Part 2

At 11 o’clock we had service in Mota, at which we had the attendance of all the Melanesians of both sexes in the ship, and a very hearty, cheering service it was. I reserved my address to them for the evening and before noon our religious duties for the morning were over. We dined at 1 o’clock and in the afternoon Mr. Turnbull and myself went ashore. This was his first experience in these islands and he was duly impressed with the natural beauty everywhere apparent, and the good nature of the people. It was nearly high water when we went in over the reef, and the clearness of the sea, the beauty of the coral bed, the dear little blue and vari-coloured fish which flitted about produced their due effect on him. The white beach, too, with its background of most luxuriant green rising from the base and clothing in marvellous profusion the tops of the hills greatly delighted him. The climb up the hill somewhat dispelled the fancy, but one could well imagine oneself in some semi-fairy land so strangely beautiful as it all looked. We were in a very liquid state when we reached the school about three quarters of a mile up the hill, and green cocoanuts were very acceptable. Here we found in the midst of all the loveliness a poor little child dying amid squalor and destitution. The poor young mother was sitting over it and crying her heart out. Her son had been buried the day before and there seemed not a particle of hope for the elder sister. I said what I could to comfort the mother, but it was too late to do anything for the child. The father with a third child was walking up and down disconsolately outside. The sight had its effect on me, for the father bears the honoured name of my great friend Bishop Key of Kaffraria, the mother bears my wife’s name, and the little dying one the name of my own daughter, the boy too who died the day before was called “Bailey” a cognomen revered by all Augustinians as the name of its late Warden.

Poor things! May God give them all the comfort of His grace, the only balm for a troubled and afflicted soul.

We walked about the village for a time and everything being utterly new and strange to Mr. Turnbull he was very much charmed. We visited old Sarawia who was once, and I dare say now is, the chief man in the place. He still looks much the same as ever but professed himself to be failing in health, and suffering from a sort of paralysis in his left leg. It does not seem however as if he intended to die just yet for he has lately taken two or three additional wives. We also saw the great wind and rain maker, but he said he had given up the trade now, and came to school regularly. Formerly he used to derive a good income from it I believe.

The houses and gamals (men’s quarters) here are most squalid and wretched, but the people seem content, and don’t trouble themselves much about their habitations, but what they shall eat or drink is a prominent consideration in all their minds. Their great treasures here are pigs and mats, and a man’s wealth and standing is measured by his possession in these. After proceeding through various grades if a man can kill one hundred pigs at a feast he is looked upon as a man of importance and his name is handed down to posterity as a great man, and I believe by that means his fare is prepaid to the realms of the Blest. The reverse I believe obtains with those who possess no treasures and kill no pigs. Everyone therefore in the interval between his advent into this world and his departure from it, endeavours to slaughter according to custom one pig or more, or the consequences will be terrible if not here at least hereafter.

This is a cheap way at all events of purchasing blessedness and no wonder they are eager with the small price for it. A fighting man formerly was looked upon as having more claim to their Walhalla than a man who refused or who had failed to take blood. This title certainly of late years has not been so eagerly coveted, and so far it is, thankworthy, but “when the wicked man turneth away from his wickedness and doeth that which is lawful and right he shall save his soul alive,” this last clause as yet is omitted from their programme.

On our way back I could not refrain from paying another visit to the dying child. There still sat the faithful mother, and there still lay her pretty child, life was not yet extinct, and she had turned since I saw her before. I determined when I got off to the ship to try and get some medicine as a sort of dernier resort. I doubt if medicine will ever more do any good. We got off to the ship before 5 p.m., and at that hour had tea, bread and sardines, and cake which the cook had concocted. The “Cabinetto” was going most of the evening, Brown having thoughtfully brought some sacred sheets for Sundays. At 7 p.m. we had Evensong in English and afterwards in Mota with an address on the Gospel, “Be ye therefore merciful,” “not only were we to ask mercy for ourselves I said, but we too must extend it to others, and we should find plenty of opportunity of doing so, in the places to which we were going. If we only felt for a moment the mercy of God towards us as revealed in Christ Jesus, we must be merciful to our fellows, and we must show them the same mercy we had experienced and known in our Saviour’s dealings with our own souls.”

We had great singing afterwards, which they always enjoy. It was most resplendent on deck afterwards, and one was thankful for the quiet and refreshment throughout of the day of rest.

