Part 1

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JOURNAL

OF RESIDENCE IN THE NEW HEBRIDES, S.W. PACIFIC OCEAN.

WRITTEN DURING THE YEAR 1886,

BY

REVDS. C. BICE AND A. BRITTAIN.

TRURO:

NETHERTON AND WORTH, LEMON STREET.

1887.

PREFACE.

I have been induced to publish the following Journals at the request of some friends who have perused them, and think they will prove interesting to others. The Journal of the Rev. A. Brittain arrived too late for insertion in the ‘Island Voyage’ for this year, and I have been requested by the Rev. William Selwyn, the Secretary of the Melanesian Mission, to print it with my own. I do this with the greater pleasure, because his report will not only supply me with a good excuse for rushing into print, but will furnish others with a more full and complete account of the work of the Melanesian Mission in the New Hebrides.

The three islands herein spoken of are the Northernmost of the above-mentioned group--the New Hebrides--and form the Southern boundary of the Melanesian Mission work in the islands of the South-west Pacific Ocean.

Araga (or Pentecost) and Maewo (or Aurora) are long and mountainous islands running almost North and South, about forty miles each in length, and separated by a narrow channel three miles wide. Opa (or Leper’s Island) runs at right angles to these, a broad, massive, grand looking country, resembling in appearance a huge whale, the hump of which rises to a height of over 4000 feet.

Araga and Opa are thickly populated, but Maewo has a scattered and sparse population. Opa is about sixteen miles from Araga, but a channel of only five miles in width separates it from Maewo.

The languages and dispositions of these neighbouring lands are much more varied and dissimilar than would naturally be inferred from their close propinquity. And the majority of the people, too, seem to prefer an inland situation, all which serve to make the work of the Missionary the more arduous and difficult. On these islands every outward prospect is pleasing, and the inhabitants themselves not so far gone in vileness as to be incapable of improvement, as I hope the following pages will show. The work of the Melanesian Mission has been established in these islands a good many years now, with more or less success, and schools are in active operation as follows:--

At ARAGA--Wonor, on the Southern face of the island, and Lamoru and Qatvenua on the North.

At MAEWO--Tanrig, Tasmouri, Tasmate, Mandurvat, Naruru, and Uta. All these stations are on the North of the island.

At OPA--Tavolavola, Lobaha, Walurigi, the most flourishing of which is that first mentioned.

With these few preliminary remarks and explanations I leave the following simple pages to tell their own story.

CHARLES BICE.

N.B.--The vowels in the Melanesian languages are pronounced as in Italian: a = _ah_, e = _a_, i = _e_.

The letter written [¨n] = _ng_ in _singer_; d = _nd_, b = _mb_.

JOURNAL.

