Chapter XXI

MAURITIUS TO ENGLAND

Mauritius, beautiful appearance of—Great crateriform ring of mountains—Hindoos—St. Helena—History of the changes in the vegetation—Cause of the extinction of land-shells—Ascension—Variation in the imported rats—Volcanic bombs—Beds of infusoria—Bahia, Brazil—Splendour of tropical scenery—Pernambuco—Singular reef—Slavery—Return to England—Retrospect on our voyage.

_April_ 29_th._—In the morning we passed round the northern end of Mauritius, or the Isle of France. From this point of view the aspect of the island equalled the expectations raised by the many well-known descriptions of its beautiful scenery. The sloping plain of the Pamplemousses, interspersed with houses, and coloured by the large fields of sugar-cane of a bright green, composed the foreground. The brilliancy of the green was the more remarkable because it is a colour which generally is conspicuous only from a very short distance. Towards the centre of the island groups of wooded mountains rose out of this highly cultivated plain; their summits, as so commonly happens with ancient volcanic rocks, being jagged into the sharpest points. Masses of white clouds were collected around these pinnacles, as if for the sake of pleasing the stranger’s eye. The whole island, with its sloping border and central mountains, was adorned with an air of perfect elegance: the scenery, if I may use such an expression, appeared to the sight harmonious.

I spent the greater part of the next day in walking about the town and visiting different people. The town is of considerable size, and is said to contain 20,000 inhabitants; the streets are very clean and regular. Although the island has been so many years under the English government, the general character of the place is quite French: Englishmen speak to their servants in French, and the shops are all French; indeed I should think that Calais or Boulogne was much more Anglified. There is a very pretty little theatre in which operas are excellently performed. We were also surprised at seeing large booksellers’ shops, with well-stored shelves;—music and reading bespeak our approach to the old world of civilisation; for in truth both Australia and America are new worlds.

The various races of men walking in the streets afford the most interesting spectacle in Port Louis. Convicts from India are banished here for life; at present there are about 800, and they are employed in various public works. Before seeing these people, I had no idea that the inhabitants of India were such noble-looking figures. Their skin is extremely dark, and many of the older men had large mustaches and beards of a snow-white colour; this, together with the fire of their expression, gave them quite an imposing aspect. The greater number had been banished for murder and the worst crimes; others for causes which can scarcely be considered as moral faults, such as for not obeying, from superstitious motives, the English laws. These men are generally quiet and well-conducted; from their outward conduct, their cleanliness and faithful observance of their strange religious rites, it was impossible to look at them with the same eyes as on our wretched convicts in New South Wales.

_May_ 1_st._—Sunday. I took a quiet walk along the sea-coast to the north of the town. The plain in this part is quite uncultivated; it consists of a field of black lava, smoothed over with coarse grass and bushes, the latter being chiefly Mimosas. The scenery may be described as intermediate in character between that of the Galapagos and of Tahiti; but this will convey a definite idea to very few persons. It is a very pleasant country, but it has not the charms of Tahiti, or the grandeur of Brazil. The next day I ascended La Pouce, a mountain so called from a thumb-like projection, which rises close behind the town to a height of 2,600 feet. The centre of the island consists of a great platform, surrounded by old broken basaltic mountains, with their strata dipping seawards. The central platform, formed of comparatively recent streams of lava, is of an oval shape, thirteen geographical miles across in the line of its shorter axis. The exterior bounding mountains come into that class of structures called Craters of Elevation, which are supposed to have been formed not like ordinary craters, but by a great and sudden upheaval. There appear to me to be insuperable objections to this view: on the other hand, I can hardly believe, in this and in some other cases, that these marginal crateriform mountains are merely the basal remnants of immense volcanos, of which the summits either have been blown off or swallowed up in subterranean abysses.

From our elevated position we enjoyed an excellent view over the island. The country on this side appears pretty well cultivated, being divided into fields and studded with farm-houses. I was however assured that of the whole land not more than half is yet in a productive state; if such be the case, considering the present large export of sugar, this island, at some future period when thickly peopled, will be of great value. Since England has taken possession of it, a period of only twenty-five years, the export of sugar is said to have increased seventy-five fold. One great cause of its prosperity is the excellent state of the roads. In the neighbouring Isle of Bourbon, which remains under the French government, the roads are still in the same miserable state as they were here only a few years ago. Although the French residents must have largely profited by the increased prosperity of their island, yet the English government is far from popular.

3_rd._—In the evening Captain Lloyd, the Surveyor-general, so well known from his examination of the Isthmus of Panama, invited Mr. Stokes and myself to his country-house, which is situated on the edge of Wilheim Plains, and about six miles from the Port. We stayed at this delightful place two days; standing nearly 800 feet above the sea, the air was cool and fresh, and on every side there were delightful walks. Close by a grand ravine has been worn to a depth of about 500 feet through the slightly inclined streams of lava, which have flowed from the central platform.

5_th._—Captain Lloyd took us to the Rivière Noire, which is several miles to the southward, that I might examine some rocks of elevated coral. We passed through pleasant gardens, and fine fields of sugar-cane growing amidst huge blocks of lava. The roads were bordered by hedges of Mimosa, and near many of the houses there were avenues of the mango. Some of the views where the peaked hills and the cultivated farms were seen together, were exceedingly picturesque; and we were constantly tempted to exclaim “How pleasant it would be to pass one’s life in such quiet abodes!” Captain Lloyd possessed an elephant, and he sent it half-way with us, that we might enjoy a ride in true Indian fashion. The circumstance which surprised me most was its quite noiseless step. This elephant is the only one at present on the island; but it is said others will be sent for.

_May_ 9_th._—We sailed from Port Louis, and, calling at the Cape of Good Hope, on the 8th of July we arrived off St. Helena. This island, the forbidding aspect of which has been so often described, rises abruptly like a huge black castle from the ocean. Near the town, as if to complete nature’s defence, small forts and guns fill up every gap in the rugged rocks. The town runs up a flat and narrow valley; the houses look respectable, and are interspersed with a very few green trees. When approaching the anchorage there was one striking view: an irregular castle perched on the summit of a lofty hill, and surrounded by a few scattered fir-trees, boldly projected against the sky.

The next day I obtained lodgings within a stone’s throw of Napoleon’s tomb;[1] it was a capital central situation, whence I could make excursions in every direction. During the four days I stayed here I wandered over the island from morning to night and examined its geological history. My lodgings were situated at a height of about 2000 feet; here the weather was cold and boisterous, with constant showers of rain; and every now and then the whole scene was veiled in thick clouds.

[1] After the volumes of eloquence which have poured forth on this subject, it is dangerous even to mention the tomb. A modern traveller, in twelve lines, burdens the poor little island with the following titles,—it is a grave, tomb, pyramid, cemetery, sepulchre, catacomb, sarcophagus, minaret, and mausoleum!

St. Helena

Near the coast the rough lava is quite bare: in the central and higher parts feldspathic rocks by their decomposition have produced a clayey soil, which, where not covered by vegetation, is stained in broad bands of many bright colours. At this season the land, moistened by constant showers, produces a singularly bright green pasture, which lower and lower down gradually fades away and at last disappears. In latitude 16°, and at the trifling elevation of 1500 feet, it is surprising to behold a vegetation possessing a character decidedly British. The hills are crowned with irregular plantations of Scotch firs; and the sloping banks are thickly scattered over with thickets of gorse, covered with its bright yellow flowers. Weeping-willows are common on the banks of the rivulets, and the hedges are made of the blackberry, producing its well-known fruit. When we consider that the number of plants now found on the island is 746, and that out of these fifty-two alone are indigenous species, the rest having been imported, and most of them from England, we see the reason of the British character of the vegetation. Many of these English plants appear to flourish better than in their native country; some also from the opposite quarter of Australia succeed remarkably well. The many imported species must have destroyed some of the native kinds; and it is only on the highest and steepest ridges that the indigenous Flora is now predominant.

The English, or rather Welsh character of the scenery, is kept up by the numerous cottages and small white houses; some buried at the bottom of the deepest valleys, and others mounted on the crests of the lofty hills. Some of the views are striking, for instance that from near Sir W. Doveton’s house, where the bold peak called Lot is seen over a dark wood of firs, the whole being backed by the red water-worn mountains of the southern coast. On viewing the island from an eminence, the first circumstance which strikes one is the number of the roads and forts: the labour bestowed on the public works, if one forgets its character as a prison, seems out of all proportion to its extent or value. There is so little level or useful land that it seems surprising how so many people, about 5000, can subsist here. The lower orders, or the emancipated slaves, are, I believe, extremely poor: they complain of the want of work. From the reduction in the number of public servants, owing to the island having been given up by the East India Company, and the consequent emigration of many of the richer people, the poverty probably will increase. The chief food of the working class is rice with a little salt meat; as neither of these articles are the products of the island, but must be purchased with money, the low wages tell heavily on the poor people. Now that the people are blessed with freedom, a right which I believe they value fully, it seems probable that their numbers will quickly increase: if so, what is to become of the little state of St. Helena?

My guide was an elderly man who had been a goatherd when a boy, and knew every step amongst the rocks. He was of a race many times crossed, and although with a dusky skin, he had not the disagreeable expression of a mulatto. He was a very civil, quiet old man, and such appears the character of the greater number of the lower classes. It was strange to my ears to hear a man, nearly white and respectably dressed, talking with indifference of the times when he was a slave. With my companion, who carried our dinners and a horn of water, which is quite necessary, as all the water in the lower valleys is saline, I every day took long walks.

Beneath the upper and central green circle, the wild valleys are quite desolate and untenanted. Here, to the geologist, there were scenes of high interest, showing successive changes and complicated disturbances. According to my views, St. Helena has existed as an island from a very remote epoch: some obscure proofs, however, of the elevation of the land are still extant. I believe that the central and highest peaks form parts of the rim of a great crater, the southern half of which has been entirely removed by the waves of the sea: there is, moreover, an external wall of black basaltic rocks, like the coast-mountains of Mauritius, which are older than the central volcanic streams. On the higher parts of the island considerable numbers of a shell, long thought to be a marine species, occur imbedded in the soil. It proves to be a Cochlogena, or land-shell of a very peculiar form;[2] with it I found six other kinds; and in another spot an eighth species. It is remarkable that none of them are now found living. Their extinction has probably been caused by the entire destruction of the woods, and the consequent loss of food and shelter, which occurred during the early part of the last century.

[2] It deserves notice that all the many specimens of this shell found by me in one spot differ as a marked variety from another set of specimens procured from a different spot.

