Part 2

In 1655, an Indian girl stole some peaches from a farm near the present site of Trinity Church, New York, and was shot by the farmer. On the night of September 15th, 1655, five hundred Indians made a night attack upon New Amsterdam, being repulsed, they crossed the river and set fire to every house in Pavonia. Twenty-eight farms and outlying plantations with crops and buildings were all destroyed. Of the settlers one hundred were killed, one hundred and fifty were taken prisoners and three hundred were left homeless. For five years the settlements were practically abandoned. According to the Indian laws the title to the lands was again vested in them by right of conquest. In 1658 the Indians made a new deed of the territory to the Dutch. The former settlers who were about to return to their farms asked for exemption from taxes that they might be able to put their farms in order. The petition was granted on condition of their building a fortified village. In February, 1660, a decree was issued ordering all farmers to move their houses into groups, that might be protected by palisades or stockades, from six to seven feet above the ground. Indian stockades always were of tree trunks, as are those of the Hudson Bay Company to this day. Probably the early Dutch were also, although the later stockades may have been of heavy plank.

COMMUNIPAW.

On September 8th, 1660, Jaques Cortelyou was ordered to survey Gemoenepa and lay it out into village lots. The village site fronted on the Bay, was two hundred feet deep and extended from what is now Communipaw avenue on the north to the Bay Shore House on the south. The Council ordered that the village should be stockaded, but there seems to have been numerous delays, for in June, 1663, Gerrit Gerritsen, Harman Smeeman and Dirck Claussen were appointed commissioners to fortify Gemoenepa. May 9th, 1661, Egbert Sandersen and Jan Theunissen, inhabitants of Midwout and Amersfoort, L. I., petitioned for leave to erect a saw-mill on a stream at Gemoenepa and move their families there and for a lot of land for each. The request was granted and probably they erected a mill below the Point of Rocks on the stream formerly called the Creek of the Woods and "Creek of the High Woodlands." In papers of 1671, the mill is mentioned as the "Mill of Hossemus;" probably from this mill the creek received its name of Mill Creek. Later Priors Mill was built upon this site and remained until removed and the creek filled in when the cut was made for the Pennsylvania railroad in 1837. In October, 1661, Sandersen asked permission to erect a saw-mill on Showhank Brook; this creek had its rise in an Indian spring in West Hoboken; it ran south until it reached the point where New York avenue crosses Palisade avenue; thence it turned down the hill through a wild ravine and emptied into Mill Creek. There was a saw-mill on this stream at the foot of the hill, until it was destroyed by fire in 1835.

The first legalized ferry across to Manhattan Island was established at the foot of Communipaw avenue when the village of Bergen was started in the fall of 1660 by William Jansen. The boats were periaugers, the old Spanish pirouge, pointed at both ends, with two masts, but no bowsprit. When horses and carriages were to be transported they were detached and lifted into the boat. The Governor General and Council fixed the rates. Jansen had much trouble, he claimed the exclusive right to transport people and goods to Nieu Amsterdam and objected to people crossing in their own boats. He complained to the authorities at Nieu Amsterdam and the people brought a counter charge against him for refusing to ferry people across; judgment was rendered January, 1663, that "the Sheriff must assist him in getting his pay and that he must do his duty or be discharged." He and his successors ran regular boats three times a week. In 1669 Governor Carteret issued a license to Peter Hetfelsen to run a ferry from Communipaw to New York with a list of the rates to be charged; all of which were payable in wampum. "Any person, letter, packett or message of public business, and the Governor and his family were to be carried free." Hetfelsen was succeeded in 1672 by John Tymensen under the same conditions. From that date there is no mention of the ferry until 1783 when Aaron Longstreet and Company advertised that "constant attendance was given by the boats at the ferry stairs, near the Exchange, at 3 p. m. to bring passengers to Communipaw where the Newark stage would be ready to convey them to Newark and thence by the Excellent New York and Philadelphia Running Machines in one day to Philadelphia."

The first road built in this county was from Communipaw to Bergen in the fall of 1660. It ran along the present Communipaw avenue to Summit avenue, then northerly along Summit avenue to Academy street; thence westerly to Bergen. It was called the "Off-fall" road, from the stream that ran from Tuers pond and fell over a ledge of rock at the present intersection of Grand street and Communipaw avenue. Until Grand street was extended across the marsh in 1848 the people from Communipaw and along to Bergen Point could only reach Jersey City by way of Bergen, and the Priors Mill road or Newark avenue; where Monticello avenue now is was a marsh until comparatively recent times. On November 24th, 1790, the Legislature appointed five commissioners to locate and build bridges across the Hackensack and Passaic and lay out a road four rods wide from the Newark Court House to Paulus Hook. They were authorized to raise by lottery £27,000, part of which was to aid in completing the road, part to build a bridge over the Raritan, and part in providing suitable buildings for the Legislature.

