Part 1

JOURNAL OF A VOYAGE ACROSS THE ATLANTIC:

WITH NOTES ON CANADA & THE UNITED STATES; AND RETURN TO GREAT BRITAIN, IN 1844

BY GEORGE MOORE, ESQ.

LONDON: PRINTED FOR PRIVATE CIRCULATION 1845.

Printed by Palmer and Clayton, Crane-court, Fleet-street.

TO ELIZA MOORE

THIS LITTLE VOLUME IS MOST AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED

BY THE AUTHOR.

PREFACE.

Having a large circle of friends who feel interested in my American trip, the propriety of publishing my observations, to avoid going over the same ground again and again, was suggested by one of them--a hint with which I have complied.

I can say, with the strictest truth, that I have not revised or altered any impression formed at the moment. Indeed, I never saw these Notes from the time they were written till they passed through the press.

Change of scene, and a new current of thoughts, with the blessing of Providence, have worked a considerable improvement in my health--a mercy for which I shall ever feel grateful; and while I prize the high privileges of the land of my birth, and feel proud to be an Englishman, I hope ever to regard our Transatlantic brethren with respect, and do full justice to the extensive wonders of America.

_London, April 30, 1845._

LOG, &c.

_Saturday, 17th August, 1844_, One o'clock, P.M.--Left Liverpool in the _Great Western_ steamship, Captain Mathews, for New York, with 138 passengers. Wind N.W., blowing a strong gale. In two hours very few passengers on deck, the ship rolling heavily. At four discharged the pilot. At half-past twelve passed Holyhead. Went to bed rather squeamish at seven.

_Sunday_ morning.--Rose at seven; was awakened by the stopping of the engine, from breaking a new wheel which had been put up to work the blowers for the fires. Detained an hour and half in consequence. Passed Tuskar at ten. Had public worship at one: the Church of England service, in which the name of the President of the United States was introduced: about seventy attended. No sermon, there being no minister on board, and the Captain not prepared.

The routine of each day appears to be this:--The gong sounds at half-past seven to rise; breakfast at nine; at twelve lunch; at half-past three dress for dinner; at four dine; half-past seven tea; very few take supper at ten; lights put out at eleven punctually.

At seven P.M. passed Cork; at nine Kinsale. 165 miles. Latitude, 51° 58' N.: Longitude, 6° 34'.

At three o'clock on _Monday_ morning, the 19th, passed Cape Clear; and when I got on deck only a distant view of the most rugged part of Ireland to be seen. It is now eight o'clock, and the passengers are beginning to show themselves, the sea having gone down, and the ship going on smoothly 9-3/4 knots. Laid down the following rules, which I hope to be able to keep:--Rise at half-past seven; walk on deck till breakfast; read at least six chapters in the Bible the first thing after breakfast; then walk on deck for an hour till lunch; afterwards write for an hour; then walk on deck for another hour; then read any books I have till dinner; between dinner and tea walk and talk, and take stock of the passengers, being some of all sorts here; after tea whist till ten, and then turn in.

The weather continues very calm, and the sea smooth. This steamer, without exception, the easiest and most comfortable I have ever sailed in. About 100 dined to-day, and the general appetite appeared to be in a satisfactory state.

211 miles. Lat. 51° 32' N.; Long. 11° 59'.

_Tuesday_, the 20th, seven A.M.--A most beautiful morning. Spent the day as usual. During dinner the wind changed to E.N.E. Set all sail below and aloft, and the engine made 12 revolutions in the minute. It was now that I became acquainted with our worthy Captain, whom I found to be a gentlemanly, courteous, obliging little fellow. Heard some German, Irish, English, and Yankee songs; and turned in at half-past ten.

193 miles. Lat. 51° 26' N.; Long. 17° 3'.

_Wednesday_, the 21st.--Rose at my usual time. Fine weather. For the first time saw a sail, a brig, standing to the south, but too distant to exchange signals. The wind fair, but very light: the engine making 12-1/2 revolutions a minute, or 94 knots an hour. Spent the day as usual.

228 miles. Lat. 51° 24' N.; Long. 23° 6'.