The history of the changes which the elevated plains of Longwood and Deadwood have undergone, as given in General Beatson’s account of the island, is extremely curious. Both plains, it is said, in former times were covered with wood, and were therefore called the Great Wood. So late as the year 1716 there were many trees, but in 1724 the old trees had mostly fallen; and as goats and hogs had been suffered to range about, all the young trees had been killed. It appears also from the official records that the trees were unexpectedly, some years afterwards, succeeded by a wire grass which spread over the whole surface.[3] General Beatson adds that now this plain “is covered with fine sward, and is become the finest piece of pasture on the island.” The extent of surface, probably covered by wood at a former period, is estimated at no less than two thousand acres; at the present day scarcely a single tree can be found there. It is also said that in 1709 there were quantities of dead trees in Sandy Bay; this place is now so utterly desert that nothing but so well attested an account could have made me believe that they could ever have grown there. The fact that the goats and hogs destroyed all the young trees as they sprang up, and that in the course of time the old ones, which were safe from their attacks, perished from age, seems clearly made out. Goats were introduced in the year 1502; eighty-six years afterwards, in the time of Cavendish, it is known that they were exceedingly numerous. More than a century afterwards, in 1731, when the evil was complete and irretrievable, an order was issued that all stray animals should be destroyed. It is very interesting thus to find that the arrival of animals at St. Helena in 1501 did not change the whole aspect of the island, until a period of two hundred and twenty years had elapsed: for the goats were introduced in 1502, and in 1724 it is said “the old trees had mostly fallen.” There can be little doubt that this great change in the vegetation affected not only the land-shells, causing eight species to become extinct, but likewise a multitude of insects.

[3] Beatson’s _St. Helena_. Introductory chapter, p. 4.

St. Helena, situated so remote from any continent, in the midst of a great ocean, and possessing a unique Flora, excites our curiosity. The eight land-shells, though now extinct, and one living Succinea, are peculiar species found nowhere else. Mr. Cuming, however, informs me that an English Helix is common here, its eggs no doubt having been imported in some of the many introduced plants. Mr. Cuming collected on the coast sixteen species of sea-shells, of which seven, as far as he knows, are confined to this island. Birds and insects,[4] as might have been expected, are very few in number; indeed I believe all the birds have been introduced within late years. Partridges and pheasants are tolerably abundant; the island is much too English not to be subject to strict game-laws. I was told of a more unjust sacrifice to such ordinances than I ever heard of even in England. The poor people formerly used to burn a plant which grows on the coast-rocks, and export the soda from its ashes; but a peremptory order came out prohibiting this practice, and giving as a reason that the partridges would have nowhere to build!

[4] Among these few insects I was surprised to find a small Aphodius (nov. spec.) and an Oryctes, both extremely numerous under dung. When the island was discovered it certainly possessed no quadruped excepting _perhaps_ a mouse: it becomes, therefore, a difficult point to ascertain, whether these stercovorous insects have since been imported by accident, or if aborigines, on what food they formerly subsisted. On the banks of the Plata, where, from the vast number of cattle and horses, the fine plains of turf are richly manured, it is vain to seek the many kinds of dung-feeding beetles which occur so abundantly in Europe. I observed only an Oryctes (the insects of this genus in Europe generally feed on decayed vegetable matter) and two species of Phanæus, common in such situations. On the opposite side of the Cordillera in Chiloe another species of Phanæus is exceedingly abundant, and it buries the dung of the cattle in large earthen balls beneath the ground. There is reason to believe that the genus Phanæus, before the introduction of cattle, acted as scavengers to man. In Europe beetles which find support in the matter which has already contributed towards the life of other and larger animals, are so numerous that there must be considerably more than one hundred different species. Considering this, and observing what a quantity of food of this kind is lost on the plains of La Plata, I imagined I saw an instance where man had disturbed that chain by which so many animals are linked together in their native country. In Van Diemen’s Land, however, I found four species of Onthophagus, two of Aphodius, and one of a third genus, very abundant under the dung of cows; yet these latter animals had been then introduced only thirty-three years. Previous to that time the kangaroo and some other small animals were the only quadrupeds; and their dung is of a very different quality from that of their successors introduced by man. In England the greater number of stercovorous beetles are confined in their appetites; that is, they do not depend indifferently on any quadruped for the means of subsistence. The change, therefore, in habits which must have taken place in Van Diemen’s Land is highly remarkable. I am indebted to the Reverend F. W. Hope, who, I hope, will permit me to call him my master in Entomology, for giving me the names of the foregoing insects.

In my walks I passed more than once over the grassy plain, bounded by deep valleys, on which Longwood stands. Viewed from a short distance, it appears like a respectable gentleman’s country-seat. In front there are a few cultivated fields, and beyond them the smooth hill of coloured rocks called the Flagstaff, and the rugged square black mass of the Barn. On the whole the view was rather bleak and uninteresting. The only inconvenience I suffered during my walks was from the impetuous winds. One day I noticed a curious circumstance: standing on the edge of a plain, terminated by a great cliff of about a thousand feet in depth, I saw at the distance of a few yards right to windward, some tern, struggling against a very strong breeze, whilst, where I stood, the air was quite calm. Approaching close to the brink, where the current seemed to be deflected upwards from the face of the cliff, I stretched out my arm, and immediately felt the full force of the wind: an invisible barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm air from a strong blast.

I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and mountains of St. Helena that I felt almost sorry on the morning of the 14th to descend to the town. Before noon I was on board, and the _ Beagle_ made sail.

On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who have beheld a volcanic island situated under an arid climate will at once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of Ascension. They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright red colour, with their summits generally truncated, rising separately out of a level surface of black rugged lava. A principal mound in the centre of the island seems the father of the lesser cones. It is called Green Hill: its name being taken from the faintest tinge of that colour, which at this time of the year is barely perceptible from the anchorage. To complete the desolate scene, the black rocks on the coast are lashed by a wild and turbulent sea.

The settlement is near the beach; it consists of several houses and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white freestone. The only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes liberated from slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by government. There is not a private person on the island. Many of the marines appeared well contented with their situation; they think it better to serve their one-and-twenty years on shore, let it be what it may, than in a ship; in this choice, if I were a marine, I should most heartily agree.

The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2840 feet high, and thence walked across the island to the windward point. A good cart-road leads from the coast-settlement to the houses, gardens, and fields, placed near the summit of the central mountain. On the roadside there are milestones, and likewise cisterns, where each thirsty passer-by can drink some good water. Similar care is displayed in each part of the establishment, and especially in the management of the springs, so that a single drop of water may not be lost: indeed the whole island may be compared to a huge ship kept in first-rate order. I could not help, when admiring the active industry which had created such effects out of such means, at the same time regretting that it had been wasted on so poor and trifling an end. M. Lesson has remarked with justice that the English nation would have thought of making the island of Ascension a productive spot, any other people would have held it as a mere fortress in the ocean.

Near this coast nothing grows; farther inland an occasional green castor-oil plant, and a few grasshoppers, true friends of the desert, may be met with. Some grass is scattered over the surface of the central elevated region, and the whole much resembles the worse parts of the Welsh mountains. But, scanty as the pasture appears, about six hundred sheep, many goats, a few cows and horses, all thrive well on it. Of native animals, land-crabs and rats swarm in numbers. Whether the rat is really indigenous may well be doubted; there are two varieties as described by Mr. Waterhouse; one is of a black colour, with fine glossy fur, and lives on the grassy summit, the other is brown-coloured and less glossy, with longer hairs, and lives near the settlement on the coast. Both these varieties are one-third smaller than the common black rat (M. rattus); and they differ from it both in the colour and character of their fur, but in no other essential respect. I can hardly doubt that these rats (like the common mouse, which has also run wild) have been imported, and, as at the Galapagos, have varied from the effect of the new conditions to which they have been exposed: hence the variety on the summit of the island differs from that on the coast. Of native birds there are none; but the guinea-fowl, imported from the Cape de Verd Islands, is abundant, and the common fowl has likewise run wild. Some cats which were originally turned out to destroy the rats and mice, have increased, so as to become a great plague. The island is entirely without trees, in which, and in every other respect, it is very far inferior to St. Helena.

One of my excursions took me towards the south-west extremity of the island. The day was clear and hot, and I saw the island, not smiling with beauty, but staring with naked hideousness. The lava streams are covered with hummocks, and are rugged to a degree which, geologically speaking, is not of easy explanation. The intervening spaces are concealed with layers of pumice, ashes and volcanic tuff. Whilst passing this end of the island at sea, I could not imagine what the white patches were with which the whole plain was mottled; I now found that they were sea-fowl, sleeping in such full confidence, that even in mid-day a man could walk up and seize hold of them. These birds were the only living creatures I saw during the whole day. On the beach a great surf, although the breeze was light, came tumbling over the broken lava rocks.

Cellular formation of volcanic bomb

The geology of this island is in many respects interesting. In several places I noticed volcanic bombs, that is, masses of lava which have been shot through the air whilst fluid, and have consequently assumed a spherical or pear-shape. Not only their external form, but, in several cases, their internal structure shows in a very curious manner that they have revolved in their aërial course. The internal structure of one of these bombs, when broken, is represented very accurately in Plate 103. The central part is coarsely cellular, the cells decreasing in size towards the exterior; where there is a shell-like case about the third of an inch in thickness, of compact stone, which again is overlaid by the outside crust of finely cellular lava. I think there can be little doubt, first, that the external crust cooled rapidly in the state in which we now see it; secondly, that the still fluid lava within was packed by the centrifugal force generated by the revolving of the bomb, against the external cooled crust, and so produced the solid shell of stone; and lastly, that the centrifugal force, by relieving the pressure in the more central parts of the bomb, allowed the heated vapours to expand their cells, thus forming the coarse cellular mass of the centre.

A hill formed of the older series of volcanic rocks, and which has been incorrectly considered as the crater of a volcano, is remarkable from its broad, slightly hollowed, and circular summit having been filled up with many successive layers of ashes and fine scoriæ. These saucer-shaped layers crop out on the margin, forming perfect rings of many different colours, giving to the summit a most fantastic appearance; one of these rings is white and broad, and resembles a course round which horses have been exercised; hence the hill has been called the Devil’s Riding School. I brought away specimens of one of the tufaceous layers of a pinkish colour and it is a most extraordinary fact that Professor Ehrenberg[5] finds it almost wholly composed of matter which has been organised; he detects in it some siliceous-shielded, fresh-water infusoria, and no less than twenty-five different kinds of the siliceous tissue of plants, chiefly of grasses. From the absence of all carbonaceous matter, Professor Ehrenberg believes that these organic bodies have passed through the volcanic fire, and have been erupted in the state in which we now see them. The appearance of the layers induced me to believe that they had been deposited under water, though from the extreme dryness of the climate I was forced to imagine that torrents of rain had probably fallen during some great eruption, and that thus a temporary lake had been formed into which the ashes fell. But it may now be suspected that the lake was not a temporary one. Anyhow we may feel sure that at some former epoch the climate and productions of Ascension were very different from what they now are. Where on the face of the earth can we find a spot on which close investigation will not discover signs of that endless cycle of change, to which this earth has been, is, and will be subjected?

[5] _Monats. der König. Akad. d. Wiss. zu Berlin,_ Vom April 1845.

On leaving Ascension, we sailed for Bahia, on the coast of Brazil, in order to complete the chronometrical measurement of the world. We arrived there on August 1st, and stayed four days, during which I took several long walks. I was glad to find my enjoyment in tropical scenery had not decreased from the want of novelty, even in the slightest degree. The elements of the scenery are so simple that they are worth mentioning, as a proof on what trifling circumstances exquisite natural beauty depends.

