Part 1

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+---------------------------------------------------------+ | Transcriber's note: | | | | Turkish names seem to be spelled generally in French, | | which was the Lingua Franca of the period. These have | | not been corrected. The correct Turkish spellings of | | some of these names are given at the end of the book. | +---------------------------------------------------------+

JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, &c. &c.

"You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red books, if they are not rubbed out; for I conclude you have not trusted every thing to memory, which is ten times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on or near the spot, is worth a cart load of recollection."

GRAY's _Letters_.

London: Printed by A. Spottiswoode, New-Street-Square.

JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, AND SOME OF THE GREEK ISLANDS, IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1833.

by

JOHN AULDJO, ESQ. F.G.S.

Author of "The Ascent of Mont Blanc," "Sketches of Vesuvius," Etc.

London: Longman, Rees, Orme, Brown, Green, & Longman, Paternoster-Row. 1835.

TO

SIR WILLIAM GELL.

DEAR SIR,

On quitting Naples, for those scenes which your pen and pencil have so faithfully illustrated, I promised to fill my note book. I now offer you its contents, as a small and unworthy token of my gratitude for the long continued kindness you have shown.

Your faithful and obedient servant,

THE AUTHOR.

_Naples, April, 1835._

PREFACE.

The publication of the pages of a journal in the crude and undigested form in which they were originally composed appears so disrespectful to the public, that it requires some explanation. They were written, "currente calamo," among the scenes they describe; more as a record of individual adventure, and to fix the transient impressions of the moment for the after gratification of the author, than with any hope of affording amusement during an idle hour, even to those who might feel an interest in all he saw and noted.

The intense curiosity, however, which exists at present to learn even the minutest particulars connected with Greece and Turkey, and the possibility that some of his hurried notices might not be altogether devoid of interest, have induced the author to submit them to the public attention. In so doing, he has preferred giving them in their original state, with all their defects, to moulding them into a connected narrative; his object being not to "make a book," but to offer his desultory remarks as they arose; to present the faint outline he sketched upon the spot, rather than attempt to work them into finished pictures.

With some hope, therefore, of receiving indulgence from the critics, whose asperity is rarely excited except by the overweening pretensions of confident ignorance and self-sufficiency, he ventures on the ground already trodden by so many distinguished men, whose works, deep in research, beautiful in description, and valuable from their scrupulous fidelity, have left little to glean, and rendered it a rather hazardous task for an humble and unskilful limner to follow in their wake.

While thus disclaiming all pretensions to the possession of their enviable talents, still, if the author should succeed in affording his readers a few hours' pleasure from the perusal of his Journal, or enable any one to re-picture scenes he may himself have visited, the principal object of its publication will have been attained.

_Naples, April, 1835._

TABLE OF CONTENTS Page

Departure of H.M.S. Actaeon with the British Embassy to Constantinople 1

Island of Capri. Moonlight Scene 3

My first Night at Sea 4

Sunday on Board 5

Schoolmaster of the Actaeon. Muster of the Crew 6

Stromboli. Somma. Vesuvius 7

Scylla and Charybdis. Homer 8

The Faro. Messina. Preparations to land 9

Sea-sickness. A Host of Grievances 10

Man overboard. Life 11

Cerigo. Taygetus 12

Piping up the Watch. Pursers Bantam 13

Nauplia de Malvoisie 14

Classic Reminiscences. Argos 15

Sharks. Greek Costume 16

Character of King Otho 17

Hydra. Egina. Poros. Russian Fleet 19

Beautiful Landscape. Gulf of Salamis 20

Athens. The Piraeus. Olive Grove 21

English Residents at Athens 22

Visit to the Acropolis. Death of the Chieftain Ulysses 23

Insolence of the Turks 24

Grave of Tweddel. Byron's Grave 25

Armenian Missionaries. Temple of Theseus 26

Metropolis of modern Greece 27

Modern Improvements. Sir P. Malcolm 28

Value of Land. Speculators Plain of Troy. Fidelity of Sir W. Gell's Map 30

Sources of the Scamander. The Golden Xanthus 31

Tombs of Hector and Paris. Bounarbashi 32

The Simois. Rural Excursion. Segean Promontory. Tombs of Achilles and Patroclus 33