BERGEN.

March 1st, 1660, Tilman Van Vleck petitioned for permission to found a village near the maize land, a clearing and Indian corn field at and around what is now the junction of Montgomery street and Bergen avenue. He was refused and again asked, to be again refused, April 12th. A third application upon August 16th of the same year was successful. It was granted upon the following conditions: "The site should be selected by the Governor and Council; it must be a place easily defended; the land to be distributed by lot, and work on each plot begun within six weeks. Each owner of a lot to send one man able to bear arms. The houses were to be within a fortified village, and the farms were to be outside." It is highly probable that Governor Stuyvesant planned the new village, which was surveyed and laid out by Jaques Cortelyou, Surveyor of Nieu Netherland. This, the first village in New Jersey, was named Bergen, after a small town in Holland, the most important of the provinces constituting the United Netherlands. A square of eight hundred feet on each side was cleared and crossed with two streets that intersected at right angles. A plot in the centre of 160 by 220 feet was reserved for public use. On the exterior of the outer streets now known as Vroom, Idaho, Tuers and Newkirk, surrounding the entire plot, the stockade was erected, with gates at the cross streets, which are now known as Academy street and Bergen avenue. This was completed in 1661. Tradition states that on the corner of Vroom and Tuers streets was built a block house as a protection against the Indians. It was near the first church. Winfield thinks that the houses were of logs and probably thatched with cattails. It is an interesting fact that the first lot taken in the new village, now known as 201 Academy street, was bought by Cornelis Van Reypen, 1st. The house now occupied by Mr. Cornelius Van Reypen, 3d, is the second upon the lot, which has always been in the possession of and the home of the lineal descendants of the founder of the family in Bergen. It is also true of the Van Wagenens, Romeyns, and Van Winkels on Academy street, that they are living on the lands allotted to their ancestors at the founding of Bergen, which have never passed from the family possession. Representatives of the Sip and Newkirk families also still hold ancestral lands. In this respect Bergen has quite an exceptional record for an American town.

BERGEN COURT.

Here in Bergen the first local Court in New Jersey was organized in September, 1661, with Tielman Van Vleck as schout or sheriff, and Michael Jansen, Herman Smeeman and Casper Stynmets, as schepens or magistrates, something like justices or aldermen. The schout was afterwards authorized "to fill and execute the office of auctioneer." All criminal cases were referred to the Director General and Council of Nieu Netherland. Only minor offenses, such as brawls, slanders, scolding, threats, etc., could come before this Court. On July 19th, 1673, Mr. John Berry's house in Bergen was made "ye prison for the Province," until a house could be built for that purpose, and Adrian Post, the constable, was appointed keeper. Later a "lock up" was built on the easterly side of the square near the school-house. On the westerly side were the stocks and the whipping post. The stocks were still standing in 1824, and even later, and the whipping post was a terror to evil doers as late. In 1662, a well was dug in the center of the square. Troughs were placed around it for the use of the cattle, and a long sweep used to raise the water. This well was used into the present century, when it was covered and during the war of 1812-14 a liberty pole was erected in it. In 1870, when the square was paved the pole was taken down and no trace of the well is left.

Engelbert Steenhuysen was the first schoolmaster in Bergen, having been licensed October 6th, 1662. He was allowed two hundred and fifty guilders in wampum annually and "some other stipulations beside the school money, as reason and equity shall demand." It seems that he was required "to look out and procure a suitable place in which to keep the school." According to the Albany records (_vide_ Winfield) the people of Bergen addressed a memorial to the Council that he might be obliged to fulfill his contract to act as Voorleezer and Schoolmaster for two years. The church records do not mention him as Voorleezer. In 1664 the first school-house was built on the lot set apart for school purposes on the northeast corner of the square. Mr. Winfield states that this school-house was of logs, but from the records in the Deacons Account books it evidently was not. It is not known positively whether it was of stone, brick, or frame, but several entries of "lbs. of nails," "whitewashing" and "nailing boards in the gable," are included in the account of work and repairs upon the building. Whatever it was, for about fifty years it was used, and then a new school building was erected on the site of the first. The records state that, "On Tuesday, May 11, 1708, Mathews Bensum had made a foundation, and Mr. Adrian Vermuelen, Voorleezer at Bergen, laid the corner stone."