_Thursday_, the 22nd.--The wind changed to south; and the passengers all on deck. The sea smooth; and the engine, after being well coaled, made 14 revolutions per minute. Some heavy card-playing on board, and imprudent losses, which I much regretted to see.

220 miles. Lat. 51° 5' N.; Long. 28° 54'.

_Friday_, the 23rd.--The ship rolling from a south swell; and a very small muster at breakfast. The ladies generally ill. The wind S.E., and the ship covered with canvas. Rate 11 knots by the Log. Wind freshened up to a sharp breeze from the West; and it is now nearly three days since I have been able to put pen to paper. During dinner all the sails taken in; and the heavy pitching of the ship sent all the grumblers from the table.

259 miles. Lat. 50° 33' N.; Long. 34° 59'.

_Saturday_ morning, the 24th.--Read; talked; walked; lunched; walked and read again. At nine drank "wives and sweethearts;" and then to bed.

239 miles. Lat. 49° 27' N.; Long. 40° 55'.

_Sunday_, the 25th.--A beautiful morning, but rather foggy, as we began to approach the Banks of Newfoundland. Had a very pleasant day of reading. Had public service at one: sang the hymn of "Greenland's rocky mountain;" and Mr. Dodge, of New York, read a sermon of the Rev. Thos. Spencer's, written when he was sixteen years old, from the text "God is love." The sea calm, but very damp.

211 miles. Lat. 48° 15' N.; Long. 45° 51'.

_Monday_, the 26th.--A dense fog about the middle of the banks. Sea smooth. Going 9-1/2 knots. Spent the day as usual.

212 miles. Lat. 47° 5' N.; Long. 50° 44'.

_Tuesday_, the 27th.--Still foggy and dark, cold and comfortless. Saw lots of porpoises and whales, who walked away from us at their leisure, the steamer making miserable progress from want of steam, though wind and sea were favourable. Spent the day as usual.

209 miles. Lat. 45° 43' N.; Long. 55° 10'.

_Wednesday_, the 28th.--Sky beautifully clear; but the usual fog came on at ten, and the engines were stopped for soundings: 77 fathoms, white sand. Cape Race distant 60 miles.

229 miles. Lat. 44° 44' N.; Long. 60° 25'.

_Thursday_, the 29th.--Wind dead a-head, with a heavy sea. Only 7 knots; and many passengers in bed. At four o'clock the wind changed round, the sea smoothed down, and we had the most brilliant sunset I ever saw: it was past all description! It gave me a good impression of an American sun. The Yankees broke out into applause, and welcomed the face of Sol as that of an old and tried friend. Had a grand state-dinner to-day; and the passengers appeared to do ample justice to the viands. Passed a pleasant evening.

200 miles. Lat. 43° 4' N.; Long. 64° 14'.

We presented Captain Mathews with a memorial, signed by all the passengers, on his first trip as commander, he having been first mate to Capt. Hoskin in the _Great Western_ ever since she was launched. He richly deserved a more substantial mark of our regard for his unremitting attentions.

The following was the Bill of Fare:--

BREAKFAST.

Dishes. Dishes. Beefsteaks 4 Omelets 8 Mutton Chops -- Boiled Eggs 100 Pork Chops 4 Homony 6 Ham and Eggs 10 Hash -- Fried Bacon 6 Mush -- Fricasee Chicken -- Fried Fish (Soles) 5 Veal Cutlets 4 Do. Potatoes -- Stews 6

DINNER.

Soup--Mock Turtle 6 Boiled Fowls 3 pair Boiled Fish--Salmon Corned Beef 1 and Lobster Sauce 4 Corned Pork -- Baked Fish -- Ham 1 Roast Beef 3 Tongues 2 Saddles of Mutton 2 Fricandeau -- Roast Lamb 2 Mutton Cutlets 8 Roast Turkey 2 Macaroni 4 Roast Veal -- Curry -- Roast Pig 1 Irish Stew -- Olive Ducks 3 pair Calf's Head 2 Roast Fowls -- Roast Hare 5 Roast Geese 1 Lobster Patties 6 Boiled Mutton 2 Chicken Salad 8 Gullenteen Turkeys 4

PASTRY.

