Part 3

In the centre of each terrace is a noble flight of steps thirty-six feet wide at the bottom, but at the top the width is only fifteen feet; containing in each from twenty-five to twenty-seven steps. The view of these from the avenue or road by M. Lennie's house, is really grand: the different flights of steps from this point of view appear to form one connected tier leading to the palace, which, with its magnificent orange trees and groups of sculpture, strike the eye of every stranger with admiration. I here congratulated myself on being alone, and left to examine and take the dimensions of the various objects, without being hurried. At a short distance from the lower terrace is an oval basin of water, surrounded by a grass lawn and a gravel walk, or rather carriage drive; and on the exterior side of the circular sweep of the gravel, are placed twelve large statues. This basin was originally intended for a fountain; the reservoir for supplying it was formed by Frederic the Great on an eminence on the north side of Sans-Souci palace, where it must be several hundred feet above the level of the basin of water where the fountain was intended to be placed. The effect from the palace windows and from several other points of view, if it had been completed, would have been very magnificent when the water was playing. At a short distance from the palace is another large building, which was occupied by a part of the establishment; in front is a large piece of pleasure ground, in which are placed also a number of very fine orange trees; one of them, pointed out to me, is named after _Frederic the Great_, his majesty being a great admirer of these trees, insomuch, that during the war he took possession of all the best that came in his way, and sent them to his royal gardens at Potsdam. The head of this tree, named Frederic the Great, was equal to one of our ordinary sized Portugal laurels, its branches extend over seventeen yards of ground in diameter. I should imagine there must be fully 400 trees grown in this establishment, all of large dimensions. The soil in which they are grown consists of a black sandy loam, well incorporated with cow-dung and rotten leaf mould, with a mixture of bone dust, in some cases horn shavings. The houses for the protection of the orange trees in the winter season, are simply a long range or ranges of red tiled roofed buildings, with merely upright lights in the front or south side, which are provided with wooden shutters that are closed during frosty weather. The flues run along in the floor of the house, and are not calculated to give out much heat, but the roof and back wall being opaque, and the front furnished with shutters, little heat is required for preserving the trees from the frost. They are generally turned out of doors in the month of May, and not taken in again until October. Arranged along with the orange trees I observed a very fine specimen of the _Nerium Oleander_, covered with blossom, also several fine plants of the pomegranate, covered with flowers. The figs were also in prolific state against a wall and growing in light sandy loam. At the opposite end of the palace is situated the picture gallery, which opens into another garden department, with hornbeam hedges, and numerous box edging scrolls; but this piece of ground is evidently not much attended to: the walks, flowers, borders, are not in good order. The collection of paintings, however, in the gallery will infinitely repay the visitor for the disappointment he may experience in the badly kept garden. This gallery is two hundred and fifty-two feet long, and thirty-six feet wide; the dome and cove ceiling are richly gilt, the floor and walls inlaid with marble. The paintings are very numerous, and in beautiful preservation. Those taken from this gallery by Buonaparte and again replaced in the spot they originally occupied, are particularly pointed out to the visitor. I observed on each side of the door, as we entered this gallery, two very fine marble statues, one of _Diana_, the other of _Louis_ XVI. A straight avenue or drive leading from the Potsdam road, in a direct line by the front of the terraces at Sans-souci, to the new palace, is of considerable length. At the extremity of this avenue is the magnificent palace built by _Frederic_, after the completion of the wars in which he was engaged. It is said to have been erected with the English subsidy; however this may be, it is undoubtedly a very magnificent building.

The grounds leading from this and Sans-souci palace are all laid out as pleasure-ground, with numerous walks and roads, leading in various directions, which are very well kept; but the grass lawn here is rather rough, and not much attended to. The quantity of sculpture placed throughout these grounds is truly astonishing; at almost every intersection of the walks, various statues or busts are placed, and likewise in different recesses that are formed out of the road and walk edges.

Along the front of the new palace, facing towards Potsdam, is arranged a row of very fine orange trees, with several pieces of sculpture.

The garden ground extends considerably to the north of the palace, where it is much varied, and commands an extensive view of the adjoining scenery and country. The Belvidere and terraces here are also prominent objects. I was much pleased with a piece of trellissing that surrounded the oval spot of ground at the south side of the palace. This trellis projects about twenty-one feet on one side, and forms an oblong square about forty-two feet long. The side next the oval consists of eight round columns, formed by thin flat iron bars, opposite to which are openings to correspond, that look into a running stream of water, that separates the park or pleasure ground from a piece of kitchen-garden ground on the opposite side. The peculiarity of this trellissing is in its handsome projecting cornice, with columns at nine feet apart, formed by the flat iron bars. Arched recesses are likewise made between these columns, about five feet wide, and nine feet in height. The entire height of this trellis with the cornice is twelve feet, and was evidently originally gilt, but it is now in a corroded and decaying state; not a vestige of paint is even to be seen upon it.

