Chapter 5

After this the defile opens up to close again between serpentine cliffs. It then crosses the 2 Ponts de Parabuja and the viaduct de l'Inzecca, and reaches the entrance to the Passage de l'Inzecca, 7 m. from Ghisoni, 985 ft. above the sea, where the road is cut through great serpentine rocks. This is the most difficult part for the waggons to pass. Map, p. 27.

The plain now widens, and 8 m. from Ghisoni a branch road leads to Vezzani.

Nine and a quarter miles from Ghisoni is the Col S. Antoine, 355 ft., and 8¾ m. farther is Ghisonaccia, p. 32.

Sartène to Bonifacio.

33 miles south-east, by diligence; time, 6 hours.

miles from SARTÈNE miles to BONIFACIO

{ }{33} SARTÈNE. The road winds its way through great blocks of granite scattered on a plain studded with shrubby specimens of the ilex, towards the shore of the Golfo di Roccapina, with a fantastically shaped rock called il Leone Coronato. East from the gulf the road passes the village of Pianottoli, 21 m. from Sartène, almost due south from the singular mountain l'Uomo di Cagna, 3980 ft.; then the bridge across the Figari at the head of the Gulf of Figari, 23 m.; the Col de la Testa or Scopeto, 225 ft., 24 m.; and the bridge across the Ventilegni, 27 m. from Sartène, and 6 from Bonifacio.

[Headnote: BONIFACIO.]

{33} BONIFACIO, pop. 4000. H. du Nord; France in the high town. Diligences leave daily for Bastia, Sartène, and Ajaccio. A steamer arrives every Saturday from Ajaccio and returns on the Monday. Bonifacio was founded in 833 by the Tuscan marquis whose name it bears, to protect this part of the island against the piratical incursions of the Saracens. The high town is built on the top of a limestone rock rising vertically from the sea. The low town occupies one side of the fine natural dock, hemmed in by perpendicular cliffs with an opening of only 328 yards towards the sea. From the steamboat wharf a broad paved series of steps leads up to the high town, entering it through the Porte Vieille. In the old house fronting this Porte or gateway, Charles V., in 1541, stayed two days and a night on his return from his unsuccessful expedition against Algiers. Overtaken by a storm, he had taken refuge in the Gulf of Santa Manza. The door of the house, decorated with an arabesque on marble, is in the narrow side street. In the Place d'Armes are the church of San Domenico, built by the Templars, characterised by its octagonal tower with an embrasured termination; and the great tower "Torrione," part of the fortifications built by the marquis, and formerly the most important part of the citadel. Near this tower is the flight of steps "Redragon," cut in the rock by the Genoese, which descends by 202 steps to the sea. The small room over the gateway of the citadel, opposite the house of Charles V., was inhabited by Napoleon for nearly eight months. There are grand sea-views from the ramparts. The town consists of tall, dingy houses, and narrow, steep, and in most cases dirty streets. The promenade of Bonifacio is the small covered terrace before the church of Santa Maria. Here also is the public cistern.

Of the numerous caves which pierce the base of the rock of Bonifacio, the most remarkable one enters from the sea, 214 feet below the Place d'Armes, and extends to an unknown distance. It contains a freshwater lake, which rises and falls with the tide. A staircase with a vaulted roof and consisting of 337 steps leads down to this lake. The water is brought up to the surface by a force pump, is perfectly transparent, with a slight calcareous taste. In the high town there are 39 private and one public cistern, in which the rain water from the roofs is stored up. The low town has a well supplied from a stream by an aqueduct. The afternoon is the best time to visit the caves. A boat for one or party should not cost more than 5 frs. The finest, the Dragonetta, cannot be visited when the sea is rough.

On Monte Pertusato (the south extremity of Corsica), 2 miles S.E. from Bonifacio, is a lighthouse of the first order, 325 feet above the sea. The southern promontory is pierced by a cavern hung with stalactites.

Bonifacio to Bastia.