_1886._

_Friday, 9th July._--The weather seaward looked very threatening as we stood on the Pier at the Settlement in readiness to embark. All the Melanesians, boys and girls, to the number of about 50 had already gone off to the ship which lay tossing and tumbling at her anchorage as if anxious to be let free. A considerable number of Norfolk Island friends were on the Pier, in addition to most of the Members of the Mission, to bid us Farewell and wish us GOD speed. Many thoughtful little mementos, too, found their way into our hands from our warm-hearted and well wishing friends. The process of shaking hands took some time in execution, but one could not but feel the absence of many who were unavoidably absent on the occasion. My own little ones were the last to bid me good-bye, and poor little Walter (my youngest son) was very tearful. Shortly after, we were all in the boat, and “let go” was called out. The landing was very smooth, and we got out with very little difficulty. Besides the Captain, Mr. Turnbull and myself were the only passengers. It was close upon 5 o’clock p.m. when we got on board, and some of the passengers had already begun to feel the motion of the ocean. After things were put into some order and the shore boat dismissed with Captain Bates and the Norfolk Island crew, the command to “heave away” was given, and then I saw for the first time the steam winch at work. Before many minutes the anchor was in its place in the bows of the ship, and the long process of raising the anchor in old days, performed by manual labour, reduced to a minimum. We slipped quietly down the leeside of the island, and had ample time to get into some amount of order and readiness for a very dirty, rough night. Opposite the Mission, the boys ashore had lit a large bonfire, and we could hear their shouts, borne seaward by the raging gale. As night closed in the sky became very dark and lowering, and we knew full well what we were to expect. We had dinner while still under the lee of the island, but before the meal was finished, we were knocking about in the heavy head gale. Of course any where but at Norfolk Island, where there is no certain shelter, it would be approaching madness to put to sea with such a crowd of people in a small ship on a night like this, but here there is no help for it. Perhaps had we not got away as we did, we might have been detained another week, from the uncertainty of wind changes and the insecurity of the anchorages. All night it blew very heavily, with a nasty head sea. Of course, the wind being very strong and dead ahead, we made little or no progress, and were in fact hove to. Most of the passengers spent a very unpleasant night, and the poor little children, of whom we had four on board, suffered like the others. The poor boys in the schoolroom had a disagreeable time, owing to the large amount of cargo on board, in addition to their own luggage. The _Southern Cross_, however, is a magnificent sea boat, although slightly lively, and being at sea was, to me at least, the worst of the evils we experienced that first night. Mr. Turnbull is a good sailor, and he and I were alone in the saloon. Poor old Manekalea I invited also to sleep there, on account of his blindness, and I asked Silas Kema to sleep there and look after him. Poor fellow, his sight seems quite gone, but he is wonderfully patient and resigned. I think now he begins to feel that there is no hope of his ever seeing again, and he begins to try and help himself and get about alone a great deal more than before. The loss of so young, active, and intelligent a Teacher must be much felt in the district of Ysabel, formerly under his charge.

_Saturday, 10th._--The wind had abated little, if any, this morning, and the vessel was making little or no headway. It rained a good deal throughout the day, and that allayed both wind and sea by evening. Very few of the boys appeared on deck, and I myself was quite _hors de combat_. Mr. Turnbull kindly offered to read prayers in English for me in the Evening, and I managed the Mota with a few who were able to attend. These first days on board ship are very trying, one feels quite out of it altogether, and the sea legs are somewhat long in returning when one has been ashore for any length of time. Towards evening the weather moderated a little, but there was very little life about the ship. These unhappy days when one is the victim of _mal de mer_ leave a very unsatisfactory impression behind them, and if any recollection is left, it is always painful. I was not actually seasick myself, but I felt uncomfortable enough for a time, and did not care for ship’s fare.

_Sunday, 11th._--The weather more moderate. I conducted Morning Prayer both in English and Mota, and generally our passengers were getting over their indisposition. It was not a very profitable day however to me, for I could not settle to anything: our Service hours on Sunday, at sea, are English Mattins at 9 o’clock a.m. and Evensong at 7 p.m. Mota 11 a.m. and 7.30 p.m. Our daily hours for meals are 8 a.m. breakfast, 12 noon lunch, 5 p.m. dinner. On Sunday this is slightly changed, and we dine at 1, and tea at 5 p.m. At anchor, too, the English Morning Service is postponed to 10 a.m., and all the sailors are enabled to attend. Usually only one watch can be present while the vessel is at sea. This year we have a crew composed entirely of Englishmen. We have generally had previously a strong admixture of foreigners. The steward, indeed, is a German, but he has been with us so many voyages, speaks and reads English so well, that one quite forgets his nationality. The crew are a very nice, quiet, well-behaved set of men, and all look so respectable. I believe the Captain has many applications for billets on board the _Southern Cross_, she being a popular vessel now-a-days, besides, a trip in her is a paying affair, for I am told that sometimes the men realize from £10 to £30 and £40 by the sale of curios alone. The great collector on board now is John Brown the boatswain, and he has accumulated quite a museum, which he meditates taking to England for sale next year. Brown is an old Island Trader, and knows all the specialities of the trade and what will captivate the native taste. Penny whistles and half-penny looking glasses, I believe, are the line this trip. There is very keen competition too on board when the curio fields are reached, chiefly at Santa Cruz and some of the Solomon Islands. Sunday passed away somewhat profitlessly, and evening once more closed over a day past and gone. I did not give the sailors a Sermon, but reserved my efforts for the Melanesians, many of whom were able to attend. I naturally chose the subject of the Gospel as the basis of my remarks, viz: the recovery of the lost sheep and the piece of money, which I applied to the condition of the heathen to whom we were going, and our duty as seekers of those who were still wandering upon the mountains and upon every high hill, with none caring for them or seeking them out. We had some singing after the service, and the termination of the day at least was pleasant, and I hope profitable. One’s thoughts naturally wandered away back to Norfolk Island, and one thought of the quiet peaceful Sunday evenings there, and the love of those we had left. The vessel was much more at her ease this evening, and we could undress and rest in bed with more comfort.