Passage of the Dardanelles. Influenza 34

Present to the Ambassador. French Fleet 35

Feast of the Bairam. Oriental Splendour 36

Sestos. Turkish Colonel. Castles of the Dardanelles 37

Beautiful Scene. Turkish Salute 38

First View of Constantinople. The Seven Towers 39

The Pasha's Gate. The Slaves' Gate 40

Sultanas. Golden Horn. Beauties of Stamboul 41

Pera. Scutari. Approach of the Actaeon to her Anchorage 42

Turkish Fleet. Size and Condition of the Ships 43

Castle of the Janissaries. Royal Kiosk. Turkish Houses 44

Unwelcome Visitation. Giants' Mountain. Russian Camp. Saluting the Russian Fleet 45

Jealousy and Remonstrance of the Russian Admiral. French and English Embassies 46

Russian Military Music. Plague. Orange and Jasmine Bowers 47

The Caique. Turkish Boatmen 48

Paras. Splendid Fountain. Tophana 49

Pera. Destructive Fire. Guiseppino Vitali 50

Mr. Cartwright, British Consul. A Sail upon the Bosphorus 51

Funeral of a Russian Soldier 52

Landing of the British Ambassador 53

Greek and Armenian Women. Visit to the Bazaars 54

Public Promenades. Oriental Perfumes 56

Pipe-stick Bazaar. Amber Mouth-pieces 57

Value of the Turkish Pipe 58

Salonica Tobacco. The Nargile 59

Coffee Houses. Shoe Bazaar 60

Jewellery. Broussa Silks 61

Close of the Bazaars. Funeral of the Sultan's Physician 62

Lord Ponsonby's Audience 63

His Reception. Count Orloff 64

Admiral Roussin. Naval Punishments 65

Cricket. Turkish Fleet 66

Cabobs. Rapacity of the Sultan. "Valley of the Sweet Waters" 67

Naval Arsenal. Cemeteries 68

Palace. Turkish Horses 69

Interesting Scene. Beautiful Greek 70

The Erraba. Turkish Ladies 71

Dancing Dervishes 73

Greek Bookseller 76

Mosque of Solimanie 77

Seraskier's Tower. Conflagrations 78

View of Constantinople. Hermitage on Vesuvius. Burnt Pillar 79

Hippodrome 80

The Author in danger of arrest. Anecdote. St. Sophia 81

Visit to the Seraglio. Effects of a Golden Key 82

Coffee Shop in a Plane-tree. Funeral Pomp 83

Costume. Mustapha the Scent Dealer. Beed Caimac. Mahalabe 84

Turkish Printing Office. Anecdote of a Sultana 85

Ibrahim Pasha. Affront offered to the Captain of the Actaeon 87

Insolence of the Russians. Military Punishments 88

Sultan's Valley. Buyukdere. Aqueduct 89

Cossack Horses. Russians hated by the Turks 90

Horn Bands. Beautiful Airs 91

Fondness of the Turks for Champagne. A Venetian Story 92

College of Pages. Christian Burying-ground 93

Sultan's Visit to the Mosque 94

Politeness of a Turkish Officer. The successful Shot 95

Namik Pasha. Count Orloff and the Sultan 96

The Procession. Turkish Horses. Appearance and Dress of the Grand Signior 97

His Bacchanalian Propensities. Laughable Anecdote 98

New Regulation Soldier 99

Palace of the British Embassy 100

Scene in the Arm Bazaar 101

George Robins. Curious Weapons. Damascus Blades. Turkish Merchants 102

Swords of Khorassan. Their Temper 103

Jew Brokers. Actaeon 104

Humours of a Turkish Auction 105

Slave Market 106

A Georgian Beauty. Scarcity of white Slaves 108

Price of a Female Slave. Turkish Confectionary 109

Armenian Visiteos. Residence of an Armenian Gentleman 110

Oriental Costume 111

Turks. Armenians. Greeks 112

Jew Interpreters. Flattering Compliment to the English Character 113

Oriental Politeness. Portraits 114

Decrease of Fanaticism. Persian Silk. St. John's Egypt 115

Cashmere Shawls. Angora Shalee. Ladies' Dresses 116

Hummums 117

Eastern Story-teller 121

Matthews at Constantinople. Turkish Politeness. Description of an "At Home" in Stamboul 122

