volume iii, note 123.--ED.

[037] New Albany, founded in 1813, is just below Louisville, in Floyd County, Indiana.--ED.

[038] Corn Island was the site of the first settlement at Louisville. George Rogers Clark built a fort on the island in the spring of 1778, to protect his supplies. The twenty families who had followed him to Kentucky established themselves at the lower end, where the land was most elevated, and during the summer raised the crop of corn from which it is said the island derived its name. It stood just above the present Louisville-Albany bridge, in the elbow of the stream; in Clark's time it had an area of at least seven acres, but it has now been almost entirely obliterated both by the erosion of the stream and the operations of a neighboring cement mill which has used the island as a quarry.--ED.

[039] Jeffersonville, laid out in 1802, is opposite Louisville, in Clark County, Indiana.--ED.

[040] The same name is applied locally to the hills which extend nearly fifty miles to the northward of the river.--ED.

[041] Volney.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ Constantin François Chassebœuf Boisgirais, Comte de Volney, the French traveller and author, member of the brilliant group which included Holbach, Madame Helvetius, Voltaire, and the encyclopædists, the correspondent of Franklin and the friend of Bonaparte, travelled extensively in the interior of America during the years 1795 to 1799, and after his return to France published an account of his observations under the title, _Tableau du Climat et du Sol des Etats-Unis d'Amérique_ (Paris, 1803). A translation was published in Philadelphia the succeeding year.

[042] The Indiana coal fields are now known to embrace an area of about seven thousand square miles, chiefly in the southwest quarter of the state.--ED.

{29} CHAPTER II

The Ohio below the Rapids at Louisville--Ascent of the Mississippi from the mouth of the Ohio to St. Louis.[043]

Our small boat descended over the rapids without injury; and having taken on board some wood near New Albany, we proceeded on our voyage, with a pressure of steam equalling one hundred pounds to the square inch, upon all parts of the engine exposed to its immediate operation. This enabled us to descend, at the rate of ten miles per hour. A small island in the Ohio, about twenty-three miles below the rapids, is called Flint Island, from the great numbers of fragments of flints, broken arrow points, and various instruments of stone, heretofore used by the Indians, which are found there on turning up the soil. This island has probably been the favourite residence of some tribe, particularly expert in the manufacture of those rude implements, with which the wants of the aboriginal Americans were supplied. The stone employed in these manufactures appears to have been, in most instances, that compact flint, which occurs in nodular masses, in the secondary limestones. In one instance we met with a triangular prism, of a very hard and compact aggregate of felspar, and hornblende, unlike any rock we have seen in the valley of the Mississippi. This prism was about five inches long, with faces of about {30} an inch in width, and was perforated, from end to end, forming a complete tube, with an orifice about half an inch in diameter, and smoothly polished, both within and without. We were never able to discover to what use this implement could have been applied; nor do we recollect to have met with accounts of any thing analogous to it, except, perhaps, those "tubes of a very hard stone" mentioned by the Jesuit Venegas, as used by the natives of California, in their treatment of the sick.[044] That it may have passed, by means of the intercourse of various tribes of Indians, from the primitive mountains of California to the rapids of the Ohio, is not, perhaps, improbable. Indirect methods of communication may have conveyed the productions of one part of the continent to another very remote from it. The savages of the Missouri receive an intoxicating bean from their neighbours on the south and west; these again must probably procure it from other tribes inhabiting, or occasionally visiting, the tropical regions.

In the Philadelphia museum are many Indian pipes of that red indurated clay, found only (as far as hitherto known) on the Pipe Stone branch of the Little Sioux river of the Missouri; one of these, however, was found on the banks of the Rio de la Plata, in South America: several were found in the territory now called New England, and in the north-eastern part of the continent.

On the 26th we passed the mouth of the Wabash, and arrived at Shawaneetown,[045] ten miles below. Near the mouth of the Wabash, an accident happened to the engine, which rendered it necessary for us to drift down, until we should arrive at some place where repairs might be made. Some of the gentlemen of the party determined to go on shore, and walk to Shawaneetown. In swimming across a creek, {31} three miles above that place, Lieutenant Graham dropped his rifle in the water, and having spent some time in attempts to recover it, did not arrive at Shawaneetown until after the boat had reached that place.

On the 27th, several of the party went out to hunt in the forests and swamps, north-west of Shawaneetown. At about four miles' distance from the Ohio, they arrived at the banks of a small pond, three miles long, and only three or four hundred yards wide. Here they killed a turkey; and some small birds. On the bank of the pond, was found a specimen of the Lake Erie tortoise,[046] depositing its eggs in the sand, at about twenty yards' distance from the water. It had made, with its feet, a hole in the sand, two inches in diameter and four inches in depth, enlarging towards the bottom to three inches. This species occurs frequently in the pools and stagnant waters along the Ohio. We first met with it near the rapids at Louisville. Among other birds, we noticed about Shawaneetown, the pileated woodpecker, the minute tern, numerous flocks of the psittacus caroliniensis, two broods of young wood duck, some gulls, and semipalmated sandpipers. The terns appear to be attracted hither by great numbers of a species of phryganea, with which we found the stomachs of some of them filled. The semipalmated sandpipers were in large flocks, and did not appear stationary.

We left Shawaneetown at twelve o'clock on the 28th, and stopped three miles below, to take in wood; then proceeding forward, at four P. M. we ran aground on a sand bar, seven miles above the "Cave Inn," or "House of Nature."[047] After much exertion, by means of anchors and poles, with the aid of the engine, and all the men, who were under the necessity of jumping into the river, we at length {32} succeeded in getting her off, and ran down to the cave, where we lay by for the night.

Early the next morning, we went to visit the cave, of the entrance to which two views were sketched by Mr. Seymour. It is a perpendicular fissure, extending about one hundred and sixty feet into the horizontal limestone cliffs, which here form the north bank of the river. At times of high water, the Ohio flows in, and fills the cave nearly to its roof. In this cave, it is said, great numbers of large bones were some time ago found, but we saw no remains of any thing of this kind. Impressions and casts of the shells of submarine animals are seen in the rocks, forming the sides of the cave, as in all the strata of compact limestone, in this region. The organic remains here, do not appear to be so numerous as those of the rocks at the falls, and at Cincinnati; and are much less distinct, and visible in the fracture; indeed the fracture generally exhibits to the eye no vestige of organic remains. It is upon the surface only, and more especially in such parts of it as are in a certain stage of decomposition, that they are at all to be distinguished.

As far as we could discover, they consist chiefly of the caryophyllæ, similar to the radiated species, so common at the falls of Ohio; of the encrinus, but of this our specimens were not so perfect as to enable us to determine the analogy. Numerous other remains were exhibited, but not sufficiently characterized to be referred to their proper places in the system. The top of the cliff, into which this fissure opens, is said to be the favourite haunt of great numbers of birds of prey. This is not improbable, as many hawks and birds of prey always choose high and inaccessible cliffs to build their nests in. We saw about the tops of these rocks, only one pair of hawks, which we took to be of the red-shouldered species, (falco lineatus,) but a heavy rain, which commenced soon after we had ascended, prevented {33} us from procuring a specimen. About the cave, we found some fragments of pottery, arrow points, and other articles of Indian manufacture.

Near Shawaneetown are extensive salt manufactories, at a place heretofore called United States' Saline, affording employment and a source of trade to a part of the inhabitants of that village. Common salt, with the nitrates of lime, potash, &c. occur in great plenty, in connexion with the horizontal limestones and sandstones on the Ohio. Of these we subjoin some account, from the mineralogical report of Mr. Jessup.[048]

On the 29th of May we passed the mouths of the Cumberland and Tennessee, the two largest rivers, tributary to the Ohio. At the mouth of the Cumberland is a little village called Smithland; where, for a considerable part of the year, such goods are deposited as are designed for Nashville and other places on the Cumberland.

The Cumberland and Tennessee rivers are, for many miles, nearly parallel in direction, and at no great distance apart. Between them are some low sandstone hills; but, we believe, no lofty range of mountains, as has been sometimes represented. About these hills, also, in the low ridges north of the Ohio, we found the sandstone, which appears to be the basis rock, often overlaid with extensive beds of a pudding-stone, wherein pebbles of white, yellow, and variously coloured quartz, are united in a cement highly tinged by oxide of iron; extensive fields of compact limestone also occur in the same connexion.

About half way between the mouth of the Cumberland and Tennessee, near the old deserted settlement originally called Smithland,[049] are several large catalpa trees. They do not, however, appear to be native; nor have we here, or elsewhere, been able to discover any confirmation of the opinion, that this tree is indigenous to any part of the United States.

It is here called _petalfra_, which, as well as catalpa, {34} the received appellation, may be a corruption from Catawba, the name of the tribe by whom, according to the suggestion of Mr. Nuttall, the tree may have been introduced. Following the directions of the Pittsburgh navigator,[050] we kept near the left shore, below the Cave Inn; by which means we again ran our boat aground, on a sand-bar, where we spent a considerable part of the night in the most laborious exertions. These were at length crowned with success; and having the boat once more afloat, we proceeded with greater caution.

On the 30th, we arrived at a point a little above the mouth of Cash river, where a town has been laid out, called America.[051] It is on the north bank of the Ohio, about eleven miles from the Mississippi, and occupies the first heights on the former, secure from the inundation of both these rivers (if we except a small area three and a half miles below, where there are three Indian mounds, situated on a tract containing about half an acre above high-water mark). The land on both sides of the Ohio, below this place, is subject to be overflowed to various depths, from six to fourteen feet in time of floods; and on the south side, the flat lands extend four or five miles above, separated from the high country by lakes and marshes. The aspect of the country, in and about the town, is rolling or moderately hilly, being the commencement of the high lands between the two rivers above mentioned; below it, however, the land is flat, having the character of the low bottoms of the Ohio. The growth is principally cotton-wood, sycamore, walnut, hickory, maple, oak, &c. The soil is first-rate, and well suited to the cultivation of all products common to a climate of 37 deg. N. lat. From the extensive flat, or bottom, in its neighbourhood, and the heavy growth of timber which here generally prevails, it is probable that the place will be unhealthy, till extensive clearings are made in its vicinity.

This position may be considered as the head of constant {35} navigation for the Mississippi. The Mississippi, from New Orleans to the Ohio, is navigable for boats of the largest size; and America may be considered as the head of constant as well as heavy navigation. Ice is seldom to be found in the Mississippi as low down as the mouth of the Ohio, and never in so large quantities as to oppose any serious obstruction to the navigation.

The navigation of the Ohio has a serious impediment about four and a half miles above the town, occasioned by a limestone bar extending across the river, called the Grand Chain. This bar is impassable in the lowest stage of the water, and will not admit boats of any considerable burden, except in the higher stages.

The Mississippi has, in like manner, two bars, called the Big and Little Chain, which appear to be a continuation of the same range of rocks as that in the Ohio, extending across the point of land situated between the two rivers. These bars are situated a little above the Tyawapatia Bottom, about thirty miles above the mouth of the Ohio, and in low water have but a moderate depth of water across them; which, added to the rapidity of the current, occasions a serious obstacle to the navigation.

Boats suited to the navigation of both rivers above the bars here specified, should be of inferior size; those for the Mississippi not exceeding one hundred tons burden, and those for the Ohio from fifty to seventy-five tons.

Any position on the Mississippi in the neighbourhood of the Ohio would be objectionable, for the following reasons:--First, The rapidity of the current, which renders it difficult to find a safe and commodious landing, there being no rocky-bound shore within thirty miles above and a far greater distance below the point. The Iron Banks,[052] seventeen miles below the mouth of the Ohio, have been thought by some an eligible position for the extensive business, {36} which, it is admitted by all, must centre in this neighbourhood. But at this place there is no safe landing; and besides, the banks are composed of layers of sand and clay alternating with each other, of an acclivity nearly perpendicular, and annually wearing away by the current of the river, which sets strongly against them. These banks are elevated about one hundred and thirty feet above the common level of the river, and are insurmountable, except by a circuitous route, leading from the river a considerable distance above and below them.

Second, There are no positions on the Mississippi, except the Iron and Chalk Banks, for a great distance below the Ohio, secure from inundation. The bottom directly opposite the mouth of the Ohio, on the west side of the Mississippi is elevated a little above high water; but as it is an alluvial shore, having no permanent foundation, and the banks often falling in, it affords no conveniences or security as a place of business.

Third, No places of anchorage for boats of heavy burden are to be found, except in the main channel of the river, where they would be exposed to drift-wood, great quantities of which are brought down in times of freshet; and when borne along with the rapid current of the river, occasion serious danger to boats lying in its way.

The town of America is almost entirely exempt from any of these objections;--although it has not a rocky foundation, (which may be said of most of the towns on the Ohio,) the current of the river is so gentle, that no such guard against the undermining and wasting away of the banks is required. In case of an excessive flood, or an unusual quantity of floating ice (which may possibly be apprehended in remarkably cold seasons), the mouth of Cash river, five miles below the town, is a harbour in which boats may lie in perfect security.[053]

We would not encourage the idea, that the site {37} now fixed upon as a town is exclusively the point where business is to be done; but that the town will eventually extend along on that side of the river about four miles, to the Big Chain above described.

In view of the great extent of inland navigation centring at this place, and the incalculable amount of products to be realized, at no distant period, from the cultivation of the rich vallies and fertile plains of the west, a great proportion of which must find a market here, no doubt can be entertained that it will eventually become a place of as great wealth and importance as almost any in the United States.

In the afternoon of the 30th we arrived at the mouth of the Ohio.

This beautiful river has a course of one thousand and thirty-three miles, through a country surpassed in fertility of soil by none in the United States. Except in high floods, its water is transparent, its current gentle, and nearly uniform. For more than half of its course its banks are high, and its bed gravelly. With the exception of about two miles at the rapids, at Louisville, it has sufficient depth of water, for a part of the year, to float vessels of 300 tons burthen to Cincinnati. The country which it washes may, with propriety, be considered under two divisions. The first, extending from its head at Pittsburgh to the little town of Rockport,[054] about 150 miles below the falls or rapids at Louisville, is hilly. This district forms a portion of one of the sides of that great formation of secondary rocks, which occupies the basin of the Mississippi and its tributaries. This formation, like others of the same period, is rough, with small elevations, which are most considerable on its borders, and diminish in proportion as we approach nearer its central parts.

