Journal of my journey over the mountains while surveying for Lord Thomas Fairfax, baron of Cameron, in the northern neck of Virginia, beyond the Blue Ridge, in 1747-8.

Part 4

Chapter 44,996 wordsPublic domain

[Footnote 33: "Wappacomo," also spelled "Wappatomaka," was the Indian name for the South Branch of the Potomac. This stream courses through a fine valley from its head-springs in Pendleton county, and has many considerable branches rising among the spurs of the Alleghany mountains on the one side and the North or Cacapehon (Capon) mountain on the other, the latter separating it from the valley of Virginia on the east. The great or most noted fork of the South Branch is at Morefield in Hardy county. Washington surveyed much of the land in that section. The young farmers seeking good lands had come in taken up considerable tracts and built improvements before surveys were made or any effort to prove rights from either Lord Fairfax or the governor of Virginia.]

Lot y^e 1^{st} Peter Reeds Begins at a Box Oak & Hickory F in y. Boundary line about 20 po. above a Large Spring on y^e West side y^e Fork in a Hollow of y^e Mountains and extending thence N^o 65° E^t 320 Po. to a White O: and Hickory on y^e Mountain side thence S^o 60° E^t 300 Po: Crossing y^e Fork at 106 P: to 2 Spanish Oaks and W: O on y^e Top of a Hill thence S^o 65 W^t 96 to a White Oak on y^e Top of a Hill thence S^o 45 W^t 114 po. to a W: O on a Run thence S^o 13 W^t 148 to a Pine thence S 45° W^t 28 po. to 2 R == O: bushes in y^e Boundary line thence along y. same to y^e Beginning

Lot the 2^d Begins at a W: O & Hickory on a Mountain side Corner to Lot y^e 1^{st} extending y^e Line S^o 60° E^t 300 po. to 2 Spanish Oaks and W: O on a Hill thence N^o 30′ E^t 214 po to 2 W: O near a Branch thence N^o 60° W^t 244 po to y. S^o Fork 300 po. to a Ledge of Rocks on a Mountain side thence S^o 30 W^t 214 to y^e Beginning.

Thursday 31^{st} Early this Morning one of our Men went out with y^e Gun & soon Returnd with two Wild Turkies we then went to our Business run of three Lots & returnd to our Camping place at Stumps

March 31^{st}

Lot the 3^d Begins at Ledge of Rocks corner to Lot 2^d extendth thence along y^e s^d line S^o 60 E^t 300 po to 2 W: O near a Branch thence N^o 30 E^t 214 po to a Pine on a Hillside near a Run thence N^o 60° W^t 78 to y. Bottom Ground 202 po. to y^e River and 244 po. to a Pine by a Rock on y. Mountain side thence to y^e Beginning S. 30 W^t 224 P.

Lot 4^{th} this Lot survey'd myself Beginning at a Pine by a Rock on a mountain side Corner to Lot 3^d & Running the s^d line S^o 60° 244 Poles to a Pine on a Hill side near a Run thence N^o 30° E^t 262 P^o to 2 Chesnut Oaks and a Pine thence N^o 60° W^t 98 Pole to y^e Low Grounds 164 to y^e Fork and 244 P. to a R: O on a Rock thence S^o 30 W^t 262 Po to y. Beginning

Lot 5^{th} Begins at a Red O on a Rock Corner to Lot 4^{th} & extendeth thence S^o 60 E^t 244 Poles to 2 Chesnut Oaks & a Pine thence N^o 30 E^t 262 Po. to a W: O by a Run thence N^o 60 W^t 154 po to an ash 108 po to y^e Fork thence N^o 86 W^t 38 xing y^e Fork 78 xing it again and 100 Po: to a R: O on y^e mountain Side thence S 30 W^t 262 Po to y^e Beg^g

[April 1^{st}]

Lot y^e 6^{th} Anthony Regar Begins at a Red Oak on a Mountain side Corner to Lot y^e 5^{th} and extending thence along y^e s^d Line S^o 86 E^t 100 po. to an Ash thence with another of y^e s^d lines S^o 60 E^t 154 po: to a white Oak by a Run thence N^o 30 E^t 256 po to 3 pines on a Hill side thence N^o 60 W^t 200 po: to y^e Low Grounds 320 po to a Poplar standing in y^e Fork thence to y^e Beg^g

