Part 6

We left this camp at 7.37 a.m. At 7.42 made a quarter of a mile south-west by south to end of Mary Lake; at 7.52 made half a mile south on left side of the river, to plains, which are slightly timbered; at 8 made half a mile south-south-east, skirting the river to Lake Frances; at 9 made three miles; at 9.19 made three-quarters of a mile south to where we crossed a watercourse from the east which I have named the Don Creek: at 9.30 made half a mile south-south-west on left side of river over plains; at 9.41 made half a mile south by west to where I waited for the party, who came up at 9.45; at 10.5 made one mile south by west to where we crossed a creek from north-east; at 10.24 made three-quarters of a mile south by west; at 10.45 made one mile south to the left side of the river; at 11 made three-quarters of a mile south-east by south along the dry bed of the river, from which we started successive flights of pigeons. At this place Mr. Campbell and party halted with the horses while Mr. Allison and I went about a mile westward onto the plain, where he made the altitude 86 degrees 30 minutes, which makes the latitude 20 degrees 6 minutes, agreeing with the latitude of my dead reckoning and with an observation I made of a star last night; at 3 Jemmy, who had gone down the river, returned without finding any water, except what was left by the last thunderstorm; and as he told me I was following up a river, and not down, I too hurriedly believed him, and made up my mind to return to a waterhole that Fisherman had found to the right of our course in the bed of the river. At the waterhole I found blacks, but, as I always avoid them when I can, after I had a short interview with them we started down the river to the water Jemmy had found, following along the right bank as we had the left before; at 4.40 made two miles and three-quarters down the river to where we crossed, near its junction, a river or a branch of one from north-west; at 5.8 made one mile and a half back to where Mr. Allison went on the plain to get an observation; at 5.20 made half a mile south; at 5.40 made one mile south to where the river has two channels; the one trending to the west of south we crossed, between the two channels of the river; at 5.53 made half a mile south to where the left channel of the river was full of water and fine grass on its banks, on the right bank of which we formed our twenty-third camp, at the place where Mr. Allison made an observation of the sun. The country is very level and the watercourses are unconfined, and in times of floods the water overflows the low banks of the different channels. The blacks we saw today appear to be circumcised; three of them approached us, one of whom was the old blackfellow we had seen yesterday. Their name for water we thought from what they said was oto. We presented them with a tin pot and two empty glass bottles with which they were very much pleased.

Friday December 27. Camp Number 23, situated on the Herbert River.

Left camp at 8.24 a.m. to go down the river; at 8.35 made half a mile south-south-west to where we crossed, near its junction, a western channel of the river; at this place there are flats covered with bushes like saltbush, which the horses eat. These bushes I have observed on the western plains from Rockhampton and on most of the low situations along our route on this expedition; at 8.43 made half a mile south; at 8.48 made a quarter of a mile south-west where we crossed, near its junction, a more western channel of the river; at 9.10 made one mile south-west by south to where we crossed, near its junction, a river from west, with a shallow and broad channel; the banks of the river at this place are very little below the level of the plain on each side of it; at 10.10 made three miles south-south-west with level plains on each side of us, without trees or bushes, except along the watercourses; at 10.30 made one mile south to the right bank of the river, where there are twelve box-trees growing in its bed; before crossing to its left bank we got enough water to satisfy the horses; at 11.4 made one mile and a half south to a junction of a watercourse with extensive flood-marks from the east. This river has a deeper channel, with trees on its banks, than the river we have been following down had. At 11.15 made half a mile south, when Mr. Allison and I went back to the westward, on the plains, and got the following altitude of the sun: 86 degrees 37 minutes, which makes the latitude 20 degrees 11 minutes 15 seconds; at 1.35 made three-quarters of a mile south down the river; at 1.47 made a quarter of a mile south-east down the river; at 2.20 made one mile and a quarter south, following the course of the river in search of water; at 3.10 made one mile and three-quarters about south-south-west, following the course of the river in search of water; at 3.44 made half a mile about south-west, following the course of the river in search of water; at 4.10 made one mile and a quarter about south, where, accompanied by the troopers, I left Campbell and Allison to go in search of water; at 5.20 made three miles about south-west down the river in an unsuccessful search for water; at 6 made two miles north-east by east; returning, we steered over plains, the grass of which was completely parched up. Near the creek I observed more owls than I have ever seen anywhere before; at 6.27 made one mile and a quarter north-east by east back to our party; then went, at 6.56, one mile and a quarter north by east, towards where we had seen the last water; at 7.15 made one mile north by east; at 7.35 made three-quarters of a mile north-east; at 8 made three-quarters of a mile about north-east by north and encamped.