103 miles; diligence to Ghisonaccia, 50 m. N., the rest by rail.

miles from BONIFACIO miles to BASTIA

{ }{103} BONIFACIO. The diligence, after passing the Col Finocchio, 354 feet, 2½ miles N. from Bonifacio, the Maison Francola, 7 miles, the bridge across the Stabiacco, 16 miles, and the Col Mattonara, 17½ miles (whence the Route Forestière, No. 11, ascends 14 miles west into the forest of the Ospedale), arrives in 3 hours at

[Headnote: PORTO-VECCHIO.]

{27}{76} PORTO-VECCHIO, pop. 2740. Hôtel Amis. Surrounded by its old walls, and at the head of a beautiful gulf. The surrounding country is fertile, but unhealthy during the hot weather, on account of the miasma rising from the morasses and lagoons. To the N. of Porto, the mountains still approach near to the sea; but beyond Solenzara (where the diligence halts) 41½ miles from Bonifacio, they recede and leave free those great undulating plains which characterise the eastern coast of Corsica--plains almost uninhabited and covered with heaths. From the north side of the Travo commences a series of large lakes swarming with fish and a kind of cockle. They are separated from the sea by long narrow sandbanks, like earthen break-waters. The malaria prevails from June to October, but even then only the night should be avoided in travelling along this coast. The road after passing by the hamlet of Favona, 33 m., arrives at

[Headnote: SOLENZARA.]

{45}{58} SOLENZARA. Whence a wheel road extends westwards into the forest of Bavella by the Col Bavella 18½ m. S.W., and the Col Scalella, 22 m., 2982 ft. to Zonza, 24½ m. from Solenzara; 4 m. farther is the village of S. Gavino di Carbini, 2292 ft., and other 2½ m. the village of Levie; 30 m. S.W. from Solenzara, and 10½ from Propriano is S. Lucia de Tallano, on the highroad to Aullene (see p. 27), and for continuation of this road to Propriano see p. 26.

The road to Bastia, after passing the Travo, 44 m., Vicchiseri, 46 m., and Casamozza, 48½ m., arrives at the railway station of

[Headnote: GHISONACCIA.]

{53}{50} GHISONACCIA, pop. 850. On the Fium Orbo, 36 m. S.E. from Corté. From this a department road of 4½ m. leads to the hot sulphurous baths of Pietrapola, with a large hotel in a healthy situation.

From Ghisonaccia a carriage road extends N.W. to the villages of Poggio-di-Nazza, 9½ m., and Lugo-di-Nazza, 11½ m. From Ghisonaccia railway station a forest road extends 18 m. N.W. to Ghisoni, where it joins the high road between Sartène and Vivario (p. 29). The southern prolongation of this road leads to Zicavo, Petreto, Bicchisano, and Portopollo, on the Gulf of Valinco.

Forty-six m. from Bastia is Casabianda. H. Perett; a village situated on a well-cultivated estate belonging to the government; formerly used as an agricultural penitentiary for juvenile criminals. In the hot season it is safer to pass the night at Casabianda than at Aleria.

[Headnote: ALERIA.]

miles from BONIFACIO miles to BASTIA

{58¼}{44¾} ALERIA. Inn. The capital of Corsica till the invasion of the Saracens in the 4th cent., now a poor village with an old Genoese fort, situated at the mouth of the Tavignano, 1¼ m. from the Etang de Diane. Ancient Aleria, the colony founded by the dictator Sulla about 82 B.C., occupied both banks of the Tavignano, which waters one of the finest plains in the world, where winter is unknown. The site of the town was well selected. The population was probably 20,000.