Lot y^e 7^{th} Harmon Shoker & Elias Cellars Begins at a Poplar standing on y^e S^o Fork Corner to Lot y^e 6^{th} & Running along y^e Line S^o 60 E^t 244 po to a Pine on a Hill side thence N 30 E^t 262 po by 2 Marked Pines thence N^o 60 W^t 46 po to y^e Low G: 140 to y^e Fork and 244 po to a Stone on y^e side of a Mountain thence to y^e Begin^g S 30 W^t

Lot y^e 8^{th} Vacant[34] Beginning at a Rock corner to lot 7 & Running along y^e Line thereof S^o 60 E^t 244 po by 2 Pines thence N^o 35 E^t 266 po. to 3 Chesnut Oaks on a Steep Hill side thence N^o 55 E^t 54 po. to y^e Low Grounds 80 po. to y^e Fork 190 po to y^e farr Edge of y^e Low G: 244 po. to a Chesnut Oak on y^e Mountain side thence to y^e Begining

[Footnote 34: Vacant--this term, as used by surveyors, indicates that the tract of land so designated is neither claimed by an actual occupant or occupied by virtue of any official record. Many of the settlers on the lands of Lord Fairfax selected their farms and made improvements without any legal survey, warrant or title, other than a "tomahawk blaze" for a boundary mark, trusting that the actual owner of the land would recognize the improvement and occupant's claim and deal justly by them. These "tomahawk claims" were respected by the actual settlers, had a market value among land speculators and were admitted, to a certain extent, as evidence of rights in the courts.]

Fryday April y^e 1^{st} 1748 This Morning Shot twice at Wild Turkies but killd none run of three Lots & returned to Camp

Saterday April 2^d Last Night was a blowing & Rainy night Our Straw catch'd a Fire y^t we were laying upon & was luckily Preserv'd by one of our Mens awaking when it was in a @@whitespace@@ we run of four Lots this Day which Reached below Stumps

April 2^d

Lot y^e 9^{th}

Begining at Chesnut Oak on y^e Mountain side corner to Lot 8^{th} & Running along y^e Line thereof S^o 55 E^t 244 po to 3 Chesnut Oaks on a Steep Side thence N^o 35 E^t 262 po to 2 Chesnut Oaks & a White Oak thence N^o 65 E^t 80 to y^e Low G: 126 po to y^e Fork 244 po to a Hickory at y^e Foot of the Mountain thence to y^e Beginning S^o 35 W^t 262 po this Lot is very Good

Lot 10^{th} Michael Calb Liveron Begining at a Hickory Corner to Lot y^e 9^{th} & Runing along y^e Line S^o 55 E^t 244 Pole to 2 Chesnut Oaks thence N^o 35 E^t 262 po to 2 pines & a spanish Oak on y^e Top of a Hill thence N^o 55 W^t 84 po to y^e Low G: 230, po to y^e Fork 270 po to a Red O: on y^e Mountain Side thence to y^e Beginning

Lot y^e 11^{th} Leonard Nave Beginning at a Red O: on y^e Mountain side Corner to Lot y^e 10^{th} & Running along y^e Line S 55 E^t 270 Po to 2 Pines on y^e Top of a Hill thence N^o 35 E^t 262 po. to a Pine on a Hill side thence N^o 55 E 180 po to y^e Bottom 248 po to y^e Fork 274 to an Ash at y^e Foot of y^e Mountain thence to y^e Beg.