_Monday, 19th July._--Mr. Brittain well enough this morning to go ashore to collect his things and make arrangements with his teachers. It is his intention if health permits to stay ashore in Mr. Palmer’s district at Mota and the Banks’ Islands, but in his present condition such a step would scarcely be wise. However, time will tell. While he was ashore Mr. Huggett, the mate, always ready to lend a helping hand, and myself put the teacher’s things together, and when he came off Mr. Brittain had nothing to do but give them out according as they had been deserved. Meanwhile there were crowds of people round about the ship, and much trading was carried on by the boys and girls on board. They use here canoes with outriggers, and the larger ones are very clumsy, unwieldy monsters. The Captain hates the sight of them alongside for they rub the paint off the ship, and sometimes even damage the copper. In the Solomon Islands they have no outriggers, and the natives are much more expert in the management of their canoes, both large and small.

Here at Araga they have a very large number of canoes, but they are very bad.

We weighed anchor at noon and stood across to Opa and were at anchor at Tavolavola by about 3.30 p.m.; a very nice breeze took us across, and on arrival there we made preparations for going ashore at once. I found matters satisfactory ashore, and the school in full swing, the young teachers all neatly and nicely dressed.

They were glad to have Charles back again and the women walked off with his pretty wife, dressed in all her bit of best. She had done a good deal of weeping between the ship and shore, evidently being very reluctant to leave her friends on board. Her eyes therefore were slightly tear bedyed, and her cheeks also, before she got ashore. The school looked cared for, and I was pleased to see a very nice new house built for me. The people were very glad to have me back and received me in their usually cordial fashion. An English Trader had built a house, and had resided some months near the village, but had lately taken his departure, why I know not, but I believe there was not trade enough.

There are a number of white men now trading all over the island, the mystery is how they can make it pay. Monica was very tearful again when I bid her good-bye, poor girl I dare say she will have a hard struggle at first among her own country women, but I trust she may have strength given her to resist the wiles of the Evil one and his agents among them. She is a pretty, flighty girl, but much improved of late, and became a great favourite on board. She has a most estimable husband and I hope she will make him a good helpmeet.

We passed a very pleasant night at the snug anchorage and all the boys came off to the ship next morning.

_Tuesday, 20th July._--We weighed anchor and dropped down to Lobaha, about four miles along the coast to the Westward. Here we found Herbert Arudale well. He came off to the ship with his wife Mary who was not well. They seem to live much happier now, and both were beaming over with smiles. He gives but a poor account of his work, which is much in _statu quo_. The fact is his field is very limited if he must confine himself to his own people, and it never suggests itself to a Melanesian to go farther a-field. The mountain must come to Mahomet, for Mahomet never dreams of going to the mountain. However, now with Didi and his wife, a most exemplary pair, and seemingly very devoted, they ought to make a fresh start. Baitagaro I saw ashore and he seems to have improved, but it must be heart breaking work to labour on year after year, and get little or no attention to what you say, no appreciation of the message you bring, and no interest taken in all you endeavour to do. However, it is what the Man of Sorrows passed through, and it is what His true followers have to experience also.

Here we almost filled the ship with fruit, especially a kind ardently longed for by the Norfolk Islanders, which they call the Vee apple, but which the Opa people term “Uhi.” Some very sweet oranges too were offered for sale, and the ship looked like a fruit market.

We hoisted our anchor before noon and stood across to Maewo where we anchored in the evening. No one being down on the beach, I started off Arthur Huqe and Duwu to Tanrig to tell the people to come down in the morning.

The village is three or four miles from the watering place and except the ship is there, the Tanrigese seldom come down to this beach, the sea being nearer on the other side of the island. Mr. Turnbull and I with some of the boys went in and had a most delicious bath, after so many days privation all the nicer. The river we found very full and the rush very great, but the water was most beautifully cool and refreshing. This now is the chief and best watering place in the islands, and the water itself is most excellent. Late in the evening a boy arrived who had rowed a long distance in his canoe, and he gave us the news, which was good on the whole. He told me again the tragic story enacted at [¨N]adui, a village not far from the watering place. One Vulatewa was a reputed disease-maker, and he resided there. Lately there had been a great mortality at Maewo, and especially among the still heathen people of Tanrowo, a coastal district bordering on [¨N]adui. The great man, Melkalano’s son died and his brother and many others, and Vulatewa insisted that he had made the sickness, and would kill many more except he were propitiated. However, propitiation by the gift of pigs or money was not in Melkalano’s line, and collecting his followers he made a raid on poor Vulatewa and killed him and two others, cutting them into small pieces, and leaving them as they were killed.

