Chapter 4

From Belgodere, Route Forestière, No. 3, leads down to the small port of Losari, 6 miles N. from Belgodere and 4½ E. from the Ile Rousse. A continuation of the same route southward extends to the bridge across the Tartagine, 2355 feet, 25 miles from the Ile Rousse, in the great forest of Tartagine. It passes the Bocca Campana, 2782 feet, 3¼ miles from Belgodere; the Bocca Croce, 3045 feet, the culminating part of the road, 7 miles from Belgodere; and 2½ miles farther, the hamlets of Olmi and Capella, 9 miles from Speloncato; with ever-varying mountain and village scenes among great forests; 20 m. from Belgodere is the Pont Tartagine in the forest of that name. The forest of Tartagine, enclosed within the high crests of the Capo Dente 6667 ft. on the west, and of Mt. Padro on the east, measures 7166 acres, and contains principally the _Pinus laricio_ and the _P. pinaster_, intermingled with ilexes or evergreen oaks (p. 41).

"Olmi-Capella 2723 ft. is in an open airy situation, commanding fine views of the mountains to the S. and S.W., and protected to some extent on the N. and N.W. by the ridge which sweeps round to the head of the Tartagine valley. This ridge, though in the neighbourhood of the village only about 1000 ft. above the sloping plateau on which it is built, rises to the W. into the peaks of Monte Tolo 4370 ft., Monte San Parteo 5512 ft., Monte Cineraggia 5286 ft., Monte Grosso 6227 ft., Punta Radiche 6595 ft., Capo al Dente 6667 ft., and Monte Corona 7031 ft. The N. slope of this ridge is very steep, and commands most magnificent views of the Haute Balagne and the sea beyond, whilst it is traversed by numerous passes which afford charming scenery. Besides the _route forestière_, which crosses the Col de Bocca Croce 3048 ft., and by which the timber of the forest of Tartagine is conveyed to Ile Rousse for shipment, several mule-paths connect Olmi Capella much more directly with Ville and Speloncato by the Bocca Battaglia 3550 ft., and Bocca Croce d'Ovo 3629 feet; with Feliceto by the Bocca Pianile 5033 ft.; with Zilia and Calvi by the Bocca di Cineraggia 4698 ft.; with Calenzana by the Bocca Bianca 6155 ft., with Calenzana or the Val Ficarella by the Bocca di Tartagine 6093 ft.; and with the head of the valley of Asco by the Bocca de l'Ondella 6086 ft."--F. F. Tuckett, Alpine Club.

[Headnote: PALASCA.]

miles from CALVI miles to CORTÉ

{28¾}{32¼} PALASCA, pop. 550. Situated lower down than the high road and the last village on this side of the

{31½}{29½} COL DE SAN COLOMBANO, 2625 feet above the sea. The view though more vast is less distinct, presenting a succession of mountain-tops, between which are dimly seen valleys with the sea in the distance. The diligence now descends into the narrow, rocky vale of the Navaccia, an affluent of the Tartagine, which enters the Golo a little above the important bridge called the

[Headnote: PONTE ALLA LECCIA.]

{46¾}{14¼} PONTE ALLA LECCIA. Inn at station. Here take rail for Corté (see p. 8) or for Bastia, 29 miles N.E. (see p. 10). The Ponte Nuovo is distinctly seen from the station. The two small houses near the railway bridge, on the S. side of the Golo, were Paoli's headquarters during the battle (see pp. 9 and 39).

{61} CORTÉ, see page 8.

Ajaccio to Vico and Evisa.

33 miles north; time 7 to 8 hours; fare 4 frs.

miles from AJACCIO miles to VICO

{ }{33} AJACCIO. At about two miles from the town the diligence commences the ascent of the low Col of Stileto, passing the aqueduct for the Gravona water. On the left hand are the granite quarries whence the large slabs were taken for the monument to Napoleon in the Place d'Armes, as well as the long blocks for the pillars of the Marseilles cathedral. To the right are the village of Appietto, pop. 700, on a hill and the great cliff Monte Gozzi, 656 feet high.