It was a great pleasure to me from this time forward, to see the boys dropping into the cabin one by one to say their prayers, unbidden but none the less welcome.

_Monday, 12th July._--This morning the wind has moderated very considerably, and the sea is going down. The vessel moving along much more gently and easily, sometimes towards our destination. Life on board is almost utterly devoid of interest or excitement. There is little or nothing stirring, and out of our element we feel restless and not fit for much. We begin now however, to fall into ship-shape ways, and things begin to look a little straighter than they did. The boys are divided into sets of cooks, and have to take their turn in order to cook and keep the schoolroom clean. The Melanesians have three meals a day, and they are supposed to look after their own food, the cook giving directions as to what he wants doing. After the misery and prostration of _mal de mer_ have passed off, the boys get very lively, and do not easily again succumb.

In the evening we had music. Brown the boatswain has a most ingenious instrument called, I think, the “Cabinetto,” which plays almost any tune; a piece of perforated paper is turned over a sort of key-board, like a mouth organ, by means of a handle, and the closed notes are kept silent, while the open ones speak according to the length of the perforation. Its tone is somewhat harsh, but the music is very correct, and there is plenty of it. Brown bought this instrument, which cost him some £15 or £16, for the special amusement of his young Melanesian friends. The girls never seem to tire of turning the handle, and the more it is turned the better the owner seems pleased. Forward there is a very good concertina, exceptionally well played by one of the sailors, a banjo played by another, and a tin plate beaten by a third makes a very fair tambourine. Altogether, the hour between 5 and 6 p.m. is very lively with strains of music and other enlivenments. The boys most thoroughly enjoy the music, and are very attentive and enthusiastic listeners, breaking in with a good chorus when they happen to know any of the pieces played. At 7 p.m. English Prayers, a shortened form of Evensong with a hymn, and afterwards full Evensong in Mota with a good deal of singing. We have many nice voices on board this time, and the singing is exceptionally good. Owing to the crowded state of the schoolroom, service is held in the saloon, which is inconveniently small for the large number who attend. The girls who hitherto have been prevented from attending, by reason of sea-sickness, this evening put in a very fairly large appearance. Most Melanesian ladies are bad sailors, and some never get over the inconveniences of the uncongenial sea element.

_Tuesday, 13th July._--The weather this morning was somewhat finer, but still a good deal unsettled. We have failed as yet to get hold of the S.E. Trades, but are living in hopes that a favourable breeze will soon waft us onward to our destination. The great excitement this morning was the smoke of a steamer, which at first we wildly imagined must be the vessel expected from Sydney to meet us at Norfolk Island, giving us chase. However, wiser heads, by the direction of the ship’s head and the course of the smoke, made it out to be the _Rockton_ or some steamer from Fiji towards New Caledonia. Whatever ship it may have been, the excitement all ended in smoke. Beyond this, we have had nothing stirring all day. The moon at night dispersed the clouds, and the concertina forward enlivened the monotony of the evening. And so has passed another day, leaving little record of any work done.