The following is the itemized account of the expenses incurred:

1708 To Adrian Quackinbush for 100 boards st. at 28 st. apiece f140. " To Mathew Bensum, 10 days at 10f per day; mason 100. " To Martin Winne, 21 days at 10f; mason 210. " To Risso, the hod-carrier, 21 days at 3 realtje per day 95.10 " To 6 lbs. nails at 3f per lb. 18. " To the glazier, 23 feet of glass 69. " To Samuel Bayard, for 84 lbs. nails at 3f per lb. 252. " To 5 lbs. nails at 3f per lb. 15. " To lock for the door 7.10 -------- Total for 1708 907.

1710 Expended over 1708 f907. May 3 To Mathew Mott for iron work 84. " To Helmigh Roelofse for paving stone (steen blinkers) 86. " To Cornelis Van Vorst, 2 lb. nails at 3f per lb. 6. " To Hendrik Clausse Kuyper for 4 lb. nails 12. " To Gerrit Stynmets for 4 lb. nails 12. Oct. 3 To Gerrit Roose for laying the ceiling 40. " To his board 6. " 10 lbs. nails 15. " To 10 boards at 36 stivers apiece 18. " For carting the boards 7.10 -------- Total cost f1,193.10

Several citizens, evidently gratuitously, carted materials to the site, in all sixty-three loads of stone, twenty-one loads of clay, five loads of sand, one load of lime. Repairs were made in 1782. In 1790 the Columbia Academy was erected on the same site and stood until 1857, when the present school-house, No. 11, was built. In the rear wall of this building are many of the stones used in the old Academy and it is ornamented with the same weather vane that adorned the former building. Tradition states that this is the veritable weather vane that first surmounted the steep roof of the Octagonal Church, then was removed to the second church, from which it was placed on Columbia Academy when the present church was erected in 1841.

In the early days of the little settlement, religious services were undoubtedly held in the school-house, and in the absence of a minister were conducted by the Voorleezer or clerk. In 1662 the schout and schepens of the village petitioned the Council for a minister, stating that certain persons had pledged themselves to subscribe four hundred and seventeen guilders in wampum annually for the support of a minister. But there was no local pastor of this first church in New Jersey until 1750. Until then the pastors from New York came over at stated times of the year, very often during week days, to administer the sacraments of Baptism and the Lord's Supper, admit new members, install the elected elders and deacons and to conduct special services. Also pastors from Long Island, Esopus, Fishkill, Tapan, Raritan and other places preached occasionally at Bergen. These visiting pastors received from the Bergen congregation from twenty-five to seventy-two guilders per service besides expenses and board. The accounts show that the New York ministers paid six guilders for ferriage and six guilders for a carriage from the ferry to Bergen. Twelve guilders for board was charged after every visit of a minister. From 1672 to 1680 Domine Van Nieuwenhuysen preached and administered the sacraments at Bergen three times a year on week days, for which he received "thirty bushels or fifteen bags of wheat."

THE FIRST CHURCH.

In 1680 the first church building was begun in Bergen, the total cost so far as it is possible to get at the figures, was two thousand six hundred and twelve guilders. It was an octagonal stone building with the roof sloping to a point and surmounted with a vane bearing a rooster. The windows were placed very high. In the summer of 1683 the first bell was placed in the high pointed roof, probably a gift from some of the members. The bricks in the windows and arch over the door were brought from Holland. Over the door was a stone with this inscription: "Kirk Gebouwt in Het yaer 1680." Domine Taylor gives an interesting description of the interior of the "little church" as it is often called in the account books. "The bell-ringer stood in the center of the church. Pews were placed around the walls and occupied only by the men; the women sat in chairs. The pulpit was high and reached by stairs; below and in front of the pulpit was a little pew with a book-board in front of it for the use of the Voorleezer, who had a long rod with a slit in the end which he reached up to the minister, who inserted in the slit notices to be read." The collections were in wampum for many years, and it was one of the duties of the deacons to sell the wampum to the heads of families, who each distributed it among the members of his family and they deposited it in the collection bags. These bags were of black velvet attached to a long pole. At the bottom of each bag was a small bell to arouse the people at collection time. The bags were hung on hooks in a suitable box beside the pulpit near the deacons' seat; at the proper time the deacons each with bag in hand presented themselves before the pulpit, received their charge from the minister and then went among the congregation and made the collections. The bags were spoken of as "the bell." This custom continued until 1800.

THE FIRST PALL.