{12}{21} Summit of the COL ST. SEBASTIEN, 1344 feet above the sea, commanding a lovely prospect of the Bays of Liscia, Sagona and Cargésé, and of the valley of Cinarca, with its villages and vineyards. At the foot of the Col is a small inn called Le Repos des Voyageurs, where bread and wine and capital sea-urchins can be had. They are eaten raw, and taken out of the shell by cutting it in two horizontally.

{23}{10} SAGONA, junction with road to Calvi, 79 miles N. (see p. 17).

{31}{2} Summit of the COL ST. ANTOINE, 1488 feet. Near the top, at some distance to the left, is the village of Balogna, pop. 600, while in front is seen the splendid range of the Monte Rotondo, among which the most conspicuous is La Sposata, at the head of wooded valleys.

The road to the left or N. leads to Evisa, 18 miles from Vico, pop. 1000, and 2770 feet above the sea. _Hotel:_ Carrara, a comfortable house, where vehicles may be hired. Evisa is charmingly situated on the confines of the forest of Aïtone, containing 3,749 acres. Beyond Aïtone, or 11 miles from Evisa, is the large forest of Valdoniello, 11,483 acres. These forests, instead of extending monotonously on large plains, plunge into deep valleys, or creep up the sides of high mountains.

From Evisa descend to Porto (see p. 18).

[Headnote: VICO.]

miles from AJACCIO miles to VICO

{33} VICO, pop. 2020. _Inns:_ France, where the diligence stops; Voyageurs; Univers. Most picturesquely situated in the valley of the Liamone, surrounded by steep mountains covered with apple, peach, chestnut, walnut, olive and oak trees. On the opposite side of the valley is the large whitewashed convent of St. Francis, with terraced garden shaded by tall magnolias, beautifully placed on a thickly-wooded bank, above which is seen the small hamlet of Nessa. It is a favourite summer resort of the _élite_ of Ajaccio, who revel here on carpets of cyclamen, violets, and a profusion of other wild flowers, in the shade of the dense foliage of the chestnut groves around.

[Headnote: BATHS OF GUAGNO.]

Seven and a half miles from Vico up the wooded vale of the Liamone and by the Bridges of Silvani and Belfiori, the village of Murzo and the Col de Sorro, are the Baths of Guagno, with hot, sulphurous springs, resembling in their properties those of Bareges in the Pyrenees (see Black's _South France_). From May to September they are much frequented, when a coach runs between Vico and Guagno. Time, 2 hours; fare, 3 frs. Coaches can be hired at Vico for Evisa. Charge, 10 frs.

Ajaccio to Sartène.

53 m. S. by diligence, over a hilly road; 13 hrs.

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTÈNE

{ }{53} AJACCIO. The most comfortable way to go to Sartène is to take the steamer to Propriano, only 8 miles N. from Sartène, and there to await the daily coach. The diligence from Ajaccio, after having crossed the rivers Gravona, Prunelli, Agnone, Vergajolo and Margone, and the pass of Campolaccio, 843 feet, arrives at

[Headnote: CAURO.]

{12½}{40½} CAURO or CAVRO, 1180 ft. _Inn._ Coach to Bastelica. Pop. 700. A straggling mountain village, commanding extensive views.

Cauro to Bastelica.

12 m. northwards by "Courrier" by a charming forest road, which after crossing the Else at the Pont Zipitoli, 7 m. from Cauro, enters the defile of the Prunelli at the Col de Menta, about 2 m. from Bastelica.

The road from Cauro crosses the Col Torro, 1394 ft., 1½ m. Four miles, the col and bridge S. Alberto, 1710 ft. whence a road ramifies 7½ m. S. to S. Maria-Siché and Grossetto. On the right side of the road a waterfall descends from the crest of the Usciolo. Large oaks and chestnut trees with ilexes and pines are now seen. 7 m. here a short branch road leads to a maison forestière surrounded by large trees, at the foot of Mt. Mantelluccio, 5515 ft. A little farther a road ramifies 4½ m. by the wild and beautiful valley of the Else into the forest of Ponteniello, and where it ends a mule path commences to Frasseto, pop. 750, on the coach road between Ajaccio and the baths of Guitera. 7½ m. the Zipitoli bridge across the Else, a short way above its junction with the Prunelli. On the right side of the river is the Maison de Cantonniers of Zipitoli.