It was at Aleria that Theodore Neuhoff, a native of Altona, in Germany, landed to have himself proclaimed King of Corsica, March 1736. He died a pauper in London, and was buried in an obscure corner of St. Anne's churchyard, Soho. On a mural tablet against the exterior wall, west end, is the following epitaph written by Horace Walpole:--"Near this place is interred Theodore, King of Corsica, who died in this parish, Dec. 11, 1756, immediately after leaving the King's Bench prison, by the benefit of the Act of Insolvency. In consequence of which, he registered his kingdom of Corsica for the use of his creditors." His capital was Cervione. The lake de Diane is a great sheet of salt water with one narrow opening to the sea. It formed the harbour of Aleria, and was provided with quays, of which a vestige still remains. The lake contains an island 460 yards in circumference, composed of oyster shells covered with luxurious vegetation. Fish, and a cockle a species of Venerupis, inhabit the brackish water of the lake.

ALERIA TO CORTÉ.

Coach every other day; fare, 5 francs; time, 4 hours.

Thirty-one and a half m. N.W., by a picturesque road up the course of the Tavignano, passing Cateraggio, 2 m., Rotani, 5 m., commencement of bridle path leading N. to Tallone, 7½ m., Tox, 9½ m., Campo, 11 m., and Moïta, 12½ m. Seven m. farther up the main road a ramification extends N. to Giuncaggio, 4½ m., and to Pancheraccia, 5½ m.

Up the main road, 21½ m. from Aleria, and near the bridge across the Vecchio, a bridle path strikes off S. to Rospigliani, 5 m., and Vezzani, 6½ m. A little higher a ramification extends 5 m. W. to Serraggio (p. 8). The road, after passing several other ramifications with the Corté and Ajaccio road, arrives at Corté, p. 8.

Ten m. W. from Aleria are the cold saline sulphurous springs of Puzzichello, 190 ft., considered efficacious in the cure of syphilitic diseases, resembling in this property the water of Aulus in the Pyrenees. See Black's _South France_, West Half (Pyrenees).

[Headnote: PRUNETE.--CERVIONE.--ALESANI.]

miles from BONIFACIO miles to BASTIA

{79}{24} PRUNETE. _Inn:_ Gaetan. Junction with road to Ponte alla Leccia, 44 m. N.W. (p. 9), leading through a region of chestnut trees and past many villages on the mountains, built chiefly on terraces. A coach runs from the station to Alesani called also Castagneto 1938 ft. 14 m. W.; ascending by Muchieto 808 ft. 3¾ m., Cervione 1073 ft. 4½ m., pop. 1000; _Inns:_ France: Voyageurs: an untidy village, once the capital of King Theodore's realm. From Cervione the road describes a long detour to the bridge across the Chebbia, whence it ascends to Cotone 1008 ft 6¼ m., the Col d'Aja 1236 ft., and Ortale 1489 ft., 1¾ m. from Alesani. Good red wine is made in the neighbourhood of Cervione. The dirty little village of Castagneto or Alesani is picturesquely situated on the side of a mountain overlooking a valley covered with chestnut trees. The diligence stops at an inn, where bread, eggs and coffee with goats' milk can be had and a comfortable bed. A char-a-banc from this inn to Piedicroce (Orezza) costs 10 frs., time 2½ hours, 11 miles. For Orezza, see p. 34. Passengers from Prunete to Piedicroce or Stazzona should not stop at Cervione but continue the diligence route to Castagneto, whence start next morning. The drive between Castagneto and Piedicroce, 11 miles, is by far the most beautiful part of the road. The highest part of the Col d'Arcarotta is a narrow ridge between the valleys of Orezza and Ortia, commanding a charming view. See also p. 35.

{87¼}{24¾} PADULELLA. Four and a quarter miles west by a good road is San Nicolao, pop. 600.

[Headnote: STAZZONA.]