At a very short distance from this splendid palace is a piece of vegetable ground enclosed with formal clipt hornbeam hedges, which ought to be removed, as it disfigures that part of the grounds, and is much too close to the palace. The walks and lawn adjoining were in pretty good order, especially the former.

Leading from the palace to a royal chateau that has been lately erected, is a very fine carriage drive, winding through a flat piece of ground, which is laid out principally after the English fashion. This residence is also inhabited by one of the royal princes. I was much pleased with the quantity of grapes growing on a double terrace, or rather covered walk, which was completely crowded with vines and its fruits; the lower walk ran alongside of a wall, and the trellis and arches projected about twelve feet from it, and were twelve feet in height. Over the top of this wall is another trellissed walk, which is also completely covered with grapes; it leads up to the palace windows, and is about two hundred feet in length. Adjoining it, and in front of the windows, is a small flower-garden, elevated above the ground level I should imagine about twelve feet: we ascend to it by a flight of steps at the furthest end; the side next the palace is nearly on the same level as the window sills. There are several fountains in it, and a few clumps of the _Petunia violacea_, but nothing else of interest.

Connected with this terrace garden, but on the ground level, is a piece of ground laid out in various beds, principally furnished with dahlias. Here is a handsome marble fountain or column, and a well formed sheet of water.

About three hundred yards from this spot is _Charlottenhoff_, a handsome erection, which is used occasionally as a tea or coffee room. This building is surrounded by numerous walks, and columns with vines trained against them. Ascending a flight of steps, that leads to a point of view looking down upon a fountain, playing with great force. This spot is tastefully laid out, and in very neat order. Several other ornamental erections are placed in these grounds, but to attempt to describe them all would require an actual residence for some weeks. The royal palace of Potsdam is a magnificent building, in the form of a quadrangle. The interior apartments contain numerous objects of interest, which as being highly estimated by _Frederic the Great_, are particularly pointed out to the stranger. The arm chair which he was in the habit of using, is still in a good state of preservation; I was much pleased with the magnificence of the rooms; the paintings and furniture are very splendid, and in good preservation. The ground attached to this palace consists of a flat surface, extending towards the south, as far as the river Havel, and is laid out in clumps of trees, various walks; the space next the palace is a larger piece of gravel, which is daily used for the exercise of the military. Adjoining it are numerous avenues of horse chesnuts, and busts of ornamental sculpture placed along the first row of trees, as well as some in various other positions. Opposite the south, or principal front of the palace, is an oblong piece of water, in the middle of which is placed a noble group of Neptune and his sea horses, which has a very grand effect, but the water is kept rather low and filthy, which might be easily remedied, as the river Havel passes within a few yards of it. By the edge of the river, in a marshy spot of ground, I observed a large quantity of the _Hydrocharis morsus-ranæ_ (Frogbite,) and _Stratiotes aloides_, (water soldier,) growing in great abundance.

I should however have observed that the fine marble group of Neptune was much injured by the French army, during the time they occupied Potsdam. In short it is really grievous to see the depredations that were committed by that army on the sculpture about Potsdam and Sans-souci, whilst they resided there. The soldiers for amusement were in the habit of firing musket balls at the different groups and statues.

August 30th. Left Potsdam at eight o'clock in the morning, for the _Pfauen Insel_, or Peacock Island, where I had appointed to meet Mr. Cuming at nine o'clock. We had to cross a branch of the river Havel to get to the island, which contains a collection of plants and animals somewhat resembling the Zoological Gardens in Regent's Park. I was here more fortunate in finding M. Fintelman at home, than I was at Sans-souci, and having a letter of introduction to him from his uncle, who superintends the royal gardens at Charlottenburg, I found him remarkably attentive, and an intelligent young man. I was here surprised to find the _Robinia pseudacacia_ had attained seven feet in circumference, at four feet from the ground, the branches of which extend over thirty two yards of ground in diameter. I also observed some fine specimens of the oak, which were little inferior to our largest English oaks. The conservatory is an oblong building, about one hundred and twenty feet by forty, and forty two feet high, and consists of several tiers of front sashes, with a span roof, the north side being a dead wall with a gallery for resting in behind it, which commands a full view of the plants underneath.

