CHAPTER XXXVII

MEMENTO MORI

"I will keep it, As they keep deaths' heads in rings, To cry _memento_ to me."

The study of the various forms of personal ornament by means of which the memory of the dead or of death itself has been preserved by the living is one which offers a wide field for investigation. The Egyptians enforced the precept "_Memento Mori_" by introducing at their banquets a small coffin containing the image of a corpse which, according to Herodotus, was shown to each guest. In classical times skeletons were rarely represented, though one is sculptured on a tomb at Pompeii.

The warning "_Memento Mori_" manifested itself in divers fashions in the Middle Ages, the most conspicuous being the famous "Dance of Death," which made its début in the fourteenth century, and was figured by Holbein in the sixteenth. Testimony of the desire of all to keep the warning constantly before the mind is borne by personal ornaments of various kinds displaying emblems of mortality. In order to arrive at the meaning of these crude emblems so often applied to objects of jewellery, regard should be paid to the feelings of the times that gave them birth.

During the latter period of the Middle Ages the grim and ascetic contemplation of death caused the artists of that period to represent it as the devil, the father of sin, horned and cloven-hoofed, carrying off the sinful souls and forcing them into the mouth of hell. But when during the fifteenth century "printing excited men's imaginations, when the first discovery of the ancient classics roused their emulation and stimulated their unrest, when the Renaissance in art increased their eagerness to express their thoughts and multiplied their method of expression,"[193] and their conscience was turned to the latter end and the unseen world, then at length did death appear, no longer as the father of sin, but altered into a familiar and human personification.

[193] Cook (T. A.), _The history of Rouen_, p. 293.

Side by side with the strange vigour and extraordinary joy in life that marked the period, there existed a great contempt for the value of life and a gross familiarity with death. It was Death himself, according to the imagination of the sixteenth century, who, always at hand, clutched men of every age and condition by the sleeve and hurried them all unwillingly away.

The emblems of death were always presented in close touch with the living. The forms they took--the skeleton, or simply the skull, or Death's head, with cross-bones--were rendered in the sixteenth century by both painter and sculptor; but it was reserved for the goldsmith--the sculptor and painter in one--to represent them on jewellery through the medium of the precious metals enriched with gems and coloured enamels. They figured on every kind of ornament. Brooches with enamelled skulls were fastened as enseignes upon the hat; golden jewels like funereal objects in shape of coffins holding enamelled skeletons hung from the neck; rosary beads, pomanders and watches in the form of human skulls were attached to the waist; and rings bearing Death's heads and other emblems were worn upon the fingers.

A great impetus was given to the use of such articles of adornment by Diana of Poitiers when she became mistress of Henry II of France. She was then a widow in mourning; and the complaisant Court not only adopted her black and white as the fashionable colour, but covered their personal ornaments with emblems of death.

Jewels of this description, it is clear, were not necessarily carried in remembrance of any special individual. With their legend "Memento Mori" they were simply reminders of Death in the abstract. As such they characterised exactly the temper of the time, and were quite commonly worn by the upper and middle classes, especially by those who affected a respectable gravity. At the time of which we now speak the personal badge or _devise_, an obscure expression of some particular conceit of its wearer, was at the height of fashion. In its elaboration the various emblems of death were largely put under contribution, their choice for the purpose being the outcome of the special disposition of those who adopted them. Perhaps the most notable instance of the representation of a badge of this kind is in Holbein's famous "Ambassadors," in the National Gallery. Here Jean de Dinteville, who stands on the left of the picture, wears a circular jewel formed of a white enamelled skull in a gold mount, pinned as an enseigne to the lower rim of his small black bonnet.

Amongst sundry ornaments bearing mortuary devices, there is a good example at South Kensington--a _Memento Mori_ charm of enamelled gold in the form of a coffin containing a minutely articulated skeleton. It is English work of the Elizabethan period, and was found at Tor Abbey, Devonshire (Pl. XLIV, 16).

No article of decoration has been more extensively used as a "Memento Mori" or for memorial purposes than the finger ring. The association of the ring is largely with affairs of the heart, and lovers are united with it. And since the form itself is emblematic of eternity, so by this same token of affection has the memory of departed friends been kept green.

The sepulchral emblems referred to were not made use of for mediæval ornaments. But in the sixteenth century they were very frequent, especially on rings. One of the most remarkable specimens of the wonderful mastery over technical difficulties which stamps the goldsmith's work of this time is a "Memento Mori" ring of German work in the Waddesdon Bequest. Its bezel or top is in the form of a book, decorated at each corner with a diamond, emerald, sapphire, and ruby, with snakes and toads between them. In the centre is a death's head. The lid on opening discloses a recumbent figure with skull and hour-glass. On the shoulders of the ring, supporting the bezel, are figures of Adam and Eve representing The Fall and Expulsion from Eden. All the figures are enamelled in high relief, and though merely a fraction of an inch in size, are executed with extraordinary fidelity. A ring described as having belonged to Mary Stuart is in the possession of the Earl of Ilchester. Its bezel, composed of a large ruby cut in the form of a death's head and set with diamond eyes, is supported underneath by cross-bones in enamel. Woeiriot's beautiful collection of designs for rings, of the year 1561, contains a ring of this kind surmounted with a skull and cross-bones; and Gilles Légaré's _Recueil_ of a century later has an engraving of similar pattern (Pl. XL).

English rings of the sixteenth century have a death's head carved in intaglio on carnelian, or sunk in the metal of the ring and sometimes filled with enamel. Around is the motto "Memento Mori," and similar expressions in Latin or in English (Pl. XXXVI, 12). A certain Agnes Hals whose will is dated 1554 bequeathed to her niece "my rynge of gold with the wepinge eie," and to her son "my rynge with the dead manes head."

From the commencement of the seventeenth century Memento Mori rings begin to be worn also as memorials of the departed, and bequests of money were frequently made for their purchase. The decoration of many of the rings of this period is very curious. On some the death's head in its natural shape is beautifully formed in enamel, has small diamond eyes, and is supported on each side by skeletons bent along the hoop of the ring. The bezel of others is of crystal in the shape of a coffin, the lid of which on being removed discloses a skeleton. Widows on the death of their husbands sometimes converted their wedding rings into memorial rings. This was done by engraving outside an elongated skeleton, the bones of which were brought into prominence by a background of black enamel.

Inside the memorial rings of the time was often a motto or posy, appropriate for the purpose, sometimes rhyming:--

Prepared be To follow me;

or

I restless live, yet hope to see That day of Christ, and then see thee.

Rings of this kind, commonly known as mourning rings, were frequently given, together with gloves and hat-bands, to those who attended at funerals. They were inscribed, in addition to a posy, with the initials of the deceased and the date. Evelyn at his son's funeral in 1658 distributed a number of rings with the motto "Dominus abstulit." At Pepys' funeral upwards of a hundred and thirty rings were given to friends and relatives.

Mention must be made, amongst other memorial jewellery, of the various objects worn in memory of Charles I. Most of these are finger rings containing a portrait of the ill-fated monarch, which were made and worn by Royalists after his execution. Some are so contrived that the portrait can only be discovered by opening a lid formed of a table diamond. They were doubtless used by those for whom devotion of the kind was dangerous. Other jewels worn in memory of the Royal Martyr were heart-shaped lockets, inscribed and decorated in a suitably funereal manner with skulls, cross-bones, and like emblems.

An important group of ornaments, dating from the time of Charles II to that of Queen Anne, are those in the form of small memorial brooches, lockets, bracelet clasps, buttons, and slides with loops at the back for attachment to a velvet band. They are of considerable interest in that they represent almost the only surviving examples of English jewellery of the time. The Franks Bequest in the British Museum contains several specimens. They usually have letters in a fine filigree of gold entwined in a monogram, laid on a ground of crimson silk, and covered with a thick crystal set in gold. The gold filigree, which is of extraordinary delicacy, is often laid on braids of hair arranged in various designs, and accompanied by the skull and cross-bones. The crystal covering is sometimes cut in table form, but is more often rose-cut. The locket surrounded with pearls shown on Plate XLIV has on its surface no less than a hundred facets.

Memorial rings of the same period have bezels with similar designs beneath a rose diamond or faceted crystal. Their hoops are mostly enamelled black on the shoulders. In the second quarter of the eighteenth century the mortuary emblems of skull and cross-bones in general disappear. The hoop of the ring is shaped in the form of a scroll or ribbon, and set with a small diamond, a coloured stone, or usually a white crystal. Around the hoop is inscribed in enamel the name and age of the deceased, and date of death. Black enamel was used for those who had been married; while white was employed for the unmarried--just as it was the practice at the funeral of an unmarried man or woman for the mourners and attendants to be clothed in white.

Mourning jewellery was extremely popular in England towards the end of the eighteenth and in the early part of the nineteenth century. The variety of design in objects of the kind then in use, and the ingenuity displayed in their production, may well be judged from a collection numbering upwards of one hundred and fifty specimens in the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Some mementoes of the deceased are simply miniature portraits, as well as cameos and silhouettes, the miniature sometimes taking the form of a single eye set round with pearls or diamonds. But in most cases it appears to have been the custom to wear in lockets, brooches, and rings microscopic devices--works of infinite patience and skill--wrought in hair, with initials and other designs cunningly worked in seed pearls. There were also, sometimes, paintings in _grisaille_ (Pl. XLVII, 2, 3). These often represented a lady in mourning garb weeping over a funeral urn, in the style of the ornament worn by Mr. Wemmick, the attorney's clerk in _Great Expectations_, of whom Dickens gives the following inimitable description: "I judged him to be a bachelor from the frayed condition of his linen, and he appeared to have sustained a good many bereavements; for he wore at least four mourning rings, besides a brooch representing a lady and a weeping willow at a tomb with an urn on it. I noticed, too, that several rings and seals hung at his watch chain, as if he were quite laden with remembrances of departed friends." Further on Mr. Wemmick himself describes his personal jewellery, and concludes by remarking: "I always take 'em. They're curiosities. And they're property. They may not be worth much, but, after all, they're property and portable.... My guiding-star always is, Get hold of portable property."

The painted brooches backed with hair and set round with pearls form, as a matter of fact, very pretty jewels, in spite of the sombreness of their subject and the trivial sentimentality of their mottoes, which run in this vein: "Whose hair I wear--I loved most dear."

Mourning jewellery was usually set with pearls, garnets, or more often jet. The last, until a short while ago, was in universal favour, and was fashioned into all sorts of ornaments. It fortunately now meets with but little demand. The same applies to hair jewellery, of human hair woven in many intricate plaitings into brooches, rings, bracelets, and chains. The brooches of about the "forties" have a broad border inscribed with the word "Memory," etc., in Gothic letters on black enamel, and in the centre a panel of plaited hair. The custom of wearing ornaments composed of such sombre and unpleasing material has now to all intents and purposes ceased, though it is carried on to a certain extent in France, where _ouvrages en cheveux_ in the form of bracelets and lockets are still worn as _précieux souvenirs de famille_.

After the middle of the nineteenth century the use of mourning rings and other memorial jewellery began to die out. The goddess Fashion, who throughout all ages has waged war on the productions of the goldsmith, has laid a heavier hand on these than on any other forms of personal ornament--a circumstance which accounts for the survival at the present day of a comparatively small proportion of the enormous quantity of objects of this description that must formerly have been produced. Most families from time to time have consigned to the melting-pot accumulations of these memorials of their predecessors; and those who have been long in the jeweller's business confess to the hundreds of such relics that they have broken up. It is to be hoped that the present-day revival may lead to the preservation of what remain of these quaint mementoes of our frail mortality.