The country may be described as a level plain of about three hundred feet in elevation, which in all parts has been worn into flat-bottomed valleys. This structure is remarkable in a granitic land, but is nearly universal in all those softer formations of which plains are usually composed. The whole surface is covered by various kinds of stately trees, interspersed with patches of cultivated ground, out of which houses, convents, and chapels arise. It must be remembered that within the tropics the wild luxuriance of nature is not lost even in the vicinity of large cities: for the natural vegetation of the hedges and hill-sides overpowers in picturesque effect the artificial labour of man. Hence, there are only a few spots where the bright red soil affords a strong contrast with the universal clothing of green. From the edges of the plain there are distant views either of the ocean, or of the great Bay with its low-wooded shores, and on which numerous boats and canoes show their white sails. Excepting from these points, the scene is extremely limited; following the level pathways, on each hand, only glimpses into the wooded valleys below can be obtained. The houses I may add, and especially the sacred edifices, are built in a peculiar and rather fantastic style of architecture. They are all whitewashed; so that when illumined by the brilliant sun of mid-day, and as seen against the pale blue sky of the horizon, they stand out more like shadows than real buildings.

Such are the elements of the scenery, but it is a hopeless attempt to paint the general effect. Learned naturalists describe these scenes of the tropics by naming a multitude of objects, and mentioning some characteristic feature of each. To a learned traveller this possibly may communicate some definite ideas: but who else from seeing a plant in an herbarium can imagine its appearance when growing in its native soil? Who from seeing choice plants in a hothouse can magnify some into the dimensions of forest trees, and crowd others into an entangled jungle? Who when examining in the cabinet of the entomologist the gay exotic butterflies, and singular cicadas, will associate with these lifeless objects the ceaseless harsh music of the latter and the lazy flight of the former,—the sure accompaniments of the still, glowing noonday of the tropics? It is when the sun has attained its greatest height that such scenes should be viewed: then the dense splendid foliage of the mango hides the ground with its darkest shade, whilst the upper branches are rendered from the profusion of light of the most brilliant green. In the temperate zones the case is different—the vegetation there is not so dark or so rich, and hence the rays of the declining sun, tinged of a red, purple, or bright yellow colour, add most to the beauties of those climes.

When quietly walking along the shady pathways, and admiring each successive view, I wished to find language to express my ideas. Epithet after epithet was found too weak to convey to those who have not visited the intertropical regions the sensation of delight which the mind experiences. I have said that the plants in a hothouse fail to communicate a just idea of the vegetation, yet I must recur to it. The land is one great wild, untidy, luxuriant hothouse, made by Nature for herself, but taken possession of by man, who has studded it with gay houses and formal gardens. How great would be the desire in every admirer of nature to behold, if such were possible, the scenery of another planet! yet to every person in Europe, it may be truly said, that at the distance of only a few degrees from his native soil the glories of another world are opened to him. In my last walk I stopped again and again to gaze on these beauties, and endeavoured to fix in my mind for ever an impression which at the time I knew sooner or later must fail. The form of the orange-tree, the cocoa-nut, the palm, the mango, the tree-fern, the banana, will remain clear and separate; but the thousand beauties which unite these into one perfect scene must fade away: yet they will leave, like a tale heard in childhood, a picture full of indistinct, but most beautiful figures.

_August_ 6_th._—In the afternoon we stood out to sea, with the intention of making a direct course to the Cape de Verd Islands. Unfavourable winds, however, delayed us, and on the 12th we ran into Pernambuco,—a large city on the coast of Brazil, in latitude 8° south. We anchored outside the reef; but in a short time a pilot came on board and took us into the inner harbour, where we lay close to the town.

Pernambuco is built on some narrow and low sand-banks which are separated from each other by shoal channels of salt water. The three parts of the town are connected together by two long bridges built on wooden piles. The town is in all parts disgusting, the streets being narrow, ill-paved, and filthy; the houses tall and gloomy. The season of heavy rains had hardly come to an end, and hence the surrounding country, which is scarcely raised above the level of the sea, was flooded with water; and I failed in all my attempts to take long walks.

The flat swampy land on which Pernambuco stands is surrounded, at the distance of a few miles, by a semicircle of low hills, or rather by the edge of a country elevated perhaps two hundred feet above the sea. The old city of Olinda stands on one extremity of this range. One day I took a canoe, and proceeded up one of the channels to visit it; I found the old town from its situation both sweeter and cleaner than that of Pernambuco. I must here commemorate what happened for the first time during our nearly five years’ wandering, namely, having met with a want of politeness; I was refused in a sullen manner at two different houses, and obtained with difficulty from a third, permission to pass through their gardens to an uncultivated hill, for the purpose of viewing the country. I feel glad that this happened in the land of the Brazilians, for I bear them no good will—a land also of slavery, and therefore of moral debasement. A Spaniard would have felt ashamed at the very thought of refusing such a request, or of behaving to a stranger with rudeness. The channel by which we went to and returned from Olinda was bordered on each side by mangroves, which sprang like a miniature forest out of the greasy mud-banks. The bright green colour of these bushes always reminded me of the rank grass in a churchyard: both are nourished by putrid exhalations; the one speaks of death past, and the other too often of death to come.

Cicada Homoptera

The most curious object which I saw in this neighbourhood was the reef that forms the harbour. I doubt whether in the whole world any other natural structure has so artificial an appearance.[6] It runs for a length of several miles in an absolutely straight line, parallel to and not far distant from the shore. It varies in width from thirty to sixty yards, and its surface is level and smooth; it is composed of obscurely-stratified hard sandstone. At high water the waves break over it; at low water its summit is left dry, and it might then be mistaken for a breakwater erected by Cyclopean workmen. On this coast the currents of the sea tend to throw up in front of the land long spits and bars of loose sand, and on one of these part of the town of Pernambuco stands. In former times a long spit of this nature seems to have become consolidated by the percolation of calcareous matter, and afterwards to have been gradually upheaved; the outer and loose parts during this process having been worn away by the action of the sea, and the solid nucleus left as we now see it. Although night and day the waves of the open Atlantic, turbid with sediment, are driven against the steep outside edges of this wall of stone, yet the oldest pilots know of no tradition of any change in its appearance. This durability is much the most curious fact in its history: it is due to a tough layer, a few inches thick, of calcareous matter, wholly formed by the successive growth and death of the small shells of Serpulæ, together with some few barnacles and nulliporæ. These nulliporæ, which are hard, very simply-organised sea-plants, play an analogous and important part in protecting the upper surfaces of coral-reefs, behind and within the breakers, where the true corals, during the outward growth of the mass, become killed by exposure to the sun and air. These insignificant organic beings, especially the Serpulæ, have done good service to the people of Pernambuco; for without their protective aid the bar of sandstone would inevitably have been long ago worn away and without the bar, there would have been no harbour.

[6] I have described this Bar in detail in the _ Lond. and Edin. Phil. Mag._ vol. xix, (1841) p. 257.

On the 19th of August we finally left the shores of Brazil. I thank God, I shall never again visit a slave-country. To this day, if I hear a distant scream, it recalls with painful vividness my feelings, when passing a house near Pernambuco, I heard the most pitiable moans, and could not but suspect that some poor slave was being tortured, yet knew that I was as powerless as a child even to remonstrate. I suspected that these moans were from a tortured slave, for I was told that this was the case in another instance. Near Rio de Janeiro I lived opposite to an old lady, who kept screws to crush the fingers of her female slaves. I have stayed in a house where a young household mulatto, daily and hourly, was reviled, beaten, and persecuted enough to break the spirit of the lowest animal. I have seen a little boy, six or seven years old, struck thrice with a horse-whip (before I could interfere) on his naked head, for having handed me a glass of water not quite clean; I saw his father tremble at a mere glance from his master’s eye. These latter cruelties were witnessed by me in a Spanish colony, in which it has always been said that slaves are better treated than by the Portuguese, English, or other European nations. I have seen at Rio de Janeiro a powerful negro afraid to ward off a blow directed, as he thought, at his face. I was present when a kind-hearted man was on the point of separating forever the men, women, and little children of a large number of families who had long lived together. I will not even allude to the many heart-sickening atrocities which I authentically heard of;—nor would I have mentioned the above revolting details, had I not met with several people, so blinded by the constitutional gaiety of the negro as to speak of slavery as a tolerable evil. Such people have generally visited at the houses of the upper classes, where the domestic slaves are usually well treated, and they have not, like myself, lived amongst the lower classes. Such inquirers will ask slaves about their condition; they forget that the slave must indeed be dull who does not calculate on the chance of his answer reaching his master’s ears.

Homeward bound

It is argued that self-interest will prevent excessive cruelty; as if self-interest protected our domestic animals, which are far less likely than degraded slaves to stir up the rage of their savage masters. It is an argument long since protested against with noble feeling, and strikingly exemplified, by the ever-illustrious Humboldt. It is often attempted to palliate slavery by comparing the state of slaves with our poorer countrymen: if the misery of our poor be caused not by the laws of nature, but by our institutions, great is our sin; but how this bears on slavery, I cannot see; as well might the use of the thumb-screw be defended in one land, by showing that men in another land suffered from some dreadful disease. Those who look tenderly at the slave owner, and with a cold heart at the slave, never seem to put themselves into the position of the latter;—what a cheerless prospect, with not even a hope of change! picture to yourself the chance, ever hanging over you, of your wife and your little children—those objects which nature urges even the slave to call his own—being torn from you and sold like beasts to the first bidder! And these deeds are done and palliated by men who profess to love their neighbours as themselves, who believe in God, and pray that His Will be done on earth! It makes one’s blood boil, yet heart tremble, to think that we Englishmen and our American descendants, with their boastful cry of liberty, have been and are so guilty; but it is a consolation to reflect, that we at least have made a greater sacrifice than ever made by any nation, to expiate our sin.

On the last day of August we anchored for the second time at Porto Praya in the Cape de Verd archipelago; thence we proceeded to the Azores, where we stayed six days. On the 2nd of October we made the shores of England; and at Falmouth I left the _Beagle_, having lived on board the good little vessel nearly five years.

Our Voyage having come to an end, I will take a short retrospect of the advantages and disadvantages, the pains and pleasures, of our circumnavigation of the world. If a person asked my advice, before undertaking a long voyage, my answer would depend upon his possessing a decided taste for some branch of knowledge, which could by this means be advanced. No doubt it is a high satisfaction to behold various countries and the many races of mankind, but the pleasures gained at the time do not counterbalance the evils. It is necessary to look forward to a harvest, however distant that may be, when some fruit will be reaped, some good effected.