Compact limestone, and sandstone of several varieties, are the rocks which invariably occur along that portion of the Ohio we are now considering. Sandstone of a light gray or ashen colour, of a compact {38} texture, an argillaceous cement, and a slaty or lamellated structure, is the most abundant, and occupies the lowest points which we have hitherto been able to examine. This rock frequently contains alternating beds of coal, bituminous shale, and its accompanying minerals. The beds of compact limestone, which occur in this region, usually rest upon the sandstone just mentioned. Considered as a stratum, its distribution is the reverse of that of the sandstone. It occupies the central and least elevated portions of the formation; and on the borders where the sandstone is most abundant, the limestone is of less extent and of more uncommon occurrence. These remarks are applicable to the hilly district on the upper portion of the Ohio river. From Pittsburgh to Cincinnati, the prospect from the river is that of hills of moderate elevation, sometimes rocky and abrupt, but often sufficiently gradual in their ascent to admit of cultivation to their summits. Their character, as to extent, direction, &c. seems to be determined by the number, direction, and magnitude of the streams which traverse them. They are the remains of what was formerly a continuous and nearly horizontal stratum, with a large deposit of superincumbent soil, which the flowing of water, during the lapse of ages, has channelled and excavated to its present form. These hills diminish in altitude as you approach the falls from above; there they again rise to a height nearly equal to what they attain at the head of the river, and from thence gradually diminish, until they disappear, a little above the confluence of the Ohio and Green[055] rivers. Here commences the low country, which extends west to the Mississippi. It is characterized by the great extent of the river alluvion, the increased width and diminished velocity of the stream. The river banks are low, but thickly wooded with sycamore, cotton-wood, river maple, the planera aquatica, cypress, &c. The river hills, which terminate the alluvial district, {39} are distant and low; and it often happens that the surface descends on both sides, from the immediate banks of the river to these hills. Hence, when the waters of the river are sufficiently swollen to flow over its banks, they inundate extensive tracts; from which they cannot return to the channel of the river, and are left stagnant during the summer months, poisoning the atmosphere with noxious exhalations. Many of these inundated tracts have a soil of uncommon fertility, which it is probable will hereafter be recovered from the dominion of the river by dikes or levees.

The beach or sloping part of the immediate bank of the Ohio, throughout its whole extent, is of rather gradual ascent, and covered with timber a considerable distance below high-water mark. The average rapidity of the current of the Ohio is about two and a half miles per hour, and the descent of its surface nine inches per mile, as estimated by Dr. Drake of Cincinnati. The annual inundations happen in the spring. The range between extreme high and low water, in the upper part of the river, is more than 60 feet; but below, where it is not confined by high banks, it is much less.

About the falls of Ohio, the cane, (myegia macrosperma of Persoon,) begins to be seen, and increases in quantity thence westward to the Mississippi. The "Cave Inn Rock," or "House of Nature," which we have before mentioned, is an immense cavern penetrating horizontally into a stratum of compact limestone, which forms the river bank for some distance above Golconda in Illinois. Its entrance is a large and regular arch, placed immediately on the brink of the river, and a similar form is preserved in some degree through its whole extent. The Battery Rock is a high mural precipice of the same stratum, running in a straight line, and forming the northern bank of the river which washes its base. The face of this precipice is smooth and naked, and it is surmounted {40} by a heavy growth of timber. This limestone is compact, entirely horizontal in its position, and filled with organic remains. It is traversed by veins containing sulphuret of lead; and at several places near Golconda, this is accompanied by fluat of lime, in beautiful yellow and violet-coloured crystals. Fluat of lime is also found disseminated in small and irregular masses throughout the rock. At Golconda, six miles below the cave, a coarse gray flinty sandstone is found, extending some distance to the west. This rock forms broad hills on the Kentucky side, between the Cumberland and Tennessee rivers; where it abounds in iron ore of several kinds. Perhaps these hills ought to be considered as a spur from the Cumberland hills. At the mouth of the Tennessee river, is a locality of the columnar argillaceous oxide of iron, which rises from the surface in pyramidal and columnar masses, somewhat resembling the cypress knees.

An extensive tract of land between the Tennessee and Mississippi rivers, included in the recent purchase from the Cherokees,[056] is rocky and broken, abounding in ores of iron and lead, and probably some other minerals. We have seen a specimen of sulphuret of antimony, in possession of an inhabitant, who being a sort of alchymist, greatly delighting in mystery, thought it imprudent to reveal the secret of its particular locality. It is to be hoped, future and more minute examinations than we had the opportunity of making, may hereafter detect valuable mineral depositions in this tract.

The confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, is in latitude 37° 22′ 9″ north, according to the observations of Mr. Ellicott, and in longitude 88° 50′ 42″ west, from Greenwich.[057] The lands about the junction of these two great rivers are low, consisting of recent alluvion, and covered with dense forests. At the time of our journey, the spring floods having subsided in the Ohio, this quiet and gentle river {41} seemed to be at once swallowed up, and lost in the rapid and turbulent current of the Mississippi. Floods of the Mississippi, happening when the Ohio is low, occasion a reflux of the waters of the latter, perceptible at Fort Massac, more than thirty miles above. It is also asserted, that the floods in the Ohio occasion a retardation in the current of the Mississippi, as far up as the Little Chain, ten miles below Cape Girardeau.[058] The navigation of the Mississippi above the mouth of the Ohio, also that of the Ohio, is usually obstructed for a part of the winter by large masses of floating ice. The boatmen observe that soon after the ice from the Ohio enters the Mississippi, it becomes so much heavier by arresting the sands, always mixed with the waters of that river, that it soon sinks to the bottom. After ascending the Mississippi about two miles, we came to an anchor, and went on shore on the eastern side. The forests here are deep and gloomy, swarming with innumerable mosquitoes, and the ground overgrown with enormous nettles. There is no point near the confluence of the Ohio and Mississippi, from which a distant prospect can be had. Standing in view of the junction of these magnificent rivers, meeting almost from opposite extremities of the continent, and each impressed with the peculiar character of the regions from which it descends, we seem to imagine ourselves capable of comprehending at one view all that vast region between the summits of the Alleghanies and of the Rocky Mountains, and feel a degree of impatience at finding all our prospects limited by an inconsiderable extent of low muddy bottom lands, and the unrelieved, unvaried, gloom of the forest.

Finding it necessary to renew the packing of the piston in the steam-engine, which operation would require some time, most of the gentlemen of the {42} party were dispersed on shore in pursuit of their respective objects, or engaged in hunting. Deer, turkeys, and beaver are still found in plenty in the low grounds, along both sides of the Mississippi; but the annoyance of the mosquitoes and nettles preventing the necessary caution and silence in approaching the haunts of these animals, our hunting was without success.

We were gratified to observe many interesting plants, and among them several of the beautiful family of the orchidæ,[059] particularly the orchis spectabile, so common in the mountainous parts of New England.

The progress of our boat against the heavy current of the Mississippi, was of necessity somewhat slow. Steam-boats in ascending are kept as near the shore as the depth of water will admit; and ours often approached so closely as to give such of the party as wished, an opportunity to jump on shore. On the first of June, several gentlemen of the party went on shore, six miles below the settlement of Tyawapatia bottom, and walked up to that place through the woods. They passed several Indian encampments, which appeared to have been recently tenanted. Under one of the wigwams they saw pieces of honey-comb, and several sharpened sticks, that had been used to roast meat upon: on a small tree near by was suspended the lower jaw-bone of a bear. Soon after leaving these they came to another similar camp, where they found a Shawanee Indian and his squaw, with four children, the youngest lashed to a piece of board, and leaned against a tree.

The Indian had recently killed a deer, which they purchased of him for one dollar and fifty cents--one-third more than is usually paid to white hunters. They afterwards met with another encampment, where were several families. These Indians have very little acquaintance with the English language, and appeared reluctant to use the few words they {43} knew. The squaws wore great numbers of trinkets, such as silver arm-bands and large earrings. Some of the boys had pieces of lead tied in various parts of the hair. They were encamped near the Mississippi, for the purpose of hunting on the islands. Their village is on Apple Creek, ten miles from Cape Girardeau.

June 2d. As it was only ten miles to Cape Girardeau, and the progress of the boat extremely tedious, several of the party, taking a small supply of provisions, went on shore, intending to walk to that place.

Above the settlement of Tyawapatia, and near Cape à la Bruche,[060] is a ledge of rocks, stretching across the Mississippi, in a direct line, and in low water forming a serious obstacle to the navigation. These rocks are of limestone, and mark the commencement of the hilly country on the Mississippi. Here the landscape begins to have something of the charm of distant perspective. We seem released from the imprisonment of the deep monotonous forest, and can occasionally overlook the broad hills of Apple Creek, and the Au Vaise,[061] or Muddy river of Illinois, diversified with a few scattered plantations, and some small natural meadows.

About five miles above Cape Girardeau we found the steam-boat Jefferson, destined for the Missouri. She had been detained some time waiting for castings which were on board the Western Engineer. Several other steam-boats, with stores for the troops about to ascend the Missouri, had entered that river, and were waiting to be overtaken by the Jefferson and the Calhoun, which last we had left at the rapids of the Ohio. On the 3d of June we passed that insular rock in the middle of the Mississippi, called the Grand Tower.[062] It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, and two hundred and fifty in diameter. Between it and the right shore is a {44} channel of about one hundred and fifty yards in width, with a deep and rapid current.

In the summer of 1673, Father Marquette and M. Joliet descended the Mississippi, probably as far as the mouth of the Arkansa. Their narrative contains sufficient evidence that they passed the mouth of the Missouri, the Grand Tower, the mouth of the Ohio, &c. As their work may not be easily accessible to many of our readers, we subjoin, in a note, an interesting passage, in which these objects are mentioned.[063]

The strata of sandstone containing the extensive beds of coal which have been explored, about the Muddy river of Illinois, are here divided transversely by the bed of the Mississippi. The Grand Tower, the precipice opposite the mouth of the Obrazo,[064] containing the singular cavity called the Devil's Oven, the Cornice Rock, and other remarkable cliffs, are monuments indicating the great extent to which the Mississippi has channelled its bed in these strata of horizontal sandstone.

The Grand Tower, from its form and situation, strongly suggests the idea of a work of art. It is not impossible that a bridge may be constructed here, for which this rock shall serve as a pier. The shores, on both sides, are of substantial and permanent rocks, which undoubtedly extend across, forming the bed of the river. It is probable, however, that the ledge of rocks called the Two Chains, extending down to Cape à la Bruche, presents greater facilities for the construction of a bridge than this point, as the high lands there approach nearer the river, and are less broken than in the neighbourhood of the Grand Tower. The Ohio would also admit of a bridge at the chains, which appear to be a continuation of the range of rocks here mentioned, crossing that river fifteen miles above its confluence with the Mississippi. We look forward to the time when these great works will be completed.

{45} Compact and sparry limestones are frequent in this region; but all the rocks seem to be acted upon with great rapidity by currents of water. The country on the east side of the Mississippi, back of Fort Chartres, and about the river St. Mary, is much broken by sink holes, having the form of a funnel, and occasioned, probably, by the action of subterraneous streams of water finding their way through the friable sandstones, which underlay the deep and fertile soils in those places. We passed in succession the mouths of the river St. Mary, opposite to which is the fine settlement of the Bois Broule bottoms; the Ocoa, or Kaskaskia river; the St. Lora, a handsome stream, from the west; and the Gabaree Creek, on which stands the old French town of St. Genevieve.[065] The navigation of the Mississippi, above the mouth of the Ohio, is at all times difficult. The current is considerably accelerated by the descent of the river over the rocky traverses which cross its bed. At times of low water, innumerable sand-bars occur in various parts of the channel, rendering the navigation extremely precarious.

A little below the mouth of the Kaskaskia, is a creek called the Saline, entering on the west side. A grant of a tract of land, one league square, was here made by the Spanish government, in favour of a Frenchman named Pegreau, the founder of the deserted town called New Bourbon.[066] The tract included a valuable brine spring, near the mouth of the creek. The proprietor built a house near the bank of the Mississippi, where he resided for some time, and carried on a manufacture of salt; but having occasion to go to France, he rented his works to a man, who for want of funds, or for some other reason, failed to keep them in operation. After the transfer of Louisiana to the United States' Government, this grant, among others, became an object of speculation; and advantage being taken of Pegreau's absence, the worthless tenant was instigated {46} to prosecute his landlord for breach of contract, and by a legal process recovered damages to the amount of nine thousand dollars, for the disbursement of which the property was sold, and fell into the hands of the present proprietors.

At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east bank of the Mississippi, a town has been recently commenced, called Portland. The high lands approach here to the brink of the river, affording an elevated and advantageous site. The landing is said to be good; and there is reason to expect that Portland will soon rival the old town of Kaskaskia, the present seat of a great portion of the mercantile business in this part of Illinois.[067]

On the 5th the wind blew from the south-east, and with the aid of sails, we were enabled to ascend the river with considerable rapidity. As we were proceeding briskly forward, our boat struck upon one of those concealed trunks of trees so frequent in the Mississippi, and soon afterwards we discovered that a leak had occurred, which made it necessary for us to lie by. By the constant use of the pumps during the remainder of the day, and the following night, we were able to prevent the water from gaining further upon us; and the next day, having discovered the leak, we raised the stern of the boat, by means of a pair of shears, and succeeded in repairing the injury.

On the beach, opposite the place where we lay by for these repairs, was a large flock of pelicans, which remained in sight for several hours. We had met with some wild geese; and a swan, which we saw was unable to fly, having at that time cast its feathers. The yellow-breasted chat, chuck-wills-widow, the falco haliatus, the kingfisher, bank swallow, and numerous other birds, occurred.