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INDEX

[.A][=a]h-[h.]etep, 3, 5 À Becket, Thomas. _See_ Thomas à Becket Aberford (Yorks), 72 Abingdon brooch, 60 Acorn-shaped pendants, Phoenician, 10 Acorn-shaped pendants, worn by Henry VIII, 206 Acton, John, 302, 304 _Acus_, xli, xlii, 60, 127 Adalbert of Saxony, 137 Adams (potter), 315 Adriatic, 83 " jewellery, 246, 347 Ægean, 12 Ægides, 6 _Aetites_, 122 Aglets, 268-9 _Agnus Dei_, 72, 122 Agnolo, Luca, 185 _Agrafes_, 140 Aigrettes, Hungarian, 198 " jewelled, 230, 231 " " sockets for, 230 " 17 cent., 230, 231, 281, 290, 291, 303 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 316, 317 _Aigulets_, 268 Aix-la-Chapelle, Treasury, 118, 139 Albacete, 9 Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 194 " VI, Duke of Bavaria, 248 Albini, D. M., 309 Alciatus, A., 223 Aldegrever, H., 185, 193, 194, 250, 259 _Alençon, Pierre d'_, 343, 357 Alexandria, 93 Alfonso I, Duke of Ferrara, 158 " II, Duke of Ferrara, 292 Alfred the Great, 68, 69, 71 " Jewel, 68, 69 Algeria, Celtic brooch in, 76 Algerian women, head-ornaments of, 9 Alhstan, Bishop of Sherborne, 71 Alicante, 9 Allori, Alessandro, 350 Altdorfer, A., 189 Altoetting (Bavaria), 88 Amadas, Robert, 208 Ambassadors, jewellery given to, Eng., 17 cent., 306 Amber in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 " in ancient Irish jewellery, 42 " in German peasant jewellery, 346 " in early Italian jewellery, 24 " in prehistoric jewellery, 39 " in Roman jewellery, 30 " in Romano-British jewellery, 45 Ambergris, 125 n. Amboise, Cardinal d', 199 Amethystine quartz, beads of, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 Amethysts, 19 cent., 328, 329 Amman, Jost, 270 _Amourette_, 146 Amphoræ, 8, 10 Amphora-shaped ornaments, Greek, 16 Amsterdam, Charles I's jewellery sent over to, 305 Amulets, Egyptian, 2 " Etruscan, 25 " medl., 103, 122, 132 " in medl. rings, 151 " Roman, 29, 32 " Romano-British, 47 _Ananizapta_, 152 Androuet Ducerceau, J., 201, 219, 241, 246, 265, 269 Angell, John, 208 Angles, 56 Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 51, 56-74 Ankles, rings for, 6 Ann Boleyn, Q. of England, 212 Anne of Austria, wife of Albert V, Duke of Bavaria, 195 " of Bohemia, Q. of England, 141 " of Denmark, Q. of England, 268, 301 Annunciation, on medl. morses, 139 " on Renaiss. pendants, 244-5 Anselm, 92 Anthony, Dericke, 220 Antioch, sack of, 33 Antonio di Girolamo, 175 Antwerp, corporation of goldsmiths, 155 " engravers of designs for jewellery, 196 " Hans of. _See_ Hans. " Museum, 227 n. " port of, 16 cent., 167 _Annulus vertuosus_, 147 Aphrodite, 28 Arabella Stuart, 299 Arabs in Spain and Sicily, 84 Ardagh chalice, 66 Ark on Elizabethan jewellery, 255, 256 Armada jewels, 217, 255 Armagnacs, badge of, 110 Armento, 16 _Armillæ_, ancient British, 41 " Roman, 30 Armlet, Hunsdon, 218 Armlets, xliv " ancient Irish, 42 " medl., 157-8 " Roman, 30 " Romano-British, 47 Arphe, Juan de, 202 Arrow heads, prehistoric, as charms, in Etruscan jewellery, 25 " " " medl. jewellery, 122 _Art Nouveau_, 337, 338 Arundel, Eleanor, Countess of, 113 Ashbee, C. R., 339 Ashmole, Elias, 238 Ashmolean Museum. _See_ Oxford Asia Minor, 8, 14 Assyria, 7, 8 Assyrian art, 12 Athelney, Isle of, 68 Athene, 16 Athens, National Museum, 11 Attavante, M., 175 Augsburg, goldsmiths, 192 " jewellery made at, 202, 203, 205 " in 16 cent., 180, 189, 198, 210 Augustine, St., 65, 66 Augustus, Emperor, cameo of, 103 " II, Elector of Saxony, 310, 311 _Aulmonière_, 165 Autun, Gallo-Roman enamelled jewellery found at, 46 Auvergne, peasant jewellery, 342-3

Babelon, E. C. F, 266 Bacchus, 24 Backwell, Edward, 305 Bacon, Sir F., 100 Bactria, 51 Baden, Margraves of, 250, 261 Badges, 116, 365 " for hats, medl., 107-12 " English, 16-17 cent., 257 " pendent, medl. 110 " " Spanish, 17 cent., 204 Bags, at girdles, Anglo-Saxon, 63 _Bague_, 258 _Bagues à trois grains_, 73 Bain, P., 282 Baldrick, 93, 164 Baldung, Hans. _See_ Grien Baldwin, K. of Jerusalem, 119 Baltic, amber from, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 58 Balzac, H. de, 331 _Bandeau_, French, 19 cent., 329 " Italian, 15 cent., 107 Bannatyne Club, 220 Bapst, G., 335 Barbarian tribes, migrations of, 49 Barbaric jewellery of Europe, 49-55 Barbor jewel, 218, 254 " William, 254 Barcelona, goldsmiths of, 202, 204 Barclay, A., 236 Baroncelli, Pierantonio, Maria, wife of, 114, 286 Barnfield, R., 265 Barrows, or graves, Anglo-Saxon, 57 Bars of girdles, medl., 162 n. Basalt, 5 Basil, xlv Basil the Macedonian, Emperor, 34 Basle, Historical Museum, 192 _Basse-taille_ enamel. _See_ Enamel Bast, 6 Batrachites, 151 Battersea enamel, 320 Bauer, Hermann, 339 Baumann, D., 309 Bavaria, Dukes of, 194, 248 Bavarian National Museum. _See_ Munich _Baudrier_, 164 Beaded work, 19 cent., 327 Beads, Anglo-Saxon, 58 " or balls of gold, on Anglo-Saxon rings, 73 " ancient British, 40 " " Irish, 42 " Egyptian, 4-6 " filigree, for perfumes, 265 " glass, Romano-British, 45 " jet, Romano-British, 47 " Phoenician, 10 " Roman, 29 " rosary, 124-5 Beatrice D'Este, Duchess of Milan, 172 _Beams_, of gypcières, 165 Beaumont and Fletcher (quoted), 265 Bede, The Venerable, 67 Bees, gold, jewelled, 53 Belgium, peasant jewellery, 345-6 Belisarius, 33 Bells, hung from medl. girdles, 164 " " Renaiss. pendants, 250 Belts, xlv, xlvi " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 159-65 " " resemblence to fillets, 105 " military, medl., 163-4 Bentzen, J., 284 Berengaria, of Navarre, Q. of England, xliii, 128 Beresford-Hope cross, 36 Berghem, Louis de, 209, 277 Berkeley Castle, 73, 218, 253, 265, 266 " Elizabeth, Lady, dau. of Lord Hunsdon, 218 " family, 274 " heirlooms, 218 " Thomas, Lord, 116 Berlin, Crown Treasury, 251 " iron jewellery made in, 330 " Museums, 3, 9, 139 " " pictures in, 90, 106, 168, 261 Bernal, Ralph, 133 Berne, 210 " Museum, 64 Bernhard III, Margrave of Baden, 261 Bettystown, Co. Louth, 78 _Betnüsse_, 125 Beuvray, Mont, near Autun, 46 Bezel, xlv Bezoar stone, 122 Bibracte, 46 n. _Bijouterie_, 277 "Billy and Charley," 360 Bilston enamel, 320 Bindesböll, T., 339 Birckenhultz, P., 231, 234, 281 Birds on Teutonic jewellery, 57, 58 " " Renaiss. pendants, 249 Birmingham, steelwork, 315, 319 _Bisamapfel_, 275 n. Black Sea, 14 Blondus. _See_ Le Blon. Boccardi, Giovanni di Guiliano, 175 Bodkins (hair-pins), Renaiss., 232, 233 Bodleian Library. _See_ Oxford. Boehmer, 318 Boethius, 100 "Boglars," 198 Bohemia, medl. pendants, 121 " Renaiss. jewellery, 188 _Boîte à portrait_, 320 Bollin, M., 339 Bologna, Church of S. Maria della Misericordia, 170 " Picture Gallery, 170 Bömmel, W. H., 309 Bonny, Louis, 338 Books, pendent to girdle, 272-4 Bordier, P., 304 Bordone, Paris, 263 Borghese, Marie Pauline, Princess, 329 Borgia, Cæsar, 100 Bossange, 318 Bossington (near Stockbridge), 73 Bosworth Jewel, 219 Bothwell, Earl of, 221 Botticelli, Sandro, 169 Boucheron, Messrs., 340 Boulton and Watt, 315 Bourchier, Lord, 110 Bouquet, D., 297 Bouquets, jewelled, 17 cent., 281, 290 " " on the breast, 18 cent., 318 _Bouquets d'orfévrerie_, 295 Bourdon, Pierre, 309 Bourguet, Jean, 309, 320 Bow, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 204, 294 " " " " 18 cent., 308, 318 Bow-shaped brooches, Romano-British, 46 Bowles, Thomas, 310 Boyvin, René, 201, 265 Bracelets, xliv " Byzantine, 37 " clasps, memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368 " Egyptian, 6 " Etruscan, 25 " Greek, 10 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " ancient Irish, 42 " medl., 157-8 " Renaiss., 264-7 " " designs for, 265, 269 " Roman, 30 " Romano-British, 47 " 17 cent., 294 " 18 cent., 309, 313, 319, 320 " 19 cent., 329 _Brachiale_, 30 _Bracteæ_, Greek, 19 Bracteate coins, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 Bracteates, gold, 13 Brandenburg, Fred. William, Elector of, 238 Brantôme, 181, 200 "Bravery," 299 Braybrooke collection of rings, 264 Brazil diamonds, 351 Breast ornaments, medl., 135, etc. " 17 cent., 204, 294 " 18 cent., 308, 318 Bremen, Kunsthalle, 190 "Brethren," "The Three." _See_ "Brothers" Briceau, 309 _Briolettes_, 291, 317, 343 Bristol diamond, 259, 357 Britain, invasion of, by Teutonic races, 56 " Roman occupation of, 44 British Isles, prehistoric jewellery, 39 British Museum. _See_ London Britons, 39 _Broche_, 127 Broighter, near Limavady, 43 Bromsgrove Church, 154 Bronze Age, 39 " ornaments, British, 39, 41, 45 Bronzino, Angelo, 233 Brooches, xl-xliv " Anglo-Saxon, xlii, xliii, 50, 59-62, 70 " Byzantine, 36, 37, 70 " Celtic, xlii-xliv, 74-9, 131 " circular, xlii, xliv " cruciform, xlii, 61 " disc-shaped, xlii, xliii " Flemish-Burgundian, 15 cent., 143-6 " Greek, 18, 19 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " hat, 108. _See also_ Enseignes " by Holbein, 212 " Italian, 15 cent., 174 " Luckenbooth, 133-4, 165 " medl., 121, 127, 144 " " English, 93, 94 " " inscriptions on, 128-30 " " pectorals, 135-46 " memorial, English, 17-18 cent., 368 " penannular, xlii, xliii, 74-9 " radiated, 63 " Renaiss., 267 " ring-brooch, xlii, xliv, xlv, 62, 127-34 " Romano-British, 45-7 " safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41 " Scandinavian, 62 " Scottish, 131-4 " on sleeves, 267 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 309, 312 " _See also_ Fibulæ Brosamer, Hans, 193, 198, 205, 250 "Brothers," "The Three Brothers," 209, 210, 300 Brueghel, Jan, 287 Bruges, 89, 114, 277 " goldsmith's shop in, 15 cent., 155 " port of, 15 cent., 167 Brunswick, Dorothea, Elizabeth, and Hedwig, Princesses of, 245 Brussels, Musée du Cinquantenaire, 106, 271 " Alexander of, 208 Bruyn, Abraham de. _See_ De Bruyn " Bartholomäus, 189 Bry, Theodor de, 195, 196, 219 Brythons, 39 Bucharest, Museum of Antiquities, 52 Buckingham, George Villiers, Duke of, 210, 230, 235, 300 Buckle, xlv, xlvi " design for, by Aldegrever, 194 " " " " de Bry, 196 " " " " Dürer, 191 " -plate, xlvi, 159, 160 Buckles, Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 159-60 " pinchbeck, 316 " shoe, 18 cent., 321 " steel, 315 " stock, 18 cent., 322 " Teutonic, 64 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312, 322 Buda-Pesth, National Museum, 112, 157, 198 Bugles, 10, 319 Bull, H. de. _See_ De Bull _Bullæ_, Etruscan, 24, 25 " Roman, 29 Bulliot, J. G., 46 n. Buonaparte, Caroline, Q. of Naples, 329 Burgh, Hebert de, 151 Burgkmair, H., 189 Burgundian Court, luxury of, 88-90 Burgundians (Gothic tribe), 50 Burgundy, Dukes of, 88-9, 114, 143 Bussy d'Amboise, 123 n. "Butterflies," 316 Buttons, jet, Romano-British, 47 " memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368 " Renaiss., 267-8 " steel, 315 " 18 cent., 319, 320 Byron, Lord, 331 Byzantine, cloisonné enamel, 66 " influence on medl. jewellery, 83-5, 157 " jewellery, 33-8 Byzantium, 33