Many of the losses which must be experienced are obvious; such as that of the society of every old friend, and of the sight of those places with which every dearest remembrance is so intimately connected. These losses, however, are at the time partly relieved by the exhaustless delight of anticipating the long-wished-for day of return. If, as poets say, life is a dream, I am sure in a voyage these are the visions which best serve to pass away the long night. Other losses, although not at first felt, tell heavily after a period: these are the want of room, of seclusion, of rest; the jading feeling of constant hurry; the privation of small luxuries, the loss of domestic society and even of music and the other pleasures of imagination. When such trifles are mentioned, it is evident that the real grievances, excepting from accidents, of a sea-life are at an end. The short space of sixty years has made an astonishing difference in the facility of distant navigation. Even in the time of Cook, a man who left his fireside for such expeditions underwent severe privations. A yacht now, with every luxury of life, can circumnavigate the globe. Besides the vast improvements in ships and naval resources, the whole western shores of America are thrown open, and Australia has become the capital of a rising continent. How different are the circumstances to a man shipwrecked at the present day in the Pacific, to what they were in the time of Cook! Since his voyage a hemisphere has been added to the civilised world.

If a person suffer much from sea-sickness, let him weigh it heavily in the balance. I speak from experience: it is no trifling evil, cured in a week. If, on the other hand, he take pleasure in naval tactics, he will assuredly have full scope for his taste. But it must be borne in mind how large a proportion of the time, during a long voyage, is spent on the water, as compared with the days in harbour. And what are the boasted glories of the illimitable ocean? A tedious waste, a desert of water, as the Arabian calls it. No doubt there are some delightful scenes. A moonlight night, with the clear heavens and the dark glittering sea, and the white sails filled by the soft air of a gently-blowing trade-wind, a dead calm, with the heaving surface polished like a mirror, and all still except the occasional flapping of the canvas. It is well once to behold a squall with its rising arch and coming fury, or the heavy gale of wind and mountainous waves. I confess, however, my imagination had painted something more grand, more terrific, in the full-grown storm. It is an incomparably finer spectacle when beheld on shore, where the waving trees, the wild flight of the birds, the dark shadows and bright lights, the rushing of the torrents, all proclaim the strife of the unloosed elements. At sea the albatross and little petrel fly as if the storm were their proper sphere, the water rises and sinks as if fulfilling its usual task, the ship alone and its inhabitants seem the objects of wrath. On a forlorn and weather-beaten coast the scene is indeed different, but the feelings partake more of horror than of wild delight.

Let us now look at the brighter side of the past time. The pleasure derived from beholding the scenery and the general aspect of the various countries we have visited has decidedly been the most constant and highest source of enjoyment. It is probable that the picturesque beauty of many parts of Europe exceeds anything which we beheld. But there is a growing pleasure in comparing the character of the scenery in different countries, which to a certain degree is distinct from merely admiring its beauty. It depends chiefly on an acquaintance with the individual parts of each view; I am strongly induced to believe that as in music, the person who understands every note will, if he also possesses a proper taste, more thoroughly enjoy the whole, so he who examines each part of a fine view may also thoroughly comprehend the full and combined effect. Hence, a traveller should be a botanist, for in all views plants form the chief embellishment. Group masses of naked rock even in the wildest forms, and they may for a time afford a sublime spectacle, but they will soon grow monotonous. Paint them with bright and varied colours, as in Northern Chile, they will become fantastic; clothe them with vegetation, they must form a decent, if not a beautiful picture.

When I say that the scenery of parts of Europe is probably superior to anything which we beheld, I except, as a class by itself, that of the intertropical zones. The two classes cannot be compared together; but I have already often enlarged on the grandeur of those regions. As the force of impressions generally depends on preconceived ideas, I may add that mine were taken from the vivid descriptions in the _Personal Narrative_ of Humboldt, which far exceed in merit anything else which I have read. Yet with these high-wrought ideas, my feelings were far from partaking of a tinge of disappointment on my first and final landing on the shores of Brazil.

Among the scenes which are deeply impressed on my mind, none exceed in sublimity the primeval forests undefaced by the hand of man; whether those of Brazil, where the powers of Life are predominant, or those of Tierra del Fuego, where Death and Decay prevail. Both are temples filled with the varied productions of the God of Nature:—no one can stand in these solitudes unmoved, and not feel that there is more in man than the mere breath of his body. In calling up images of the past, I find that the plains of Patagonia frequently cross before my eyes; yet these plains are pronounced by all wretched and useless. They can be described only by negative characters; without habitations, without water, without trees, without mountains, they support merely a few dwarf plants. Why, then, and the case is not peculiar to myself, have these arid wastes taken so firm a hold on my memory? Why have not the still more level, the greener and more fertile Pampas, which are serviceable to mankind, produced an equal impression? I can scarcely analyse these feelings: but it must be partly owing to the free scope given to the imagination. The plains of Patagonia are boundless, for they are scarcely passable, and hence unknown: they bear the stamp of having lasted, as they are now, for ages, and there appears no limit to their duration through future time. If, as the ancients supposed, the flat earth was surrounded by an impassable breadth of water, or by deserts heated to an intolerable excess, who would not look at these last boundaries to man’s knowledge with deep but ill-defined sensations?

Lastly, of natural scenery, the views from lofty mountains, though certainly in one sense not beautiful, are very memorable. When looking down from the highest crest of the Cordillera, the mind, undisturbed by minute details, was filled with the stupendous dimensions of the surrounding masses.

Of individual objects, perhaps nothing is more certain to create astonishment than the first sight in his native haunt of a barbarian,—of man in his lowest and most savage state. One’s mind hurries back over past centuries, and then asks, Could our progenitors have been men like these?—men, whose very signs and expressions are less intelligible to us than those of the domesticated animals; men, who do not possess the instinct of those animals, nor yet appear to boast of human reason, or at least of arts consequent on that reason. I do not believe it is possible to describe or paint the difference between savage and civilised man. It is the difference between a wild and tame animal: and part of the interest in beholding a savage is the same which would lead every one to desire to see the lion in his desert, the tiger tearing his prey in the jungle, or the rhinoceros wandering over the wild plains of Africa.

Among the other most remarkable spectacles which we have beheld, may be ranked the Southern Cross, the cloud of Magellan, and the other constellations of the southern hemisphere—the waterspout—the glacier leading its blue stream of ice, overhanging the sea in a bold precipice—a lagoon-island raised by the reef-building corals—an active volcano—and the overwhelming effects of a violent earthquake. These latter phenomena, perhaps, possess for me a peculiar interest, from their intimate connexion with the geological structure of the world. The earthquake, however, must be to every one a most impressive event: the earth, considered from our earliest childhood as the type of solidity, has oscillated like a thin crust beneath our feet; and in seeing the laboured works of man in a moment overthrown, we feel the insignificance of his boasted power.

It has been said that the love of the chase is an inherent delight in man—a relic of an instinctive passion. If so, I am sure the pleasure of living in the open air, with the sky for a roof and the ground for a table, is part of the same feeling; it is the savage returning to his wild and native habits. I always look back to our boat cruises, and my land journeys, when through unfrequented countries, with an extreme delight, which no scenes of civilisation could have created. I do not doubt that every traveller must remember the glowing sense of happiness which he experienced when he first breathed in a foreign clime where the civilised man had seldom or never trod.

There are several other sources of enjoyment in a long voyage which are of a more reasonable nature. The map of the world ceases to be a blank; it becomes a picture full of the most varied and animated figures. Each part assumes its proper dimensions: continents are not looked at in the light of islands, or islands considered as mere specks, which are, in truth, larger than many kingdoms of Europe. Africa, or North and South America, are well-sounding names, and easily pronounced; but it is not until having sailed for weeks along small portions of their shores, that one is thoroughly convinced what vast spaces on our immense world these names imply.

From seeing the present state, it is impossible not to look forward with high expectations to the future progress of nearly an entire hemisphere. The march of improvement, consequent on the introduction of Christianity throughout the South Sea, probably stands by itself in the records of history. It is the more striking when we remember that only sixty years since, Cook, whose excellent judgment none will dispute, could foresee no prospect of a change. Yet these changes have now been effected by the philanthropic spirit of the British nation.

In the same quarter of the globe Australia is rising, or indeed may be said to have risen, into a grand centre of civilisation, which, at some not very remote period, will rule as empress over the southern hemisphere. It is impossible for an Englishman to behold these distant colonies without a high pride and satisfaction. To hoist the British flag seems to draw with it as a certain consequence, wealth, prosperity, and civilisation.

In conclusion it appears to me that nothing can be more improving to a young naturalist than a journey in distant countries. It both sharpens and partly allays that want and craving, which, as Sir J. Herschel remarks, a man experiences although every corporeal sense be fully satisfied. The excitement from the novelty of objects, and the chance of success, stimulate him to increased activity. Moreover, as a number of isolated facts soon become uninteresting, the habit of comparison leads to generalisation. On the other hand, as the traveller stays but a short time in each place, his descriptions must generally consist of mere sketches, instead of detailed observations. Hence arises, as I have found to my cost, a constant tendency to fill up the wide gaps of knowledge by inaccurate and superficial hypotheses.

But I have too deeply enjoyed the voyage, not to recommend any naturalist, although he must not expect to be so fortunate in his companions as I have been, to take all chances, and to start, on travels by land if possible, if otherwise, on a long voyage. He may feel assured he will meet with no difficulties or dangers, excepting in rare cases, nearly so bad as he beforehand anticipates. In a moral point of view the effect ought to be to teach him good-humoured patience, freedom from selfishness, the habit of acting for himself, and of making the best of every occurrence. In short, he ought to partake of the characteristic qualities of most sailors. Travelling ought also to teach him distrust; but at the same time he will discover how many truly kind-hearted people there are, with whom he never before had, or ever again will have any further communication, who yet are ready to offer him the most disinterested assistance.