Plum Pudding 5 Mince Pies 6 Apple Dumpling 8 Damson Pies -- Raspberry Rollers 2 Cherry Pies 4 Baked Apple Pudding 5 Rice Pudding 8 Apple Pies 7 Orange ditto 5 Cranberry Pies 7 Custard ditto -- Raspberry Puffs 8 Bergnets -- Plum Pies 7 Brandy Fruits 8

WINES, JELLIES, AND BLANCHEMANGE.

August 29th, 1844.

* * * * *

_Friday._--Saw land to-day for the first time since we left Cape Clear; and heartily sick of the Atlantic. Saw Lantucket at two P.M. The atmosphere mild and warm. Paid my wine-bill to Crawford, the head steward, a black; who, by the way, had got well threshed for nigger-driving the second steward. Finished my letters for England in hopes of catching the Boston steamer, which leaves New York at five P.M. on Saturday.

210 miles. Lat. 41° 18' N.; Long. 68° 18'.

_Saturday._--A beautiful morning. The wind changed. All the passengers on deck. The pilot (who had come out 160 miles to get the job, a very intelligent fellow) lent me a New York paper. A good many vessels in sight. Came close to Long Island. All bustle and confusion packing. Our boat did her best, but we saw we should be too late for the mail. Got to Sandy Hook at five; the Narrows at six; and up the East River at seven. Passed Fort Hamilton; and at half-past seven landed in New York.

The confusion on landing baffled all description. Hundreds of pickpockets were on the look-out. We sojourned at the Astor House Hotel. Had a warm-bath, and retired to rest grateful that I was once more on _Terra firma_.

265 miles. Passage altogether 3022 miles in fourteen days.

_Sunday_, 1st September.--Rose at six. Took a car with my companion, Mr. K----, of Liverpool, and went down to the _Great Western_ for our luggage. We met with great civility from the Custom-house officers. They would not allow luggage to pass after sunset the previous evening. After breakfast we heard service at Dr. Spring's Chapel, a Presbyterian: a beautiful chapel, and a respectable congregation, and all in their pews before the minister ascended the pulpit: the text was, "The Lord reigneth:" the singing was good: the service terminated at twelve. The weather awfully hot: the thermometer stood at 92° in the shade. Dined at half-past two: 300 sat down to a splendid dinner, everything that could tempt the appetite or please the epicure. Tea at seven; and supper at ten, if required.

I may here remark that Astor House is the largest hotel in the world. They make up five hundred beds regularly, but could make up eight hundred: about sixty waiters; five regular clerks; twenty-one washerwomen; five manglers (all of which is done by steam); twelve cooks. Take it for all in all,

"I ne'er shall see its like again."

Their system is as much carried out as Morrison's, Fore-street. You never have occasion to ring the bell twice: they have twenty rotunda men who do nothing else but answer bells and carry out parcels. My first impression of New York on the Sunday morning was that it resembled Paris.

Population, 350,000. Lat. 40° 42' N.; Long. 74° 2-1/2'.

I here subjoin the Bill of Fare. For eating and bed two dollars per day, including servants.

_GENTLEMEN'S ORDINARY._

SOUP.

Mock Turtle Soup.

FISH.

Baked Black Fish, Claret sauce, Clam Chowder.

BOILED.

Corned Beef, Chickens and Pork, Ham, Smoked Corned Beef, Tongue, Leg of Mutton. ---------- Cold Pressed Corned Beef, Cold Corned Leg of Pork, Cold Roast Beef, Cold Roast Lamb.

SIDE DISHES.

Lobster Salad, Small Birds, Port Wine sauce, Mutton Chops, breaded, Small Oyster Pies, Rib of Beef, Champagne sauce, Ducks, Spanish sauce, Pigeons with fine Herbs, Veal, Tomato sauce, Broiled Chickens, Steward's Macaroni, sauce Eels, Cold Sauce, Calf's Head, Brain sauce, Beans and Pork.

VEGETABLES.

Boiled Potatoes, Onions, Boiled Rice, Corn, Turnips, Beets, Tomatoes, Cabbage, Fried Egg Plants, Shelled Beans.

