Category: Travel Writing

Jamaica as it is, 1903

Mandeville, _1st January 1903_.—“Our horizon is not limited by the things of time. The expectation we entertain of a future life tends to make us view things in their true proportion.”

Chapters

1. CHAPTER I

2. CHAPTER II

3. CHAPTER IV

4. CHAPTER V

5. CHAPTER IX

6. CHAPTER X

7. CHAPTER XI

8. CHAPTER XII

9. CHAPTER XIII

10. CHAPTER XVI

11. CHAPTER XVII

12. CHAPTER XIX

13. CHAPTER XX

14. CHAPTER XXI

15. CHAPTER I

Mandeville, _1st January 1903_.—“Our horizon is not limited by the things of time. The expectation we entertain of a future life tends to make us view things in their true propo...

16. CHAPTER II

I have found during my short stay in Jamaica that it is not wise to pin too much faith to the gospel of the West Indies, according to J. A. Froude, nor is it discreet to quote i...

17. CHAPTER III

There were two persons, however, whose arrival by the _Port Antonio_ was looked for with feelings of great expectation by a certain class of people living in this island, and wh...

18. CHAPTER IV

Without unduly congratulating ourselves as first-class colonists, I think we can fairly say that the black is at his best under British rule. He has learnt industrial arts. The...

19. CHAPTER V

We had delightful weather some days before our arrival at Kingston; the sunsets were magnificent, the beautiful colouring of the after-glow I shall never forget. I remember two...

20. CHAPTER VI

Before I launch out into ecstasies over the tropical scenery, and the luxuriant multiplicity of the flora of this island, I intend to rid my memory of certain precautionary info...

21. CHAPTER VII

Two or three days after my arrival at Constant Spring Hotel, I began to feel that my West Indian experiences would lack any degree of thoroughness if I did not include a journey...

22. CHAPTER VIII

I have been interrupted in my writing this morning by listening to a very entertaining conversation going on between two maid-servants, both pure negresses, as to whether pink o...

23. CHAPTER IX

It was on the 2nd of December, 1902, that I left Kingston for my trip to some of the islands in the Caribbean Sea, in company with a couple of fellow-passengers who had journeye...

24. CHAPTER X

I do not intend to relate my experiences day by day from the time that I joined the Royal Mail Company’s steamship _E——_, but it behoves me to explain once more to those who wou...

25. CHAPTER XI

Since my object in putting pen to paper is to recount my Jamaican experiences of the winter of 1902-3, it will not be fitting, and it might be monotonous, to describe each islan...

26. CHAPTER XII

I breakfasted with friends at Myrtle Bank Hotel, was delighted to find a number of letters awaiting me at the post-office. I then betook myself at ten o’clock that morning to th...

27. CHAPTER XIII

Kingston, _March 1903_.—After passing Kendal, a place well known for its yearly agricultural shows, I stopped at a station called Balaclava, where my friend in her buggy met me....

28. CHAPTER XIV

I had been told by a coffee-planter, whose dealings with his black labourers had been somewhat acrimonious, that they had “set Obi” for him. Although the matter in dispute betwe...

29. CHAPTER XV

If there is one thing more interesting to the unbiassed traveller than others, it is to hear and analyse the various opinions expressed upon the subject he or she is attempting...

30. CHAPTER XVI

After winding through the mountainous regions of the Cockpit Country, the train traverses a part known as Surinam Quarters. When the Dutch settled here in 1672 they intermarried...

31. CHAPTER XVII

The mountains round Montego Bay were the scene of a long and unrelenting struggle between the forces of the government and the Maroons. After a prolonged struggle blood-hounds f...

32. CHAPTER XVIII

Returning from Montego Bay, I went by rail to Ewarton, which is in the centre of Jamaica. To go there I had to change at Spanish Town, which is 10 miles or so from Kingston. The...

33. CHAPTER XIX

Returning to Kingston I took up my quarters for a short time at Myrtle Bank Hotel. A delicious sea-breeze cooled the air during the daytime, whilst at night one could sleep bett...

34. CHAPTER XX

In briefly reviewing the past history, and in contemplating the present state of the Church of England in this colony, there are no words which present themselves to my mind wit...

35. CHAPTER XXI

If Jamaica was known as the white man’s grave in a bygone age, it has now completely changed its character. Twenty-five years ago Chief-Justice Cockburn declared that “there was...