8 m. The Col Crichetto, 2380 ft., and nearly 3 m. farther the Col Menta, 2458 ft., from which the road descends to the Prunelli and continues by its banks to

[Headnote: DOMINICACCI.]

Bastelica, pop. 4000, inn, 2400 ft., consisting of a group of hamlets, none of which bears the name of Bastelica. Sampiero was born in the one called Dominicacci, between Stazzona and Costa, at the end of the 15th cent., and killed by the Ornanos in the defile of the Prunelli on the 17th January 1567. The house which stands on the site of the one he lived in bears an epitaph to his memory, placed by "William Wyse, Irish Roman Catholic, nephew of Napoleon the Great."

[Headnote: MT. RENOSO.]

Among the many pleasant excursions is the ascent of Mt. Renoso, 7733 ft., 5½ hrs. N.E.

In summer men go up every day with mules for frozen snow. There are lakes on the south and east sides of the mountain, and some fine velvety swards. Map, p. 27.

Five miles beyond Cauro, the Sartène road attains the summit of the Col St. Georges, 2500 ft., commanding a fine prospect of the surrounding country, and afterwards descends to the valley of Ornano, the native land of Vanina, traversed by the Taravo.

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTÈNE

{20}{33} APA, whence a Route Departamentale extends 18 m. N.E. to the baths of Guitera and Zicavo. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

AJACCIO TO ZICAVO AND THE BATHS OF GUITERA.

[Headnote: BATHS OF GUITERA.]

8¼ hrs. by coach and 39 m. from Ajaccio by the Apa mill, 1841 ft., then by the slopes of the Punta del Castello, 2674 ft., through a charming country, to S. Maria-Siché, 2 m. from Apa, inn where coach stops, pop. 800. An old lofty building here of granite, with the remains of towers blackened by age, was the birthplace of the unfortunate Vanina, strangled by Sampiero, p. 39. The ruins of the chateau he built for himself in 1554, after his house had been destroyed, are seen on a hill to the left of the road. Coaches for Ajaccio, Guitera, Zicavo, and Propriano. 4½ m. from Apa at Campo, pop. 390, the road describes a great circuit to get round the head of the defile of the torrent of Frasseto, an affluent of the Taravo. 1¼ m. farther is Frasseto, pop. 740. When about 2770 feet high there is, through an opening, a superb view extending to the sea by the valley of the Frasseto. 8 m. from Apa is the Col de Granace, 2713 ft., with a splendid view. Zecavo, 10 m., 2238 ft., pop. 510, on an affluent of the Taravo. Then rounding the buttresses of the Sposata, 3288 ft., enter the village of Corrano, 12 m., pop. 470, in a lovely situation. 14½ m. from Apa and 34½ from Ajaccio are the hot sulphurous springs of Guitera, with hotel, 1437 ft., on the right bank of the Taravo, an excellent trout stream. Coach to and from Ajaccio during the season, from May to September. Pleasantly situated among cork oaks and banks covered with the Osmunda fern. The road from the Baths of Guitera up to Zicavo, 3½ m., follows for about 1 m. the Taravo till its union with the torrent from Mt. Coscione, whence it climbs up through the gorge to

[Headnote: ZICAVO.--MT. INCUDINE.]

