Part 8

_Sunday, August 22nd._--A most glorious Sabbath morning. We had school before breakfast, both because it was cooler and also on account of the blue bottle flies, which become very troublesome in the heat of the day, where people are congregated together. Before our school duties were over, they became very numerous, and I was not sorry to get back to the refuge and quiet of my own house. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice service, but not rendered more solemn by the presence, in crowds, of those disgusting pests, the flies. However, they are an inevitable worry, from which there seems no chance of escape. After Prayers I went to the Unduna villages, and talked to the few people I found there. They were keeping Sunday, they said, i.e. they were doing no work and were generally idling. I asked why they did not come to Church as formerly, and they said it was too far. I asked why then did not they build a school there, and I would be responsible for the teaching in it. They so far assented as to say that they would see about it, when they had got through with their yam planting. There is a nice little population there, and I have always had it on my conscience that nothing practical or definite had been done for them. Natives do not care to go to the trouble of a few yards more or less for religion, so I suppose the alternative is that religion must go to them. One very nice man called “Vangoro,” was most energetic about the building, in promising to get it done and helping all he could, he is a leading man there too, and I hope my desire will be accomplished.

It was very hot coming back, and I was in a liquid state when I got home. The evening was deliriously cool and fine, and I enjoyed it outside my house with several of the people.

Evensong was a very nice quiet service, and I preached on the subject of the Collect (9th Sunday after Trinity), the “spirit to think and do always such things as were rightful.” I hope I got intelligent attention. We had some nice singing afterwards, and the people went very quietly home.

_Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday._--Blank days.

On Monday there were great festivities here, and a dance till morning. I began to feel ill in the evening, and spent a most wretched night. On Tuesday I was unwell all day, and could do nothing. On Wednesday I was fearfully ill all day with a severe attack of fever and ague, and lay down under all the wraps I could secure, until the hot fit came on with a very severe headache. In the evening the boys surprised me by saying there was a white man outside, and I was glad to welcome Mr. Blackburne, Government agent of the Sybil, from Queensland. The vessel anchored at the watering place, and the boys told him “Missionary he plenty sick.” He therefore very kindly came up and spent the night with me. He has just left me now, and I have not strength to go with him to the ship. However, I am better to-day, and hope after a big dose of Quinine he has given me, that I shall be better.

_Tuesday, August 31st._--I have wasted a whole week, and only to-day feel equal to doing anything or going anywhere. To-day for the first time for a week, I have moved out of the village boundaries, and have been to the river with the boys and bathed.

It has been a sickly time here all together, and many besides myself have been laid by. It is bearably pleasant to be pent up day by day within doors when feeling well, but almost unbearably so when one feels ill and out of sorts. However, I trust it is all over now, please God, and I must endeavour to make up for lost time. Several of the people, Arthur included, have been quite ill through eating a certain eel, caught somewhere in the sea and very poisonous. They all detected the burning, stinging sensation on their lips, tongue and palate as soon as they had eaten it, but fancied it was the taro. From that time till the end of the week, they have been all laid up, and one or two have been very bad indeed. They have experienced not only burning, sharp pains internally, and pricking, poignant stabbing pains in the palms of the hands and soles of the feet, but have suffered a great deal also from strong and utter prostration with an abhorrent distaste for food. Several others were warned betimes from partaking, or the poisoning might have been more general. This particular eel was caught by a heathen on a Sunday, and therefore its peculiarly deleterious and poisonous qualities have been traced by the more virtuous to that fact, of which no cognizance was taken before it was cooked and eaten, nor would have been afterwards, but for its effects. The really admitted fact, however, I believe, is that certain fish caught at certain parts of the beach at particular seasons of the year, have all a more or less poisonous effect on those who eat them. The people themselves say it is the feed they find there which makes them poisonous, but it may be inherent in the nature of the particular fish. I remember on many occasions on board the _Southern Cross_, the natives looking askance at some very tempting looking fish which had been caught, and pronouncing them dangerous to eat. On one very memorable occasion, when dinner was over, one of the senior boys being cook, and one of the most poisonous of fish having been served and partaken of by all, this youth without a change of feature saying to some remark that was passed, “Oh! Yes, we die in our country if we eat that fish.” This was reassuring after what had passed, and we eyed one another with wistful and anxious faces, thinking whether or not perchance our end may have been hastened by our wilful inadvertence in thus partaking of deadly poison. But we neither swelled, nor fell down dead, and felt no ill effects. Many a time, too, since, I have eaten the same fish with the like happy and successful result. This particular kind of eel, however, has played the same _post mortem_ tricks before, and taken his revenge for wrongs received before going into the oven. The people tell me that those who have eaten, have become like mummies, their hair and skin have changed to a ghastly leaden hue, and have fallen off like a snake’s skin. How far this is true or fable, I know not, but it may be partially credible. Nothing of the sort has happened fortunately, at this present crisis, and the sufferers are about again.