Ascension. Terns and noddies

List of Illustrations

H.M.S. _Beagle_ in Straits of Magellan. Mt. Sarmiento in the distance. H.M.S. _Beagle_ under full sail, view from astern. H.M.S. _Beagle_: Middle section fore and aft, upper deck, 1832. Fernando Noronha. Incrustation of shelly sand. Diodon Maculatus (Distended and Contracted). Pelagic Confervæ. Catamaran (Bahia). Botofogo Bay, Rio Janeiro. Vampire Bat (Desmodus D’Orbigny). Virgin Forest. Cabbage Palm. Mandioca or Cassava. Rio Janeiro. Darwin’s Papilio Feronia, 1833, now called Ageronia feronia, 1889. Hydrochærus capybara or Water-hog. Recado or Surcingle of Gaucho. Halt at a Pulperia on the Pampas. El Carmen, or Patagones, Rio Negro. Brazilian whips. Brazilian hobbles and spurs. Bringing in a prisoner. Irregular troops. Skinning uji or water serpents. Rhea Darwinii (Avestruz Petise). Landing at Buenos Ayres. Maté pots and bambillio. Giant thistle of pampas. Cynara Cardunculus or Cardoon. Evening camp, Buenos Ayres. Rozario. Parana River. Toxodon Platensis. (Found at Saladillo.) Fossil tooth of horse. (From Bahia Blanca.) Mylodon. Head of Scissor-beak. Rhynchops Nigra, or Scissor-beak. Buenos Ayres bullock-waggons. Fuegians and wigwams. Opuntia Darwinii. Raised beaches, Patagonia. Ladies’ combs, banda oriental. Condor (Sarcorhamphus gryphus). Basaltic Glen, Santa Cruz. Berkeley Sound, Falkland Islands. York Minster (Bearing S. 66° east.) Cape Horn. Cape Horn (another view). Bad weather, Magellan Straits. Fuegian basket and bone weapons. False Horn, Cape Horn. Wollaston Island, Tierra del Fuego. Patagonians from Cape Gregory. Port Famine, Magellan. Patagonian Bolas. Patagonian Spurs and Pipe. Cyttaria Darwinii. Eyre Sound. Glacier in Gulf of Penas. Flora of Magellan. Macrocystis Pyrifera, or Magellan Kelp. Trochilus Forficatus. Hacienda, condor, cactus, etc. Chilian miner. Cactus (Cereus Peruviana). Cordilleras from Santiago de Chile. Chilian spurs, stirrup, etc. Old Church, Castro, Chiloe. Inside Chonos Archipelago. Gunnera Scabra, Chiloe. Antuco Volcano, near Talcahuano. Panoramic view of coast, Chiloe. Inside Island of Chiloe. San Carlos. Hide Bridge, Santiago de Chile. Chilenos. South American bit. Bridge of the Incas, Uspallata Pass. Lima and San Lorenzo. Coquimbo, Chile. Huacas, Peruvian pottery. Testudo Abingdonii, Galapagos Islands. Galapagos Archipelago. Finches from Galapagos Archipelago. Amblyrhynchus Cristatus. Opuntia Galapageia. Ava or Kava (Macropiper methysticum), Tahiti. Eimeo and Barrier-Reef. Fatahua Fall, Tahiti. Tahitian. Hippah, New Zealand. Sydney, 1835. Hobart Town and Mount Wellington. Australian group of weapons and throwing sticks. Inside an atoll, Keeling Island. Whitsunday Island. Barrier-reef, Bolabola. Sections of barrier-reefs. Section of coral-reef. Section of coral-reef. Bolabola Island. Corals. Birgos Latro, Keeling Island. St. Louis, Mauritius. St. Helena. Cellular formation of volcanic bomb. Cicada Homoptera. Homeward bound. Ascension. Terns and noddies.

