Part 11

I gave a short address afterwards, and was followed by Charles, who spoke well to the subject, and in very good taste considering the number of outsiders present.

We finished with the Nunc Dimittis, a fitting conclusion to a most beautiful service.

_Monday, September 27th._--A most beautiful day, and a whole holiday. I told the scholars in the morning that I wished to see only smiling and happy faces all day, and to hear of nothing but joy and gladness because of the occasion of the holiday, viz., to celebrate the spiritual birthday of twenty-five brothers and sisters. Food in large quantities was provided, and we managed to secure two pigs for the feast. I think it was the brightest and happiest day I have ever known here, and our festivities were shared in by a number of neighbours. Contrary to strict custom here, the women and girls of the school prepared the food under the trees on the beach, the boys chopping the wood and doing the heavy work. The scene was a very animated one, and all seemed to be in the very best of tempers. In the evening the ovens were opened, and the distribution of the food was made. Unfortunately I was not very well myself, but that did not interfere very much with the rest. In the cool of the evening the boys played a number of their native games, very pretty and very picturesque, with a pretty song to each. When darkness closed in we had Evensong, and then the happy day was brought to an end.

_Tuesday, September 28th._--This morning after our duties here, we started for a long voyage to “Vagebeo,” which means something like “down West.” “Beo” is the word used there for “down,” while ours here is “Hivo.” “Vage” is a particle put before the name of a place with a sense of motion towards the place, thus when we are going to Maewo we are here going “vage Maewo,” or Araga “vage Raga,” or Marino “vage Marino,” and so when we are going to the Beo people we are going “Vage Beo.” We call the people of those parts “Meraibeo.” They, on the other hand, term these parts “Taulu,” “up East,” and when coming here they say they are going “Vageulu,” because our word for “up” here is “Ulu.” We here are to them “Natiulu.”

We had a light, fair wind down, and did the journey in good time. We hauled up our boat at a place called “Duidui,” where a Mr. Wilber, commonly called “Jim” by white traders, and by the natives, “Timi,” lives.

He came down to welcome us, and extended his hospitality to me as long as I chose to stay. I was not sorry to accept it, and I made his residence the basis of my operations. He has been here for many years, and is well known and very much liked by the natives. He does a very extensive business there in copra (the dried coconut), &c., and deals very kindly, liberally, and most honourably with the people. He has very nice premises there, and a large establishment. He got us refreshments served as soon as we arrived, and after resting for a time he went with me to the village of the great man of those parts “A[¨n]ga,” or as the Traders call him, “anchor.” I knew him formerly as a very large and powerful man, but long sickness has reduced him to a terrible and pitiable state of weakness and leanness. He asked me to come and settle in those parts and start a school for his people. The natives there are very numerous and extremely amiable, and I feel sure a great deal might be done if I could see my way to settling there. A fine young fellow, his son, was very friendly, and also asked me to come and teach them. I said I would see what I could do if they would spare me some boys to go to Norfolk Island to be taught. This they said they would do, as they were tired of the Labour ships. We got back, and Mr. Wilber indulged us in a most sumptuous repast. The boys, my boat’s crew, being tired, we had Prayers early, and they retired for the night in very comfortable quarters provided for them. We, Mr. Wilber, another white man and myself, sat talking till far on into the night, and when I retired it was to the ample recesses of a large four poster, with sheets and other delights and comforts of civilization. I felt I had turned my host out of his bed, but he would insist on my sleeping where he had put me, and I acquiesced. The next morning, _Wednesday, 29th September_, it was very hot and calm, and I determined not to start till the afternoon. After a sumptuous lunch I went to another great man’s village, and received a warm welcome. There they told me that they would build me a schoolhouse and give me boys, and would sell their land to no one else if I would come there and occupy it. Altogether the cry from Macedonia to come over and help them was very cheering, and I must try what I can do for them.

At the end of this period of my work, it is pleasant and thankworthy to find the Morian’s land stretching out her hands unto God. We started soon after I got back for “home,” and had a long, toilsome journey up. However, the boat’s crew were very plucky and merry, and didn’t seem much to mind as the boat’s head was towards Tavolavola. I myself was very seasick in the smooth water, and very soon was in the shivering fit of the ague. I made as good a bed as possible in the boat, and lay down till I got here. On arrival I found Mr. Brittain and party here, and felt sorry for him that I was such a sorry host. I certainly felt cheered by his society, and we sat quite late talking about matters of mutual interest.