_Wednesday, 14th July._--We were to-day somewhere in the neighbourhood of Walpole Island, a flat, uninhabited island lying by itself in mid ocean, on which myriads of sea birds have their dwelling, and lay their eggs and hatch their young. The weather was somewhat hazy, so we got no sight of the sun although the Captain was anxious to do so, not having been able to see that orb either to-day or yesterday. The ‘dead reckoning’ alone showed him our probable whereabouts, but he was not able to get any definite position laid down. Shoals of fish were seen about the ship to-day, and the boys perched on the bowsprit end succeeded in cleverly catching two fine skipjacks, one of which we had cooked for dinner, and which was pronounced as very good eating. No bait is required for these fish, a line, rod, and hook to which a piece of red rag is attached, are requisite, and the motion of the vessel makes the tempting object skip along the surface of the water, to which the fish rises and swallows hook and all. They are large fish, and peculiarly strong, especially with their tails. At times they breach out of the water to a great height, the motive power being seated in their tails. One of the boys unadvisedly took hold of one of those caught to-day too near the tail, and the fish lashing out struck him on the forefinger, and at first I fancied had sprained it, for the whole hand swelled, and he was in considerable pain for some time. This evening it was very quiet and pleasant, and the moon added to the pleasantness of the occasion. It is wonderful to mark how the days lengthen as we go further North, and how the weather grows warmer. Soon we shall dispense with waistcoats, and bye and bye coats will likewise go, except at meals and at prayers. We saw nothing of Walpole Island, and the Captain got no sight of the sun again to-day.

_Thursday, 15th July._--This morning we were well up with Anaiteum, the first of the New Hebrides group, and belonging to the Presbyterians who have been established there a great number of years. Soon after Tanna appeared in view, and later on in the day Eromango. We could not see the volcano at Tanna, so that we cannot speak of its activity or otherwise. We passed close under Eromango, and for some time the water was quite smooth. We had a most beautiful wind all day, the real S.E. Trades, and we were enabled to make good progress towards our first place of call. Everyone on board seems to have sprung into life with the sight of land, and no doubt many see in the islands we are passing the anticipation of their own homes. Most of our passengers are from the New Hebrides and Banks’ groups, of which these three islands are the commencement. It was most beautiful all day and the evening especially enjoyable; the Captain wisely remarked that if it were always so fine, there would be too many sailors, or at least persons who would want to go to sea. Melanesian islands are disappointing as viewed at a distance from the sea, for they are like any other place, but the great beauty of them is seen on nearer inspection and ashore. These three islands and the Loyalty group are not so thickly wooded as some farther North.

_Friday, July 16th._--Strong S.E. Trades, and we moved along rapidly all day, doing over two hundred miles. We found ourselves in the evening running through the passage between Ambrym and Pentecost at the South end of which we expected to find Mr. Brittain, who had been left there when the ship went back to Norfolk Island. We stood quite close into the place, but receiving no manner of response from the shore we began to suspect that after all the bird had flown. The vessel stood off and on all the night, and it certainly was more comfortable than usually is the case under the like circumstances. The vessel rode very quietly all night, and on

_Saturday, July 17th._--We were early off our place of call, and seeing no signs ashore the boat was lowered and I took the steer oar in a furious wind and a heavy sea. The approach to and departure from this place were as nasty as could be, and I was not sorry to be on board all right again. Mr. Brittain had left some time before, and our visit was futile except that we brought off his things. The people were quiet and well behaved, and Tom (the teacher) was in great form. Tom, having been educated in Sydney, speaks remarkably good English and is evidently held in respect by his people. Their dress and appearance are very like their neighbours of Ambrym, and the women wear the flaxen petticoat also like the Ambrymese. Their language, too, I believe, is akin, the distance separating the two islands not being more than five or six miles. Tom is building a very nice school, and there seems a large population. A big, chiefly looking man was sitting on the beach as we were coming away, and Tom told me that he was the chief of the place. I had brought nothing with me from the ship, and the boys had nothing, so the best I could do for the great man was to give him a tin of sardines which I got out of one of Mr. Brittain’s boxes. I dare say he would have preferred tobacco, but he seemed as satisfied as natives usually appear to be, for they are not generally very demonstrative or profuse in their thanks. The tide was falling fast so we had to beat a hasty retreat and got off with some considerable difficulty.