ROAST.

Beef, Chicken, Pig, Geese, Lamb and Mint sauce.

PASTRY.

Peach Pie, Kisses, Lemon Pudding, Custard Pie, Fruit Jelly.

DESSERT.

Filberts, Almonds, Raisins, Oranges, Figs, Plums, Apples, Pears, Melons, Peaches, &c.

ICE CREAM.

D. C. MOSELLE.

Seister Water Price per bottle, 0 75 Moselle, 1831 1 50

SAUTERNE.

Sauterne 1 00 Morton's Y. Chem 2 00 Pints 1 00

HOCK.

Markgraefer, delicate 1 00 Rudeshoimer, 1834, pints 1 50 Marcobrunner 2 00 Steinberger Cabinet, 1831 2 50 Sparkling Hock 2 00 Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenberg of 1831 3 00 Ausbruck Cabinet Graffenburg, 1831 4 00 Ausbruck Cabinet Rothenburg, 1822 4 00 Cabinet Schloss Johannisberger, 1822 5 00 Prince Metternich's Castle, bottled, yellow seal, 1831 5 00 Metternich's Castle, bottled, red seal, 1822 5 00 Prince Metternich's celebrated Castle, bottled, gold seal, Johannisberger vintage 1822 8 00

CHAMPAGNE.

Schreider 2 00 Napoleon 2 00 Cliquot 2 00 Heidsieck 2 00 Ruinart 2 00 Perriot 2 00 Star 2 00 Venoge, J.T.B. 2 00 Duc de Montabello, dry 2 00 Do. do. sweet 2 00 Do. do. Ladies' wine 2 00 Pints do. do. 1 00

CLARET.

Table Claret 0 50 Do. do. 0 75 Pints of Barsolou 1 00 St. Estephe, V. Barsalou 1 00 St. Julien, do. 1 25 Leoville, do. 1 50 Pontet Canet, do. 1 50 Chateau Latour, do. 1 75 Battailly, Barton, and Guestier, 1834 1 50 Chateau Beychevelle, do. 1834 2 00 Mouton, do. 1834 2 50 Latour, do. 1834 3 00 Chateau Lafitte, do. 1834 3 00 Chateau Margeaux, do. 1834 3 00 St. Julien, in pint bottles, V.B. 0 75 Leoville do. do. 0 75 Pontet Canet, do. do. 0 75 Latour, do. do. 1 00 Lafitte 1 00

PORT.

Particular 2 00 Tower 2 50 Brazil 2 50

BURGUNDY.

Macon 1 50 Do. pints 0 75 Pouilly, White Burgundy 1 50 Do. do. pints 0 75 Pomard 2 50 Chambertin 3 00 Romanee 3 00 Vosne 3 00

SHERRY.

Harmony, Amontillado, delicious 3 00 Sherry, Pale, N.O. 1 00 Sherry, S.S. 1 00 Yriarte, Pale, delicate 2 00 Yriarte, Gold G. 2 00 Crowley (Sayres) Gold 2 50 Do. do. Brown, extra 2 50 Do. do. Amontillado 3 00 Imperial, Pale 4 00 Brown, imported in glass 4 00 Romano, do. very old 3 00 Romano, Pale, very old 3 00 Lobo, Brown, FO, long bottled 3 50 Ne Plus Ultra 4 00

MADEIRA.