Lot 12^{th} Michael Stumps Begins at an Ash at y^e Foot of y^e Mountain Corner to Lot 11 & Running along y^e Line S^o 55 E^t 274 Po: to a Pine thence N^o 25 E^t 320 po to 2 Pines thence N^o 65 W^t 188 po to y^e Low G: 280 po to 2 Sycamores & a White Wood tree Standing on y^e Fork thence up and Crossing y^e Fork to y^e Begg

Sunday 3^d Last Night was a much more blostering night than y^e former we had our Tent Carried Quite of with y^e Wind and was obliged to Lie y^e Latter part of y^e night without covering there came several Persons to see us this day one of our Men Shot a Wild Turkie

Monday 4^{th} this morning M^r Fairfax left us with Intent to go down to y^e Mouth of y^e Branch we did two Lots & was attended by a great Company of People Men Women & Children that attended us through y^e Woods as we went showing there Antick tricks I really think they seem to be as Ignorant a Set of People as the Indians they would never speak English but when spoken to they speak all Dutch[35] this day our Tent was blown down by y^e Violentness of y^e Wind

[Footnote 35: Dutch.--As early as 1730 there was a considerable settlement in the Shenandoah valley, of German immigrants and their descendants, who had first settled in Pennsylvania and then removed to, and taken up lands in, the valley of Virginia. They selected, chiefly, the good limestone lands with their centers of population near the head-waters of the Opequon creek, in Shenandoah, and the south-western part of Frederick county. They were all Protestants in religion. The town of Woodstock was originally and exclusively settled by Germans. The bill for its incorporation was reported to the House of Burgesses of Va., by Col. George Washington in 1761. For many years the German language was exclusively spoken in their settlement, and German customs and religious observances were retained with tenacity, their remoteness and seclusion securing to them almost perfect freedom from innovations. The Revolution found them patriotic supporters of the colony as against the pretensions of Great Britain. It was in the town of Woodstock, Shenandoah county, that Maj.-Gen. John Peter Gabriel Muhlenberg, minister of the Lutheran church, dressed in his uniform and with his sword buckled on, preached a farewell sermon in 1776, to a sympathizing and patriotic congregation, and the next day marched as colonel at the head of his German regiment, known subsequently as the 8th Virginia, to join the Continental army. Such names of places as Strasburg, Hamburg, Mecklenburg, the latter now known as Shepherdstown, etc., perpetuate the fact that many of the earliest settlers in that section were German.--See Kercheval, p. 158.]

April 4^d

Lot y^e 13 Vacant Begins at 2 Sycamores and a White Wood Tree standing on y^e fork Corner to Lot 12^{th} & Running along y^e Line S^o 65 E^t 280 po. to 2 pines thence N^o 25 E^t 228 Po. to a Spanish Oak thence N^o 65 W^t 206 to y^e Low G: 248 po to y^e Fork 280 to a Rock Stone on y^e Mountain Side thence to the Beginning S 25 W^t 228 poles

Lot 14^{th} James Simson's Begins at a Rock Stone on y^e Mountain Side Corner to Lot y^e 13^{th} & Runs thence S^o 65 E^t 280 pole to a Spanish Oak thence N^o 25 E^t 228 pole to a Large Hickory in a Vally thence N^o 65 W^t 108 to y^e Low G: 180 pole to y^e Fork 280 pole to 3 Red Oaks on y^e Mountain side near a Spring Branch thence to y^e Beginning S 25 W^t 228 pole this Lot I survay'd.

The Courses of y^e Fork from Lot 14^{th} Down to y^e Mannor Line Beginning at 2 Red Bud Trees[36] & a Black Walnut on y^e West side y^e Fork & Running Down y^e Several Courses of y^e Fork N^o 9 E^t 19 po N^o 34 W^t 12 po N^o 15 E^t 22 po N^o 39 E^t 24 po N^o 12 E^t 23 po N^o 17 W^t 66 po N 6 E^t 42 po opposite to Henry Harris's house N^o 26 W^t 20 po West 32 op Phillip Moors house bears N^o 86 W^t N^o 23 W^t 48 po to a Blazed Tree[37] from here Phillip Moors house bears S^o 54 W^t N^o 6 W^t 33 po N^o 28 E^t 26 po N^o 73 E^t 28 po N^o 7 W^t 85 po to a blazed tree N^o 45 W^t 24 po. y^e Widow Wolfs[38] house bears S^o 52 W^t about 60 po. N^o 65 W^t 27 po S^o 84 W^t 18 po. S 50 W^t 14 po S. 19 W 20 po N^o 67 W^t 22 po. N^o 28 W^t 23 po. S^o 78 W^t 29 po N^o 71 W^t 25 po. N^o 39 W^t 19 po N^o 3 W^t 24 po. xx N^o 60 W^t 20 po N^o 39 W^t 20 po N^o 8 E^t 46 po to an Ash black Walnut & White Walnut in y^e Mannor Line on y^e s^d fork thence S^o 36 W^t along y^e Mannor Line 320 poles to 2 W: O & a R: O.