They then drove out the other inhabitants, or rather fear had already lent them wings for flight, and destroyed the village. The poor people left everything they possessed behind, and took refuge in all directions among their friends. The people at the next village, where there was a flourishing school, took fright also, and cleared out of their homes leaving a fine handsome school-house and a new church almost finished. The boy added that as soon as Vulatewa was dead the sickness was stayed. We did no watering this evening as the tide did not suit. After a very quiet night at anchor on

_Wednesday, 21st July._--We started watering ship. This is a busy process and keeps everyone on board well employed. Two large canvas tanks are fitted into each boat, and fastened underneath the thwarts. Into these the water is poured from buckets until both are full, a suction pump and hose on board empties these canvas tanks into iron receptacles under the floor of the schoolroom, and one boatload fills about a tank and a half. Seven or eight loads of water therefore finished the watering to-day. When everything was finished, the boys and girls went ashore to wash their clothes and bathe, and this day here is always looked forward to. The people came down from Tanrig in the morning, and I was busy packing up my things. After lunch I went ashore and started away the bearers with my belongings. How they managed to carry all the heavy boxes and a big harmonium up the hill and on for three or four miles, I don’t know, but they did it, and did not think much of it. I went on board again, and thanks to the Captain’s kindness, I got the loan of one of the ship’s boats, my own having been stolen by a labour ship last year. After an early dinner, escorted by Arthur, &c., I left for Tanrig. It was just getting dusk when I arrived, and I had no time to put anything straight. We had Evensong, and after that I prepared for bed. The mosquitos were somewhat numerous, but it was too late to get out my net, and so I put up with their music, and soon was oblivious of their singing or teasing. It seems quite natural to be here again, and as is usual the place has not changed at all. The boys however, have built me a beautiful new house, and I shall live in great comfort. I miss several faces too from the congregation, whom death has removed.

_Thursday, 22nd July._--I left the _Southern Cross_ last night expecting to get away early this morning, which I suppose she did. However I am so far away from the sea, that I have no means of knowing what she did. Naturally too, I was very busy this first day ashore. The first business after Morning Prayer, was to start off Samuel and the Tasmouri contingent who had spent the night here. They had a good many things to receive, but they got away in time to reach home before night. There were numbers of other things to be done also, such as putting the new window in the Church, unpacking the harmonium, making a platform for it, &c. The old mode of life seems to come back wonderfully naturally to me. Breakfast of rice, with sugar and cocoanut milk, and afterwards a cup of delicious Norfolk Island coffee, for which delicacy I am indebted to my kind friends Mr. and Mrs. Fletcher Nobbs. My midday meal is a bit of biscuit or roasted yam, and I reserve myself for the great meal of the day in the evening, not sumptuous but amply sufficient, fried rasher of bacon, fried taro pancake, and most excellent potatoes, for which I am indebted to Mr. Alfred Nobbs at Norfolk Island. After this I have a cup of milkless tea, which I brew in that charming teapot sent me from China by Dr. Codrington. They say ‘enough is as good as a feast,’ and I suppose this is why I am perfectly satisfied with this rough meal. After dinner I have nothing again till next morning.

_Friday, 23rd July._--A most superb morning, and the place looks very charming early in the day and in the evening, at midday there is a strong glare and it is almost too dazzling. The church looks most picturesque and pretty, nestling in a perfect forest of bright coloured shrubs, among which are many European representatives, _e.g._ the Poinsettia, the Geranium, Marvel of Peru, and others imported from Norfolk Island. Arthur certainly has expended great pains and taste in the plantation, and it amply rewards him. Outside the stone fence is an orange grove, the dark green of which stands out in bold relief against the bright colours within. The church is still in a good state of preservation and will last for some time yet. It is getting inconveniently small however, and will soon want enlarging. It bears evident signs of being made good use of, and they tell me the congregation morning and evening is never short of 50 or 60. In a very short time I hope this will be a purely Christian village, and that not only in name, but in deed and in truth. I see considerable change here since I left in the number of the new houses, and the care of the town, for such it now has a right to be called. Before long the Church will be the centre of a number of private residences, and the people begin to build better houses. Arthur has constructed his like mine with high walls caned all round, and made it very comfortable.

Except the ground floor my house is quite as nice as a one roomed boarded house. The school and church are almost contiguous, and both are strong, substantial buildings. There are at present 80 names of scholars on the books, and these are regular attendants. I hope before I leave, please God, to see that number augmented. At present we are strong in teachers, with the two Arthurs, Patrick, Harry, Duwu, Tilegi, Kate and Agnes. This morning after service, a shortened form of Mattins with a hymn, we had school, and I hope progress has been made. I was pleased to hear the teachers questioning their classes on the subject about which they had been reading. The perseverance of the old men in puzzling out the dreary sheets is perfectly astonishing, but they will not be denied. They have, however, learnt much by heart, e.g. Lord’s Prayer, Creed, Te Deum, &c. The women are quite as persevering, if not more so, and I don’t like to damp their ardour by forbidding them to try and learn to read. The first class of girls are far away ahead of the boys, and know a very great deal. These same girls used to sing very nicely, but they have got into the most disagreeable drawl, and so far from following a leader, they take the bit between their teeth, and sing as fancy dictates. This I shall try and remedy before I leave again. We have now a harmonium for our services, thanks to the very great kindness of my friend and benefactress in England, Miss Mount, who is far more beneficent than I at all deserve. The two Arthurs play very fairly well, but Arthur Huqe is organist at present. After school I had visitors from Golvanua, a populous district some ten or twelve miles from here. They are very peculiar people and very wild, I am sorry to say I have only been there once, and that only a flying visit. I told them I was coming again soon, and they seemed pleased. I gave the head man some tobacco, and he said when I came to their place he would give me food and take care of me. Our people here are rather terrified of them, and the distance is so great that very few have ever been there. There were two nice little boys with them, and I asked them if they were not tired, but they scouted the idea.