Poor Tom must find life at home somewhat of a change to the ‘easy life’ he enjoyed in Sydney. I believe he was very much scandalized when he first got home at the outrageously indecent dress of his countrymen. He himself still dons the Sydney costume, but minus boots. Poor boy! I dare say he dreamed in Sydney of the reforms he would endeavour to effect when he got home, but the stern difficulties in the way he now begins to realize. Oh! Missionary work seems easy enough when viewed from an arm chair at a distance of many thousand miles, the difficulties only become apparent when the man is brought into close connection with his work, and has to grapple in a stubborn, persistant hand to hand fight with the Evil one. Poor Tom! I suppose he will try a little at first to stem the tide, and failing in that, will drift along with the stream. To a poor youth like that the difficulties of his position must seem stupendous and insurmountable. Nothing but the grace of God is sufficient for such. I dare say ere now his bright vistas and day dreams are being only too rudely dispelled, for he will have to find out like all other Missionaries that Christians are not made by machinery, or believers made such in a day; it is a long and weary process, but labour is not in vain in the Lord. Once more on board, the boat was hauled up, and on we started for the North end of the island where now we hoped to find Mr. Brittain. We saw a Labour vessel at anchor along the coast, and got to our own anchorage about 4 p.m. Mr. Brittain came off in his boat very sick, and with some difficulty got on board. He has been ill three weeks and was very anxious for the return of the vessel. During the evening he brightened up a good deal and I dare say felt much better for the society of his white brethren. He gave a very sad account of the state of things ashore, great sickness and considerable mortality. We had a very quiet night at anchor, and determined to stay here till Monday. We had some boys to land, and the boats were going forth and back all the evening. The clatter alongside was fearful owing to the large number of canoes that put off to the ship and every occupant speaking at the same time. They used to be a very noisy crowd, but have much improved of late years. It was a most glorious night at anchor and not excessively hot. We consider that we have done very well to be here so soon with the bad start from Norfolk Island. How the boys and girls did enjoy the fruits of their own islands again, especially green cocoanuts and soft sugar cane! And how pleasing was it too, as well as entertaining, as the shades of evening closed in, to watch the coy and shy flirtations of the young married couples on board; one or two were quite oldfashioned at the process, but Charles and Monica especially were somewhat more bashful. The young bridegrooms were most attentive to their respective spouses on the voyage but necessarily lived apart. The boys and men all live together in the schoolroom, and the girls and married women aft. There are as yet no married people’s apartments, we shall look for those when we get a bigger ship.

_Sunday, 18th July._--Quiet and peaceful day at Araga. The natives regarded the observance of Sunday so strictly that they troubled us very little with their noisy chatter, indeed very few canoes came off at all to the ship, and we were able to have an uninterrupted day of rest. Our services began at 10 a.m. with English Prayers. We chanted the Venite, read the Te Deum, and sang the Jubilate besides singing the Glorias in the Psalms, and two hymns. We had therefore full Mattins with a short address to which the men paid very good attention. I tried to make the discourse as easy and lively as possible, and interspersed a few anecdotes among my remarks, which I think, being appropriate, were appreciated. The service lasted just three quarters of an hour so that the men were not wearied. It was not a very hot day, but beautifully bright and glorious. Shorewards it looked most lovely, the bright sunshine lighting up the vegetation with a silver sheen, everything seeming to catch the infection from the King of Day, who rejoiced as a giant to run his course. On board a gentle breeze cooled the air, and under the awning and down below alike it was bearably comfortable and refreshing.