A dull, dark evening ushered in a blustery, rough night, and the coughs and sneezings and other demonstrative sounds peculiar to people who do not carry pocket handkerchiefs, bore testimony to the fact of an epidemic catarrh, contracted during a very inclement week. Like the Norfolk Islanders, they look for the source of such things in the world without, and accuse my friend Mr. Blackburne of having brought it here, all the way from Queensland. In what part of his luggage he secreted so desirable a communication I know not, but they are decidedly of opinion that he it was who ‘gave them’ the cold, and they were unwise enough to ‘catch it’ from him. He ‘had’ the cold, they said, when he came here, and certainly said I, I believe he took it away again. However, as colds are catching, I suppose they must be left content with their belief, and to ‘bless him,’ I hope, every time they sneeze.

_Wednesday, September 1st._--Another full month past and gone, and leaving I fear, but a poor memory of much good done behind it. The days here certainly fly past one after another in rapid flight, and the very monotony of existence speeds their departure. One day is so like another that it passes unmarkedly by, and one finds oneself, all at once, at the end of the week, and is brought to final consciousness of the rapid rotation of time’s wheels at the end of the month. What has been done in the month? I fear there is but a poor record. God grant that I myself may have, by His Grace, made one step forward, and have been instrumental in leading others also onward to a higher and better life, and to that final epoch where the flight of time is unmarked by days and weeks and months and years, for time itself will be swallowed up in eternity.

Nothing much happened to-day. A bright morning seemed likely to usher in a fine and brilliant day, but in the forenoon the rain pelted down, and for some hours we had a glorious downpour. The “blue bottles” gave indication of this at Prayers and morning school, and I have never known them in such numbers or so troublesome. One perfectly loathed oneself, but escape from them was impossible, they crowded my house, which is generally free from their incursions, and the poor people seemed quite distracted. This is the great yam planting season, and everyone was away after school busy at his garden. The heavy rain, however, drove them home, and some took refuge here with me. Natives are not great hands for introducing originality into their conversation, nor do they go much beyond the sight of their eyes, or the hearing of their ears for their subject matter. Any prominent object which attracts their attention is made the subject of remark. This is a specimen of the sort of conversation which goes on. I was writing when my friends came in, “Oh! you are writing!” “Yes, what else did you suppose I should be doing with pen, ink and paper?” “Oh! this is a curious tin, what is in it? Meat?” “You are the 101st person who has asked that self-same question, I answered the 100 before you with the monosyllabic negative, No, and I give you the same answer.” “What then is in it? Fish?” “No.” “Fruit?” “Yes, I hope you are satisfied.” “Oh! I see you have a “kove” (native flute) up there in the thatch, who gave it you?” “You yourself have asked that same question ten times before, and I have always given the same answer, ‘Arthur,’ next time perhaps you will know without asking.” “You have a bow and arrow there, where did you get them?” “Considering that every person in the village knows from whence they came, and has made them the subject of general conversation for weeks, I wonder you should be the only person ignorant of their origin, especially as you were here when I brought them from Tasmouri.” This is the style of thing which goes on, and except that one is glad to accede to any means for introducing conversation, one would soon weary of it. They themselves do not seem to mind going over and over again the same conversation, and wading through the same minutiæ of detail, and they expect one to be equally patient. The rain gave me a good opportunity of planting my new fence, and I planted, as a start, a number of oranges around my house. The evening was fine, and the moon already quite sizeable. We had the usual singing school after Prayers, with very good success. When the practice was over, I asked the older men to sing some of their own songs, and they readily complied. Old blind Daniel is the great leader, and knows all the songs. There are three parts to the native song, (1) the person who starts and sings the air as in a Gregorian tone, and then follows (2) a chorus, then (3) a single voice takes up the air again, and this is followed by the chorus. The first singer is said to “tau” the song, the second to “sawu,” and the chorus to “lai.” The songs are very pretty, and they kept them up with spirit for quite an hour. Some of the singers beat a weird kind of accompaniment with bamboos, and kept most excellent time. When the performance was over, it was time to retire, and soon quietness warned me that it was time for me, too, to be going to rest.