C., A., 284 Cabalistic inscriptions on medl. rings, 152 Cabochon stones, 88, 96, 97 Cadboll brooches, 77 Cære, 25 Caillard, J., 282 _Caillou d' Alençon_, 343 " _du Rhin_, 357 Cairngorms, 133 Cairo, Museum, 3, 5 Callot, J., 282 Cambridge, Fitzwilliam Museum, 225 " King's College, 115 Camden, W., 94 Cameos, antique, in medl. jewellery, 138 " in bracelets, Renaiss., 264, 266 " in bracelets, 18 cent., 320 " Elizabethan, 217-18 " medl. use of antique, 101-4 " in mourning jewellery, 369 " Renaiss., 226 " " enseignes, 227-8 " " pendants, 245-6 " Roman, 30 " 19 cent., 326-31 Campbells of Glenlyon, 132 Canning, Lord, 249 Canosa, 70 Canterbury Cathedral, 108 n., 109 " " Chapel of St. Thomas à Becket, 140 _Canterbury Tales_, 161, etc. Cappello, Bianca, 233, 350 _Caracts_, 132 Caract rings, 152 Caradosso, 168, 227 Caravel, or carvel, 246 Carberry Hill, 221 _Carcan_, 317 _Carcanets_, 114 " Renaiss., 239 Carlyle, T., 318 Carmichael, Sir T. D. Gibson, 224 Caroto, G., 172 Carrand Collection. _See_ Florence, Museo Nazionale Carteron, S., 205 Cassel Gallery, 296 _Cassolette_, 275 n. Castellani, 22, 346, 359 " Alessandro, 333, 334 " Augusto, 333, 334 " Fortunato Pio, 333, 334 " brooch, 70 Cast-iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330-1 Catherine Parr, Q. of England, 252 Caucasus, 50 Cavalcant, John, 208 _Ceinture_, 105, 159 " _ferrée_, 161 _Ceinturier_, 270 Cellini, B., 21, 22, 169, 171, 179, 183-6, 192, 196, 197, 199, 201, 202, 208, 222, 227, 228, 241, 273, 278, 351 Celtic brooch, 74, 75-9, 131 " jewellery, 11, 39 " Period (late), 39, 43 Celts, 40 _Cercles_, 93, 105 "Cerro de los Santos," 9 Cervetri, 25 Cesarini, Gabriele, 228 Chains, ancient Irish, 43 " Egyptian, 5 " Phoenician, 9 " neck, 19 cent., 331 Chains, worn round the neck. _See also_ Necklaces and Neck-chains Chalke, Agnes, 106 Chamberlain, John, 299 Chamillart, Mdme de, 314, 320 _Chansons_, 152 Chantilly, 168, 185 Chape of girdle, xlvi, 160, 271 _Chapeau montabyn (montauban)_, 224, 231 _Chapelet_, 125 _Chapeletz_, 93, 105 _Chaperon_, 156, 229 Chaplets, medl., 105 Chardin, Sir John, 278, 305 Charity, figure of, on Renaiss. pendants, 244 Charlemagne, 55, 65, 83, 84, 118 Charles I, K. of England, 210, 219, 230, 288, 300, 304, 305, 354 " I, K. of England, earrings of, 235, 354 " I, K. of England, memorial jewellery of, 367 " II, K. of England, 292, 305 " V, K. of France, 88, 199 " " " cameo of, 103, 130 " VIII, K. of France, 199 " IX " " 199, 200 " the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 107, 209, 231 " the Great, Emperor of the West. _See_ Charlemagne Charlotte, Q. of England, 313, 317 Charms, 99-104, 111-120 Chartres, Treasury of, 103 Châteaubriand, Countess of, 181 Chatelaines, xlvii " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 161 " pinchbeck, 316 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312, 313, 322, 323 _Chaton_, xlv Chaucer, 93, 94, 109, 129, 130 n., 164 Chelsea, ring found at, 73 Chepstow, Monmouthshire, 46 Chéron, 314 Chiflet, J. J., 53 Child, Sir Francis, 305, 306 Child's Bank, 306 Childeric I, K. of the Franks, 51, 52, 53 " " ring of, 63 Chlotaire II, K. of the Franks, 59 Christian V, K. of Denmark, 238 Christianity, introduction of, change in jewellery owing to, 65, 66 " introduction of into Ireland, 75 Christie's Auction Rooms, 247, 256 Christina, Q. of Sweden, 284 Christopher, St., 142 Christus, Petrus, 155, 222, 263 Ciampoli, Carlo, 309, 317 _Cingulum_, 163 Circlets, xxxix " medl., 106 Clanricarde, Marquess of, 249 Clarendon brooch, 78 Clasps, xl " of girdle, xlv, xlvii " " medl., 160, 163 " of mantle, medl., 140, 141 " 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 310, 312 Clifford, Lord, 354 Cloth of Gold, Field of, 207, 237 Cloisonné enamel. _See_ Enamel " inlay, 3, 35, 50, 56 Coats-of-arms on rings, 31, 153 Cobra snake, 2 Coello, A. S., 294 Coiffure, Phoenician, 9 " _See also_ Head-ornaments Coins in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " in Byzantine jewellery, 36 " in Roman jewellery, 30, 32 Colbert, J. B., 282 Collar, gold, ancient Irish, 43 " of Order of Golden Fleece, 90 " of Lord Mayor of London, 117 " SS collar, 116-17 Collars, Egyptian, 5 " medl., 113-117 " _See also_ Necklaces Collaert, H., 194, 196, 197, 234, 247 _Collet_, xlv _Collier_ of Marie Antoinette, 318 Cologne Cathedral, 111, 145 Cologne, Episcopal museum, 145 " Wallraf-Richartz museum, 145 Columban, 66 Combs, Empire, 19 cent., 328 " jewelled, medl., 107 " 19 cent., 329 Comines, Philip de, 109, 110 Commonwealth, England, 305 Compostella, 109 " shrine of St. James, 91 Conques, 102, 137 " Treasury, 112, 137 Consolavera, J. B. de, 208 Constantine, 33, 226 Constantinople, 33, 34, 49 " foundation of, 33 " sack of, 38 Coral, in Dutch peasant jewellery, 345 " medl. use of, 123 " 19 cent., 328 Corbeil, Our Lady of, 137 Corbizi, Litti di Filippo, 175 Cornaro, Catarina, 264 _Cornette_, 107 Cornish diamonds, 357 Coronals, Italy, 15 cent., 169 " medl., 106 " round hat, 224 Coronets, 106 n. " medl., 106 " 19 cent., 328 Corsage, jewelled, 308 _Cosse de pois_ ornament, 281, 293, 297 Costantini, G. B., 284 _Côtehardi_, 267 _Coulant_, 342, 345 Counterfeit, 355 " stones sold to Henry VIII, 208 _Courroye_, 270 Coventry, St. Mary's Hall, 115 " ring, 150 Cramp, rings worn against, 152 Cranach, Lucas, 189, 238, 250, 259, 261, 264 Crapaudine, 151 Crete, 8 Crimea, 9, 12, 14, 50 Crivelli, Carlo, 167 " Lucrezia, 172 Cromwell, Oliver, 293, 294, 305 " Thomas, 208, 213 Crosby, Sir John, 115 Cross, pendent, Byzantine, 36 " " medl., 118 " " peasant, 342 " " Renaiss., 242-3 " the True, relics of, 118 " Visigothic (Guarrazar), 54 _Crotalia_, 28 Crown, Alfred Jewel, as ornament of a, 69 " of Thorns, relic of, 118, 119 Crowns, xxxix, 106 " Byzantine, 35 " Greek, 17 " Mycenæan, 11 " Scandinavian peasant, 346 " Visigothic, 53, 54 Croy, Celtic brooch from, 77 Crusaders, 34 Crusades, influence on jewellery, 101 " jewellery brought back from, 84, 93 Cryspyn, John, 208 Crystal, 313, 342, 343, 347, 356, 357 " of Lothair, 139 _Cuir bouilli_, 97 Cunynghame, H. H., 35, 86, 339 Cupreous glaze, 2 Cuthbert, St., 68 Cyprus, 8, 10, 12, 21

D., A., 285 Dagobert, K. of the Franks, 155, 222 Dalton, O. M., 34 n, 51 n. Dance of Death, 363 Danes, invasion of, 68 Danube, Irish missionaries on, 67 " valley, enamel-work, 198 Dark Ages, 51 Darnley, Henry, 217 " jewel, 217, 257 Dartrey, Earl of, 288 Dashûr, 5 Dauffe, 319 Dauphin, badge of, 110 Davenport, C. J. H. (quoted), 71 David, Gerard, 140, 155, 263 " J. L., 326, 329 Davies, G. S. (quoted), 351, 352 Davillier, Baron C., 202, 249 Davy, William, 208 Dawson, Nelson, 339 Death's head, 364-7 De Boot, A., 100 Debruge-Duménil collection, 130, 245 De Bruyn, Abraham, 197 De Bull, H., 284 Defontaine, J., 282 De Heem, Jan, 287 De Heere, Lucas, 252, 352 De la Quewellerie. _See_ La Quewellerie Delaune, Etienne, 197, 201, 272 De Leeuw, John, 155 _Demi-ceint_, or _demysent_, 164 Desborough (Northants), 74 _Devant de corsage_, 318 Devices, 223 " on Elizabethan jewellery, 216-7 " Renaiss., sewn to garments, 268 _Devise_, 223, 365 _Dextrocherium_, 30 Diadems, xxxix " Byzantine, 34 " Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 23 " Greek, 16, 17 " medl., 106 " " English, 93 " Phoenician, 9 " Roman, 28 " 19 cent., 328 _Diamant d' Alençon_, 343 Diamond, 276-9 " of Charles the Bold, 209 " earrings of Marie Antoinette, 317 " necklace of Marie Antoinette, 318 Diamonds, the brilliant, 279 " Bristol, 235, 259 and n. " cutting of, 230, 277-9 " false, 235, 313, 314, 357 " in pictures, 351 " the "point," 277, 278 " pointed, in rings, 260 " in Renaiss. jewellery, 179 " in rings, 17 cent., 296 " rose cut, 282, 310 " " in Flemish peasant jewellery, 345 " "roses," 278-9 " "table," 278-9 " _taille en seize_, 279 " use of, in early jewellery, 277 " in 18 cent. jewellery, 308, 319 Dickens, Charles (quoted), 369 Dietrich, 339 _Dinanderie_, 112 n. Dinglinger, George Friedrich, 310 " Johann Melchior, 310 " " " (junior), 311 Dinteville, Jean de, 365 Dionysius of Halicarnassus, 20 Dionysos, 24 Diptychs, pendent, medl., 119-20 Directory, 325-6 Discs of gold. _See_ Plates of gold Dog (Talbot), on Renaiss. pendants, 249 "Dombild," 145 Dorchester House. _See_ London Douce, Francis, 53, 264 Douglas, Lady Margaret, 217 Douffet, Gerard, 296 Dove, symbol of Holy Ghost, 249 " in peasant jewellery, 343 Dowgate Hill brooch, 69 Dragon, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249 Drake, Sir Francis, 253, 266, 354 " Sir F. Fuller-Eliott, 218, 230 n., 253 " jewels, 218, 230 n., 353 Drawings for jewellery by Barcelona goldsmiths, 202 Drawings for jewellery by Sir F. Child, 306 " " by Dürer, 190 " " by Holbein, 210-213 " " by Lulls, 302 " " by Mielich, 195 " " by the Santini family, 308 Drury Fortnum. _See_ Fortnum Dresden, Picture Gallery, 261 " Grüne Gewölbe, 251, 311 Dress, ornaments sewn on, ancient Irish, 43 " " " Renaiss., 268 Dress-fasteners, prehistoric, xliii " " ancient British, 41 Dressche, Reinecke van, 139 Du Barry, Madame, 317 Du Bellay, G., 207 Dublin, Irish National Museum, 42, 44, 77, 78 " National Gallery of Ireland, 250 " Royal Irish Academy, 42, 78 " Trinity College, 78 Dubois, Paul, 339 Ducerceau. _See_ Androuet Ducerceau Duflos, August, 312, 317 Du Fresnoy, C. A., 353 Dunstan, St., 67 Dürer, A., 185, 187, 190, 191, 250 Du Suau de la Croix, Comte, 338 Duvet, Jean, 200