At the mouth of the Kaskaskia river, on the east side of the Mississippi, commences the celebrated valley called the American Bottom, extending along {47} the eastern bank of the river last mentioned to the Piasa hills, four miles above the mouth of the Missouri. It is several miles in width, and has a soil of astonishing fertility, consisting of comparatively recent depositions from the river. It has all the disadvantages usually attending tracts of recent river alluvion, the most valuable parts of it being liable to be swept away by the current of the Mississippi, and its surface descending from the brink of the river to the stagnant pools and lagoons, at the outskirts of the valley. But the inexhaustible fertility of its soil makes amends for the insalubrity of the air, and the inconveniences of a flat and marshy situation; and this valley is undoubtedly destined to become one of the most populous parts of America. We were formerly shown here a field that had been cultivated, without manure, one hundred years in succession, and which, when we saw it (in August, 1819) was covered with a very luxuriant growth of corn.

The town of Kaskaskia, the villages of Prairie de Roches, Kahokia, Prairie du Pont, Harrisonville, and Fort Chartres, are situate in this tract. Some of them are in a flourishing condition. Fort Chartres, which was built by the French government, at the expense of one million and a half of dollars, stood near the bank of the river, about twenty miles from Kaskaskia. Not long after they were erected, a part of the works were undermined by the washing of the river; since which time the whole has been suffered to remain in ruins, which are now one-fourth of a mile distant from the river.[068]

The country west of the Mississippi, opposite the American Bottom, is of a very different character. The high lands approach the river, presenting abrupt declivities, prominent points, and in many places perpendicular precipices from one to two hundred {48} feet high, frowning over the brink of the river. One of the most remarkable of these is known by the name of the Cornice Rock. It bounds a narrow arm of the river, which has generally sufficient water to admit the passage of boats. The rock extends nearly in a straight line, having a front of about four hundred yards, the brow of the precipice at some points impending over the channel through which boats pass. The rock rises above, to the height of fifty or sixty feet, smoothly rounded by the attrition of the water, which never rising to the upper part of the precipice, leaves that to project in the form of a cornice. Though the lands on the west side of the Mississippi are less fertile than those of the American Bottom, they are of great value, and have long been objects of scandalous speculation.

Among a variety of stratagems, practised in this part of the country to obtain titles to lands, was one which will be best explained by the following anecdote, related to us by a respectable citizen of St. Genevieve. Preparatory to taking possession of Louisiana in 1805, the legislature passed a law, authorising a claim to one section of land, in favour of any person who should have actually made _improvements_, in any part of the same, previous to the year 1804. Commissioners were appointed to settle all claims of this description; more commonly known by the name of improvement rights. A person, somewhere in the county of Cape Girardeau, being desirous of establishing a claim of this kind to a tract of land, adopted the following method:--The time having expired for the establishment of a right, agreeably to the spirit of the law, he took with him two witnesses to the favourite spot, on which he wished to establish his claim, and in their presence marked two trees, standing on opposite sides of a spring; one with the figures 1803, the other 1804, and placed a stalk of growing corn in the spring. He then brought the witnesses before the commissioners, who upon their {49} declaration, that they had seen corn growing at the place specified, in the spring between 1803 and 1804, admitted the claim of the applicant, and gave him a title to the land. In the old district of Cape Girardeau, as in other parts of Louisiana, the difficulty of establishing indisputable titles to the lands, arising out of the great number of Spanish grants, pre-emption, and improvement claims, has greatly retarded the settlement of the country.[069] Establishments were made here more than one hundred and fifty years since; yet the features of the country are little changed, retaining the rudeness and gloominess of the original forest.[070]

At five o'clock, on the afternoon of the sixth, we passed the Platteen rock, a perpendicular precipice, not unlike the Cornice rock, near the mouth of a creek of the same name. Along the base of this cliff, we found the water three and sometimes four fathoms deep. In the evening we arrived at Herculaneum, a small village on the west side of the Mississippi, depending principally upon the lead mines for its business.[071]

Here are three shot manufactories, all of them built at the summits of perpendicular precipices; by which means, the expense of erecting high towers has been avoided. Thirty or forty miles to the south-west of Herculaneum, commences the region of the lead mines, which, though not yet satisfactorily explored, is known to extend for many miles through the hilly country, at the sources of the Merameg, the St. Francis, and the other small rivers, rising in the angle between the Mississippi and Missouri, below the mouth of the latter river.

Soon after the cession of Louisiana to the United States, particular care was taken to have all claims to land investigated and registered. Some few {50} may have been omitted, which may be hereafter revived, but these cannot be numerous. In all the recent sales of public lands in the western states and territories, liberal reservations have been made for the encouragement of learning. We subjoin some particulars, extracted from a communication of the commissioner of public lands. From this statement, it will be easy to form an idea of the liberal provision made by government, for the future support of schools and colleges. It is probable, similar grants will be made to the Eastern States.[072]

On the 7th, after taking in wood at Herculaneum, we moved up the river; but had scarcely passed the mouth of the Merameg,[073] when we found ourselves unable to stem the heavy current of the Mississippi, on account of the great quantities of mud that had accumulated in the boilers, and prevented our raising the requisite pressure of steam. While we were lying at anchor, to afford the steam engineer an opportunity to clean the boilers, some gentlemen of the party returned along shore to the Merameg, a beautiful river, whose limpid and transparent waters present a striking contrast to the yellow and turbid Mississippi. They were fortunate in meeting with many interesting objects, and, among others, an undescribed mus, which has received, from Mr. Ord, the name of floridanus.[074] Upon the specimen, which was a male, was a dilated, glabrous, ventral line, 2-1/4 inches long. This species is well known in some districts, under the name of large hairy-tailed rat, and is by no means rare in Florida. It is as large as the ordinary stature of the Norway rat, and is equally troublesome. The contents of its stomach were entirely vegetable, consisting of the green bark of trees, and the young shoots of plants. Their nests are large, and are composed of a great quantity of brush. Dr. Baldwin had rarely been able to join in the excursions on shore. Plants were, however, collected and brought to him on board the boat, {51} where he spent much of his time in the examination of such as were interesting or new.[075]

A few rods above our anchoring ground, were two graves, supposed to be those of Indians. One of them was quite recent, and both were covered with heaps of loose stones, probably designed as monuments, and to protect the graves from the ravages of wolves or other animals. The eighth of June brought us to the small village of Vide Poche,[076] and the following day to St. Louis, where our arrival was noticed by a salute from a six-pounder on the bank of the river, and the discharge of ordnance on board several of the steam-boats lying in front of the town.

FOOTNOTES:

[043] Observations were made, at Shippingsport, to ascertain the rate of going of our chronometer, the latitude of the place, and for other purposes; according to these, the Falls are in 38° 15′ 23″ N.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ The latitude is 38° 15′ 8″.

[044] Page 108.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ Miguel Venegas, a native of Mexico, was born in 1680, joined the Jesuit order in 1700, and after several years' service as professor of Latin, rhetoric, and theology, went out as a missionary to the Indians. His chief work was, _Noticia de la California y su Conquista temporal y espiritual hasta el tiempo presente_ (Madrid, 3 vols., 1757). Its importance as a contemporary account of the native tribes and mission stations of California is attested by the fact that translations were promptly made into English, French, and Dutch. The English edition is entitled _Natural and Civil History of California_ (London, 2 vols., 1759).

[045] For historical importance of the Wabash River and origin of the name, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note 107; for sketch of the site of Shawneetown, see _ibid._, note 108.--ED.

[046] Testudo geographica of Leseuer.--JAMES.

[047] Usually called Cave-in-Rock. For additional facts relative to its history, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 180.--ED.

[048] _Nitrate of Potash._--This salt occurs in most of the caves in the western states and territories. It is found in efflorescences and incrustations frequently combined with nitrate of lime. Its colour is grayish or yellowish white. The manufacture of nitre, in the numerous caves in Kentucky, is conducted as follows: The earths containing the nitrates of lime and potash are lixiviated; the lixivium is afterwards passed through the ashes of wood, by the alkali of which the nitrate of lime is decomposed. If the earths, after having been lixiviated, are replaced in the caves, they again become impregnated with the same salts.

One bushel of earth commonly yields from one to four pounds of nitre. The process by which nature supplies the consumption of this important article has not yet been discovered.

_Muriate of Soda._--In the United States, common salt has been usually found in solution combined with the sulphates of lime, magnesia, and soda, and with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. The springs yielding the greatest quantity of salt, are those of the Kenhawa, and Little Sandy rivers, the United States' Salines near Shawaneetown, Illinois, Boon's Saline, near Franklin, Missouri, and Lockhart's on the Le Mine river.

The Kenhawa salt-works supply about thirty thousand bushels of salt per annum. The rocks about these springs belong to the secondary formation, and are limestone, variegated sandstone, and bituminous shale: we were informed that two hundred and fifty gallons of this water yield one bushel of salt. At the Salines of the Little Sandy, ten thousand bushels are manufactured yearly. The waters, like those of the Kenhawa, hold in solution muriate and sulphate of soda, sulphate of lime, and probably a small portion of sulphate of magnesia. Limestone and sandstone are the only rocks to be met with in the neighbourhood. The United States' salines, near Shawaneetown, produce at present about a hundred and thirty thousand bushels of salt per annum; they formerly yielded more than two hundred thousand in the same time. There are now seven furnaces in operation: the water is procured from three wells, two of which are rented by Major I. Taylor. At these works the salt water formerly issued from the earth at the surface. A well of sixteen feet deep brought the workmen to a spring, which now discharges sixteen gallons of water per minute. Two hundred and fifty gallons yield fifty pounds of salt. About one thousand yards to the east of this well is a basin, or hollow, one hundred and thirty-five feet in diameter. The soil in and about it is intimately blended with fragments of earthen ware.

In the middle of this basin a well has been sunk, which affords a more concentrated brine than that before mentioned; one hundred and ten gallons yielding fifty pounds of salt.

In digging this well, the first fourteen feet was through a light earth mixed with ashes and fragments of earthen ware: the remaining fourteen through a bed of clay, deeply coloured with oxyde of iron, and containing fragments of pottery. The clay has something the appearance of having been subjected to the action of fire. At the eastern side of the basin appears to have been a drain for the purpose of conveying away the superabundant water. In this drain, about four feet below the surface of the earth, is a layer of charcoal about six inches deep. The stones in the vicinity appear as if they had been burnt. Four miles west of this point, a well has been sunk sixty feet through the following beds.

First—— twenty feet of tenacious blue clay, at the bottom of which they came to a small spring of salt water.

Second—— another bed of clay, of a similar character, twenty-five feet thick.

Third—— a bed of quicksand, about ten feet deep; in which they met with a large vein of salt water.

Bones of the mammoth, and other animals, were found both in the clay and sand. The original reservation at these salines comprised ninety-two thousand one hundred and sixty acres of woodland, and was transferred from the United States to the state of Illinois, at the time of the admission of the latter into the union. The rents amount to ten thousand dollars per annum.

_Nitrate of Lime_ is found in the calcareous caverns of Kentucky, accompanying nitrate of potash, with which it is intimately blended in the earth, on the floors of the caves: it is also sometimes found in delicate accicular crystals, shooting up from the walls and floors of the caverns.--JAMES.

[049] Smithland is now the seat of Livingston County. The deserted settlement three miles below the mouth of Cumberland River was laid out about 1800 by one Coxe; upon the failure of his plans, the site was converted into a farm.--ED.

[050] See Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 43.--ED.

[051] The correct name of this stream is Cache River. The French explorers applied the term "cache" (hiding-place) to many streams, probably because of articles hidden there by them. This particular stream is about thirty miles long, being navigable for small boats about a third of the distance.

The town of America was laid off in 1818, with the expectation that it would attain considerable size. For two or three years it grew rapidly; then low water uncovered a long bar which excluded steamers from the landing, whereupon the town declined and practically disappeared, the site now being occupied by but one or two small dwellings.--ED.

[052] For a description of the Iron Banks, see Nuttall's _Journal_, in our volume xiii, note 54.--ED.

[053] Although the range from extreme high to extreme low water amounts to sixty feet perpendicular, in many parts of the Ohio, it does not exceed twenty feet at this place, owing to the width to which the Ohio spreads in this neighbourhood, when the river is high. This may be considered a circumstance much in favour of the place, when compared with the disadvantages most other positions on the Ohio labour under, from inundation in high water, and the difficulty of unlading in low.--JAMES.

[054] Rockport is the seat of Spencer County, Indiana, one hundred and forty miles below Louisville, measured on the river's course.--ED.

[055] Green River enters the Ohio from the Kentucky side, thirty-five miles below Rockport.--ED.

[056] On Cherokee purchase, see Cuming's _Tour_, in volume iv, this series, note 190.--ED.

[057] Latitude 36° 59′ 47.99″; longitude, 89° 9′ 31.2″.--ED.

[058] Schultz's Travels, vol. 2. p. 92.--JAMES.

[059] The cymbidium hiemale of Willdenow, which has been placed by Mr. Nuttall under the genus corallorhiza of Haller, occurs in the fertile soils of the Mississippi, with two radical leaves, as described by the early authors. Mr. N.'s amended description is therefore only applicable to the plant as it occurs in the eastern states, where it is commonly found to have but a single leaf.--JAMES.

[060] Tyawapatia (Tywappity, Tiwappaty) Bottom was the name formerly applied to the flood plain on the Missouri side, in the present Scott County. It extended from the mouth of the Ohio to Commerce, near the site of which was the settlement referred to. Americans began to enter the bottom as early as 1798, and in 1823 the town of Commerce was laid out on the site of a trading post already twenty years old.

The name Cape à la Bruche is probably a corruption of Cape à la Broche (spit-like). The point was also called Cape La Croix (The Cross), which name alone survives. It is about six miles below Cape Girardeau, on the same side of the river.--ED.

[061] The name Au Vaise is a corruption of Rivière au Vase (Muddy River); the present name is Big Muddy. It enters the Mississippi from the northeast, at the northwest corner of Union County, Illinois, and boats ascend forty or fifty miles.--ED.