{84¼}{18¾} FOLELLI-Orezza station. Junction with road to Piedicroce 14¼ m. S.W.; by the course of the Fium'alto, the Chestnut country, and the village of Stazzona, 13¼ m. from Folelli, ¼ m. from and 355 ft. under Piedicroce, and 1 m. from and 200 ft. above the spring of Orezza. The coach from the station stops at Stazzona, pop. 250. _Hotels_: *Paix, Casino. Very fine oleanders in the gardens. On the opposite side of the valley of the Fium'alto is Granajola, with the establishment Manfredi, 2016 ft. above the sea and 220 feet above the spring. The hotel Manfredi has the most select society, is the largest house, and its road from the spring is the least dusty; but as no public coach goes there it is necessary to hire a private conveyance either at Stazzona or Piedicroce, 3 or 4 miles. The charge in all the hotels is 7 frs. per day, not including coffee or tea in the morning. The hotels of Stazzona and the hotel Manfredi are the most convenient for the Spa drinkers; those of Piedicroce are too distant.

[Headnote: OREZZA.]

The Orezza spring is in the centre of a small terrace in the narrow valley of the Fium'alto, whose steep banks are covered with chestnut trees, and ascended by dusty winding roads. The water is a bicarbonate chalybeate, with an agreeable amount of free carbonic acid gas.

[Headnote: VESCOVATO.]

{89}{14} VESCOVATO STATION. Town 1¼ m. W., pop. 1500. *H. de Progreso in the large "Place" where all the coaches stop, near a fountain of pure gushing water, cold even in summer. The rather untidy town of Vescovato is almost hidden in the corner of a valley, 550 ft. above the sea, by woods of vigorous olive and chestnut trees. From it a coach starts daily to Porta, 15 m. W., by a bad, dusty, jolting road, passing through Venzolasca, pop. 1300, on the top of a hill, 732 ft., 1½ m. from Vescovato. Three m. farther a road, left, 1 m., leads to Porri, 1718 ft., pop. 300. 7½ m. from Vescovato is the Col S. Agostino, and then follow, 8 m., Silvareccio, 2198 ft., pop. 550; 8½ m., Piano, 2230 ft., pop. 170; Casabianca, 4 m. farther, 2133 ft.; and then Porta, pop. 630; _Inn:_ H. Franceschi, in the "Place," opposite the church, where the coach stops. In July and August the coach goes on to Piedicroce.

{91}{12} PONT DU GOLO. A little more than 3 miles from the bridge, at the mouth of the river, stood the town of Mariana, founded by Marius (B. 155, D. 86 B.C.), where Seneca most probably spent his exile, and of which there remain only a few insignificant fragments on the beach. In the vicinity are the ruins of a chapel, and about a mile farther those of the church, called La Canonica, with 2 aisles and a nave 100 feet long and 40 wide, ornamented with rows of pillars of the Doric order. Both church and chapel are in the Pisan style.

At Casamozza Station, 12½ m. S. from Bastia, the Aleria railway joins the one from Corté.

{103} BASTIA. See p. 10.

Ponte alla Leccia to Piedicroce.

Eighteen miles S.E. by "Courrier" daily. Fare 3 frs. Time 5 hours, by a mountain road, making immense circuits round by the heads of ravines among rich pastures and great chestnut and beech trees.

Nine miles from the Ponte is Morosaglia, pop. 1060, with an inn, where the coach stops. A conglomeration of hamlets on the slopes of a mountain, one of which, Stretta, was the birthplace of Pascal Paoli. 2 m. farther is the summit of the Col de Prato with an inn, 3215 ft., 2850 ft. below, or 3 hours from the top of San Pietro, commanding a magnificent view of the Castagniccia or the Chestnut country, and the islands of Monte Christo, Pianosa, and Elba, floating in the haze between sky and water. See map on fly-leaf.

[Headnote: CASTAGNICCIA.]

The Castagniccia may be said to lie between the Golo and the Tavignano, bounded on the W. by the railway. The chestnut trees are not so famous for their size as for the qualify of their fruit.

The coach having passed the hamlet of Campana arrives at

[Headnote: PIEDICROCE.]

Piedicroce, pop. 600, several inns, 2104 ft., 18 m. from Ponte alla Leccia, and 650 ft. above the spring of Orezza by a winding, dusty, bad wheel road, passing Stazzona 1978 ft. above the sea.