"Eagle Fibula," 135 Eagle stones, 122 Eanred, 72 Earle, J., 69 Ear-picks, Renaiss., 250-1 Earrings, xxxix, xl " Anglo Saxon, 58 " ancient British, 40 " Byzantine, 35, 37 " " in Middle Ages, 112 " Egyptian, 4 " English, 16-17 cent., 234-5 " Etruscan, 23 " Frankish, 58 " Greek, 15, 16 " medl., 112, 113 " " English, 92 " worn by men, 234-5, 332 " Merovingian, 58 " Phoenician, 9 " Renaiss., 233-5 " Roman, 28-9 " 17 cent., 291 " 18 " 309, 317 " 19 " 328 East Anglia, 60 Edict of Nantes, 305 Edinburgh, High Street, 133 " St. Giles' Church, 133 " National Museum of Antiquities, 77, 132, 150, 165 Edmer, 92 Edward the Confessor, K. of England, 92, 102, 118 " I, K. of England, 67, 92 " II " 93, 162 " III " 93, 121, 161, 162 " IV " 115, 116 " VI " 218, 219 " " " Prayer Book of, 274 " VII " 217, 224 Effigies, sepulchral, jewellery on, 82 Eglentine, Prioress, jewel worn by, 129 Egyptian jewellery, 1-7, 49 Elché, "Lady of," 9, 10 Electrum, primitive Italy, 24 _Elenchi_, 28 Eligius, St. _See_ Eloy Elizabeth, Q. of Bohemia, 301 " " England, 213-20, 232, 234, 237, 239, 251-256, 265, 267, 269, 273, 301 " Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino, 172 Eloy, or Eloi, St., 67, 155 Emeralds, Spanish, 205 Empire jewellery, 326 Enamel, 49 " Battersea, 320 " _basse-taille_, 87, 97, 138 " Bilston, 320 " Byzantine, 35 " Celtic, 41 " champlevé, English, 16 cent., 211 " " medl., 85, 138 " " Romano-British, 45 " " on rings, 17 cent., 295 " " Spanish, 17 cent., 204 " " 16-17 cent., 283 etc. " " 17 cent., 292 " cloisonné, 70, 136, 283 " " Anglo-Saxon, 66, 68 " " Byzantine, 35, 36 " " medl., 84 " " Tara brooch, 66, 78 " Egyptian, 3 " _émail en blanc_, 87 " _émail en résille sur verre_, 273, 293, 296 " _émail en ronde bosse_, 87, 225 " English 16 cent., 216 " " 18 " 313 " "filigree enamel," (_Draht-Email_), 198, 347 " French, 18 cent., 311, 312 " Gallo-Roman, 46 " "gold wire," 224 " Greek, 13, 15, 17 " Hispano-Moresque, 205 " Irish, 66, 78 " Limoges, medl., 86 " " Renaiss. for enseignes, 229 " "Louis Treize," 286, 289, 293 " medl., 84-88 " opaque, French, 16 cent., 199, 200 " painted, 346, 347 " " on peasant jewellery, 344, 347 " " 17 cent., 285, 292, 293, 295 " Renaiss., 180 " Romano-British, 45 " Toutin firing an, 285, 289 " transluscent, 17 cent., 283 " " 18 " 312 " " _See_ _Basse-taille_ " white, _émail en blanc_, 87 " 17 cent., general, 283, 298 " " on watches, 297 " 18 cent., 312 " 19 cent., revival of, 337 England, medl. jewellery, 91-98 " 16 cent. jewellery, 206-221 " 17 " " 299-306 " 18 " " 310 Engraved designs for jewellery, English, 18 cent., 310, 312 Engraved designs for jewellery, French, 16 cent., 200, 201 Engraved designs for jewellery, Flemish, 16 cent., 196, 197 Engraved designs for jewellery, German, 16 cent., 186-7, 191-4 Engraved designs for jewellery, 17 cent., 280-9, 291-8 Engraved designs for jewellery, 18 cent., 308-10, 312, 320 Engraved gems, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154 " " medl. use of, 101-4 " " in rings, Romano-British, 47 " " 16 cent., 227, 245 " " 19 cent., 326, 327 Enkomi, Cyprus, 12 Enseignes, 156, 169 " medl., 107-111, 146 " Renaiss., 222-230, 267 " with skulls, 364, 365 "Equipage," 323 Erasmus, D., 109 Eros, 15, 16 _Escarcelle_, 165 "Esclavo," 204 _Escoffion_, 107, 156 _Esguillettes_, 269 _Espreuves_, 123 Essen, Treasury of, 143 " medl. brooches at, 143-145 Essence d'orient, 358 Estampes, Duchess of, 181 Este, Beatrice d', Duchess of Milan. _See_ Beatrice " Isabella d', Marchioness of Mantua. _See_ Isabella _Estrennes_, 153, 213 Ethelbert, K. of Kent, 65 Ethelswith, 71 " ring of, 72 Ethelwulf, K. of Wessex, 71 " ring of, 72 Ethred, 72 Eton College, 115 Etruscan goldsmiths, 8 " jewellery, 20-26, 333 Étuis, Eng., 18 cent., 309, 310, 323 " pinchbeck, 316 " Renaiss., 272 Eudel, P., 360, 362 _Euphues_, 273 Eustachio, Fra, 175 Evans, A. J., 43 " Sir J., 47, 62, 296 Evelyn, John, 298, 299, 367 Evil Eye, 164, 250 "Exeter Book," 57 Exmewe, Thomas, 208 _Ex voto_, 136 Eyck, van, 106 " John van, 90, 155 Eyelets, Renaiss., 268 Eymaker, 310

_Façon d'Angleterre_, 162 Fahrner, T., 339 Faience, Egyptian, 2, 7 Falize, Lucien, 335 Falkland, Viscount, 295 Fane, Sir S. Ponsonby, 322 Fans, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272 Fashion, influence on jewellery, 28, 80, 178, 370 _Fausse montre_, 324 Faversham, 57 Fay, J. B., 312, 317 Feathers, jewelled, as aigrettes, 17 cent., 231 Feather jewel for hats, English, 17 cent., 300 Fedeli, Ercole, 158 Feder, von, 190 Federigo of Montefeltro, Duke of Urbino, 171 "Felicini" altar-piece, 170 Felicini, Bartolomeo, 170 Felspar, green, 3 Fenwolf, Morgan, 208 Ferdinand of Tirol, Archduke, 188 Ferenzuola, Giovanni da, 185 _Fermail_, 93, 128, 131, 137, 141 _Fermailleurs_, 131 _Ferronnière_, 172, 328 Fessey, J., 310 Fibulæ, xlii, xliii, 127 " Anglo-Saxon, 59, 127 " Byzantine, 34 " Etruscan, 24 " Roman, xlii " Romano-British, xlii, 46 " "spectacle," xlii " _See also_ Brooches Field of Cloth of Gold, 207, 237 Filigree, 19 " Byzantine, 35 " " influence in Europe, 35 " Etruscan, 24 " gold, in Portuguese jewellery, 347 " gold, in 17 cent. memorial jewellery, 368 " Greek, 13, 16 " in Jewish wedding rings, 262 " silver, in German peasant jewellery, 346 Fillets, xxxix " Etruscan, 23 " medl., 105 " Phoenician, 9 " Roman, 28 Finger rings. _See_ Rings _Finger-ring Lore_, 296 Finiguerra, Tommaso (Maso), 168 Firens, P., 293 _Firmacula_, 92, 138 Fisher, Alexander, 339 Fitzhardinge, Lord, 73, 274 Flach, Thomas, 310 Flanders, influence of, in 15 cent., 142 Fleece, Golden, 24 " " Order of, 90 Flemish-Burgundian jewellery, 143-6, 213 Flemish brooches, 15 cent., 146 " paintings, jewellery in, 89-90 " peasant jewellery, 345 " Renaiss. " 196, 197 Fleurs-de-lis, 93, 106 Florence, 167 " Bargello. _See_ Museo Nazionale " Cathedral, 175 " Museo Nazionale (Bargello), 130 " Museo Nazionale (Bargello), Carrand collection, 145 " Pitti Gallery, 170, 233, 294 " Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova, 114 " Uffizi Gallery, 114, 117, 144, 168, 172, 264, 286, 294 " Uffizi Gallery, Galleria delle Gemme, 228 n. " 15 cent. jewellery, 174 Flötner, Peter, 193 _Flower_, pendant called, 210, 217 Flowers, natural, designs in jewellery, 283, 285-9 Fob-pocket, 298, 323, 324, 332 Foil, gold, Anglo-Saxon, 60 Foils for precious stones, 60-63, 180, 260, 351, 355, 356 Fontenay, E., 4, 48, 72, 320, 335 Fontevraud, 141 Foppa Ambrogio, called Caradosso, 168 Forgeries, 313, 355-62 Fornarina, 233 Fortnum collection. _See_ Oxford, Ashmolean Museum Foulc, E., 263 Fouquet, Georges, 338 Foy, René, 338 Foy, St., 112, 136, 137 Foyle, Lough, 43 France, barbaric jewellery, 56 " medl. jewellery, 88 " peasant jewellery, 342, 343 " Renaiss. jewellery, 199-201 " 17 cent. jewellery, 276 " 18 " " 309 " 19 " " 325 Francesca, Piero della, 171 Francia, F., 169, 170, 210 Francis I, K. of France, 172, 181, 199, 200, 208, 227 Frankfort-on-the-Main, 195 " Rothschild collection, 197 " Städel Institute, 233 Franks, the, 56 Franks, Sir A. W., 72, 185 " " _See also_ London, British Museum, Franks Bequest Frauds, 355-62 Freeman, John, 208 Friessler, L., 339 Fritillaries, painted on enamel, 287 Froment-Meurice, 331 Frontlets, Egyptian, 3 " Greek, 16 " 19 cent., 328 Fruit-shaped pendants, medl., 125 Frye, Thomas, 317 Fugger family, 188 " Jacob, 210 Fuller-Eliott-Drake. _See_ Drake Fuseli, H., 312

Gaillard, Lucien, 338 Gallo-Roman jewellery, 46 Garlande, Jean de, 131 Garnets, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57, 58, 60, 61, 63, 67 " in barbaric jewellery, 49, 53 " in mourning jewellery, 370 " in Swiss peasant jewellery, 346 Garter, Order of, 254 " " pendent "George" of, 302 Gaudees (gauds), 124, 125 Gaskin, Arthur, 339 Gaul, 50 " invasion of by Teutonic races, 56 Gaveston, Piers, 67, 93 Geiss, 330 Gems, engraved, antique, in medl. jewellery, 148, 153, 154 " " in enseignes, 16 cent., 227 " " in girdles, 271 " " in pendants, 16 cent., 245 " " in pendants, 17 cent., 291, 292 " " 19 cent., 326-31 " sewn on dress, Byzantine, 34 " _See also_ Engraved gems George, St., enseigne of, 224, 225 "George," of the Order of Garter, 302 George III, K. of England, 313 _Genista_, 110 Gérard, F., Baron, 329 Gerini, Casa, 350 Germanic tribes, 50 Germany, peasant jewellery, 346 " 16 cent., jewellery, 187-96 " 17 cent., jewellery, 276 Gheeraerts, Marc, 352 Ghemert, H., van, 284 Ghent, 89 " altar piece by the Van Eycks, at, 106 Ghiberti, Lorenzo, 168, 210 Ghirlandaio, Domenico del, 169, 170, 210, 263 " Ridolfo del, 170 _Ghirlande_, 169 Gibbons, Grinling, 287 Gibbs Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum _Gigates_, 47 Giovio, Paolo, 260 _Gipcière_, 165 " _beams_, 165 Giraldus Cambrensis, 109 _Girandole_, 317, 318 Girdle, medl., in picture, 156 " -buckle, xlv, xlvi, 159, 160 " " design by Aldegrever, 194 " " " de Bry, 196 " " " Dürer, 190 " -buckles, 18 cent., 322 " -hangers, Anglo-Saxon, 63 Girdlers' Company of London. _See_ London Girdles, xlv, xlvi " Anglo-Saxon, 63 " Greek, 18 " medl., 159-65 " " England, 93, 94 " Renaiss., 270-2 " 17 cent., 296-7 " 19 cent., 329 Giuliano, Carlo, 22, 334, 359 Giustinian, S., 206 Glass, armlets, Romano-British, 47 " beads, Phoenician, 10 " " Roman, 29 " " Romano-British, 45 " diamond rings for writing on, 260 " Egyptian, 3, 6 " millefiori, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " millefiori, in Romano-British jewellery, 46 " painted, in jewellery, "verre églomisé," 203-4 " paste, 1, 49, 52 Glastonbury, 67 Glenlyon brooch, 111, 132 Glockendon missal, 175 Glomy, 203 _Glossopetræ_, 122, 123, 156 Gloves, rings worn over, 149, 259 " slashing of, 259, 265 Gmünd, 339 _Gnadenmedaillen_, 248 Gnauth, 339 Gnostics, 101 Godberta, St., 155, 263 Godstow Priory ring, 150 Golconda, 278, 351 Gold, coloured, 311, 328 " imitation, 358, 359 Golden Fleece, 14 " " collar of, 90 " Hind, 253 "Goldshine," 316 Goldsmiths of Paris, medl., 134 " Company of London. _See_ London " workshops, interiors of, 98, 155, 156, 158, 176, 201 Gondola, pendent jewel, in form of, 197, 247 Gonzaga, Elizabeth, Duchess of Urbino. _See_ Elizabeth Gorget, from Petrossa, 52 Gorgets, ancient Irish, 42 Göss, 339 Gothic ornament, appearance of, 86 " nations, 49, 50 " revival, 19 cent., 331 " style, 19 cent., 332 Græco-Phoenician jewellery, 8 Graff, C., 339 _Grains de chapelet_, 125 Granulated gold, 327, 333 Granulation, Byzantine, 35 " Etruscan, 21, 24 " Greek, 12, 13 " Phoenician, 8 Granson, battle of, 210 Greek jewellery, 8, 11-19 " Islands, peasant jewellery, 246, 346 Green, J. R. (quoted), 66 Gregory XVI, Pope, 22 Gresham, Sir T., 237 Grey, Lady Jane, 254 Gribelin, Simon, 310 Grien, Hans Baldung, 189, 261 Grimani Breviary, 175 Grondoni, G. B., 309, 310 Guarrazar, 50, 53 Guay, J., 320 Guien, J., 310, 317 Guilds, goldsmiths', 134 " " rules against forgery, 356, 358, 359 _Guilloché_ gold, 312 Gurschner, G., 339 _Gypcière_, 94