[062] Opposite the town of the same name, in Jackson County, Illinois.--ED.

[063] They left the Illinois about the middle of June. Of the rocky cliffs below the confluence of that river, Father Marquette speaks as follows: "Among the rocks I have mentioned, we found one very high and steep, and saw two monsters painted upon it, which are so hideous that we were frightened at first sight, and the boldest savages dare not fix their eyes upon them. They are drawn as big as a calf, with two horns like a wild-goat. Their looks are terrible, though their face has something of human figure in it. Their eyes are red, their beard is like that of a tiger, and their body is covered with scales. Their tail is so long that it goes over their heads, and then turns between their fore-legs under the belly, ending like a fish-tail. There are but three colours, viz. red, green, and black; but those monsters are so well drawn that I cannot believe the savages did it; and the rock whereon they are painted is so steep that it is a wonder to me how it was possible to draw those figures: but to know to what purpose they were made is as great a mystery. Whatever it be, our best painters would hardly do better.

"As we fell down the river, following the gentle stream of the waters, and discoursing upon those monsters, we heard a great noise of waters, and saw several small pieces of timber, and small floating islands, which were huddled down the river _Pekitanoni_. The waters of this stream (the Missouri) are so muddy, because of the violence of its stream, that it is impossible to drink of it; and they spoil the clearness of the Mississippi, and make its navigation very dangerous in this place. This river runs from the north-west; and I hope to discover, in following its channel to its source, some other river that discharges itself into the _Mar Marvejo_, or the _Caliphornian Gulf_.

"About twenty leagues lower than the Pekitanoni, we met another river, called the Ouabouskigon; but before we arrived there, we passed through a most formidable place to the savages, who believe that a _manito_ or devil resides in that place, to deliver such as are so bold as to come near it. This terrible _manito_ proves to be nothing but some rocks in a turning of the river, about thirty feet high, against which the stream runs with great violence." This is probably the Grand Tower. "The river _Ouabouskigon_ (Ohio) comes from the eastward. The _Chuoanous_ (Shawneese) inhabit its banks; and are so numerous, that I have been informed there are thirty-eight villages of that nation situated on this river."--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ James dates the start too early, for by Marquette's account, it was near the end of June ("sur la fin de Juin"); nor is James's version quite accurate. Compare the French of Marquette's account in _Jesuit Relations_, lix, p. 138.

[064] Spelled also Brazos and Brazeau--a Perry County (Missouri) tributary of the Mississippi.--ED.

[065] The Bois Broulé (Burnt Wood) Bottoms lie chiefly in Perry County, Missouri. The tract is about eighteen miles long and from four to six wide.

For Kaskaskia River and settlement, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 132.

For Ste. Geneviève, see Cuming's _Tour_, in our volume iv, note 174.--ED.

[066] Among the nobles who fled from France during the Revolution was the father of Charles Dehault Delassus, last governor of Upper Louisiana under Spanish domination. The elder Delassus came to Ste. Geneviève, and was placed in command of a post established for him on a bluff overlooking the river, two or three miles below the town; this post was named New Bourbon (La Nouvelle Bourbon), in honor of the fallen French dynasty. The town which grew up around it was still in existence in 1812.--ED.

[067] Portland was one of many towns laid out along the Mississippi by speculators who hoped that important cities would arise on the sites chosen. This particular venture was undertaken by a company organized in Cincinnati in 1819; but inhabitants failed to come, and the buildings erected by the promoters fell into ruins. The site was near the present town of Chester; an Illinois state penitentiary now stands on the spot.--ED.

[068] It is stated by Mr. Schultz that Fort Chartres, which was originally built one-fourth of a mile from the river, was undermined in 1808. Vol. 2, p. 37.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ For Kaskaskia, Prairie du Rocher, Cahokia, and Fort Chartres, see André Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, notes 132, 133, 135, 136.

Prairie du Pont, one mile south of Cahokia, grew up about a water-mill built in 1754 on a creek of that name, by missionaries of St. Sulpice.

Harrisonville dates from the era of American domination. It was laid out in 1808, and named for William Henry Harrison, the governor of Indiana Territory, which then included Illinois. It was, in early days, the county town.

[069] Ample information on the subject of land titles, is contained in Stoddart's Sketches of Louisiana, pages 243-267.--JAMES.

[070] The statement here is not accurate. Marquette's descent of the Mississippi was just one hundred and fifty years earlier, and the French settlements in Illinois date from the beginning of the eighteenth century; while Ste. Geneviève, the first in Missouri, was not established before 1732.--ED.

[071] Herculaneum, laid out in 1808, was another of the now extinct river towns. It was thirty miles below St. Louis, and was at one time seat of Jefferson County.--ED.

[072] A _township_ is a square, whose sides (limited by true meridians and parallels to the equator) are each 6 miles in length: area 36 square miles, or _sections_, each containing 640 acres. Each township contains 23,040 acres. A _quarter-section_ is a square whose sides (bounded by meridians and parallels), are each half a mile, and contain 160 acres. The corners of each section are distinctly marked by the United States' deputy-surveyors. The _sections_ are numbered from 1 to 36, beginning at the N. E. corner of the township, and going from right to left, to the N. W. corner; and then returning from left to right to the east boundary of the township, and so on.

The act of February 22. 1817, authorizes the sale, in _half quarter_ sections, or (80 acres) of the sections 2, 5, 20, 23, 30, 33, of each township. The subdivision of the quarter section is made by true meridians.

The _section_ No. 16. in every township, is by law reserved for the support of schools; the S. E. corner of that section is the centre of each township. More than 60 million acres of United States' land, have already been surveyed:--1/36 of 60 millions is 1,666,666 acres, reserved by law for the support of schools. The section No. 16. will unquestionably be reserved in all future surveys and disposals of public lands.

For colleges and seminaries of a higher grade, thirteen whole townships have already been granted by the United States to Michigan, Ohio, Indiana, &c. Thirteen townships are equal to 299,520 acres.

By section 2. of the act of April 18. 1806, relative to Tennessee, 200,000 acres are in that state reserved for colleges and academies.

The reservations for schools, colleges, &c. are--

Section No. 16. 1,666,666 Thirteen townships 299,520 Reservation in Tennessee 200,000 --------- 2,166,186 acres;

which, at the minimum price established previous to the year 1820, of two dollars per acre, is $4,332,372.

The area of the whole state of Ohio (the eldest of the states north of the Ohio) is about 25 millions of acres; of this about 14,400 had been surveyed anterior to the late cessions, which embrace the N. W. part of that state: 1/36 of 14,400,000 is 400,000.

The free spirit of Ohio, united with signal industry and economy, has already given to section 16. in the surveyed portion of the state, a value of at least four dollars per acre, or of 1,600,000 dollars. There are instances, in which section 16. in Ohio, is worth from twenty to thirty dollars per acre.--_National Intelligencer of November 10. 1819._--JAMES.

[073] The Meramec River (the name is a corruption of an Indian word meaning "Catfish") forms part of the boundary between Jefferson and St. Louis counties, Missouri. It flows from the southwest, its chief sources lying in Dent County, and is navigable for steamboats for almost a hundred miles.--ED.

[074] _Genus Mus. L.--M. Floridanus, Ord, Say._ _Body_ robust; _back_ plumbeous; sides, sacrum, and origin of the tail, ferrugineous-yellowish; _fur_ plumbeous near its base; all beneath white; _tail_ hairy, above brown, as long as the body; _head_ plumbeous, intermixed with gray, gradually attenuated to the nose; _ears_ large, prominent, patulous, obtusely rounded, naked or furnished with obsolete sparse hairs behind, and on the margin within; _eyes_ moderately prominent; _whiskers_, some black, and some white bristles, elongated, longest surpassing the tips of the ears, arranged in six longitudinal series, superior labia, and those of the angles of the mouth, folded into the mouth, and hairy within; _legs_ subequal, robust; anterior legs with a few white projecting setæ near the foot behind; _feet_ white; _toes_ annulate beneath, with impressed lines, intermediate ones equal, exterior ones equal; shorter thumb minute; _palm_ with five tuberculous prominences, of which the anterior ones are placed triangularly, and the others transversely; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; _posterior feet_, inner toe shortest, 2d, 3d, and 4th subequal, the third slightly longest, all beneath annulated; _nails_ concealed by the hairs; _palm_ with six tubercles, of which the three posterior ones are distant from each other. Entire length, from nose to tip of tail, sixteen inches nearly; _tail_ seven inches, _ear_ rather more than 9/10 of an inch long, greatest breadth one inch. From tip of nose to anterior canthus of the eye, 1/20 inches. Length of the eye nearly 2/5.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ George Ord, a Philadelphia scientist and writer, was known especially for his work in ornithology. He was at one time a vice president of the American Philosophical Society, and from 1851-58 was president of the Academy of Natural Sciences at Philadelphia.

[075] Near the mouth of the Merameg were collected the Rudbeckia _hirta_, and R. purpurea, a small white flowering species of Houstonia, the Galium tinctorium Smyrnium aureum, a phlox, a new species of potentilla, a conyza, the trifolium reflexum, a beautiful aira, the campunula perfoliata, diospyros virginiana, rhus glabra, and many others. _Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES.

[076] Vide Poche (Empty Pocket), more properly Carondelet, now included in St. Louis, was at this time five miles south of the original city. It is of about the same age.--ED.

{52} CHAPTER III

Tumuli and Indian Graves about St. Louis, and on the Merameg-- Mouth of the Missouri--Charboniere--Journey by land from St. Charles, to Loutre Island.

Saint Louis, formerly called Pain Court,[077] was founded by Pierre La Clade [Laclède] and his associates in 1764, eighty-four years after the establishment of Fort Creve-cœur, on the Illinois river. Until a recent period, it was occupied almost exclusively by people of French extraction, who maintained a lucrative traffic with the Indians. The history, and present condition of this important town, are too well known to be dwelt upon in this place. Its population has been rapidly augmented within a few years, by the immigration of numerous families, and its wealth and business extended by the accession of enterprising merchants and mechanics from the Eastern States. As the town advances in importance and magnitude, the manners and customs of the people of the United States, are taking the place of those of the French and Spaniards, whose numbers are proportionably diminishing. As this place seems destined to be the depôt for such articles of merchandize, as are to be sent from New Orleans to the upper rivers, it is unfortunate, that no good harbour offers for the protection of boats against the impetuosity of the current, and from the danger occasioned by floating ice. In this respect, the site of a projected town, a few miles below, has a decided advantage over Saint Louis, as it possesses a good harbour. It was selected many years since, by some Canadian Frenchmen, who formed a settlement there.[078]

The horizontal strata of limestone which underlay the town of Saint Louis and the surrounding country, {53} have strongly attracted the attention of the curious, on account of having been found, in one or two instances, to contain distinct impressions of the human foot. There is now in the possession of Mr. Rapp,[079] of the Society of the Harmonites, a stone, which has upon its surface marks that appear to have been formed by the naked feet of some human being, who was standing upon it while in a plastic state; also an irregular line, apparently traced by a stick or wand, held in the hand of the same person. This stone was taken from the slope of the immediate bank of the Mississippi below the range of the periodical floods. To us there seems nothing inexplicable or difficult to understand in its appearance.

Nothing is more probable, than that impressions of human feet made upon that thin stratum of mud, which was deposited on the shelvings of the rocks, and left naked by the retiring of the waters, may, by the induration of the mud, have been preserved, and at length have acquired the appearance of an impression made immediately upon the limestone. This supposition will be somewhat confirmed, if we examine the mud and slime deposited by the water of the Mississippi, which will be found to consist of such an intimate mixture of clay and lime, as under favourable circumstances would very readily become indurated. We are not confident that the impressions above mentioned have originated in the manner here supposed, but we cannot by any means adopt the opinion of some, who have considered them as contemporaneous to those casts of submarine animals, which occupy so great a part of the body of the limestone. We have no hesitation in saying, that whatever those impressions maybe, if they were produced, as they appear to have been by the agency of human feet, they belong to a period far more recent, than that of the deposition of the limestone on whose surface they are found.

The country about St. Louis, like that in the rear {54} of Fort Chartres, and indeed like the horizontal limestone country generally, abounds in sink holes sometimes of great depth. These are very numerous, from five to seven miles back of the town. They are in the form of vast funnels, having at the surface a diameter of from twenty to fifty yards. Mr. Say descended into one of these, for the purpose of ascertaining the medium temperature below the surface of the earth. This sink opens at the bottom of a deep ravine. It has two apertures near each other, through which water is admitted, and each large enough to afford passage to the body of a man. Within are two chambers from six to twelve feet in breadth, and thirty-five feet long. At the bottom of the second chamber is a pool of water rather difficult of access. In this apartment the mercury stood at 60° fah.: in a shady part of the ravine about twenty-five feet below the general surface at 75°. The grassy plains to the west of St. Louis are ornamented with many beautifully flowering herbaceous plants. Among those collected there, Dr. Baldwin observed the aristolochia Sipho, cypripedium spectabile,[080] lilium catesbeiana, bartsia coccinea, triosteum perfoliatum, cistus canadensis, clematis viorna, and the tradescantia virginica. The borders of this plain begin to be overrun with a humble growth of black jack and the witch hazel,[081] it abounds in rivulets, and some excellent springs of water, near one of which was found a new and beautiful species of viburnum. On the western borders of this prairie are some fine farms. It is here that Mr. John Bradbury,[082] so long and so advantageously known as a botanist, and by his travels into the interior of America, is preparing to erect his habitation. This amiable gentleman lost no opportunity during our stay at St. Louis to make our residence there agreeable to us. Near the site selected for his house is a mineral spring, whose {55} waters are strongly impregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas. Cattle and horses, which range here throughout the season, prefer the waters of this spring to those of the creek in whose bed it rises, and may be seen daily coming in great numbers, from distant parts of the prairie, to drink of it.