Naval Banquet 128

Seven Towers 131

Tomb of Ali Pasha 134

Russian Insolence 136

Visit to Ibrahim Pasha 137

Violent Conduct of the Russians to an English Gentleman 138

Laughable Anecdote of a Turk 139

Beautiful Scene. Contrasted Manners of the Turks and Greeks 141

The Muezzin 144

Madame Mauvromati. The Plague 146

Massacre of the Greeks 147

Anecdote of the Sultan 148

Neapolitan Steam-boat. English Travellers 151

Jewish Musician. Merry Greeks 152

Greek Lady. Elegant Costume 153

Affability of the Turkish Females 156

The Pilot of the Actaeon and the Seraskier 157

Foreign Visitors 159

Oriental Beauty 160

The Ottoman Empire. Lord Grey 162

Morning Prayer. The Muezzin 163

Sunrise. Power of Religion on the Heart 164

Russian Camp. Lady Ponsonby 165

Russian Insolence to an English Party 166

Namik Pasha. Tahir Pasha 167

Excursion on the Black Sea. Beauties of the Seraglio 168

The Symplegades 169

Colour of the Black Sea. Experiment the Test of Truth 170

Character of the Russians by a Turkish Innkeeper 171

Grand Review. Splendid Staff 172

Giant's Mountain 174

Extensive Prospects. Mt. Olympus 175

Prince Butera and the Sultan 177

Detention of the Steamer. Illiberal Conduct of the Prince 178

Royal Country Seat 180

Insecurity of Property. The Bowstring 181

Author's Preparations to Depart. H. M. Ship Actaeon. Lord Ponsonby 182

Visit to the Mosques. St. Sophia 183

Fate of Constantinople. Tribute of Respect to Lord Ponsonby 189

Armenian Painter. Poetical Description of Constantinople 190

My fellow-Passengers 192

Marble Quarries. Isle of Marmora 193

Greek Deputation. Anecdote 194

Pleasant Dormitory. Extraordinary Transformation 196

British Fleet. Gulf of Smyrna 199

French Squadron. King of Greece 200

Smyrna. Excessive Heat 201

Departure for Syra 202

Accident. Island of Scio 203

Island of Tinos. Quarantine 204

Landing of the King. Ship Launch 206

Festival of St. John the Baptist 208

Syra. Bishop's Palace 209

Ladies of Mycone. Costume 210

Delos. Vulgar Tourists 211

Modern Antique 213

Naxos. Paros. Beautiful Anchorage 214

Visit to Antiparos 215

Marine Prospects. Spotico 216

Entrance to the Cavern 217

Perilous Descent 218

Melodramatic Scene 219

Description by a Naval Officer. Magnificent Passage 224

Excessive Terror. Disappearance of the Guides 226

Splendid Transition 227

Dimensions of the Grotto 228

Terrified Frenchman. Our Return 229

A Hint to the Ladies. Ludicrous Scene 231

Port of Milo 232

Warlike Mountaineers 233

Anecdote 234

Parting of the Royal Brothers 235

Cerigo. Gulf of Coron. Zante 236

Distant View of Etna. Valetta 238

Lazzaretto. Days of Quarrantine 240

The Parlatorio 241

Persian Carpets. The Mantilla. Maltese Women 242

Medical Examination. Steamer from Corfu 243

Valetta. Maltese Gazette 244

Garrison of Malta. Strange Conduct of the Prince 245

Lady Briggs's Ball. Alicata 246

Miserable State of Sicily. Girgenti 247

Temple of Hercules. Concord 248

Reflections. Coliseum. The Parthenon 249

Temple of Giants. Galley Slaves. Custom-house 250

Marsala. Mazzara. Vintage 251

Palermo. Orange and Lemon Groves 252

Duchess de Berri 253

Scene on Board 254

Capri. Conclusion 256

_Addenda._

List of the Turkish Fleet in the Bosphorus, and of Mohammed Ali's Navy 257

State of the Thermometer at Constantinople 258

Note to page 24 259

JOURNAL OF A VISIT TO CONSTANTINOPLE, ETC.

[Sidenote: DEPARTURE OF THE ACTAEON.] _Saturday, 6th April, 1833._--Well! All seems at length arranged, and the oft postponed departure of H. M. S. Actaeon for Constantinople, will probably take place this evening. But is there no chance of a further detention? Yes; and many a palpitating heart watches anxiously the state of the heavens.