I was much gratified, by the very flourishing state of the plants, and their remarkable neatness. A very fine collection of the _Palmæ_, is cultivated in this stove or conservatory, some of which have made a rapid progress in their growth. The _Latania borbonica_ measured twenty seven feet in height, spreading over a space of equal dimensions in diameter. I understood that his majesty the king of Prussia frequently breakfasts in the summer season in this conservatory, under the shade of the palm fronds (or leaves). I remarked also the _Pandanus utilis_ twenty three feet high; the _Dracæna Draco_, (Dragon Tree) had likewise grown thirty six feet high; _Pandanus sylvestris_ thirteen feet in height, and eleven feet in diameter across its branches; the _Bambusa arundinacea_, forty feet high; a shoot of this cane, grew seven feet six inches in the course of three weeks; the _Corypha umbraculifera_, a very magnificent specimen. The _Latania borbonica_ is placed in the centre of the conservatory; the tub in which it grows is completely concealed by planting around it various _ferns_, and other low growing plants, which are tastefully arranged, and form a nice little stage round the tub, having a very neat appearance, with the walk round it, which shews the palm to the best advantage. Opposite to this spot is a recess in which is placed a small fountain tastefully decorated by _ferns_ that succeed well in a shady situation. There is likewise in this recess, a very handsome marble screen, richly carved and ornamented. The grounds are very judiciously laid out in various clumps of flowering shrubs and summer flowers, and were at this time in full perfection. One of the finest Hydrangeas that I have seen, was in full bloom, and its large purple-blue flowers were very conspicuous. The grass lawn was in a much better state than any other that I had previously seen in Germany, or even met with during my tour on the continent, and the whole garden ground very neatly kept. The island is said to contain about four hundred English acres. The erections for the different animals and birds are judiciously placed, and consist of handsome structures, arranged from two to three hundred yards or more apart; these apartments were kept remarkably clean and in good order. An extensive collection of beasts and birds are preserved in this establishment. The grounds are considerably varied, and some fine views are to be seen from several parts of it, as well as from the top of some prospect towers. The effect of the river Havel, and surrounding plantations at the opposite sides, adds expressive features to this landscape.

After seeing the various objects most deserving of notice, both in the botanical and zoological departments, we proceeded across the river, to the grounds of Prince Charles, still accompanied by M. Fintelman; they were laid out, principally, in the English style, his royal highness being particularly partial to it.

This spot consists of a great variety of surface, with several beautiful vistas, and is really very tastefully planted, and the grounds formed, and kept in very excellent order. The public road from Berlin to Potsdam passes close by the front of the grounds, and there is a low wall, with an invisible wire fence on the top of it, betwixt the road, where the views of the grounds are seen to most advantage. One side of them extends close to the Havel, where a handsome summer house is erected, which commands a fine prospect of Potsdam, the new bridge, and shipping, and likewise the scenery on the opposite side of the river, which is much varied. Under this building are two colonnades covered with creepers, which have a very pretty effect.

On the one side of a hill nearly opposite to this villa, is a new residence erecting for prince William; the views from it must be very extensive, as it is situated on a commanding spot.

We next proceeded to the magnificent edifice called _Marmorpallast_, or marble palace, which is situated at a very short distance from Potsdam, and close to the margin of the Havel. It is a splendid building, the greater part of which is constructed with marble. The cornice appeared to be about five or six feet deep; it is of white marble, as also is the base above the ground for several feet; the door and window jambs are likewise of the same material. The intervening spaces of the walls are built with red brick. The colonnade at the principal entrance consists of handsome marble columns. The pleasure-ground and gardens attached to it are said to contain two hundred and fifteen German acres of ground, throughout which are dispersed various clumps of trees and shrubs, with extensive walks and rides branching through it in different directions. These grounds are very flat, and have but little variety or picturesque appearance in them. The number of good exotics and New Holland plants is considerable, as well as a very fine collection of healthy orange trees, with some fine specimens of hardy trees growing singly on the grass. I here observed the _Juglans fraxinifolia_ bearing a number of good sized fruit. In the flower garden some good German stocks, then in full bloom. The borders and grass lawn were in a rough state.

We next proceeded to Sans-souci, Mr. Cuming not having previously seen it. I was delighted in having another opportunity of looking round this truly magnificent spot; and being accompanied by Mr. Fintelman, who kindly devoted the entire day in conducting us to the various objects best worth our notice, we proceeded through the grounds attached to Sans-souci palace, and then to Charlottenhoff, the new palace, &c., and were much gratified by the numerous objects of interest we had pointed out to us in the various places that we inspected.

On our return to Potsdam, we went to the top of Breuchensberg, or hill of brewers, where a prospect tower is erected. The view from this spot is really grand in the extreme; we look down upon Potsdam and the numerous palaces that are in its environs. Sans-souci and the new palace are both prominent objects in view from this prospect; but the most pleasing features are the numerous small green islands that are formed by the river Havel, near the bridge at Potsdam; the intricacy and variety of outline of water, and the number of boats and small sailing vessels making their way to Berlin through this place, form a pleasing sight. The evening was now drawing to a close, and little more remained to be seen by daylight. M. Fintelman took his departure for the Island of Peacocks, and Mr. Cuming started in an hour after for Berlin. I was thus again left alone to muse over the different objects that had occupied my attention during the day.