Tumuli, and other remains of the labours of nations of Indians that inhabited this region many ages since, are remarkably numerous about St. Louis. Those tumuli immediately northward of the town, and within a short distance of it, are twenty-seven in number, of various forms and magnitudes, arranged nearly in a line from north to south. The common form is an oblong square, and they all stand on the second bank of the river. The statement given below of their forms, magnitudes, and relative positions, is the result of actual admeasurement taken with care, and with as much accuracy as their present indefinite boundaries, together with the dense growth of underwood, covering their surface, and tending to beguile and obstruct the vision of the observer, will admit.

It seems probable these piles of earth were raised as cemeteries, or they may have supported altars for religious ceremonies. We cannot conceive any useful purpose to which they can have been applicable in war, unless as elevated stations from which to observe the motions of an approaching enemy; but for this purpose a single mound would have been sufficient, and the place chosen would probably have been different.

Nothing like a ditch, or an embankment, is to be seen about any part of these works.[083]

Indian graves are extremely numerous about St. Louis, though none are found in the immediate vicinity of the town: they are most frequent on the hills about the Merameg and on the north side of the Missouri. On the 12th June, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale, accompanied by one man, descended the Mississippi,{56} in a small boat to the mouth of the Merameg, and ascended the latter river about fifteen miles, to a place where great numbers of graves have been explored, and have been represented to contain the bones of a diminutive race of men. Most of these graves are found near the bank of the Merameg. They do not rise above the general surface, but their presence is ascertained by the vertical stones which enclose them, and project a little at either end of the grave. When the included earth, and the numerous horizontal flat stones are removed, we find the sides neatly constructed of long flat stones, vertically implanted and adapted to each other, edge to edge, so as to form a continuous wall. The graves are usually three or four feet, though sometimes six feet in length. The bones they contained appeared to have been deposited after having been separated from the flesh, and from each other, according to the custom of some tribes of Indians at the present day.

In the first grave opened by Mr. Say were found the fragments of an earthen pot, and the bones of an infantine skull; the second contained what appeared to be the remains of a middle aged man, of the ordinary stature, laid at full length; the bones much confused and broken. An inhabitant residing here informed them, that many similar graves had been found along the summits of most of the neighbouring hills. In one of these he had found two pieces of earthenware, one having nearly the form of a porter-bottle; the other with a wide mouth; but this grave contained no bones. After spending a night at this place, they crossed the river to the town of Lilliput, (one of the projected towns here has received this name,) the place so often mentioned as the locality of the graves of a pigmy race. Appearances here are in general similar to those already described. One head that had been dug up was that of an old person, in whom the teeth had been lost, and the alveolæ {57} obliterated, leaving the sharp edge of the jaw-bone. From this the neighbouring settlers had inferred the existence of a race of men without teeth, having their jaws like those of the turtle. Having satisfied themselves that all the bones found here were those of men of the common size, Mr. Say and Mr. Peale "sold their skiff, shouldered their guns, bones, spade, &c. and bent their weary steps towards St. Louis, (distant sixteen miles,) where they arrived at eleven o'clock P. M., having had ample time, by the way, to indulge sundry reflections on that quality of the mind, either imbibed in the nursery or generated by evil communications, which incites to the love of the marvellous, and, by hyperbole, casts the veil of falsehood over the charming features of simple nature."

These graves evidently contain the relics of a more modern people than those who erected the mounds.

On the summit of one of the large hillocks, near St. Louis, (No. 27. described in note 83) are several of these graves: we opened five of them, but in one only were we fortunate in finding any thing interesting, and all that this contained was a solitary tooth of a species of rat, together with the vertebræ and ribs of a serpent of moderate size, and in good preservation; but whether the animal had been buried by the natives, or had perished there, after having found admittance through some hole, we could not determine. If they were buried by the Indians, they are probably the bones of a species of crotalus, as it is known that many Indians of the present day have a sort of veneration for animals of that genus. The circumstance of the discovery of these bones renders it somewhat probable, that rattlesnakes were formerly worshipped by the natives of America, and their remains, like those of the Ibis of Egypt, religiously entombed after death.

Whilst we were at Cincinnati, Dr. Drake exhibited {58} to us, in his cabinet of natural history, two large marine shells, that had been dug out of ancient Indian tumuli in that vicinity. These shells were each cut longitudinally, and the larger half of each only remained. From this circumstance it seems probable that they had been used by the aborigines as drinking cups; or, consecrated to superstition, they may have been regarded as sacred utensils, and either used in connection with the rites of sacrifice, or in making libations to their deities; they may, however, like the cymbium of the Archipelago, have served a more useful and salutary purpose in bathing.

One of these specimens seems to be a _Cassis cornutus_, of authors, or great conch shell, though it is proper to observe, that of the three revolving bands of tubercles, characteristic of that species, the inferior one in this specimen is double. In length it is about nine inches and a quarter, and in breadth seven inches.

The other specimen is a heterostrophe shell of the genus _Fulgur_ of Montfort; and, as far as we can judge, in every respect the same with those which are, at the present day, found on the coast of Georgia and East Florida, known to naturalists under the name of _F. perversus_, though it is certainly much larger than any of the recent specimens we have seen; its length being nine inches, and breadth six and a half.

Several different countries have been mentioned by authors as the habitation of the _cornutus_; according to Rumphius, it inhabits Amboyna, the straits of Malacca, and the shores of the island of Boeton; Humphreys says it is brought from the East Indies and China; Linnæus believed it to inhabit the coasts of America; but Bruguiere, a more recent author, informs us that Linnæus was probably mistaken in the habitation of this shell, and states it to be a native of the Asiatic ocean.

The _cornutus_ becomes of some importance in the question relative to the Asiatic origin of the American {59} Indians. All the authorities to which we have been able to refer, correspond in assigning the shores of Asia, or those of the islands which lie near that continent, as the native territory of this great species of conch, with the sole exception of Linnæus; but as no other author has discovered it on the coasts of this continent, we must believe with Bruguiere, that it is only to be found in the Asiatic ocean.

The circumstance then of this shell being discovered in one of the ancient Indian tumuli, affords, at least, an evidence that an intercourse formerly existed between the Indians of North America and those of Asia; and leads us to believe that even a limited commerce was carried on between them, as it undoubtedly was with the Atlantic coast, from which the Fulgur was obtained.

But although this isolated fact does not yield a positive proof of the long asserted migration of the ancestors of the present race of American Indians from Asia to this country, yet, when taken in combination with other evidence, which has been collected by various authors, with so much industry, it will be regarded as highly corroborative of that popular belief.[084]

In the prairies of Illinois, opposite St. Louis, are numbers of large mounds. We counted seventy-five in the course of a walk of about five miles, which brought us to the hill a few years since occupied by the monks of La Trappe.[085] This enormous mound lies nearly from north to south, but it is so overgrown with bushes and weeds, interlaced with briers and vines, that we were unable to obtain an accurate account of its dimensions.

The survey of these productions of human industry, these monuments without inscription, commemorating the existence of a people once numerous and powerful, but no longer known or remembered, never fails, though often repeated, to produce an impression of sadness. As we stand upon these {60} mouldering piles, many of them now nearly obliterated, we cannot but compare their aspect of decay with the freshness of the wide field of nature, which we see reviving around us; their insignificance, with the majestic and imperishable features of the landscape. We feel the insignificance and the want of permanence in every thing human; we are reminded of what has been so often said of the pyramids of Egypt, and may with equal propriety be applied to all the works of men, "these monuments must perish, but the grass that grows between their disjointed fragments shall be renewed from year to year."[086]

June 21st. After completing our arrangements at St. Louis, we left that place at noon, and at 10 o'clock on the following day, entered the mouth of the Missouri. From St. Louis upward to the Missouri, the water of the Mississippi, for a part of the year, is observed to be clear and of a greenish colour on the Illinois side, while it is turbid and yellow along the western bank. But at the time of our ascent every part of the Mississippi appeared equally turbid, its waters soon becoming blended with the heavy flood of the Missouri.

The Missouri being now swollen by the spring floods, which had subsided in the Mississippi, entered that river with such impetuosity, as apparently to displace almost the whole body of the waters in its channel. We had occasion to observe that the water of the Missouri passes under that of the Mississippi, rising and becoming mingled with it on the opposite shore, so that a portion of the clear, green waters of the latter river run for some distance in the middle of the channel, and along the surface of the Missouri waters, rendered perhaps specifically heavier by the great quantities of earthy matter mingled with them. The waters of the Missouri are so charged with mud and sand as to be absolutely opake, and of a clay {61} colour; while those of the Mississippi being comparatively clear, and having a somewhat olivaceous tint, afford an opportunity of tracing their respective courses, after their junction in the same channel. At some stages of water they run side by side, and in a great measure unmingled as far as Herculaneum, forty-eight miles below their confluence.

We had the pleasure to find, notwithstanding the furnace was supplied with wood of an indifferent quality, that the force of our steam-engine was sufficient to propel the boat against the current of the Missouri, without recourse to the aid of the _cordelle_,[087] which we had expected to find necessary.

We were somewhat surprised to see here a flock of black-headed terns. It is remarkable that these birds, whose ordinary range is in the immediate vicinity of the sea-coast, should ascend this river to so great a distance. They are not seen on the Delaware as high as Philadelphia, unless driven up by storms.

In ascending from the mouth of the Missouri to Bellefontain, a distance of four miles, our boat grounded twice on the point of the same sand-bar, and considerable time was consumed in efforts to get her afloat. A military post was established at Bellefontain, under the direction of the government of the United States, by General Wilkinson, in 1803; but the soil on which his works were erected has disappeared, the place being now occupied by the bed of the river. A few fruit trees only, which stood in the end of his garden, are yet standing, but are now on the brink of the river. The first bank is here ten or twelve feet high, rising perpendicularly from the water. Near its base are the trunks of several trees with one end imbedded, and the other projecting horizontally over the surface of the water, affording an evidence of the recent deposition of the soil of the low plains, and an admonition of the uncertainty of tenure, on the first bank of the river. One of these projecting trunks is still in good preservation. It is {62} about three feet in diameter, and from its direction, must pass immediately under the roots of two large trees, now occupying the surface of the soil.[088] Similar appearances are frequent along the Mississippi and Missouri, and furnish abundant evidence that these rivers are constantly changing their bed, and, from the great rapidity of the stream, as well as from the appearances presented, we must suppose these changes are not very slowly produced; but their range is confined to the valley within the second banks, which are here raised about seventy feet. On this second bank, in the rear of the site of the former works, the buildings belonging to the present military establishment have been erected. They were commenced in 1810. The houses are of one story, constructed of logs, based upon masonry, and united in the form of a hollow square. At the foot of the second bank rises a fine spring of water, which has given name to the place. Cold Water creek, a very small stream not navigable, discharges itself a few hundred yards above; in times of high water its mouth might afford harbour to small boats. Before the recent change in the bed of the Missouri, this creek entered higher up than at present, and then afforded a good harbour for boats of all sizes. The sixth regiment were encamped here at the time of our arrival, waiting for the contractor's steam-boats, three of which we had passed at the mouth of the river.[089]

Here we found it necessary to adjust a tube to the boilers of our steam-engine, in order to form a passage, through which the mud might be blown out: the method heretofore adopted, of taking off one end for the purpose of admitting a man to clean them, proving too tedious when it was found necessary to repeat the operation daily. The expedient of the tube succeeded to our entire satisfaction.

Dr. Baldwin found here a plant, which he considered as forming a new genus, approaching astragalus; {63} also the new species of rose, pointed out by Mr. Bradbury, and by him called Rosa mutabilis. This last is a very beautiful species, rising sometimes to the height of eight or ten feet. The linden tree[090] attains great magnitude in the low grounds of the Missouri; its flowers were now fully expanded.

In ascending from Bellefontain to Charboniere, where we came to an anchor, on the evening of the 24th, we were opposed by a very strong current, and much impeded by sand-bars. On the upper ends of these sand-bars are many large rafts of drift wood; these are also frequent along the right hand shore. In several places we observed portions of the bank in the act of falling or sliding into the river. By this operation, numerous trees, commonly cotton-woods and willows, are overturned into the water.

The forests, on the low grounds immediately in the vicinity of the Missouri, are remarkably dense; but in many instances, the young willows and poplars (which are the first and almost the only trees that spring up on the lands left naked by the river) have not attained half their ordinary dimensions, before, by another change in the direction of the current, they are undermined, and precipitated down, to be borne away by the river. The growth of the cotton-tree is very rapid, that of the salix angustata, the most common of the willows found here, is more tardy, as it never attains to great size. The seeds of both these trees are produced in the greatest profusion, and ripened early in the summer, and being furnished by nature with an apparatus to ensure their wide dissemination, they have extended themselves and taken root in the fertile lands along all the ramifications of the Mississippi, prevailing almost to the exclusion of other trees.

{64} Charboniere[091] is on the right bank of the Missouri. This name was given it by the boatmen and the earliest settlers, on account of several narrow beds of coal, which appear a few feet from the water's edge, at the base of a high cliff of soft sandstone. The smell of sulphur is very perceptible along the bank of the river, occasioned doubtless by the decomposition of pyrites, in the exposed parts of the coal beds. Some small masses of sulphate of lime also occur, and have probably derived their origin from the same source.

At St. Charles we were joined by Maj. O'Fallon, agent for Indian affairs in Missouri, and his interpreter, Mr. John Dougherty, who had travelled by land from St. Louis.[092] When Lewis and Clark ascended the Missouri, the town of St. Charles was said to contain one hundred houses, the inhabitants deriving their support principally from the Indian trade. This source having in a great measure failed, on account of the disappearance of the aborigines, before the rapid advances of the white population, the town remained in a somewhat declining condition for several years; but as the surrounding country was soon occupied by an agricultural population, a more permanent though less lucrative exchange is taking the place of the Indian trade. Accordingly within two or three years, many substantial brick buildings had been added, and several were now in progress: we could enumerate, however, only about one hundred houses. There are two brick kilns, a tanyard, and several stores.[093]

A mile or two below St. Charles, are many trunks of trees projecting from the bank, like those mentioned at Bellefontain. In the face of the banks are usually great numbers of the holes made by the bank-swallow for its nest, and the birds themselves are frequently seen.