[Footnote 36: The Red Bud or Judas tree.--A common tree that grows wild in the United States. In botany it is known as the "_Cercis Canadensis_," and often grows to the height of 30 feet or more. It flowers in April, clothing its limbs in a reddish-purple bloom for a week or ten days before its leaves appear, and from this circumstance it is popularly called red bud.]

[Footnote 37: Blazed trees.--These are surveyors' marks made on trees to proclaim and identify certain routes or lines. The "blaze" is made by removing with an axe a strip of the outer bark of a tree or sapling, for about a foot in length and well into the inner bark. In the future growth of the tree a lighter color marks the cicatrix which rarely ever wholly disappears. Surveyors, to distinguish corner trees in a survey, not only blaze the sides of the tree in the direction their lines run but cut three small notches through the bark which will remain distinct during the life of the tree.]

[Footnote 38: Widow Wolf.--There was a Fort Wolf on Stony creek a few miles south-west of Woodstock, erected by the Germans at an early period in the settlement of the valley; there is also a marsh or creek named Wolf's marsh, which empties into the Shenandoah about twelve miles above Ashby's Ferry. Possibly these were so called from the name of this widow's husband.]

Tuesday 5^{th} We went out & did 4 Lots we were attended by y^e same Company of People y^t we had y^e day before

April y^e 5^{th} 1748

Lot y^e 15^{th} Phillip Moore Beginning at Lot y^e 14^{th} on y^e Fork & Running down y^e Meanders to y^e first Blazed Tree a Black Oak on y^e Fork thence S^o 69 W^t 80 to y^e Edge of y^e Low G: 226 po to a Spanish Oak thence S^o 41 E^t 296 po. to a White Oak on a Mountain side thence N^o 40 E^t 38 po to 3 Red Oaks on a Mountain side near a Spring Branch this Lot very good

Lot y^e 16^{th} and 17^{th} Widow Wolfs and Henry Sheplars a Black Smith by trade Begins at a Black Walnut on y^e Fork & Runs S^o 17 W 76 po to a Red Oak & Hickory 90 po Crossing y^e Road about 20 po: above y^e house 226 po to 2 W: O thence N^o 41 W^t 96 po to 2 White Oaks in y^e Mannor line to y^e River the line of y^e 16^{th} Lot from y^e 2 W: O S 41 E^t

Lot 18^{th} Jeremiah Osborne's Begins at a Sycamore on y^e Fork & extending N^o 80 E^t 215 po. to a Chesnut Oak thence South 280 po to a W: O near a Hickory Corner to Lot y^e 14^{th} thence along the line thereof to y^e Fork thence down y^e Several Meanders of y^e Fork to y^e Beginning

Wednesday 6^{th} Last Night was so Intolerably smoky that we were obliged all hands to leave y^e Tent to y^e Mercy of y^e Wind and Fire this day was attended by our afore^d Company untill about 12 oClock when we finish'd we travell'd down y^e Branch to Henry Vanmetris's on our Journey was catch'd in a very heavy Rain we got under a Straw House untill y^e Worst of it was over & then continued our Journey

April 6^{th}

Lot 19 Begg: at a Spanish Oak corner to Lot 18^{th} & Runing thence N^o 23 W^t 350 po to 3 W: O thence S^o 36 W^t 164 po 94 to y^e Low G: to 2 Locust Trees on y^e Fork

Lot y^e 20^{th} Begg at 2 Locusts on y^e Fork Corner to Lot 19^{th} & Runing along y^e Line N^o 36 E^t 164 po to 3 W: O thence N^o 23 W^t 250 po 3 Red Oaks in y^e Manner line thence Down y^e Manner line