Although Piedicroce is not a suitable place for those who come to drink the Orezza water, it is an excellent centre for excursions, the favourite one being to the top of Monte S. Pietro 5795 ft. in 3 hours, by the cabins of Tajalto 4600 ft., and a beech forest. Mule to nearly the top. Guide and mule, 5 frs. See also above.

Coach in July and August to the Vescovato station by Porta, p. 34.

Piedicroce to Prunete Station, 26 m. S.E.

The continuation of the road from Ponte alla Leccia.

From Piedicroce the road passes by Pied'Orezza, 2106 ft., 1¾ m. from Piedicroce, Piedipartino, 2124 ft., 2 m.; Carcheto, 2172 ft., 3m.; Brustico, 2293 ft. 4 m.; the Col d'Arcarotta, 2698 ft., 5¼ m. from Piedicroce, between the richly wooded valleys of the Fium'alto and the Alesani, and commanding a very fine view of both. From this the road gradually descends to Prunete, the most beautiful part being from this Col to Castagneto called also Alesani, where there is an inn and whence a coach starts daily to Prunete Railway Station.

[Headnote: CASTAGNETO.]

Seven miles from Piedicroce and 2 from the Col is Ortia, 2638 ft., pop. 400, hidden among chesnut trees; Felce, 2570 ft., 8¾ m., pop. 400; Pied Alesani 11 m.; Querceto, 2041 ft., and Castagneto or Alesani, 1938 ft., 12 m. from Piedicroce and 14 from Prunete Railway Station, the principal village in this valley.

A little below Castagneto, at the commencement of this chestnut wooded valley is Ortale, 1489 ft., pop. 280. The coach then having passed Cotone 1008 ft., 19¼ m., pop. 800, and having crossed the little bridge over the stream Chebbia arrives at Cervione, _Inn_, France: 1073 ft., 21¾ m. from Piedicroce, and 4¼ from Prunete. From Cervione another coach descends to Prunete Railway Station by Muchieto 820 ft. Prunete consists of a few houses near the beach, resorted to by bathers in summer, situated on the highway between Bastia and Bonifacio. See also p. 33.

Solenzara to Sartène,

46 m. S.W. This forest road, No. 4, ascends the valley of the Solenzara, crosses the great S.E. range at the Col de Bavella, descends into the valley of the Rizzanese, passes through the villages of Zonza, San Gavino, Levie, and Ste. Lucie, and joins the highroad between Ajaccio and Bonifacio at the milestone 76·690 (47¾ m.) from Ajaccio, 3¾ m. from Sartène, and 42 m. from Solenzara.

The road, after passing up by the S. side of the river through olive groves and "maquis," arrives at the Col and Maison de Cantonniers de Castelluccio, 210 ft., 4 m. from Solenzara. Two m. farther by the Pont de Ghiadole, the road crosses the Solenzara by the Calzatojo bridge, 6 m. from Solenzara, 340 ft., winds upward by the deep gully of the Fiumicello, which having crossed by the bridge 7¼ m. from Solenzara, ascends a steep winding road bordered with great trees to the Maison de Cantonniers de Rocchio-Pinzuto, 8¾ m., 1060 ft., at the foot of the great cliff of that name.

The road still winding upwards passes the immense wall of reddish cliffs called the Rochers de Bavella before arriving at the Col de Larone 10¾ m., 2056 ft. The road, still winding, ascends a huge promontory between the torrents Fiumicello and S. Pietro, separating into two distinct parts the forest of Bavella, and crosses the Pont de Bocintoro, 1510 ft., 12 m. A little farther, in a wild yet beautiful situation, is the Maison de Cantonniers d'Arghiavara. From the Pont 1½ m. is the better house, la maison forestière de l'Alza, commanding superb views, situated among great trees and nursery gardens.

