CHAPTER XI

_LAPPETS AND SWIVELS_

_Lappet and Swivel Weaving._--The only classes of figured weaving of any importance not already mentioned are lappet and swivel work, both of which are very limited, but produce good effects. With lappets, figures can be put on light fabrics without requiring any cutting off of the surplus yarn. It is principally in the muslin trade that they are used, for figuring Indian fabrics with gay colours. The principal seat of the manufacture in this country is about Glasgow. The figure is formed by an extra warp drawn through one or more frames of gauzing needles set in the lay in front of the reed, which can be moved to either side as desired. The pattern is cut on a large wooden wheel or disc, in the face of which a groove is cut to form the pattern, and a traveller working in this groove, and connected with the needle frame, slides the needles to either side and stitches the figuring warp into the cloth, the needles rising and falling as the cloth is being woven. The figure is rather loose and only suited for simple effects. A description of the process of working can be found in Murphy’s or Gilroy’s works on weaving, and is interesting, though rather out of date. Swivel work is of a much better class, though not so suitable for getting small figures, as spots short distances apart. But it gives a much better bound figure--in fact, it may be bound in any way--and is very suitable when a few are required on the fabric, such as crests, or any figures in the corners or centres of handkerchiefs, napkins, etc. These are weft figures and usually of a different colour to the ground of the fabric, which may be either plain or figured. These figures could be formed with an ordinary box loom, cutting off the loose weft or binding it up to the ground cloth; but the latter is useless for light fabrics, and the former leaves the figure unbound round the edges. If the figure is large enough it can be made in an ordinary check or pick-and-pick loom, and bound as with swivels. The swivels are small shuttles similar to those used for weaving silk book-markers and such like fabrics, and are usually attached to the hand rail of the lay of the loom. The swivel attachment is fixed so that when a shed is opened the shuttle falls to pass through it, or a second high shed may be opened for the swivel shuttle. The shuttle is driven by means of a rack and pinion, the former being in the shuttle, and the pinions fixed to revolve in the frame. When the pinions are revolved the shuttle is drawn across. The breadth of the figures must be considerably less than the length of the shuttle, so that for large-sized figures this method of working is not suited.

CONCLUSION

Since the foregoing was written up to the present time (Sept. 1894) nothing new worth describing has made its appearance. A few card lacing machines have been brought out and several patents have appeared in print, but most of these disappear shortly after.

No mention has been made in this work of Count Sparres’ patent card-cutting machine, which was to have done away with the necessity of putting patterns on point paper by cutting the cards direct from the sketch embossed on a metallic plate. This was a highly ingenious machine, and under suitable conditions produced very fair work, but so far it has proved rather expensive to the company that took it up.

Another process to obtain similar results, patented by Messrs. Dawson and Adams of Macclesfield, was described in the ‘Textile Manufacturer’ in 1893. In this process a perforated plate is filled with small pins; a piece of strong paper is laid over this, and over the paper another plate. The pattern is formed by pushing the pins through the paper between the plates. A large portion of this work can be done by mechanical means. When all the pins required for the pattern are pressed through the paper, the top plate with the sheet of paper is turned upside down, the pins sticking in the paper. By running a roller over the paper the pins can be pressed out of it and into the plate. This plate is then put into a reading and punching machine, and by suitable mechanism the pins can be brought to act on either a card-punching apparatus or on the harness of a pattern loom; so the manufacturer can have a sample of the cloth woven without any cards and can have the cards cut for the factory loom afterwards if he requires them. The cards can be punched at the rate of 2000 per hour.

By means of a pattern cut out of a plate of wax, and a reading in machine, the filling of the pins into the plate, or the hand reading as it is called, can be dispensed with.

It has since been stated that this firm are now trying to perfect a process which was tried thirty years ago, viz. to paint the pattern with electric paint which is to act on needles charged with electricity.

These are all highly ingenious inventions, and are interesting to those who do not lose too much by them; but it will require a nice machine to produce all the variations in a pattern that an experienced designer can, though in many patterns this could be dispensed with, and suitable mechanical means may yet be devised to take a share of the work.

INDEX

Axminster carpets, 266, 288

Barrel or cylinder loom, 17 Beeting a harness, 89 Bessrook machine, 185 Border design, 97, 100, 115, 134 -- mountings, 105 Bouchon’s loom, 18 Brussels carpets, 27

Cards, 51, 147 Card cutting, 139 -- -- machines, 143 -- -- -- (Count Sparres’), 299 -- -- -- (French), 167 -- frames, 47, 156 -- lacing, 139 -- -- machines, 148 -- repeating machines, 149 Carpets, 264 -- chenille, 290 -- Axminster, 266, 288 -- Brussels, 276 -- Indian, 265 -- Ingrain, 269 -- Kidderminster, 266 -- patent Axminster, 289 -- Persian, 265 -- royal Axminster, 288 -- Scotch, 266 -- tapestry, 285 -- Turkish, 265 -- Wilton, 284 Centred tie, 97 Chenille, 290 Comb draw loom, 16 Comber boards, 82, 103 Cross-border jacquard, 155 Cross’s counterpoise harness, 14 Cumber boards, 82, 103 Curtains and tapestries, 248 Cylinder motions (horizontal), 44 -- (self-acting), 36 -- (slide), 43, 57, 61 -- (swing), 33, 56, 58 -- to set a, 40, 43