Index

ABBOTT, Mr., on spiders, 36 Aborigines banished from Van Diemen’s Land, 475 of Australia, 430 to 458 Abrolhos Islands, 9, 14 Absence of trees in Pampas, 48 Aconcagua, volcano of, 269, 294, 312 Actinia, stinging species, 494 Africa, Southern part desert, yet supports large animals, 89 Ageronia feronia, 39 Agouti, habits of, 72 Ague common in Peru, 389 Albemarle Island, 401, 420 Allan, Dr., on Diodon, 14 on Holuthuriæ, 494 Alluvium, saliferous, in Peru, 367 stratified, in Andes, 333 Amblyrhynchus, 401, 411 Anas, species of, 210 Animalculæ. _See_ Infusoria Antarctic islands, 263 Antipodes, 444 Ants at Keeling Island, 485 in Brazil, 36 Antuco volcano, 311 Apires, or miners 364 Aplysia, 6, 493 Apple-trees, 318 Aptenodytes demersa, 209 Araucanian Indians, 66 Areas of alternate movements in the Pacific and Indian oceans, 480 Armadilloes, habits of, 110 fossil animals allied to, 137, 164 Arqueros mines, 369 Arrow-heads, ancient, 109, 381 Ascension, 522, 538 Aspalax, blindness of, 53 Athene cunicularia, 73, 132 Atolls, 490, 495 Attagis, 98 Atwater, Mr., on the prairies, 124 Audubon, M., on smelling-power of carrion-hawks, 195 Australia, 459 Australian barrier, 499 group of weapons, 480 Ava (Macropiper methysticum), 428, 436 Azara on spiders, 39 on rain in La Plata, 49 on habits of carrion-hawks, 58 on range of carrion-hawks, 60 on a thunder-storm, 65 on ostrich-eggs, 95 on bows and arrows, 110 on new plants springing up, 125 on great droughts, 142 on hydrophobia, 378 BACHMAN, Mr., on carrion-hawks, 195 Bahia Blanca, 50, 70, 77 to 110 fossil tooth of horse from, 138 Bahia, Brazil, 11 scenery of, 526 Bajada, 136 Balbi on coral reefs, 499 Bald Head, Australia, 479 Ballenar, Chile, 373 Banda Oriental, 48, 152, 158, 186 Banks’s Hill, 221 Barking-bird, 307 Barrier-reef, Bolabola, 498 reefs, sections of, 500 Basaltic platform of Santa Cruz, 182 Bathurst, Australia, 470 Batrachian reptiles, 101 Bats, vampire, 22, 23 Bay of Islands, New Zealand, 444 Beads, hill of, 158 Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego, 230 Beech-trees, 251, 292 Beetles in brackish water, 22 on a fungus, 32 alive in sea, 168 at St. Julian, 180 dung-feeders, 520, 521 Behring’s Straits, fossils of, 140 Bell of Quillota, 270 Benchuca, 352 Berkeley Sound, 199, 214 Rev. J., on Confervæ, 15 on Cyttaria, 250 Berquelo river, 158 Bibron, M., 407 Bien te veo, 56 Birds of the Galapagos Archipelago, 405 tameness of, 424 Birgos latro, 492, 512 Bizcacha, habits of, 73, 130, 273 Blackheath, Australia, 466 Blackwall, Mr., on spiders, 171 Blindness of tucutuco, 53 Blue Mountains, 465 Body, frozen, 93, 263 Bolabola, barrier-reef, 498, 504 Bolas, manner of using, 46, 117 Bombs, volcanic, 524 Bones of the guanaco collected in certain spots, 177 fire made of, 205 recent in Pampas, 142 fossil, 86, 134, 137, 164, 182 Bory St. Vincent on frogs, 407 Boulders, 197, 262 Bramador, El, 358 Brazil, great area of granite, 12 Brazilian whips, etc., 75 Breaches in coral reefs, 502 Breakwater of seaweed, 253 Brewster, Sir D., on a calcareous deposit, 10 Bridge of hide, 334 of Incas, 357, 380, 394 Buckland, Dr., on fossils, 140 Buenos Ayres, 127 trading at, 111 evening camp, 128 bullock-waggons, 150 Buffon on American Animals, 183 Bug of Pampas, 352 Buildings, Indian, 381 to 383, 394 Bulimus on desert places, 371 Burchell, Mr., on food of quadrupeds, 91 on ostrich-eggs, 95 on perforated stones, 285 Butterflies, flocks of, 167 Butterfly producing clicking sound, 34 Button, Jemmy, 218 Byron’s account of fox of Falklands, 204 on an Indian killing his child, 228 CABBAGE PALM, 26 Cacti, 174, 278, 399 Cactornis, 405, 424 Cactus, Cereus Peruviana, 278 Calasoma on wing out at sea, 168 Calcareous casts of branches and roots of trees at King George’s Sound, 479 incrustations on rocks of Ascension, 9 Callao, 389, 391 Calodera, 132 Calomys bizcacha, 130 Camarhynchus, 405, 424 Camelidæ, fossil animal allied to, 182 Cancer salinus, 69 Canis antarcticus, 204 fulvipes, 287 Cape Horn, 222, 223 False Horn, 229, 243 of Good Hope, 91 Capybara, or carpincho, 40, 51, 182, 307 fossil allied to, 87 Caracara, or Carrancha, 57 Cardoon, beds of, 125, 157 Carizal, 371 Carmichael, Capt., 426 Carrion-hawks, 59, 126, 195 Casarita, 99 Cassava, 23 Castro, Chiloe, 296, 315 old church at, 291 Casuchas, 358 Catamaran, 18 Cathartes, 60, 195 Cats run wild, 123, 523 good to eat, 123 scratch trees, 144 cruelty to mice, 209 Cattle, effects of their grazing on the vegetation, 124 killed by great droughts, 142, 156 know each other, 155 curious breed of, 155 waste of, 158 wild at the Falkland Islands, 200, 203 Caucahue, 295 Cauquenes, hot springs of, 281 Causes of extinction of species among mammalia, 182 of discoloured sea, 15 Cavia Patagonica, 72 Cawa-Cawa, New Zealand, 456 Caylen, 298 Cervus campestris, 50 Ceryle Americana, 147 Chacao, Chiloe, 293 Chagos atolls, 508 Chalk-like mud, 494 Chamisso on drifted seeds and trees, 484, 491 on coral reefs, 496 Changes in vegetation of Pampas, 126 in vegetation of St. Helena, 519 Charles Island, 400, 420 Chatham Island, 399, 420 Cheese, salt required for, 68 Cheucau, 297, 307 Chile, 268, 271, 274 features of country, 270 Chilenos, 194, 337 Chilian miner, 277 spurs, stirrup, etc, 290 vegetation, 359 Chiloe, 291 old church at castro, 291 forests of, and climate, 292 inhabitants of, 292, 294 roads of, 293, 313, 314 Gunnera scabra, 310 Chionis alba, 98 Cholechel, conflict at, 109 Chonos Archipelago, 300, 304 climate of, 292 zoology of, 306 ornithology of, 307 Chupat, Rio, 110 Chuzo, 66 Cicada homoptera, 529 Cladonia, 387 Clearness of atmosphere within Andes, in Chile, 271 Climate of Tierra del Fuego and Falkland Islands, 257 Antarctic Islands, 263 change of, in Chile, 382 Galapagos, 397 Clouds of vapour after rain, 25 on Corcovado, 30 hanging low, 389 at sea, 429 Coleoptera in Tropics, 35 out at sea, 168 of St. Julian, 180 Colias edusa, flocks of, 168 Colnett, Capt., on spawn in sea, 17 on a marine lizard, 411 on transport of seeds, 418 Colonia del Sacramiento, 153 Colorado, Rio, 73 Compound animals, 211 Concepcion, Chile, 325 Conchalee, 362 Condor, habits of, 193, 196, 287 (Sarcorhamphus gryphus), 187 Confervæ, pelagic, 15 Conglomerate on the Ventana, 113 in Cordillera, 342 Conurus, 147 Convicts of Mauritius, 514 condition, in New South Wales, 473 Cook, Capt., on kelp, 253 Copiapó, river and valley of, 366, 370, 375, 385 town of, 374, 378 Coquimbo, 22, 365 Coral formations, 429, 502 to 509 stinging species of, 493 reefs, sections of, 502, 508 dead, 508 Corallines, 207 Corals, 507 Corcovado, clouds on, 30 volcano, 304 Cordillera, appearance of, 269, 292, 337 different productions on east and west side, 345 passage of, 334 structure of valleys, 335 rivers of, 338 geology of, 339, 354, 355 valley of Copiapó, 385 mountains, 435 Cormorant catching fish, 209 Corral, where animals are slaughtered at Buenos Ayres, 127 Corrientes, Cape, 168 Corrobery, or native Australian dance, 479 Corunda, 135 Coseguina, eruption of, 312, 376 Countries, unhealthy, 389 Couthouy, Mr., on coral-reefs, 504 Crabberies, 83 Crabs, hermit species of, 486 at St. Paul’s, 10 at Keeling Island, 492 Craters, number of, at the Galapagos Archipelago, 398 of Elevation, 515 Crisia, 211 Cruelty to animals, 162 Crustacea, pelagic, 171 Ctenomys Brasiliensis, 52 fossil species of, 86 Cucao, Chiloe, 315 Cuckoo-like habits of Molothrus, 55 Cudico, mission at, 320 Cuentas, Sierra de, 158 Cufre, 153 Cumbre of Cordillera, 358 Cuming, Mr., on shells, 416, 520 Cuttlefish, habits of, 7 Cuvier on Diodon, 14 Cynara cardunculus, 125 Cyttaria Darwinii, 250, 251 DACELO IAGOENSIS, 2 Dasypus, three species of, 100 Deer, 50, 139 Degradation of tertiary formations, 368 Deinornis, 455 Deserts, 371, 384 Desmodus, 22 Despoblado, valley of, 379 Dieffenbach, Dr., E., 2 on Auckland Island, 259, 464 Diodon, habits of, 13 Discoloured sea, 15 Diseases from miasma, 389, 464 Distribution of mammalia in America, 138 of animals on opposite sides of Cordillera, 348 of frogs, 407 of Fauna of Galapagos, 419 Dobrizhoffer on ostriches, 98 on a hail-storm, 122 Docks, imported, 455 Dogs, shepherd, 159 Dolichonyx oryzivorus, 404 D’Orbigny, Travels in South America, 81, 97, 125, 137, 159, 177 Doris, eggs of, 211 Dormidor, or horse-tamer, 160 Doubleday, Mr., on a noise made by a butterfly, 34 Drigg, lightning tubes at, 61 Droughts, great, in Pampas, 141 Dryness of St. Jago, 4 of winds in Tierra del Fuego, 245 of air in Cordillera, 348 Dubois, 407 Dung-feeding beetles, 520, 521 Dust, falling from atmosphere, 5 EARTHENWARE, fossil, 394 Earthquake, accompanied by an elevation of the coast, 331 accompanied by rain, 375 at Callao, 393 at Concepcion, 325 at Coquimbo, 366 at Keeling and Vanikoro, and Society Islands, 504 at Valdivia, 322 causes of, 330 effect of, on springs, 281 on bottom of sea, 327 effects of, on rocks, 274, 324 effects of, on sea, 323, 324, 325 effects of, on a river-bed, 381 line of vibration of, 328 on S.W. coast, 260 tossing fragments from the ground, 208 twisting movement of, 328 Eggs of Doris, 211 Ehrenberg, Prof., on Atlantic dust, 5 on infusoria in Pampas, 87, 137 in the open sea, 172 in Patagonia, 180 in Fuegian paint, 234 in coral mud, 494 in tuff at Ascension, 525 on phosphorescence of the sea, 172 on noises from a hill, 385 Eimeo, island of, 432; barrier-reef, 433 Elater, springing powers of, 32 Electricity of atmosphere within Andes, 348 Elephant, weight of, 91 Elevated shells, 89, 136, 180, 266, 313, 331, 367, 393 Elevation of coasts of Chile, 266, 313, 323, 331, 355, 367, 381 Bahia Blanca, 87 Pampas, 137 Patagonia, 180, 395 mountain-chains, 333 Cordillera, 338, 343, 354 Peru, 393 within human period, 395 fringing-reefs, 508 Entomology of the Galapagos Archipelago, 407, 418, 420 Brazil, 34 Patagonia, 180, 349 Tierra del Fuego, 253 Keeling Island, 485 St. Helena, 520 Entre Rios, geology of, 132 Epeira, habits of, 37 to 39 Erratic blocks, how transported, 262 absent in intertropical countries, 263 on plains of Santa Cruz, 196 of Tierra del Fuego, 262 Estancia, value of, 154 Extermination of species and races, 183, 462, 469, 476 Extinction of shells at St. Helena, 520 of species, causes of, 183 of man in New South Wales, 462, 476 Eyes of tucutuco and mole, 53 Eyre Sound, 260 FALCONER, Dr., on the Sivatherium, 155 on the Indians, 109 on rivers in Pampas, 112 on natural enclosures, 122 Falkland Islands, 199 absence of trees at, 48 carrion-hawks of, 57 wild cattle and horses of, 200 fox of, 204 climate of, 257 peat of, 305 tame birds at, 424 Fat, quantity eaten, 123 Fatahua fall, 436 Fear an acquired instinct, 426 Februa Hoffmanseggi, butterfly, 35 Fennel run wild, 125 Ferguson, Dr., on miasma, 390 Fernando Noronha, 2, 11, 173, 399 Ferns, tree, 259, 477 Fields of dead coral, 488 Fire, art of making, 205, 436 Fireflies, 31 Fish emitting harsh sound, 144 of Galapagos, 416 eating coral, 494 Flamingoes, 69 Fleas, 369 Floods after droughts, 142 clear after snow, 341 Flora of the Galapagos, 399, 418, 421 of Keeling Island, 483 of