Zicavo, pop. 1500, hotel, 2385 ft., charmingly situated, overlooking the valley of the Taravo, 38 m. by coach from Ajaccio. From Zicavo the ascent is made of Monte Incudine, 7008 ft., in 6 hrs. Mules can be employed to within ½ hr. of summit. Although not difficult, guide and mule are advisable, if for nothing else than to assist in fording the streams. After having passed the chapel of S. Roch, ascend a steep mule path, right, among the largest and best formed chestnut trees in the island, then rounding Mt. Buchino, 3623 ft., among ilexes, and Mt. Occhiato, 5749 ft., covered with beech trees, ascend southwards by a wooded ravine between great rocks. Between 2 and 3 hrs. the Pastures of the plain of Coscione, with many shepherds' huts, are reached, whence Mt. Incudine is seen. After leaving this the path becomes very bad, over loose stones and across troublesome torrents. These are succeeded by an annoying thick coppice of alders, and then the Col de Cheralba, 6345 ft., is ascended, in about 5½ hrs. from starting. The mules are left here, and the ascent is made by the western flank, taking care to make the guide understand that the highest peak is wanted, and not the Rocher de l'Incudine. "The view is probably the most beautiful in Corsica--a vast panorama full of variety. Steep pine clad hills sink abruptly into the eastern sea; glens open southward on a rich glowing valley; the blue depths of the bays are fringed with an edging of white sand and green water. The great granite aiguilles of the forest of Bavella, a strange array of horns and pinnacles, run across the foreground; to the left the long fiord of Porto Vecchio stretches far into the land; while in the centre of the picture are spread out the broad Straits of Bonifacio, studded with pale isles and islets. On the left is Caprera, the home of the liberator of the Two Sicilies. [Headnote: NELSON.] The one beside it, Maddalena, is linked with even greater memories--Nelson and Napoleon. Under its lee, in a bay which Nelson christened 'Agincourt Sound,' the British fleet lay for months before the battle of the Nile, watching for the French squadron sheltered behind the guns of Toulon. Two silver candlesticks on the altar of the village church record Nelson's gratitude for the friendly services of the inhabitants. It was in attacking this same village that Napoleon, in 1793, first saw fire. For mountain views the Alpine clubman is spoilt, but for sea views, and they are not less beautiful, he must go far, perhaps as far as Greece, to find such another."--D. F. Freshfield, Alpine Club. See map on fly-leaf.

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTÈNE

{21}{32} GROSSETO, 1476 feet, pop. 600; 4½ hours by diligence from Ajaccio. A little beyond the inn is the church, sheltered by large ilex trees, which grow to a great height in this neighbourhood.

{30}{23} BICCHISANO, 350 feet, pop. 1800, where the passengers dine. The diligence then passes the villages of Petreto and Cassalabriva, pop. 300, and shortly afterwards reaches the summit of the Col Celaccia, 1910 feet, about 2½ m. E. from Sollacaro, pop. 800, where Boswell visited Paoli. Sollacaro is not on the highroad.

[Headnote: OLMETO.]

{39}{14} OLMETO, pop. 1650, hotel. On a hill, with an extensive view. In the neighbourhood, on Monte Buttareto, are the ruins of the castle of Arrigo della Rocca. No more beautiful sight than that of Olmeto can be pictured. Immediately below the town the ground dips steeply down, covered with corn or turf; or in terraces of vineyard, varied with large groups of fine olive trees stretching down to the shore. Above the village a vast growth of vegetation climbs the heights. Among huge masses of granite are tangles of every shrub the island produces, the wild olive or oleaster being one of the most elegant; while every part of the heights close to the town abounds with little picture subjects, with a clear blue sky for a background.

The road now descends to the coast, and after crossing the Baracci, near the hot sulphurous mineral baths of Baracci, arrives at

[Headnote: PROPRIANO.]

{44½}{8½} PROPRIANO, pop. 1000. H. France. Every Saturday a steamer arrives from Ajaccio, and returns on the Monday morning. Another steamer twice weekly between this and Ajaccio. Near the bridge over the Rizzanèse, are the two Celtic monuments called the Stazione del' Diavolo.

PROPRIANO TO SOLENZARA.