Henry Clay, imported into Boston in 1826. 3 00 Madeira, F.B. 1 00 Madera Oliveiro 1 50 L.P. Madeira 2 00 Blackburne's 2 00 Blackburne's Reserve 2 50 Howard, March, and Co.'s Madeira, imported for the Astor House, F. 2 00 Newton, Gordon, and Murdock's (GM) 2 00 Oliveires Reserve, 17 years old 2 50 E.I. Leacock, old, dry 2 50 Leacock, M.L., imported, 1826, into New Orleans 3 00 Murdock, Yuille, and Woodrope, MY 3 00 Yellow Seal, original N.G.M. delicate 3 00 D.V. Sercial, very delicate 3 00 Brazil, V.I. very old, a favourite wine 3 00 Brown Seal, old Monteiras, 'superior' 3 00 Nabob 3 50 Red Seal, old, bottled, East India 3 50 Eclipse Madeira 4 00 Rapid, imported 1818 4 00 Green Seal, Virginia Madeira, light and very delicate 4 00 White Top, very old and delicate 4 00 Thorndike, very old and 'superior' 4 50 Edward Tuckerman, Esq., Scott, Laughnan, Penfold, and Co.'s, imported 1820, P.M. 5 00 Gratz, yellow seal, 1806 5 00 Do. green seal, 1806 5 00 Do. black seal, 1806 5 00 Do. red seal, bottled 1806 5 00 Wanton, exceedingly delicate, thirty years in wood, W. 5 00 John A. Gordon's Madeira, imported into Philadelphia 1798 5 00 Caroline, an old family-wine 5 00 Gordon, Buff, Inglis, and Co.'s, imported by H.G. Otis and Edward Tuckerman, Esq., 1811, G. 5 00 Stalk's Madeira, bottled in Calcutta, imported 1825 6 00 Hurd's Madeira, bottled in 1822 in Calcutta 5 00 Essex, Jr., imported 1819 6 00 Smith and Huggins, Dyker's White top, bottled in 1800 in St. Eustatia 7 00 Tuckerman's B., 1810 7 00 Thorndike's A., 1809 8 00 Wedding Wine 8 00 Gov. Philip's Wine 9 00 Gov. Kirby's original bottles, OO 12 00

* * * * *

_Monday_ morning, the 2nd.--After breakfast despatched three-quarters of a hundred newspapers to my old and valued friends in England. They keep no stock on hand for promiscuous sale: they printed them on purpose for me. After which I visited the business parts. All the streets filled with empty cases, which they had just cleared for the Fall trade: auctioneers hammering away in all corners, knocking goods about as if they cost nothing. In the stores there appears no system--all is confusion. The heat was awful till seven P.M., when the rain came down in torrents: at the same time the atmosphere was brilliantly lighted by flashes of electric fire. Took Mr. and Mrs. Green to the Park Theatre, to patronize Anderson as _Othello_, Miss Clara Ellis as _Desdemona_, and a Mr. Dowsett as _Iago_, all of whom crossed with us. A poor set out. Theatrical property in the States, I understand, is at a greater discount than in England. Poor Mr. Simpson, whom I sat next to in my passage, is the proprietor--a worthy man, and much esteemed. To bed at eleven.

_Tuesday._--A long day of business. Observed with regret their loose mode. All busy; and they appear to think good times will last for ever. Nearly all have failed at one time or the other. Bankers discounting liberally at present; and all appear to be trying who can sell cheapest. Retired to rest at eleven, lost in amazement, and the reflection that this state of things cannot last long.

_Wednesday._--Ascertained the geography of the town pretty well; and so I ought, for I walked till I was nearly red in the face, and my shirt wet through. Engaged at the present moment, ten P.M., writing this, with all my bedroom windows open, and in my shirt. _Hot!_ HOT!! VERY HOT!!!

_Thursday._--Called upon Mr. J.J. Echalaz, at Goodhue and Co.'s, where I received marked attention from both Mr. E. and his employers. When I introduced my letters from E.B. Webb, at Baring's, got some valuable information, and letters of introduction to Philadelphia, Boston, Baltimore, Washington, and Canada. Afterwards took a turn amongst the retail-shops, to see their system. Mr. Stewart, Broadway, and a few others, are done upon the London style, but the lower class take any price they can get. Disco-

[Transcriber's Note: One page of text is missing here (page 15 in the original work).]

superintendent has a higher object than his pay. God grant that he may long be spared!--We then saw the avenues; and, as "variety is charming," we then visited Niblo's Theatre--something like what Vauxhall was: lots of handsome girls performing nonsense; and two or three men, more particularly one named Mitchell, kept us in roars of laughter. Bussed it home: no conductor: the driver has a strap with which he shuts and opens the door, and you pay him through a hole in the roof. To bed at eleven. Began to like my companion very much: found him a sober, religious, industrious man, who studies to make himself agreeable.