_Thursday, September 2nd._--How the days seem to chase one another in ever too hasty flight! It seems no sooner morning than the night is here again. We tried the experiment to-day of having prayers even earlier than usual, to be rid of the noxious blue bottles, but only partially succeeded in anything like freedom from them. At the school subsequently they were more troublesome, I think, than ever, and it was not an easy matter to keep one’s own or one’s pupils’ attention, with these hideous creatures buzzing about. After Prayers and school one is fairly ready for breakfast, and by the time that is over the day has already worn on towards Noon.

It is the commencement of planting time now, and the people are very busy day after day in their yam gardens preparing the soil. It is by no means easy work, and they certainly make a very good show by the end of the day.

I always like to get out somewhere if I can every day, for I find my health is better for the constant out-door exercise. This morning the people were all going shrimping, and I accepted an invitation to go with them to a place called ‘Niewotu.’ I had never been there before, and I was charmed with the picturesque beauty of it. A clear, flowing river is utilized for the purpose of irrigation, and there one saw again the quaint little taro beds so deftly laid out, and the showy crotons and dracænas ornamenting the immediate view, while all round the bush was thickly matted with innumerable, and almost impenetrable creepers with masses of white and pink flowers. In the direct foreground one got a peep of the bright blue sea sparkling in the midday heat. A bathe, and green cocoanuts were very agreeable and most refreshing. The boon of abundance of water in these hot countries is inestimable, and this island is rich in its water supply. Araga again on the other hand is very badly off, and Opa not much better.

Evening duties as usual, and some hymn singing afterwards.

_Saturday, September 4th._--After Prayers and breakfast, the boys and I started for a long meditated journey up the coast. It was a most glorious day, but very hot, the sun scorching down with pitiless heat. We embarked at Kerepei, sixteen of us all told, and rowed away against the Trade wind which was blowing strong down the coast. We were a merry party, and the shore view was very beautiful as we coasted along. From the point of embarkation to Tanrowo, a distance of eight or ten miles, there is not a single “salt water” native, and it seems a great pity to see so much valuable land lying fallow, when it might be utilised for almost any purpose. As we rounded the Point between us and Tanrowo, called “Vaturowa,” we saw a vessel at anchor in the distance. The heat on the water was intense, and I felt myself being scorched about the face and hands. The natives, hatless and clotheless, did not seem to mind it, and their exuberant spirits were proof against almost any outer evil. We saw some people along the coast, and conversed with them at several places. Arriving at “Beitarara,” we saw a number of people we knew. We of course asked about the “schooner” at anchor, and they said they did not know what she was, as she had only just a short time before come to her anchorage. However, the boat painted red was coming towards us, and soon we were within speaking distance. I asked where she was from, and what was her errand. As they came close to us, I heard my name called, and found myself shaking hands with Captain Martin of the schooner “Idaho” from Noumea. I met him years ago when he was in charge of the “John S. Lane,” Captain McCleod owner, and he very kindly then towed me across from Opa to Pentecost Island. He seemed very glad to see me, and invited me on board. He now belongs to the “Nouvelles Hebrides” Company, and was recruiting labour for “Port Sandwich” in Mallicollo. The Company had bought land here at “Beitarara,” and he just dropped in to see the people. He was very kind and amiable, and I spent some time on board, and made some purchases.

The boat then started for our destination, where we found many amiable, friendly people awaiting us, and although they had sold their land, they had very hazy notions as to how much had been purchased, or what was to be done with it. After spending some time with them, we gave them some presents, and then found it was time to be getting homeward. A strong favourable breeze took us rapidly to the Kerepei. Arriving at “Ruosi,” we found a large number of our people awaiting us, with a smoking hot supper they had cooked for us there. We arrived here tired and sunburnt just before dark. Evensong followed, and a singing practice for Sunday.