The first pall the church was able to buy, cost, according to the Deacons account:

10 el of black cloth at 24[f] per el f240 A linen cover to protect the pall 14 ----- Total f254

It was first used at the funeral of Engelbert Steenhuysen, January 16th, 1678. The rent of the pall was quite a source of income to the church. The price to an adult was fourteen guilders and to a child seven guilders, until June 14th, 1715, when it was reduced to six guilders for an adult and three guilders for a child. On January 17th, 1715, the second pall was bought for one hundred and ninety-five guilders, and the old one probably refitted to use at the burial of children. On January 1st, 1798, a fine large pall was bought for £5 11 s., 3 d. and a small one £2, 13 s., 10 d. The cost of the bier used at funerals was usually seventeen or eighteen guilders, and one lasted five or six years. On May 26th, 1678, Bergen's first communion set was bought at an expense of seventy-four guilders and ten stivers, and consisted of the following articles: "Eight pounds of pewter, being three plates and a pitcher of 6 guilders the lb., and two pewter beakers at 12 guilders apiece, and one el of Osnaburger linen." At the same time 11 el linen was bought for a table cloth, costing 5 guilders 10 stivers per el, or 60 guilders 10 stivers for the whole. On January 26th, 1731, the pewter cups were changed for two silver ones, bought of Hendrikus Boele and costing five hundred and nineteen guilders and ten stivers in wampum. The latter cups are still used at every communion service of the Bergen Reformed Church. A large Staten Bible was bought in 1620, costing sixty guilders and was probably used until the services were conducted in English.

THE SECOND AND THIRD CHURCHES.

In 1773 a new church building was erected in the second cemetery, which had been opened in 1738, on the southwest corner of Vroom street and Bergen avenue. It fronted Bergen avenue, about the center of the east side of the lot. The stone above the door of the first church was placed above the door of the second building with a stone beneath with the inscription: "Her bowt in Het yaer 1773." Both are now over the door on the south side of the present church building on Bergen and Highland avenues of which the corner stone was laid August 26th, 1841. This site is part of the land originally reserved for the pastor's use. In the walls of the present church are many of the sand stone blocks from glacial bowlders that were formerly built into the walls of the earlier church buildings. The third church was dedicated July 14th, 1842. The dedication sermon was preached in Dutch and understood by many of the congregation. Mr. Versteeg, in his translation of the Church Records states that Dutch ceased to be the language of the pulpit and of the church records May 26th, 1793, when Mr. John Cornelison was ordained and installed as pastor, although in some instances English and Dutch were used alternately in the records as late as 1805. Old residents tell me that they have heard occasional sermons in Dutch at a very much later date. In "The Annals of the Classis and Township of Bergen," Domine Taylor states that "singing in Dutch was discontinued about 1809, but preaching in Dutch continued for some time later." Two of the hymns sung at the dedication of the new church were composed by Mrs. Anna R. Taylor, wife of the pastor, the Rev. Benjamin C. Taylor. In the early days the Bergen Reformed Church required of the applicants for membership a very rigid examination before the minister and consistory in Bible history, evidences of the truths of Christianity, and the Doctrines of the Church as set forth in the Heidelburgh Catechism. The young people went at least once a week to "Catechism" to the pastor, the Voorleezer or an elder, until perfectly familiar with the Catechism.

In the early Dutch Churches on Long Island there was an officer called Krank besoecker--Sick Visitor, also sometimes called Zieck-trooster--the Sick Consoler, or Comforter; undoubtedly the same office existed in the early Bergen Church, but if so whether it was filled by the Voorleezer or some other member of the congregation I cannot say. The name of "Sick Consoler" is very suggestive of kindly brotherhood, expressing much more than the modern name of the same office.

THE VOORLEEZER.

The Voorleezer was a very important official in the Reformed Church and combined the duties of several offices. 1st, as Voorleezer or clerk, upon Sundays, before the minister entered the pulpit, the Voorleezer took his place at the desk in front of the high pulpit or "preaching chair," as it was called, and opened the services by announcing and reading a verse from the Psalms. He then led the congregation in the singing of it, which gave him the title of foresinger. After the verse had been sung he first read the ten commandments or the creed, and then a portion of the Scriptures. In the meantime the preacher had ascended the pulpit, a verse was again sung and the Voorleezer went to his seat in the pew set apart for the consistory. When the sermon, which usually lasted an hour and a half, was half finished the minister announced a Psalm verse, the foresinger returned to his desk and led the singing, while the deacons went around with the "bell" to gather in the collections. At the close of the services the Voorleezer again led in singing and the minister dismissed the congregation with the benediction. 2d, during the week days, the Voorleezer taught the village school, and was at the same time catechiser, using in early days of Bergen a question book written by Domine Johannis Megapolensis of Nieu Amsterdam. If there was no minister the Voorleezer took the place of a local pastor in all respects except baptizing children and administering the Lord's Supper. Not being allowed to ascend the pulpit he read sermons from his desk. (Among items charged in the Deacons Accounts were several books of sermons.) On Sunday mornings he held a service at Bergen and on alternate Sunday afternoons at some farm-house in Ahasimus and Communipaw. An hour-glass stood on the reader's desk and when the sand had run from the upper into the lower hollow he was to suspend services and dismiss the congregation.