Habsburg, family, 294 Hadaway, Mrs., 339 Hailler, D., 284 Hair, jewellery of, 368-70 " " 19 cent., 331 " ornaments for the, medl., 114 " " " Renaiss., 223 " " " 17 cent., 291 " " " 18 " 316 Hair-pins, xl, xli " Anglo-Saxon, 57 " Etruscan, 23 " German peasant, 346 " Greek, 17 " Renaiss., 232-3 " Roman, 28 " Romano-British, 45 " 18 cent., 316 " 19 " 328 Hall, Bishop, 259 " Edward, 207, 211, 224 Hals, Agnes, 366 " Frans, 296, 362 Hamilton brooch, 70 " Palace collection, 303 Hammer, 339 Hampton Court Gallery, 245 Hanau, 339 Hannibal, 32 Hans of Antwerp, 208, 213 Harlay, family, 266 Haroun al-Raschid, 84, 118 Harrogate diamonds, 357 Harvey, Gabriel, 261 Hastings, Lord, 46 Hat-badges. _See_ Enseignes " bands, jewelled, 224, 230 " ornaments, medl., 109 Hats, jewelled, medl., 107 " jewels on, English, 17 cent., 300, 301 " rings worn on, 261 Hauer, J. P., 287 Hauptmann, Franz, 339 Hays, Cornelius, 208 Head-appendages, Greek, 16 " dresses, Roman, 28 " ornaments, xxxix " " Dutch, 344 " " ancient Irish, 42 " " Italian, 15 cent., 171, 172 " " medl., 105-12 " " Renaiss., 232 " " 18 cent., 316 " " 19 " 328 Hearts, peasant jewels in form of, 342-5 Hecke, van den. _See_ Van den Hecke Heel, Johann, 309 Heeley, 319 Heem, Jan de. _See_ De Heem Hefner-Alteneck, J. H. von, 195 Hendrickje Stoffels, 191 _Henin_, 107 Henlein, Peter, 274 Henrietta Maria, Q. of England, earrings of, 354 Henry I, K. of England, 92 " II " 141 " III " 92, 141, 151 " IV " 95, 115, 116, 140, 142, 162, 164 " V " 95, 110 " VI " 115 " VII " 216, 219 " VIII " 199, 206-13, 219, 224, 225, 226, 237, 238, 250, 252, 258, 263, 265, 267, 268, 269 " II, K. of France, 200, 365 " III " 200, 234 " IV " 314, 320 " K. of Castile, 109 " Prince of Wales, son of James I, 302-3 Hentzner, Paul, 214 Hera, 19 Herbals, precious stones in, 100 n. Heraclius, Emperor, 59 Herbst, J. B., 310 Herculaneum, 29 " discovery of, 311 Herculean knot, rings shaped like, 32 Heriot, George, 268, 273, 300, 301, 304 " James, 210, 304 Heriot's Hospital, 301 Hermitage Museum. _See_ St. Petersburg Herodotus, 363 Herrick, Nicolas, 220 " Robert, 220, 302 " Sir William, 220, 301, 302 Heyl, Baron von, 136 Highland brooches, 131-3 Hilary, St., 104 " " jewel of, 103, 136 Hilliard, Nicholas, 219, 253, 255 Hipkins, W. and Co., 315 Hirzel, H. R. C., 338 Hispano-Moresque jewellery, 205 Hissarlik, 9 Holbein, Hans, the younger, 190, 210-13, 224, 243, 252, 273, 351, 352, 363, 365 Holford, Major, 288 Holinshed, R., 207, 235 Holland, peasant jewellery, 344-5 Hollar, W., 190, 275 Holtzendorff treasure, 267 " family, 238 Holy Land, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86 Holyrood, 115 Homer, 19 Honervogt, J., 282 Honyson, Guillim, 208 Hooks and loops, medl., 140 " " eyes, Renaiss., 268 Hoop (of ring), xlv Hornick, Erasmus, 193, 194, 251 Horus, 2 Huaud or Huault, 298 Hungary, 16 cent. jewellery, 197-8 " peasant jewellery, 347 Hunsdon, George Carey, Lord, 218, 265 " Henry Carey, Lord, 218, 253, 274 " jewels, 93, 218, 253, 274 Hunterston brooch, 79 Hurtu, J., 285 Hyderabad, 278

Ialysos, 12 Iconoclastic decrees, 34 _Iklyngton Coler_, 115 Ilchester, Earl of, 366 Il Rosso. _See_ Rosso _Impresa_, 223 Imitation diamonds, 313-14 " gold, 358, 359 " pearls, 314 " precious stones, 18 cent., 313 Imitations, 355-62 Incrustation (or inlay), process of, 49-55 Initials, jewelled, Renaiss., on garments, 268 " jewels in form of, 211-12 " pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248 Inlaid jewellery, 35, 49-55 " " Anglo-Saxon, 60 Innocent III, Pope, 96, 148

Intaglio cutting on gold, Greek, 13 " medl., 138 Intaglios, antique, in medl. jewellery, 102 " Renaiss., 227 " Roman, 30 " 19 cent., 326 Inventories, jewellery in, 82, 88-9, 92-6, 142, 215, 258, 263, 353 Ionia, 22 Ipsamboul (Abu Simbel), 4 Ireland, cloisonné enamel, 66 " introduction of Christianity into, 75 " prehistoric ornaments in, 40-4 Irish missionaries, their influence on Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 66, 67 Iron jewellery, 19 cent., 330, 331 " prehistoric, 39 Isabella d'Este, Marchioness of Mantua, 158 " of France, Q. of England, 114 Italian jewellery, 15 cent., 166-76 " " 16 " 183-6 " peasant jewellery, 334, 346

Jacobson, Philip, 302, 304 James I, K. of England, 210, 230, 231, 235, 238, 257, 268, 299, 300-4 " II " 119 " St., of Compostella, 109 Jane Seymour, Q. of England, 212 Janssens, C., 352 Jaquin, 314 Jet jewellery, 48 " medl., 124 " mourning jewellery, 370 " Romano-British, 45, 47 Jewish wedding rings. _See_ Rings "Jingling Geordie," 301 _Joaillerie_, 277 _Joailliers-faussetiers_, corporation of, 314 Joanna of Navarre, Q. of England, 141 _Jocalia_, 92, 138 John Anwarpe. _See_ Hans of Antwerp " of Cambridge, 106 " the Constant, Elector of Saxony, 261 " Frederick, Elector of Saxony, 261 " of Leyden, 250 " St., Baptist, head of, 226, 227 n. " " Evangelist, 36, 99, 103 " King of England, 92, 96 " II, King of France, 88 Jones, W., 296 Jonson, Ben, 151 Jörg, A., 284 Josephine, Empress, 29, 329-30 Juliers, William, Duke of. _See_ William Jupiter, cameo of, considered to represent St. John, 103 " Capitolinus, temple of, 32 Justinian, Emperor, 33, 34 Jutes, 56, 59

K., P. R., 280, 284 Kameiros, 12 Kann collection, 169 Karlsruhe, 190 Kaufmann collection, 263 Kayle, Hugh, 220 Kensington (South) Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum Kent, 60 Kentish cemeteries, 56, 57, 63 Kertch, 14, 16 " forged jewels, said to come from, 360 Kh[=a]-em-uas, 5 Khepera, 2 Kilbride, West, 79 Kilmainham brooch, 77 Kimmeridge shale, 47 King, C. W. (quoted), 100 Kings of the East, Three, 102, 111, 129, 132, 150, 152 Kingston brooch, 60 " -on-Thames, 142 _Klein-Meister_, 191-4 Kneller, Sir G., 353 Knives, Renaiss., suspended to girdles, 272 Knotwork, in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 57 Koul-Oba, 14 Kraft, Adam, 120 _Kreuterbuch_, 100 n., 126