_Thursday, September 30th._--After a night of fever and strong perspiration I got up this morning feeling fairly refreshed, and a good deal better, but weak and not fit for much. Mr. Brittain and his party went to Lobaha by boat, but I stayed at home to rest. In the afternoon we walked up to M. Moussu’s place, and he showed us with great pride his garden and poultry yard, and all the other many things which his ingenuity devised, and his cunning hand has fashioned. He gave a splendid quantity of green food, which we afterwards enjoyed for dinner. Prayers concluded the public part of the day, and Mr. B. and myself sat till late talking here in the quiet of a most pacific and mild evening.

_Friday, October 1st._--Fine day. After our morning duties here were over, Mr. Brittain and I went up to Tahimamavi, and stayed some time with the kind-hearted people.

Before leaving, Mr. Brittain bought a number of native Opa mats, which are much treasured at his station at Araga. The Opa people are great hands at mat weaving, and are possessors of a greater quantity and variety than any natives I know. Since the introduction of European calico the manufacture has somewhat diminished. However, when it comes to getting so much tobacco, a great many still turn up, and for the labour it must be to make them, the price is perhaps inadequate except they get all they ask.

We came home in the very hot sun, and Mr. Brittain sat down to dinner alone, I myself being too sick to join him. All the evening I was fit for nothing, and lay down all the time. I did not get up for church, and only finally left my bed to go back to it again for the night. I felt miserably shabby in my position as host to treat my guest so, but I could not help it.

_Saturday, October 2nd._--Dull threatening morning and squally. Mr. Brittain and party decided to go although we tried to detain them. The day, however, cleared, and as they did not return we concluded that they had stood across for Maewo. I was feeling weak and miserable when the kind little Frenchman, M. Moussu, appeared to take me away to have lunch with him. I had agreed to partake of his hospitality on this day, but had quite forgotten all about it. However, my seediness was excuse enough for my forgetfulness, and here he was with his boat to take me off. He is a first rate cook, and treated me to such a display of luxuries as I have never before seen in these parts. The choicest soup, &c., &c., and later on in the feast a most excellent dish of beche de mer. This I liked very much, and should fancy it was very nourishing. He complained of my want of appetite, and J. was sorry I had not more when so many good things were there to be eaten. He brought me back again in his boat, and I felt pretty well all the evening. We had Prayers, and singing practice afterwards, preparatory to Sunday. The evening was fine, and I trust Mr. Brittain and party are well on their homeward way. I wished him to stay till Monday, but he was anxious to get back for Sunday.

_Sunday, October 3rd._--Last night I fancied A. P. Huqe was at the point of death. To-day I felt very ill myself, and have been fit for very little all day. I managed to get through my Sunday duties here, however, and Charles, Mera, and some others went to Tahimamavi, where they had the usual school. I feel very comforted at the earnest manner with which these good people are stretching out their hands at last unto God. I pray that His Spirit may descend upon them in ample measure, that they may continue as earnest to the end as they have now begun to be. I trust, too, the zeal and perseverance of the boys may keep up, so that the teaching may be regularly carried on, and the Word of God become a savour of life unto life.

At present they are very earnest and even indefatigable, but I am somewhat afraid lest white supervision may have something to do with this, and when I am away the present enthusiasm may die down, and things be allowed to go on as they were before.

Would to God I had a few more teachers like Charles Tariqatu, a man in whom truly the Spirit of God is, the most earnest, humble, patient, God-fearing, Gospel-loving youth Opa has ever known. I can only commit the matter to God, and He will provide as seemeth Him best.

In the evening I was very sick and could eat no dinner, and went to bed with ague. Could not go to Church, and Charles took the service and preached.

_Monday, October 4th._--Not very well. I had promised, if well enough, to go to Lobaha to-day, but I had to put off my journey. It was a fine day with a strong Trade wind blowing. In the evening A. P. Huqe was very ill, and I began to be quite alarmed about him. However, we applied hot flannels, which relieved the pain and the vomitting. When he was quieted a little, we removed him to the chief’s house, where he was quiet and comfortable. Some of the boys sat with him, but before I went to bed he was decidedly better, but painfully weak. The only thing I could give him was arrowroot and brandy, which fortunately he liked, and it did him good. I forgot my own ailments in my anxiety for him, and I went to bed aguish and shivering.

_Tuesday, October 5th._--We had got through our morning duties, and I had already secured my boat’s crew, and were on the point of starting for Lobaha, when, “Sail oh!” was cried, and there was the veritable _Southern Cross_ close at hand. It was not long before she was at anchor, and we were rowing off to her. I saw the Bishop and Mr. Palmer on board from some distance off, and when we got alongside, the first question I asked was of course about the Norfolk Island news, which was good. When I got over the side of the ship and had greeted the Bishop and all, I almost fell overboard again with astonishment, for there was Mrs. Selwyn in _proporia persona_, and I could hardly believe my eyes. I was, as they say, perfectly “flabergastered,” and could only shake her by the hand without saying a word, so surprised was I. Yet I was most glad to see her, and she makes quite a new light and life to our ship-board life. Having all my things in the boat, I did not go in again ashore, but the Bishop kindly rowed in to bring off my party who were going to Maewo. When I had settled down a little, and got over my surprise at seeing Mrs. Selwyn, I devoured my home letters, which were very numerous and most welcome. Thank God, all were well and prosperous at Norfolk Island.