Two and a half miles beyond the bridge commences the Route Forestière, No. 4, leading to Solenzara, 42½ m. N.E. This road ascends by the Rizzanese to S. Lucia di Tallano, whence eastward to Levie, 1970 ft.; and thence Zonza, 2586 ft. The road afterwards ascends N.E. by a picturesque ravine to the Col Bavella, 3965 ft.; whence after descending to the Maison Cantonniere, 1476 ft., it crosses the Col Larone, 2013; whence it descends by a winding road partly by the banks of the Fiumicello and partly by the R. Solenzara to Solenzara (see p. 36).

[Map: Corsica, Central Region]

Shortly after crossing the Rizzanese the diligence commences the long ascent to Sartène, disclosing views of the great valley below and of the splendid snowy heights of the long range of mountains opposite, terminating in the lofty regions of the great Monte Incudine, 7008 ft.

[Headnote: SARTÈNE.]

miles from AJACCIO miles to SARTÈNE

{53} SARTÈNE, 1000 feet; pop. 6010; _Inns:_ Commerce: Univers. Coaches daily to and from Ajaccio, Bonifacio and Santa Lucia di Tallano. Old Sartène is a town of narrow streets approached by a fine bridge, whence the whole valley is seen down to the Gulf of Valinco. It still retains some towers and parts of the walls erected in the 16th century. The houses are built of rough, dark gray granite, with steep stone steps leading up to the main entrance, and odd Italian chimneys, some in the shape of pillars with curious capitals, others in the form of towers or obelisks. The houses bordering the Nouvello Traverse and the streets leading into the "Place" form the new town.

Sartène to Corté by Vivario,

up the centre of the island. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

This grand mountain road, No. 196 bis, extends from Sartène, 73 m. N. to the Ajaccio and Corté road, which it joins at the 60 kilometres-stone, on the Col Serra, ½ mile from Vivario. All the diligences between Ajaccio and Corté halt at the inn of Vivario (p. 8).

[Headnote: S. LUCIA DI TALLANO.]

After leaving Sartène the road crosses the Fiumicicoli and ascends the valley of the Rizzanese to Loreto, 12 m., and Cargiaca 15 m. N. from Sartène 1302 ft.; grand view. Near Loreto is S. Lucia di Tallano, 1270 ft., with a quarry of a beautiful amphibole, a variety of hornblende. The ground colour is grayish blue sprinkled with white and margined with black spots (see p. 37).

[Headnote: ZICAVO.]

From Cargiaca the road enters the valley of the Coscione and ascends through the ilex forest of Taca amidst towering mountains and vertical cliffs by the villages of Zerubia and Aullene, 2736 ft., pop. 1100; inn; 21 m. N. from Sartène. It now crosses the Coscione, 3492 ft., then the Col Vaccia, 3898 ft., and descends by the Col d'Alisandri, 3426 ft., to Zicavo, 2445 ft., with an inn, 17 m. from Aullene, 3½ m. E. from the baths of Guitera, 38 m. N. from Sartène and 37 m. S. from Vivario.

From the Bocca Tinzole a road ramifies N.W. to Olivese 1460 ft., pop. 700, in the valley of the Taravo, 7 m. from Guitera by a beautiful road.

From Zicavo the road crosses the Col San Francesco, 1969 ft., to Cozzano, 40 m., pop. 900, and enters the valley of the Taravo, which it ascends by the east bank between two great mountain chains, the culminating point of the western chain being Mt. Don Giovanni 6405 ft., and that of the eastern Pointe Capella 6706 ft.

Three and a quarter miles up the valley from Cozzano a wheel road leads 1½ m. E. to the Maison Forestière of St. Antoine, whence a mule path by the Col de Rapara, 5557 ft., extends to Isolaccio and the hot baths of Pietrapola, p. 8, by a picturesque road through a beautiful part of the forest.

Four and a half miles above Cozzano is the Col Scrivano, 2959 ft., whence a mule path leads across the valley to Palneca, pop. 1050, on the wooded slopes of Mt. Pietra Cinta, 4958 ft.

A little below the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Scrivano.

