on shore and at sea. The Captain fancied the ship was on a rock.

_Monday, September 13th._--Yesterday I spent at Tanrig. Mr. Turnbull slept the night with me, and spent the whole of Sunday. We had school in the early morning and after that, breakfast. Then followed Morning Prayer with a very large congregation. In the afternoon Mr. Comins, Mr. Plant, Mr. Brittain, the Captain, Engineer, and a large number of Melanesians came up to see the village and stayed to our social meal in the evening. They were all quite charmed with the people and the place, and enjoyed very much the pleasant walk. Mr. Turnbull took his departure, and Mr. Brittain spent the night with me. The party, with the exception of Mr. Comins, were not successful on the return journey and missing the track got into the taro gardens, and floundered about in the mud in the most helpless confusion. Not finding a way out of their difficulty they tried back, and hit happily upon the right track. This little episode threw somewhat of a damper upon the visit, and the party returned rather wet and crestfallen to the ship. Mr. Comins was accused of being the cause of the misfortune, and I believe those who fared worse than he heaped their approbrium on him when they got on board. The Bishop was not well, and we were all disappointed not to see him at our head quarters. Naturally, a visit from our Bishop is looked upon as a red letter day by our people, and if he cannot come the disappointment is very apparent. Mr. Brittain and I dined together and spent a most pleasant evening. It was a most glorious evening, and the calm peace of a cloudless sunset gave place to the most brilliant moonlight. We sat outside the house talking to the people until Prayer time. The service was a very impressive one, for I got Arthur to say a few words to his people before leaving them, and the thought of going away raised a great lump in his throat, and for some moments, although generally so ready and so eloquent, he could not say a word. Several times there was a tremble in his voice and he was nigh to breaking down, and his own undisguisable emotion produced a visible effect on his congregation. He said in the course of his remarks, that to-day they had seen a great concourse of people at their village, of many colours and nationalities. But though divided by race, differing in speech, and separated in locality, they were all one people with them, because through Christ they were all united in one, owning one God and Father of all, believing one Common Saviour, knit together by one Spirit, and professing one religion. Though so many and so various we were all one in Christ. And then he went on to speak of himself and them, still carrying on the same idea, and he said that although divided in bodily presence, unseen by the bodily eye, and separated by the wide ocean, they were still one in spirit and in heart. Oceans could not separate those whom God had joined together, and whether near or far they were still all one in Christ. And then almost overcome, he said it might be God’s will that they should never again see each others’ faces, but they must look forward to the great meeting time beyond the grave, where parting would again be unknown, and those whom Christ had joined together, and made one in Himself should be one for ever with Him and behold His glory. Because they were going to be separated it was no reason that they should forget each other, but day by day they should remember each other at the Throne of Grace, until such time as they should be reunited in this world, or if not, in the world to come. I followed with a few remarks, and a very impressive service concluded with the Blessing. After the service I called the teachers together to make final arrangements for our departure to-morrow, and Patrick was quite content to take charge of the school. I am very glad that he should, and I quite feel that the extra responsibility will be good for him.

Arthur Huqe will go with me to Opa for the change, and return again with me when the ship comes back from Norfolk Island. Two Maewo lads have expressed a wish to go with us to Opa, and I am very glad of any exchange of friendship between the two islands. It will do them good to see other places, and enlarge their minds and ideas to see other people beside themselves. Moreover, being with Arthur, a native of Opa, they will not feel so lonely as if going by themselves. They are two nice boys, and I hope they will profit by the little outing.

Mr. Brittain’s enthusiasm was quite cheering, and we were very late in getting to bed, being so busy talking over our mutual work, inasmuch as our district is one, and he knows the people here so well.

This morning we were astir very early, and after Prayers and breakfast were very busy getting ready for our departure. Many hands made light work, and soon our impedimenta were shouldered by willing bearers, and we were on our way for the Kerepei. We had a most pleasant walk down, Mr. Brittain most cheery and appreciative all the way, and we were all on board very soon after the stipulated time, 10 o’clock. We had a light wind to start with, but it soon fell calm, and the engineer’s services were called into requisition. It is very hot work steaming in these latitudes, and the cabin especially gets very stuffy. We anchored at Opa between five and six o’clock, and I got my things ready for the start ashore in daylight. Mr. Brittain and Mr. Turnbull came with me, and we visited the French Trader ashore, who was said to have the latest telegrams. We were quite astonished, not only at the polite manner in which we were received, but by the neat and tastey appearance of the little man’s premises and dwelling house. He is evidently a man of considerable genius, and far more energy than most of the Traders down in these parts.

His kitchen garden was a sight to behold, and although for three months he has had no rain he has an abundance of cabbages, carrots, onions, shalots, garlick, parsley, spinnach, lettuce, &c. The whole garden too is laid out in the most natty matter, showing wonderful care and perseverance. Inside his house it was equally neat, and the walls were decorated with an enormous number of island curiosities. During the slack time of the year when cocoanuts are scarce he makes very curious, but extremely chaste, ornaments out of shells, and sells them to Traders at about fifteen shillings the pair. He also makes sleeve links out of opercules, and many other ornaments of personal adornment. He gave us a great basket full of eggs, and some green food for the ship. We bade the amiable and loquacious little man good-bye, and thanked him for his kindness, and then pushed on for Tavalavola where we found the whole village waiting for us, and Charles and Monica heading the party. I was most pleased to see the happy and affectionate relations which existed between them, and the natural and unaffected way in which she came into my house, and the kind care she exhibited in the bestowal of my goods and chattels. Afterwards when we went off to the ship she came with us, and went down of her own accord to see the Bishop in the cabin. We did not stay long on board, but bidding farewell to them all we came ashore for the night. I should have liked of course to stay till morning, but they were so crowded on board I thought it was better we were out of the way. It was near midnight when we finally retired for the night, and I was very tired and glad to get to bed. The boys are so nice and friendly, and come in and out of my house so naturally, that it gives one quite a homely feeling, and when they call me “Mama” (Father) I feel quite proud of the spiritual relationship. I quite look forward to my stay here, and I hope under it God may be the means of much good.