One begins a new life now with good news, and a great slice of home on board in the beloved presence of our Bishop’s wife, and the past is forgotten in the present. When the Bishop came off, we got away under steam for Maewo. We had a quick passage over, and were at anchor about 8.30 p.m. It was a glorious evening with a nice bright moon overhead, and the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went for a row in the quiet of the night. In due course, we retired, but I found it very hot and stuffy after the cool night air ashore.

_Wednesday, October 6th._--On board the _Southern Cross_. The tide did not serve till nearly noon, and then the watering began. I took no part, because I was not very well, and I had to get my things together preparatory to going ashore. In the afternoon the Bishop and Mrs. Selwyn went ashore for a scramble, and her enthusiasm when she came off was quite refreshing and most charming to see and hear. The watering, too, was finished, and I was to have gone ashore, but I stayed for another night on board, intending to start very early the next morning. However, I was not very well, and the Bishop kindly postponed the time of sailing, so that the vessel did not leave till after breakfast on

_Thursday, October 7th._--Mrs. Selwyn kindly came in with the Bishop to see the last of me, and A. P. Huqe and myself sat some time after our farewells had been said, deliberating the stupendous undertaking of getting to Tanrig. We were both much refreshed by our stay on board, and quite ready for our stay on shore again. I shall certainly not want for medical comforts and dainties, or even medicines, for the Bishop was kindness itself in lading me with one good thing after another, until my paraphernalia of travel have increased to the no small consternation of my bearers. When the vessel was well away we made our start, and with the expenditure of most of our strength, and certainly of all our moisture, we got at length to the top of the first hill. Then it was all plain sailing, and we got to Ruosi, where we rested and bathed. In that refreshing water I seemed to have left all my ailments and distresses, and I was quite another being when I started again for Tanrig. Hither we arrived in due course, and Huqe, too, seemed quite like another being. It is so nice getting back here again, with the cool invigorating air and the cheery welcoming faces all so pleasant. I miss Arthur, though, very much, and now that Patrick has gone in the ship, the place is almost devoid of teachers, ourselves excepted. The first evening ashore was fine, and the moon shone out brightly as we were coming from Prayers.

_Friday, October 8th._--It rained very heavily during the night, and this morning and all day it blew very hard, with heavy rain squalls at intervals. I did not go out all day, and indeed, I had enough to keep me at home. The people were away busy with their gardens, and the women at home preparing the food for the men. I had almost interminable visits from one and another, during the day, to see the pictures which I had taken of the place, and which Dr. Codrington has printed and sent down to me. They were quite charmed with them, and were much more clever in finding out faces and details, than ever I expected they would be. The day drew rapidly to a close, and the evening was fairly pleasant, but somewhat cold and damp. We had a fair attendance at evening school, and I gave them an address instead of school.

_Saturday, October 9th._--A thoroughly wet and disagreeable day. The rain poured down, and the village looked as if it were going to be flooded. It kept on, too, without intermission almost the whole day, and I could not stir out of doors. However, I had plenty of occupation, and the time passed rapidly. It cleared slightly towards evening, and it was fine overhead for Evensong. Nothing seems to keep these hardy people indoors, and most of them have been paddling about all day in their taro gardens, utterly regardless of the state of the elements. In spite of all inconveniences we had quite a large evening congregation, and few seemed the worse in any way for the unpleasant day. It was a cold, raw evening, and I am not sorry that bed-time is so near.

_Sunday, October 10th._--The day somewhat finer overhead, but still very squally and boisterous. As soon as I was up and dressed we had morning school, with a large and general attendance. The first two classes are supposed to say their Sunday Collect at this school, and answer questions on it. The school begins with a Hymn and Prayer, and finishes with the Lord’s Prayer and the Grace. The third class learn the Church Catechism, and the remainder of the school read from a small manual containing the first seven chapters of S. Matthew’s Gospel. The school lasts about an hour. After breakfast we had Morning Prayer, a very nice service, and I Baptized the infant son of Thomas and Lily by name and special request--Penny. A. P. Huqe, Harry, and Agnes stood sponsors. The Font was very tastefully and prettily decorated by Arthur, and the service was very solemn.