At St. Charles, arrangements were made for the purpose of transporting baggage for such of the gentlemen {65} of the party as should choose to ascend the Missouri by land, that they might have the better opportunities for investigating the natural history of the country. Messrs. Say, Jessup, Peale, and Seymour, having provided themselves with a horse and pack-saddle, on which they fastened their blankets, a tent, and some provisions, accompanied by one man, left St. Charles at 7 o'clock on the morning of the 26th, intending to keep nearly an equal pace with the steam-boat, in order to rejoin it as occasion might require. Dr. Baldwin, still confined by debility and lameness, was compelled to forego the pleasure of accompanying them.

The Western Engineer proceeded on her voyage, soon after the departure of Mr. Say and his detachment. Having grounded several times in the course of the day, and contending all the way against a heavy current, she proceeded but a few miles. We passed some rocky cliffs; but in general the immediate banks of the river presented the same appearance as below, consisting of a recent alluvium. After we had anchored at evening, Dr. Baldwin was able to walk a short distance on shore, but returned much fatigued by his exertions.[094]

On the morning of the 27th, after having taken in a small supply of indifferent fuel, we crossed over to the right-hand side of the river, and took on board one of the party, who had left the boat at an early hour, to visit a friend residing a short distance from the river. At evening we came to anchor half a mile below Point Labidee,[095] a high bluff, where observations for latitude were taken. Here we were detained a day making some necessary repairs.

A fine field of wheat, which appeared to be ripe, extended down to the brink of the river opposite the spot where we lay. This belonged to the plantation of a farmer, recently from Virginia. From him we obtained a plentiful supply of milk, and some bacon hams. A portion of the bank had lately fallen into {66} the river, and with it a part of the wheat field, and the dwelling house and other buildings seemed destined soon to follow.

The shore here was lined with the common elder, (sambucus canadensis) in full bloom, and the cleared fields were yellow with the flowers of the common mullein. This plant, supposed to have been originally introduced from Europe, follows closely the footsteps of the whites. The liatris pycnostachia, here called "pine of the prairies," which was now in full bloom, has a roundish tuberous root, of a warm somewhat balsamic taste, and is used by the Indians and others for the cure of gonnorrhœa.

The Indian interpreter, Mr. Dougherty, also showed us some branches of a shrub, which he said was much used among the natives in the cure of lues venerea. They make a decoction of the root, which they continue to drink for some time. It is called "blue wood" by the French, and is the symphoria racemosa of Pursh, common to the maritime states, the banks of the St. Lawrence, and the Missouri. It is here rather taller, and the branches less flexuous than in the eastern states.[096]

Without meeting any remarkable occurrences, we moved on from day to day, encountering numerous obstacles in the navigation of the river, and being occasionally delayed by the failure of some part of the steam-engine, till on the 2d of July, we arrived at Loutre Island, where we found Mr. Say and his companions.

After leaving the steam-boat at St. Charles, on the 25th of June, this party had travelled over a somewhat hilly country, covered with open oak woods for about ten miles, to a small creek, called the Darden,[097] entering the Mississippi a few miles above the Illinois. This stream they crossed three miles from the Missouri, having in their walk suffered greatly {67} from thirst. At evening they tied their pack-horse to a bush; and as they returned, after being absent a few minutes for water, the animal took fright, and breaking loose, disencumbered himself of his pack, and set off on a gallop to return to St. Charles; and it was not without great exertion that he was overtaken and brought back. They then pitched their tent, and were so fortunate as to find a house at the distance of half a mile. This belonged to a family from Carolina, and exhibited great appearance of neatness and comfort, but the owner was found particularly deficient in hospitality. He refused to sell or to give any refreshments for the use of the party, and even granted them some water with apparent reluctance, marching haughtily about his piazza, while some person was annoying his family by playing wretchedly on a flute. Mr. Say and the gentlemen of his party had on the fatigue dress of common soldiers, to which they probably owed the coldness of their reception. We are, however, glad to be able, from much experience, to say that there are few houses in the lately settled parts of the United States, where common soldiers would have met such a reception as was accorded by this Mr. N. to the gentlemen of the party. Want of hospitality is rarely the fault of the inhabitants of the remote settlements. Being refused refreshments, they returned to their camp, and with the addition of a hawk which they had killed, made a supper from the contents of their pack.

On the 27th they crossed the Perogue,[098] about nineteen miles from St. Charles; and after a fatiguing march of several miles, were entertained at the house of a very worthy man, who supplied them with whatever his place afforded. From too long fasting, and from the effect of exposure and fatigue, Mr. Say and others became somewhat unwell; and on their account, the party remained at the house of their friendly host till evening, when they walked four {68} miles to a place called Fort Kennedy. They purchased a ham, and a loaf of corn bread of Mr. Kennedy, paying ten cents per pound for the ham, and twenty-five cents for all the bread, milk, and corn, consumed during their stay.[099]

The next morning, having travelled about seven miles, they halted for breakfast; and having fettered their horse, dismissed him to feed; but when sought for the purpose of continuing their journey, he could not be found. Two travellers at length arrived, and informed them that the horse had been seen at about six miles' distance, on the way towards St. Charles: a horse was therefore hired, and a person returned in pursuit; but he was not to be found, having proceeded on his journey previously to the arrival of the messenger.

The prairie flies (a species of tabanus,) are exceedingly troublesome to horses and cattle, insomuch that people who cross these grassy plains usually travel very early in the morning, and again at evening, resting greater part of the day; some, indeed, journey only by night. If they travel at all in the day, they have the precaution to defend the horse, by a covering thrown loosely over him. The tabani appear about the 10th of June, and are seen in immense numbers, until about the 10th of August, when they disappear. Near the farm houses we observed, that cattle, when attacked by them, ran violently among the bushes, to rid themselves of their persecutors.--Mosquitoes were not numerous.

As they were fearful of being unable to overtake the steam-boat on the Missouri, if they made a longer delay to prosecute the search for their horse, it was determined to abandon him altogether, rather than return to St. Charles, whither he had doubtless gone; accordingly, on the 29th of June, they made a division of their baggage, and each one shouldering his respective portion, proceeded towards the margin of Loutre Prairie. When they arrived here, they determined {69} to take the most direct route towards the Missouri, as it seemed folly for them to attempt, in the drought and heat, which then prevailed, to cross the extensive plains of Loutre and the Grand Prairie with their heavy burthens. They therefore followed a path leading nearly south, along a naked ridge; where they travelled twelve miles, without finding water, and arrived at Loutre Island in the evening. They were all the day tormented with excessive thirst; and being unaccustomed to travelling on foot, they were much fatigued, and several became lame. The soil of the extensive prairies which they passed was not very good; but mixed at the surface with so much vegetable matter, accumulated by the successive growth and decomposition of the yearly products, as to give it the aspect of fertility.[100]

On the south side of Loutre Prairie a well has been sunk sixty-five feet, without obtaining water; on the north water is readily found, by digging to a moderate depth. Loutre Prairie is twenty-three, and Grand Prairie is twenty-five miles in length: on the borders of each are some scattering settlements.

Near Loutre Island are several forts, as they are called by the inhabitants, built by the settlers during the late war, and designed to afford protection against the attacks of the aborigines, chiefly the Kickapoos, and Saukees, who were most feared in this quarter. They are simply strong log-houses, with a projecting upper story, and with loop-holes for musketry.

It was within a few miles of this place, that a company of mounted rangers, commanded by Captain Calloway, were attacked by the Indians. The assault commenced as the rangers were entering a narrow defile, near the confluence of the Prairie Forks of Loutre Creek. Several men were killed at the first fire, and Captain Calloway received in his body a ball that had passed through his watch. So furious was the onset, that there was no time for reloading their pieces after they had discharged them. {70} Captain Calloway threw his gun into the creek, that it might not add to the booty of the Indians; and though mortally wounded, drew his knife, and killed two of the assailants; but seeing no prospect of success he ordered a retreat, hoping thereby to save the lives of some of his men. He was the last to leave the ground; when springing into the creek he received a shot in his head, and expired immediately.[101]

Loutre Island is something more than nine miles long, and about one mile wide, and is the residence of several families. Between it and the main land is an isthmus, which is left naked at times of low water. Loutre Creek enters at the lower end of the island. It is not navigable. Mr. Talbot, formerly from Kentucky, has been resident here for nine years. His farm is in a high state of cultivation, and furnishes abundant supplies of poultry, eggs, potatoes, and the numerous products of the kitchen garden, of which he sent a handsome present on board our boat. He informed us that peach-trees succeed well in the most fertile parts of the island.[102]

The first dwellings constructed by the white settlers are nearly similar in every part of the United States. Superior wealth and industry are indicated by the number and magnitude of corn-cribs, smoke-houses, and similar appurtenances; but on the Missouri, we rarely meet with any thing occupying the place of the barn in the northern states. The dwellings of people who have emigrated from Virginia, or any of the more southern states, have usually the form of double cabins, or two distinct houses, each containing a single room, and connected to each other by a roof; the intermediate space, which is often equal in area to one of the cabins, being left open at the sides, and having the naked earth for a floor, affords a cool and airy retreat, where the family will usually be found in the heat of the day. The roof is composed of from three to five logs, laid longitudinally, {71} and extending from end to end of the building; on these are laid the shingles, four or five feet in length; over these are three or four heavy logs, called weight poles, secured at their ends by withes, and by their weight supplying the place of nails.

They have corn-mills, consisting of a large horizontal wooden wheel, moved by a horse, and having a band passed round its periphery to communicate motion to the stone. These are called band-mills, and are the most simple and economical of those in which the power of horses is employed. The solitary planter, who has chosen his place remote from the habitation of any other family, has sometimes a mill of a more primitive character, called a hand-mill, probably differing little from those used among the ancient Egyptians. It consists of two stones; and while one person causes the uppermost to revolve horizontally upon the disk of the other, a second, who is usually a child or a woman, introduces the corn a few grains at a time, through a perforation in the upper stone. Some are content with the still ruder apparatus, consisting of an excavation in the top of a stump; into which the corn is thrown, and brayed with a pestle. This is the method in use among many of the agricultural Indians.

A large species of lampyris is common on the lower part of the Missouri. It is readily distinguished from the smaller species, the common fire-fly, by its mode of coruscating. It emits from three to seven or eight flashes, in rapid succession, then ceases; but shortly after renews its brilliancy. This species appears early in May. We saw many of them in returning by night from the Merameg to St. Louis; but before our arrival at Loutre Island they had disappeared, and were succeeded by great numbers of the lampyris pyralis, whose coruscations are inferior in quantity of light, and appear singly.

The black walnut attains, in the Missouri bottoms, {72} its greatest magnitude. Of one, which grew near Loutre Island, there had been made two hundred fence-rails, eleven feet in length, and from four to six inches in thickness. A cotton-tree, in the same neighbourhood, produced thirty thousand shingles, as we were informed by a credible witness.

FOOTNOTES:

[077] The name Pain Court (Short of Bread), and the similar appellations of Carondelet (_Vide Poche_--Empty Pocket), and of Ste. Geneviève (_Misère_--Poverty), are said to have originated in the good-natured raillery between the French of the several settlements. They probably point also to the want often experienced by a trading people who neglected agriculture. For further facts relative to the early history of St. Louis, see Croghan's _Journals_, in our volume i, note 134, and André Michaux's _Travels_, in our volume iii, note 138.--ED.

[078] The lack of a good harbor at St. Louis has occasioned vast trouble and expense. The encroachment of the river on the Illinois side caused sand-bars to form along the city water front, and for many years it seemed likely that the town would eventually be left high and dry. Efforts at improvement were begun in 1833, ox-teams and plows being used to loosen the sand for high water to remove. Both city and federal governments have since made many improvements, the river at that point requiring almost continuous care.--ED.

[079] George Rapp, the founder of the Harmonites, was born in Würtemberg in 1770. The sect endeavored to revive the practices of the primitive Christian church, communism and celibacy being among its tenets. After founding Harmony, Pennsylvania, in 1803, and New Harmony, Indiana, in 1815, the community settled at Harmony, Pennsylvania, where Rapp died in 1847.--ED.

[080] C. parviflorum.--JAMES.

[081] Hamamelis virginica, and quercus nigra.--JAMES.

[082] Bradbury's _Travels_ are reprinted as volume v of our series. See preface of that volume for biographical sketch.--ED.

[083] What we have called base in the following statement is in reality the length of a line passing over the top of the mound, from the termination of the base each side.

The numbers refer to a draft. The heights are estimated, with the exception of two.

No. 2. A square with a hollow way, gradually sloping to the top; or, in other words, a hollow square open behind.

feet. Base 50 Height 5 Distance N. from the Spanish bastion 259

No. 3. An oblong square.

feet. Longitudinal base 114 Transverse base 50 Length at top 80 Perpendicular height 4 Distance from No. 2. N. 115

No. 4. An oblong square.

feet. Longitudinal base 84 top 45 Perpendicular height 4 Distance N. 251

Nos. 2. 3. and 4. are each about 33 ordinary steps from the edge of the second bank of the river.