_Tuesday, September 14th._--Most beautiful morning, but the night was very cold, and I was very glad of a blanket over me. We had Prayers and school before breakfast, the scholars numbering about 50 of both sexes. I was quite astonished at the admirable way most of them read and answered, and equally struck with the diligent and painstaking manner in which the boys were teaching. The school is admirably conducted, and peculiarly well and thoroughly taught. The scholars are evidently very sharp, and one or two little boys and a very little wee girl read surprisingly well. Charles, the head teacher, is a most steady and excellent young fellow, and to him the credit of the efficiency of the school is mainly due. All the other boys however, work well and steadily with him, and I was particularly gratified to see what a helpmeet his wife Monica is to him. In the course of the day the older people were about, and I told them I wanted them to come and get instruction also, to which they consented. While I was at breakfast the French Trader called on me and brought me a most noble present of green food, for which I was deeply grateful. He was very amiable, most polite and peculiarly loquacious, and I was quite interested in listening to his broken English. He is a Parisian and was in the ‘garde mobile’ during the siege by the Prussians, which of course means that he is a Communist. He left me after a time, and I set to work to put my house in order. The boys went to ‘Tahi mamavi,’ where we have a school, which I hope we shall be able now to teach regularly. Meramaeto (Paskal) had been there living, but some trouble broke out and he had to come away in consequence. Now all is pacific again, and we hope to make another fresh and vigorous start, which I hope will be permanent. In the afternoon I went to see a Trader who had sent me a request to visit him, not having a boat of his own. His complaint was, that having a Frenchman on either side of him, and he doing a better trade than either they were jealous of him, and had threatened him with violence if he did not leave. He is a Scotchman and a very decent fellow. The Frenchmen had threatened also to lay hands on his copra, looking on him as an interloper, inasmuch as they suppose the French are about to annex the New Hebrides group. I did all I could to explain his position to the natives, and ‘Tabi’ the chief, and really a big man, said that while he dealt fairly with them he would see that he was properly protected and fairly dealt with. I told him that he and I were subjects of one Queen, and of a different nationality to the Frenchmen, and that being a steady and well-behaved and honest man he ought to help him all he could. He had a great many nuts, and a large amount of copra, and I should say he was doing very well. He does not trade with powder, or guns, or spirit, and is evidently a very temperate man. He asked me to tell the natives not to bring the coconuts on Sunday as he wanted that as a day of Rest, and he asked me if I could make it convenient to come and see him sometimes on that day, because he wished not to forget his God in the midst of his mundane pursuits. He has been a sailor all his life, and has a mate’s certificate, I think. He has only been here five weeks from Sydney, and hitherto has done very well. I got back to dinner, and then went to see David, one of our teachers, who is sick. He was very full of his child, about three years old, a perfect prodigy. He told me the child would get into a perfect frenzy if he were not allowed to go to school and Prayers, and when once or twice he has been left at home he has knelt down in their house and gone through the form of prayer by himself. He will never go without his clothes, and the only time they can get him to take them off is to bathe. Even at night he must have on a garment. His mother told me too that his first thought in the morning, even before eating, was the bell, and he would tug at her sleeve until she took him up and started for the school. The same was the case too, in the evening. They also told me of a poor girl who had died about a fortnight ago. She has been most regular at school for years past, and was far away ahead of all the others in knowledge. She never would marry because she was afraid she should be debarred from attending school. She was most anxious to be Baptized, and when she was taken ill she still longed for Baptism. She importuned Charles so on the subject that just before her death, he sprinkled her with water in the Name of the Trinity, and signed the sign of the Cross on her forehead. She died perfectly happy and at peace, and her devoted life and peaceful death have produced a great and profound impression in the village.

While talking with David, his old grandmother came in, and she is a woman of great age, and marvellous energy. She is now a great grandmother, and a bright, cheery old lady. I asked her how old she thought she was, and she said she really did not know, but she was very aged. She said that I had always told her that she “tugi vetu” (was as hard as flint) and it seemed as if she really was. She comes regularly to school, but her eyes are so dim that she can only sit and listen. Several old ladies attend school only to sit and listen, and they take great interest in coming. In the evening we had Prayers, and a very nice school afterwards.

So ends my first day, and I hope all the other days I am here may be as pleasant and as happy.

_Wednesday, September 15th._--A beautiful morning but a strong Trade wind blowing. After our morning duties here we sailed down to ‘Lobaha’ to see Arudale, Didi and the school there. We pulled the boat up on the beach, no very easy work with the sand so soft. Most of the boys were down at the beach and we all went up together to the village. It was a hot, steep climb and we were very liquid when we got there. The boys brought us a plentiful supply of young coconuts and with these we quenched our thirst. I was glad to see the amiability which was manifested one towards another by our people and the Lobaha folks, for lately the relations have been somewhat strained.