Saturday December 28. Camp Number 24, situated on the Herbert River.

We started back up the river being unable to pursue our course to the westward from want of water. I sent Mr. Campbell and Jemmy on with the horses, while Mr. Allison and I went out on the plain to take an observation of the sun, which was not satisfactory from the sun being over-shadowed; we made the latitude 20 degrees 12 minutes 35 seconds; at 1.21 p.m. made three miles north by east from where we took the sun's altitude; at 1.53 made one mile north to where we crossed a channel of the river; at 2.35 made two miles and a quarter north by east partly on the tracks of Campbell and party; at 2.50 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east to where we recrossed left bank of the river and overtook Campbell and party. Here we delayed till 3.22 in consequence of one of the horses being knocked up; at 3.40 made one mile north by east to where we recrossed the right bank of the river; at 3.55 made three-quarters of a mile and encamped. Here the grass was very abundant and the holes full of water. This camp is about half a mile from Number 23 Camp.

Sunday December 29th. Camp 25. Situated on the Herbert River.

It was our intention to remain here for several days as the grass was good and the horses required a rest, but I deemed it advisable to return at once up the river because there were about one hundred blacks in the neighbourhood of the camp, some of whom were so bold that I feared it might be necessary to shoot some of them, or give them possession of the ground. Two of them had passed our camp on the previous evening, and the troopers, with my consent, presented them with glass bottles, after receiving which they soon returned with a large mob, who remained with us till dark. In the morning they returned and surrounded the camp. Mr. Campbell went up to one mob and tried to make them understand by signs that we had peaceable intentions towards them, but they from his account seemed fully bent on having us off the ground. When he was returning to the camp Jemmy saw one of the blacks hold his boomerang as if he intended throwing it at Mr. Campbell, but he was probably advised by others not to do so. I am not surprised that they were vexed, as we would not allow them to come up to the camp, although they showed a bunch of hawk feathers and two bottles we had given them, which they wanted us to believe were the signs of their good intention; and it is not to be wondered at on the other hand that we would not trust a mob of blacks, all warriors, heavily armed with spears, boomerangs, clubs, and little thorny sticks, to approach the camp. From my previous knowledge of the blacks I fancied we would easily have driven them away on horseback, but this I did not think necessary. The mere fact of seeing the horses brought towards the camp made them retire to a more respectful distance from us; at 10.5 a.m. left Number 25 Camp; at 10.18 made half a mile north-east half north to Number 23 Camp, where I stopped with Fisherman and observed that we were not followed: at 10.45 made half a mile north-north-east up the river; at 11.23 made one mile and three-quarters north to the place where I accompanied Mr. Allison on a previous occasion westward on the plain to take an observation of the sun, at which place we overtook Campbell and party; at 11.48 made one mile north to where we observed rising ground. I left the party, accompanied by Fisherman, to ascend the rising ground; at 12.2 made half a mile north-east by east to a tree on the rise which Fisherman climbed, and from it observed plain country to the south and west and wooded country to the east and north. Here we observed stunted box and bloodwood trees, and a variety of grasses, among which I observed barley, oaten, kangaroo, and triodia; at 12.23 made one mile north by east; at 12.53 made one mile and a half north by east to the waterhole I named Kenellan, where there were the same blacks I had seen before. On this occasion they remained on the right, while we had dinner on the opposite side, during which time others to whom they cooeyed arrived at their camp, several of whom were loaded with game. These, heedless of their own camp or of us, bathed the first thing on their arrival. We shot ducks, and before leaving Kenellan presented to the blacks glass bottles of which they were very proud; at 5 made one mile and a quarter north-north-east to Lake Frances, where I bathed, and some of our party shot ducks. Started again at 5.33; at 6.40 made three miles about north-west by north (see outward route). At 6.56 made three-quarters of a mile north by west; at 7.15 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east to Mary Lake, on the lower end of which on the left bank we formed our twenty-sixth camp.