Thursday 7^{th} Rain'd Successively all Last night this Morning one of our men Killed a Wild Turkie that weight 20 Pounds we went & Survey'd 15 Hundred Acres of Land & Return'd to Vanmetris's about 1 o'Clock about two I heard that M^r Fairfax was come up & at 1 Peter Casseys about 2 Miles of in y^e same Old Field[39] I then took my Horse & went up to see him we eat our Dinners & walked down to Vanmetris's we stayed about two Hours & Walked back again and slept in Casseys House which was y^e first Night I had slept in a House since I came to y^e Branch

[Footnote 39: Old Fields and Wild Meadow.--There were many small, timberless tracts of land on the mountains and in the great valleys of Virginia and Pennsylvania, in regions which were generally, prior to the occupation and the clearing up of the country by the white man, densely covered with trees. Large tracts of such timberless land existed in the region now embraced within the counties of Berkeley, Jefferson and Frederick. Strange as it may appear some of this kind of land within the history of the settlement of the valley became covered with young forest timber. In some respects these openings resembled the treeless prairies of the west. No satisfactory explanation of this frequently observed condition has ever been given. Many of these meadows were the favorite pasturing grounds of the large game and were, therefore, of special interest to the hunter. Clearfield county, Pa., it is believed, got its name from the fact that there were within its territory extensive natural clear fields and meadows.]

Fryday 8^{th} we breakfasted at Casseys & Rode down to Vanmetris's to get all our Company together which when we had accomplished we Rode down below y^e Trough in order to Lay of Lots there we laid of one this day The Trough is couple of Ledges of Mountain Impassable running side & side together for above 7 or 8 Miles & y^e River down between them you must Ride Round y^e back of y^e Mountain for to get below them we Camped this Night in y^e Woods near a Wild Meadow where was a Large Stack of Hay after we had Pitched our Tent & made a very Large Fire we pull'd out our Knapsack in order to Recruit ourselves every was his own Cook our Spits was Forked Sticks our Plates was a Large Chip as for Dishes we had none

Saterday 9^{th} Set ye Surveyor[40] to work whilst M^r Fairfax & myself stayed at y^e Tent our Provision being all exhausted & y^e Person that was to bring us a Recruit disappointing us we were oblige to go without untill we could get some from y^e Neighbours which was not till about 4 or 5 oClock in y^e Evening we then took our Leaves of y^e Rest of our Company Road Down to John Colins in order to set off next Day homewards

[Footnote 40: From the expression, "set the surveyor to work," as well as the language used in the record on the 12th of March, that "Mr. James Genn the surveyor came to us and traveled over the Blue Ridge, etc.," with other expressions at a later date of similar import in the journal and in other documents, it is rendered almost certain that George Washington was, from the first, employed by Lord Fairfax, not as a surveyor, merely, but rather in the capacity of a skilled director of other surveyors, and as the confidential adviser in the division and sale of his lordship's lands.]

Sunday 10^{th} We took our farewell of y^e Branch & travell'd over Hills and Mountains to 1 Coddys on Great Cacapehon about 40 Miles

Monday 11^{th} We travell'd from Coddys down to Frederick Town where we Reached about 12 oClock we dined in Town and then went to Cap^t Hites & Lodged

Tuesday 12^{th} We set of from Capt. Hites in order to go over W^{ms} Gap[41] about 20 Miles and after Riding about 20 Miles we had 20 to go for we had lost ourselves & got up as High as Ashbys Bent[42] we did get over W^{ms} Gap that Night and as low as W^m Wests in Fairfax[43] County 18 Miles from y^e Top of y^e Ridge This day see a Rattled Snake y^e first we had seen in all our Journey

[Footnote 41: Williams' Gap, in the Blue Ridge, is on a line nearly due east from Winchester. It derived its name from a Mr. Williams, who kept a ferry over the Shenandoah river on one of the roads from Winchester into Loudoun and Fairfax counties. This name still attaches to the gap and appears on the early maps of Virginia. It is a notable fact that all or most of the important gaps through mountain passes in the United States were well worn buffalo paths and Indian trails when first visited by white men.]

[Footnote 42: Ashby's Bent is supposed to have reference to the great bend and extensive bottom lands of the Shenandoah, just above which was located Captain Ashby's ferry across that river. Washington uses this term in 1770 to describe a large tract of bottom land on the Ohio which he acquired.]