Labarre, P., 282 Laborde, L. de, 277 Laffitte, Gaston, 338 Lalique, René, 338 Lang, Andrew, 221, 353 Lange, Jehan, 208, 209 Latten, 161 La Quewellerie, G. de, 284, 295 Lannoy, Baldwin de, 90 " Raoul de, 116 Lapis-lazuli, 2, 136 Lark Hill, near Worcester, 154 Latium, 24 Laton, 161 Lauingen, 230, 232 Laverstoke, 72 Law, Thomas and Co., 315 "Lazos," 204, 294 Lead, medl. jewels of, 108-10, 131, 161 " models for jewellery, 192-3 Leblanc, 316 Le Blon, M., 284, 304 "_Leda and the Swan_," by Cellini, 185, 228 Ledyard, Adam, 124 Lefebure, F., 282, 291 Lefèvre, R., 329 Légaré, Gédéon, 282, 287 " Gilles, 279, 282, 287-9, 291, 293, 294, 296, 298, 366 Leicester, Robert Dudley, Earl of, 239, 274 Leland, J., 207 Lely, Sir P., 353 Leman, Baptist, 208 Le Mans, xliii, 128 Lemersier, B., 282 Lempereur, 312, 318 Lennox, Henry Stuart, Earl of, 217 " jewel, 217, 257 Lenton, F., 235, 357 Leo III, Emperor, 34 Leonardus, C., 100, 101 Leopold, J. F., 309 Letelen, Albert von, 139 Letters, jewels in form of, 211 " pendants in form of, Renaiss., 248 Leven and Melville, Earl of, 221, 353 Leyden, John of, 250 Liberale di Giacomo da Verona, 175 Liberation, German War of, 330 Liberty, A. Lazenby, 339 Lichtwark, A., 193 Limoges enamel, medl., 86 " enamelled enseignes made at, 229 Limavady treasure, 43 Lion's head on Egyptian jewellery, 5 " Phoenician jewellery, 9 Lions on archaic Greek jewellery, 12 Lipona, Countess, 16 Lippmann, F., 190 Lisbon, Museum of Fine Arts, 347 Linas, C. de, 52 n. "Little masters" (_Kleinmeister_), 191-6 Liverpool, Mayer collection, 60 Lively, 110, 116-7 _Livre de Taille d'Épargne_, 309 Llewellyn, 152 Llys-fæn, Carnarvonshire, 71 Loch Buy brooch, 133 Lochner, Stephan, 145 Lockets, memorial, Eng., 17-18 cent., 368 " 17 cent., 293 Lombard Street, 115 Lombards (Gothic tribe), 50 Lombardy, peasant jewellery, 346 London, British Museum, 3, 4, 8-10, 12, 17, 23-8, 34, 37, 44, 46, 51, 60, 63, 69, 72, 74, 76, 108, 119, 122, 129, 132, 133, 138, 190, 211, 273, 297 " British Museum, Franks Bequest, 37, 110, 145, 148, 246, 264, 368 " British Museum, Gibbs Bequest, 57, 62, 63 " British Museum, Waddesdon Bequest, 125, 184, 226, 231, 248, 272, 303, 366 " British Museum, Sloane collection, 218, 255 " British Museum, Gold Ornament Room, 154, 292 " British Museum, Carlisle collection, 246 " British Museum, Room of Greek and Roman Life, 23 " Cuming Museum, Walworth Road, 361 n. " Dorchester House, 225, 288 " Girdlers' Company, 161, 272 " Goldsmiths' Company, 131, 213 " Guildhall Museum, 108, 165 " National Gallery, 140, 171, 174, 238, 259, 264, 365 " National Portrait Gallery, 141 n., 212, 222, 235, 254 " Royal Academy, 312, 313 " St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate, 115 " St. Paul's Cathedral, 115, 138 " South Kensington Museum Jewellery Exhibition, 1872, 241 " South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum " Temple Church, 128 " Tower, 300 " Victoria and Albert Museum, 31, 36, 51, 72, 73, 120, 122, 129, 130, 138, 139, 163, 203, 218, 226, 231, 246, 248, 249, 254, 257, 266, 272, 273, 294, 296, 321, 334, 347, 356, 365, 369 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Art Library, 308, 344 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Dyce collection, 293 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Jones collection, 293 " Victoria and Albert Museum, Waterton collection, 149, 264 " Wallace collection, 226, 272, 296, 297 Londesborough collection, 129, 264 Loops (clasps), medl., 140 " Renaiss., 268 Lord Mayor of London, collar of, 117 Loreto, Santa Casa, 91 Lorn, brooch of, 133 Lothair II, K. of the Franks, 139 Lotto, Lorenzo, 263 Lotus flower, 4 Louis IX, St., K. of France, 119 " XI, K. of France, 109, 110, 116 " XII " 199 " XIII " 279, 286, 292 " XIV " 266, 279, 282, 293 " XV " 311, 320 " XVI " 311, 323 Louise Augusta, of Schleswig-Holstein, Princess, 339 Luckenbooth brooches, 133-4, 165 Ludovico Sforza, Duke of Milan, 168, 172 Ludwig I, K. of Bavaria, 16 Lulls, Arnold, 231, 302, 304 Lunulæ, 42 Luthmer, F., xxxiv, 82, 135, 197, 240, 339, 352 Lyly, J., 217, 273 Lyons, 277 Lyte jewel, 257, 293, 303, 304, 354 " Sir H. Maxwell, 304 " Thomas, 303, 304, 354

Mabell, 269 Mabuse, 261, 351 Macdougals of Lorn, 133 Macleans of Loch Buy, 133 Macneals of Firfergus, 133 Macquoid, Mrs. Percy, 120 Madrid, Royal Armoury, 53 " Museum of Antiquities, 9 Mænad, 15 Magi. _See_ Kings of the East Magna Græcia, 14, 17, 18 Magnussen, E., 339 Mainz, 135-7 Mainz Cathedral, 137 " " Treasury, 137 " Museum, 136 _Maîtres ornemanistes_, 246 Malone, E., 123 n. Mammillary fibulæ, xliii, 42 Mantle clasps, medl., 140, 141 Manuscripts, representation of jewellery in, 82, 97, 174, 175, 176 Marbode, Bishop of Rennes, 100 n. Marcasite, 315, 319, 321 Marchant, Pierre, 281, 292, 306 Margaret, Q. of Scotland, 114-115 Maria, 312, 319 Marie Antoinette, Q. of France, 316, 317, 318 Mariette, P. J., 288 Martial, 31, 355 Martin, brothers, 204 " Sir Richard, 220 Mary, the Blessed Virgin, 36, 37 " " monogram of, 97, 204, 249 " of Burgundy, Empress, 146 n., 246 n. " daughter of James I, 302 " Q. of England, 207, 219, 237, 254, 269 " Q. of Scots, 220, 221, 234, 265, 268, 269, 353, 366 _Marygold by Temple Bar_, The, 306 Matsys, Quentin, 156, 227 n., 263 Mathias Corvinus, King of Hungary, 175 Mauricius, Emperor, 59 Mayer collection. _See_ Liverpool Maximilian, Archduke of Austria, 248 " I, Emperor, 191, 146 n. " II " 188 Mazarin, Cardinal, 279 Medallions on the hat, 229. _See also_ Enseignes Medals, pendent, Renaiss., 247-8 " " English, 257 Medici, family, 114, 260, 294 " " device of, 260 " Costanza de', 170, 263 " Cosimo de', 260 " Francesco de', 233 " Guiliano de', 171 " Lorenzo de', 171, 260 " Lucrezia de', 292 " Piero de', 260 Mediterranean, 8, 21 Melillo, 334, 359 Melos, 17 "Memento Mori," 363-70 Memorial jewellery, 321, 331 " rings, 364-70 Merchants' marks on rings, 153 Mermaids, pendants in form of, Renaiss., 249, 250, 251 " " hung with bells, 164 n. Merman, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 243, 249, 251 Merovingian dynasty, 52, 55 " jewellery, 46, 56 Merovingians, 50 Meuse, jewels found in, 143 Michelangelo di Viviano, 171 Mielich, Hans, 195, 226 Mignot, D., 193, 231, 280, 284, 304 Migrations of the Tribes, 49 Milan, Ambrosiana, 172 " Brera Gallery, 171 " Crespi Gallery, 225 " Poldi-Pezzoli Museum, 217, 255, 256 " S. Eustorgio, 111 " school of painting, 167 Millefiori glass in Anglo-Saxon jewellery, 59 " " in Romano-British jewellery, 46 Milvian Bridge, battle of, 226 Minden, 139 Miniature cases, 218 " " Elizabethan, 256 " " English, 17 cent., 303 " " 17 cent., 281, 293, 297 " frames, pinchbeck, 316 " " 17 cent., by Marchant, 306 " " jewelled, 18 cent., by Toussaint, 313 Miniatures in bracelets, 319-20 " memorial jewellery, 369 Minster Lovel jewel, 69 _Minuteria_, xxxiii, 227 n. "Mirror of France," 300 Mirror cases, medl. 146 " Renaiss., 272 " 17 cent., 297 Mithridates, 29 Mitres, jewels on, 97, 98 Mocha stone, 321 Models for jewellery in lead, 192-3 Möhring B., 338 Monckton, Lady, 317 Moncornet, B., 282, 287, 288 Monday, John, 208 Mondon, 309, 317 _Monilia baccata_, 29 " medl., 121, 138 " Roman, 29 Monograms, pendants in form of, 204, 212, 248, 249 " sewn on garments, 268 Monogrammists, 284 _Montauban_, 224, 231 Montagu, Lady Mary Wortley, 323 Monte di Giovanni, 175 Montefeltro, Federigo of, Duke of Urbino. _See_ Federigo Moorish influence on Portuguese peasant jewellery, 347 " influence on Spanish peasant jewellery, 205, 347 _Mordant_, xlvi, 159, 160, 162, 271 More, Sir Antonio, 352 Moreau, P., 312 Moreelse, Peter, 232 Morgan, Sir Matthew, 266 " Octavius, 148 " Pierpont, collection, 169, 173, 217, 248, 254, 256, 293, 297, 313 n. Morisson, F. J., 308, 310 Morlière (of Orleans), 287 _Mors de chape_, 137 Morses, 121, 137-40 Mosaic jewellery, 19 cent., 327 Mosaics, Byzantine, 33, 34, 36 Mosbach, H., 282 Moser, G. M., 312 Moss agates, 18 cent., 321 " 19 cent., 328-9 Mottoes on rings, 295-6 Moulds for casting jewellery, 108, 122 Mount Charles, Countess of, 240 Mourning jewellery, 331, 369, 370 " rings, 296, 364-70 Mummies, 1, 6 Munich, 194 " Antiquarium, 3, 16 " Bavarian National Museum, 62, 120, 157, 192, 195, 231, 232, 247 " Coin Cabinet, 248 " jewels made at, 245 " Pinakothek, 261, 263 " Royal Library, 195, 226 " Royal Treasury, 195, 251 " in 16 cent., 188, 189 Munk, Eugenie, 339 Murat, Joachim, 16 Museums, collections of jewellery in, 336 " portraits and jewels in, 349 Mycenæ, 11, 19, 40, 43 Mycenæan jewellery, 11 " period, 21, 22 Mytens, D., 352

Nail, Holy, 204 Nancy, battle of, 107 Nantes, Edict of, 305 Napoleon I, Emperor, 118, 325, 329, 332 " III " 118 Narwhal, 123 Nassaro, Matteo del, 226, 227 National Gallery, London. _See_ London, National Gallery "Navette" pendants, 246 Neckam, A., 92 Newman, Mrs., 339 Neck-chains, xl " medl., 113-17 " Renaiss., 236-41 Necklaces, xl, xliv " Anglo-Saxon, 58, 59, 74 " ancient British, 40 " Egyptian, 4 " Etruscan, 24 " Greek, 17 " hair, 19 cent., 331 " Italian, 15 cent., 172-3 " medl., 113-17, 121 " Phoenician, 10 " Renaiss., 236-42, 266, 285 " " perfumes worn in, 265 " rings worn on, 152, 261 " Roman, 29 " Romano-British, 45 " 17 cent., 291 " 18 " 313, 317, 318 " 19 " 328-31 Necklets, 113-17 " Renaiss., 239-40 Neck-ornaments, ancient Irish, 42 Nef, 246 " jewel, 252 Nene, 72 Neolithic Age, 47 Nephthys, 5 Neuburg, Amalia Hedwig of, 232 " Counts Palatine of, 232 " Dorothea Maria, wife of Otto Henry, Count of, 231 " Otto Henry, Count Palatine of, 230 Newcastle, William Cavendish, Duke of, 263 New College jewels, 96-8. _See also_ Oxford New Year's gifts, 153, 213, 215, 220, 265, 302 Niello, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3 " Byzantine, 36 " Italian, 15 cent., 163, 168, 173 " on medl. brooch, 130 " on Tara brooch, 78 "Niello" designs, engraved, 284, 295 Nolin, P., 285 Norfolk, Duke of, 221 " " badge of, 110 Norman Conquest, 65 Normandy, peasant jewellery, 342, 343 Norsemen, ravages of England, 68 Northumbria, 60 Norway, peasant jewellery, 345 Nose-ornaments, ancient British, 40 Nouches, 70, 93, 111, 121, 141, 142, 145, 223 _Nowche_ or _nuche_, 141, 223 _Nummi bracteati_, Anglo-Saxon, 59 "Nuremberg eggs," 275 Nuremberg, 194 " jewellery made at, 202 " Germanic Museum, 232, 238, 272, 349 " St. Lawrence's Church, 120 " Town Library, 175 " 16 cent., 188, 189 Nutwell Court, 253

Odobesco, A., 52 n.

Olbia, forged jewels said to come from, 360

Olbrich, J. M., 338

_Oldano_, 275 n.