St. Helena, 523 Flustraceæ, 211 Forests, absence of, in La Plata, 47 of Tierra del Fuego, 220, 250, 305 of Chiloe, 250, 299, 305, 314 of Valdivia, 319, 322 of New Zealand, 436 of Australia, 445 Fossil Mammalia, 36, 134, 137, 164, 182 earthenware, 394 Fox of the Falkland Islands, 204 of Chiloe, 299 Freyrina, 372 Friendly Archipelago, 505 Fringing reefs, 501 Frogs, noises of, 30 bladders of, 409 and toads, not found on oceanic islands, 407 Frozen soil, 93, 257 Fruit-trees, southern limit of, 250 Fucus giganteus, 254 Fuegians, 151, 218 to 243 wigwams, 151, 224 basket and bone weapons, 230 Fulgurites, 62 Fungus, edible, 250 Furnarius, 99 GALAPAGOS ARCHIPELAGO, 398 natural history of, 403 marked relationship with America, 403 zoology of, 403, 419 finches from, 405 Gale of wind, 228, 300 Gallegos river, fossil bones at, 182 Gallinazo, 60 Gauchos, 46, 160 character of, 161 live on meat, 123 surcingle of, 46 Gavia mountain, 33 Gay, M., on floating islands, 283 on shells in brackish water, 22 Geese at the Falkland Islands, 210 Geographical distribution of American animals, 138, 349 of frogs, 407 of fauna of Galapagos, 419 Geology of Cordillera, 341, 355 of St. Jago, 6 of St. Paul, 8 of Brazil, 12 of Bahia Blanca, 86 of Pampas, 136 of Patagonia, 180, 190 Georgia, climate of, 263 Geospiza, 405, 420 Gill, Mr., on an upheaved river-bed, 382 Gillies, Dr., on the Cordillera, 345 Glaciers in Tierra del Fuego, 237, 260, 261 in lat. 46° 40′, 260 in Cordillera, 346 Glow-worms, 31 Goats destructive to vegetation at St. Helena, 520 bones of, 177 Goeree Roads, 230 Goître, 336 Gold-washing, 284 Good Success Bay, 214 Gossamer spider, 169 Gould, Mr., on the Calodera, 132 on birds of Galapagos, 404 Granite mountains, Tres Montes, 301 of Cordillera, 342 Graspus, 10 Gravel, how far transported, 113 of Patagonia, 78, 180 Graves of Indians, 179 Greenstone, fragments of, 274 Gregory, Cape, 245 Gryllus migratorius, 352 Guanaco, habits of, 175, 197 fossil allied genus, 182 Guantajaya, mines of, 387 Guardia del Monte, 124 Guasco, 367, 371, 375 Guasos of Chile, 275 Guava imported into Tahiti, 430 Guinea-fowl, 5, 523 Guitron, 279 Gunnera scabra, 298 Gypsum, great beds of, 342 in salt-lake, 68 in Patagonian tertiary beds, 180 at Iquique with salt, 388 at Lima with shells, 392 HACHETTE, M., on lightning-tubes, 62 Hacienda, condor, and cactus, 271 Hail-storm, 121 Hall, Captain Basil, on terraces of Coquimbo, 367 Hare, Varying, 47 Head, Captain, on thistle-beds, 125, 130 Height of snow-line on Cordillera, 259 Henslow, Prof., on potatoes, 304 on plants of Keeling Island, 483 Hermit crabs, 486 Hide bridge, 334 Hill emitting a noise, 385 Himantopus, 120 Hippah, New Zealand, 458 Hobart Town and Mount Wellington, 475 Hogoleu barrier-reef, 499 Holes made by a bird, 99 Holman on drifted seeds, 484 Holothuriæ feeding on coral, 494 Homeward bound, 531 Hooker, Sir J., on the Cardoon, 125 Dr. J. D., on the kelp, 253 on Galapageian plants, 418, 421 Horn, Cape, 223 Horner, Mr., on a calcareous deposit, 10 Horse, swimming powers of, 152 Horse, wild at the Falkland Islands, 202 fossil of extinct species of, 86, 138 Horse-fly, 180 Horsemanship of the Gauchos, 162, 206 Horses difficult to drive, 115 drop excrement on paths, 125 killed by great droughts, 141 multiplication of, 247 broken in, 160 Hot springs of Cauquenes, 281 Huacas, 394, 396 Humboldt on burnished rocks, 12 on the atmosphere in tropics, 33 on frozen soil, 93 on hybernation, 102 on potatoes, 304 on earthquakes and rain, 375 on miasma, 390, 463 Humming-birds of Rio de Janeiro, 33 of Chiloe, 289 Hurtado, 113 Hybernation of animals, 102 Hydrochærus capybara, 40, 51 Hydrophobia, 377 Hyla, 30 Hymenophallus, 34 IBIS MELANOPS, 175 Ice, prismatic structure of, 347 Icebergs, 197, 237, 260 to 267 Incas’ bridge, 357, 380, 394 Incrustations on coast rocks, 9, 12 Indian fossil remains, 395 Indians, attacks of, 66, 80, 136 antiquarian relics of, 48, 109 Araucanian, 66, 321 of the Pampas, 105 decrease in numbers of, 108 grave of, 179, 198 Patagonian, 245 perforated stones used by, 285 Valdivian, 321 powers of tracking, 350 ruins of houses of, 380, 384, 392 Infection, 463 Infusoria in dust in the Atlantic, 5 in the sea, 16, 168 in the Pampas, 87, 137 in Patagonia, 180 in white paint, 234 in coral mud, 494 at Ascension, 525 Insects first colonists of St. Paul’s rocks, 10 blown out to sea, 168 of Patagonia, 180, 349 of Tierra del Fuego, 253 of Galapagos, 403, 417, 419 of Keeling Island, 485 of St. Helena, 520 Instincts of birds, 96, 423 Iodine with salt at Iquique, 388 Iquique, 386 Iron, oxide of, on rocks, 12 Irregular troops, 85 Islands, oceanic, volcanic, 8 Antarctic, 263 floating, 283 Low, 429, 497 JACKSON, Col., on frozen snow, 347 Jaguar, habits of, 143 Jajuel, mines of, 276 James Island, 402, 420 Jemmy Button, 218, 233 Juan Fernandez, volcano of, 332 flora of, 418 KANGAROO-HUNTING, 469 Kater’s Peak, 224 Kauri pine, 454 Keeling Island, 481 inside an atoll, 481 flora of, 483 birds of, 485, 486 entomology of, 486 subsidence of, 504 Birgos latro, 512 Kelp, or seaweed, 253, 254 Kendall, Lieut., on a frozen body, 263 Kingfishers, 2, 147 King George’s Sound, 478 Kororadika, 447, 453 LABOURERS, condition of, in Chile, 285 Lagoon-islands, 429, 482, 489, 495 Lagostomus, 130 Lake, brackish, near Rio, 22 with floating islands, 283 formed during earthquake, 395 Lamarck on acquired blindness, 53 Lampyris, 31 Lancaster, Capt., on a sea-tree, 105 Land-shells, 371, 519, 520 Las Minas, 43 Lazo, 46, 160, 201 Leaves, 250 fossil, 477 Leeks in New Zealand, imported, 455 Lemuy Island, 295, 297 Lepus Magellanicus, 203 Lesson, M., on the scissor-beak, 147 on rabbit of the Falklands, 203 Lichen on loose sand, 387 Lichtenstein on ostriches, 96 Lightning storms, 63 tubes, 61 Lima, 389, 392 and San Lorenzo, 360 elevation of a river near, 383 Lime, changed by lava into crystalline rock, 6 Limnæa in brackish water, 2 Lion-ant, 470 Lizard, 102 marine species of, 407 Lizards, transport of, 404 Llama or guanaco, habits of, 175 Locusts, 351 Longevity of species in Mollusca, 87 Lorenzo, San, island of, 393 Low Archipelago, 429, 497 Luciano, story of, 117 Lumb, Mr., 158, 164 Lund, M., on antiquity of man, 382 Lund and Clausen on fossils of Brazil, 138, 183 Luxan, 130, 351 Luxuriant vegetation not necessary to support large animals, 89 Lycosa, 36 Lyell, Mr., on terraces of Coquimbo, 367 on longevity of Mollusca, 87 on change in vegetation, 126 on fossil horses’ teeth, 137 on flocks of butterflies, 168 on extinct mammals and ice-period, 184 on stones twisted by earthquakes, 329 on frozen snow, 347 on distribution of animals, 349 on subsidence in the Pacific, 498 MACCULLOCH on infection, 464 Macquarie river, 471 Macrauchenia, 86, 182 Macrocystis, 253 Madrina, or godmother of a troop of mules, 336 Magdalen channel, 255 Magellan, flora of, 265 H.M.S. _Beagle_ in Straits of, Beagle Straits of, 229, 244 Port Famine, 246 kelp of, 267 Malays, 482 Malcolmson, Dr., on hail, 122 Maldiva atolls, 496, 505, 507 Maldonado, 41, 47, 61, 65, 145 Mammalia, fossil, 86, 134, 137, 164, 182, 183, 395 Man, antiquity of, 382 body frozen, 264 fossil remains of, 395 fear of, an acquired instinct, 427 extinction of races, 463, 476 Mandetiba, 20 Mandioca or cassava, 23, 27 Mare’s flesh eaten by troops, 107 Mares killed for their hides, 163 Mastodon, 134, 137 Maté pots and Bambillio, 118 Matter, granular, movements in, 104 Mauritius, 513 Maypu river, 338 Megalonyx, 86, 139 Megatherium, 86, 88, 139 Mendoza, 352 climate of, 345 Mercedes on the Rio Negro, 156 Mexico, elevation of, 139 Miasmata, 389, 463 Mice inhabit sterile places, 384 number of, in America, 51 how transported, 307, 404 different on opposite sides of Andes, 348 of the Galapagos, 403 of Ascension, 523 Millepora, 493 Mills for grinding ores, 284 Mimosæ, 26 Mimus, 56, 420, 424 Miners, condition of, 277, 283, 362, 370 Mines, 277, 365, 369 how discovered, 340 Miranda, Commandant, 105 Missionaries at New Zealand, 446 Mitchell, Sir T., on valleys of Australia, 466 Mocking-bird, 56, 420, 424 Molina omits description of certain birds, 289 Molothrus, habits of, 54 Monkeys with prehensile tails, 29 Monte Video, 41, 151, 152 Moresby, Capt., on a great crab, 493 on coral-reefs, 509 Mount Sarmiento, 247, 256 Tarn, 249 Victoria, 47 Mountains, elevation of, 333 Movements in granular matter, 104 Mud, chalk-like, 494 disturbed by earthquake, 328 Mules, 336 Muniz, Signor, on niata cattle, 155 Murray, Mr., on spiders, 170 Mylodon, 86, 140, 164 Myopotamus Coypus, 306 NARBOROUGH ISLAND, 401 Negress with goître, 336 Negro, Rio, 65, 192 lieutenant, 78 Nepean river, 444 New Caledonia, reef of, 499, 501, 507 New Zealand, 444 Niata cattle, 155 Noises from a hill, 385 Noses, ceremony of pressing, 451 Nothura, 47 Notopod, crustacean, 171 Nulliporæ, incrustations like, 9 protecting reefs, 529 OCTOPUS, habits of, 7 Oily coating on sea, 17 Olfersia, 10 Opetiorhynchus, 425 Opuntia, 278 Darwinii, 175 Galapageia, 427 Orange-trees self-sown, 126 Ores, gold, 284 Ornithology of Galapagos, 404, 420 Ornithorhynchus, 470 Osorno, volcano of, 292, 294, 312 Ostrich, habits of, 44, 94 Ostrich’s eggs, 119 Otaheite, 429 Otter, 307 Ova in sea, 17 Oven-bird, 99 Owen, Capt., on a drought in Africa, 141 Professor, on the Capybara, 51 fossil quadrupeds, 86-89, 137 nostrils of the Gallinazo, 195 Owl of Pampas, 73, 132 of Galapagos Islands, 406 Oxyurus, 252, 308 Oysters, gigantic, 180 PAINT, white, 234 Pallas on Siberia, 69 Palm-trees in La Plata, 48 south limit of, 260 in Chile, 272 Palms absent at Galapagos, 400 Pampas, halt at a pulperia on the, 64 number of embedded remains in, 165 southern limit of, 80 changes in, 130 giant thistle of, 125 not quite level, 134, 137, 153 geology of, 136, 165 view of, from the Andes, 348 Pan de Azucar, 47 Papilio feronia, 34, 39 Parana, Rio, 136, 148, 156 River, 133 islands in, 143 Parish, Sir W., on the great drought, 142 Park, Mungo, on eating salt, 116 Parrots, 147, 259 Partridges, 47 Pas, fortresss of New Zealand, 445 Passes in Cordillera, 356 Pasture altered from grazing of cattle, 124 Patagones, 65 Patagonia, geology of, 190, 349 birds of, 93 zoology of, 174, 180, 189 raised beaches, 182 Patagonian bolas, etc, 248, 249 Patagonians, Cape Gregory, 245 Paypote ravine, 383 Peach-trees self-sown, 126 Peat, formation of, 305 Pebbles perforated, 158, 285 transported in roots of trees, 491 Pelagic animals in southern ocean, 172 Penas, glacier in Gulf of, 261 Penguin, habits of, 209 Pepsis, habits of, 36 Pernambuco, reef of, 529 Pernety on hill of ruins, 208 on tame birds, 425 Peru, 386, 396 dry valleys of, 382, 386 Peruvian pottery, 396 Petrels, habits of, 309 Peuquenes, pass of, 341 Phonolite at Fernando Noronha, 11 Phosphorescence of the sea, 172 of land insects and sea animals, 31 of a coralline, 213 Phryniscus, 101 Pine of New Zealand, 454 Plains at foot of Andes in Chile, 282, 337 almost horizontal near St. Fé, 135 Planariæ, terrestrial species of, 28 Plants of the Galapagos, 402, 418, 421 of Keeling island, 483 of St. Helena, 