Designing and draughting, 110 -- hints on, 120 Design paper, 112 -- to prepare a, 115 Designs, 94, 97, 100 -- for dress goods, 122 -- for gathered borders, 97 -- for single borders, 100 -- (repeating), 94, 122 -- (texture), 124 Double cloth, 233 -- -- jacquard, 241 -- warp faced cloth, 237 -- weft faced cloth, 235 Draughting a pattern, 115 Draw loom, 3 -- -- French, 24 Drawing in a warp, 99

Falcon’s loom, 19 French card, 51 -- -- cutting machine, 167 -- draw loom, 24 -- jacquard, 49 Full harness, 69 -- -- mountings, 69

Gathered tie, 97 Gauze, 196 -- to design a pattern, 215 -- harness (hand-loom), 203 -- -- (power-loom), 205 Gauze, jacquard, 214, 223 -- patterns, 197, 198, 217 -- reed, 225 Griffes, 37, 52

Hair-line patterns, 129 Half-harness, 69, 169 Harness, drawing warp into, 99 -- illustrations of, 96, 98, 102, 191 -- to prepare a, 71 -- to tie up a, 87 -- (double cloth), 233 -- (full), 69 -- (gauze), 203, 205 -- (half), 69, 169 -- (muslin), 169 -- (pressure), 70, 174 -- (quilting), 233 -- reeds, 82 -- (split), 62, 172 -- twine, 75 Hecks, 77 Hole board, 83 Hooks for jacquard, 38, 39, 52, 59 -- in double-acting jacquard, 55, 59

Indian carpets, 265 Ingrain carpets, 269 Introduction, 1

Jacquard’s machine, 23 Jacquard machines, 27 -- (cross-border), 155 -- (double-acting), 52 -- (double cloth), 241 -- (double-acting with two cylinders), 58 -- (French), 49 -- (gauze), 214 -- (Karl Wein), 192 -- (leno), 214 -- (open-shed), 161 -- (quilting), 241 -- (twilling), 185 -- (Verdôl), 163 -- cards, 50 -- cylinder, to set a, 40, 43 -- hooks, 38, 39, 52, 59 -- interior of, 38 -- needles, 38, 39, 52, 59 -- shedding, 60, 62 -- stop motion, 64 -- to set a, 43, 46, 76

Karl Wein jacquard, 192 Kidderminster carpet, 266

Lacing cards, 139 -- machine, 148 -- twine, 147 Lappet weaving, 298 Lashing a pattern, 9 Leno jacquard, 214 Letters, mottoes, &c., 136 Levelling frames, 85 -- the mails, 86 Lingoes, 72, 74 London tie, 96

Marking off a cumber board, 103 Marseilles quilt, 246 Matelasses, 246 Mottoes and letters, 136 Mountings, 69 Muslin harness, 169

Neck of harness, 79 Needles, 38 Norwich tie, 95

Open-shed jacquard, 161

Paints for patterns, 116 Parrot machine, 11 Patent Axminster carpet, 289 Pattern, to draught a, 115 Patterns (carpet), 280, 282-3 -- (gauze), 197, 217 -- (hair-line), 129 -- (spot), 130 -- (texture), 124 Persian carpets, 265 Piano machine, 145 Pile work, 259 Point paper, 112 Poplins, 252 Pressure harness, 174

Quilting, 247 Quilting harness, 233

Reading a pattern, 9 Repeat of a pattern, 94 Repeating machines, 149 Reversing motions, 45 Royal Axminster carpets, 28

Scotch carpets, 266 Set of harness (to vary), 106 Setting a jacquard, 43, 46, 76 Shading floral forms, 118 Shedding of jacquards, 62 Simple (draw loom), 3 Slabstock, 85 Sleepers, 73 Slips (comber board), 83 Split harness, 172 Spot patterns, 131 Spring box, 42 Stop motion, 64 Suggestions on design, 120 Swivel weaving, 298

Tail cords, 54 Tapestry (real), 255 -- carpets, 285 -- curtains, 248 Terry pile, 260 Texture patterns, 124 Tie of a harness, 93 Trap board, 15 Turkey carpets, 265 Turkish towels, 260 Twilling designs, 117, 133 -- jacquards, 185 Twills for damask, 181 Tying up a harness, 87

Varnishing a harness, 92 Varying the set of a harness, 106 Vaucanson’s loom, 22 Verdôl jacquard, 49, 163

Wilton carpets, 284 Wiring cards, 153 Woollens and worsteds, 248

PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE LONDON

Transcriber's notes:

In the text version, italics are represented by _underscores_, and bold and black letter text by =equals= symbols. Superscripts are represented by ^{} and subscripts by _{}.

Missing or incorrect punctuation has been repaired. Inconsistent spelling and hyphenation have been left as printed.

The following mistakes have been noted:

p. 15. boars has been changed to bars. Misaligned typeface has half duplicated the first letter of each line on this page.

p. 26. Both trapboard and trap board have been used in the text and have been left as printed.

p. 35. cyiinder has been changed to cylinder.

p. 65. 2 4 6 8 13 12 changed to 2 4 6 8 10 12.

p. 134. coarses has been changed to coarser.

p. 132. fig. 3 has been changed to Fig. 3 as used in all other cases.

p. 141. cyclinder has been changed to cylinder

p. 208. tightly paced should probably read spaced or placed, but has been left as printed.

End of Project Gutenberg's Jacquard Weaving and Designing, by T. F. Bell