The ascent from this is by a steep road, almost impracticable for vehicles, through a forest of the stateliest and oldest pines in Corsica.

18 m. from Solenzara and 28 from Sartène is the Maison de Cantonniers de Bavella, 3885 ft., near the summit of the Col Bavella, 4068 ft. In this house of refuge there is generally comfortable accommodation and a supply of provisions. The surrounding huts are occupied in July and August by people from the plains about Solenzara, who come here to escape the fever-producing malaria. The house commands, even from the windows, grand views.

On the other side of the Col, 550 ft. below it and 2¼ m. from it, is the Maison de Cantonniers de Ballatojo, from which the road descends amidst great pines mixed with a few oaks and ilexes, in view of the Asinao forest and of the lofty granite pinnacled precipices, 10 m. long, between Mt. Colva, 4520 ft., and the Point Tintinaja, 6658 ft.

Zonza, good inn, pop. 1040, height 2582 ft., 24¼ m. from Solenzara and 21¾ m. from Sartène, hidden among chestnut trees and conveniently situated for visiting the forests of Zonza, Asinao, and Bavella.

[Headnote: S. GAVINO.]

3½ m. beyond is San Gavino di Carbini, pop. 770, height 2238 ft., a poor miserable village, where there existed in 1365 a sect of socialists, with whom even the women and children were held in common, and by whom were committed frightful abominations.

[Headnote: LEVIE.]

30 m. from Solenzara and 16 m. from Sartène is Levie, consisting of various hamlets. Inn where the coach, running between this and Sartène, stops. Pop, 2040, height 2238 ft This village, easily approached, is situated among mountains abounding with game. It commands superb views, and makes in April a very pleasant residence. In winter it is rather cold. On the road between Levie and Santa Lucia di Tallano, 5 ½ m. from the Col d'Aja Vignarsa, 2408 ft., are seen the valley of the Rizzanese and the Gulfs of Valinco and Ajaccio. On the grassy table lands of the Col d'Aja are many rare flowers, among others a species of red gladiolus.

[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.]

5½ m. W. from Levie and 11¼ from Sartène is Santa Lucia di Tallano, pop. 1300, Inn where the Sartène and Levie coach stops. S. Lucia is built in terraces on the hills rising from the Fiumicicoli. Church 14th cent. The wines grown in this neighbourhood command good prices in the Corsican market.

Below, on the Fiumicicoli, is a hot sulphurous spring. On the way down to the river by the sides of the Point Campolaccia, near a place called Campolajo, is beautiful hornblende, page 27.

From Santa Lucia the road leads southwards by the Rizzanese to Sartène, p. 27.

SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF CORSICA.

It is not known who the original inhabitants of Corsica were. The Phocæans of Ionia were the first civilised people that established settlements in Corsica. About the year 560 B.C. they landed on the island, and founded at the mouth of the Tavignano the city of Aleria, which after a short occupation they were compelled to abandon. After an interval of a few years they again returned, rebuilt Aleria, which they fortified, and endeavoured to maintain their ground against the natives. After a struggle of some years they were again compelled to leave the island. The next foreign occupants of Corsica were the Tuscans, who founded the city of Nicæa, but they in their turn were compelled to give way before the growing maritime power of the Carthaginians, whose jurisdiction in the island was unquestioned till the beginning of the first Punic War. On that occasion the Romans sent out a fleet, drove the Carthaginians from the island, and exacted at least a nominal homage from the native population. They did not, however, fully establish their power here till about thirty years later, and even then rebellions and revolts were of constant occurrence.

[Headnote: ROMAN COLONIES.]

The first step made towards the real subjugation of the island was the establishment of the two colonies on its eastern coast-that of Aleria by Sulla and that of Mariana by Marius. In the time of the emperors the island had fallen into disrepute among the Romans, by whom it was used chiefly as a place of banishment for political offenders. One of the most distinguished of these sufferers was the younger Seneca, who spent in this island eight years of banishment ending with 49 A.D.