December 30th. Mary Lake. Situated on the Herbert River.

As some of our horses were not able to travel as far as Camp 21, or to any water we knew of to the northward, in one stage, without overworking them, Jemmy and I started to try and find water in the intermediate distance. Started at 5.55. At 6.5 made half a mile north-east to where we stopped till 6.20; at 6.47 made one mile and a quarter north by east; at 7.10 made one mile north by west half west to Chester Creek; at 7.28 made three-quarters of a mile about north-north-east; at 7.52 made one mile and a half north-east up the creek; at 8 made a quarter of a mile east up the creek; at 8.10 made half a mile east by south up the creek; at 8.38 made one mile north-east to where we left the creek, because the grass in the bed of it was parched up, and as we saw no deep holes. It has however high and extensive flood-marks; at 9.20 made two miles west-north-west; at 10.26 made three miles west by south to bank of Herbert River; at 10.37 made half a mile north-north-west up the river to where we left it to follow up the Hervey Creek; at 10.50 made half a mile about north-west up the creek; at 11.17 made one mile about west by north up the creek. At 11.30 made half a mile south up the creek, where I went on to the plain and took the noon altitude of the sun, which was not very satisfactory as I did not give myself sufficient time to go far enough out on the plains. Latitude from observation 19 degrees 53 minutes 39 seconds. Started back without having found water at 12.27; at 12.50 made one mile south-east back to Hervey's Creek; at 1.30 made two miles east by north to Herbert River; at 1.40 made half a mile east-south-east down the river: at 1.45 made a quarter of a mile about south-east to the strange pit on the left side of the river; at 2.45 made three miles to camp. Cantered the last half mile or so and forgot to look at the watch until a short time after our arrival.

December 31st. Mary Lake.

We left Number 26 Camp bound for Number 21 camp; at 7.32 made one mile and a half along an old track to where we crossed Chester Creek; at 9.10 made four miles and a half to First Return Camp; at 10.45 made four miles and a half along outward track to Western Wood Scrub, where, accompanied by Fisherman, I went three miles north-east by east and got an observation of the sun which made our latitude 19 degrees 47 minutes 35 seconds; at 12.50 started again; at 1.20 made one mile and a half north by west to tracks of Campbell and party; at 1.35 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east along the track; at 1.58 made one mile about north-east to where we lost the tracks, and was delayed a short time in consequence; at 4.5 made half a mile, chiefly along the track; at 5.8 made three miles, where Campbell and party had formed our twenty-seventh camp at our Outward Camp 21. During this day's journey we have crossed no watercourse that I deem worthy of notice, except Chester Creek.

Wednesday January 1st 1862.

At 21 Outwards and 27 Inwards Camp we rested the horses, some of which were very sore-footed and tired. We also observed New Year's Day by dividing a bottle of rum, sundry pots of jam, and an extra allowance of meat amongst us. The waterhole was nearly dry.

Thursday January 2nd. Number 27 camp.