No. 5. An oblong square.

feet. Longitudinal base 81 top 35 Perpendicular height 4 Distance W. 155

No. 6. Different in form from the others. It is called the _Falling Garden_, and consists of three stages, all of equal length, and of the same parallelogramic form: the superior stage, like the five succeeding mounds, is bounded on the east by the edge of the second bank of the river: the second and third stages are in succession on the declivity of the bank, each being horizontal; and are connected with each other, and with the first, by an abruptly oblique descent.

feet. Longitudinal base 114 top 88 Transverse base of first stage 30 height of first stage 5 Declivity to the second stage 34 Transverse surface of second stage 51 Declivity to the third stage 30 Transverse surface of third stage 87 Declivity to the natural slope 19

feet. No. 7. Like the three succeeding ones, conical. Distance northward 95 Base 83 Top 34 Height 4-1/2

No. 8. Distance about N. 94 Base 98 Top 31 Height 5

No. 9. Distance about N. 70 Base 114 Top 56 Height 16

No. 10. Distance about N. 74 Base 91 Top 34 Height 8 or 10

No. 11. Nearly square, with a large area on the top (a brick house is erected at the S.W. corner). The eastern side appears to range with the preceding mounds. Distance 158 Base 179 Top 107 Height W. side, say 5 Height S. 11 Height E. 15 or 20

No. 12. Nearly square, westerly a little N. from No. 7. and distant from it 30 Base 129 Top 50 Height 10

No. 13. A parallelogram, placed transversely with respect to the group.

feet. Distance 30 Distance from No. 5. N. 10 W. 350 Longitudinal base 214 top 134 Transverse base 188 top 97 Height 12

No. 14. A convex mound, W. 55 Base 95 Height 5 or 6

No. 15. Together with the three succeeding ones, more or less square.

feet. Distance N.W. 117 Base 70 Height 4

No. 16. Distance N. 10 E. 103 Base 124

No. 17. Distance N. 78 Base 82

No. 18. Distance, N.N.E. 118 Base 77

The mounds from 14. to 18. inclusive, are so arranged as to describe a curve, which, when continued, terminates at the larger mounds, Nos. 15. and 19. No. 19. A large quadrangular mound, placed transversely, and with No. 13., ranging in a line nearly parallel to the principal series (from 2. to 11.)

feet. Distance N.N.W. from No. 13. 484 Distance E.N.E. from No. 18. 70 Base 187 Top 68 (By measurement) Height 23

No. 20. A small barrow, perhaps two feet high, and of proportionably rather large base, say 15 or 20 feet.

No. 21. A mound similar to the preceding, same height. West of No. 16., base 25 feet.

No. 22. Quadrangular.

feet. Distance West from No. 16. 319 Base 73

No. 23. A mound of considerable regularity; but, owing to the thickness of the bushes, we cannot at present satisfy ourselves of its being artificial, though from its corresponding with No. 25. we suppose it to be so.

No. 24. Appears to be an irregular mound 10 or 12 feet high, and 145 feet base.

No. 25. Distant N. 10 E. 114 feet; and following this course 132 feet, we arrive at an elevation on its margin, as is also the case with No. 24., and which we have numbered 26.

No. 26. Of which the base is 89 feet, and height 10 or 12.--It is distant W.N.W. from No. 26., 538 feet.

No. 27. Is the largest mound, of an elongated-oval form, with a large step on the eastern side.

feet. Distance N. from No. 26. 1463 Longitudinal base 319 top 136 Transverse base 158 top 11 Step transversely 79 Height by measurement 34

At the distance of a mile to the westward, is said to be another large mound.--JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ These mounds have been effaced by the growth of the city. The map of them prepared by Long's party was not published until 1861; it will be found on page 387 of the Smithsonian Institution _Report_ for that year.

[084] The uncertainty with which the shell mentioned was classed as _Cassis cornutus_ renders its identification in terms of modern nomenclature practically impossible; such identification could be accurately made only by examination of the same specimen. The value of the argument relative to the origin of the Indians is, therefore, not easy to estimate.--ED.

[085] From this fact it derived the name "Monk's Mound." The Trappist establishment was made in 1808, but was soon afterwards abandoned. The mound is one of the largest in the United States--the area of the base is six acres, that of the top two; the height is ninety-one feet.--ED.

[086] Maturin.-JAMES.

_Comment by Ed._ Charles Robert Maturin (1782-1816) was a Dublin dramatist and novelist. In his writings passages of undoubted eloquence were strangely mingled with extravagance and bombast. The incoherence of his plots and the inconsistency of his characters led many who recognized his genius to believe him mad.

[087] The cordelle was a rope, often several hundred yards long, by means of which men towed boats up rapid streams. When the current was especially strong, the end of the cordelle was attached to a tree and a windlass used.--ED.

[088] In a section of forty feet perpendicular, of the alluvion of the Mississippi, near New Madrid, Mr. Shultz found seven hundred and ninety-eight layers, indicating an equal number of inundations, in the time of their deposition. Supposing these inundations to have happened yearly, we have an easy method of forming an estimate of the rapidity of the elevation of the bed of the Mississippi. These layers were found to vary in thickness, from one-fourth of an inch to three inches. See Shultz's _Travels_, vol. ii. p. 90.--JAMES.

[089] Bellefontaine, or Fort Bellefontaine (old Fort Charles the Prince), was occupied by troops until 1826. See Thwaites, _Original Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition_, v, pp. 392, 393, note 2. The site of the newer works mentioned in the text is now uncertain. An island opposite the mouth of Cold Water Creek was the camp of Lewis and Clark the first night after beginning the ascent of the Missouri (May 14, 1804).--ED.

[090] Tilia Americana. The Podalyria alba, anemone virginiana, polygala incarnata (prairies) anagallis arvensis, lathyrus decaphyllus, ranunculus fluviatalis, carex multiflora, &c. were collected at Bellefontain. _Dr. Baldwin's MS. Notes._--JAMES.

[091] The correct orthography of the word is Charbonnière, which means "carrying coals."--ED.

[092] This was Benjamin O'Fallon, whose mother was the youngest sister of George Rogers and William Clark; his father, Dr. James O'Fallon, was a Revolutionary character and prominent Kentucky pioneer. A brother, John O'Fallon, was in the middle of the century, one of the most prominent citizens of St. Louis.

John Dougherty was later for many years agent for the Oto, Pawnee, and Omaha tribes.--ED.

[093] For St. Charles, see Bradbury's _Travels_, in our volume v, note 9.--ED.

[094] The vegetable productions at this place were, the populus deltoides, occupying the narrow margin of the river (not here preceded by the salix angustata, as is generally the case in recent alluvial grounds on the Ohio and Mississippi); the amorpha fruticosa,[A] and platanus occidentalis, next follow. The margin of the bluff produces the quercus rubra, juglans pubescens, carpinus Americana, (around the latter, we observed the celastrus scandens entwined and in fruit,) and on higher grounds, the laurus sassafras and juniperus Virginianus. Of herbaceous plants, the only one in flower was the rudbeckia fulgida. The higher parts of the hills were in many places thickly covered with species of elymus and andropogon, the summits being usually quite naked, and consisting of horizontal masses of ferruginous coloured sandstone. _Baldwin._--JAMES.

[A] This beautiful flowering shrub occupies the low lands of Georgia, on the sea coast, but is not confined to the margin of rivers, as appears to be the case on the Missouri.

[095] On Point L'Abbadie, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising our volume v, note 13.--ED.

[096] Baldwin.--JAMES.

[097] Dardenne Creek flows northeast across St. Charles County to the Mississippi, as do nearly all the watercourses of this county. It and the township of the same name are so called from one of the early settlers.--ED.

[098] Perruque (Wig) Creek is said to commemorate the adventure of a Frenchman whose wig became entangled in the branches of a tree while he was crossing the stream.--ED.

[099] Thomas Kennedy, a Revolutionary veteran from Virginia came to Warren County, Missouri, early in 1808. His stockade and blockhouse, built for protection against the Indians during the War of 1812-15, stood a mile and a half southeast of Wright City.--ED.

[100] The course of the party had been northwest through St. Clair and Warren counties, and thence south by west to the river. Loutre Island is on the boundary between Warren and Montgomery counties.--ED.

[101] This affair took place March 7, 1815. Captain James Callaway was the grandson of Daniel Boone. His company consisted besides himself of a lieutenant and fourteen men.--ED.

[102] Loutre (Otter) Island was the site of the first settlements in Montgomery County, which probably date back to 1798. There were two Talbots among the early arrivals, Christopher and Hale. Among their neighbors were the Thorps, Ashcrafts, Coles, Pattons, and Coopers--there were two or three families of each, most of them being from Kentucky. The father of "Kit" Carson was another member of the community.--ED.

{73} CHAPTER IV

Settlement of Cote Sans Dessein--Mouths of the Osage--Manito Rocks--Village of Franklin

The left bank of the Missouri at the confluence of Loutre Creek is precipitous, terminating a group of hills which can be distinguished running far to the north-east. Towards the river these fall off in perpendicular precipices, whose bases are concealed in a dense growth of trees and underwood. From their summits huge masses of rock have fallen; and some of these are of such magnitude, that their summits rise above the surrounding forest. One standing opposite the head of the island next above Loutre, is marked with numerous rude drawings, executed by the Indians; some representing men with the heads of bisons, spears, arrows, bows, &c. Half a mile above this rock the Gasconade enters the Missouri from the south. The sources of this river are in the hilly country, near those of some of the larger tributaries of the Yungar fork of the Osage; its waters are transparent, and its current rapid. Traversing a rocky and broken country, it has not the uniformity of current common to many of the branches of the Missouri, but is varied by numerous cataracts and rapids, affording convenient stations for water-mills. Some saw-mills have already been erected; and from them a supply of pine-timber is brought to the settlements on the Missouri, that tree being rarely met with here, except in the hilly country. The Gasconade is navigable for a few miles. As might be expected, a projected town is placed at the confluence of this {74} river and the Missouri, and is to be called Gasconade.[103]

Above the Gasconade, the aspect of the shores of the Missouri is the same as below, except that the hills are discontinued on the left side, and make their appearance on the right, extending along eight or nine miles; above this both shores are low bottom grounds.

Having received on board Mr. Say and his companions, we left Loutre Island on the 3d of July; and passing in succession the mouths of the Gasconade, Bear Creek, the Au Vase, and other tributaries, we anchored on the evening of the 5th, above the little village of Cote Sans Dessein.[104] This place contains about thirty families, mostly French, occupying as many small log cabins, scattered remotely along the left bank of the river. Nearly opposite the village is the lower mouth of the Osage. Just above the town is the elevated insular hill, which has given name to the place; it extends about eight hundred yards, parallel to the bank of the river, and terminates at a small stream called Revoe's Creek. Back of the hill is a marsh, discharging a small stream of water into the creek. The site of the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein is remarkable on account of the fertility of the soil, the black mould extending to the depth of about four feet. The soil is very rich for twenty or thirty miles, in the rear of the village; but the uncertainty of the titles, arising from the conflicting claims, founded on the basis of pre-emption, New Madrid grants, and the concession of a large tract opposite the mouth of the Osage, made by the Spanish authorities in favour of Mr. Choteau, still operates to retard the increase of population.[105]

At the time of the late war the inhabitants of this settlement, relying on mutual protection, did not retire, but erected two stockades, and block-houses for their defence; the Sauks, assisted by some Foxes and Ioways, having by a feigned attack and {75} retreat, induced the greater part of the men to pursue them, gained their rear by means of an ambuscade, and entering the village, raised their war-cry at the doors of the cabins. The women and children fled in consternation to the block-houses. At this juncture a young man was seen, who would not abandon his decrepit mother, even though she entreated him to fly and save his own life, leaving her, who could at best expect to live but a few days, to the mercy of the savages. The youth, instead of listening to her request, raised her upon his shoulders, and ran towards the stockade, closely pursued by the Indians. They fired several times upon him, and he must have been cut off had not a sally been made in his favour.

After killing the villagers who had fallen into their hands, the Indians proceeded to attack the lower stockade. The block-house at this work was defended by two men, and several women. On hearing the war-cry, this little but determined garrison responded to it in such a manner as to communicate to the Indians the idea that the block-house contained a considerable number of men. They, therefore, proceeded to the attack with caution. In the first onset, one of the two men received a mortal wound, which made him incapable of further exertion--the other continued to discharge the guns at the besiegers, they being loaded and put into his hands by the women. One mode of attack, adopted by the Indians, had nearly proved successful. They threw burning torches upon the roof, which was several times on fire; but the women, with admirable presence of mind, and undaunted intrepidity, ascended to the top of the building and extinguished the flames. This scene continued during the entire day; and at evening, when the assailants withdrew, a small portion only of the roof remained; so often had the attempt to fire the building been repeated. The loss sustained by the enemy was never correctly {76} ascertained; it has since been stated by an Indian, that fourteen were killed and several wounded, but many are of opinion that two or three only were killed.

We saw the hero of this affair at the block-house itself, now converted into a dwelling; but he did not appear to be greatly esteemed, having perhaps few qualities except personal intrepidity to recommend him.[106] Cote Sans Dessein contains a tavern, a store, a blacksmith's shop, and a billiard table.

The Cane[107] is no where met with on the Missouri; but its place is in part supplied by the equisetum hiemale, which, remaining green through the winter, affords an indifferent pasturage for horned cattle and horses: to the latter, it often prove deleterious. The inhabitants of St. Genevieve placed their horses upon an island covered with rushes, where great numbers of them shortly after died; but it was observed that such as received regularly a small quantity of salt remained uninjured. Of a large number of horses, placed on an island near the mouth of the Nishnebottona,[108] to feed upon this plant, no less than twenty were found dead at the end of five days. May not the deleterious properties of the equisetum hiemale depend, in some measure, on the frozen water included in the cavity of the stalk?

We were told the cows on this part of the Missouri, at certain seasons of the year, give milk so deleterious as to prove fatal, when taken into the stomach; and this effect is commonly attributed to a poisonous plant, said to be frequent in the low grounds, where it is eaten by the cattle. They have a disease called the _milk sickness_: it commences with nausea and dizziness, succeeded by headache, pain in the stomach and bowels, and finally, by a prostration of strength, which renders the patient unable to stand; a general torpor soon ensues, succeeded {77} by death. It is a common belief that the flesh of animals, that have eaten of this poisonous weed, is noxious, and that horses are destroyed by it.