I was so busy all day that I did not get away from home, and things begin to be a bit more ship-shape. I begin to feel very comfortable in my new house, but I dare say if my friends saw me, they would fancy it was far from comfort. However, I have a continual feast in a contented mind. In the evening, instead of school, we had singing, into which I endeavoured to infuse some life and harmony, and partially succeeded, but not to my taste quite yet. Then in the evening I held a teacher’s class, and we had much profitable conversation.

_Saturday, 24th July._--This is observed by us as a whole holiday, and after Morning Prayer nothing is required of the school till the evening service. Arthur Aruduliwar decided to have his house thatched to-day, and a large party assembled to help him. Here they do everything by means of ‘Bees,’ (working parties). ‘Bees’ dig the gardens, plant the crops, dig the food, build the houses. The women do the cooking, and the owner of the house makes the feast, this is all he has to do, he is not supposed himself to do any work. Next week they are going to thatch a gamal, more stupendous work, and a great many people are going to be engaged, and there is to be much feasting, and I believe a dance. Marvellous harmony prevails in this community at present, and I never hear a harsh expression, nor witness a passionate action. They are the merriest, happiest, most contented people I ever saw, and I think the best natured. A party from Tasmouri appeared during the morning, and Thomas Aruloli among them. I asked him to stay the night, but he replied that it was his Sunday at Tasmate to-morrow, and he would not like to miss. I was pleased at this, for it showed the boy’s conscientiousness with respect to his self-imposed duty. I gave him his goods, and he and the others started again soon after for home. These natives don’t seem to know what fatigue is, and this double journey, which I should be sorry to undertake, they make nothing of it. After a frugal lunch the boys and I went to Ruos, where we bathed and washed our clothes. The river is certainly a boon and a blessing, and a good bathe has a most invigorating effect on one. In the evening the teachers came in and sat a long time with me, and we had much suitable conversation. While they were sitting here, a sound, which I had heard all day and couldn’t find the reason of, kept going on continually, and I asked Arthur what it was. He told me it was a bamboo placed high up on a top branch of a banyan tree in front of my house, in which notches were cut below each joint, and when the wind blew strong it sounded in the bamboo with the same effect that would be produced by so many persons blowing at once into the several orifices. This seemed to me very ingenious, but Arthur Huqe tells me they have the same practice at Opa. They say when the wind blows strong the sound is heard a great distance off, and I can quite imagine it.

We heard this evening the reports of two big guns in the direction of the watering place, so it is conjectured that a vessel is at anchor there. However it was too late to go and see.

_Sunday, 25th July._--First Sunday ashore at Maewo, and a very quiet and pleasant day it has been. I think too, it has been one of the most gloriously brilliant days I have ever seen. The morning was beautiful, the midday marvellously resplendent, and the evening indescribably lovely. The place did look so beautiful too. I told the people they ought never to cease praising God for so beautiful a heritage as He had given them. They have not a want or a care, but I fear they fail to appreciate the beauty, according to the truth of the old adage which speaks of familiarity breeding contempt. We had Sunday school very early, for two reasons more especially, (1) because it is cooler in the morning, (2) because we are not plagued with blowflies which appear in untold numbers wherever there is any congregation of people.

After a short interval devoted to breakfast, we had Mattins, and after this a short service and an address for the teachers. We had a very few strangers present to-day, but all our own people turned up. We did away with the great midday feast to-day for the first time for many years, but some of the women cooked a large quantity of food which was distributed to the boys in the usual way. This food business had become too laborious, and too much the chief part of the day, so that I fancied a relaxation for a time would be beneficial.

Patrick went to Mandurvat to take service there, but I stayed at Tanrig. At six different stations, school and service have been held and the day duly observed.

Evensong was a pleasant service here, and the church looked very nice lit up with the new lamps. The strains of the harmonium too, gave an additional pathos and homeliness to the occasion. I gave an address on the Gospel for 5th Sunday after Trinity, which I think was understood and appreciated. We had much singing afterwards and the public part of the day ended with the Blessing. May that blessing ever rest upon us here and elsewhere, and may we always endeavour to do all to God’s glory.