At 6 a.m. we left 27 Inward and 21 Outward Camp, situated both on the right bank of the creek; at 7.35 made two miles about east by north half north down the creek; at 7.53 made three-quarters of a mile north-east to Number 20 Camp; at 8.7 made half a mile east-north-east down the creek, where we left it to go on the tableland on its left bank; at 9.5 made two miles and three-quarters north to where we crossed a small creek, which is from the west; at 10.45 made four miles and a half due north, and there, having instructed Campbell and Allison to proceed to Clifton Creek and encamp, accompanied by Fisherman, I went two miles and a half west, and made our latitude by observation of the sun 19 degrees 31 minutes 35 seconds. Jemmy I had sent back for my rifle, which was left behind. At 12.45 started to camp; at 1.47 made two miles and a half east-north-east to Camp 18 Outward and 28 Inward on Clifton Creek.

Friday January 3rd. Camp 28.

From old stubs out of cast-off shoes Mr. Allison shod a horse for Fisherman to accompany me to the O'Shanassy River. We started for it at 11.50. At 1.25 reached it, in about four miles and a half, at a point a short distance below, where we had been on it a few days ago. We found it had been flooded since we last visited it, and the holes along its bed were in consequence full of water. Judging from this that rain had fallen from the southward, I felt disposed to proceed in that direction, but considering the short time at my disposal and the condition of the horses and their want of shoes, and knowing that the time was fast approaching when the Victoria would, from want of provisions, be obliged to leave the depot at the Gulf of Carpentaria, I considered it expedient to continue my return journey.

Saturday January 4th. Camp 28.

We left Inward Camp 28 and Outward Camp 18 at 9.2. This camp is situated on Clifton Creek; at 9.38 one mile and a quarter east down the creek to the broad arrow L tree; at 10 made three-quarters of a mile north to where we left the creek; at 10.20 made three-quarters of a mile east-south-east to rich tableland; at 10.38 made half a mile south-east by south to track where Mr. Allison stayed behind to get the latitude; at 10.50 made three-quarters of a mile east; at 11.18 made three-quarters of a mile east to O'Shanassy River; at 11.52 made one mile and a half north-east by north to the junction of Clifton Creek, on which we had our last night's camp; at 12.16 made one mile north-east by north down the river; at 12.45 made one mile and a quarter east by north down the river; at 12.55 made half a mile east by north to junction of little creek from the south. Ridges on both sides, long straight race covered with blady grass, near deep reach of water, which has apparently a permanent stream; at 1.30 made half a mile east by north to where we crossed a small creek from the south; at 1.40 made half a mile east-north-east to where we crossed, near its junction with the O'Shanassy River, a watercourse from the south named by me the Douglas River; at 2.50 made one mile and a quarter north down the river to where we crossed a small creek from the south-east. The O'Shanassy has a good stream of water. On these ridges I observed marjoram. They are nearly barren and confine the river closely on both sides. At 3.15 made three-quarters of a mile north-east along a confined part of the river where it has very high flood-marks; at 3.40 made half a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a little creek from the south, near its junction. At 4.3 made quarter of a mile east down the river; at 4.15 made quarter of a mile east-south-east down the river; at 4.30 made quarter of a mile east up a gully from right side of the river; at 4.40 made quarter of a mile north-east down a gully to the river; at 4.50 made quarter of a mile east down the river to where we formed our 29th camp. Here we were joined by Mr. Allison and Jemmy. The former, near where they left us, made the latitude 19 degrees 31 minutes 49 seconds, which is nearly the same as I made it a few miles to the westward.

Sunday January 5. Camp 29.

Started at 8 a.m. and went along the edge of the river which was very confined; so much so that the horses had at one place to be led. Accompanied by Fisherman I left the party and went a few hundred yards ahead to a creek full of water to widen with a pick a path up the creek. While I was doing so Mr. Campbell reported that some of the horses had gone into the river of their own accord, and one of them was drowned although Jemmy and he had swum to its assistance. On hearing of this misfortune I came down to the river, got the two troopers to go and dive where the mare had disappeared, and they managed to get its saddle and pack on shore. Fisherman, while the things were being dried, marked the tree on the point at the junction of the watercourse with the river. The former I have named Harris Creek. At 11.56 started again at point where the tree is marked, say half a mile from camp; at 12.2 made half a mile south-south-east from river up the creek, where we crossed after a delay of eight minutes; at 12.33 made three-quarters of a mile north to where we crossed the river; at 1.2 made one mile north down the river; at 1.27 made three-quarters of a mile north-east by north to where we formed our Number 30 Camp, where the river is apparently often badly watered. At this part of the river even now it is without a running stream although recently flooded, and there is an absence of the pandanus, cabbage, and tall drooping tea-trees which crowded the bed of the river higher up and are fine signs of the permanence of the water.