Oliver, I., 303 " P., 293

Olonne, Countess d', 288

Oppenheim, Baron A., 155

_Opus interrasile_, Byzantine, 34, 35 " Roman, 30

Orleans, Duke and Duchess of (1408), 162

_Orles_, 106

Ornament engravings. _See_ Engraved designs for jewellery

Orpheus, 100

Osma, J. G. de, 204

Ossian, 331

Otho II, Emperor, 34

_Ouch_ or _owche_, 141, 223. _See also_ Nouches

Oxford, Ashmolean Museum, 29, 60, 68, 73, 238, 298 " Ashmolean Fortnum collection, 264 " Bodleian Library, 63, 264 " New College, 123, 142, 149 " University Galleries, 293

Oxus treasure, 51

_Paillons_, 180, 260

Palestine, jewellery brought back from, 84, 86

Palissy, Bernard, 229

Palmer, Col. N., 68 " Thomas, 68

_Panier_, 319

Pantikapaion, 14

Paphos, 17

Paris, Bibliothèque Nationale, Cabinet des Médailles et Antiques, 30, 52, 53, 103, 185, 200, 225, 228, 245, 266, 292, 320, 330 " Dutuit collection, 139 " goldsmiths of, medl., 134 " Louvre, 3, 5, 6, 9, 12, 172, 272, 291, 297, 329 " " Campana collection, 23, 24 " " Davillier Bequest, 251 " " Galerie d'Apollon, 137, 139, 154, 249 " " Adolphe Rothschild Bequest, 139, 240, 245 " " Salle des Bijoux Antiques, 23 " " Sauvageot collection, 154 " Musée Cluny, 53, 108, 139, 250, 251 " Notre-Dame, 329 " Quai des Orfévres, 314

Parmigianino (Mazzuola), 233 Parrot, Renaiss. pendant in form of, 249 Parthey, G. F. C., 190-91 Partridge, Affabel, 220 " Mr. and Mrs., 339 Parure, 18 cent., 308 Pastes, 355-7 " imitating garnets, in Barbaric jewellery, 49-54 Paste jewellery, 18 cent., 314 " 19 " 328 Paternosterers, 124 Paton, J., 99 Patrick, St., 75 Pattern-books for jewellers, 17 cent., 280, 304 Pattern-books for jewellers, English, 18 cent., 310 Paul III, Pope, 199 "Paul's windows," 87 Peacocks, 35, 37 "Pea pod" ornament, 281, 289, 292, 293 Pearls, 314 " baroque, in Renaiss. pendants, 244 " " " toothpicks, 251 " in Byzantine jewellery, 33 " earrings, 234, 235, 291 " Q. Elizabeth's, 215 " false or mock, 314, 315, 357, 358 " pendent cluster, on jewels, 253 347 " pendent from Renaiss. jewels, 243 " _perles à potences_, 174 " ropes of, in the hair, 232, 316 " " as necklaces, 113, 239, 318 " "Roman," 358 " in Roman jewellery, 28 " Scottish, 121, 133, 356 " setting of, 15 cent., 174 " "Venetian," 358 " 19 cent., 328 Peasant jewellery, 341-7 " Dutch, 344-5 " Flemish, 345 " French, 342-4 " German, 346 " Hungarian, 197-8, 347 " Italian, 346 " Norwegian and Swedish, 345-6 " Portuguese, 347 " Spanish, 205, 347 _Pectoralia_, 138 Pectorals, Egyptian, 5 " medl., 135-46 Pembroke, Earl of, 116 Penannular brooch, xlii, xliii, 74 Pendants, xl " Anglo-Saxon, 58 " Egyptian, 5 " Etruscan, 24 " Flemish, 16 cent., 196 " girdle, medl., 159-60 " " Renaiss., 272, 275 " Italian, 15 cent., 169, 173 " medl., 118-26, 156 " Phoenician, 10 " Renaiss., 242-57 " " English, 212, 251-7 " " forgery of, 361 " " worn on hats, 223 " Roman, 29, 30 " 17 cent., 281, 291-4 " 18 " 309 _Pendeloques_, 291, 318 _Pendulum_, 93 Penicuik jewel, 221 Penruddock jewel, 252, 353 " Sir George, 353 _Pent-à-col_ (_pentacols_), 113, 121, 242 Pepys, S., 367 _Peres de eagle_, 122 Perfumes in bracelets, 265 " in earrings, 234 " in necklaces, 265 " in pomanders, medl. 125-6 " " Renaiss., 275 Persia, 33, 34, 50 Persian origin of inlaid jewellery, 52 Peru, emeralds from, 205 Peruzzi, Vincenzo, 279 Petitot, J., 288, 293, 304 Petrossa, treasure of, 50, 52 Peutin, John, 90 Pewter, jewels of, 111, 131, 161 Pforzheim, 339 Philibert, Margrave of Baden, 250 Philip "the Good," Duke of Burgundy, 89 n., 90, 155 Phoenicians, 21 Phoenicians jewellery, 7-10 Phoenix jewel, 218, 254, 255, 286 Phillips, Robert 335 Phylacteries, 122 Pichon, Baron, 119, 130, 264 "Picture-cases" (miniature-cases), English, 17 cent., 303 Pictures, jewellery in, 82, 329, 348-54 " Flemish jewellery in, 89, 90 " German jewellery in, 145, 189 " Italian, 15 cent., jewellery in, 167-76 " Italian, 16 cent., jewellery in, 183 " medl. necklaces in, 114-15 " " rings in, 155-6 _Pierre d' Alençon_, 343, 357 Piers Plowman, 153 Pilgrims' signs, 107-11, 222 " forgery of, 360-1 Piloty, 338 Pinchbeck, 315-16, 327, 359 " Christopher, 316, 321 " Edward, 321 Pinnow, 238, 267 Pins, xi-xli " Anglo-Saxon, 57, 74 " ancient British, 41 " Romano-British, 45 Pinturicchio, B. B., 267 Plaquettes, 193 Plate-inlaying, 50 Plates or discs of gold, 11 " " ancient Irish, 43 " " Mycenæan, 12 Platinum, 311 Pliny, 28, 30, 32, 47, 355 Plon, Eugène, 184 Ploumyer, Allart, 208, 209 Plume decoration on hat, 111 Points, Renaiss., 267-9 Poison, medl. tests for, 123 " in rings, 32 Poitiers, Diana of, 266, 364 Pollaiuolo, A., 168, 174, 210 " P., 168 _Polypsephi_ rings, 32 Pomander, design for, by Dürer, 191 " medl., 125-6, 160 " Renaiss., 270, 275 " in form of skulls, 364 " 17 cent., 296 _Pomeambre_, 125 Pompadour, Madame de, 311, 320 Pompeii, 311, 326, 363 Pompey, 29 Pompoms (buttons), Renaiss., 268 Pont-y-Saison, 46 Portinari, Tommaso, 114 " " daughter of, 114, 115, 117 " " Maria, wife of, 114, 144 Portland, Duke of, 221, 235, 354 Portraits, enamelled, as pendants, 17 cent., 292 " on bracelet clasps, 319-20 " on rings, Roman, 31 " " 18 cent., 320 "Portugal diamond," 300 Portugal, peasant jewellery, 347 Posy (posies), 128, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321 Pottery, glazed, 1 Pouches, medl., 165 Pouget, the younger, 312, 314, 317 Pourbus, Peter, 352 Prague, 188, 198 " Cathedral Treasury, 121 Præneste, 24 Prato, Girolamo del, 185 Prayer-books, enamelled gold, 218, 273, 274 Precious stones, imitation of, 355-8 " in modern jewellery, 337, 338 " setting of, in Renaiss. jewellery, 180, 260 " mystery of, 99-104 " 19 cent., 328 Predis, Ambrogio da, 172 Prerogative Royal, 44 Price, F. G. Hilton, 306 "Primavera," 169 "Primrose," Mrs., 350 Prutscher, O., 339 Ptolemaic jewellery, 6 "Pulvisculus aureus," 21 Purbeck, Island of, 47 Purled work, 19 cent., 327 Purses, Anglo-Saxon, 63 " medl., 165 Puy, peasant jewellery, 343 _Pylon_, 5 Pynson, R., 236 Pyrites, iron (marcasite), 315

Quartz, 313 " crystals, 357

Raab, H., 287 Rabelais, F., 199 Raibolini, Francesco. _See_ Francia Raimbau, Mlle., 312 Raleigh, Sir Walter, 235 Rameses II, 4, 5 Raphael, 182, 226 Ravenna, 33, 70 " Sant' Apollinare Nuovo, church of, 36 " San Vitale, church of, 33, 36 Raynes, Robert, 237 _Reasons_, 152 Récamier, Madame, 326 Reccesvinthus, 54 Red Sea, 28 Rée, P. J., 275 Relics, 102, 108, 111, 118, 125 " in rings, 152 Reliquaries, Byzantine, 36 " Italian, 15 cent., 173 " medl., 118-19, 121, 160 " Spanish, 203, 347 Rembrandt, 291 Renaiss. jewellery, its general characteristics, 177-183 Renty, 316 Repoussé work, 11 " Byzantine, 34 " Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 21 " Greek, 13 " Irish, 43 " Renaiss., 227 _Resons_, 152 Reynolds, Sir Joshua, 313, 353 Rhenish enamels, 85-6 Rhine, Irish missionaries on, 67 Rhodes, 12 Richard I, K. of England, xliii, 128 " II " 94, 110, 114, 116, 141 " III " 116, 222 Ring-brooch. _See_ Brooch Ring-money, 40, 43 Rings, xliv, xlv " Anglo-Saxon, 62, 71-3 " betrothal, 261-2 " ancient British, 40 " Byzantine, 37 " charm, 151-2 " with coins, Roman, 32 " with death's heads, 364 " decade, 150 " devotional, 149, 150, 152 " " signets, 153 " made by St. Dunstan, 67 " ecclesiastical, 147-9 " Egyptian, 2, 67 " engagement, 261-2, 296 " engraved designs for, 263, 264, 284, 295, 296 " episcopal, xlv, 148, 149 " Etruscan, 25, 26 " _fede_, 152, 261 " _fyancel_, 152 " giardinetti, 295 " gimmel, 152, 261 " Greek, 18 " with hair, 331 " worn on hats, 261 " iconographic, 149, 150 " of investiture, 148 " Italian, 15 cent., 170 " jet, 47 " Jewish, 262 " key-rings, Byzantine, 37 " " Roman, 31 " _marquise_, 321 " medl., 147-57 " " with antique gems, 96, 101, 103, 148-9, 153-4 " " with false stones, 356 " " forged, 360 " memento mori, 365-70 " memorial, 364-70 " mourning, 296, 321, 367 " Merovingian, 62, 73 " Mycenæan, 11 " worn on necklaces, 152, 261 " nielloed, Anglo-Saxon, 71-3 " " Italian, 15 cent., 173 " ornamental, xlv " " medl., 154-5 " " Renaiss., 258, 259 " " 17 cent., 295, 296 " papal, 148 " Phoenician, 10 " in pictures, 155-7, 261, 263, 295 " poison, 32 " _polypsephi_, Roman, 32 " posy, 152, 262, 295, 296, 321, 367 " with relics, 152 " religious, 149-50 " Renaiss., 258-64 " arranged along a roll of parchment, 155, 156, 170, 263 " Roman, 31 " Romano-British, 47 " Samothracian, 32 " in ancient sculpture, 18 " signets, xlv, 298 " " of Childeric I, 53, 63 " " Egyptian, 6 " " Greek, 18 " " medl., 153-154 " " Roman, 31 " " 17 cent., 298 " talismanic, 111 " Teutonic, _à trois grains_, 73 " wedding, xlv " " medl., 152 " " converted into memorial, 367 " " Jewish, 262 " " Renaiss., 262 " " 17 cent., 296 " " 18 cent., 321 " 17 cent., 295-6 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 320, 321 Rivard, C., 282, 291 Rivers, ornaments found in, 107 Roach Smith nouche, 69 Robin, 331 Robinson, F. S., 339 Rococo, 307, 308, 311, 324, 332 Rogart, 77 "Roman de la Rose," 113, 164 Roman jewellery, 27-32 Romano-British jewellery, 44-48 "Romantic" jewellery, 331 " style, 332 Romanus, Emperor, 34 Rome, Barberini Palace, 175 " Baths of Petus, 182 " Castle of St. Angelo, 334 " National Gallery, 225 " Vatican, 22 " " Appartamento Borgia, 267 " " Gallery of Constantine, 226 " " Library, 175 " " Loggie, 182 Romerswael, Marinus van, 156 Romney, Earl of, 273 Rosenheim, Max, 193 n., 294 "Rössel," "das goldene," 88 Rosso, Il, 201 Rosaries, 124-5, 156 " as bracelets, 157 Rosary beads in form of skulls, 364 Rosette, jewelled, on breast, 17 cent., 294 Rothschild, Baron F., 303 " Baron K., 197 Rotterdam Gallery, 232 Rouen, 128 " peasant jewellery, 343 Roy, 237 Rubens, P. P., 287 Rubies, 148, 260 " of Charles the Bold. _See_ Three Brothers Rudolf II, Emperor, 100, 188, 189 Rudolphine Period, 188 Runic characters on Hunterston brooch, 79 Russia, Byzantine jewellery in, 38 " Greek jewellery in, 14-16