The morning had been dark and stormy, and heavy vapours rolled along from the north: about noon, however, the weather brightened; yet an occasional cloud, passing over and discharging its liquid contents on the lovely Naples, afforded some expectation that the evening might prove unfavourable. If there were heaving bosoms on shore, there were responding hearts on board; where there were few, indeed, who did not feel some pang at bidding the syren city farewell.

The St. Lucia was thronged with numerous groups of pedestrians, and a long line of carriages, with "weeping beauty filled,"--all manifesting a deep interest in the scene. Sailors have generous hearts, which, like wax, are soon warmed, and easily impressed; but as easily the image may be effaced. Thus ladies assert, that blue jackets

"In every port a true love find."

Reflections akin to these, probably, may have tortured more than one of the fair spectators; and mamma, perhaps, considered it extremely mortifying that an opportunity was not given to _land_ the prize, as well as _hook_ it; and that sailors, like jacks, were exceedingly difficult to catch.

Boats pass rapidly to and from the ship;--the yards are manned; the ambassador's flag flies at the main; and as the smoke from the salute cleared away, the shore, with its precious and weeping burthen, was seen fast receding from the sight. The Actaeon had actually sailed; and the white handkerchiefs, with the ivory arms that waved them, gradually became lost to the view, till distance mingled the entire scene into one grey mass, and

"All was mist, and Naples seen no more."

Such were the transactions that marked the 6th of April, 1833, when I became one of the ship's company, and received an honourable place in her log.

[Sidenote: ISLAND OF CAPRI.] We were compelled to pass close under Capri[1], and its bold perpendicular cliffs towered magnificently above us, casting a deep shadow over the vessel as she sailed along. There was little wind outside the isle, and we were nearly becalmed; but this delay was amply compensated by the extreme beauty of the night. The brilliant moon, shining with far greater lustre than I ever remember to have witnessed, during the height of summer, in less favoured climes, lighted up with its silver beams the whole of that beautiful coast extending along the bay of Salerno, from Amalfi to Palinuro. Long did I remain upon deck, gazing on

"Heaven's ebon vault, Studded with stars unutterably bright; Through which the moon's unclouded grandeur rolls."

[Sidenote: MY FIRST NIGHT AT SEA.] But at length, overcome by weariness, I hastened to my cot.--My cot! how shall I describe thee? thou oblong, narrow, swinging thing! rest still a while, nor fly me thus each time I essay to get within thy narrow precincts. Oh! for a chair, a stool, a rope; or have they purposely swung thee so high? hadst thou been o'er a gun, indeed, one might have scaled thee by the breech. So! In at last; yet, with that eternal sentinel walking his rounds within a few paces of my ear, how is it possible to sleep? Exhausted, however, by the novelty and excitement of the past day, at length wearied nature asserted her rights; and I had just begun to sink into a refreshing slumber, when "Quarter," rang in my ears: again I start; ducks cackle, geese scream, pigs grunt, cocks crow, men bawl; all the horrors of the incantation scene in Der Freyschuetz would seem to accompany that same striking of the bells.

"A ship is a thing you never can sleep quiet in,"

says an old song; and most feelingly did I subscribe to the veracious assertion: at length, towards morning, by dint, I think, of conning over that very line, I once more fell asleep.

But my slumbers were of short duration, for with daylight came the order, "Wash decks." Then began slushing and swabbing, and bumping my cot. All the live stock, too, were again in motion, and in fact, I soon perceived it would be better at once to turn out. This was neither easy nor agreeable, the deck being drenched with wet. However, I made up for my night's restlessness by a hearty breakfast, and appeared on the quarter-deck with a face exhibiting no symptoms of squeamishness. We are making for Stromboli, which was visible in the horizon.

[Sidenote: SUNDAY ON BOARD.] _Sunday, 7th._--This morning, after the crew had appeared at quarters,--that is, every man to his station,--the bell rang for divine service, and all the chairs and benches above and below, were put in requisition. The captain then read prayers on the main deck, in a manner at once solemn and impressive. It may here be remarked, that, when the ship carries out an ambassador, the youngsters are exempt from school duties, and their holidays on the present occasion are likely to be of considerable duration. The schoolmaster of the Actaeon is a Scotchman, and his office cannot be an enviable one, if half the tricks in store for him be ever put in practice; while the fact of his hammock being swung close alongside those of his pupils, by no means diminishes the facility of their execution. To-day being Sunday, we dined at three o'clock; and our band, consisting of a drummer and amateur fifer, played us to table with the well-known enlivening air of "The roast beef of old England."