_Sunday, September 5th._--School very early on account of the blue bottles. I took all the old men into the Church and talked to them there. They paid good attention, and I hope remembered something of what they were taught. I tried to explain how God declared His Almighty Power most chiefly in showing mercy and pity. There were times when He revealed Himself as a consuming fire, but that was in His attitude towards sin, but the whole being and essence of God was love. After breakfast I started with Patrick for “Mandurvat” by way of “Naruru.” Anthony had already had Morning Prayer, so I did not stay long there, but pushed on for my destination. It was very hot walking, and I was very liquid when I arrived at Mandurvat. Sunday travelling here is much more tiring than week-day work, for you are obliged to respect the day a little, as regards the clothing you wear. I had not a very large congregation, and when service was over I asked the reason. The people then told me that a certain man called “Ala” had “tabu’d” (_i.e._ made sacred) the school, and prevented the people of his village from attending service. I protested against this, and when I had said my say, the plucky young teacher “Tarione” at once went to the village, and broke the “tabu,” rendering himself liable to a fine of pigs or perhaps a knock on the head. “Ala” was not at home or I would have gone to see him. However, I believe Tarione did all I could do, and perhaps more. I was very much pleased with the way some of the scholars had been taught, and two females especially, took me quite by surprise. These people have no baptized teacher, and the efficiency of the school is entirely owing to the exertion and perseverance of two young men, Tarione aforementioned and “Livotari.” The latter requested Baptism for himself, wife and child, and Tarione has previously expressed the same wish. Now that the tabu is taken off, or at least broken, no doubt the scholars will increase, but it reflects great credit on these young fellows that they have built the school themselves, taught themselves to read, and do their best to teach their people. They are a most friendly, good-natured people, and act up to their limited light and knowledge. They have prayers and school every day, and this is very wonderful, when one considers the few advantages they have had. “Masa,” the leading man of the district, was present at the service, and was very enthusiastic in the after conversation. They gave us a sumptuous luncheon of various kinds of “loko,” and we started for Tanrig when the sun’s rays began somewhat to decline. At “Naruru” we stopped some time, and I addressed the people. Anthony afterwards came on with me to Tanrig. Here, in the evening, I preached on the subject of the Gospel, the Pharisee and the Publican, and tried to adduce some healthful lessons from the parable. We were somewhat inclined by nature to think more highly of ourselves than we ought to think, and not to be sober and humble in our self consideration. Because we attended service regularly, and were very accurate in our daily lives, we were apt to despise others around us, who were not so exact, and were still living heathen lives. When we came before God, our thought ought not to be of our own worthiness or goodness in His sight, still less of the depravity and wickedness of others, but our attitude and our language should be that of our own utter unworthiness and sinfulness, we should imitate the action and adopt the words of the Publican rather than that of the Pharisee, and smite our breasts and say, “God be merciful to me a sinner.” What we sought from all our services was to go down to our houses justified, and the only road to justification and righteousness was humility. That was the only road for white and black people alike, for teacher and taught, for Priest and people. How many of us would be justified that night? How many of us were growing day by day in grace, and in the knowledge of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ?

_Monday, September 6th._--Captain Martin had kindly offered to tow me and my boat’s crew across to Opa if I could manage to be ready. He would come down and anchor at Kerepei, and fire a gun as a signal for me. The gun went, but I was not ready, and after breakfast I went down to tell him so. Being a French ship they kept French hours, and I found a second breakfast awaiting me on board. Twelve people had recruited at Tanrowo, and all had been bought with snider rifles, and plenty of ammunition. French and English recruiting laws are very different. Vessels from Queensland and Fiji are not allowed to give guns or ammunition to the natives, but the French do just as they like. While I was on board, another silly female was recruited. In one of her humours she had run away from her husband, and had come a distance of twelve or fifteen miles, to be engaged for three years as the slave and tool of some depraved Frenchman on one of the island stations. I could say nothing, although I knew the result of the embarkation. However, the Captain promised me that he would call again at the place, and see the woman’s friends, and if they consented to her going, he would keep her and pay for her, but if not, she should be put on shore again. How far or how truly he will carry out his promise I do not know, but he is a tender hearted and, I think, an upright man in his dealings with the natives. As soon as I was ashore, he lifted his anchor and went up the coast, but I have not yet heard what he did. He was very kind to our boys, and gave them several tins of meat and biscuits. We made a fire at Ruosi, and there they cooked their dinner, while after a bathe I came home. In the evening it rained very hard, and just before the bell went for Prayers, our congregation was therefore not so large as usual, and our numbers thinner at school. I was very tired, and went early to bed.

_Wednesday, September 7th._--Very heavy rain during the night succeeded this morning by a northerly wind, and a hot, close, oppressive day. I have not felt it so warm since I have been here, and I was glad that my duties kept me at home, and mostly in doors all the day. Nothing here seems possible to be done without a feast and a dance, and all work was postponed to-day to do my new fence the honour of having a supper prepared for it. Any excuse for eating and dancing. The women were kept busy at the ovens cooking, and the men away at the seaside endeavouring to get a meal of fish, seemingly the choicest compliment possible to be paid to the exterior decoration of my house. The fence making certainly was a most laborious business, and the result, if not strikingly beautiful, has the advantage of being strong and durable, and hitherto pig-proof.