We have heard it remarked by the inhabitants of the Ohio below the rapids, that the milk of cows running at large in August is poisonous; and this they do not fail to attribute to the effect of noxious plants; and in some places they point out to you one, and in another place another vegetable, to which they assign these properties. The inhabitants generally seem to have no suspicion that milk, unless it is poisoned, can be an unwholesome article of diet; and we have been often surprised to see it given to those labouring under fever. Throughout the western states, and particularly in the more remote settlements, much use is made of butter-milk, and soured milk in various forms; all of which they sell to travellers. Below Cote Sans Dessein we paid, for new milk, twenty-five cents per gallon, and for soured milk, eighteen and three-fourth cents. At that place twenty-five cents per quart were demanded by the French settlers. It is commonly remarked that the French, as well as the Indians, who have been long in the immediate vicinity of the whites, charge a much higher price for any article than the Anglo-Americans, under the same circumstances. Emigrants from the southern states prefer sour milk; and the traveller's taste in this particular, we have often observed, forms a test to discover whether he is entitled to the opprobrious name of _Yankee_, as the people of the northern and eastern states rarely choose sour milk. We have found that in some of the sickliest parts of the valley of the Mississippi, where bilious and typhoid fevers prevail, through the summer and autumn, the most unrestrained use is made of butter, milk, eggs, and similar articles of diet. Dr. Baldwin was of opinion that the _milk sickness_ of the Missouri did not originate from any deleterious vegetable substance eaten by the cows, but {78} was a species of typhus, produced by putrid exhalations, and perhaps aggravated by an incautious use of a milk diet.

During the few days we remained at Cote Sans Dessein, Dr. Baldwin, though suffering much from weakness, and yielding perceptibly to the progress of a fatal disease, was able to make several excursions on shore. His devotion to a fascinating pursuit stimulated him to exertions for which the strength of his wasted frame seemed wholly inadequate; and it is not, perhaps, improbable that his efforts may have somewhat hastened the termination of his life.

Between Loutre Island and Cote Sans Dessein compact limestone occurs, in horizontal strata, along the sides of the Missouri valley. It is of a bluish white colour, compact structure, and a somewhat concoidal fracture, containing few organic remains. It alternates with sandstones, having a silicious cement.[109] These horizontal strata are deeply covered with soil, usually a calcareous loam, intermixed with decayed vegetable matter.

July 6th.--Soon after leaving the settlement of Cote Sans Dessein, we passed the upper and larger mouth of the Osage river. Here, to use the language of the country, a town has been _located_, and the lots lately disposed of at St. Louis, at various prices, from fifty to one hundred and eighty dollars each.[110] Within the limits of this town is a considerable hill, rising at the point of the junction of the two rivers, and running parallel to the Missouri. From its summit is an extensive view of the village of Cote Sans Dessein, and the surrounding country.

The river of the Osages, so called from the well-known tribe of Indians inhabiting its banks, enters the Missouri one hundred and thirty-three miles above the confluence of the latter river with the Mississippi. Its sources are in the Ozark mountains, opposite those of the White river of the Mississippi, and of the Neosho, {79} a tributary of the Arkansa. Flowing along the base of the north-western slope of a mountainous range, it receives from the east several rapid and beautiful rivers, of which the largest is the Yungar, (so named, in some Indian language, from the great number of springs tributary to it,) entering the Osage one hundred and forty miles from the Missouri.

In point of magnitude the Osage ranks nearly with the Cumberland and Tennessee. It has been represented as navigable for six hundred miles; but as its current is known to be rapid, flowing over great numbers of shoals and sand-bars, this must be considered an exaggeration. In the lower part of its course it traverses broad and fertile bottom lands, bearing heavy forests of sycamore and cotton trees. We may expect the country along the banks of this river will soon become the seat of a numerous population, as it possesses in a fertile soil and a mild climate, advantages more than sufficient to compensate for the difficulty of access, and other inconveniences of situation.

The northern bank of the Missouri, for some distance above the confluence of the Osage, is hilly. Moreau's Creek enters three miles above; and at its mouth is Cedar Island, where we anchored for the night. This island is three miles long, and has furnished much cedar timber for the settlements below; but its supply is now nearly exhausted.[111]

In the afternoon of the following day we were entangled among great numbers of _snags_ and _planters_, and had a cat-head carried away by one of them. In shutting off the steam on this occasion, one of the valves was displaced; and as we were no longer able to confine the steam, the engine became useless, the boat being thus exposed to imminent danger. At length we succeeded in extricating ourselves; and came to an anchor near the entrance of a small stream, called Mast Creek by Lewis and Clarke.[112]

{80} At evening dense cumulostratus and cirrostratus clouds skirted the horizon: above these we observed a comet bearing north-west by north. Above the mouth of the Osage, the immediate valley of the Missouri gradually expands, embracing some wide bottoms, in which are many settlements increasing rapidly in the number of inhabitants. The Manito rocks, and some other precipitous cliffs, are the terminations of low ranges of hills running in quite to the river. These hills sometimes occasion rapids in the river, as in the instance of the Manito rocks; opposite which commences a group of small islands stretching obliquely across the Missouri, and separated by narrow channels, in which the current is stronger than below. Some of these channels we found obstructed by collections of floating trees, which usually accumulate about the heads of islands, and are here called rafts. After increasing to a certain extent, portions of these rafts becoming loosened, float down the river, sometimes covering nearly its whole surface, and greatly endangering the safety, and impeding the progress, of such boats as are ascending. The group above mentioned is called the Thousand Islands.

Nashville, Smithton, Rectorsville, and numerous other towns of similar character and name, containing from one to half a dozen houses each, are to be met with in a few miles above the Little Manito rocks. Almost every settler, who has established himself on the Missouri, is confidently expecting that his farm is, in a few years, to become the seat of wealth and business, and the mart for an extensive district.[113]

The banks of the Missouri, in this part, present an alternation of low alluvial bottoms and rocky cliffs. Roche à Pierce Creek is a small stream entering nearly opposite another, called Splice Creek, a few miles above the Manito rocks. Here is a range of rocky cliffs, penetrated by numerous cavities and fissures, {81} hence called by the French boatmen, Roche a Piercè, and giving name to the creek.[114] These rocks we found filled with organic remains, chiefly encrinites. About eight or ten miles above this point the Missouri again washes the base of the rocky hills, which bound its immediate valley. The rocks advance boldly to the brink of the river, exhibiting a perpendicular front, variegated with several colours arranged in broad stripes. Here is a fine spring of water gushing out at the base of the precipice; over it are several rude paintings executed by the Indians. These cliffs are called the Big Manito rocks, and appear to have been objects of peculiar veneration with the aborigines, and have accordingly received the name of their Great Spirit.

It is not to be understood that the general surface of the country, of which we are now speaking, is traversed by continuous ridges, which, in their course across the valley of the Missouri, occasion the alternation of hill and plain; which to a person ascending the river, forms the most conspicuous feature of the country. The immediate valley of the Missouri preserves great uniformity in breadth, and is bounded on both sides by chains of rocky bluffs rising from one to two hundred feet above the surface of the included valley, and separating it from those vast woodless plains which overspread so great a part of the country. Meandering from right to left along this valley the river alternately washes the base of the bluffs on either side, while, from a person passing up or down the stream, the heavy forests intercept the view of the bluffs, except at the points where they are thus disclosed. Opposite the Big Manito rocks, and the island of the same name, is the Little Saline river, on the left side; and three or four miles above, on the opposite side, a stream called the Big Manito Creek.[115] Here we passed the night of the 12th July. About midnight so violent a storm arose that we were {82} compelled to leave our encampment on shore, the tent being blown down, and to seek shelter on board the boat. Though the storm did not continue long, the water fell to the depth of one inch and an half.

After taking in a supply of wood, we departed on the morning of the 13th, and the same day arrived at Franklin. This town, at present, increasing more rapidly than any other on the Missouri, had been commenced but two years and an half before the time of our journey. It then contained about one hundred and twenty log houses of one story, several framed dwellings of two stories, and two of brick, thirteen shops for the sale of merchandize, four taverns, two smiths' shops, two large team-mills, two billiard-rooms, a court-house, a log prison of two stories, a post-office, and a printing-press issuing a weekly paper. At this time bricks were sold at ten dollars per thousand, corn at twenty-five cents per bushel, wheat one dollar, bacon at twelve and a half cents per pound, uncleared lands from two to ten or fifteen dollars per acre. The price of labour was seventy-five cents per day.

In 1816 thirty families only of whites, were settled on the left side of the Missouri, above Cote Sans Dessein. In three years, their numbers had increased to more than eight hundred families.

The Missouri bottoms about Franklin are wide, and have the same prolific and inexhaustible soil as those below. The labour of one slave is here reckoned sufficient for the culture of twenty acres of Indian corn, and produces ordinarily about sixty bushels per acre, at a single crop. In the most fertile parts of Kentucky, fifteen acres of corn are thought to require the labour of one slave, and the crop being less abundant, we may reckon the products of agriculture there, at about one third part less than in the best lands on the Missouri. Franklin is the seat of {83} justice for Howard county. It stands on a low and recent alluvial plain, and has behind it a small stagnant creek. The bed of the river, near the shore, has been heretofore obstructed by sand-bars, which prevented large boats from approaching the town; whether this evil will increase or diminish, it is not possible to determine; such is the want of stability in every thing belonging to the channel of the Missouri. It is even doubtful whether the present site of Franklin will not, at some future day, be occupied by the river, which appears to be at this time encroaching on its bank. Similar changes have happened in the short period since the establishments of the first settlements on the Missouri. The site of St. Anthony, a town which existed about thirteen years since, near Bon Homme, is now occupied by the channel of the river. Opposite Franklin is Boonsville, containing, at the time of our visit, eight houses, but having, in some respects, a more advantageous situation, and probably destined to rival, if not surpass, its neighbour.[116]

Numerous brine springs are found in the country about Franklin. Boon's Lick, four miles distant, was the earliest settlement in this vicinity, and for some time gave name to the surrounding country. Some furnaces have been erected, and salt is manufactured, in sufficient quantities to supply the neighbouring settlements. Compact limestone appears to be the prevailing rock, but it is well known that the coal-beds, and strata of sand-stone, occur at a little distance from the river.[117] We visited one establishment for the manufacture of salt. The brine is taken from a spring at the surface of the earth, and is not remarkably concentrated, yielding only one bushel of salt to each four hundred and fifty gallons. Eighty bushels are manufactured daily, and require three cords of wood for the evaporation of the water. The furnace consists of a chimney-like funnel, rising obliquely along the side of a hill, {84} instead of the vertical and horizontal flues, commonly used in these manufactories. The fire being kindled in the lower orifice of this, the ascent of the air drives the flame against forty or fifty iron pots, inserted in a double series; to these the water is conveyed by small pipes. The banks of the ravine in which this spring rises, still retain the traces of those numerous herds of bisons, elk, and other herbivorous animals, which formerly resorted here for their favourite condiment.

While at Franklin, the gentlemen of the exploring party received many gratifying attentions, particularly from Gen. T. A. Smith, at whose house they were often hospitably received, and where they all dined by invitation on the 17th of July.[118] Here we met several intelligent inhabitants of the village, and of the surrounding country, from whose conversation we were able to collect much information of the character of the country, and the present condition of the settlements.

Mr. Munroe, a resident of Franklin, related to us, that being on a hunting excursion, in the year 1816, he remained some time on a branch of the Le Mine river, where he found the relics of the encampment of a large party of men, but whether of white troops, or Indian warriors, he could not determine. Not far from this encampment, he observed a recent mound of earth, about eight feet in height, which he was induced to believe must be a cachè, or place of deposit, for the spoils which the party, occupying the encampment, had taken from an enemy, and which they could not remove with them on their departure. He accordingly opened the mound, and was surprised to find in it the body of a white officer, apparently a man of rank, and which had been interred with extraordinary care.

The body was placed in a sitting posture, upon an Indian rush mat, with its back resting against some logs placed around it in the manner of a log house, enclosing {85} a space of about three by five feet, and about four feet high, covered at top with a mat similar to that beneath. The clothing was still in sufficient preservation to enable him to distinguish a red coat, trimmed with gold lace, golden epaulets, a spotted buff waistcoat, finished also with gold lace, and pantaloons of white nankeen. On the head was a round beaver hat, and a bamboo walking stick, with the initials J. M. C. engraved upon a golden head, reclined against the arm, but was somewhat decayed where it came in contact with the muscular part of the leg. On raising the hat, it was found that the deceased had been hastily scalped.

To what nation this officer belonged, Mr. Munroe could not determine. He observed, however, that the button taken from the shoulder, had the word Philadelphia moulded upon it. The cane still remains in the possession of the narrator, but the button was taken by another of his party.

In relation to this story, Gen. Smith observed, that when he commanded the United States' troops in this department, he was informed of an action that had taken place near the Le Mine, in the Autumn of 1815, between some Spanish dragoons, aided by a few Pawnee Indians, and a war party of Sauks and Foxes. In the course of this action, a Spanish officer had pursued an Indian boy, who was endeavouring to escape with a musket on his shoulder, but who finding himself nearly overtaken, had discharged the musket behind him at random, and had killed the officer on the spot. The skirmish continuing, the body was captured, and recaptured several times, but at last remained with the Spanish party. This may possibly have been the body discovered by Mr. Munroe, but by whom it was buried, in a manner so singular, is unknown.

About the middle of July, the summer freshets in the Missouri began to subside at Franklin. On the {86} 17th the water fell twelve inches, though in the preceding week more than two inches of rain had fallen. We were informed that the floods had continued longer this year, and had risen higher than usual, owing to the unusual quantities of rain that had fallen.

FOOTNOTES:

[103] Of Gasconade in 1823 it is said, "very few buildings are as yet erected, and it is very doubtful whether its increase will be as rapid as was anticipated." It was the first seat of Gasconade County, but was supplanted by Hermann. At present its population numbers less than one hundred.

The description of Gasconade River is adequate. The "Yungar" fork of Osage is now called Niangua (Osage word for bear).--ED.

[104] Au Vase (Muddy) has been corrupted to Auxvasse, and there are now two streams in Callaway County bearing this name. The larger, also called Big Muddy Creek, is the first important stream above the Gasconade. Bear (or Loose) Creek, is seven miles farther up, and the second Auxvasse, which answers the description in the text, is just beyond. Other tributaries are Deer Creek, from the south, just above Big Muddy River, and Middle River, from the north, opposite Bear Creek. The stream called Revoe's Creek a few lines below, is now Rivaux (Rivals) Creek.

For Côte Sans Dessein, see Bradbury's _Travels_, comprising our