Nine and a half miles N. from Zicavo is the bridge Argentuccia, fronting a grand semi-circle of mountains covered with noble trees. This is the commencement of the real Verde forest.

Eleven and three quarter miles from Zicavo is the Maison de Cantonniers de Ghiraldino, 3936 ft., 49 m. N. from Sartène, 2 m. S. from the Col Verde and 5 m. S. from the House of Refuge of Marmano. A little beyond the house a wheel road, left, descends into one of the finest parts of the Verde forest.

[Headnote: COL VERDE.]

Thirteen and three quarter miles from Zicavo and 51 m. from Sartène is the Col Verde, 4290 ft., with, nearly a mile distant, the Maison de Cantonniers de Marmano. Below is the forest of Marmano, with its best trees cut down, and in the neighbourhood the sources of the rivers Taravo, 5678 ft., at the Col Tisina, of the Fium Orbo, 3783 ft. under a mountain a little to the N. of the Col Verde, and of the Prunelli, 4790 ft., among a group of high mountains to the W. The Vecchio rises from the springs on Mt. Oro.

[Headnote: REFUGE DE MARMANO.]

Seventeen miles from Zicavo and 54 m. from Sartène is the Refuge de Marmano, 3182 ft., beautifully situated. Here was formerly the summer station of the Casabianda penitentiary. The escaped criminals committed such outrages that the government at the repeated petitioning of the shepherds were obliged to withdraw it. Finally Casabianda was abandoned also, and the prisoners removed to the neighbourhood of Ajaccio, where they could be well looked after.

Food and lodging may be obtained at the Maison Forestière, or 1¼ m. farther at the Maison de Cantonniers de Canareccia, 2760 ft., in the rocky defile of the Fium Orbo. Between this and Ghisoni, 6 m., 3 bridges and 2 low Cols are crossed. At the second bridge, the Pont de Casso, 4½ m. from Ghisoni, are seen the great pinnacles or needles and lofty cliffs of Albuccia Point or Kyrie Eleison, 4935 ft.

From the Canaraccia the road winds its way northward along the flanks of mountains sloping down to the Orbo, which it leaves shortly before reaching

[Headnote: GHISONI.--COL SORBA.]

Ghisoni, pop. 1740, 2160 ft., 62 m. N. from Sartène, 12 m. S. from Vivario, 8 m. N. from the House of Refuge, and 24 m. N. from Zicavo. Four m. N. from Ghisoni the road crosses the Col Scozzolatojo, 3916 ft., and 2 m. farther the Col Sorba, 4310 ft., 6 m. S. from Vivario, see p. 8. The descent from the Col Sorba into Vivario is very striking. It is effected by excessively sharp zigzags through a noble pine forest. Between the branches tower the bold forms of Monte d'Oro, Monte Rotondo, and, in the distance, behind the uplands of Corté, the crags of Monte Traunato.

The best resting-places on this road are Zicavo, 39 m. S.E. from Ajaccio, from which it is approached by a diligence; and the pleasant village of Ghisoni, where there is a very fair inn. At Vivario there is the Hotel Voyageurs. Guides and carriages should be hired either at Sartène or Vivario, 20 frs. per day.

Ghisoni to Ghisonaccia.

18 m. S.E. Maps, pp. 1 and 27.

By the Forest road No. 5, cut for nearly 11 m. in the face of the steep cliffs which enclose the Orbo. As this road in all the dangerous parts is hardly 11 ft. wide, it is necessary to ascertain before starting in a vehicle, the position of the carts conveying the logs, and to arrange accordingly.

The road descends from Ghisoni to the Pont de Regolo, 2077 ft., where it crosses the Casapietrone, and then follows the course of the Fium Orbo, crosses the Ruello Bridge 1450 ft., and enters the Salto della Sposata 4½ m. from Ghisoni, where the river flows in a narrow bed between vertical precipices, some more than 1200 ft. high.

[Headnote: L'INZECCA.]

The road, chiselled out of these cliffs, passes under 3 great portals. From the third is seen, through the great cleft in the rock of Inzecca, the sea at Aleria.