517 Plants, fossil, in Australia, 477 Plata, R., 40 thunderstorms of, 65 Plover, long-legged, 120 Polished rocks, Brazil, 12 Polyborus chimango, 58, 209 Braziliensis, 57 Novæ Zelandiæ, 59 Ponsonby Sound, 229, 233, 239, 241 Porpoises, 40 Port Desire, 97, 174 river of, 112, 178 St. Julian, 180 Famine, 246, 247 Jackson, 459 Portillo Pass, 335 to 352 Porto Praya, 2 Potato, wild, 304 Potrero Seco, 375 Prairies, vegetation of, 124 Prévost, M., on cuckoos, 55 Priestley, Dr., on lightning-tubes, 61 Prisoner, bringing in a, 84 Procellaria gigantea, habits of, 309 Proctotretus, 102 Proteus, blindness of, 53 Protococcus nivalis, 345 Pteroptochos, two species of, 288 species of, 297, 307 Puenta del Inca, 356, 380 Puffinuria Berardii, 309 Puffinus cinereus, 309 Puma, habits of, 144, 193, 287 flesh of, 122 Puna, or short respiration, 344 Punta Alta, Bahia Blanca, 83 Gorda, 136, 380 Huantamó, 317 Pyrophorus luminosus, 32 QUADRUPEDS, fossil, 83, 136, 141, 164, 182 large, do not require luxuriant vegetation, 89 weight of, 91 Quartz of the Ventana, 122 of Tapalguen, 122 of Falkland Island, 207 Quedius, 10 Quellaypo volcano, 312 Quilimari, 362 Quillota, valley of, 270 Quinchao Island, 296 Quintero, 270 Quiriquina Island, 324 Quoy and Gaimard on stinging corals, 493 on coral-reefs, 505 RABBIT, wild, at the Falkland Islands, 203 Rain at Coquimbo, 361, 371, 372 at Rio, 30 effects on vegetation, 361 and earthquakes, 375 in Chile, formerly more abundant, 381 in Peru, 389, 390 Rana Mascariensis, 407 Rat, only aboriginal animal of New Zealand, 455 Rats at Galapagos, 403 at Keeling Island, 485 at Ascension, 523 Rattlesnake, species with allied habit, 100 Red snow, 345 Reduvius, 352 Reef at Pernambuco of sandstone, 529 Reefs of coral, 495 to 512 barrier, 498, 504 fringing, 501 Reeks, Mr., analysis of salt, 68 bones, 164 salt and shells, 394 Remains, human, elevated, 394 Remedies of the Gauchos, 135 Rengger on the horse, 247 Reptiles absent in Tierra del Fuego, 252 at Galapagos, 407 Respiration difficult in Andes, 344 Retrospect, 51 Revolutions at Buenos Ayres, 149 Rhea Darwinii (Avestruz Petise), 110 Rhinoceroses live in desert countries, 92 frozen, 93, 264 Rhynchops nigra, 145, 146 Richardson, Dr., on mice of North America, 404 on frozen soil, 92, 263 on eating fat, 123 on geographical distribution, 139 on polished rocks, 267 Rimsky atoll, 496 Rio de Janeiro, 19 to 39 Botofogo Bay, 19 Plata, 40 Negro, 65, 192 Colorado, 73 Sauce, 112 Salado, 124 S. Cruz, 187 River-bed, arched, 383 River-courses dry in America, 113 Rivers, power of, in wearing channels, 191, 339 Rocks burnished with ferruginous matter, 12 Rodents, number of, in America, 51, 189 fossil species of, 87 Rolor, General, 149 Rosas, General, 73, 116, 149 Rozario, 129, 133, 147, 153 Ruins of Callao, 391 of Indian buildings in Cordillera, 380, 382 SALADO, RIO, 124 Saladillo river, 134 Salinas at the Galapagos Archipelago, 402 in Patagonia, 66, 177 Saline efflorescences, 81 Salt with vegetable food, 116 superficial crust of, 388 with elevated shells, 393 Salt-lakes, 68, 177, 402 San Carlos, 313 Nicolas, 133, 147 Felipe, 276 Pedro, 299 Pedro, forests of, 299 Lorenzo Island, 393 Sand-dunes, 78 Sand, hot from sun’s rays, at Galapagos Archipelago, 403 noise from friction of, 385 Sandstone of New South Wales, 465 reef of, 529 Sandwich Archipelago, no frogs at, 407 Land, 263 Santa Cruz, river of, 187 Santiago, Chile, 282 Sarmiento, Mount, 247, 256 Sauce, Rio, 112, 371 Saurophagus sulphureus, 55 Scarus eating corals, 494 Scelidotherium, 86 Scenery of Andes, 335 to 341 Scissor-beak, habits of, 145, 146 Scissor-tail, 147 Scoresby, Mr., on effects of snow on rocks, 340 Scorpions, cannibals, 165 Scrope, Mr., on earthquakes, 376 Scytalopus, 252, 308 Sea, open, inhabitants of, 172 phosphorescence of, 172 explosions in, 327 Sea-pen, habits of, 104, 212 Seals, number of, 303 Seaweed, growth of, 253 Seeds transported by sea, 418, 484 Serpulæ, 529 Sertularia, protecting reef, 494 Shark killed by Diodon, 14 Shaw, Dr., on lion’s flesh, 122 Sheep, infected, 464 Shelley, lines on Mont Blanc, 178 Shells, land, in great numbers, 368 elevated, 86, 137, 180, 343, 367, 395 tropical forms of, far south, 258 fossil, of Cordillera, 343 decomposition of, with salt, 393 of Galapagos, 416 at St. Helena, 519 Shepherd’s dogs, 159 Shingle-bed of Patagonia, 78, 189 Shongi, New Zealand chief, 447 Siberia compared with Patagonia, 69 zoology of, related to North America, 140 Siberian animals, how preserved in ice, 264 food necessary during their existence, 93, 96 Sierra de la Ventana, 112 Tapalguen, 119 Silicified trees, 354, 376 Silurian formations at Falkland Islands, 207 Silurus, habits of, 144 Sivatherium, 155 Skunks, 83 Slavery, 20, 25, 530 Smelling power of carrion-hawks, 195 Smith, Dr. Andrew, on the support of large quadrupeds, 88 on perforated pebbles, 158 Snake, venomous, 100 Snow, effects of, on rocks, 340 prismatic structure of, 347 red, 345 Snow-line on Cordillera, 259, 358, 347 Socêgo, 23 Society, state of, in La Plata, 42, 165 state of, in Australia, 471, 474 Archipelago, 440 volcanic phenomena at, 505, 510 Soda, nitrate of, 388 sulphate of, 81 Soil, frozen, 92, 263 South American bit, 338 Spawn on surface of sea, 17 Species, distribution of, 136, 391 extinction of, 182 Spiders, habits of, 37 to 39 gossamer, 169 killed by and killing wasps, 37 to 39 on Keeling Island, 485 on St. Paul’s, 10 Spurs of Guaso, 275 Springs, hot, 281 Stevenson, Mr., on growth of seaweed, 253 St. Helena, 517 Jago, C. Verds, 1 unhealthiness of, 390 Paul’s rocks, 8 Fé, 135 Maria, elevated, 333, 338 introduction of spirits into, 439 Louis, Mauritius, 513 Stinging animals, 493 Stones perforated, 158, 285 transported in roots, 490 Storm, 223, 300 in Cordillera, 338, 374 Streams of stones at Falkland Islands, 207 Strongylus, 34 Struthio rhea, 44, 94 Darwinii, 97 Strzelecki, Count, 476 Suadiva atoll, 496 Subsidence of coral-reefs, 495 to 512 of Patagonia, 180 of Cordillera, 343, 355 of Coasts of Chile, 354 cause of distinctness in Tertiary epochs, 367 of coast of Peru, 379 of Keeling Island, 496, 504 of Vanikoro, 504 of coral-reefs great in amount, 509 Sulphate of lime, 69, 180, 386 soda with common salt, 69, 81, 386 soda incrusting the ground, 81 Swainson, Mr., on cuckoos, 54 Sydney, 459 TABANUS, 180 Tahiti (Otaheite), 429 three zones of fertility, 432 Fatahua fall, 436 Christianity in, 437, 441 Tahitian, 438 Talcahuano, 311, 324 Tambillos, Ruinas de, 380 Tameness of birds, 425 Tandeel, pumas at, 287 Tapacolo and Turco, 288 Tapalguen, Sierra, flat hills of quartz, 122 Tarn, Mount, 249 Tasmania, 474 Tattooing, 430, 439 Temperance of the Tahitians, 438 Temperature of Tierra del Fuego and Falkland Islands, 244 of Galapagos, 399, 403 Tercero, Rio, fossils in banks of, 134 Terraces in valleys of Cordillera, 337 of Patagonia, 181, 190 of Coquimbo, 367 Tertiary formations of the Pampas, 86, 136, 165 of Patagonia, 180, 349 in Chile, epochs of, 368 Teru-tero, habits of, 120 Testudo, two species of, 420 Abingdonii, 397 nigra, habits of, 408 Theory of lagoon-islands, 499 Theristicus melanops, 175 Thistle beds, 125, 130, 157 Thunder-storms, 63 Ti, liliaceous plant, 437 Tierra del Fuego, 215 to 257 climate and vegetation of, 250, 257 zoology of, 251 entomology of, 253 Tinamus rufescens, 119 Tinochorus rumicivorus, 98 Toad, habits of, 101 not found in oceanic islands, 407 Torrents in Cordillera, 338, 343 Tortoise, habits of, 408, 420 Toxodon, 86, 134, 137, 164 Transparency of air in Andes, 358 in St. Jago, 4 Transport of boulders, 190, 262 of fragments of rock on banks of the St. Cruz river, 190 of seeds, 418, 484 of stones in roots of trees, 491 Travertin with leaves of trees, Van Diemen’s Land, 479 Tree-ferns, 478 southern limits of, 258 Trees, absence of, in Pampas, 48 time required to rot, 322 silicified, vertical, 376 size of, 377 floating, transport stones, 490 Tres Montes, 301 Trichodesmium, 15 Trigonocephalus, 100 Tristan d’Acunha, 426, 485 Trochilus forficatus, 268 Tropical scenery, 526 Tschudi, M., on subsidence, 393 Tubes, siliceous, formed by lightning, 61 Tucutuco, habits of, 52 fossil species of, 87 Tuff, craters of, 398 infusoria in, 525 Tupungato, volcano of, 347 Turco, El, 288 Turkey buzzard, 60, 192, 303 Turtle, manner of catching, 488 Type of organisation in Galapagos Islands, American, 423 Types of organisation in different countries, constant, 182 Tyrannus savana, 147 ULLOA on hydrophobia, 377 on Indian buildings, 380 Unanùe, Dr., on hydrophobia, 377 Uruguay, Rio, 147, 152 not crossed by the Bizcacha, 131 Uspallata range and pass, 353 VACAS, RIO, 355 Valdivia, 318 forests of, 319, 322 Valley of St. Cruz, how excavated, 190 dry, at Copiapó, 380 Valleys, excavation of, in Chile, 343, 383 of New South Wales, 46 in Cordillera, 343 of Tahiti, 437, 439 Valparaiso, 268, 335 Vampire bat, 22, 23 Van Diemen’s Land, 474 Vanellus cayanus, 120 Vanessa, flocks of, 168 Vanikoro, 500, 504 Vapour from forests, 25 Vegetation of St. Helena, changes of, 519 luxuriant, not necessary to support large animals, 89 on opposite sides of Cordillera, 349 Ventana, Sierra, 71, 112 Verbena melindres, 42 Vilipilli, 315 Villa Vicencio, 353 Villarica volcano, 332 Virgin forest, 25 Virgularia Patagonica, 104 Volcanic bombs, 524 cellular formation of, 524 islands, 8 phenomena, 331 Volcanoes near Chiloe, 294, 300, 312, 332 their presence determined by elevation or subsidence, 496 Vultur aura, 60, 192, 303 WADERS, first colonists of distant islands, 405 Waimate, New Zealand, 452 Waiomio, 456 Walckenaer on spiders, 39 Walleechu tree, 71 Wasps preying on spiders and killed by, 37 to 39 Water-hog (Hydrochærus capybara), 51 Water-serpents, 103 Water sold at Iquique, 386 Water, fresh, floating on salt, 41, 487 Waterhouse, Mr., on Rodents, 51, 485 on the niata ox, 156 on the insects of Tierra del Fuego, 253 of Galapagos, 406, 417 on the terrestrial mammals of Galapagos, 403 Waves caused by fall of ice, 237, 260 from earthquakes, 326, 330 Weather, connection with earthquakes, 375 Weatherboard, N.S. Wales, 465 Weeds in New Zealand, imported, 455 Weight of large quadrupeds, 88 Wellington, Mount, 477 Wells, ebbing and flowing, 487 at Iquique, 388 West Indies, banks of sediment, 468 zoology of, 143 coral-reefs of, 502, 510 Whales, oil from, 17 leaping out of water, 236 White, Mr., on spiders, 36 Whitsunday Island, 495, 497 Wigwam cove, 223, 228 Wigwams of Fuegians, 151, 224 Williams, Rev. Mr., on infectious disorders, 452, 463 Winds, dry, in Tierra del Fuego, 245 at the Cape Verds, 3 on Cordillera, 345 cold, on Cordillera, 384 Winter’s Bark, 250, 299 Wolf at the Falklands, 204 Wollaston Island, 224, 244 Wood, Captain, on the Agouti, 72 Woollya, 239 YAQUIL gold mines, 283 Yeso, Valle del, 341 York Minster, 215, 227, 241, 294 ZONOTRICHIA, 54 Zoological provinces of N. and S. America, 140 Zoology of Galapagos, 403 of Tierra del Fuego, 251 of Chonos Islands, 306 of Keeling Island, 485 of St. Helena, 520 Zoophytes, 104, 211 at Falkland Islands, 210 Zorillo, or skunk, 83