Monday January 6. Camp 30.

Started from camp which is situated on left bank of O'Shanassy River at 6.52. At 7.8 made half a mile north-north-east down the left bank of the river; at 7.40 made one mile and a quarter north-east to where we crossed a creek near its junction, and also crossed to the right bank of the river; at 7.57 made half a mile north-east to where we recrossed to left bank of the river; at 8.15 made half a mile east-north-east to where we crossed a little creek near its junction. The river is still confined by barren and stony ranges and has flood-marks from thirty to forty feet high. Kangaroos are numerous on this part of the country. At 8.43 made three-quarters of a mile east to where we crossed, near its junction, a small creek from the north; at 9.12 made one mile and a quarter east by north to where there are flooded box and drooping tea-trees in the bed of the river; at 9.25 made half a mile east to where there are cabbage-trees in the river; at 9.40 made half a mile east to where there are Leichhardt and cabbage-palm-trees; at 10.5 made three-quarters of a mile north-east down the river (we have been following it when practicable on the left side) at 10.45 made one mile and a quarter east down the river where it is very confined and well watered; at 11.20 made half a mile east-north-east to opposite junction of river from south, where I, accompanied by Fisherman, left the party and crossed the river on a log to see it. We found it rather smaller than the O'Shanassy and I have named it the Thornton River. We marked a tree broad arrow before L on the point between the two rivers and started after the party at 12; at 12.25 made one mile north-north-east along the track down the river; at 12.43 made three-quarters of a mile east-north-east along track down the river; at 1.7 made one mile north to where we overtook Campbell and party, having dinner on the bed of the river. Started again after marking a tree broad arrow before L E, at 3.33; at 3.45 made half a mile north to where the confined bed of the river is at places boggy and on the edge of the waterhole the tea-trees are very tall; at 4.20 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-west and camped.

Tuesday January 7. Camp 31 is situated on the left bank of the O'Shanassy River.

We started from there at 9.10; at 9.45 made a mile and a quarter north by east down the left bank of the O'Shanassy River; at 9.55 made a mile and a quarter north-north-west to opposite junction of a watercourse which I have named the Seymour River; at 10.12 made three-quarters of a mile north-west to where we crossed a small creek with reeds in its bed at a point near its junction with the river; at 10.37 made one mile north-west by north along the left bank of the river, where we had a good road. The river is still confined by ranges which sometimes terminate with cliffs; at 10.48 made half a mile north-east to opposite junction of the creek; at 10.54 made a quarter of a mile north-east to where we crossed a small creek near its junction with the river; at 11.27 made one mile and a quarter north by east along the left bank of the river; at 11.42 made half a mile north; at 12 made three-quarters of a mile north-north-east to where we watered the horses and waited for Mr. Campbell. Started again at 12.30. At 12.53 made half a mile north-north-east. Made quarter mile north to where we waited to mount Mr. Campbell who was tired of walking. Started again at 1.3 p.m.; at 1.35 made a mile and a quarter north to opposite junction of creek from the east; at 2 made one mile west-north-west to where we formed our 32nd camp, on the left bank of the river and right bank of a gully just above the junction of a small creek with the river. If this had been a good season a fine place for the horses would have been up this gully, as the soil is good with right kind of grasses and surrounded by basaltic cliffs.

Wednesday January 8. Camp 32. Situated (as before) on the left bank of the O'Shanassy River.