After Matins I assembled the Catechumens for instruction, and I told them that I wished everyone present fully to make up his or her mind to the dignity, the solemnity, and responsibility of what they were undertaking. They are the last unbaptized inhabitants of Tanrig, and of their own accord have pressed for Baptism. They number over twenty, and seem very much in earnest, especially the older men and women. It is most gratifying to me, and a matter for which I cannot sufficiently thank God, that just at the end of this era of my missionary life, I should see such zeal and earnestness exhibited by the people among whom I have worked so long, and apparently with so little result. I shall leave behind me here, please God, an entirely Christian village, in profession at least, and I trust in reality also. There are one or two I wanted to leave out, but they seem so anxious to be Baptized, that I leave their future with God and the blessing of His spirit, and accede to their request. We have here now, all the organizations of a Christian community, a good school, an excellent Church, and a zealous congregation. Surely one can labour on steadfast and unmoveable, seeing that one’s labour is not in vain in the Lord. At other stations also, people are crying out for Baptism, and before I leave, please God, I shall admit many into the Fold of Christ’s Flock.

It was too wet to get about during the afternoon, but we had our usual social meal in the school-house, and in due course, Evensong. This was one of the heartiest and most inspiriting services I have ever known here, and the congregation felt the same, the singing, the responses and all, went with a swing and harmony which shewed that the people’s hearts were in it. I gave a discourse on the Gospel for the day, the story of the widow’s son at Nain, and likened them to the young man, and Christ coming and touching the bier and saying stop! to the powers of evil who were carrying them, dead in trespasses and sins, out to their burial. The young man sat up and began to speak, and our first act, when delivered from the wrath to come, should be to sit up and speak and declare God’s praises for all He has done for us in His dear Son our Saviour. We had singing afterwards, and then dispersed for the night. A great many of the congregation lingered outside, to wish me good-night. Thank God for these real days, how different to the old heathen times, when the people were still lying in the darkness and shadow of death. God grant that they may know Him and the power of His resurrection, and be filled with His fulness and grace.

_Monday, October 11th_, was much finer, and the sun shone out in rich splendour. The people at this time of the year are very busy planting their yam gardens, and every day they are at work from morning until night. The men do the toiling part, the women the cooking. They work in parties, and many hands make light work. The harmonium being out of order I stayed to try and mend it. I was interrupted in the midst of my work by visitors from Tasmouri and Tasmate, and retired to my house to talk with them. When they left I finished my job, and was far more successful than ever I dared to hope. The bellows had burst, and the wind escaped in such quantities that it was hard to get any music at all out of the instrument. I could only make a patch up affair of it, but it was so far successful that a volume of sound was emitted such as I have never heard from it before, and the addition to the singing in the evening was very marked. I had intended to have made an excursion during the day, but it was too late when I had finished, and I had to content myself at home. After Evensong I took the Catechumens for a lesson, and afterwards joined my own class in the school previous to the Roll Call. The evening was fine, but blustery and raw, and I fancy the people were tired, for there was quietness soon after school.

_Tuesday, October 12th._--Very rough, squally morning and a terribly windy night. Sometimes I fancied I was going to be blown over altogether in my frail native hut. However, these little tenements stand a great deal, and here I am safe and sound at the beginning of a new day.

After early Morning Prayer we had our usual school, and breakfast followed. I have no refreshment before this meal, and sometimes I feel a little famished, but am generally ready for the breakfast when it comes. It is not a very sumptuous meal at the best of times, plain rice and a cup of coffee, but it does very well, and stops the craving of the appetite as well as anything else. The strange thing is that at home I scarcely ever touch rice, having a positive aversion to it, but here I make my breakfast on it nine mornings out of ten.

After breakfast I had school with a very earnest Candidate for Baptism who comes from Mandurvat, and wished for special instruction. I hope I managed to explain to him any difficulties he has experienced in the nature and meaning of the service. When he was dismissed I wended my way with some of the boys to Ruosi, where I bathed and washed my clothes. I do not know what it was, but when I got home I was quite exhausted, and somehow I don’t feel as strong as I did at the beginning of the season. We had very hearty Evensong, and a nice class with the Catechumens, who, I think, are very much in earnest, especially the older men. There are about twenty in this class, the last remnant of the heathen population. With their Baptism, Tanrig will cease to have any remains of heathenism, and in name at least will be able to call itself Christian. The usual school was held, and the first two classes were engaged in solving the mysteries of simple addition, one of the girls succeeding in doing a six line sum without a fault. This same girl, Emily by name, is rather a creditable production for this out of the world place. She reads well, answers well, and writes well, besides being quite an adept at figures. A couple of years at Norfolk Island would make a very useful woman of her. There are seven others in her class who all are very fair scholars, and take their turn at teaching.