August 31st. Not having previously seen the pine-apple forcing department, I walked out early this morning to Sans-souci, where this fruit is cultivated. I was rather surprised to find a great extent of low houses and pits devoted to the growth of the pine, without observing a single fruit amongst the whole stock that was scarcely worth cutting. There cannot be less than one thousand feet in length of houses and pits adapted to the pine-apple, and these varying from eight to twelve feet in width. The principal range was heated by smoke flues, and the plants plunged in saw-dust, with tan under; which practice is frequently adopted in this country, especially when tan is scarce. The young plants in the pits appeared pretty healthy, but such fruit as was fit for cutting, or advancing to maturity, would bear no comparison to our English produce.

After satisfying myself with what was to be seen in this department, I returned to Potsdam, from whence the diligence to Dresden, my next place of destination, did not start till twelve o'clock. The time I had to spare before my conveyance came up, was employed in inspecting the town, which consists, it is said, of 2000 houses, and 16,000 inhabitants. The streets are in general very clean; one leading from the palace to Sans-souci is inlaid with planks for the wheels of the different vehicles to run on, similar to the Russian manner. I also saw in the vicinity a Russian colony, which was inhabited by natives, sent as a present some years ago by the Emperor to the king of Prussia; they are now becoming pretty numerous, and their colony is extending.

Potsdam is intersected by various small canals, that lead from the Havel, and are very convenient for the conveyance of turf and other materials by water carriage. The greater number of the houses are handsomely built; there was then erecting opposite to the palace a magnificent church. At the other end of this palace is an iron bridge, crossing the Havel; the piers consist of stonework, there are eight arches, one of which is used as a drawbridge for the passing and repassing of boats going this way to Berlin. This town is the principal depot for military, who are exercised daily in great numbers in front of the palace.

At twelve o'clock the diligence arrived, when I took my departure in it for Dresden.

The road leading from Potsdam to the latter town was lined on each side with fine poplar trees, of a considerable size, for several miles of the journey. The soil in this part of the country appeared to be a light sandy loam: the plantations were chiefly composed of the Scotch fir; but close by the road side, in several places between Potsdam and Herzberg, were large quantities of plum trees, loaded with fruit.

We arrived at Herzberg at half-past ten o'clock; but owing to the darkness of the night I was unable to see, or form any opinion of the size of the town or quality of the houses.

September 1st. At three o'clock in the morning we reached another small town, called Elsterwerda, which was said to contain about 900 inhabitants. The next stage we came to was Grossenhayn, where we arrived at half-past five o'clock, a.m. This town is situated in the kingdom of Saxony, and contains nearly 5000 inhabitants. At this stage we were transferred to another diligence.

The country from Grossenhayn to Dresden is much more varied than any I had previously seen in Germany.

The scenery as we approach to Dresden is very picturesque, both as regards distant views and variety of surface: when within a few miles of the town, we meet with a very fine avenue of lime trees, extending for a considerable distance, and then is continued by horse-chesnuts. On descending a hill, a fine prospect of Dresden presents itself to the eye. The soil now appears more of a black colour, and less free from sand, than what I had previously observed. I also saw several beech trees intermixed with the Scotch-fir.

Arrived at Dresden, at nine o'clock a.m. After getting breakfast, I immediately proceeded to the house of Professor Hughes, who was then engaged, but Mrs. Hughes asked Mr. West to accompany me to the principal gardens; this gentleman, a school colleague of Lord Cosmo Russell, and an admirer of plants, very cheerfully accompanied me to several of the gardens in the vicinity of the town. We first proceeded to the Botanic Garden, belonging to the University, which is very limited in extent. I was however much pleased with the fine collection of Cacteæ that are grown in this establishment, as well as a large collection of Cape, and other green house plants. The number of species of hardy perennial plants in this small space of ground is truly astonishing; there is also a great variety of Cape bulbs and _Gramineæ_. The extent of glass is confined to a very long conservatory, stove, and several pits for _Cacteæ_.

Having been introduced by Mr. West to M. Lehman, the superintendant of the garden, he accompanied us to the gardens of Lieut. Weber, situated at a short distance from the town, and considered the most extensive for glass and space, of any about _Dresden_. I should imagine by its appearance there could not be above seven or eight English acres of ground under nursery culture. The collection of plants for sale comprises chiefly _Camellias_, young orange trees, Cape and new Holland plants, many of the scarcer sorts of which I observed had been lately introduced to that establishment, from Mr. Low's nursery at Clapton. A fine specimen of the Uhria speciosa was in great vigour of health. A great variety of dahlias, and dwarf China roses in full flower were in these grounds.