Sabines, 20 Sabra, princess, 224 _Sacré Coeur_, 345 Safety-pins, xli-xliii, 41 Saint, T. D., 312 St. Angelo in Vado, 333 St. Denis Cathedral, 137 " " treasury, 103 _Saint Esprit_, 343 St. Germain, Musée des Antiquités Nationales, 46 St. Helen's Church, Bishopsgate. _See_ London St. Hilary, jewel of, 103 St. Paul's Cathedral. _See_ London St. Petersburg, Hermitage Museum, 9, 15, 16 Saitapharnes, tiara of, 360 Salting, George, 119, 176, 224, 248, 263 Santini family, drawings by, 308, 317, 318, 344 Sapphires, 54, 151 Saragossa, treasury of the Virgen del Pilar, 144, 203, 249 Sarawak, Ranee of, 339 Sardinia, 8, 9, 21 Sardonyx, 31 Sarre, 59 " brooch, 60 Sarum, 138 Saur, C., 284 Savoy, peasant jewellery, 342 Saxons 50, 56 Scandinavians, 50 Scarabs, 2, 5, 6, 10, 25 Scent-cases, 125-6, 275 Schaffhausen onyx, 103, 104, 136 Schaper, Hugo, 238 Schliemann, H., 11, 40 Schneider, F., 137 Schönbrunn, 294 Schöpfer, H. 250 _Schotenornamentik_, 281 _Schwarzornamente_, 283, 289 Scissors suspended to girdle, 272 Scorpion, jewelled, 172 Scotland, introduction of Christianity into, 75 " Celtic brooches, 75-9 " medl. brooches, 131-4 Scott, Sir Walter, 301, 331 Scythian tribes, 14 Seal stone, Egyptian, 6 Seals, medl., 139 " pendent, 17 cent., 298 " 18 cent., 309, 312, 322-4 " 19 " 332 Seffrid, Bishop of Chichester, 149 Seghers, D., 287 Seneca, 29 Serpent bracelet, Roman, 30 " ring, Greek, 18 Set-Hathor, 5 _Sévignés_, 294, 298, 318 Shagreen jewel-cases, 362 Shale, Kimmeridge, 47 Shakespeare, W., 151, 216, 229, 237 " portrait of, 235 Shank (of ring), xlv Sheffield plate, 315 " steelwork, 315 Sherborne Castle, 267 Ships, pendants in form of, 249, 252, 253, 347 Shoe-buckles, 299, 321, 322 " -strings, 322 Shoes, rosettes on, 299 Shore, Jane, 115 Shrines, jewels on, 91, 108 Sicily, 27 " Arabs in, 84 " peasant jewellery, 347 " Roman plunder of, 27 Siena Cathedral, 175 " school of painting, 167 _Signacula_, 109, 111 Signs of pilgrimage, 107 Silhouette, Etienne de, 314 " designs, 283, 284, 289, 304 " portraits, 314 Silhouettes in mourning jewellery, 369 Silver jewellery worn by virgins, 342 _Similor_, 316, 359 Simon, James, 163 Simpson, E., 339 " T., 304 "Sippenaltar," 145 n. Sirens, pendants in form of, 250 Skeletons, 363-7 Skulls, 364-6 Slashes in garments, 259, 265, 268-9 Slides, 342, 343 " memorial, English 17-18 cent., 368 Sloane, Sir Hans, 72, 211, 255 Slott-Möller, H., 339 Smith, C. Roach, 62, 69 " J., 310 " R. Soden, 264 Sodoma (Bazzi), 233 Solder, Egyptian, 3 " Etruscan, 20, 21 " Greek, 13 " Phoenician, 8 " prehistoric, 39 Solis, Virgil, 193, 194 Somerset, Alfred in, 68 " Anne, Duchess of, 233, 273 " Edward Seymour, Duke of, 233, 273 " Robert Carr, Earl of, 235 Southampton, Henry Wriothesley, Earl of, 235 South Kensington Museum. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum Spain, Arabs in, 84 " Phoenician sculpture in, 9 " peasant jewellery, 347 " 16 cent. jewellery, 202-205 " 17 cent. jewellery, 294 "Spangle money," 59 Spenser, E., 217 Sphinxes, 5, 16 Spilman, Sir J., 301 _Spinther_, 30 Spiral ornament, 11 " " Celtic, 39, 75 Spitzer collection, 246 SS Collar, 116-17 Stabler, Harold, 339 Stafford, Lady, 154 _Stalagmia_, 29 Steatite, 5 Steel jewellery, 315, 319 Stephan, Master. _See_ Lochner Stephanus. _See_ Delaune, Etienne Stock-buckles, 322 Stoffels, Hendrickje, 291 Stoffler, W., 339 "Stomacher," 318, 350 Stone Age, 47 Stowe, J., 207 Stras or Strass, 314, 315, 357 Strawberry Hill, 257, 288 Strigel, Bernard, 189, 238 Stuart, Arabella, 299 " Henry, Earl of Lennox. _See_ Lennox Stubbes, Philip, 215, 234, 272 Studded girdle, 161 Suffolk, Henry Grey, Duke of, 254 Sulla, 28 Sumptuary laws, 27, 93, 94, 161 Sustermans, J., 294 Svinthila, 50, 54 Swans on Byzantine jewellery, 37 Sweden, peasant jewellery, 345 Switzerland, use of marcasite in 18 cent., 315 " peasant jewellery, 346 Symonds, J. A. (quoted), 168, 185 Symony, P., 282, 284

_Tableau_ or _tabulet_, 120 Tablets, votive, pendent, 119 Tag of girdle, xlvi, 160 Tags (aglets), 269 Talaura, 29 Talbot, 249 " Earl of Shrewsbury, badge of, 110 Talismans, 30, 99, 101, 109, 111, 121, 129, 132, 147, 151 Talismanic inscriptions on Scottish brooches, 111, 131 Tallien, Madame, 326 Taman, 14 Taplow buckle, 63 Tara brooch, 66, 78, 79 Tassels, Greek, 18 " of medl. clasps, 140 " Phoenician, 9 Tassie, J., 315, 330 Tauric Chersonese, 14 Tavernier, J. B., 278 Terrey, William, 304 _Tet_, 2 Teutonic jewellery, 51, 53 " nations, 56, 57 Tharros, 9, 10 Theban dynasties, 3 Theodamas, 100 Theodora, Empress, 33 Theophano, 34 Theophilus, 85, 356 Thirty Years' War, 189, 238, 276 Thomas à Becket, St., 91, 96, 109, 140 Three Brothers, jewel called, 209, 300 Three Kings of the East. _See_ Kings Tiara of Saitapharnes, 360 Tiffany, Messrs., 339 _Tinctura_, 278, 351 Titian, 264 _Titulus_, 132 Toadstones, 100, 123, 151 Toes, jewels on, 19 cent., 326 Tongue of buckle, xlvi Toothpicks, 250-1 Tor Abbey, Devonshire, 365 Tornabuoni, Giovanna, 169 Torque, from Petrossa, 52 _Torques bracchialis_, 30 Torques, 236 " ancient British, 40 " " Irish, 42, 43 Touching-pieces, 123 Tournai, 52 _Tours de tête_, 328 _Tousches_, 123 Toussaint, Augustus, 313 Toutin, H., 285, 295 " J., 285, 293, 295 " J., in his workshop, 289 Tovaloccio Piero, Giovanni and Romolo del, 185 Tower of London. _See_ London Townley brooch, 70 "Toys," "Toyman," 316 Tradescant, John, the younger, wife of, 298 Translucent enamel on relief. _See_ Enamel, _basse-taille_ Transylvania, 58 Traquair, Mrs., 339 Treasure hoards, 51 " Trove, 44 Treasuries, jewellery preserved in, 83 Trender, Peter, 220 _Tressoures_, 93, 105 "Triplet," 357 Triptychs, pendent, 119-20 _Triquetra_, 78 Triton, pendant in form of, 243, 249 Troad, 9 Trumpet pattern, Celtic, 43 " " on Tara brooch, 78, 79 Tucher, Baron, collection of, 225 "Tulipomania," 286 Tulips painted on enamel, 286 Turkey stone, 151 Turquoise, 3, 67, 151 Turner (potter), 315 Tuscany, schools of painting, 167 Twiselton, John, 208 _Tymborychoi_, 13 Tyrol, peasant jewellery, 346 Tyszkiewicz, Count, 17, 360 Tytler, P. Fraser, 257

Ucker-Mark (N. Germany), 267 Ugadale brooch, 133 Uffila brooch, 62 Uffizi Gallery. _See_ Florence Umbria, peasant jewellery, 346 Unger, Elsa, 339 Unicorn, Master of the, 200 Unicorn's horn, 123 Unicorns on medl. jewels, 145 " on Renaiss. jewels, 243 _Uniones_, 28 University brooch, 78 _Uræus_, 2 Urban VI, Pope, 122 Usekh collar, 5 Usertsen III, 5 Utrecht, John of, 208 _Uza_ or _utchat_, 2

Van den Hecke, J., 287 Van der Cruycen, L., 312, 317 " Doort, Abraham, 219 " Goes, H., 114, 117, 144 " Gow, J., 213 n. Van de Velde, H. C., 338 Van Dyck, A., 354 Van Somer, P., 352 Van Strydonck, L., 339 Van Thielen, J. P., 287 Vasari, G., 168, 227 Vatican. _See_ Rome Vauquer, J., 287-9, 293 Vautier, 297 Velasquez, 294 Venetian pendants, Renaiss., 246 Venetians, sack of Constantinople by, 38 Veneto (Veneziano), Bartolommeo, 225 Venice, Byzantine jewellery in, 83-84 " Library of St. Mark's, 175 " in Middle Ages, 89 " port of, 15-16 cent., 167 " school of painting, 167 Vermiculated patterns in gold, Anglo-Saxon, 63 Vernicles, 130 Veronese, Paolo, 172 Veronica, 130 n. _Verre églomisé_, 203-4 Verrocchio, Andrea del, 168, 174 210 Versailles, Picture Gallery, 329 Verus, Lucius, 292 Vespasian, 28 Vespucci, Simonetta, 168 Vesuvius, 311 Vever, 338 Victoria, Q. of England, 257 Vienna, Imperial Art Collections, 30, 145, 185, 247 " Imperial Art Collections, Antiken-Kabinet, 228 " Picture Gallery, 155, 212 " Treasury, 188 " jewellery in, 18 cent., 308 " reproductions made in, 361 Vigée-Lebrun, Madame, 329 Vinci, Leonardo da, 172 Virgin, The. _See_ Mary, the Blessed Virgin Visigoths, 50, 54 Vos, Cornelis de, 296 Vovert, J., 285 Vulci, 23, 24 Vyner, Sir Robert, 305

Waddesdon Bequest. _See_ London, British Museum Wagner, Anna, 339 Walpole, Horace, 214, 257, 288 Walsingham Priory, 91, 108 War of Liberation, German, 330 Wars of the Roses, 95 Warwick, Earls, badge of, 110 "Wasps," 316 Watches, 16 cent., 274 " 17 cent., 274, 275, 297-8 " 18 cent., 309, 323-4 " egg-shaped, 275 " false, 324 " in form of skulls, 364 Watch-cases, pinchbeck, 316 " " 18 cent., 313 " -chains, hair, 331 " -keys, 18 cent., 310, 322-3 Waterton, Edmund, 71, 149 n., 264 " collection. _See_ London, Victoria and Albert Museum Way, Albert, 257 Wedgwood, 315, 319, 321, 328, 330 Weimar, Picture Gallery, 261 Wells Cathedral, sculpture on, 128 Werner, J. H., 338 Westminster, 211, 268 " Abbey, 92, 102, 119, 141, 215 Whistles, pendent, 190, 193, 198, 250, 251 Wight, Isle of, 56, 57, 59, 60 Wild jewel, 218, 254 Wilde, W. R., 42 n. William I, K. of England, 91 " III " 306 " Duke of Juliers, 250, 259 " St., of York, 141 " of Wykeham. _See_ Wykeham Williams, John, 238, 257, 302 Wilson, H., 339 Wilton House, 116 Winchester Cathedral, 98, 148 Windsor Castle, 219, 224, 225, 249, 257, 292 Witham, 74 Wittislingen, 62 Woeiriot, Pierre, 201, 219, 234, 246, 263, 366 Wolfers, P., 339 Wolgemut, M., 189 Wolsey, T., Cardinal, 208 Wootton-under-Edge (Gloucestershire), 116 Worley, Nicolas, 208 Wreaths, Byzantine, 35 " Greek, 16 " medl., 105 Wright, T., 101 Wykeham, William of, Bishop of Winchester, 96-8, 142, 149

Yecla, 9 York Minster, 138 " " shrine of the head of St. William, 141

Zerrenden, F., 339 _Zona_, 93 Zucchero, F., 253, 352, 353 Zundt, Mathias, 194

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