[Footnote 43: Fairfax county, in which Mount Vernon is located, was created out of Prince William county by the Assembly of Virginia in 1742.]

Wednesday y^e 13^{th} of April 1748

M^r Fairfax got safe home and I myself safe to my Brothers[44] which concludes my Journal[45]

[Footnote 44: Major Lawrence Washington, proprietor of Mount Vernon, was the second child and oldest surviving son of Augustine and his first wife Jane (Butler) Washington, born at Pope's Creek, Westmoreland county, Va., in 1718, and died at his residence, Mount Vernon, 26th July, 1752. He was the half-brother of the illustrious George Washington and great-grandson of the emigrant, Col. John Washington, who came to Virginia about 1657. It is a matter of tradition that Lawrence was at about the age of 15 sent to England to be educated, and leaving college he received a captain's commission to serve in a regiment raised in Virginia to take part in the expedition against Carthegenia, 1740-42, under the command of Admiral Vernon.

The expedition failed of its purpose, and Major Lawrence Washington returned to Virginia in the fall of 1742. He shortly after became engaged to Anne Fairfax, which induced him to resign from the army. His father died April 12, 1743, leaving a considerable estate and named him, his oldest son, one of his executors. He inherited from his father "the Hunting creek" plantation, consisting of 2,500 acres, on the Potomac but a few miles from and in sight of "Belvoir." On the 19th of July Lawrence Washington was united in marriage to Anne, eldest daughter of the Hon. William Fairfax of "Belvoir." He made many improvements on his plantation and gave it the name of "Mount Vernon," in compliment to his old commander, Admiral Vernon. Lawrence Washington had received a good education, had mixed with prominent personages, had seen much of the world, and was a man of good habits and business qualifications.

His father at the time of his death, was largely engaged in business which Lawrence was obliged to look after and close up. This gradually led him into various business enterprises; such as the manufacturing of iron, buying and selling land, etc. He and his brother Augustin were among the organizers of "The Ohio Company," to explore the western country, encourage settlements, and conduct a trade with the Indians. He was elected to the House of Burgesses of Virginia from Fairfax county in 1748. It was largely through his influence that a charter was granted to the towns of Alexandria and Colchester, both in Fairfax county. He together with Lord Fairfax, George Mason, Hon. William Fairfax, William Ramsay, John Carlyle and others was named as trustee to lay out and govern the town. He was a popular legislator, but declined to serve longer in the Assembly, as it interfered with his present business. He was greatly attached to his brother George, and made it a point to have him with him at Mount Vernon whenever it was practicable without interrupting his studies. Lawrence was always of a delicate constitution, but by his prudent habits and systematic attention to business he accomplished a great deal and enhanced the value of his possessions. He was tall in stature and a man of fine personal appearance, as is shown by an oil painting of him which still hangs upon the wall of the Virginia room in Mount Vernon mansion. He was rapidly becoming one of the leading business men of Virginia, when his health broke down. As a last resort his physicians recommended that he should spend a winter in the West Indies. In the fall of 1751, he resigned his commission as one of the adjutant-generals of Virginia, and taking his brother George with him, he went to the Island of Barbadoes. His pulmonary trouble had progressed too far to be arrested, and after spending some five months on the Island, and finding himself declining he returned home and died in July, 1752. His marriage had been blessed by four children, three of whom had died, his surviving child, Sarah, was still an infant at the time of her father's death. After providing in his will for his wife he left Mount Vernon to his daughter, but in the event of her death without heirs it was to go to his "beloved brother George," who was also named as one of his executors. This daughter Sarah died within a year, and George inherited Mount Vernon before he was 21 years of age. A few years after Lawrence Washington's death, his widow married George Lee, brother to the father of Arthur and Richard Henry Lee, patriots in the Revolution.]

[Footnote 45: The note book which contains this journal of Washington's includes also other memoranda, such as notes of surveys, drafts of juvenile letters, verses, etc., all of which are of interest for the glimpses they give of the character and early life of their author, and are copied with literal exactness and given with the journal and surveys.]

The Mannor how to Draw up a Return when Survey'd for His Lordship or any of y^e Family

March y^e 15^{th} 1747-8